Crème de Cornell Fall'16 by Crème de Cornell

crème DE CORNELL

crĂ¨me DE CORNELL

Editor-in-chief

Kristen Yi, Cathy Zhang

04 complex flavors 07 trend report 08 a microscopic perspective 09 banchan &korean spices 10 recipes: bites of korea 12 dim sum

Managing Editors Editing Staff

Layout Director Layout Staff

Benjamin Chiaravanont, Gabrielle Leung Allison Coomber, Samantha Li, Victoria Litvinova, Ronni Mok, Christina Picornell Julia Wang Rowena Chen, Kathie Jiang, Lily Levin, Samantha Li, Crystal Liu, Ben Ross, Megan She

Photography Director Photography Staff

Christian Walsh Ben Ross, Mana Jhaveri, Michelle Jarcho, Nghi Nguyen, Runde Yan

Contributing Writers

Crystal Cheng, Julia Deustch, Sofie Kim, Samantha Lau, Pichanon Nantavaropas, Clarie Ng, Ben Ross, Kristen Yi, Cathy Zhang

Culinary Directors Blog Director Webmaster Publicity Chair Social Media Chair Event Chair Treasurer Advisor

14 omakase

Rachel Allison, Ethyn Leong Alexandra Fowler Crystal Liu Prajjalita Dey Amy Zhong Stephanie Paiva Nafisa Hossain Heather Kowlakowski

CrĂ¨me de Cornell, an independent student publication at Cornell University, produced and is responsible for the content of this publication. This publication was not reviewed or approved by, nor does it necessarily express or reflect the policies or opinions of, Cornell University or its designated representatives. If you are interested in joining, please contact us at cremedecornell@gmail.com, or find us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/CornellGourmetClub. Funded by Cornell SAFC and International Students Union.

18 spicing up your staples 22 recipes: donuts and madeleines 24 craft beer 26 inside the m.r.e. 31 a summer at food network 32 recipes: 6-in-1 bars 33 recipes: brussel sprouts, meatballs, musabi, and risotto

Front Cover by Cathy Zhang

COMPLEX FLAVORS REPRESENTED IN SMALL PLATES

As the culinary world grows, the scope of influence that contemporary chefs have has increased dramatically. In fact, there has never been a more perfect time to experience a variety of different cultures on a single plate than now, with restaurants that seem to pride themselves on elements of “fusion” and international influence popping up almost monthly. The most surprising consequence of this expanded perspective? The shrinking of dish size. Whether it’s a Chaiman Bao at Eddie Huang’s famous New York City spot BaoHaus, or the mind bending experience that is the garlic chive blossom omelet at O-Ya in Midtown, the best, most popular food you can find these days seems to come in small packages. And quite frankly, we shouldn’t be complaining. The advantages of presenting such vibrant flavors in small forms come primarily in the form of density: a variety and intensity of flavor can be packed into one dish. The curation of mouth feel is much more precise when crafting foods that are meant to be bite-sized, which may very well be a result of the popularization of sushi and omakase across the culinary world. The ability to highlight different ends of the flavor spectrum, incorporating hints of sweetness and saltiness together is an advent worth celebrating. Everywhere I look, smaller appears to be better. Even though the trend of petite plates seems to be particularly characteristic of contemporary gastronomy, there’s no ignoring the significance of small dishes in the established cultures of the world. Whether it’s sushi in

TREND REPORT: MINIS MAKE IT BIG

Japan, tacos in Mexico, dim sum in China, or the - in my opinion - severely underrated empanadas of Argentina, countries around the world have been curating the small–plate trend for centuries. It reminds us of how far the idea of food has come – it is not simply a subtance necessary for survival, but also a medium through which artistic expression, luxury, and delight can be conveyed.

BY JULIET BENDER

On the significance of small plates, I asked a peer of mine, Bo Zhang, for his thoughts on the allure of dim sum.

“

I really feel like simplicity and variety are its greatest strengths. The fact that you wake up hungry and get to feast while exploring so many simple textures and flavors is like no other experience. Whether its the salty sweetness of cha siu bao (pork bun), or the simple, savory chewiness of a chee cheong fun (shrimp noodle roll), there’s nothing like traditional dim sum.”

“

Small seems to have always been a good idea, but only recently has the world begun to highlight its merits. As you explore the culinary world and indulge in dishes big and small, remember to always take a moment to appreciate the petite.

How often do you frequent the soda machines in the dining hall? Maybe more than you realize? If so, you’re not alone. We can all identity with the classic movie theater scene of the satisfying pop of the opening cap, the red cup with clear clinking ice, and the refreshing cool liquid. Coca-Cola is a part of the American psyche and has been for years, from the famous 1970s “I Like to Sing” commercial to modern ads exploiting sentimental emotions such as happiness, playfulness, and hope. Americans have a love-hate relationship with Coke. Coke has been around sincethe late 19th century, and many people and families associate the drink with events or milestones in their lives. Personally, I associate the drink with family holidays. My grandparents would buy large cases and place Coke cans randomly across the table, (whether for decorative purposes or to actually consume, I was never certain.) Either way, like with so many other families, Coca-Cola became a part of our traditions. As a result of these close ties, many Americans have a hard time associating the drink with its detrimental health effects. Even with possible excess sugar and carcinogenic concerns, sales of cans and bottles of Coke have increased in the last two years. However, Coca Cola has noticed that consumers still want Coke, but in a smaller volume. The debate over the health effects of carbonated soft drinks has ledto such dramatic reactions as soda taxes in major cities like New York City.

BY MICHELANGELO HARRIS BY MICHELANGELO HARRIS

In response to these health concerns, Coca-Cola has released new 7.5-oz “mini” cans of Coke. The introduction of this new size has caused sales to increase as consumers feel less guilty when they consume fewer calories per portion of the sugary and addictive drink. Professors at Cornell, including Professors David Just and Brian Wansink, have performed research in Cornell’s Food and Brand Lab showing that a certain label, such as ‘mini,’ can influence consumers’ purchasing habits. Coca-Cola is overjoyed that they can save money on packaging while raising sales revenue in the process. Commenting on the redesign, Professor Just noted, “Certainly, they make more money per ounce this way.” Interestingly, the price of a pack of mini cans is higher than the normal 12-oz cans, but parents seem to feel that the new size is a more reasonable way to sugar-splurge on their kids. These days, consumers seem to think that value is not based solely on price, but can be redefined as health longevity. In a Coca-Cola Super Bowl ad promoting the mini cans, a riveting scene featured Marvel’s The Hulk comically sipping a mini Coke with his huge limbs. F those snatching up 6-packs of mini Cokes, maybe small is the new big.

