Page 1

YO U R E SS E N TI A L GU I D E TO T H E N E W S E A SO N

RU N WAY

SPRING SUMMER 2 018 C RE ATIVEHE ADM AG.COM

01_Runway_Covers_GW4.indd 1

22/01/2018 11:39


Heat-activated Setting Spray

574

23

bottles of PLI were used at the 2017 fashion week shows

Number of L’Oréal Professionnel fashion week shows PLI was used at last year


Discover PLI by

PLI is my all-time favourite multi tasker, one of the products that I could not live without, it perfectly prepares the hair for pretty much any look that I need to create, my absolute desert island product.

PLI is the perfect foundation product to build any style. Its versatility allows me to continually create new looks. Stephen Low, Neville Hair & Beauty

Adam Reed, Percy & Reed

*

Follow us backstage @lorealpro #lorealprouk

* Pli is our number 1 product to use in our range of backstage styling products.


C O N T E N T S S P R I N G/S UM M E R 2 018 06

TOP FIVE MOMENTS What really caught our eye this season

14 T H AT WAS T H E S E ASO N The return of the Supers and a power dressing comeback

16 TRENDS Low-slung ponies, high octane gloss and laid-back locks

22 HOW HAIR HAPPENS Behind the scenes with A-list session stylists at Daks, Erdem and Topshop Unique

34 GE T FROM HERE... TO HERE! We go on a session journey to the top with two salon stylists

36 THIS CHARMING MAN

38 POWER OF THE FLOWER It’s all about adornments for Guido and Dolce & Gabbana

44 B L A N C S PAC E Behind the scenes at the Central Saint Martins White Show

48 SUGAR AND SPICE Josh Wood fuses prettiness and teen angst at Alexander Wang

4

Cover image Topshop Unique, hair by Duffy for L’Oréal Professionnel

Why designer Harry Evans is the next big thing at London Fashion Week

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

004 Contents_GW1.indd 1

22/01/2018 13:00


EDITOR’S LET TER DEAREST RUNWAY READERS, It’s my first time at the helm of your biannual backstage (and FROW) bible, which makes me especially excited to welcome you to a new issue and an exciting new season. And what a season S/S18 has been! We’ve seen fashion history created at shows such as Versace ( flick to ‘That Was the Season’ on page 14 to say hello again to the band of Supers!), not to mention a whole legion of seminal styling and cutting-edge cuts. What else do we have in store? Well, there’s our much-loved regulars Top Five shows (page 6), Trends (page 16) and seeing the magic happen backstage in Re:Create (page 30), we’ve also caught up with our favourite fashion week heroes for an insight into their rarified worlds. On page 38, Redken global creative director Guido throws light on hair adornment, while Redken global color creative director, Josh Wood, talks us through that Rose Quartz colour he created at Alexander Wang, which had the beauty industry buzzing, on page 48. Of course, we love to celebrate the big guys, but we’re also committed to championing emerging talent, too. Case in point, our inspirational interview with hot young designer Harry Evans on page 36, who made his show debut under his own name at Fashion East, and we tracked two hairdressers on their journey from their salons to working Fashion Week, on page 34. Will it inspire you to make the jump? I hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as I’ve enjoyed working on it. Now go forth and create hair history!

CASSIE STEER RUNWAY GUEST EDITOR Editor in Chief: Amanda Nottage Art: Graeme White Chief Sub Editor: Adam Wood Contributors: Beth Davie, Anna Samson Publisher: Catherine Handcock WRITE TO US AT RUNWAY, 21 THE TIMBERYARD, DRYSDALE STREET, LONDON N1 6ND T: 020 7324 7540 E: enquiries@alfol.co.uk Runway is a supplement of Creative HEAD, published twice a year by ALFOL Ltd. All rights reserved. CreativeHEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at the time of going to press

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

005 Editors Letter_GW1.indd 1

5

19/01/2018 15:18


TOP FIVE MOMENTS IN HAIR & FASHION T H E Y ’ R E T H E H E A D L I N E AC T S S O FA B U LO U S W E H A D TO G I V E TH EM A B I G H I G H FI V E . H E RE A RE TH E TO P S H OWS , AS C H OS E N BY C A SS I E S T E E R

06

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

06-11_Top 5_GW2.indd 1

22/01/2018 13:39


R U N WAY TO P F I V E

Image courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

PARTY ALL THE TIME TOPSHOP UNIQUE

TOPSHOP ISN’T your shy, retiring kinda of show. There are certain expectations. And from the star-studded FROW (think Olivia Palermo and Charli XCX) to the stellar casting on the runway (model du jour Adwoa Aboah opened the show with supers Jourdan Dunn and Hailey Baldwin hot on her heels), it didn’t disappoint. This season, the brand paid homage to the great London nightclubs of the ’90s, such as the legendary Madame JoJo’s in Soho, complete with neon signs. Hedonistic, upbeat and sexy, a party atmosphere prevailed both on and off the catwalk. Over on hair, super-stylist Duffy for L’Oréal Professionnel kept to the after-hours theme with ‘lazy, slightly sweaty waves’ that referenced the sexy sideswept styles of classic Versace campaigns, before blasting dry and pulling the hair across the face in a masculine side parting. Get the party started.

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

06-11_Top 5_GW2.indd 2

07

22/01/2018 13:40


IT’S THE SLOT on the LFW schedule that serious fashionistas pay attention to. For S/S18, the designer came over all royalist with an ode to the Queen – to be precise, a 32-year-old royal highness re-imagined in the style of Harlem’s Cotton Club in the ’50s. “I wanted to play with the idea of what would have happened if the Queen went to New York and Dorothy Dandridge had ended up in Buckingham Palace,” mused designer Erdem Moralioglu, having spent his summer at Windsor Castle working through the Queen’s wardrobe. The collection was a mix of ’50s-style opera coats, satin dresses, tweed trouser suits and sexy pencil skirts, all with a quirky, ‘naughty’ twist. Offbeat was the name of the game backstage too, where Anthony Turner’s ‘kooky hair’, using L’Oréal Professionnel, was styled to look as though the queen had been up dancing all night. Fit for royalty, we say.

08

Image courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

CROWNING GLORY ERDEM

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

06-11_Top 5_GW2.indd 3

22/01/2018 13:40


R U N WAY TO P F I V E

Photography: James Cochrane

Image courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

POWER PACK VERSACE

IT WAS THE SHOW that broke the internet this season, and for once that had nothing to do with any of the Kardashians in the house. Marking the 20th anniversary of her brother’s tragic death, Donatella decided to use her S/S18 collection as a commemoration of “a genius… an icon… my brother”. The fash pack brought its A-game to celebrate the sassy high-waisted jeans, leggings and shoulder pads emblazoned with Gianni’s classic Versace prints. But it was the ‘Big Five’ that brought the show to its glittering finale with Carla, Claudia, Cindy, Naomi and Helena strutting their stuff to George Michael’s Freedom ‘90. As a perfect compliment to all that fabulousness, Guido decided to make the hair a little less inyour-face and settled on a shiny blow-dry with a hint of volume, “a modern idea of glamour”, he explained backstage. Sashay! Shantay!

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

06-11_Top 5_GW2.indd 4

09

22/01/2018 13:40


DUBBED ‘E1027’ after modernist architect Eileen Gray’s Villa E-1027 in the south of France, Choi’s tenth collection was a construction of clean-cut tailoring with a monochrome palette in keeping with his contemporary aesthetic. If you’re a fan of the pin-stripe, this was the show for you. From one-shoulder dresses to summery trouser suits, they were paraded down the runways in all manner of guises. Add in a dash of nautical collars, sunny blue tartans and a rather fabulous fuchsia power suit, and you have the recipe for a fresh, palatable take on Riviera style. ‘Soft, cool and modern’ was also Stephen Low’s brief for hair, which he interpreted as a low-key pony. Prepping with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Pli, he blasted hair dry, gathering it at the occipital bone before dusting the ends with Tecni.ART Super Dust for a ‘raw’ finish. A grand design indeed.

10

Image courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

DESIGN FOR LIFE EUDON CHOI

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

06-11_Top 5_GW2.indd 5

22/01/2018 13:40


R U N WAY TO P F I V E

Photography by James Cochrane

Image courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

WE CAN BE HEROES PRADA

COMIC BOOKS and fashion aren’t the most natural bedfellows, but when sartorial genius Miuccia Prada is involved you can bet the result will be Marvel-lous. Inspired by comic book heroines – “from good ones to bad ones, the beautiful and not-so-beautiful” – the collection took on a similarly eclectic feel, mixing decades and tribes. From ’80s-inspired, oversized blazers and punky T-shirts to rockabilly dresses and comic book printed coats and shirts, each look had a slightly boyish feel to it, ramping up Miuccia’s notion of ‘feminine strength’. Tomboys were also in force backstage, with Guido’s masculine ponytails complete with sideburns. “We were looking at animation, how it shows wispy and shorter pieces around the ear. It should feel boyish and the cut around the ears instantly gives hair a tomboy quality,” he explained. Kapow!

