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It’s time to reel in your life and reconnect with nature on a grand scale. Wilder on the Taylor, near Crested Butte, Colorado, is a 2,000-acre shared ranch with 26 homestead sites and exclusive access to nearly two miles of superb fly fishing on the banks of the Taylor River. Fishing, horseback riding, access to hunting—your gateway to the classic Colorado lifestyle. The only limit is your own imagination.

E a s i ly acce s s i b l e . S ur p r i s i ng ly s e clud e d. A l l your s. For more information on purchasing at Wilder, please call 970.641.4545 or visit us online at www.WilderColorado.com Located on Taylor River Rd.-742 at Jack’s Cabin Cutoff


If you’ve spent much time here, you know that Crested Butte is a unique and wonderful place. The brokers at Red Lady Realty have deep roots in the community, and the experience to assist you in finding the perfect home or property. They’re also eager to share their knowledge of the area, to help you learn the ins and outs of life in the Butte.

Doug Kroft

Jackie Ingham

Joe Garcia

Molly Eldridge

BROKER GRI/OWNER 209-0373

BROKER ASSOCIATE 349-5007

BROKER ASSOCIATE GRI BROKER ASSOCIATE RSPS 209-4034 209-4234

Glena Galloway BROKER ASSOCIATE 596-0139

Linda Pitt

BROKER ASSOCIATE 901-1047

Steve Meredith Shelley Garcia-White Maggie Dethloff BROKER ASSOCIATE 349-5007

Chris Gibson

BROKER ASSOCIATE 596-6633

BROKER ASSOCIATE 209-9900

Diane Aronovic BROKER ASSOCIATE 209-0405

BROKER ASSOCIATE 209-7880

Mollye Bell

BROKER ASSOCIATE 901-4251

Sam Lumb

BROKER ASSOCIATE 275-2448

Kathy Hooge OFFICE MANAGER 349-5007

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…”‡•–‡†„—––‡ ƒ‰ƒœ‹‡ Vol. XXXI, No. 2 Published semi-annually by Crested Butte Printing PUBLISHER

Steve Mabry EDITOR

Sandy Fails ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

M.J. Vosburg GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Jessy Moreland PRODUCTION

Christopher Hanna Keitha Kostyk WRITERS

Dawne Belloise Pat Pielsticker Bittle Sandra Cortner Erin English Sandy Fails Rachael Gardner Luke Mehall Molly Murfee Laura Puckett Shelley Read George Sibley PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dawne Belloise Pet Pielsticker Bittle Nathan Bilow Sandra Cortner Dusty Demerson Xavier Fané Alex Fenlon Paul Gallaher Kevin Krill J.C. Leacock Andy Richter Pete Sowar Tom Stillo PRINTING

David Zembower Chris Eshbaugh Ryan Law COVER PHOTO

J.C. Leacock E-MAIL editor@crestedbuttemagazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Crested Butte Printing P.O. Box 1030, Crested Butte, CO 81224 970-349-7511 • $8/year for two issues ADVERTISING 970-349-6211 E-mail: advertising@crestedbuttemagazine.com

NOW FIND US ONLINE: www.crestedbuttemagazine.com Copyright 2009, Crested Butte Printing. No reproduction of contents without authorization by Crested Butte Printing.

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As I write this, with my feet propped up on my living room couch, my 22-year-old son Chris is pedaling his well-laden bicycle somewhere near Ironwood, Michigan. Armed only with bikes, camping gear and maps, he and his buddy Eli are 2,300 miles into their cross-country ride from Washington to Maine. For me, this is a scary proposition, with no walls between them and the great wide world. They are vulnerable to anything man or nature might throw at them: tornados, ax murderers or grizzlies. And starry skies, free ice cream and random encounters with well-disguised sages. No protection against ugliness or splendor, hostility or compassion, strife or awe. True to my fears, the guys have had passing motorists pretend to shoot them. They’ve been pelted by hail and mobbed by mosquitoes. They’ve also had mind-boggling discussions with gang members, addicts and Winnebago philosophers. Above all, to a level that’s astounding to me, they’ve been fed, sheltered, prayed over and helped by strangers. (“It’s hard to be intimidated by guys in Lycra,” Chris noted, but even he is boggled by all this kindness.) Chris and Eli have chosen to pedal through this wall-less world. There they’ve met people who live without walls – orphans, outlaws and street people. There is danger, unevenness and unpredictability here – along with unexpected wisdom, courage, honesty and generosity. Their eyes and hearts are open, the world is responding in kind, and they are being changed. I feel myself being changed as well, here with my feet propped up on the living room couch. I read Chris’ daily

telegrams on Twitter, pore over his photos on Flickr and talk to him every few days on the phone. I sense the wonderment in his words, written and spoken. When I moved to Crested Butte I was just a few years older than my son is now, seeking some of what he seeks. I abandoned suburbia for this place on the edge between civilization and wilderness. I wanted to throw myself into a new world, ruled by nature, populated by free spirits, so removed from the beaten path that I had to forge my own way. I came ready to see, hear, experience and be changed, and I was. Now my life is more settled and predictable. I wake each morning to the same mountain vistas outside my windows, sometimes without noticing them. I tend to follow the same routines and see the same people. It’s easy for us to reinforce each other’s opinions until we think we have all the answers. Seldom is my world view challenged. I’m quite comfortable on this couch. I like looking at the artwork on my walls and inhaling the fresh-coffee smell that drifts in from the kitchen. I don’t envy my son his long pedalslogs against heavy headwinds or the bone-chilling mornings that slap him awake when he unzips his sleeping bag in some smalltown park. But I want to reap some of the benefits of his odyssey. I want to crack open my mind a little, to embrace the rough, uneven beauty of this world, to honor each person’s journey and what we have to share with each other. I want to see with fewer filters, preconceptions and defenses. I want to protect less and marvel more. I want to offer kindness to somebody else’s son or &5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(!


daughter making a personal pilgrimage. Jostled awake by my son’s mini-missives from the road, I want to remember the changes that Crested Butte inspired in me almost three decades ago. Here are two reminders to myself. 1. We are all fellow travelers. It’s easier to be kind to strangers (especially those in Lycra, apparently). We haven’t yet judged and categorized them as developer/hippie, Democrat/Republican, person who’s for/ against ski lifts on Snodgrass, etc. What if we could always see each other as fellow travelers? What if we could, around a metaphorical campfire, compare notes, swap stories and honor each other’s wisdoms (however well disguised)? Then we could examine and refine our respective viewpoints and gain insight from our exchanges. It’s a long road we share; we might as well enjoy the company. 2. The state of the world depends on the eyeglasses through which we view it. The glasses I habitually grab can paint the world as a Litany of Chores, a small, stuffy cubicle of a world crammed with things that must get done. My mother tended to see the world as a Minefield of Dangers. I have friends who live in a Battlefield, fraught with people and circumstances intent on keeping them from getting what they want. By contrast, right now Chris is bicycling through a Garden of Wonders: a first taste of huckleberry jam, a fiddle-playing brown-eyed girl, just-caught fish sizzling on the campfire, the boldly proclaimed “World’s Largest Purple Spoon,� a fawn eyeing them curiously from the edge of their campsite. In this reality, broken spokes, grinding climbs and horizontal rain are not proof of a hostile universe, just part of the grand adventure. My wish with this winter magazine is that Crested Butte might invite us to open our minds and don our Garden of Wonders glasses. That we might step outside the walls of our comfortable assumptions, petty grievances and rote reactions. That we might view each other as companion travelers worthy of kindness and respect despite our differences. That we might stop and be transfixed by beauty, like that moment when we crest a mountain pass and catch our breaths at the magnificence that spills open before us, before we re-shoulder our loads and slog on. I’ll leave the pedaling and camping to my son; I’m headed to the kitchen for a cup of that fragrant coffee. And I’ll opt to stand naked to the wonder of the world in a purely metaphorical sense, without removing my fuzzy houseslippers. Ah, now, with my coffee cup in hand and feet ensconced in woolly comfort, let the virtual pilgrimage begin. -Sandy Fails, editor

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KEEP IN TOUCH: Get updates and insights through the editor’s blog at www.crestedbuttemagazine.com.


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A Professional Custom Home, Remodel and Historic Renovation Company 1880’s Cabin Restoration | Maroon Avenue, Crested Butte

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Located at the ski base area, it features an ice skating rink, bungee trampolines, rock climbing tower and lift served tubing hill. With the new Adventure Ticket enjoy unlimited chairlift access and all Adventure Park activities.

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By Sandy Fails I read the book French Women Don’t Get Fat and yearned to believe. I mean... a lifestyle regimen that uses “slender” and “croissant” in the same sentence? C’est bon. French women, I learned, are forever svelte not only because they walk instead of hopping in a car every time they exit a building but also because they celebrate and savor food. Could this be the antidote to the mindless gluttony, guilt-induced dieting and doomed fitness fads that give Americans such a love-hate relationship with food and their own bodies? Could it be true that I didn’t have to give up chocolate, just relish it with more joie de vivre? I am now a believer, based on two prime pieces of evidence: Eliane Wissocq and the Crested Butte Nordic Center’s yurt brunches. Long-time local Eliane grew up in France, as evidenced by her accent and the fact that she can don a jaunty scarf without looking like she’s playing dress-up. Eliane does more than walk; she hikes, bikes and skis. But she’s a typical French woman in her passion for food and wine. Her eyes slide heavenward when she describes a delectable quiche she discovered at a cafe in Hotchkiss. When she and husband/fellow gourmand John-Marc Ventimiglia travel – to Italy, Mexico or Paonia – there’s always a subplot... the culinary treasure hunt. And wine... so many varietals, so little time. Yet Eliane remains slender as a preteen.

Last winter Eliane, along with Crested Butte Nordic Center director Keith Bauer, orchestrated the ski-in brunches held at the Nordic yurt. Had I thought about Eliane’s involvement, I would have had loftier expectations of the cuisine I’d find there. Instead, I signed up for the third brunch of the season as an excuse to ski to the yurt with my husband Michael; the grub would just be bonus. On that Sunday, we cross-country skied past half-frozen streams sparkling under bluebird skies, about a mile and a half of mostly mellow trails with a few little whoop-de-doos. Hardly a marathon, but enough to feel invigorated and awed by the beauty of the valley. At the yurt (a round cabin made of canvas walls on a wooden framework), we leaned our skis in the outdoor rack and walked in the door. Still glowing from our ski, we stripped off our jackets in the wood stove-heated yurt. I’d expected a glorified tent, but the yurt felt like a cozy cabin, with rug-adorned wooden floors, couches and upholstered chairs, a large wooden table and several smaller ones. Wonderful. Just serve me up some flapjacks and bitter cowboy coffee and I’d be happy. Ah, mais non. As my eyes adjusted from sunshine to muted cabin light, I realized that few cowboys would be able to pronounce all the dishes on our brunch menu, let alone rustle them up from cowcamp provisions.