// photo by michelle jarcho 6

Often when we hear of food-related microorganisms, we freak out: ugly bread molds, rotten cheese, and all the horrible symptoms after we eat them – yikes! Long since modern food production, microorganisms have been associated with a negative reputation of the foodborne illnesses and food quality destructors. While some are considered as “The Bad”, many organisms are not only beneficial to our gut health, they’re also what makes some of the best-tasting foods in the world – from cheese (yes pizza), yogurt to kombucha. This article will share you a little more on the story behind our little friends inside our food, how they plays a role in food production, and how to pair these foods for optimal nutrition and comfort (talk about benefits!). Microorganisms have long been a part of food culture since ancient civilization when the Egyptians made bread using water, flour, and yeast around 300 B.C. However the first realization that microorganisms were involved in food production did not emerge until 1837, when scientists discovered yeast’s role in alcohol fermentation. Finally after the World War II, we have begun more research in understanding microorganisms and using them in product development and nutritional benefits. Below are some common foods made with the help from the “good” microorganisms:

CHEESE: As complex as the variety of cheeses sounds, the magic of making cheese is really just 4 ingredients: milk, salt, rennet (coagulant), and microbes. The difference in microbial usage is what makes traditional cheeses more complex than modern cheeses. Some common microorganisms include lactic acid bacteria, propionic acid bacteria and molds (blue and white…sounds familiar?), which all give flavor, smell, and protection

BY SAMANTHA LAU PHOTOS BY BEN ROSS

You sit down at a Korean restaurant and you place your order. Your drinks are served to you, follow by a tray of mini dishes of different colors and aromas. You are ecstatic because you are starving and waiting for your main meal is nauseating. You start chowing down and picking at these many small dishes and you may finish one or more before your main meal comes out. Yes, I am talking about the infamous banchan.

to cheese. YOGURT: There are reasons your doctor or your dietitian always tells you to “eat more yogurt!”. These gut-friendly probiotic bacteria are found both in your gut and in yogurt but for different purposes. By selecting different strains of bacteria, the product would taste differently and thus producing all the magic from Danone to Chobani. Consuming probiotics regularly has been associated with improved absorption and immune system function and less bloating and other digestive-related issues. KIMCHI/PICKLED VEGETABLES: Originally, vegetables were pickled as a method to preserve them longer for storage. Now, lots of health benefits have been associated with consuming pickled vegetables, such as increased nutrient content (B-Vitamins, enzymes) and improved digestion. Cultures around the world have been honoring fermented foods from kimchi in Korea to sauerkraut in Germany. Sadly, these gems have become an undermined dish to our everyday meals. NEW TRENDS: With increasing understanding of how microorganisms play a role in food production, the food industry has been continuously exploring to find creative foods made with the help of microorganisms. Check out some below: KOMBUCHA: Often known as fermented tea, kombucha is made form sweet tea that has been fermented by a colony of bacteria and yeast. Though it has been around in China for centuries, its arrival to North America was only in the 1990s. Businesses transform the modern kombucha with fruit flavors such as apple, lemon, etc. and advertises its benefits throughout social media. Truly,

Banchan

A MICROSCOPIC Perspective on the Organisms Inside Your Food:

kombucha does aid in many aspects such as detoxification, immune boosting, and gut health, and deserves an award to be called magical potion of the year.

As a self-proclaimed foodie, I am quick to judge a restaurant based on the quality and quantity of the banchan. The banchan are both good on its own and alongside whatever you may have ordered. It is always quickly refilled when you get to the bottom of the dish and each dish has a unique taste. Every time I am back in New York City, I will go out of my way and head to Hahm Ji Bach restaurant in Queens, New York. It is a traditional Korean restaurant that has everything from Korean barbeque to stews to rice dishes. They typically have an upwards of fourteen banchan served and I usually make a meal out of it. While most people the banchan alongside their main dish or their barbequed meat, I eat the main course alongside my banchan. What I love about the banchan is the Korean spices and ingredients it usually has. This includes red pepper, ginger, garlic, green onion, and sesame. The Korean red pepper is different than the chili red pepper you would typically associate pepper with. It is both sweet and spicy compared to the

Korean Spices

conventional red pepper which is more smoky and spicy. The Korean red pepper can make any the dish look red and aesthetically pleasing. One can add an abundant amount of this pepper into your dish because it will not give you as significant of a burn compared to the conventional red pepper flakes. Sesame seeds and sesame oil is also common in Korean dishes. The seeds can be either white or black, and are typically used as a garnish. They are nutty and can enhance your dish. The oil similarly has a strong, nutty flavor and thus, not a lot is needed since the fragrant aroma can quickly overwhelm the dish or sauce you use it in. Other commonly found ingredients in Korean cuisine are garlic and ginger. It is used in banchan, main dishes, and stew. Green onion is always found in kimchi and can be used to make broth, pancakes, and as a garnish. Kimchi is notoriously known for not being a difficult process, but being a long, enduring process. It is often made in large batches and may not be the most practical when living on or off campus. However, there are some banchans that are simple. They use these Korean spices that are commonly found in your local supermarket, and can be a nice addition to your meal.