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

06-11_Top 5_GW2.indd 6

11

22/01/2018 13:40


PERFECT PARTNERS R E D K E N S H A D E S E Q I S T H E I T L I S T C O L O U R Y O U N E E D T O C R E AT E T H E L AT E S T A  L I S T T E C H N I Q U E S Y O U R C L I E N T S A R E A S K I N G F O R Consumer awareness of professional techniques is bigger than ever in 2018. Techniques that can only be done in the hands of It-list colourists are the game-changer for our industry. Combine with Redken Shades EQ – a formula that can never be bought in a box – and you have the recipe for truly A-list colour results. Join the revolution as Redken gets ready to Shade the Nation!

THE NEW SHADES Expect more from your colour and elevate your colour technique with Shades EQ. It’s a favourite among top colourists for its even results without compromise and colour flexibility, enabling colourists to personalise colour to each client. Hair is left with an incredible glossy shine that’s unlike anything in the market. Now Redken brings all this in new trending shades…

POWE R PA STE L S Redken has launched four make-up-inspired shades to create stylish pastel hues. Choose from Pastel Pink, Pastel Peach, Aqua Blue and Silver Green.

S I LV E R S TAT E M E N T S Shades EQ has a range of eight silver, chrome and titanium shades that allow you to personalise natural grey hair and let clients unleash their #SilverHair.

NOW DISCOVER THE L ATEST T R E N DS YO U C A N C R E AT E WITH SHADES EQ  THE PE RFEC T PARTN E R FOR EVERY TECHNIQUE ... TO BE PART OF A NEX T GENER ATION COLOUR HOUSE, CALL REDKEN ON 020 8762 4623 FOR A BESPOKE DEMONSTR ATION REDKEN.CO.UK

12

@REDKEN

REDKENUK

REDKENUKI

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

012-013_Redken_Promo_GW2.indd 1

22/01/2018 10:31


R U N WAY A D V E R TO R I A L

PEACH BELLINI

featuring @ninaagdal

GL AC IE R FILTE R

Using Shades EQ Aqua Blue

COTTON C A N DY

By @bonneyclaire Radio London Pastel placement using Shades EQ Pastel Pink + Pastel Peach

THE TECHNIQUES BL ACK PEARL ROOT SMUDGE

By @melaniesmithcolour Josh Wood Colour using Shades EQ Silver Green

FADE TO GREY

By @adambrowneuk George Northwood Root stretch using Shades EQ 07T + 08T + Crystal Clear

FROST GLOSS Using Shades EQ 07T + 08T

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

012-013_Redken_Promo_GW2.indd 2

13

22/01/2018 10:32


THAT WAS THE SEASON… SUPER HEROES

FINAL FANTASY

Versace

Photography by James Cochrane

F R O M T H E R E V I VA L O F T H E S U P E R S TO B I G A N D B O L D AC C E S S O R I E S , C A S S I E S T E E R S E L E C T S H E R M O M E N T S T H A T M A T T E R F R O M S/S18

Jack Irving

THEY WERE THE models that broke the mould of previous clothes horses and demanded $10,000 for the privilege of getting out of bed. They also stole the show at Versace’s rapturous ode to designer Donatella’s late brother Gianni, showing their younger counterparts how it’s done. Carla, Claudia, Naomi, Cindy and Helena – we salute you.

A FAN OF Blue Planet II? Then settle in for Jack Irving’s On|Off creations, famously worn by Lady Gaga. It was a fantastical story of structures akin to sea urchins and venus flytraps seen through the lens of a visiting alien. Wallflowers need not apply…

14

Luke Anthony Rooney

MAXIMUM FRILLS OTT RUFFLES were firmly on the catwalk agenda this season, swamping silhouettes in swathes of fabulous fabric, just like this ruffled wonder at Éthologie by Jasper Garvida. Don’t give frills the cold shoulder…

Éthologie

THE FUTURE WAS looking bright over on make-up as bold pigments of every hue were smeared across the lids of models in all four fashion capitals (precision has no place in this trend – check out Luke Anthony Rooney at On|Off for proof, where swipes where anywhere but lids). When it comes to wearing colour this summer, the eyes have it.

Harry Evans

Harry Evans

SWIPE BRIGHT

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

014-015_That Was The Season_GW3.indd 3

24/01/2018 15:48


R U N WAY T H AT WA S T H E S E A S O N

COOL AND THE GANG

NO BLURRED LINES Caplanentwisle

TOPSHOP UNIQUE has become the show to elbow your way into – like a cooler, younger sister of Victoria’s Secret, it’s the girl EVERYONE wants to be friends with. And it showed in the staging, with acres of neon to help pay tribute to the legendary Madame JoJo’s of Soho. Can we be in your gang?

WHETHER you’re Team Alexis or Team Krystle, channel your inner Dynasty diva and embrace ’80s power threads, as seen at Zeynep Kartal. Just remember, remove any earrings before starting a fight.

Topshop Unique

POWER DRESSING

Zeynep Kartal

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel and Redken

IF YOU’RE ONE for the straight and narrow, check out the colourful stripes at Caplanentwisle at On|Off, both in long line knits, and on T-shirt sleeves. You’ll be staying on the right lines…

Harry Evans

Éthologie

Topshop Unique

LISTEN UP. Go big or go home was the mantra when it came to ear attire, proving that when making a statement it’s all in the detail. Our favourite? The OTT chandeliers at Topshop Unique, for shoulder-grazing attention.

Erdem

EAR C A N DY

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

014-015_That Was The Season_GW3.indd 4

15

24/01/2018 15:49


Erdem

THE TRENDS FROM H I S H I N E TO E Q U I N E , T H E Y ’R E T H E LO O KS T H AT WO R K J U S T A S W E L L O F F T H E C AT WA L KS A S O N . C A S S I E S T E E R R E P O R T S ... 16

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

016-019_Trends_GW3.indd 5

24/01/2018 15:51


HAIR: Stephen Low from Neville Hair & Beauty for L’Oréal Professionnel THE LOOK: Soft, cool and modern HOW: The hair was prepped with Tecni.ART Pli at the roots and blasted dry before a small tong was used around the hairline to encourage gentle movement and texture. Hair was gathered into a ponytail at the occipital bone, leaving the elastic

Prada

Loewe

GET THE LOOK EUDON CHOI S/S18

Miu Miu

Erdem

THE FIRST RULE of pony club: go low or go home – as anything above the occipital bone means instant disqualification, if the catwalks were anything to go by. Clean and simple was the order of the day at the majority of shows, with some individual nuances thrown in to lend a bit of character. At Miu Miu, Guido added a black elastic headband and teased the crown in a nod to the mod; “I’ve blown all the girls’ hairlines out and pulled their hair up into a ponytail,” he explained backstage. “It’s really a ’90s take on the ’60s with a clean ponytail and a teased crown for added height.” Meanwhile, over at Sacai, he made a simple ‘wash and go’ pony; folded under itself to show off the clothes as well as employing a little Redken Wind Blown 05 to texturise and add hold. Over at Erdem, Anthony Turner drenched the hair in L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Full Volume Extra Mousse before drying and tonging into ‘40s-style twists, while Neville’s Stephen Low for L’Oréal Professionnel kept things super-simple at Eudon Choi for his ‘effortless’ down-dos. An exception to the low pony rule, but fabulous enough to warrant a mention, was the Ariana Grande-inspired ponytail at Paul Costelloe by Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas, achieved with lashings of hairspray then dried in for a super-smooth finish. Tally-ho!