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The theme for the day was crepes. Eliane presided over a propane-fueled antique ceramic stove, which Keith had discovered and purchased. (Keith and Eliane make a good team; he’s a non-French kind of guy who’s handy with a hammer but scarcely knows goose paté from PB&J. Eliane concocts the menu; Keith hauls the goods in by a sled pulled behind a snowmobile.) Michael and I shared two sweet and two savory crepes. He first requested a crepe with Swiss gruyere and ham; I chose artichoke hearts, marinated sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and goat cheese. There were even more choices for the sweet crepes: marmalades like ginger-orange, ”Hero” rose hips or ligonberries; chocolate (Nutella or dark) and fresh strawberries; baked fresh pears with saffron-marscapone or creme fraiche; pears with blue cheese; or any combination of the above. Ooh la la. While Eliane coaxed the handsome but pesky antique stove, Keith ladled hot milk from a camp pan to make cocoa, offered along with coffee, orange juice, milk and hot cider (which would be replaced by iced herbal infusion for the warmer spring-time brunches). For this labor-intensive crepes breakfast, Eliane had enlisted help from fellow Nordic enthusiast Berit MellgrenDeer, originally from Sweden. Berit’s Swedish accent, Eliane’s French one and the international cuisine enhanced the illusion that our 20-minute ski had landed us on a foreign continent. Crepes made the brunch menu only once last winter. But the ever-changing fare always included some type of entree such as zucchini soufflé, deviled eggs or roasted green chili and sour cream quiche. Side dishes might include roasted herbed potatoes or pasta salad with sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and fresh basil, plus asparagus or another vegetable with aioli. Add to that such delicacies as rabbit or elk paté, gourmet ham or dry sausage, Artisan or French triple-cream cheeses, and local favorites like homemade pumpkin seed granola, yogurt and fresh fruit. And, ah, the breads: rye seed skinny loaf, garlic loaf, French, cheddar/jalapeno, spelt with currants and walnuts, whole wheat with hazelnuts and dried fruit, parmesan-sun-dried tomato-basil focaccia. I can imagine Eliane gazing toward the heavens in anticipation. When we returned for another brunch later in the season, Michael and I feasted our eyes on a table of treats: curried potato salad, venison paté, fresh strawberries and yogurt, cinnamon rolls, baked apples and glaze, homemade bread and blackberry marmalade, lemon bread, asparagus and sour cream-shallot-garlic sauce, goat cheese with fig-orange marmalade, chocolate banana bread, sun-dried tomato/artichoke heart quiche, roasted garlic bread, Saint Albray and Cambozola cheeses. A vase of fresh flowers !&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(


Storytelling around the wood stove.

photo by Tom Stillo

contrasted with the snowy world outside. Looking over the spread, Eliane said in her inimitable accent, “This is how I eat. I’m interested in quality. I eat a little of many different things. For the brunch, I like to have some American favorites, but there’s a strong European influence – no bread that can sit on the shelf for six months. I want to make sure people can have some of their favorites but also something they wouldn’t have at home. I want it to be special.” Ever the culinary bloodhound, Eliane last winter ferreted out edible brunch wonders wherever she went: Whole Foods, the Paonia Bakery, the Coal Train in Hotchkiss. Many of her delights came from Cucina’s and other local sources like Izzy’s, Why Cook and Camp 4, along with baker-friends and local chefs; then Eliane added her own touches. From

two-plus decades as a server in Crested Butte’s fine eateries, Eliane knows food and the people who do it to perfection. When she envisioned smoked salmon for the grand-finale brunch, she consulted Soupcon chef Jason Vernon, who volunteered to smoke the fish for her. “Sometimes when I find something special, I can’t resist bringing it here for people to taste,” she said from her post at the antique stove. “Here, want to try a splash of kirsch in your cocoa?” For the winter 2009-2010 brunches, Eliane will coordinate with major business sponsor Maxwell’s Steakhouse, brainstorming with creative chef David Wooding. Maxwell’s will provide ingredients, prepare brunch specialties and provide dishware. “But there will still be room for Eliane’s special touches,” Keith said.

At the crepes brunch, about a dozen other people straggled in over the two-hour event, from Gray Hares (Crested Butte’s “mature” outdoorsy set) to a young couple visiting from the Midwest. Diners can be diverse, Eliane noted. Hard-core athletes might drop in for coffee and a sweet, then go ski a few laps before coming back to sample the main entrees. Locals have brought their elder parents, doing a mellow snowshoe traverse from the nearest parking lot (half a mile or so). Increasingly last winter, families discovered the brunches, with parents and older kids on skis and little ones pulled in sleds. By the last brunch of the season, 28 people milled happily about the yurt, including a passel of youngsters. A Dallas couple kicked back with their cocoa while

Rush-hour traffic outside the yurt.

photo by Tom Stillo

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their three kids built a snowman outside. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have to search to find things for everyone to do together, especially the little ones,â&#x20AC;? the mom said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is great fun, perfect for our family.â&#x20AC;? Fellow diners who had sampled ski-in yurt meals in other places commented that Crested Butteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s was â&#x20AC;&#x153;much more gourmet than weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve found anywhere else. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surprisingly unique.â&#x20AC;? Skiing into the cabin and gathering around the fire lends a feeling of wilderness camaraderie to the yurt brunch. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I love that part,â&#x20AC;? said Keith. When a group of girlfriends, including Glena Galloway and Laura Meredith, gathered for a celebration brunch, they lingered long after the feast had been served, the yurt cleaned up and the goods loaded back on the sled. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I left them still sitting there talking; I have no idea how long they stayed,â&#x20AC;? Keith said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exactly what I wanted to have happen.â&#x20AC;? So how do you serve a gourmet spread in a snowbound yurt? â&#x20AC;&#x153;We always have a plan B and sometimes a plan C and D,â&#x20AC;? Eliane said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tricky to present excellent food at the right temperature without all the fancy equipment.â&#x20AC;? The antique stove might be lovely to behold, but Eliane was less charmed until she unraveled its many idiosyncrasies. And Eliane and Keith long debated the best approach to coffee, especially since they never knew whether theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be serving a crew of sippers,

teetotallers or guzzlers. Because thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no plumbing (guests use a porta-potty behind the yurt for â&#x20AC;&#x153;thatâ&#x20AC;? kind of plumbing), all dishes must be transported in for serving and out for washing. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You have to remember everything; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no jumping in the car to go get the salad tongs,â&#x20AC;? Eliane said. Only once has Keith looked back from his snowmobile en route to the yurt to see the sled tipped on its side â&#x20AC;&#x153;and stuff scattered all over the Nordic trail.â&#x20AC;? He didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind rounding it all up again, nor does he mind heading out to start a 7 a.m. fire to warm the yurt for the brunch crowd. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I lived for years in a little cabin with no plumbing. I hauled water from a stream and used wood heat. It was one of the most enjoyable times of my life. The yurt is like that for me â&#x20AC;&#x201C; my little escape. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s such a contrast to the ski area, a simple, easyto-access retreat.â&#x20AC;? Keith pursued the idea of yurt dining in Crested Butte after seeing it done in other places. The yurt was donated to the Crested Butte Nordic Center, and volunteers erected it on the Magic Meadows land owned by the Crested Butte Land Trust. People can rent the yurt for private parties (like Geo Bullockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wine-and-cheese birthday party last year). Feedback on last winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brunches was universally positive. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make a ton of money from the yurt events, but they definitely added to the overall Nordic experience in Crested Butte,â&#x20AC;? Keith said.

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Eliane Wissocq, yurt gourmet.

photo by Tom Stillo

After trying weekly yurt brunches and monthly full-moon dessert skis in 2008-2009, the Nordic Center will focus its energy on fewer events for the 2009-2010 ski season: five Sunday brunches and four fine dinners. (See schedule.) “The yurt is on Land Trust property, so we want to grow slowly, to make sure this fits the conservation use of the land,” Keith said. “We’ll continue to refine it, to take baby steps, to make it a quality thing, not jump instantly to a full-blown restaurant.” The evening dinners will feature candlelit haute cuisine with some surprising touches. The meals will coincide with near-full moons, and diners can ski or snowshoe under the moonlight with a guide if they’d like. Back at our crepes brunch, happy digesters and rosy-cheeked newcomers gathered around the wood stove and the large central table. We swapped bites and talked about our kids, our lives, the glory of the day and, especially, the food. “What kind did you get?” “Man, this is so good.” “Eliane, what’s that subtle flavor...” Ah, it occurred to me, this is what the French have figured out: the joy of movement and the beauty of food. The shared meal as a celebration of life and companionship. After an invigorating ski, I’d just sampled a half-dozen wondrous tastes, but I hadn’t been tempted to shovel in the food... I wanted to savor each morsel. I wasn’t stuffed... I was sated. I wasn’t heavy of belly... I was light of being. This wasn’t a low-carb, low-fat or low G-index event. It was high-nurture, highpleasure, high-satisfaction. Even surrounded by the crackle of wood stove and Gore-Tex, I felt almost... Francaise. &5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(!


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By sun or moon The Crested Butte Nordic Center will host five Sunday brunches and four full-moon dinners at the yurt this winter. The yurt is also available for private events. To make advance reservations, contact the Nordic Center at Second and Whiterock in Crested Butte or phone 970-349-1707. SUNDAY, DEC. 20 Â&#x2122; Solstice Brunch at the yurt

SUNDAY, DEC. 27 Â&#x2122; Brunch at the yurt

THURSDAY, DEC. 31 Â&#x2122; New Years Full-Moon Yurt Dinner

Party, with two seatings, featuring heavy hors dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oeuvres SUNDAY, JAN. 17 Â&#x2122; Brunch at the yurt

SATURDAY, JAN. 30 Â&#x2122; Full-Moon Yurt Dinner Tour

SUNDAY, FEB. 14 Â&#x2122; Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brunch

SUNDAY, FEB. 28

Yd[h"ž0D6DBC$! 

Â&#x2122; Full-Moon Yurt Dinner Tour

SUNDAY, MARCH 14 Â&#x2122; Brunch at the yurt TUESDAY, MARCH 30 Â&#x2122; Full-Moon Yurt Dinner Tour

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Mini but mighty

Tom Bielefeld, recreating 1920s Crested Butte in miniature

;PU`JSL]LYKL[HPSZTHRL[OLT\ZL\T»ZTVKLS[YHPU KPZWSH`HJHW[P]H[PUNSP[[SL^VUKLY Story and photos by Sandra Cortner Occasionally while volunteering at the Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum, I encounter visitors wandering around, half engaged – until I tell them about the model train display in the next room. Then the eyes of the children and husbands light up. After hustling to pay their $3 entry, they find themselves in the miniature coal-mining town of Crested Butte, framed by a mural of Big Mine Hill, Gibson Ridge and Whetstone Mountain. In this tiny world, it’s autumn in the 1920s. A train track encircles replicas of 75 period buildings — including outhouses — picket fences, trees, gardens, wagons, little people and animals. Observers, like children nose-high to the glass enclosing the diorama table, insert a quarter into the coin-op, then watch spellbound during the minute that the train choos-choos around town. Before the museum opened on Elk Avenue in 2003, its board of directors and Susan Medville, then executive director, considered a scaled train exhibit. But second homeowner Robert White “lit the fire,” Medville said. “He was passionate about having an exhibit, and thanks to him we put aside space for it.” He also provided drawings and ideas from which a small group of locals carried the concept to reality.