SYMBIOTIC FOOD PAIRINGS: Synbiotic originates from the word “symbiotic”, meaning mutually beneficial. Food pairings that are synbiotic usually possess probiotic and prebiotic (foods that probiotics consume) components, thus increasing the benefits of all those foods mentioned above. You may not be aware of some of these foods, as they can be found in your life everyday! Some examples: Yogurt, oats, and honey Bananas, maple syrup, and yogurt Hummus & pickles Feta cheese & garlic (ex. pizza topping) Beans & sour cream (ex. chili) Grilled cheese w/ tomatoes & sourdough

RECIPES: Bites of Korea

by sofie kim // photo by ben ross

GEOTJORI:

JORIM:

is a spicy cabbage, lettuce, or radish preserved in salt and seasoned with powdered red pepper. Cabbage geotjeori can be thought of as a simple version of Kimchi (done without fermentation) and is best when eaten immediately after making. This recipe will show you how to make cabbage geotjeori, but you can also substitute cabbage with any vegetables that you like.

ingredients: (makes two servings) 200g small size cabbage 30g small size green onion 1Tbsp (10g) coarse salt 1Tbsp (5g) powdered red pepper ½Tbsp (5g) garlic ½ tsp (1g) ginger 1Tbsp (15ml) fish sauce* ½Tbsp (5g) sugar 1tsp (2g) ground sesame mixed w/ salt ½Tbsp (7ml) sesame oil *recommended but not mandatory

is banchan that is made by boiling the ingredients in soy sauce. Koreans love to use soy sauce as well as red pepper to cook banchan. I will introduce to you how to make simple jorim, which is one of our favorite banchan in Korea.

ingredients: (makes two servings) 200g white radish 150g tofu ¼ white onion 30g green onion 400ml water 1tsp salt 1 Tbsp oil 2 Tbsp soy sauce ½ Tbsp gochujang ½ Tbsp (5g) powdered red pepper 1½ Tbsp sugar 1 tsp ginger 2 tsp garlic

cabbage geotjori 1.

Halve a cabbage and cut it into 5cm pieces. Then, sprinkle coarse salt evenly on cabbage and leave it until some water comes out from the cabbage.

While preserving the cabbage, wash the green onion in the running water and cut it into 4cm pieces. Then, mince the garlic and ginger.

Make the sauce by mixing the garlic, ginger, fish sauce, sugar, ground sesame mixed with salt, and sesame oil. Keep in mind that the powdered red pepper is not included in the sauce.

When the cabbage is softer and well-preserved (about 20-60 min), wash it under running water and strain.

Put the cabbage in a bowl and season it with the powdered red pepper.

Place the sauce and the green onion in the bowl and then mix together.

Serve with rice and your favorite Korean entrée!

tofu radish jorim 1.

Peel a white radish and cut it into quarter vertically. Then slice it horizontally into less than ½ inch thickness. Dice the tofu into a similar size as the radish and sprinkle a little bit of sugar over them.

Quarter an onion and cut a green onion diagonally. Also chop ginger and garlic.

Make the sauce by mixing soy sauce, gochujang, powdered red pepper, sugar, ginger, and garlic.

Place chopped radish and white onion with the water in a pot and boil over medium heat for 10 minutes. While the chopped radish and onion are boiling, dry the tofu with a kitchen towel and panfry it with some oil to a beautiful golden brown.

Place the tofu and the sauce into the pot with the radish and onion and boil over medium heat until the amount of water is decreased to about 20% of the original amount.

7. 8.

Apply salt or water to taste. Sprinkle the green onions into the pot and boil over low heat for 3 min. Serve as banchan to your meal!

As in the recipes, Koreans usually make sauces with gochujang, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, chopped garlic, and ginger. These main Korean spices will help you create your own Korean banchan at home!

You can make a variety of jorim by using different ingredients. If you use fish instead of tofu, it will become a Korean main dish, fish jorim! Also, you may exclude gochujang if you don’t not want your food to be spicy.

m i D

: m u S

small bites for the whole table

by crystal cheng

I waited in anticipation as I eyed the metal cart slowly being pushed towards our table. As the cart approached, the waitress began lifting lids off of the bamboo steamers and listing off names of the dishes amongst the clamor of other customers in the restaurant. I could see the steam gently rising from the freshly prepared dim sum as the small bamboo baskets filled with dumplings, steamed buns, and rolls were placed on our table. Dim sum is a popular part of Cantonese food culture. Distinguished by its small portions served in bamboo steamers, each dim sum dish typically contains three or four pieces, designed for sharing. Eating dim sum along with drinking tea early in the morning is a traditional way of gathering together with friends and family. My mother, who grew up in Hong Kong, taught me the etiquette and customs of eating dim sum during our vacation there this past summer. For example, it is customary to pour tea for the rest of the table before pouring for yourself, and lightly tapping your index finger on the table is done to thank someone for pouring tea. While eating with my relatives in Hong Kong, I also noticed that the social dining atmosphere brought people together. With large groups, it is common to only have a small bite or taste of many different dishes. This sharing and passing of food around the table creates a sense of community and togetherness, a dramatic contrast to the bustling city life of Hong Kong. Eating dim sum amidst the fast paced lifestyle of the city makes each experience more personal and memorable.

Modern dim sum has its own unique traits that evolved over the years. Most dim sum restaurants now no longer use carts to deliver food to tables. Instead, menus are used for ordering and many restaurants offer take-out options. Not only eaten for breakfast, dim sum today is served during lunch hours or even later. Dim sum has also become popular around the world for its unique style of sharing bites of food family style. On a recent trip to San Francisco, I visited the Great Eastern Restaurant in Chinatown, which is well known for previously serving President Obama dim sum. One of my favorite dishes there was the sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf. The rice was filled with a savory meat and mushroom filling, creating a luscious earthy flavor. Another notable dish was the egg tart dessert, which was a freshly baked flaky, buttery crust filled with a mildly sweet egg custard. Many Cornellians may have experienced dim sum from the Robert Purcell Marketplace Eatery on North campus. At Sunday brunch, students line up at the dim sum station that serves dumplings, stuffed buns, egg rolls, and sticky rice. Although this has deviated from traditional practices of eating dim sum, it is still an example of dim sumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growing popularity. Not only symbolizing a great tasting cuisine, dim sum represents a lively time for friends and family to gather over a meal. The unique style of eating dim sum and its ability to create an animated, cheerful environment has made dim sum a growing trend worldwide. I highly recommend trying a dim sum restaurant and having a taste of some of the best Cantonese cuisine there is to offer.