Paul Costelloe

PONY CLUB

Sacai

Eudon Choi

R U N WAY T R E N D S

exposed for a modern nod. The roots and lengths of the ponytail were dusted with Tecni.ART Super Dust for a raw finish, juxtaposed with sides that were pulled and pinned tight. Infinium was misted for barely-there hold. Getting the balance right between care-free and effortless, and messy and no effort, is a fine line – it’s all about purposeful texture. Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

016-019_Trends_GW3.indd 6

17

24/01/2018 16:58


HAIR: Jonny Engstrom from Guy Kremer for L’Oréal Professionnel THE LOOK: Romantic warriors HOW: Tecni.ART Pli was used to prep and blow-dry the hair for smoothness and control, working with a low side-parting. Hair was split into three sections: at the back secured in a tight low ponytail, with two sections at the front left loose. More clips were 18

Ralph Lauren

Alexander McQueen

GET THE LOOK HAIZHEN WANG

Versace

Malan Breton

Jack Irving

Daks

THE GLOSSY POSSE were out in force as high-octane shine took centre stage. Putting the sparkle emoji through its paces across all four fashion capitals, the look centered on perfectly polished cuticles that screamed ‘luxury’ with healthy hair as the starting point throughout. The secret behind shiny, happy hair? Hair care as the new styling tool. At both Ralph Lauren and Tory Burch for example, Guido prepped the models’ locks with Redken’s Diamond Oil Glow Dry Gloss Shampoo and Conditioner to infuse the hair with goodness, adding amla and coriander oils for a high-shine finish. “The hair this season is a super-chic blow-out,” said Guido at Ralph Lauren. “I’m prepping with a glossing shampoo and conditioner before using a boarbristled brush to blow the hair out to keep it super healthy, shiny and clean.” Meanwhile, Daks was delivering high-wattage wonderment thanks to Stephen Low for L’Oréal Professionnel. Over at Jack Irving’s On|Off show, The Boutique Atelier’s Richard Phillipart for L’Oréal Professionnel was lending stratospheric shine to his super-slick, Marcel wave up-do. Slightly more down to earth but equally stellar were the luxe waves at Malan Breton, where Toni&Guy international artistic director, Philip Haus, spritzed shine mist onto a grooming brush for extra lustre. And to ramp up the pass-me-my-shades mega-watt shine a notch further? Add a dash of L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Colour Glow as a finishing touch to any glossy ’do.

Daks

GLOSS & GO

placed just below the eye, removed minutes before the show for a subtle indent. Tecni.ART Density Material was worked through the hair from roots to the top of the ear for a glossy, almost wet-look sheen while mid-lengths and ends were kept natural, achieving an effective dual texture. A light mist of Infinium hair spray was spritzed for light hold.

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

016-019_Trends_GW3.indd 7

24/01/2018 16:58


R U N WAY T R E N D S

HAIR: Guido for Redken THE LOOK: Natural hair, emphasising the models’ individual hair textures HOW: Hair was by washed with Redken Diamond Oil Glow Dry Gloss Shampoo and Diamond Oil Glow Dry Detangling Conditioner. A coin-sized amount of Redken No Blow Dry Cream was applied to crown and throughout

Givenchy

Zeynep Kartal

Topshop Unique

House of Holland Victoria Beckham

GET THE LOOK VALENTINO

BACKSTAGE WAS uncharacteristically relaxed this season. Not because the stylists were resting on their laurels (‘natural’ hair still takes a fair amount of work, don’t you know) but because laid-back locks were the order of the day. By far the most prolific trend on the catwalks was ‘just-woke-up-likethis’ texture and the pro behind the looks at Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang and Valentino shared his secret with us. “It’s about emphasizing each model’s individual texture,” said Guido backstage at Valentino. “To do that I’ve applied a little of Redken’s No Blow Dry Cream when the hair is damp.” At Givenchy, Guido reached for a curling iron on some of the models to add additional texture. “I’ve done a side-part on the models and spritzed Redken Wax Blast 10 to add an age to it, so it looks more like second day, clung-together, sexy, bedhead hair,” he explained. ‘No-Blow’ is a look that provides the perfect base for any effortless style you choose to create, such as the romantic half up/half down ’do by Matthew Curtis for L’Oréal Professionnel at Zeynep Kartal, or the soft twists at Daks, which Stephen Low prepped using L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Beach Waves, while still keeping the end results super-shiny. Pushing the trend to the extreme were the big, beachy waves by Cos Sakkas of Toni&Guy at House of Holland, which looked as though models had come straight out of surf school. Go on, take it easy.

Alexander Wang

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken and Toni&Guy

House of Holland

NO BLOW

lengths to define texture. A natural middle parting was created and the hair was allowed hair to air dry. The top of the hair was softly blow-dried the to smooth it out. If needed, additional texture was added into lengths with a 1.5-inch curling iron to create an easy, natural wave. Hair was finished with Redken Fashion Work 12 to smooth any flyaways around the hairline. Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

016-019_Trends_GW3.indd 8

19

24/01/2018 17:02


Erdem

NO SUCH THING AS TOO MUCH F O R S/S18 , M O R E I S M O R E . U P O R D O W N , H A I R I S P R I M P E D A N D P L U M P E D , W H I C H I S W H Y T H E M O D E R N  D AY M U S E N E E D S A M O D E R N  D AY M O U S S E : I N T R O D U C I N G T E C N I . A R T R E B E L P U S H  U P B Y L’ O R É A L P R O F E S S I O N N E L

IS THE MOUSSE COMEBACK UPON US?

Didn’t it disappear along with shoulder pads and acid-washed jeans? It seems the hiatus is over and a comeback is in full force! It complements the other great revival this season – the return of the perm – people are looking for products to give their hair that added oomph, but with a more natural texture result. Featuring new technology, Rebel Push-Up is L’Oréal Professionnel’s first-ever texturising powder-in mousse. This innovative take on the mousse provides that desirable plumped volume but with an undone texture. It has all the softness and manageability of a mousse, but with the texture and durability of a powder. It’s also incredibly easy to distribute through the hair to get a lightweight support layer for achieving long-lasting volume or as a base for an up-do.

20

Rebel Push-Up joins the popular extreme volume powder spray, Savage Panache, within the Wild Stylers 60’s Babe Tecni.ART family and kick-starts a year of celebration of artistry as Tecni.ART turns 25. When Tecni.ART began, it set out to offer styling products that would stimulate stylists’ creativity by giving them innovative and easy-to-use formulas. This is where the name Tecni.ART came from – technology meets artistry. Tecni.ART is now considered an essential range for creating any look, particularly at Fashion Week when high-performance products are required. Tecni.ART can be seen backstage at all the top Fashion Week shows, providing the base and support required to create every kind of look from sleek and matte to voluminous and high shine.

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

020-021_LOreal_Promo_GW5.indd 1

19/01/2018 16:08


Stephen Low, Neville Hair & Beauty “Rebel Push-Up is a modern-day mousse equivalent. Its texture gives additional control to help achieve most looks, making it the must-have accessory for any session kit. I use it backstage at Haute Couture and Fashion Week to prep and style for a clean finish without residue”

Topshop Unique

Éthologie

Topshop Unique

R U N WAY A D V E R TO R I A L

Adam Reed, Percy & Reed “Rebel Push-Up is an essential foundation base for any session styling kit. It is soft and light, while the powder additive gives a more natural mousse texture to the hair – think of it as the Aero chocolate of the mousse world. Perfect for creating classic looks to modern, textured styles”

GET TECNI. ART IN YOUR SALON TODAY. CALL 0800 0304034 OR VISIT LOREALPROFESSIONNEL .CO.UK AND FOLLOW @LOREALPRO #LOREALPROUK ON INSTAGR AM AND T WIT TER Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

020-021_LOreal_Promo_GW5.indd 2

21

19/01/2018 16:08


HOW HAIR HAPPENS H E A D B AC KS TAG E W I T H T H R E E O F T H E G LO B E’S P R E M I E R S T Y L I S TS A N D S E E T H E M S H A P E F U T U R E T R E N D S F O R T H E S/S18 S E A S O N

To create a slightly gritty texture, Duffy prepped the hair with a combination of L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli and Wild Stylers Beach Waves before blasting it dry.

Hair was combed into a deep side-parting and the bottom half was smoothed against the head using L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium Hairspray.

THE SHOW TOPSHOP UNIQUE THE LEAD DUFFY FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

22

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

024-027_How Hair Happens_GW2.indd 1

24/01/2018 10:03


R U N WAY H O W H A I R H A P P E N S

The bottom half of the hair was then pulled into a tight ponytail and secured with elastic to remove weight, in contrast with the opposite side.

L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil was a hero product at the show – Duffy smoothed it through the lengths to create shine and a slightly sweaty finish for these party girls.

With one slick and one wavy side, this Versace-inspired look is perfect to show off the sparkling earrings that glittered on the catwalk.

Using a one-inch curling iron, hair was tonged to create loose waves – each section was curled in a different direction to maintain a perfectly imperfect look.

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

024-027_How Hair Happens_GW2.indd 2

23

19/01/2018 16:18


THE SHOW ERDEM THE LEAD ANTHONY TURNER FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

The foundation for this season’s Erdem show was built using a combination of L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli and Tecni. ART Full Volume Extra Mousse to create strength and hold.

Anthony Turner and his team sectioned off a triangular piece at the front of the hair, and pulled the rest into a ponytail to be tightly tonged.

The front section was back-combed and rolled under, creating an asymmetric faux-fringe. The bobby pin holding it was left exposed for a DIY feel.

24

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

024-027_How Hair Happens_GW2.indd 3

19/01/2018 16:18


R U N WAY H O W H A I R H A P P E N S

L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium Hairspray and water was misted over the hair to hold everything in place and provide a dewy finish.