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They decided to use the HOn3 gauge model railroad scale of the actual narrow gauge trains that ran in the Crested Butte area. After Mike Fahrlander constructed the 12- by 18-foot table in 2003 and the streets were blue lined, artist Susan Anderton began historical research for her acrylic mural of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Benchâ&#x20AC;? and the Big Mineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buildings. She shot photos from different angles in town and discovered old pictures and mine maps at the Town Hall. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gary Christopher even loaned me some historical photos from his extensive collection,â&#x20AC;? she said. Her layout in mind, she started by painting the sky with its impending storm, then Gibson Ridge and Whetstone Mountain with a dusting of snow. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was very loose at first,â&#x20AC;? she explained. She stood on the particleboard surface of the table until she came to the lower part of the mural; then she had to kneel to finish the detailed buildings in the foreground. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The guys were thrilled with the mural, saying, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;You set the standard,â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? noted Anderton. The â&#x20AC;&#x153;guysâ&#x20AC;? are Tom Bielefeld and Dave Watkins, the mini-townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s principal builders. Fascinated by model trains and by miniature scenes they remembered from their childhoods, they have spent countless unpaid hours during the past seven years constructing the diorama. Bielefeld, the more experienced of the two, uses photos and measurements and draws plans to HO scale (1:87 proportion) on his computer. They built 22 buildings from scratch, including the Old Town Hall, Depot and Water Tower, for which they found blueprints. Watkinsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; first scratch-built model was the Powerhouse. Except for Bielefeldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blue home at 218 Sopris, the houses are from kits they buy from the Walthers Model Railroad Catalogue. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more rewarding to build from scratch, with actual scale replicas, rather than slamming together a generic western town,â&#x20AC;? said Bielefeld. â&#x20AC;&#x153;And weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve learned so much about the history of this place.â&#x20AC;? Their tool chest includes an HO scale ruler, dental picks, Exacto knives, little needle files, pencils, L-squares, contact cement, Super Glue, tweezers, clamps and tiny brushes. After cutting sheets of basswood in different textures for walls, they use styrene plastic sheets for roofing, siding and custom windows. Other details come from the kits. They have become masters at modifying kit figures; Bielefeld pointed out a man inspecting his foot after stepping in horse droppings. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I had to cut off his leg at the knee and turn it around.â&#x20AC;? They paint the buildings in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colors to make them recognizable since there are no historic color photos for reference. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Because of the table size limitations, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve selectively compressed the town and moved around some of the streets,â&#x20AC;? explained Bielefeld. Not every house or building could !&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(


Limber backdrop artist Susan Anderton

be included. The streets portrayed are Belleview, Sopris, Maroon, and Elk from First to Fourth streets, skipping down to the Depot on Seventh. The builders have also taken creative license with placement—the engine house, for example—to satisfy the layout, explained Watkins. “We put in a tunnel, which was not originally here, because we wanted to give the illusion of the train going to Floresta.” Anderton’s smaller mural on the west wall heightens the illusion. She could only reach the space by taking out one glass panel in the front and painting with her left hand as far as she could reach. Then she switched to her right (dominant) hand, but had to paint upside down perched on a stool. A slice of 1920s Crested Butte life was chosen “because the mines and population were booming and more photos are available from that time,” explained Watkins. The guys showed me the little vignettes, most of which I’d never noticed before. I loved the baseball diamond and bleachers located where my old house sits on Sopris. The ebullient Watkins pointed to men carrying an elk rack into the Elkhead Bar, a piano being unloaded at Mattivi’s Saloon, and a farmers’ market by the Depot where passengers wait for the train. The train emits smoke made from poly fiber, “like in pillow stuffing,” said Bielefeld, smiling. Watkins showed me the 48-star flags flying from the Depot and post office. Looking closely, I could see ravens on the rooftops and a horseshoe or two nailed up over tiny doorways. “The last two years we’ve accomplished a lot because there were just two of us making decisions instead of a committee,” said Watkins. However, they are quick to credit others who helped with the project,

including Fahrlander, Bill Oberling, Matt Hudson, Dave McGuire, Marilyn Phillips, Michael (Igor) Klein, Gerald Smith and Molly Minneman. Funding increased the past two years as well, thanks to a generous grant from the Gunnison County Commissioners, said museum director Glo Cunningham. Much work remains, including the Forest Queen Hotel, Old Rock Schoolhouse, Union Congregational Church and Yelenick’s Western Hotel. The labor is meticulous, tiring and time-consuming. Both use binocular magnifying glasses to avoid eyestrain. “I’ve been working on Kochevar’s for a long time,” said Watkins, “but only in three-hour stretches.” Bielefeld spent about 175 hours on the Old Town Hall, 300 on the Depot. “Whenever I think it will take X amount of time, it always takes longer,” admitted Bielefeld, clearly a perfectionist. “Most of the details are in now so it makes the diorama look a lot more finished.” Of course, there is always maintenance. Said Watkins, “Sometimes Bryan (Turpyn, museum employee) has called us saying, ‘The train is down,’ meaning it’s not running or tipped over. I always joke back, ‘Was anyone hurt?’” A few years ago, someone phoned Bielefeld. “There’s a mouse running around in here and it derailed the engine.” So the guys hustled on over to fix it, because their reward is much more than monetary. It’s pride in a job well done and the rapt attention of a fellow train buff, watching the train chug along. Now that she’s learned about the diorama details, Sandra Cortner, author of Crested Butte Stories…Through My Lens, joins visitors at the display to point out the polka band in front of the Old Town Hall. &5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(!


92 years and counting Stephen Zinanti lived what we now call history. By Sandra Cortner The white-haired gentleman pointed with his cane to the model train diorama in the Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum. Turning to the young girl at his side, he said, “Those are the steps we walked up to the mine.” I was photographing the exhibit, but his words stopped me. It wasn’t often I met someone who’d lived here during the mining heyday, so I stayed to visit with Stephen Zinanti, 92. He moved away long before I began documenting the old-timers. Now he’d returned with his family, including Avery, his granddaughter. The pair watched the miniature train chug around the tiny buildings of 1920s Crested Butte. Stephen’s warm brown

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eyes watered a bit. “Where’s the Elk Mountain House now?” he wondered, pointing to the little historic replica. I told him the top stories suffered fire damage, and it was now Donita’s Mexican restaurant – but still with its pressed-tin ceiling. Exploring the museum, he told us about “Moon,” his uncle Angelo Chiodo, whose photograph (now hanging in this museum) I took in 1969. Moon and Stephen’s dad operated a still during Prohibition in the back shed of the Chiodo home on White Rock Avenue. It wasn’t much of a secret; the Gunnison constable (not a “sheriff ” back then) was one of their best customers. Stephen’s son, daughter-in-law and grandchildren followed him around, looking at the miners’ equipment and the mine-shaft diorama. Stephen pointed to his birth date on the historic timeline. I introduced them to Jo Sedmak Laird, museum docent and daughter of Rudy Sedmak (one of Stephen’s peers, now deceased). Jo and Stephen’s conversation flitted from the United Mine Workers Union to mutual friends and relatives, including his cousin June Krizmanich, now of Gunnison. They did some head scratching over how many stairs climbed from town to Big Mine. Jo searched my book, Crested Butte Stories: Through My Lens, in the museum bookstore and announced, “176.” Born March 31, 1917, in his family house on White Rock Avenue, Stephen was the oldest of nine children and attended the Old Rock Schoolhouse until age 10. During a miner’s strike in 1927, his family moved to Tioga, Colorado, so his dad could work in the mines there. They returned when Stephen was 13; he finished high school here. In 1939, he returned to Tioga to work in the Big 4 coal mine. I could scarcely imagine Stephen folding his six-foot-plus frame into dank narrow tunnels, three to four feet high, digging for coal. A soldier in World War II, Stephen now lives by himself in Denver, across the alley from his daughter. When the Zinantis left, Stephen hugged Jo and me and said in a gravelly voice, “This is the best day I’ve had!”


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Free-heeling life’s turns

After tragedy struck, heralded telemarker Max Mancini found healing partly by giving to others. By Shelley Read

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ife turns. In an instant, our lives can veer wildly from our expected paths to hurl us in new and unanticipated directions. No one knows this better than celebrated telemark skier and Crested Butte native Max Mancini. On a fateful Sunday afternoon in September of 2007, Max and his pregnant fiancé, Molly Jackson, were returning to Crested Butte from Denver after a routine doctor visit. Tragedy struck when their car crossed the center line and collided with two oncoming vehicles, instantly killing Molly and their unborn son, and leaving Max with a compressed skull fracture and four broken ribs. Max was one of three victims in the accident flown by helicopter to Denver’s St. Anthony’s Hospital, where he underwent extensive neurosurgery to remove blood clots from his brain and repair the shattered right side of his skull. Driven by the same determination and discipline that had made him one of the nation’s most talented and progressive free-heeled skiers — with numerous championships and over 20 films to his credit, including four seasons with Warren Miller — Max slowly recovered, both physically and mentally. As news of his accident spread through the professional skiing world, he received an outpouring of support. In November, he was finally able to return home to the warm embrace of the Crested Butte community. : photo by Alex Fenlon

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The people of Crested Butte rallied for me and my family in every possible way,â&#x20AC;? Max recalls. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s incredible to live in a town where I knew I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to explain what I had been through. After a lot of therapy, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not that I was afraid to talk about the accident, but it was nice not to have to, that people just knew, and they wanted to go out of their way to help.â&#x20AC;? Fueled by the love of his community, fans and family, Max continued to make progress. But, he says, it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t until later that winter that the real healing began. In late December he was finally well enough to click into a pair of skis. Taking to the slopes that first time may not have been the extreme skiing he was used to, but he found it thrilling to re-enter what he wistfully called â&#x20AC;&#x153;the one normal part of my life that was left to me.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;For the two months I spent in Denver, all I could do was walk slowly around the block,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But once I could ski again, I really felt everything shift. Even on green runs when I first started, the motion stimulated my brain so much. It helped me reconnect and process everything that had happened.â&#x20AC;? Skiing became his mental and physical therapy, enabling him to more clearly contemplate what he needed to do to fully heal. In the process, Max began considering ways in which skiing might benefit others as much as it was helping him. â&#x20AC;&#x153;After my accident, I really felt I needed to add a more philanthropic aspect to my life,â&#x20AC;?

he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I always knew my life was meant for something more than being an athlete. I just hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t figured out what it was.â&#x20AC;? One year after Maxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life took a tragic turn, he discovered his answer. Motivated to share with others the remarkable healing energy of skiing and to help children in memory of his unborn son, Max founded Life Turns (www.lifeturns.org). The non-profit organization offers week-long outdoor adventure camps to 9-17 year olds living with illness, special needs, foster care and a variety of other challenges. The name of the organization acknowledges both the seismic turn of Maxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life and the power of the camps to turn an ill or challenged childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life toward the positive. For Max, the main goal of Life Turns is to provide children facing difficulty the chance to make friends, have a break from hospitals and treatments, and â&#x20AC;&#x153;just let them be kids.â&#x20AC;? In conjunction with the Adaptive Sports Center, the first Life Turns camp hosted seven young Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hospital patients and their families in March of 2008. â&#x20AC;&#x153;To be honest, I was excited about how it all came together for the first camp, but I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sure what I was getting myself into,â&#x20AC;? reflects Max. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But then we picked the kids up to bring them to Crested Butte, and right from that moment I loved them. I knew Life Turns was offering them something special and really needed in their lives.â&#x20AC;?