// photos by cathy zhang

erhaps calling it a meal would not do it justice. Omakase literally means, “it’s up to you,” and it describes the unique experience of having your chef select the dishes for you. This idea sounds extremely foreign to those accustomed to choosing their food off of menus, but, in Japan, there exists a long-standing tradition of these kaiseki meals. In kaiseki, you choose the set meal but the chef determines what is served for each individual course. With this manner of eating seen as the highest form of Japanese cuisine, trusting the chef is a cultural mindset that the Japanese have had for a long time. Today, the principles of kaiseki have been adapted into the more accessible and casual nigiri sushi, which is your familiar raw fish laid over pressed rice with vinegar. In the realm of omakase, there is a whole host of prices, from the more affordable $150 to an exorbitant $400. Nonetheless, what uni-fies omakase and distinguishes it from regular sushi remains the same: the chef ’s conscious thought that goes into each perfectly executed bite, the immediacy of food preparation andconsumption, and the intimacy of not only the meal, but also the experience. In my opinion, three main features of omakase distinguish it from regular su-

shi. They are attention to detail, freshness and seasonality, and aesthetics. The first omakase meal I had was at Shinji by Kanesaka, located in the Raffles Hotel in Singapore. Ranked as one of Asia’s top 50 restaurants, it was an experience that stuck with me and opened my eyes to sushi at a whole new level. Delving into the first feature: attention to detail. I was first struck by the setting of an omakase meal. It was interesting that the number of guests is limited to ensure that each customer is attended to by a chef for an entire meal. Having a chef attend to you for your whole meal provides a form of consistency, with each dish well-timed, one after the other. When my meal first began, our chef proudly whipped out a board made out of shark skin and a fresh wasabi plant. Right in front of us, he grated our wasabi and explained to us that the wasabi that is usually sold in bottles is actually made out of horseradish. Though I half-questioned the use of shark skin as a grater, the fresh wasabi definitely tasted phenome nal. The texture was rougher than the usual green paste we squeeze from store-bought packages, but the taste was distinctly organic and raw Moving on to the main dishes, it was amazing how each fish was sliced, pre-

sented, and paired. Bringing out the full taste of each fish hinges on a variety of factors. For example, Chef Masataka Fujisawa at Rozan, who is well- known for his creativity, chops his fish instead of slicing it, which releases the flavors in a way that enhances the taste of the sushi. The source of water used to cook the rice and the overall temperature of the dish are also factors many omakase chefs recognize to be important. The temperature of the dish, and (believe it or not) the temperature difference between the components of a piece of sushi makes a difference! For instance, it is best to serve uni (sea urchin) cold with the rice a little warmer for it to taste the best. Finally, what distinguishes omakase from the usual sushi sets ordered in restaurants is the sequence in which the dishes are served. When we tuck into our usual sushi sets, we pay no particular attention to what we put in our mouth first (except maybe by initially gobbling up the ones we like best). However, in omakase, chefs like to start off with lighter flavors and simpler textures, increasing the richness and complexity of the dishes as the courses go along. From my experiences, chefs also throw in clear soups and fresh ginger in between each dish. These complements to the meal help cleanse your palate and prime your

tongue for the next dish. Also, as some words of advice: don’t be picky, savor everything, and finally, finish the dishes served, as it is courtesy to the chef! Leaving behind a tiny bit of the dish is akin to leaving behind a whole lot of thought and detail put in by your chef! The next important feature of omakase is its uncompromising freshness (both in taste and creativity). Chefs well adhere to this by selecting the best fish of the season and pairing it with complementary ingredients that make it a gastronomical adventure. Imagine being fed the freshest cuts of o-toro (the most expensive cut of tuna) garnished with fresh scallions, savoring the fat that melts in your mouth while the scallions add a mellow hint of onion. Or chew ing a delicately sliced hotate (scallop) brushed with homemade ponzu sauce, topped with a fresh shiso leaf. The soft flesh of the scallop coated inponzu, which has a sweet citrus taste profile, is a perfect combination, just like how seafood is usually paired with lemon in Western cuisines. The added shiso leaf deepens the flavor profile by adding a fresh kick of mintFinally, the dish that I particularly savored in another one of.my omakase experiences was the “triple egg” sushi served at Tanoshi Sushi in NYC

This dish with Maine uni, salmon roe and quail egg neatly wrapped in nori delivered a sublime bite. As the yolk broke, it coated the soft uni, giving a savory texture that oozed into my taste buds. The salmon roe brightens the texture as it pops in your mouth as you chew. The omakase experience is truly rich in taste and adventure, which makes it worth every dollar. The last defining feature of omakase I find to be essential is aesthetics. While each dish is carefully constructed for taste, a lot of attention is paid to the look of the dish. Quoting from Business Insider, “to the untutored, a little ball of rice with a slice of raw fish on top may look like a simple affair”, but the chef standing behind the counter probably underwent 10 or more years of training to prepare the food you are eating. The Japanese have a traditional set of aesthetics that permeate every aspect of their culture: from architecture, to interior design, to most importantly, food. In many instances of Japanese cuisine, we see different representations of the basic 9 principles that underlie Japanese art. The 3 most common aesthetic ideals are wabi, the beauty in transience, very much like the fleeting blooming season of sakura (or cherry. blossom) flowers; sabi, the beauty of

aging and wearing like that of matted varnish on a bronze pot; and finally yugen, the beauty in profound grace and subtlety, how we are drawn to the interplay between shadow and light. This appreciation of elegance in simplicity and ephemeral beauty can be appreciated in the minimalistic sushi. You may have realized that in Japanese cuisine, the portion sizes are never overwhelming, always just right or even slightly inadequate. In omakase, each dish served usually comprises of just one or two nigiri pieces. Personally, I am accustomed to gobbling heaps of food on my plate. However, having experienced omakase has taught me to savor every bite (and breathe between them). With the changing of the dishes, you appreciate the transience of how tasty each individual dish is before being astounded by the next one.

scheduling an omakase meal is a highlight on my calendar, and I prime my meals such that I enter hungry and ready to savor each bite. While great omakase is expensive, the price reflects years of expertise and the best ingredients of the day. Omakase is not just a meal — it is a sublime cultural experience.

An omakase dining experience is not for the faint of heart or the picky eater. Although you are entrusting your meal to the chef, you must be respectful and eat everything that is served promptly, before the rice loses the warmth of the chef ’s hands. Moreover, better establishments often require prior booking to enjoy a meal.