Wisps of hair were left free, as if models had been out dancing. Anthony described the look as being inspired by the ultimate night out – “the Queen dancing in a Harlem jazz club”.

The black bows matched the winged eyeliner created by beauty legend Val Garland, and paired with glitzy earrings fit for HM herself.

The ponytail was topped with a beautiful black bow, which was placed at the nape of the neck. The curls in the ponies were left rolled and unbrushed, for a vintage feel.

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

024-027_How Hair Happens_GW2.indd 4

25

24/01/2018 11:18


THE SHOW DAKS THE LEAD STEPHEN LOW FROM NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Stray hairs were allowed to fall out of the twists and frame models’ faces, while L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium hairspray was misted over to finish the look.

Filippo Scuffi, creative director at DAKS, allocated one of two looks – either up or down – to each model. For the first, Stephen Low (pictured above) and his team prepped hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Liss Control, dried it off and twisted it into a high bun.

26

Each bun was secured using three or four bobby pins. They had an undone feel, as if the models had put their hair up themselves.

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

024-027_How Hair Happens_GW2.indd 5

24/01/2018 10:02


R U N WAY H O W H A I R H A P P E N S

The look was set with a blast of cold air from the hairdryer. With a centre-parting and luxurious waves, these fresh-faced models are pretty as a picture.

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

For the second style, a gritty, worn-in texture was created with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Wild Stylers Beach Waves and a rough blow-dry.

Large sections of hair were loosely wrapped around a medium barrel tong. Hair was then left to set in a chignon and released before the girls took to the catwalk.

The dandyish tailoring and candy cane stripes set the tone perfectly for a catwalk show that celebrated English eccentricity.

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

024-027_How Hair Happens_GW2.indd 6

27

19/01/2018 16:19


RE:CREATE SM ALL BUT MIGHT Y, THESE ARE THE MICRO TRENDS TO START CHANNELING RIGHT NOW, AS SELEC TED BY C ASSIE STE E R

MAN! I FEEL LIKE A WOMAN had to be the backstage soundtrack of S/S18 if some of the androgynous ’dos we were anything to go by. Grooming techniques were at the forefront when it came to haircuts, and we spied several styles which wouldn’t go amiss in a barber shop. Take Guido’s gamine, Mia Farrow-inspired crop at Calvin Klein. “The chunky pieces cut through the front instantly gave each girl a tomboy quality,” he says. Nothing wrong with a bit of gender blending…

STRICT MACHINE

Calvin Klein

Bottega Veneta

Alexander Wang

BOY BO BS

GET A GRIP

Xiao Li

IT’S TIME TO take control and whip those partings into shape like the razorsharp lines at Xiao Li. ‘You are a Fashion Robot’ was the inspiration behind the look, which stylist Efi Davies from Toni&Guy interpreted as super-structured partings created by using lashings of hairspray close to the scalp which was then dried in (netted fabric was put over hair first). Rulers at the ready!

30

Eudon Choi

JUST BECAUSE it’s functional, doesn’t mean it can’t look pretty. Case in point: the rainbow of multi-coloured grips holding sections in place at Eudon Choi.

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

030-033_ReCreate_GW3.indd 1

23/01/2018 15:20


IT’S A WR AP NOTHING SAYS CHIC quite like a headscarf and we were tying ourselves in knots over the throwback vintage glamour of the silk wraps at Marc Jacobs. “It’s an old technique,” divulged Guido backstage. “I used a combination of gel, hairspray and water, depending on the hair’s texture, to tightly wrap the hair so the snoods and scarves fit comfortably on the head.”

POWDER ROOM

Pam Hogg

Marc Jacobs

R U N WAY R E C R E AT E

Caplanentwisle

HERE’S A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS – grab a tint bowl and a generous dollop of Tecni.ART Super Dust by L’Oréal Professionnel. Apply with a brush to centreparted roots à la Electric Hairdressing’s Mark Woolley at Caplanentwisle at On|Off. Serve with swagger for optimum stand out.

CHERRY BOMB IN THE INTERESTS of equality we should point out that it’s not just the girls having all the follicular fun this season. Cue the flaming-hot cherry-red hue sported by the only male model in the Pam Hogg show. Stylist Sophie Springett for Toni&Guy used a round brush to blow out the front of the hair and at the back she tonged random sections to give it a bit of a bend. Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

030-033_ReCreate_GW3.indd 6

31

24/01/2018 15:50


Alexander McQueen

Tata Naka

Coach Versace

Dior

Dolce & Gabbana

THE FORECAST for S/S18? Wet-look ’dos that had a distinctly accidental ‘caught out’ feel to them. “It’s like she’s coming out of the sea or a pond,” said Guido of the look at McQueen. “I drenched the hair in gel and left it to dry so that it’s a little dark, a little romantic and a little strange.”

ALL THAT GLIT TE RS MAGPIES WILL rejoice at the veritable treasure trove of hair embellishment on show this season. Slide into 2018 with a chic gold barrette à la Versace, or go a tad more ornate with a bejeweled headband as seen At Dolce & Gabbana (show-stopping floral head-piece optional). 32

Alexander McQueen

WET SPELL

CROWNING GLORY ADD SOME prettification to your plaits – as demonstrated to beautiful effect at the Tata Naka show where Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas set about weaving coloured ribbon through halo braids. The look is feminine and youthful, so make like Cos and his team and pull out bits around the hairline for a softer, carefree feel.

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

030-033_ReCreate_GW3.indd 3

23/01/2018 15:21


Haizhen Wang

R U N WAY R E C R E AT E

I’M WITH THE BAND

FEEL THE BURN Miu Miu

SIDEBURNS JUST got sexy thanks to Guy Kremer’s Jonny Engstrom at the Haizhen Wang show. Inspired by romantic warriors, Jonny started by etching in a side parting before securing the hair in a low ponytail at the nape of the neck leaving the two sections at the front loose. Working L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Density material through the top of the hair he placed a clip below each eye which were removed just before the show for a subtle indent.

HEADBANDS ARE often seen as a lazy girl’s go-to when styling hair seems a bit too much. Trust Miu Miu to make them chic, minimal and utterly covetable, especially when partnered with a mini bump of a beehive.

Éthologie

DUST OFF YOUR CRIMPERS as ’80s texture is back, and so too is its BFF, mousse! Reminiscent of candy floss, this look is anything but sweet, proving frizzy texture can still be tough. At Éthologie, stylist James Galvin for Daniel Galvin divided his high ponytail into a strict-braided faux-hawk at the top while lengths were prepped with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Full Volume Extra Mousse for structure, before being crimped and backcombed. And with new L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Rebel Push-Up, the first texturising powder-in-mousse, you can deliver more, more, more in a modern way.

Éthologie

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken and Toni&Guy

Tata Naka

SPIN SPIN SUGAR

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

030-033_ReCreate_GW3.indd 8

33

24/01/2018 15:50


Winchester School of Art Graduate Show

Felder Felder

Ashley Isham

HERE…

Haizhen Wang

John Smedley

Jonny Engstrom

Lauren Bell

HOW TO GET FROM

A L W AY S W A N T E D T O G O F R O M T H E S A L O N T O F A S H I O N W E E K ? FOR THESE T WO HAIRDRESSERS, THE DRE AM CAME TRUE FASHION WEEK CAN BE MYSTERIOUS. You can see the exclusive happenings unfold on social media, but how do you actually get there, backstage, in the thick of it? Well, it comes down to buckets of hard work, plenty of perseverance, and maybe a little help from L’Oréal Professionnel, as session regulars Jonny Engstrom and Lauren Bell discovered. Jonny Engstrom, art director at Guy Kremer, found his way to session styling via a win at one of the most prestigious hairdressing competitions in the world. “When I left Sweden to work for Guy Kremer in the UK, my dream was to work backstage at London Fashion Week,” he explains. “My journey with L’Oréal Professionnel started when I won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy in 2001. Then I went on to do my own seminars, teaching around the world, and this led to doing great shows at Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion with their graduate students.” Lauren Bell, senior stylist at Haringtons in Soho, has always been fascinated by the world of fashion – a world that she now regularly works in, assisting backstage for top hairdressers. “Now, when I think back to when it was a dream, it feels amazing to have achieved it,” Lauren says. Lauren joined the L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artist Programme in 2015, which gave her the opportunity to make the leap into session styling. “The ID Artist Programme is a great tool for getting an insight into how session hair works,” says Lauren. “By working with like-minded people, you can share ideas and hear about events.” The L’Oréal Profesionnel ID Artist Programme gives you access to