Life Turns camp participants: “something happy to hang on to.”

He fondly remembers one young Life Turns participant who had endured 23 surgeries in her short life. “I took her down her first black run,” he says in wonderment. “To see that kind of excitement and joy is incredible. It’s impossible to explain. “We had an amazing first go of it,” Max says of the 2008 camp. “Several parents told us their kids had never been so excited. Their praise helped us see that we’ve created something very rare. At the end of the week, the kids didn’t want to leave.” Max hopes the experience will be “something happy the kids can hang on to and revisit in their minds whenever they are facing more illness or difficulties.” The camps take the children skiing and snowboarding and on winter adventures such as sledding, snowshoeing, igloo building and dog sledding, as well as providing team building games and group dinners in the evening. All of this is given to the families free of charge. “A lot of these families get stuck with so many hospital bills that they can’t afford a family vacation,” says Max. “Life Turns tries to allow the families to let go of their worries for a while and have fun. The parents are unbelievably grateful.” Life Turns would not be possible without constant fundraising and generous donations and help. Warren Miller Entertainment hosted screenings of Children of Winter to sold-out audiences in Crested Butte and Boulder last year to benefit the program. Molly’s parents, Sharon and Pete Jackson — whom Max

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: photo by Alex Fenlon

considers “a huge, huge inspiration” to him and his healing process — are board members and enthusiastic supporters. Life Turns has also been mentored by acclaimed professional kayaker Brad Ludden, founder of First Descents adventure camps for young cancer patients and the philanthropic website Athletes Giving. Max’s family, friends and the staff from the Adaptive Sports Center volunteer their time to the camps, and Crested Butte Mountain Resort and Denver’s Children’s Hospital also donate their services. “The support we’ve received to get us started has been incredible,” says Max. With two camps planned for March and April 2010, Max is eager to see Life Turns expand. He is cautious, however, not to outgrow the organization’s mission, to maintain a “close, personal feel” and accept only 10-15 children per camp. As plans are in the works for this season’s camps, Max is also bursting with plans for his own life and career. With the majority of his recovery now behind him, Max has returned to the ski film circuit and will be appearing in the upcoming Warren Miller release Dynasty. He is also co-founder of his own film company, Falling Forward Films, and continues to appear in television and print advertisements for Nature Valley Granola Bars. Aside from Life Turns, he is most keen about his other charitable endeavor — the recent release of his pro-model telemark ski, Rossignol’s “The System,” from which Max is donating all royalties to Denver’s Children’s Hospital. Rossignol has pledged to match Max’s donation, so approximately $100 from every sale of this first-ever freeheel pro-model ski will directly benefit children in need. “It’s always been a goal of mine to have a pro-model ski,” says Max, “but this one is particularly exciting because it’s benefiting such a great cause.” Life may turn, but Max Mancini reminds us that, no matter how tragic, the twists can be met with wisdom and determination. “My accident gave me the motivation to give back,” Max says. “Helping these kids is the biggest achievement not only of my ski career but of my life.” !&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(


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#608 Mountaineer Square - Mt. Crested Butte TOP-FLOOR PENTHOUSE RESIDENCE. Vaulted ceilings, furniture upgrades, lock-off bedroom. Ski-in / Ski-out $849,000. Call Doug at 970.349.6691.

157 Silver Sage Dr â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Silver Sage Located along the Slate River, this beautiful 4 BD home sits on a 0.89-acre site just a few minutes from town. Fishing rights on the Slate River. Price is $1,780,000 Call Joel or Charlie of the Mtn OfďŹ ce at 970.349.6692.

4 Black Diamond â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Summit SKIERS DREAM! This handcrafted beautiful all new 4bed/4.5 bath BLACK DIAMOND RETREAT is the most affordable ski-in, ski-out single family home on Mt Crested Butte. Amazing Value! $2,945,000. Call Joan at 970.209.6897. GreenStoneHoldingsLLC.com

27 Treasury â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mt. Crested Butte Beautiful mountain home located near the base area, and within walking distance of the ski lifts. Quality home with brand new kitchen, convenient location, tremendous views and a great value. $875,000. Call Bill at 970.209.5799. CB-RealEstate.com

63 Pristine Point â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mt. Crested Butte This 4 BD / 4 BA mountain getaway is just minutes from skiing as well as shopping and amenities of historic Crested Butte. $$1,795,000. Call Karen at 970.209.2668. CBProperty.com

716 S Avion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Buckhorn Ranch Spectacular, level home site located in a quiet cul-de-sac within a community featuring a private runway located just a short drive to town and the ski resort. $135,000. Call Darci at 970.596.4958. RealEstateinCB.com

20 Ruby Dr â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mt. Crested Butte Beautiful 5 BD / 3.5 BA home with apartment on a quiet street in Mt. Crested Butte. Steam shower. Granite countertops. Partially heated driveway. $999,000. Call Dalynn at 970.596.3397. BuyinCB.com

Site 7 McCormick Ranch â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Crested Butte Best views in the valley from this 35+ acre home site located steps away from downtown Crested Butte. Enjoy exclusive ďŹ shing rights on Slate River that runs through the property. $2,650,000. Call Meg at 970.209.1210.

215 Skyland Lodge â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Skyland This gorgeous condo has been completely renovated. Highend ďŹ nishes throughout. Fully furnished with a luxurious feel. Flexible owner carry options - call for details. Call Erin at 970.901.1440. RealEstate-CrestedButte.com

704 Whiterock â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Crested Butte Wow! One of the coolest homes in town. 5 BD / 5.5 BA, 3975 s.f. Formerly the Claim Jumper B&B, this home has undergone a total remodel. Unbeatable views and location. $2,400,000. Call Doug at 970.275.2355. CBProperty.com

2 Aspen Hill â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Treasury Hill Nestled in the aspens this 3260 s.f. home with many luxury features offers a walking town lifestyle. Zoning here allows additional s.f. $2,350,000. Call Joan at 970.209.6897. CBProperty.com

#11 Evergreen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mt. Crested Butte Excellent top ďŹ&#x201A;oor location. Extensive renovations including new kitchen cabinets, granite countertops, stainless appliances, new bathroom ďŹ nishes, gas ďŹ replace and tile ďŹ&#x201A;oor. Easy walking distance to base area lifts. $325,000. Call Joel or Charlie of the Mtn OfďŹ ce at 970.349.6692.

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Downtown Crested Butte 970.349.6691 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Slopeside in Mt. Crested Butte 970.349.6692 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CBProperty.com


© 2009. An independently owned and operated member of Prudential Real Estate Affiliates, Inc. “The Rock” is a registered service mark of the Prudential Insurance Company of America. Equal Housing Opportunity. If your property is currently listed with a real estate broker, please disregard. Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed.

Inspired Mountain Living Inspired Mountain Living

#215 Lodge at Mountaineer Square – Mt. Crested Butte Premier slopeside 1 bed/2 bath condo in Mountaineer Square. Elegant furnishings, underground parking, indoor/outdoor pool, and more. 2 BD / 3 BA, 1393 s.f. Priced to sell. $495,000 Call Karen at 970.275.2355

#L4 Outrun – Mt. Crested Butte Great value for this spacious 3 BD top-floor residence, offering expansive views and vaulted ceilings. Extensive interior upgrades. Hot tub / sauna, tennis courts, on bus loop. $350,0000. Call Darci at 970.596.4958. RealEstateinCB.com

16 Red Lady Way – Mt. Crested Butte Realize your dreams of ski-town living. This 5,296 s.f. mountain home offers 5 bedrooms, 6 full baths and 1 powder room, indoor lap pool, heated driveway and walking distance to ski trail. $1,195,000. Call Joel or Charlie of the Mtn Office at 970.349.6692

Homesite S20 – Skyland Large initial filing homesite with incredible views, 3.64 acres bordering USN Forest and the golf course. The price reflects all engineering and plans for a gorgeous custom. Motivated Seller! New Price: $1,150,000. Call Meg at 970.209.1210.

12 Anthracite – Mt. Crested Butte One of the finest homes in Mt. Crested Butte. Gorgeous, brand new 6190 s.f. timber frame home. 5 BD / 4.5 BA with many amenities. 2 master suites. $2,599,000. Call Doug at 970.275.2355. CBProperty.com

#3 Silver Ridge – Mt. Crested Butte Enjoy direct ski-in / ski-out access from this stunning luxury residence on the mountain featuring 3 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, bonus room and 2-car garage. Call Joel or Charlie of the Mtn Office at 970.349.6692.

36 Birdie Way – Crested Butte Incredible location at the 6th green at Skyland in this 3 BD free-standing townhome. Extensive upgrades and a full furniture package. Perfect opportunity to purchase your mountain getaway. $875,000. Call Dalynn at 970.596.3397. BuyinCB.com

Home Sites at Larkspur Crested Butte’s newest subdivision located less than two miles from downtown. Surrounded by majestic views of Whetstone, Mt. Crested Butte and Paradise Divide. Priced from $41,940. Call Meg at 970.209.1210.

#27A Villas – Mt. Crested Butte Brand new, spacious 4BD / 4.5 BA townhome. Superior construction and thoughtful design. Great views and just a short, easy 5 minute walk to the ski lifts. $875,000. Call Doug at 970.275.2355.

Prospect – Mt. Crested Butte Located on sunny slopes, these home sites offer the best ski-in/ski-out location and views in the area. We have the choice sites available, Prospect is the crown jewel of mountain living. Call Joel or Charlie of the Mtn Office at 970.349.6692.

85 Alpine Court – Skyland River Neighborhood Enjoy fantastic unobstructed views of Paradise Divide from this 3 BD / 2.5 BA home on the Slate River. Enjoy fishing rights out your back door. $695,000. Call Meg at 970.209.1210.

2 Silver Lane – Mt. Crested Butte Great corner location in Gold Link Subdivision. This 5 BD home is just a short walk to skiing. Two living areas, two wet bars for entertaining, fireplace, 2-car garage and views! $1,595,000. Call Joel or Charlie of the Mtn Office at 970.349.6692.

&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(! Downtown Crested Butte 970.349.6691 – Slopeside in Mt. Crested Butte 970.349.6692 – CBProperty.com


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Why it’s white

and other mysteries of snow

By George Sibley Snow. If you’re reading this in Crested Butte in the winter, you’re probably happily surrounded by it. My purpose here is a deeper look at the white stuff – something to think about as you’re riding up the ski lift looking at it, or taking one of those mandatory 20-second breathing breaks after you’ve done a faceplant in it, or brushing it off your car or sidewalk downtown. We sometimes excoriate science for taking all the mystery out of life, but really, the more you learn about snow, the more fascinating it gets.