But, personally,

Spicing up your

Staples article & photos by ben ross

I’m

going to ask you to do me a favor, do it for me, do it for you, do it for the love of god: stop eating boring food. Don’t get me wrong, I get it,I’ve been there. You’re busy, twenty-five hours a day, eight days a week, and now you have to go home and whip up something that fills you up, and doesn’t taste likecardboard, and most of the time, this ends up being some simple staple you’ve made a thousand times. I’m talking plain chicken breasts, rice, beans, a simple salad,

something that just does the job. But people, listen to me, you, yes I mean YOU, can do much better. So what can you do? We don’t all have the time or money to be buying chorizo, shellfish, and a myriad of spices, to whip up a decadent Paella on a Thursday night. But fear not! There is a whole world out there of sauces, spices, secret ingredients, and preparation techniques that can elevate these stimple staples from bland to buonissimo! 19

spices & sauces P

ossibly the easiest way to pump up a dish is to dress your food in a flavorful sauce or mix of spices. Sauces and spices allow you to expand the flavor profile of even the most basic foods simply and quickly, and also let you explore the flavors of variouscultures easily. A couple tips for getting the most out of this simple technique:

pro tips Don’t over-do it! You may think that unless you drown your dish in a dressing or sauce, you’re not going to taste it, but trust me, you’re missing out on so much flavor complexity. Take it easy, compliment the dish, don’t hide it. You can always add more! Don’t under-do it! On the same note, people are so often afraid to use spices to their full potential. While many stronger flavors require it, a “pinch” or a “dash” won’t always do! If you want to taste something in your food, make it present! Cook with your sauces/spices, don’t just break them out for the after-show. Rather than drizzling your sauces or peppering your spices on top of a finished dish, incorporate them from the beginning. This could mean marinating a piece of chicken before roasting it, adding spices to the water you cook your rice in, or cooking all of your veggies down in a pan full of sauce, so that it literally absorbs all of that goodness from the get-go!

Preparation Techniques Quick Recipes indian yogurt sauces Buy pastes or sauces, mix into greek yogurt, add any additional herbs and spices you want, mix well!

chimichurri Vinegar, salt, garlic, hot peppers, cilantro, parsley, oregano, olive oil

Pesto Basil, garlic, pine nuts or walnuts, black pepper, salt, parmesan or pecorino cheese

ften times, a dish has all the ingredients for deliciousness, but still lacks that kick. That kick can come in so many different forms depending on the type of food, but usually actsto balance or elevate a balance of flavors. This means making a dish a little saltier, a little more savory, a little more bitter or sour, or simply making the texture more complex! A couple tips for getting the most out of these secret ingredients:

pro tips Elevate, don’t replace! These ingredients are meant to give your food the kick that it needs, but not necessarily to steal the show. These ingredients usually pack a lot of punch in small portions, so use them sparingly! Opposites attract! This isn’t a foolproof technique, but often times, when looking for the kick your dish needs, take whatever flavor profile your dish currently has, and look at the other end of the spectrum! For example, sweetness can often compliment saltiness, and bitterness (such as citrus) can compliment savoriness, give it a try! 20

emember, the ingredients are your paint, and your dish is the canvas, so don’t be afraid to get creative! These ingredients can be combined in an infinite number of ways, and they don’t have to be eaten as is. Allow these ingredients to be the stars of a different show! What do I mean? Here are some examples:

a decadent salad

cajun spice Black pepper, cumin, paprika, cayenne, thyme

Herbs de provence Rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage, tarragon, marjoram

lemon pepper spice mix Lemon zest, ground black pepper, salt

vinaigrette

Jamaican jerk spice

Dijon mustard, garlic, red wine vinegar, black pepper and olive oil

Onion powder, salt, thyme, allspice, cinnamon, cayenne

Take your ingredients, hot or cold, and throw them over a bed of fresh veggies (some leafy greens, onions, shredded ca-rrots, bell peppers, tomatoes ... etc.). You’ll soon find yourself munching on a belly-filling, ultra-satisfying salad that challenges all your preconceptions of this notoriously dull dish.

A belly-filling omelette

Take your ingredients, chop them into small bite-sized pieces, season and cook in a pan. Remove ingredients from the pan, add your whisked eggs, and just before the eggs are fully cooked, add your ingredients back into the eggs. Fold over to encase, and enjoy!

Gourmet Tacos

Secret ingredients O

Quick Recipes

Take your ingredi -ents, heat & spice generously. Then warm several small tortillas, add fresh and cold shredded veggies, place the warm ingredients over them, and compliment with a sauce of your choice. Fold the filled tortilla in half, and enjoy!

Garlic

Royal Ramen

Add for a more savory profile, and to accentuate other flavors in the dish

carmelized onions Add for a more savory profile and softer texture

citrus Add in the form of lime, orange, or lemon, for a sharp flavor that will cut through a muted or over-savory dish

nuts and dried berries Add for small amounts of sweetness and large amounts of texture, particularly in salads, soups, and even with poultry

Don’t settle for the sameold ramen. Next time you find yourself cooking ramen, add your ingredients to the mix! Compliment the dish with a soft-boiled egg, and enjoy some restaurant-quality ramen!

A hearty burrito bowl

Take your ingredients, heat them in a pan, and mix with rice, beans, and some coarsely chopped fresh veggies. Mix well in a bowl and eat with tortilla chips!

A mediterranean chicken wrap

Take your ingredients, add hummus, fresh chipped veggies, olive oil, fresh ground pepper, and feta cheese. Wrap these all up and enjoy!