34

education from top session stylists and a chance to practise your skills with them in person. “The education we received really inspired me and helped elevate my knowledge in preparation for being backstage,” explains Lauren. “It would still be just a dream to work backstage at London Fashion Week if I hadn’t auditioned for the ID Artist Programme.” Both Lauren and Jonny have worked backstage at a host of prestigious fashion shows – Jonny has done hair at Fyodor Golan, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Erdem, John Smedley and led shows at On|Off and this season’s Haizhen Wang, while Lauren has worked on teams at Topshop Unique and Graduate Fashion Week among others. Through session styling, Lauren was given the opportunity to learn from her idol. “My highlight was getting to assist Richard Phillipart,” she explains. “His work is definitely my hair crush, so when I got to assist him at the Bouyez show, it was super-exciting for me to see how he works and see his vision put into practice. The show was fun and I got to assist alongside some of the other ID Artists.” Meanwhile, Jonny has relished the chance to see some of the most incredible clothes in the world: “My session styling highlight was leading the hair team at Stéphane Rolland during Paris Couture Week in 2011 – it was an amazing opportunity to see how the dresses are handmade, like beautiful art.” Fashion Week requires a specific combination of skills, which both Jonny and Lauren have developed during their time on session teams. “I think the most important thing is product knowledge – get to know the products you’re using, how they work, try different ways to apply them and

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

034-035_From A-Z_GW4.indd 1

23/01/2018 15:25


Ashley Isham

Bouyez

Graduate Fashion Week

On|Off

Graduate Fashion Week

Winchester School of Art Graduate Show

Winchester School of Art Graduate Show

R U N WAY F R O M A TO Z

TO HERE!

CLASSROOM TO C AT WALK WA N T T O S W O T U P O N Y O U R FA S H I O N KNOWHOW? THESE C O U R S E S F R O M L’ O R É A L PROFESSIONNEL CAN H E L P YO U G E T T H E R E!

FASHION WEEK INSIGHTS WEBINAR The Fashion Week Insights trend education webinar will give you the lowdown on London Fashion Week and what you can expect to see requested in your salon. The first Fashion Week Insight webinar will be available on Access on 20 February, between 7pm and 8pm, with Adam Reed from Percy & Reed.

Fashion Week images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

FASHION INSPIR ATION HAIR DRESSING learn what hair texture to use them on and why,” explains Lauren. “It’s also important to remember that we’re all working as a team backstage, so help everyone out when you can. Keep your kit organised and I’d recommend getting a pinny – it’ll be your best friend! “Working backstage is very different from salon work, as you need to be fast and very adaptable,” says Jonny. “Have a good session kit full of products that are not too heavy. You also need to have all the classic skills – tonging, blow-drying, back-combing and hair up. And most of all, you need to be gentle when working with professional models. Happy models equal a happy show!” Session work might be lots of fun, but it’s important to get the balance right with your salon work too. “Combining session and salon is not easy,” admits Jonny. “Clients sometimes complain when you go out of the salon, but they like to hear that you are involved with fashion.” Counteract any upset by showing your clients that the skills developed backstage can be brought back to the salon, and they’ll not only feel on trend, but also like they’re getting something extra from their salon service. “I feel like salon and backstage work go hand-in-hand – there is definitely less chatting backstage but the fundamentals are the same!” agrees Lauren. “Being backstage has made me think more about the steps that go into creating a look, so now I work with more structure and thought. My clients love to keep up with the trends, so I filter the runway looks into something more salon-friendly.”

If you’ve already got foundation experience in long hair, then this course will help you discover new fashion-forward styles. It’s a one day confidence booster for any hairdresser who loves fashion.

ID ARTISTS PROGRAMME The L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists programme has one goal: to find, nurture and develop talented individuals who could be the future stars of the hairdressing industry. If you’re one of the lucky handful that are picked to become ID Artists, L’Oréal Professionnel will help you fulfil your potential. If you want to try your luck, or you’re a salon owner with a rising star who needs a challenge, get an audition booked on Access. For more details on L’Oréal Professionnel education and opportunities, visit lorealaccess.com/uk

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

034-035_From A-Z_GW4.indd 2

35

23/01/2018 15:25


Harry Evans winning the 2016 Talent Award at Central Saint Martins

THIS CHARMING MAN M E E T H A R R Y E VA N S  H E ’ S T H E L AT E S T B R I G H T S PA R K T O C O M E F R O M C E N T R A L S A I N T M A R T I N S A N D S E T T H E FA S H I O N W O R L D A L I G H T. H E T E L L S R U N WAY H O W I T A L L B E G A N … Runway: Can you tell us about your fashion beginnings? Harry Evans: I started taking in interest in fashion when I was about 14. I was really into Vivienne Westwood and Comme Des Garçons and I saw fashion could be a means of selfexpression and creativity – then I realised it was something you could study and actually do for a living. R: Central Saint Martins has produced so many fashion greats – what was it like to study there? HE: It was amazing. When I started my BA degree we were in the old Charing Cross Road building and there was a blue plaque in the reception to say the Sex Pistols had played their first gig there. I stayed at Central Saint Martins to do my MA as well, so I had the full

36

experience. I learnt to always be yourself and how to cultivate that in your work. The other important thing I learnt was that if you don’t ask, you don’t get. R: Where does your inspiration come from for your work? HE: My inspiration comes from everywhere, it’s quite eclectic. I always reference things I love, that excite me. My S/S18 collection references cave paintings and Iron Age artefacts, ‘90s Versace, Siouxsie Sioux, Byzantine jewellery, ’50s theatre costumes and Cher. The spirit of the collection was really inspired by my grandma, who recently passed away. R: L’Oréal Professionnel sponsors both the Central Saint Martins graduate show and the

Talent Award, which you won in 2016 – how did this accolade impact your career? HE: It was not only a huge honour, but also a bit of a dream come true, as cheesy as that sounds! It’s amazing to somehow be connected to so many other amazing designers who have won previously, and having a bit of money after graduation really gave me time to relax for a bit and think about what I wanted to do next, which was definitely beneficial. R: You have worked at Meadham Kirchhoff and Céline – what did each of these incredible brands teach you? HE: They were two extremely different experiences. Meadham Kirchhoff really taught me everything – I learnt about how to put together a collection, a huge amount of

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

036-037 Harry Evans_GW1.indd 1

23/01/2018 15:26


Harry backstage at his S/S18 show

R U N WAY C E N T R A L S A I N T M A R T I N S

TEAM C AP TAIN WE CORNERED SESSION S TA R A D A M R E E D F O R T WO M I N U T ES TO FI N D O U T W H AT I T ’ S L I K E T O W O R K W I T H FA S H I O N ’ S B R I G H T YO U N G T H I N G Runway: What was it like working on Harry Evans’s first LFW show? Adam Reed: It was great. I’ve always loved working with young talent and Harry is the epitome of it.

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

technical knowledge and was also working somewhere making the most amazing clothes I’ve ever seen. At Céline I learnt a lot about finesse and fine-tuning things. It was wonderful to be part of such a huge and influential brand. R: You showed your S/S18 collection at a house off Brick Lane. How was this presentation put together? HE: The presentation was hosted by Fashion East, who are a great group of people, and they organised the location and put on the event. For me, this collection was about re-finding my identity. I realised that while working for someone else I’d stopped thinking about my work in the same way, so I feel really lucky that I not only had the chance to create a collection but also for it to

be a way to reconnect with my own work. R: How did you come up with the hair looks with Adam Reed? HE: Hair, make-up, casting, music and lighting are all as important as the garments themselves – all the elements need to work together. I had lots of references and ideas I wanted to try, and we worked on a couple of these different ideas to come up with the look. The brief I gave was that it should look really rich and lovely, but not too dressed or over-worked. Adam and his team did a fantastic job, it was brilliant to work with him.

R: What was the hair brief? AR: To make the models look the best that they could be, so we created a great finish and subtle movement. The clothes were all quite statement pieces so the hair had to nicely slot in. R: How did the two of you collaborate – what’s he like to work with? AR: He was really easy going and an absolute pleasure to work with. I popped in to see the collection, we had a chat and I went back the next day with the team to style the hair. R: What are you highlights from that show? AR: The clothes were amazing and the venue was incredible. I went to do the test there the day before and feel in love with the bright pink that the walls had been painted in preparation for the show.