: photo by Kevin Krill

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Snow is not just frozen water. Water vapor – water in its gaseous form – accumulated in clouds high above the earth, at low atmospheric pressures, can get as cold as 40 below zero without turning to ice. But when molecules of that super-cooled water vapor bump into tiny floating particles of dust or anything else light enough to float in air, they explode like popcorn, from water vapor to ice clinging to that particle, and the resulting ice crystals begin their journey from cloud to ski slope. As they drift downward, these molecular crystals bump into and latch onto other crystals, and so become snowflakes. The kind and shape of snowflake depends on the temperatures and humidities they encounter on their descent to the ground. When the temperature they form at and fall through is warmer than 27 degrees F, the snowflakes are flat and hexagonal; between 23 and 27 degrees, needle-shaped; 18 to 23 degrees, hollow prismatic columns; and below 18 degrees, columnar, hexagonal or fernlike flakes. The higher the humidity, the larger the flakes become as they fall and join with others. The particles seem to be as important as the water vapor for snowflakes to form, which is why most ski resorts, including Crested Butte, now invest in cloud-seeding – pumping particulate material (silver iodide or propane)

small and light enough to float up through the atmosphere into cloud formations. Skeptics see it as a form of praying – like Buddhist prayer-wheels cranking prayers into the sky – and observe that no one has ever proven this actually works. But those with millions of dollars invested in snow-based recreations continue to pump their particulate prayers into the sky, noting that no one has proven that it doesn’t work. Watching the snow drift down, we see it as white, but when we catch a flake on our hand and it melts, the white disappears into transparent water. Why is snow white? That’s because snowflakes are more air than ice, and the translucent ice crystals joined in snowflakes have many reflecting surfaces. Light rays “enter” a snowflake’s air spaces and bounce around and eventually get reflected back out of the snowflake. None of the photons gets absorbed in that bouncing around, so the light that emerges still has the whole visible spectrum, which registers on our eyes as white. Every so often you’ll look at a snowfield and see a quick spot-glint of red or some other color; a light wave has just banged into a snowflake’s core particle, which absorbed all the light energy except what reflected back as a colored sparkle to your lucky eyes. The fact that snow is more air than ice

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is evident to anyone who has ever packed a and nasty layer that crumbles under your skis snowball or watched the level of a snowpack if you are trying to ski off a packed area, and drop in the days following a storm. The also crumbles under the weight of new snow, points of the snowflakes begin to break off precipitating avalanches. from the weight of other snowflakes on top As the winter goes on and the snow piles of them; the crystals crowd in on each other; up, it continues to pack down, and that light the air gets squeezed out; and the snow grows fluffy stuff becomes, on a hillside, a slumping denser through time. Anyone who has skied weight that snaps fence wires and bends trees. in powder (and everyone should) knows how, If more snow comes over the winter than during the storm itself, the snow is so light melts over the summer, the new snow coming that your skis are actually almost down at the next winter compresses the old stuff to ice; the old pre-storm when that happens snowpack surface. It over millennia, While it may look from the ski lift glaciers form that are is only after the snow has had a chance to like the snowpack is just lying there, capable of grinding settle a little that you great cirques out of it is actually a very dynamic get that incredible mountain rock, like phenomenon in constant interaction the Red Lady Bowl slo-mo sense of floating down into above Crested Butte – with its environment. the new snow and the debris from which back up for your turn, then the float down was pushed by glacial ice to form the rise just again.... It’s as close as you’ll get to skiing on a south and east of town. cloud, maybe as close as we get to heaven on There are other interesting interactions earth. between the snow and the environment into Once it’s down on the ground, the which it falls. There’s the sun, for one big snow doesn’t stop changing. Snow is a great thing. Most of our heat on earth comes from insulator, and despite the cold air above the short-wave radiation from the sun slamming snowpack, the ground underneath warms up. into the earth and being absorbed by things The earth’s heat percolating up into the snow that reflect back to us as green things, brown causes the crystals to morph into larger, more things, et cetera. The transformed solar fragile crystals called “depth hoar” – a weak energy gets converted into long-wave infrared

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: photo by Dusty Demerson

radiation â&#x20AC;&#x201D; heat, some of which gets caught in the atmosphere, the greenhouse effect that makes the planet livable for water-based life (us). But youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve already heard how the snow, with its labyrinthine microstructure of air and ice crystals, distracts and diverts the light from the sun, eventually reflecting it back, still as white light, and absorbing almost nothing as solar heat. This is snowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;albedoâ&#x20AC;? effect, and you can probably see how, when glaciers form, that albedo enables them to grow as more of the planet, in either high altitudes or high latitudes, is reflecting light rather than absorbing its energy as heat. That is desirable; we want the snowpack to protect itself that way until the ambient air temperature warms up enough in the spring to melt the snow relatively quickly. Another elemental force that works on the snowpack is the wind, impacting it in two !&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(

ways. First, the wind moves exposed snow around (as you no doubt know if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been out on the slopes on a windy day). But after the wind has moved snow around, there is less snow; the wind breaks up snow particles and a certain amount of the blown snow gets transformed from ice directly back to water vapor, a process called sublimation, which bypasses the liquid phase of water. This happens whether the wind is warm (a â&#x20AC;&#x153;chinookâ&#x20AC;?) or cold. The snowpackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only protection against wind is the hard crust that forms in windy places, a surface that slows but doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop the windâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s erosive â&#x20AC;&#x153;water-suckingâ&#x20AC;? action. The sun also causes sublimation when snow falls on a forested area. Some of the snow gets caught on branches; then when the sun comes out, the dark branches convert solar energy to heat, which warms the snow


from below enough to cause sublimation even when the temperature is below freezing. Studies indicate that removing the forest cover from a mountainside can significantly increase the water yield from a winter’s snow by diminishing that sublimation – unless the clearing process exposes the snowpack to wind, which leads to wind sublimation. Today a lot of forest cover is being stripped from mountains – by bark beetles, an unfolding disaster in the Southern Rockies that has fortunately not (yet – knock on wood) hit the Upper Gunnison valley. But whether the silver lining on that cloud is an increased water runoff depends on the wind, which has been increasing in recent years and bringing another big impact on snowpack. As the wind moves over the deserts west of the mountains, it picks up dust, and between the impacts of a drought early this 21st century and human activities in the desert, from grazing to ATVs, there is ever more dust to pick up. This mostly-red dust gets carried into the mountains and deposited on the snow. Instead of reflecting sunlight, the dust absorbs it with enough heat to cause the snow to start melting even when winter temperatures prevail. People in Crested Butte last April experienced one of the biggest dust-on-snow events in recorded history. On April 3, an afternoon storm came in on reddish-brown clouds, and several inches of red snow fell. People out skiing had the unnerving experience of looking back to see their tracks white against pink snow. When it melted – rather quickly – everything was really dirty. This “red snow” phenomenon has become frequent enough that it is being studied at the Center for Snow and Avalanche Studies in Silverton, Colorado, with one study site up in our own Taylor Park. Last winter, the researchers recorded 12 “duston-snow” events, twice more than had been measured any year before. The consequence was a snowmelt and runoff of water that peaked in mid-May, three weeks earlier than the long-term norm. This does not necessarily hurt the water supply from the mountains (although it increases the amount of silt washing into, and ultimately filling, reservoirs), but it can make for an abbreviated ski season, with increasingly lousy skiing as the melt accelerates with more of the dust concentrating on the surface. So while it may look, from the ski lift, like the snowpack is just lying there, providing you a recreational experience, it is actually a very dynamic phenomenon in constant interaction with its environment, changing the earth beneath it, and being changed by the earth, sun and moving air. Enjoy it more, knowing how lucky we are to have it – and not too much of it either.

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B U I L D YO U R D R E A M H O M E BRING ALL OFFERS!

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Prospect, Lot C-6 • $695,000

Best lot in phase 1 that is ski-in/ski-out and on the fence line. $50,000 credit for you to design your home with Sunlit Architecture. Sellers will not be undersold! Bring all offers! Sellers will pay first year taxes. Trades, financing, or joint ventures available.

Ruby Road, Lot 31 • $299,000

HIDEAWAY ON THE RIVER

Lapis Lane, Lot 4 • $585,000

PRIVATE FISHING RIGHTS

This premier Mt. Crested Butte ski-in lot is the perfect alpine setting for your mountain retreat. Numerous mature pine and aspen trees. Financing available with competitive interest rate- no closing costs!

Located in the coveted Gold Link neighborhood on a private cul-de-sac this .34 acre lot has easy ski-in/ski-out access! Enjoy mountain views! There is no HOA, therefore no HOA fees. Owner financing possible.

127 County Road 11 • $317,000

Secluded Gunnison River frontage within a short bike ride to downtown Gunnison. Private fishing rights included! Newly converted porch makes a great bonus room with a amazing view of the Gunnison River.

This home was originally built in 1883 and is in the final stages of a complete restoration. Featuring 3 bedrooms, 2 baths and a spacious kitchen. Great opportunity to own a unique piece of Gunnison history.

LARGE FENCED CORNER LOT

18 Bambi, Gunnison • $224,500 Newer, sunny 3 bedroom, 2 bath town home with a super sized garage. Best priced unit in the neighborhood. Features a large fenced corner lot and open floor plan. First floor master bedroom and buyer incentives.

This 3 bedroom, 2.5 bath spacious town home with garage is offered for less than $174 per sq. ft. Recent remodel has opened the kitchen to capture the amazing views! Solar exposure make this home super efficient.

300 Bellview Unit 6 • $199,000

Let our team help you

Charming cabin tucked away on its own little hideaway on the river. Unique opportunity with so many possibilities. Just under three miles to downtown Gunnison.

210 N. 12th Street • $399,000

HISTORIC HOME

189 Shavano • $345,000

Great 1 bedroom, 1 bath 594 sq. ft. unit in town. Short bike ride to shopping, restaurants and the ski shuttle stop! Great views of Red Lady from your living room!

129 County Road 11 • $239,500

Craftsman style home built with great care and love. This 3 bedroom, 2.5 bath has a large, warm attached 2 car garage and hand crafted features throughout. Just a short walk to fishing on the Gunnison River.

CRESTED BUTTE TOWNHOMES

IN TOWN LIVING

River front subdivision with private fishing rights on the Gunnison River. Lot 12 has a well and offers unobstructed river and valley views. You will enjoy the convenience to Gunnison.

AFFORDABLE GUNNISON LIVING

341 Blackstock Dr. • $99,000 This oversized HOME OR DUPLEX site features much desired green space and a seasonal stream. Immense southern exposure offers great solar opportunities.

SUPER SOLAR EFFICIENT

Rainbow Acres • $125,000

114 Diamond Lane • $310,000

FISHING ACCESS T RAC ONT C DER UN

Prospect, Lot C-3 • $495,000

Seller will pay first year of taxes while you build on this 1.19 acre home site. Forever protected views of the Whiterock Mountain Range. Can build up to 5,000 sq. ft. Will trade boat, plan or property. GREEN SPACE WITH STREAM

FISHERMAN’S’ DREAM

E XC LU S I V E C L I E N T S E RV I C E S Premier Mountain Properties’ office located at 318 Elk Avenue, Suite 15 in historic downtown Crested Butte provides the following services to clients: • Wireless Hotspot • Phone Services • Conference Facilities • Printing, Copying and Faxing • Federal Express and UPS Delivery All information deemed reliable but not guaranteed.