A savory stir fry

Take your ingredients, cook them in a large pan, add soy sauce, sesame oil, honey, onions/scallions, garlic, and ginger if poss -ible to the pan, cook down until the liquid in the pan becomes thick, and enjoy! 21

[Makes 12] DONUTS 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed 1/2 cup milk 1 large egg 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and browned 1/2 teaspoon almond extract GANACHE GLAZE ½ cup dark chocolate, chopped or chocolate chips (60-70% cacao) ¼ cup heavy cream

This recipe is adapted from Joy the Baker, but I’ve increased the richness by glazing them with dark chocolate ganache. Sprinkles are the go-to topping for these treats, but for an extra chocolate kick, sprinkle the glazed doughnuts with finely chopped cacao nibs. Preheat oven to 325°F and spray a doughnut pan with non-stick baking spray. You can also make these in mini muffin form, and the recipe will yield a greater number. In a large bowl, combine dry ingredients and whisk until blended. In a separate bowl, whisk the wet ingredients together until combined, then pour

into the dry ingredients. Stir well until completely combined, scraping down the sides to make sure everything is fully incorporated. Spoon batter into the tray, or use a piping bag, filling the molds about 2/3 full. Bake at 325°F for 11-13 minutes, until a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Cool completely before glazing. Prepare the ganache by heating the cream until simmering, either on the stove or in the microwave. Add the chopped chocolate and allow it to melt, about 5 minutes. Stir until completely smooth and avoid incorporating air. Stir in vanilla and corn syrup.

MINI BAKED DONUTS recipe and photos by rachel allison

MATCHA MADELEINES [Makes 18-20] INGREDIENTS 2 eggs 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 tsp almond extract 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup almond meal 1/4 tsp salt 1/4 tsp baking powder 1 tablespoon matcha powder 1/2 cup butter, melted

These madeleines are great with tea and coffee, and easy to share. The matcha adds a unique flavor and color, fitting perfectly into your fall palette. If you want to punch them up, dip the top half in melted white chocolate and sprinkle with more ground almonds. Preheat oven to 350°F and spray a madeleine pan with non-stick cooking spray. You can also make these in mini muffin form, and the recipe will yield greater number.

Beat egg, sugar and almond extract with a whisk. Combine flour, almond meal, salt, baking powder, and matcha powder, then add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredient and mix well. Stir in melted butter until completely mixed. Spoon batter into the prepared madeleine pan, filling the molds about 2/3 full. Bake at 350°F for 12-15 minutes, or until they are just starting to turn golden around the edges.

A shining yet subdued blend of gold and auburn colors reminiscent of autumn leaves begins to fill your glass. Tiny bubbles escape up into foam as it’s carefully poured. As you take your first sip, you feel a slight tickle on your tongue. A mixture of sweet and bitter aromas and flavors linger in your nose and mouth. It leaves you refreshed and wanting more. Reminiscent of a crisp fall day, drinking a cold glass of craft beer is a stimulating sensory experience worth every penny. Recently rising in popularity, craft brews have come to account for over 12 percent of market shares for the entire beer industry in the United States. Considering these craft breweries (or microbreweries) remain smaller in production size, it’s truly astonishing that these independently owned businesses continue to thrive in America’s third largest beverage industry, which is dominated by larger corporate conglomer24

ates. With a majority of Americans living within 10 miles of a craft brewer, more and more people are beginning to recognize the creative craftsmanship needed to make these distinctly innovative drafts. Often overlooked, the production, or brewing, of craft beer is a time and labor-intensive process that requires patience and a certain artistic touch to master. Beginning with a unique blend of grains (usually barley with sometimes wheat or rye), some breweries begin their beer crafting through a process of heating, drying, and cracking their grains in a practice known as malting. After isolating the enzymes naturally found in grains, the malted mixture goes through a sequence of processing called mashing, in which the grains are first steeped in hot water than crushed after the water is removed. Activating the previously released enzymes, mashing allows the grains to breakdown

while freeing their natural sugars. The resulting sticky, sweet syrup (better known as sweet wort) is the dough to the unmade beer’s bread. While being boiled for about an hour, perfectly portioned blends of hops and spices are added several times to the wort. Small, green fruits similar in shape to miniature pinecones, hops impart bitterness that balances the overwhelming sugar in the wort and lend the most flavor to the eventually produced brews. After being carefully cooled, strained, and filtered, the wort blend is then fermented with yeast. With the exact yeast strains varying between ales and lagers, the brews are stored at room temperature for several weeks for ales or held at colder temperatures for many weeks for lagers. During the process of fermentation, the yeast feeds on the sugar in the wort and produces carbon diox-

ide and alcohol as waste products lending beer its signature froth and flavor. During the varying aging process from six months to two years, brewers vigilantly check the residual sugar contents of each beer to ensure proper aging and fermentation. Once the desired levels are reached, the batches are ready to be bottled and distributed out for consumers near and far to enjoy. With microbreweries featuring a unique blend of grains, hops, and spices in each of their cleverly named drafts, the creative flavor combinations of craft beers are simply endless. Yet, buying craft beer is far from a one-dimensional, personally gratifying purchase. By trying a handcrafted draft, you experience firsthand the one-of-a-kind flavor profile that can only come from a brewer’s passion and commitment to beer while also supporting their livelihoods and the growing world of local craft breweries.

A R T I C L E B Y K R I S T E N Y I // P H O T O B Y C H R I S T I A N W A L S H

In the war-torn streets of Fallujah, Private John Doe scrambled for his M16 in a pile of rubble that was once his Humvee. Doe’s squad was tucked in behind a bullet-riddled tank and flinging lead towards the enemy, only scoring misses. Doe peaked over his cover, but huddled back, shell-shocked. “Oh dear, here we go again”, the Captain sighed as he reloaded his rifle, “I’m gonna go get him, on the count of three, gimme some covering fire!” Scenes such as these make us fall in love with war movies and anything military. However, the reality is that we won’t be so thrilled with what real soldiers had to go through; after all, the producers leave all the mundane aspects of military life on the cutting room floor. That’s why we know so little of how soldiers eat in the heat of battle. So, I’m here to answer the call of duty, shine the light on this less-than-mundane aspect of military life, and try out the current U.S. Army issue ration, the M.R.E., or Meals, Ready-to-Eat.

TASTE THE HISTORY Military rations have come a long way. Canning and dehydration have allowed soldiers to eat in the field without having to return to base for a hot meal. From WWII onwards, soldiers were issued the C-Ration, which consisted of canned crackers, canned beef or bacon, and coffee. There was virtually no variation in the entrée selection. Meals could be eaten straight from the cans or could be heated via the issued mess kits. The Model 1910 mess kit contained a handle that folds into a “bowl”, allowing the meals to be heated over open flame. The C-Ration, along with modern variants of the M1910 mess kits, remained in service until it was replaced by the MRE.