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

036-037 Harry Evans_GW1.indd 2

37

19/01/2018 16:37


… S/S18 Secret Show

A/W16

H

E POW

E R

T

A/W17

OW

AND THE CROWN… AND THE FAU X F R I N G E … S E S S I O N L E G E N D G U I D O PA L AU LIFTS THE LID ON HIS DOLC E & GABBANA TRI N KE T BOX TO D ISC USS HAIR EMBELLISHMENTS

FL

S/S18

E

E

38

R

OF TH

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

038-039_Guido Feature_GW4.indd 3

24/01/2018 15:55


R U N WAY G U I D O

Guido working at Dolce & Gabbana S/S18

You have to look at the model’s face when you’re using flowers and accessories, you have to train your eye so you can play with height and width, just like with an up-do

Guido Palau

Images courtesy of Redken

Redken global creative director

“IT FEELS LIKE I’ve never not worked with them!” laughs Guido Palau, arguably the busiest Fashion Week session lead and Redken global creative director, when asked how long his collaboration with Dolce & Gabbana has lasted. It’s early on a Tuesday morning in New York, and Guido is about to leave for his studio when Runway catches him on the phone. “It’s been about 10 years, a long time. There are eight shows a year that I’m working on, it’s a constant kind of relationship I have with them.” And it’s a relationship that, for a hair stylist, is a particularly playful one. Looking at the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk in the past decade and you can’t help but smile at the colourful, joyful clothes and the prevalence of hair embellishments; be they sweet and subtle ribbons or full-on regal crowns. It’s an element to the shows that makes them stand out. “The appeal is that there’s this subtle sexuality going on, and I think that comes from their Sicilian roots, growing up in a rural environment,” muses Guido. “A lot of their references are a country girl that’s not overtly sexy, she’s twisted up her hair and placed a fresh flower in there. They’re influenced by religious iconography – all very Italian and feminine.” And that’s reflected in the hair on the catwalk – it’s restrained, not too sexy but there’s a femininity that’s attractive to women. And with the embellishments – such as the fresh flowers, jewelled pieces or even something they’ve made particularly for that season – it adds to the colour and the celebration of that woman. And for the fashion fan, it feels like you could do the hair yourself; it doesn’t look too difficult, and Guido is convinced that’s part of the appeal. “With the help of a hair accessory, you can change a look in an easy way. I’m surprised that more women don’t put fresh flowers or leaves in their hair, because it really does have an impact,” he says. “Even if it’s just one single flower with a messy knot, it’s such an easy way to update or change your look.” An important element is keeping it all soft – structure is minimalised. “With Dolce, if I’ve done a centre-parting it’s a soft one that I’ve created with my fingers, pulled over the ears,” he explains. “Everything is always soft around the ears, the temple and the neck, there’s a nonchalance to it.” Of course, it’s breath-taking when those models are walking, but accessories present some real challenges to Guido and his team

backstage. “Sometimes when we’re doing the couture shows, it can be very hot and the flowers are wilting, so we have to change out the flowers just before the models hit the runway,” he says. “Often gripping flowers into the hair can be tricky, because the designers don’t like too much product in the hair. So underneath we might put a little scalp braid so that there’s something to bobby pin it in to. And sometimes accessories can be heavy, so attaching it to some kind of braid beneath the shape is important.” When creating different personalities with the flowers, it’s just like an up-do in Guido’s mind – it’s all about proportion and weight, and to make sure it “doesn’t look too twee”. “Sometimes there are flowers AND hair accessories so it’s almost overloaded, and I just get buckets of flowers and just go at it like I’m a florist,” he chuckles. But he is adamant too that you need to train your eye in a more technical way. “You have to look at the model’s face when you’re using flowers and accessories, you have to train your eye so you can play with height and width, just like with an up-do,” he says. “Not everyone gets it right, and I often have to take flowers out and rearrange it when people don’t quite see it.” And there is the danger with accessories that it can go wrong and look like “bad wedding hair”, he admits. It needs an ease to it. “It’s important to keep the hair feeling soft and not looking too lacquered; let your accessory be the star, the hair is the back-up, the base,” he advises. “It’s important, those little details. With the Dolce woman, it feels and looks as though hands have been there, it’s not smartened with a brush, then hairspray and then flowers. I think you would lose the femininity. Having those accessories oversized makes it more whimsical.” But when it comes to Guido’s favourite accessory at Dolce & Gabbana, his choice is rather less sparkly or traditionally pretty. “A couple of seasons ago we did these fake fringes, it was really fun. Fake bangs in different colours, flowers on top… it was almost this cartoony-princess idea but still feminine in a modern way. It was another challenge to your eye about beauty,” he says. “It’s funny, we often use carnations and back in England they’re thought of as a rather naff kind of flower! But they’re very traditional and can look very beautiful.”

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

038-039_Guido Feature_GW4.indd 4

39

24/01/2018 15:49


FASHION WE E K IS NOT ONLY GRE AT FUN FOR THOSE INVOLVED, IT ALSO OFFERS HUGE BENEFITS BACK IN YOUR BUSINESS  WE BRE AK DOWN WHAT SALONS C AN E XPEC T TO GAIN FROM THEIR RE TURNING HAIR HE ROES

Josh Woodman and Adam Reed at Harry Evans S/S18

BRINGING IT HOME

40

Cristiano’s salon recreation

Luke Anthony Rooney

WHEN JOSH WOODMAN arrived back at the Andrew Hill salon after a stint working for Adam Reed at Harry Evans S/S18 during London Fashion Week, he was inspired to recreate the looks he’d made at the show. “I learnt so much working backstage,” says Josh. “At Harry Evans we created undone, loosely textured waves, but I made the look much more wearable for clients back home.” Josh recreated this look in-salon back in Devon by scrunching L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Wild Stylers Beach Waves into the hair and diffusing. He then took diagonal back sections and gently wrapped the hair around a tong held vertically, keeping the direction of the wrap the same way all over the head until he had a soft wave throughout. “I then pinched the parting together and sprayed it with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Fix Anti-Frizz, manipulating the hair with my fingers to create a beautifully dishevelled wave,” he adds. “I finished the look with Tecni. ART Wild Stylers Next Day Hair to really exaggerate the texture.” Cristiano Basciu, artistic director at Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, loved the messed-up bun at the Luke Anthony Rooney S/S18 show he led during On|Off and went straight back to the salon to recreate it for his clients. “This low, slightly mussed-up bun is a classic style with a modern twist,” he says. “It’s super-trendy and works beautifully for all face shapes as it can be easily personalised with face-framing wisps or partings. It’s the perfect day-to-night look – you can wear it with jeans and a white shirt as easily as a ball gown.”

Cristiano Basciu at Luke Anthony Rooney

Josh’s salon recreation

Harry Evans

THE LOOKS

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

040-043_Bring it Home_GW1.indd 1

23/01/2018 15:34


Tommy’s Hair Company’s Jennalea Cotton (right) at LFW

R U N WAY B R I N G I N G I T H O M E

Jennalea at On|Off

THINK SESSION STYLING is simply a ponytail or undone hair? Think again. It’s fast, challenging and precise. It’s the perfect place to learn how to follow a brief to the letter and to speed up your styling skills. But it doesn’t stop there; it’s also a breeding ground for inspiration, with many stylists taking back what they learnt to share with their salon teams. Camilla Stanyer coordinates and delivers training to Tommy’s Hair Company in Ruthin. She dedicates whole evenings to recreating some of the most interesting looks from her time backstage at Fashion Week. “I put pictures of the looks up on the mirror and give the team the challenge of recreating the looks themselves,” explains Camilla. “It’s like the Masterchef challenge where they have to taste the dish and recreate it. It’s great fun and really gets the cogs whirring.” It was the same for Jennalea Cotton, also from Ruthin’s Tommy’s Hair Company. “It was great to come back from London Fashion Week and be able to show the team the looks that were hitting the catwalk and how they could be interpreted for clients,” says Jennalea. “I chose some of my favourite looks from LFW and I broke them down step by step, recreating them right in front of my salon team.” Jennalea found that the best thing about sharing her session experience was the lightbulb moments that happened back in the salon. “I would recreate a style and then a team member would do it, but maybe do something slightly differently, or use a different accessory, and the whole feel of the look would change. Before you know it, they are creating their own interpretations of the looks.” The Blushes Artistic Team has worked on many shows over the years, including Erdem, Daks and On|Off, assisting the likes of Stephen Low, Adam Reed, Richard Phillipart and Anthony Turner. Why do they keep going back for more? Because the skills and knowledge they acquire backstage are second to none. “We love bringing back a greater knowledge of products, styles and techniques to the salon, which we then filter through to our clients and staff,” says Isla Cordory, head of the Blushes Artistic Team. The team holds a biannual trends evening for salon staff where they showcase what they have learnt and the styles and trends for the season. “On our last trends evening, we demonstrated a range of styles, from relaxed waves to the more current super-sleek trend,” adds Isla.