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ROBERT TRENT JONES JR. GOLF DAN MURPHY DESIGN

TBD Country Club Drive $ 2,287,500

4,500+ sq. ft. golfer’s dream home located on a .73 acre lot. Five bedrooms, extra living & entertaining space and two car garage. Gorgeous mountain views! ROOM TO GROW

83 Alpine Court $ 580,000

Beautiful 3 bedroom, 3.5 bath hand-crafted home features wood floors, granite, custom wrought-iron railings, and tile. Affordable opportunity! A must see! OVERLOOKING GOLF COURSE

Skyland Lodge Unit 402 • $109,000

Newly Remodeled Kitchen! Enjoy spectacular views of Whetstone from your south facing balcony. Just across the street from the golf course club house! COMMANDING VIEWS!

Skyland Lodge Unit 404 • $99,000

Most affordable unit in The Skyland Lodge! Next to unit 402. Purchase both units (402 and 404) for only $186,500 and convert into a 1,100 sq. ft. penthouse! HAS A LOFT

Skyland Lodge Penthouse Unit 401 • $100,000

The unit features a loft, ample morning sun and views of Mt. Crested Butte. Enjoy the neighborhood trails that lead into the National Forest.

F LY I N T O , F I S H A N D S K I ! LARGE LOT ON RUNWAY

Aviation Club, Lot 67 $ 397,000

Fly to Crested Butte and enjoy your mountain home! Rare opportunity to purchase a spectacular 1.43 acre runway home and hangar site. Panoramic mountain views. IMMENSE SOUTHERN EXPOSURE

South Avion, Lot M3-52 $ 175,000

The best lot in Brookside, offering biggest views and immense Southern exposure! Located just minutes from Crested Butte and skiing! • Other lots starting at $115,000 BORDERS OPEN SPACE

Bridle Spur, Lot M3-31 $ 155,000

This home site is ready for you to build now! All taps are paid, no extra cost to you! Just a few miles south of Historic Downtown Crested Butte. • M2-26 single family lot $130,000

W WW .

M CO . S E MIE RTI E R-MOU P O NTAIN-PR

PRE

E X Q U I S I T E M O U N TA I N L I V I N G 20 Glacier Lily • $1,125,000

This 3,616 sq. ft. Post & Beam features an open floor plan and magnificent protected views. Oversized 2 bay attached garage includes a apartment. Situated on oversized 1.58 acre lot and borders 3 acres of open space.

720 S. Avion Drive • $1,249,000

Latest creation by Hillside Custom Homes maximizes the commanding 360 degree views. This 4 bedroom, 3,000+ sq. ft. home has been designed with rustic elegance.

550 L. Highlands Rd. • $1,248,000

Perfect retreat nestled in the aspens on 15+ acres with well and water rights. Spectacular views of mountain sunsets. Features granite slabs, stone tile, vaulted ceilings, large loft, expansive decks and outdoor hot tub.

93 Meridian Lake Drive Washington Gulch • $597,000

360˚ MOUNTAIN VIEWS

ON FENCE LINE

MAJESTIC MOUNTAIN RETREAT

ENJOY THE SERENITY

3 bedroom, 2 bathroom with garage is on a .49 acre lot bordering open space. Protected views, tennis courts and fishing rights too!

17 Anthracite • $700,000

RENOVATIONS UNDERWAY!

Savor majestic mountain views from this home on .85 acre. Landscaping, interior and exterior renovations have begun. This home is being completely gutted and adding garage.

COMMERCIAL PROPERT Y West Elk Center

COMMERCIAL CRESTED BUTTE

Unit 102 - 428 sq. ft. - $199,000 Unit 103 - 357 sq. ft. - $166,000 Commercial space with great access, good traffic count, visibility and parking. Spacious common area and restrooms.

110 S. 12th Street • $249,500

COMMERCIAL/RESIDENTIAL

This Gunnison property is 11,500 sq. ft. with 3 buildings and 2 sheds. Building 1 is a residential home/commercial 1,375 sq. ft. building. Building 2 is a 300 sq. ft. retail space. Building 3 is a detached 322 sq. ft. garage. &5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(!


: photo by Xavier Fane

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Maggie Dethloff BROKER ASSOCIATE

For all MLS listings and the most current

(970)349-5007 office (970)209-7880 cell maggie@redladyrealty.com

information visit

CrestedButteNow.com

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Crested Butte â&#x20AC;˘ 503 Sixth Street â&#x20AC;˘ 970-349-1000 Mt. Crested Butte â&#x20AC;˘ 10 Crested Butte Way â&#x20AC;˘ 970-349-0465 Gunnison â&#x20AC;˘ 1100 North Main â&#x20AC;˘ 970-641-9000

ATMs at our locations

www.cobnks.com Š2008 Community Bankshares, Inc.

OFFERING EXCLUSIVE RESIDENTIAL REAL ESTATE AND SLOPESIDE LODGING IN MT. CRESTED BUTTE

WILDHORSE IS AN INTIMATE enclave of single-family ski homes beautifully situated on a hilltop that overlooks the spectacular Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness areas. photos by James Ray Spahn & Bob Brazell

WWW.WILDHORSEATPROSPECT.COM

FINELY APPOINTED IN spacious studio, two, three and four bedroom residences. WestWall Lodge, casual opulence located at the base of the WestWall chair lift, offering extraordinary ski-in, ski-out amenities. WWW.WESTWALLLODGE.COM

CALL 1.888.349.1349 FOR REAL ESTATE OPPORTUNITIES CALL 1.888.349.1280 FOR RESERVATION AND LODGING INFORMATION !&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(


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327 Elk Ave., PO Box 2380, Crested Butte, CO 81224 gowestmountainmel@yahoo.com awearts.org/melharper

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Jeff Rogers and his dog Caesar; inset photo from his early Army days.

: photo by Nathan Bilow

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: photo by Pat Pielsticker Bittle

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'DWDLQ DEVHQWLD RMBLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s remote weather stations will give researchers across the world new understanding about our high-altitude ecosystems.

: photo by David Inouye

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Luke Mehall does his research at Westernâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s HAPLab.

: photo by Tracey Koehler

7UDLQLQJ ´VPDUWHU QRWKDUGHUµ Olympians, couch potatoes and cancer patients find insight into their bodies through Western Stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s High Altitude Performance Lab.

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'ULYHDVQRZFDW AND MOVE MOUNTAINS IN A DAY.

Presented by:

Experience the thrill of operating an 18,000 pound snowcat. Learn to move mountains of snow like a pro under the instruction *ODMVEFTTIVUUMF UPTJUF NJOVUFTPG JOTUSVDUJPO BOEIPVSPGESJWFUJNF *OEJWJEVBMTBOEHSPVQTXFMDPNF

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Large Selection of Beer, Wine & Spirits Domestic and Imported Across from the Clark's Grocery bus stop.

Open Monday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

349-5709

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Story and photos by Dawne Belloise

2

n a back alley, wheels are turning, metal on metal, rollers swishing, hand-operated levers and cranks circumnavigating in their tracks. Narrow stacked drawers secret away a bouquet of finely cut metal letters. Rectangles and squares bearing raised alphabets and numerals create patterns on stone. Breathing in the smell of ink, I feel like Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve entered some vastly different, older world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a marriage of machine and art. This is the world of letterpress printing and Eidolon Press, found not in a time long gone but in Crested Butte today. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is the original way that things were printed. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s called movable type,â&#x20AC;? says printer and bookbinder Cyndi Lang Ingalls, creator of Eidolon Press in the back of 414 Elk Avenue. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gutenberg developed it in Europe in the 1550s, and literacy for the West soon followed.â&#x20AC;? Everything in that era was printed by letterpress: newspapers, books, pamphlets, cards. The Koreans, followed by the Chinese, had developed similar types of relief printing as early as the second century A.D. Texts were mostly printed from carved wood blocks. Letterpress sped up the process and made printed materials more widely available. By the 1950s, offset printing, a more efficient and economical process developed by American Ira Washington Rubel in 1903, had replaced letterpress as the predominant printing method. Letterpress has a threedimensional quality, as the type is pressed into the paper. A piece of metal type hits the paper, which makes the printed materials visually inviting. As I watch, Cyndi pulls several letters and numerals from the drawers and places them on the stone, or main work area. Each one is a tiny piece of sculpture in itself.

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Arranged into names or words, pressed into thoughts in a book, they are powerful tools. The craft has its own language. There is the anatomy of a letter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; waist, beak, spur. Numbers are known as figures. Grammatical marks, such as question marks or exclamation points, and upper- and lower-case lettering are called sorts. In the days of letterpress print shops, when the compositor ran out of, perhaps, a question mark, he would call out, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Can you send some sorts?â&#x20AC;? The saying â&#x20AC;&#x153;I feel out of sortsâ&#x20AC;? is derived from this terminology. Paper-making allowed texts to flourish in the 12th century and they became abundant by the 15th century. Mechanical presses and movable type gave rise to printed text, which encouraged the spread of literacy. Eidolon Press houses equipment that is over one hundred years old. The machineryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simplicity is a marvel. Hand levers draw rollers over inked plates; wheels turn gears. Paper goes in blank and emerges with text, poems, images. â&#x20AC;&#x153;All of my equipment is run by hand â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there are no motors except me,â&#x20AC;? Cyndi says as she demonstrates the workings of a vintage 8 x 12 Chandler and Price treadle press. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The pilot press (6 x 10 American Printing Equipment) is where I do the majority of my small work. Both presses are called platen presses.â&#x20AC;? The rollers go over the platen, a plate that is painted with ink. Below the platen, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;chaseâ&#x20AC;? holds the text in place. In the chase, the type is firmed into place by small blocks of wood called â&#x20AC;&#x153;furnitureâ&#x20AC;? which are tightened by oddly shaped, almost cylindrical â&#x20AC;&#x153;quoins.â&#x20AC;? The rollers get inked on the platen and deposit the ink on the type, which then presses it into a blank sheet of paper. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I use hand-set hot metal type... Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a purist,â&#x20AC;? she smiles. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a beauty in the physical object itself, as well as the job it is doing.â&#x20AC;? Cyndi utilizes fine papers from Europe and the U.S. and fonts from her collection of hot metal type. On the walls hang some of her printed art, each a masterpiece in design, color and texture. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I only do custom work. Each job has its own considerations and is one of a kind, so I work closely with each client. The printing techniques havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t changed; this was going on five hundred years ago.â&#x20AC;? She notes of movable type, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a joy to work with if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a creative person.â&#x20AC;? In her shop she creates custom wedding invitations, birth announcements, business systems, social stationary and limited-edition books. As an avid reader, Cyndi initially became interested in how books were produced, which led her to the private press world. This is where people embrace letterpress printing and fine printing in the book form. She recalls, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I read lots of trade books and started visiting antiquarian book stores, and then started to find books that were printed letterpress.â&#x20AC;? At the time, she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t realize thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what they were. The books were attractive


to her in their uniqueness, their texture and dimension. Ultimately, she became an apprentice letterpress printer at the Yolla Bolly Press in Covelo, California. From there she went to work in the Bay area at Arion Press, One Heart Press and Taurus Bindery. In 2002, she returned to Crested Butte to open Eidolon as a letterpress print shop and bookbindery. In addition to her letterpress work, Cyndi is a master bookbinder. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My heart loves making these books,â&#x20AC;? she confesses. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My interest in fine books and fine printing introduced me to fine binding. These fields are entwined.â&#x20AC;? While working in San Francisco, she began private instruction with Eleanor Ramsey, a highly respected binder on the west coast. Continuing her education, she went to Ascona, Switzerland, to Centro del bel Libro to study under Edwin Heim. Then she enrolled in the American Academy of Bookbinding, from which she graduated in 2007 with a degree in fine binding. She continues to study in the off seasons, always honing her skills.