TASTE THE REVOLUTION The MRE is not merely an improved C-Ration; it has revolutionized how the military thinks of field cuisine. The MRE comes in single plastic bags, as opposed to the C-Rations’ individually issued components, and features 28 different entrée selections, as opposed to the C-Ration’s single option. It also comes with an additional side dish and an assortment of condiments, including a bottle of Tabasco sauce! But most importantly, soldiers are now not required to carry mess kits with them because they can eat all of the MRE components straight from the container and heat the meal via a specialized heating pouch. All components are disposable and all the tools required to prepare the ensemble (except water) are included in the package. The MRE is truly a one-stop-shop for field dining.

DIE-HARD “DELICACIES”: INSIDE THE M.R.E 26

by pichanon “nud” nantavaropas // photos by runde yan

UNPACKING THE M.R.E. 28

Don’t let the MRE’s minimalistic design fool you. The MRE, despite the fact that it is only 11 inch by 6 inch and weighs less than 2 pounds, is a very complete meal. The ensemble contains an entrée, a side dish, crackers, cereal, cheese spread, assorted condiments, wet wipes, a spoon, coffee, powdered juice, and a heating pack.

a summer at food network by julia deustch // photo by christian walsh Growing up in my house, there was a big assumption, if the TV was on so was the Food Network. I grew up idolizing Emerald Lagasse, pretending to cook like Rachael Ray, and fantasizing about being Ina Garten’s sous chef. I never could have dreamt that one day I would get the opportunity to work for the network that provided me with so many years of enjoyment; but, this past summer, I was a public relations intern for Food Network. The twelve weeks that I worked on the third floor of Chelsea Market in the New York City Food Network officeshowed me the inner workings of the television programs I was obsessed with and how each small job performed helped to create a successful network.

MOMENT OF TRUTH The MRE that I bought from eBay had waited for decades to be eaten before my photographer and I dug-in and tried it firsthand. We began by unboxing the entrée then slipping it inside the heating pouch and adding water to kick-start the heating process. The heating pouch was then folded and inserted into the entrée box. As we waited for the entrée to cook, we tried the side, which happened to be a traditional spiced apple. It did not disappoint. The chunky, semi-pureed apples and the cinnamon spiced syrup eaten with crackers was a Vitamin C supplement to look forward to. The cheese spread was next and sadly turned out to be an absolute disappointment. The cheese spread did not resemble cheese at all. It was supposed to be viscous so that it could be “spread”, but it ended up being a jelly-like substance. The taste was reminiscent of artificial cheddar flavoring with a bitter aftertaste and left me scratching my head saying, “perhaps the apple dish set the bar too high.” As for drinks, we tried the powdered juice, which happened to be grape flavored. The grape juice dissolved almost immediately at room temperature and, like the cheese spread, tasted very “artificial.” It was reminiscent of Kool-Aid but a good source of electrolytes. The cereal was particularly troubling because milk was not included 30

in the assembly. The cereal looked like Quaker’s Life brand cinnamon multi-grain cereal and tasted like it too. Rather than frosting, large grains of sugar were used to season the cereal and did little to sweeten the cereal as the grains often sunk to the bottom of the pack and dissolved poorly in cold water. By time we finished all the sides, we believed that the entrée was hot enough to try. On the package, the entrée was described as a serving of Jamaican style noodles and pork chop with added iron supplements. Since they were cut into one-inch sections, the noodles were easy to scoop. The entrée sauce resembled finely mashed potatoes that effectively concealed the mineral supplements. It was not only salty but also intensely flavorful. The pork chop, served as a large three-inch piece, was not as impressive. It was essentially a rehydrated piece of pork jerky and had a dry, fibrous texture. In all, the MRE was an enormous step-up from the C-Ration and the dorm room ramen previously eaten by U.S. soldiers. Although parts of it were disappointing to say the least, the MRE did offer a great insight into how soldiers eked a living on the battlefield. Perhaps other MRE entrees could be delicacies in their own rights, but you’ll have to try those for yourself.

My first day of work was almost a disaster. Even though I’m from a northern suburb of NYC and so getting down to Chelsea Market is a bit of a hassle, I didn’t care because I would be spending my summer at my dream job. That first day commuting I gave myself extra travel time as I wasn’t completely sure how to take the train to the subway and then how long my walk from the subway to the office would be. As I had to arrive by 9:30am, I took the 7:26 am train to make sure that I had more than an hour and a half to navigate my way to Food Network’s office. Once I arrived at Grand Central Station, the craziness began: time to learn how to use the subway. After asking a handful of people and a few policemen for directions, I finally found the right subway line and hopped on, feeling successful with the first leg of my commute. But anxiety quickly took over when the train I was on had mechanical problems and I was stuck underground for 40 minutes without cellphone service. I was frantic and in a full sweat; how could I be late for my first day working at the Food Network? After what

I WAS FRANTIC AND IN A FULL SWEAT; HOW COULD I BE LATE FOR MY FIRST DAY...?

seemed like an eternity, I was finally able to get off at my stop and being my ten minute walk to the market, while anxiously calling every number associated with Food Network to tell them that I would be a little late. I arrived at 9:50, only 20 minutes late. When I walked into the office, I completely forgot about my crazy adventure and how disheveled I looked from running through the streets of New York. My new surroundings looked like a version of Candyland, I felt like I had left reality and entered the TV. I couldn’t having been more thrilled when I was offered this summer internship; I fantasized about all the things I might see and do, like helping my favorite food network stars with public relation concerns. But my fantasies and my reality ended up being quite different. Before I even had time to think, I was immediately thrown into daily tasks that consisted of scanning all sources of social media and print sources to find any mention of the Food Network, collecting photos suitable for advertising and writing episode summaries. Although I wasn’t doing the glamorous tasks from my daydreams, I quickly became a part of a large yet integrated network that was all moving towards the same goal: to create the most successful Food Network possible. Although I initially felt as if the jobs I was doing were on a very small scale, as the weeks passed, I grew to feel that I was needed in the office and had a purpose within the Network. I visited show sets, test tried food from the kitchen and helped throw office parties. I was a member of the team; I was a piece of a puzzle where every piece is necessary keep the company running smoothly. I didn’t realize how substantial a summer intern’s role could be until one of the Food Network’s most valuable stars, Bobby Flay, tapped me on the back. It was around 3:00 pm on a Monday and everyone on my team was in their weekly meeting. It was a quiet day and I was just finishing up an assignment when a man tapped me on the back, saying, “Excuse me.” I turned around and was immediately star struck. There I was, an intern, talking to a man who was the face of the Food Network - how could that be possible? After introducing ourselves to each other, he started to ask me questions. He didn’t care that he was talking to a PR intern who had only worked at the Network for a short time, or that he had one of the highest positions in the company and I had one of the lowest. At that moment, we were part of the same team working together. 31