Isla Cordory at Erdem

Carina Hedderman from Blushes

Tommy’s backstage at On|Off

Blushes Artistic Team recreating what they learnt at LFW on salon models

THE SKILLS

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

040-043_Bring it Home_GW1.indd 2

41

19/01/2018 16:48


YOU’VE SHARED WHAT YOU learnt backstage with your salon team, but what about your clients? Social media was made for things like Fashion Week and is the perfect platform to not only showcase what stylists did after LFW, but as it happens, too. Do it well and you create the kind of buzz and excitement around your salon that can’t be bought. Jordanna Cobella, creative director at Cobella Hair and Beauty, worked on Daks and used social media to drum up excitement. “During the lead-up we did a countdown to Fashion Week on our social media channels to promote the news that I was going to be involved in LFW,” she says. Some posts were of the LFW logo, some were of models in action and some were pictures of hair tools and products that were going to be used. “We also told our clients to tune in and watch our Instagram Stories for live looks, backstage pictures and behind the scenes of the prep for the shows,” adds Jordanna, who found Instagram to be the best social media platform to do Fashion Week posts as they generated the most client interaction there. Finally, during LFW, the salon had its social media channel on display on an iPad, which sat on the reception desk. “This not only promoted what we were up to, but also doubled-up as a look book for clients.” Richard Ward’s Cristiano Basciu also uses Instagram to share the fashion excitement with followers and clients. “We want our clients to feel like they’re part of the action and to get real backstage insights,” he explains. “I love sharing crazy backstage stories with my clients and they love hearing about the different aspects of what we do when we’re not behind the chair.”

42

Daks

THE EXCITEMENT

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

040-043_Bring it Home_GW1.indd 3

19/01/2018 16:48


R U N WAY B R I N G I N G I T H O M E

THE KIT WORKING AT LONDON FASHION WEEK is great for inspiration and an incomparable way of getting ahead of the trends, but it’s also an untapped mine of retail gold, just waiting for you to discover it and share it with your clients. Your clients love to see what hair looks were created backstage, so it makes sense they’re going to be just as interested to hear all about the products used to create those looks. “Behind every great LFW look is an arsenal of amazing products. Clients love hearing about what I use backstage and I recommend my hero products all the time,” says Richard Ward’s Cristiano. “I then use them on clients so that they can see the results before they make a purchase, which they nearly always do.” Tommy’s Camilla makes a point of sharing this kind of insider information to her clients back at the salon, too, and has found the salon’s retail revenue picks up following LFW. In particular, this season: “I loved using L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Wet Domination Shower Shine as it instantly gives hair a wet look and keeps the hair looking shiny when it dries.”

GET FASHION WEEK SKILLS FOR THE SALON FASHION INSPIRATION HAIR DRESSING Learn fashion-oriented tips from L’Oréal Professionnel hair-up specialists and try out some stunning styles that you’ll love to show off in-salon.

NEW! FASHION WEEK INSIGHTS WEBINAR This trend education webinar will give you an insight into what has happened at London Fashion Week and what you can expect to see requested in your salon. The first Fashion Week Insight webinar will be available on L’Oréal Professionnel’s online education platform, Access, on 20 February at 7pm, with Percy & Reed’s Adam Reed.

NEW! CREATIVE COLOUR Discover how to source new inspiration and emerging trends as members of the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Team share their interpretations of the latest techniques. Guaranteed to give you a boost so you can return to your salon with fresh ideas. For more details on L’Oréal Professionnel education and opportunities, visit lorealaccess.com/uk

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

040-043_Bring it Home_GW1.indd 4

43

19/01/2018 16:49


44

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

044-047_White Show_GW7.indd 1

23/01/2018 09:34


R U N WAY C E N T R A L S A I N T M A R T I N S

BLANC SPACE RUNWAY TAKES A PEEK BEHIND THE CURTAIN AT THE ANNUAL WHITE SHOW, THE C E NTR AL SAINT M ARTINS FIRSTYE AR STUDENT SHOWC ASE YES, YOU HAVE THE BA and MA shows from the esteemed Central Saint Martins, but there’s another regular showcase that illustrates what the kids are up to – the White Show. Every December, first year BA Fashion students, along with first year Fashion Communications students, are set the challenge of putting a show together that follows a predetermined theme. For 2017, that theme was Eyes White Open. Whether a student starting off or an established designer, most end up having to work through the night in those last days before a collection shows… which means no sleep! The show takes place on the long, runway-style balconies that are set across two storeys at the university’s King’s Cross campus. All the clothes are created in white fabrics to show the students work on an almost blank canvas, building up to a climax that saw a dramatic release of feathers ( from pillows and duvets) to resemble snow, ideal for the pre-Christmas date. And on hand with hair? The L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists, with hair directors Yesmin O’Brien at seanhanna and Jason Hall at Jason Hall Hairdressing leading the way. Models’ hair was prepped with Tecni.ART Pli and some Tecni.ART Full Volume Mousse for texture, before being blow-dried through nets with a diffuser and finished with Infinium hairspray. With 160 models to get ready, it’s fast, fresh and a bit chaotic – a great first backstage experience for the young L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists, many of whom will have never worked on a fashion show before. We caught up with Yesmin, Jason and a few of the young team members to find out if everything was all white on the night…

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

044-047_White Show_GW7.indd 2

45

23/01/2018 15:31


THE DIRECTORS Y E S M I N O ’ B R I E N from Seanhanna, London and J A S O N H A L L from Jason Hall Hairdressing, Edinburgh

Runway: How did you get the gig? Yesmin O’Brien: I was very fortunate to be asked to head the White Show the previous year and had great feedback so was asked if I could work on it again. Jason Hall: I work closely with L’Oréal Professionnel on lots of projects and when they approached me about this I rescheduled my diary to make sure I was available. The chance to work with the next generation of designers is fantastic. R: What was the experience like? YO’B: As all shows, it’s with the planning and pre-show brief meeting with the organisers and doing some hair looks to cement and preparation for the job. I did this about five weeks before. JH: We spent the first hour setting up our space, briefing the assistant’s and doing the hair demo. I always find if you take the time to do these things well then everyone has a nice day. The assistants where then split into two teams with me or Yesmin. The whole day was actually very calm, relaxed and really good fun. R: Any interesting moments? YO’B: All seemed to go well on the day but I was catching a plane in from Hamburg that morning and praying there were no delays. I had some of my team bring my equipment and set up for me just in case there were any issues with my luggage not turning up!

46

JH: We had lots of hats that we had to sew to the model’s hair, balaclavas that were too small for the model’s heads that we had to alter; we even had one model that had decided to bleach her own hair a few days before the show and her hair was breaking every time anyone touched it! But because everyone was so positive the whole thing went amazingly well. R: Have you worked together before? JH: We’ve travelled all over Europe and worked on lots of big shows together, we even have our favourite restaurants in each of the fashion capitals that we meet in for dinner! R: What was it like working with fashion students – very different from the big designers you work with at the global shows? JH: I find most designers, no matter what stage of their career, have the same goal and that’s to see the vision in their head recreated on the catwalk. As long as you spend the time to listen and understand that vision then it’s always a pleasure to be involved with. YO’B: Every client is equally important. These are our future stars. R: What kept you going? YO’B: Cups of Earl Grey! JH: I’m a Diet Coke addict and L’Oréal Professionnel made sure I had a never-ending supply. I also think fun and laughter keeps everyone going so we made sure there was lots of that.

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

044-047_White Show_GW7.indd 3

23/01/2018 15:30


R U N WAY C E N T R A L S A I N T M A R T I N S

THE ARTISTS HARRIET STOKES Not Another Salon, London

LORA GRIFFIN

SAR AH BL ACK (2017 L’Oréal Colour Trophy winner)

Simon Webster Hair, Brighton

N AT H A L I E M U R R AY Linton & Mac, Aberdeen

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

R: What was the biggest lesson you learned? HS: The manner in which hair styling as a discipline is adapted, even ‘rules’ are broken to achieve a stylist’s vision.

R: What was your highlight from the event? LG: It has to be the final line-up! Being able to see each look, down to the last detail, and the complete ensemble ready to go! The creativity was off the radar and I was constantly impressed by the students’ innovative ideas and designs. R: Any interesting moments? LG: I noticed that one of the outfits was accessorised with two dead fish! It was fabulous, but unfortunately made the model less than popular with the others, who seemed to keep their distance!

Runway: What was the experience like? Sarah Black: It was great to work alongside some fellow ID Artists – and overall it was a really chilled day, which was surprising as there were 160 models! R: What was your highlight from the event? Nathalie Murray: Seeing the whole look come together. The students’ work was out of this world; their ability to create some of the outfits in just a few weeks is crazy talent. R: Any interesting moments? SB: The majority of the models were students and the theme was that they all looked like they had cut and coloured their own hair; there were bits of hair hacked off and hair so over-processed. It would normally have been a stylist/colourist’s worst nightmare, but for this particular show it actually worked. R: What was the biggest lesson you learned? SB: Sometimes it’s about putting down your tools and just working with your hands… and lots and lots of product. R: What kept you going? NM: Naked Banana Loaf bar is my go-to behind-thescenes snack!