Bookbinding has its origins in India, where religious sutra were copied onto cut palm leaves, dried and rubbed with ink, which would form a stain in the wound. Numbered, the leaves were then threaded with twine, which was also threaded through wooden boards. Buddhist monks spread this book design through Persia, Afghanistan, Iran and China in the first century B.C. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Binding is completely different from printing,â&#x20AC;? Cyndi explains. â&#x20AC;&#x153;With printing, you are creating the same item over and over. With bookbinding, this is known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;edition binding.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; I rarely do editions. Most books I make are singularly unique. They are called fine bindings.â&#x20AC;? These types of books are sewn by hand on a traditional sewing frame with cords. Then the boards are attached to the bookblock with the sewing cords, strengthening the structure and creating a book that will last generations. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been trained in 500-year-old French techniques, in â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;true bindingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;,â&#x20AC;? Cyndi says. The covers she has created are

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masterful compositions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; richly hued leathers interpreting the message of the book, as is the credo of the fine binder. The piece â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Springing of the Bladeâ&#x20AC;? depicts a dead blade of grass and a new blade â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the cycle of life â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all surrounded by gold tooling that reaches into the interior of the cover. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is a creative act designed to intrigue the reader. The books I make are intended to be beautiful works of art. They are more akin to oil paintings in that they are each one of a kind.â&#x20AC;? Each book cover â&#x20AC;&#x201C; like a â&#x20AC;&#x153;paintingâ&#x20AC;? constructed of rich leather with the delicate inset of a thin wire strand â&#x20AC;&#x201C; makes art of the poetry, stories or even blank pages within. There are different styles of binding, such as European, Asian and the recently revealed Secret Belgian binding. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was just discovered by a Belgian librarian; they introduced it to everyone as a different way to put boards (the structure of the cover) on.â&#x20AC;? Cyndi has just learned this technique. Much more in demand in the binding world are the fields of conservation and restoration, each different in its function, both repairing a damaged tome. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Conservation is where you have an old book in need of repair. You keep all the old parts and repair it with respect to its original condition. Often the parts are all housed together in a box.â&#x20AC;? In conservation, all parts are retained and saved. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an undertaking done primarily for a rare book or one with sentimental value. Restoration brings a book back into a usable, readable form and can involve new materials. A restoration binder might fix the endsheets or put a new cover on the book â&#x20AC;&#x201C; befitting the time frame in which the book was made. Through the centuries there have been different styles of book cover design, ornaments and decorations. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The task of the binder is to figure out the most appropriate way to repair it into a usable, readable, enjoyable book. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not better or worse, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appropriateness,â&#x20AC;? Cyndi says. Why name the press Eidolon? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an archaic word with roots in the Greek â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;eidosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, meaning form. But it has two meanings. The first is a noun: a phantom or apparition. The second is an American bastardization: an ideal thing or person. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Eidolon Press is my ideal thing,â&#x20AC;? Cyndi explains. She has created a world set into ink; thought and word bound in the ancient art ways; books asking to be opened, admired, read and felt. Cyndi glances around her realm of old machines and timeless art. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Welcome to my world.â&#x20AC;? Dawne Belloise is a freelance writer, photographer, traveler and musician living in a tiny cottage on an alley at the end of the road in paradise. E-mail dbelloise@gmail.com or web rubysroad.com.


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: photo by J.C. Leacock

: photo by J.C. Leacock

: photo by Alex Fenlon

129(0%(5 19-21 25 27-29

Teens on Stage: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Lion, the Witch & the Wardrobeâ&#x20AC;? Opening day, Crested Butte Mountain Resort (CBMR) Thanksgiving Camp, Crested Butte Nordic Center

'(&(0%(5 5 Crystal Palace Theatre with Mead Metcalf, Center for the Arts 5, 12, 19 Citizens Race Series, CB Nordic Center 5 Holiday Bazaar, Crested Butte Community School 18-20, 22-23, 26-27, 29-31 â&#x20AC;&#x153;Miracle on 34th Street,â&#x20AC;? CB Mountain Theatre 20 USASA Southwest Series Slalom Races at the ski area 20 Solstice Brunch at the yurt, CB Nordic Center 27 Brunch at the yurt, CB Nordic Center 31 Moonlight Snowshoe Tour, CBMR 31 Full-moon Yurt Dinner Party, CB Nordic Center 31 New Years Eve torchlight parade & celebration, Mt. CB

-$18$5<

: photo by Dusty Demerson

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Miracle on 34th Street,â&#x20AC;? CB Mountain Theatre USASA Southwest Series Superpipe and Slopestyle, CBMR Citizens Race Series, CB Nordic Center Adaptive High Adventure Weekend: Ice & Ski, Adaptive Sports Ctr. Manitou Art Theatreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;Firehouse Circus,â&#x20AC;? Center for the Arts Brunch at the yurt, CB Nordic Center Sit Ski Fiesta, Adaptive Sports Center (ASC) Boulder Acoustic Society, Center for the Arts USASA Southwest Series Superpipe, CBMR Moonlight Snowshoe Tour, CBMR Full-moon Yurt Dinner Tour, CB Nordic Center &5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(!


)(%58$5< 6 12 14 17-21 18-21 19-22 23 26-28 27-28 27 28 28

Alley Loop Nordic Races (5K-42K), CB Nordic Center Suzy Boggus, Center for the Arts Valentine’s Brunch at the yurt, CB Nordic Center Extreme Freeskiing Championships, Freeskiing World Tour, CBMR Prater Cup ski races, CBMR Adaptive High Adventure Weekend: Advanced Snowboarding, ASC Marc Cohn, Center for the Arts Autism Family Weekend, ASC USASA Southwest Series Superpipe, GS & Slalom, CBMR Crested Butte’s Got Talent! Center for the Arts Moonlight Snowshoe Tour, CBMR Full-moon Yurt Dinner Tour, CB Nordic Center

0$5&+ 5 6-7 9-10 12 13-14 13 14 17 18-21 19-20 20 19-22 21 26-27 30 30

Alpin Hong, Center for the Arts Alison Gannett’s Rippin Chix Ski Camp Aspen Santa Fe Ballet, Center for the Arts Banff Film Festival, Center for the Arts USASA Southwest Series BX, CBMR Red Lady Salvation Ball, High Country Citizens Alliance Brunch at the yurt, CB Nordic Center Wedding Show, Mt. Crested Butte’s Visitors Center Extreme Telemark Freeskiing Championships, CBMR Crested Butte Land Trust Adventure Auction/Gourmet Dinner Progressive Bonfire Dinner on Town Ranch loop, CB Nordic Center Adaptive High Adventure Weekend, Ladies Getaway, ASC Al Johnson Memorial Uphill/Downhill Telemark Ski Race, CBMR Elk Mountains Grand Traverse, CB to Aspen backcountry race Moonlight Snowshoe Tour, CBMR Full-moon Yurt Dinner Tour, CB Nordic Center

$35,/ 1-4 4 : photo by Dusty Demerson

: photo by Nathan Bilow

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Flauschink flushing-of-winter celebration, Crested Butte Closing day, CBMR ski resort

For details, see gunnisoncrestedbutte.com/events.


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: photo by Alex Fenlon

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ůŽĚŐŝŶŐŐƵŝĚĞ

: photo by Natan Bilow

Establishment

Description

30 Treasury • Luxury Vacation Home

Tastefully appointed 5 bedroom/51/2 bath home with an additional 1 bedroom suite. Sleeps 13 very comfortably.

info@cbbound.com www.cbbound.com

30

Crested Butte’s premium vacation rentals. We work with each client to provide the perfect vacation -- arranging accommodations, activities, tours and more.

1.800.260.1935 www.alpinegetaways.com

93

Secluded private cabins in beautiful wild setting only 20 minutes from town.“You’re the only guest.”

www.cementcreekranch.com

Cozy B&B inn with European ski lodge charm. Hearty homemade Continental breakfast served fireside. Hot tub with mountain views. Private baths. Near free shuttle; walk to shops & restaurants.

1.800.824.7899 www.cristianaguesthaus.com email: info@cristianaguesthaus.com

96

Historic inn located in a residential neighborhood of downtown Crested Butte. Just two blocks off the “main street.” 19 rooms individually decorated. Some with balconies.

1.800.374.6521 www.elkmountainlodge.net email: info@elkmountainlodge.net

96

Stay and ski for less. Just 30 minutes from Crested Butte. Full hot breakfast, indoor pool, indoor-outdoor whirlpool.

1.970.641.1288 www.hiexpress.com/gunnisonco

Beautiful 7-bedroom, 8-bathroom home. An ideal vacation home and great location for the whole family. Sleeps 19.

1.970.209.6376 keithpayne@yahoo.com www.213third.com

96

Specializing in highly personalized property management and vacation rentals. Expect more.

1.888.417.4766 www.ironhorsecb.com

31

The Nordic Inn • Hotel 14 Treasury Road, PO Box 939 Mt. Crested Butte, CO 81225

Allen (your host since 1969) and Judy Cox welcome you to this Scandinavian-style lodge. Rooms with two double beds & private baths. Within walking distance of the ski mountain.

1.800.542.7669 www.nordicinncb.com email: acox@nordicinncb.com

95

Old Town Inn • Hotel & Family Inn

The warmth of a family inn; value, convenience & amenities of a hotel. Home-made afternoon snacks, yummy breakfast. Rooms with two queen beds. On shuttle route, or stroll to shops, restaurants & trailheads.

1.888.349.6184 www.oldtowninn.net email: info@oldtowninn.net

94

Specializing in one to four bedroom private vacation home rentals in historic downtown Crested Butte, Mt. CB & the Club at Crested Butte (country club).

1.888.909.7325 www.peakcb.com email: kat@peakcb.com

94

Large variety of private, luxury rental homes in Crested Butte, Mt. Crested Butte, the Club at Crested Butte and Meridian Lake.

1.800.285.0459 www.prproperty.com

96

Luxury B&B with full breakfast, private baths and concierge in historic Crested Butte. Also pampers pets with in-room dog beds, crates, home-made treats and dog-sitting service.

1.800.390.1338 www.therubyofcrestedbutte.com

57

Beautiful log home on the mountain; great for families or large groups. Six bedrooms, six baths, sleeps up to 23. Spectacular views!