These bars are a great way to pack a lot of flavors together and use up last bits of baking supplies you have on hand. They are reminiscent of s’mores, but you can substitute other types of baking chips (I recommend peanut butter or toffee!) or even chopped dried fruit to change things up. If you don’t have caramel sauce, try a chocolate sauce, or you omit the sauce all together. Preheat oven to 350°F and line an 8”x8” baking pan with parchment paper. Combine melted butter, brown sugar, salt and vanilla in a medium bowl and stir until combined. Mix in graham crumbs, stirring to moisten the crumbs. Add flour and cinnamon, stirring until completely mixed. Spread crust in prepared pan and bake at 350°F for about 15-20 minutes then remove from the oven. Reduce oven temperature to 250°F. Sprinkle about ½ c. of chocolate chips (any mix) and drizzle the caramel sauce over the warm crust. Then, spread all the marshmallows and the remaining toppings and chocolate chips over the crust. Bake at 250°F for 10-15 minutes, until marshmallows are puffed up.

GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1 cup graham crumbs 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 cup brown sugar dash cinnamon

recipes by ethyn leong

TOPPING 2 cups mini marshmallows 1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips 1/4 cup white chocolate chips 1/4 dark chocolate chips 1/4 cup mini pretzels 1/4 cup caramel sauce 1/4-1/2 cup chopped nuts (I used candied almonds) [Makes 25 mini-bars]

asian sautéed brussel sprouts ingredients brussel sprouts, divided 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tbsp olive oil ¼ onion, sliced ½ tsp soy sauce

1 tsp ﬁsh sauce 1 tsp mirin 1 tsp chili oil 1 tsp honey

directions 1. 2. 3. 4.

recipe and photo by rachel allison

5. 6. 7.

// photo by ben ross

Preheat oven to 325°F. Cut end off all brussel sprouts. Quarter half of them, shave the other half. Heat olive oil over medium high in an oven safe sauté pan. Add garlic. When garlic is lightly golden, add brussel sprouts. Sauté for 3 minutes, folding occasionally. Transfer pan to oven for 5 minutes. In a small bowl, combine soy sauce, fish sauce, mirin, chili oil, and honey. Once finished cooking, add brussel sprouts into a large bowl. Mix in raw onions and soy sauce mixture

apple-stuffed meatballs ingredients 1 lb ground pork 1 tbsp butter 1 tsp salt 2 tsp pepper

½ apple 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp thyme 1 tsp rosemary

directions 1. 2. 3.

spam musabi 4. ingredients 1 can spam ¼ cup soy sauce 1/4 cup mirin ¼ cup brown sugar 1 tsp honey

1 tsp ginger – minced 2 cups cooked rice 1 tbsp rice vinegar 4 nori sheets – cut into 1” strips

5. 6. 7. 8.

directions 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

ingredients 4 cups chicken stock 1 cup mushrooms, quartered 1 cup cherry tomatoes, sliced into rounds 1 cup arborio rice 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 garlic clove, minced ¼ cup cooking wine 3 tbsp butter, cut into pads 1 tbsp cream cheese ½ cup shredded parmesan 1 tbsp black pepper 2 tsp cumin ½ tsp coriander, ground ½ tsp allspice, ground 34

Cut spam into 0.25” slabs. Quarter these. Combine soy sauce, mirin, brown sugar, and ginger in a bowl and mix until sugar is dissolved. Place spam pieces in a plastic bag and pour soy sauce mixture over. Let marinate for 4 hours or overnight. Fold rice vinegar into cooked rice and let come to room temperature. Remove strain spam from marinade. Sear spam in a skillet over medium high heat for 1 minute on each side. Let cool to room temperature before handling. Scoop 1 ½ Tbsp of rice into your palm and shape into sushi bases the width and length of the spam pieces. (*Wet hands to help prevent rice from sticking.) Place one spam slice onto each molded base. Wrap each with one nori strip (similar to nigiri).

directions 1.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Dice apple into 0.5cm cubes. Sautee apple in butter in a skillet over medium heat for 3 minutes, or until apples begin to soften. Remove from heat and set aside. In a medium bowl, combine pork, salt, pepper, garlic, thyme, and rosemary. Separate pork into 2 Tbsp balls. Flatten each ball to 1/8” thickness. Scoop 2 tsp cooked apples into the center of each flattened disk and fold edges up to reform ball. Heat each ball in olive oil over medium heat for 1 minute per side. Transfer to oven for 5 minutes to finish cooking.

mushroom and tomato risotto

Bring chicken stock to a simmer in a small saucepan. Keep lid on to prevent too much water loss. 2. Heat 1 Tbsp butter in a skillet over medium heat. Sauté mushrooms and tomatoes for 3 minutes. 3. Remove vegetables from skillet and set aside. 4. In the same skillet, brown garlic in vegetable oil over medium low heat. 5. Add rice, and cook until grains absorb all the oil, stirring constantly. 6. Reduce heat to low and add wine to skillet, cooking until all liquid is absorbed. 7. Add one ladle of warm stock to the rice and cook until all liquid is absorbed, stirrng constantly. Repeat until all stock is used up. 8. Transfer rice to a large bowl. 9. Fold butter and cheese into the rice until it has melted and is evenly distributed throughout. 10. Mix in vegetables, black pepper, cumin, coriander, and allspice. 11. Add salt to taste.