Sarah Black

R: What was the experience like? HS: This was my first time working backstage on a show of this calibre. I didn’t really know what to expect, even though styling is an aspect of the everyday salon experience, there is a dramatic difference between the two. It was amazing to see how everyday styling techniques can be adapted to achieve different results.

Runway: What was the experience like backstage? Lora Griffin: The White Show was like nothing I have ever experienced before! Being surrounded by so many passionate new, young designers at once created a feeling of being a part of something really extraordinary, fresh and impactful.

Nathalie Murray

Runway: How did you get to work at the White Show? Harriet Stokes: As a member of the L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artist team, I was selected to collaborate on the White Show. The ID Artist programme is aimed at developing the skills of the Artists over a two-year period, and gives us the chance to raise our profiles through their opportunities.

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

044-047_White Show_GW7.indd 4

47

23/01/2018 09:35


Josh Wood with Stella Lucia

SUGAR AND SPICE

AT A L E X A N D E R WA N G T H I S S E A S O N , R E D K E N G LO B A L C O LO R C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R , J O S H WO O D, F U S E D P R E T T I N E S S A N D T E E N AG E A N G S T F O R A P I N K T H AT PAC K E D A P U N C H

48

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

048-049_Josh_GW3.indd 1

19/01/2018 16:29


Nina Agdal for Redken Shades EQ

R U N WAY J O S H W O O D

ne Josh with Mads-Su

Lund

ALEXANDER WANG shows have a certain power about them. Each season, the fashion and beauty worlds watch his New York catwalk with bated breath, wondering what new looks will be pulled out of his magician’s hat: once it was an army of bleached-out heads, another time it was model Katie Moore’s fresh scarlet crop. For S/S18, it was the turn of Stella Lucia, whose pink waves set social media alight. The man responsible for transforming the Austrian model’s blonde hair was of course Redken global color creative director Josh Wood, who worked on the show with regular collaborator and Redken global creative director, Guido Palau. Together with Alexander Wang, they sought inspiration from Kate Moss, who boldly walked the Versace runway in 1999 with a pink head in a sea of neutrals. “We wanted one model to really stand out,” explains Josh Wood. “In the past we have had a lot of models changing their hair for a show, but this was a relaxed look on all of them.” With Alexander Wang adored as a fashion god among millennials, it’s no surprise that Josh offered up a pink shade for Stella – but this isn’t just any pink.

The crystallised shade is pretty in some lights and edgy in others, forcing you to consider it from every angle. “I’ve called it Rose Quartz,” says Josh. “It was always going to be a pink, but moving away from baby pastels to something grungier. It shows that you can have a personalised tone of pink that suits your complexion. There’s not just one shade.” This gemstone effect was created using Redken’s colour line-up and, to avoid backstage stress, the colouring process was done the day before the show. “It took about eight hours,” admits Josh. “Some of this time was spent doing treatments, as we had to maintain the quality of the hair.” After all that hard work, all Stella required on show day was a tousle, courtesy of Guido. Her international modelling career meant that she had to be back to blonde for Milan Fashion Week. “Stella was scheduled to walk for Gucci the following week, and she was booked to have white hair, so the colour we did for the Wang show had to be something that we could wash out,” admits Josh’s first assistant, Mads-Sune Lund, who was on hand throughout. The world of hair has been rose-tinted for a while now, with everyone from Katy Perry to Helen Mirren by way of Lady Gaga flirting with a little blush through their blonde. Research from L’Oréal Professionnel has found that nearly a quarter of women (24 per cent) are more likely to try a bright or pastel hair colour now than they were a year ago. The report also discovered large increases in clients wanting to experiment with the pink hair trend right across the UK, and colouring hair now tops the list of reasons women visit hair salons. But have we reached peak pink, or will we continue to see it over the coming season? “It’s definitely going to stay as a huge trend,” says Josh, who recently worked on a Redken Shades EQ campaign that features the grungy pink at Wang. “It’s popular with clients as it’s flattering and doesn’t stain hair. Now we’re going to see more dusty shades of pink.” Make ours a rosé, all day.

HOW TO GET ROSE QUARTZ

Pre-Lightened Hair, Level 10

Formula one: 2 oz. Redken Shades EQ Pastel Pink + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution processed for 20 minutes on clean, dry hair. Rinse, shampoo, and condition with Redken Color Extend Magnetics.

Formula two: 2 oz. Redken City Beats Ballet Pink + 1 oz. City Beats in Clear + 1/8 oz. City Beats in East Village Violet + 1/8 oz. City Beats in Midtown Magenta processed for 20 minutes on dry hair. Rinse, shampoo, and condition with Redken Color Extend Magnetics.

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY

048-049_Josh_GW3.indd 2

49

19/01/2018 16:29


R U N WAY S/S H A I R I S …

“ABOUT TEXTURE AS THE NEW ACCESSORY AND THE MOST VERSATILE USE OF PRODUCT DICTATES LOOKS. EACH HAS TO BE ST YLED TO LOOK LIKE EFFORTLESS, SECOND DAY HAIR”

Stephen Low, Neville Hair & Beauty

“ALL ABOUT INDIVIDUALIT Y  INTERESTING TEXTURE, SHAPES AND COLOURS. WE SAW A LOT OF EDITORIAL  WET LOOKS, DECONSTRUCTED ST YLES AND QUIRK Y DETAILS TO GIVE LOOKS PERSONALIT Y”

Corrado Tevere, Radio London

“ALL ABOUT NATUR AL TEXTURE OF THE HAIR; NOTHING TOO OVERST YLED OR POLISHED. I LOVE A SLIGHTLY UNDONE LOOK THAT BRINGS OUT THE NORM BUT IS ACTUALLY PURPOSELY ST YLED THAT WAY”

Mark Woolley, Electric Hairdressing

“ALL ABOUT BEING UNIQUE! HARDLY ANY MODELS GO OUT LOOKING THE SAME, DESIGNERS LOVE INDIVIDUAL QUALITIES. THEY ARE BOOKED FOR THAT AND DESIGNERS WANT TO WORK WITH THAT WHENEVER POSSIBLE”

Anna Chapman, Session Kit

“ABOUT EVERYBODY HAVING THEIR OWN UNIQUE SHADE OF COLOUR; NO MAT TER IF YOU’RE BROWN OR BLONDE, IT’S THE L AYERING THAT MAKES IT TRULY YOURS”

Josh Wood, global color creative director, Redken

A S U M M A RY O F T H E S E A S O N , I N T H E WO R D S O F T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L S

“S/S18 H A I R I S …”

“ALL ABOUT TEXTURE! WHETHER IT’S EMBR ACING NATUR AL TEXTURE OR CREATING THE EX ACT TEXTURE YOU LOVE. S/S18 IS ALSO ABOUT ACCESSORIES USING PINS, CLIPS AND JEWELS IN PARTINGS”

Jonathan Long, Lockonego

50

“NATUR AL AND FREE FLOWING; THINK DREAMY ROMANTIC TEXTURES AND LONG CASCADING LOCKS”

Richard Phillipart, The Boutique Atelier

“ALL ABOUT LOOKING THE BEST IT CAN  SO MANY DESIGNERS WANTED THE GIRLS’ HAIR TO BE THE BEST IT COULD POSSIBLY BE, SO IT WAS ABOUT CREATING BEAUTIFUL , EFFORTLESS FINISHES”

Adam Reed, Percy & Reed

“A GREAT CELEBR ATION OF A MODEL’S OWN ST YLE. ABOUT 80 PER CENT OF DESIGNERS ARE CELEBR ATING A DIVERSE CASTING AND THEY DON’T WANT YOU TO TAKE AWAY PERSONALIT Y”

Guido, global creative director, Redken

“NATUR AL , GLOSSY  IT HAS AN ELEMENT OF LUXURY AND FREEDOM ABOUT IT, WHILE STILL HAVING AN ORGANISED STRUCTURE”

Cristiano Basciu, Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa

RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

050 SS17 Hair is_GW1.indd 1

24/01/2018 10:31


MEGA DRY HAIR? MEGA PUFFY HAIR? IT’S MEGA OVER!

NEW ALL SOFT MEGA

For very dry, puffy hair. NEW All Soft Mega. Featuring the Superfood Nutri-Complex – a blend of cactus extract, aloe vera and sacha inchi oil - that helps deliver intense hydration, replenishment and control for hair that expands uncontrollably as a result of dryness. @REDKEN #ALLSOFTMEGA #PUFFYHAIR #SHEETMASKFORHAIR

FIND OUT MORE AT REDKEN.CO.UK


Runway Spring/Summer 2018  

The original and best UK hair and fashion magazine, brought to you by Creative HEAD

Runway Spring/Summer 2018  

The original and best UK hair and fashion magazine, brought to you by Creative HEAD

Advertisement