1.970.209.6376 www.790gothic.com email: keithpayne@yahoo.com

30 Treasury Road Mt. Crested Butte, CO 81225

Alpine Getaways Vacation Rentals 510 Elk Avenue Crested Butte, CO

Cement Creek Ranch Cabins Cement Creek, south of Crested Butte

Cristiana Guesthaus Bed & Breakfast Hotel 621 Maroon Ave, PO Box 427, Crested Butte, CO

Elk Mountain Lodge Bed & Breakfast Lodge 129 Gothic Avenue, Crested Butte, CO 81224

Holiday Inn Express• Hotel 910 East Tomichi Gunnison, CO 81230

213 Third Street • Rustic Log Home 213 Third Street Crested Butte, CO 81224

Iron Horse Property Management Rental Homes Box 168, Crested Butte, CO 81224

Hwy 135 & Red Lady Ave. • PO Box 990 Crested Butte, CO 81224

Peak Property Management & Sales Rental Homes PO Box 2023, Crested Butte, CO 81224

PR Property Management Rental Homes 350 Country Club Dr., 110A, Crested Butte, CO

The Ruby of Crested Butte Luxury Bed & Breakfast 624 Gothic Ave, PO Box 3801, Crested Butte, CO

Vacation Log Home • Rental Home 790 Gothic Road Mt. Crested Butte, CO 81225 !&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(

Reservations

Ad Page

95

95

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The

perfect

Crested Butte vacation

begins here.

At Alpine Getaways, offering the best properties is just the beginning. Your experience starts with finding the right property, but our commitment extends far beyond.

crested butte premium vacation rentals We work with each client to provide the perfect vacation—arranging accommodations, tours, activities and more. When it comes to your vacation, we want everything to be just right. Our concierge services will make every effort to accommodate your requests while you sit back and relax.

• Online reservations • Detailed listings with photos • Discounted lift tickets • Stocked fridge prior to arrival • Activity bookings (ie. biking, fishing) • Baby sitting • Pet sitting • Romantic getaway packages • Out of area tours

A preferred partner of:

510 Elk Ave. (at the 4-way) PO box 2442 Crested Butte, CO 81224

Phone: 970.349.0539 www.alpinegetaways.com

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VACATION LOG HOME

The ultimate vacation getaway for large families or large groups. Six bedrooms and six baths including 5 Kings, 1 Queen, 7 Twins plus 2 sleeper couches, sleeps 23 comfortably. Take the free shuttle bus or make the 5 minute walk to the ski base area, lifts, shops and restaurants. After a day of skiing, hiking, fishing or biking, soak in the outdoor hot tub or the indoor spa tub, play a game of pool or just relax gazing out the window at the spectacular mountain views from your rustic paradise. (970) 209-6376 790 Gothic at Whetstone on the Mountain E-mail: keithpayne@yahoo.com For additional pictures and rates visit our website: www.790gothic.com

!&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(


Just 30 minutes from Crested Butte!

Drive yourself or take the free RTA shuttle!

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5$1&+

910 E TOMICHI, GUNNISON, CO | 970.641.1288

WWW.HIEXPRESS.COM/GUNNISONCO

A7=:*-;< +ZM[\ML*]\\M;SQ>IKI\QWV >)4=-  ONE NIGHT packages from $201

STAY 7 nights, SKI FREE 3 days!

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SEVEN NIGHT packages from $170

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9380 Prime • 251-3030 Elevation Hotel, Mt. Crested Butte

Avalanche • 349-7195 Base area, Mt. Crested Butte

Bacchanale • 349-5257 209 Elk Ave. Downtown

Butte 66 • 349-2999 Treasury Building, Mt. Crested Butte

Django’s • 349-7574 Courtyard of Mountaineer Square Mt. Crested Butte

Donita’s Cantina • 349-6674 4th & Elk in Crested Butte

East Side Bistro • 349-9699 435 6th Street, Crested Butte

Ice Bar, Uley’s Cabin • 349-2275 On-mountain, Mt. Crested Butte

Last Steep • 349-7007 208 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte

Lil’s • 349-5457 321 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte

Lobar • 349-0480 Downstairs at 3rd & Elk Crested Butte

Marchitelli’s Gourmet Noodle 349-7401 411 Third Street, Crested Butte

Maxwells • 349-1221 226 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte

McGill’s • 349-5240 228 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte

Slogar • 349-5765 2nd & Whiterock, Crested Butte

Wooden Nickel • 349-6350 222 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte

Cuisine

Price Course

Ad Page

Establishment

Reservations Children’s Menu Aprés Ski Happy Hour Specials Late Night 10pm > Full Bar Live Entertainment Private Parties Outdoor Dining Televisions/Sports Catering Take Out

: photo by J.C. Leacock

ĚŝŶŝŶŐŐƵŝĚĞ

This slopeside restaurant features 2 dining venues: 9380, the casual choice, and Prime for fine dining. 9380 is your breakfast, lunch and apres-ski spot, with convenient firepit and outdoor bar. Prime opens at night for contemporary dining.

$7-39

Breakfast Lunch    100 Dinner

The place to be for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The Avalanche has been proudly fueling locals, seasonal residents and visitors for more than 15 years. Extensive menu for even the most demanding diners. Salads to pizzas, happy hour specials.

$5-27

Breakfast Lunch   99 Dinner

Italian; Delicious, casual Italian cuisine with marvelous entrees such as veal parmigiana, fra diavolo, or cannelloni for your main dish. Many meatless selections. Extensive appetizer menus and kid’s menu. Happy hours with tapas.

$12-32

Dinner

   99

The most popular apres-ski bar/eatery on the mountain with live music and daily drink specials. New menu features all the cuisine encountered on Rt. 66: St. Louis ribs to Albuquerque corn chowder. Huge outdoor deck with slopeside views.

$7-25

Lunch Dinner

    98

At this newcomer, you’ll experience a variety of artful small plates in a comfortable modern setting. Out-of-the-norm menu and wine list draw from Southern Europe. Apres-ski and unique dining experience.

$4-18

Brunch Dinner

  85

Mexican; Down-to-earth eatery specializing in good food, ample portions, fun service. Fabulous fajitas, enchanting enchiladas, bueno burritos. Local favorite for over 30 years; casual atmosphere.

$4-24

Dinner

  100

Fine Dining; Upscale casual neighborhood bistro. Our menu evolves seasonally & represents the eclectic, creative, sophisticated visions of our passion for food, using locally fresh ingredients & prepared with innovative, contemporary style.

$10-35

Brunch Dinner

   100

World-class cuisine fuses fresh Rocky Mtn. ingredients with French exotic drinks at a bar made of ice. Gourmet lunches at new Uley’s Cabin. Specialty beverages on the sunny deck. Also hosting Last Tracks and Sleighride Dinners.

$10-45

Lunch Dinner

    101

Sandwiches/soup/salads; Casual family dining, relaxing atmosphere. Affordable menu with Caribbean island flair; Cajun chicken pasta, curry shrimp & coconut salad, artichoke-cheddar soup in bread bowl.

$5-16

Lunch Dinner

    101

Sushi bar & grill; Crested Butte’s original sushi bar serving great seafood, steaks and surf & turf entrees, as well as options for the little ones. In Historic Downtown.

$4-28

Dinner

  101

Eclectic dining: people rave about our sushi, but we’ve introduced a new casual bistro menu, fish tacos to crack fries! Free kids’ meals 5-6 p.m. On weekends, the Lobar transforms into CB’s only nightclub with live music, karaoke, DJs & more.

$8-32

Dinner

  98

Italian; Offering generations of family recipes in a cozy, relaxed atmosphere. The menu features unique pasta-sauce combos, traditional and regional Italian, seafood, veal and elk. Reservations recommended.

$6-30

Dinner

     101

Fine Dining; CB’s newest steakhouse. HDTVs for watching the games. Great hand-cut steaks, seafood, pastas, lamb, pork, burgers, salads, appetizers, kids’ menu. Extensive wines and beers.

$7-31

Dinner

 99

Old-Fashioned soda fountain; with malts, shakes, sundaes, banana splits, libations; home-cooked breakfasts and lunches prepared to order. Historic locale, casual atmosphere.

$4-15

Skillet-friend chicken and steak dinners served family-style. The toughest part is deciding what tastes the best: mashed potatoes, fresh biscuits, creamed corn, chutney, steak, chicken.

$15-28 Dinner

   98

Steaks, prime rib, king crab; Known for the best steaks in town. USDA Prime cuts of beef, Alaska King crab, ribs, pork and lamb chops, grilled seafood, burgers, chicken fried steak and buffalo burgers.

$7-40

Dinner

   62

Breakfast          76 Lunch

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BAR & GRILLE The most popular après ski bar and eatery on the mountain introduces an expanded menu to go with its live music and daily drink specials. The new menu features classic tastes of the American West. From St. Louis Ribs to Albuquerque Corn Chowder, Butte 66 offers up something for everyone. LUNCH, APRĂ&#x2C6;S SKI & TWILIGHT DINNER

!&5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(

(970)349-2999 SLOPESIDE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; TREASURY CENTER


Italian Dining

Wild PaciďŹ c Salmon Local Organic Steaks Homemade Italian Specialties, Soups, Salads & Desserts Nightly Specials Progressive Wine List Large Groups Welcome To Go Menu & Take Away Dinner Parties Dinner Nightly Happy Hours 5-6 & 8-9pm with Tapas & Drink Specials

209 Elk Avenue Downtown Crested Butte 349-5257 www.bacchanale.net

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Photos: Tom Stillo

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9380, the casual choice, and Prime, the ямБne-dining option are both located slopeside at the Elevation Hotel & Spa. 9380 features breakfast, lunch and apr├иs ski with ski-in/ski-out convenience. At night, Prime opens for a unique contemporary dining experience.

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SLOPESIDE ELEVATION HOTEL & SPA (970)251-3030


Ice Barat The

Gourmet lunches served daily inside the brand new Uley’s Cabin. Enjoy an exotic drink outside at a bar made out of ice!

ULEY’S

Located at the base of the Twister lift. (970)349-2275

LAST TRACKS DINNER Ride the lift up to a gourmet dinner, then ski, snowboard, or snowshoe back to the base using headlamps to light your way.

SLEIGHRIDE DINNER Ride in an open sleigh pulled by a snowcat to a four-course dinner. DINNER RESERVATIONS

Dinner Nightly 349-7401

(970)349-4554 OR VISIT THE ADVENTURE CENTER

Irresistibly Italian Downtown Crested Butte &5(67('%877(0$*$=,1(!


SKRWR ÀQLVK : photo by Alex Fenlon

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Inspired Mountain LivingҖ

© 2008. An independently owned and operated member of Prudential Real Estate Affiliates, Inc. “The Rock” is a registered service mark of the Prudential Insurance Company of America. Equal Housing Opportunity. If your property is currently listed with a real estate broker, please disregard. Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed.

Ҕ

You want to feel at home in Crested Butte before you buy. You want regular communication and unparalleled service by sales professionals who live and work in the area that inspires you.

For more information call or visit us online. CBProperty.com Downtown Crested Butte office | 970.349.6691 Slopeside in Mt. Crested Butte office | 970.349.6692

That’s where Prudential Becky Hamlin Realty, Inc. comes in. Our sales professionals have the knowledge and skills to make your experience of home ownership a delight while treating you to a Crested Butte only locals know.


Crested Butte Magazine Winter/Spring 2009/2010