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of one particular youtube movie, drunken young men who were teasing a Bison bull. When you encounter a Bison grazing on the meadows around Białowieża’s hamlets, it is wise not to approach them. Snorting, shaking the head and scraping the ground with its hooves are signals that the Bison is getting agitated. Old-growth forests, with their many dead and dying trees, present a threat during storms when branches or even entire trees may come crashing to the ground. Białowieża’s strict reserve is closed during storms, and we would advise strongly against an excursion into the rest of the forest complex during a storm. This leaves only two other potential problems which we discuss in further detail: the bugs and getting lost in the marshes.
Mosquitoes and other bugs
The most ominous annoyance is that of mosquitoes, midges and horseflies. As spring progresses the mosquitoes become more and more numerous in the wetlands. In late spring and summer, when they are joined by horseflies, an otherwise pleasant walk can turn into a true ordeal. The numbers of mosquitoes vary considerably depending on the amount of snow (and hence shelter) in the winter time. Summers following snowy winters are more ‘challenging’ than those following cold, snow-free winters. Mosquitoes are fussy creatures. They don’t like wind, drought and bright sunshine. Hence the worst places are damp forests such as those in Białowieża. Open marshes, like the fen mires or open water (when in a canoe) are usually mosquito-free. Using insect repellent (and use it frequently) helps, as does the ‘Polish deterrent’: gently chastising oneself with a leafy twig when walking around. Nevertheless, in the mosquito season (from mid-May to mid August) a certain attitude of stoic acceptance is needed to enjoy your stay here. The latter also goes for the horseflies which are less easily deterred. Embrace it as part of the ‘wilderness experience’!
Safety in the sedge marshes
Most trails in this book that cross the marshes are (largely) situated on embankments. In designated places however there are ‘trails’ that simply plunge into to mud (e.g. at Barwik and Kopytkowo – routes 9 and 11). Signposted with nothing more than, colourbarred poles you may try your luck in the marsh. Walking (wading may sometimes be a better description) can be great fun, but is not without danger. The peat layer along these trails has been damaged by the many tramping boots that have come this way. In such places it is quite possible to sink waist-deep into the peat. Another problem presents itself in summertime when the reed stalks reach so high that they obscure the tall poles that mark the trail (especially as your lower half has disappeared in the mud), which makes it easy to get lost in this marshy jungle.
crossbill guides • North-east Poland