£4.50 JuNE 2014
In print l online l everywhere!
It’s show time!
unleash your passion for fashion
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Photography by Alex Barron-Hough
We love the incredible styles that grace the catwalks season after season, but we also know they would never work on a day-to-day basis in the salon. They’re high art that we take inspiration from to create wearable high street looks. The brilliant blonde beehives seen at The Blonds show during New York Fashion Week were fabulous, but not many clients will feel like wearing something the size of a watermelon on their head. This is where TIGI steps in – to make the fantastical practical. From the concrete canyons of New York to the eclectic streets of London, if it’s cool, creative and Cara’s a fan, you can bet TIGI already has a look and a product for it…
Get #behindthecatwalk with @TIGIcreatives and CatwalkbyTIGI on Instagram
Mark Fast S/S14
See it! Get all the latest on products and campaigns at the all-new catwalkbytigi.com
a NEW MODEL
alice + olivia S/S14
The relaunched Catwalk by TIGI range takes inspiration from the world of fashion and translates the looks into more accessible, everyday styles. For S/S14, TIGI has brought back all the iconic elements that have helped make Catwalk by TIGI the range it is today but made it clearer and more modern. All of its shampoo and conditioners are colour-safe, with sulphate-free variants on the way soon, too.
Absolutely flawless Incredible blow-drys are always in abundance on the catwalks and there’s no better feeling in the world than leaving the salon with super-shiny hair swishing behind you. But truly mastering the blow-dry requires some insider know-how. Catwalk by TIGI has introduced three new multi-tasking products – Bodifying Spray, Hairista Split End Perfector and Camera Ready Shine Spray – to create a flawless salon blow-dry at home. This gives stylists the opportunity to educate the client and increase retail sales – after all, once you’ve shown them how to master the blow-dry, you’ll be the only person they’ll turn to for all their future in-salon services and retail suggestions. So, whatever your client’s style, Catwalk by TIGI has the product for blow-dry perfection…
For impeccable volume
For healthy-looking hair
For a shiny finish
To achieve bold and bouncy volume, clients should prep hair with Catwalk by TIGI Bodifying Spray. This miracle worker allows them to sculpt a voluptuous silhouette with no sticky feel, pumping volume into the style as well as achieving subtle, natural hold.
When creating a perfect blow-dry, healthy-looking hair is a must. Catwalk by TIGI Hairista Split End Perfector gives hair a silky, smooth feel as well as helping to combat rebellious split ends, repairing up to 80 per cent of them and even preventing new ones from forming.
For luminous shine and to keep a blow-dry looking pristine, clients should lightly spritz their finished style with Catwalk by TIGI Camera Ready Shine Spray. It’s specifically formulated with a generous shine shot to help protect your client’s style from frizz, no matter what.
The Blonds S/S14
power player After finishing A/W14 Fashion Weeks and stopping by Creative HEAD’s networking club The Coterie, we pounced on TIGI global creative director Nick Irwin as he caught his breath for five minutes before beginning to prep for S/S15…
Creative HEAD: What made you decide to go down the session styling route?
Nick Irwin: Like many session stylists, I got my first taste by assisting – and I soon got hooked. It seemed to have so much to offer, both creatively and expanding my experiences, providing opportunities to work with different people and to travel the world. There are many different areas in which to develop a session styling career, from working with celebrities and advertising to editorial shoots and shows, not to mention building relationships with photographers, make-up artists and clothes stylists to become part of a team. In fact, it was on an editorial shoot in Jamaica that I met my wife.
CH: What do you do when you’re not working backstage at the Fashion Weeks? NI: It has to be said that my job isn’t all about session. I am first and foremost TIGI global creative director and that means working with our team across the globe on shoots and shows, as well as leading their creative direction. But the session work is inspiring and I am always able to use the experience and knowledge that I gain doing session styling in other areas of my work. CH: What and when was the first fashion show you ever worked on either by yourself or for TIGI? NI: We started with a bang at TIGI as we were lucky enough to work with Christopher Kane when he was still fairly unknown but beginning to be noticed by both Donatella Versace and Anna Wintour. From that first season the TIGI session team became increasingly well respected and now I
CH: What key skills can a stylist pick up working backstage for a fashion show? NI: You quickly develop Long hair skills, as well as braiding and looking at the shape you’re creating. You also really get to understand how to use products in the most effective way.
Mara Hoffman S/S14
CH: Do you think it’s important for a stylist to gain experience of session work and, if so, why? NI: Session work broadens the way you view hair and it really enhances traditional hairdressing skills. With the team we take to support us at fashion shows, we really concentrate on getting their classic skills strong prior to the fashion weeks. It’s a very different experience to salon work but requires a lot of the same needs, such as teamwork, working under pressure and communication skills.
alice + olivia S/S14
head up shows in New York and London. But the very first show I ever did was Lisa Ho in Sydney in the early ’90s. Linda Evangelista was guest supermodel there, which was incredibly nerve-wracking, but at the same time it was a great introduction to the world of fashion.
The Blonds S/S14
CH: How does TIGI go about breaking down the catwalk trends to make them more commercial and salon-friendly? NI: At the end of the day TIGI is ‘by hairdressers for hairdressers’ so it’s really important that we share what we do and also explain how to make catwalk trends salon-friendly for clients. We believe it’s important for all stylists to know what’s happening in fashion; what trends are coming up for the next season, the shapes, colours and textures of the clothes and the words you can use to communicate these ideas are key. After the shows, we shoot a commercial version of the key looks to show salon hairdressers. We also create a book, Catwalk Collective, in which we detail key trends and include step by steps and colour information. CH: Do you think clients are more aware of the catwalk trends and that they are a bigger influence than celebrities when it comes to hair trends? NI: I think both have their place. Celebrities and what they wear on TV, on the red carpet and at fashion shows will always be influential, but increasingly fashion is covered in the news, online and in magazines and I believe it is this wide access that is influencing the public. CH: What advice would you have for an up-coming stylist who is keen to get into the session world? NI: First of all, practice all the key skills. You need to be strong at editorial hair, perfecting a simple ponytail, wrapping hair for wig work, basically mastering the classics and having great skill with styling tools, such as straighteners and curling tongs. Being able to braid is a must!
Fashion Flash for A/W14
“This collection was dream-like, playful and beautiful. The soft candy blonde hues in the hair are perfect for the overall story”
Sophia Webster A/W14
Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director
A LIGHTER TOUCH
Jonathan Simkhai S/S14
Frankie Morello S/S14
The Blonds S/S14
WHAT DID THE balloon-inspired buns seen at The Blonds and the super-shiny tresses spotted at Frankie Morello and Ruffian this S/S14 all have in common? They were on the brilliant side of blonde! Blonde is back for summer and it’s better than ever thanks to TIGI’s copyright©olour gloss 10/ series toners; ideal for toning pre-lightened hair and for clients looking to go a little bit lighter for summer. With increased tone and neutralisation, the three no-ammonia, demipermanent gloss shades sit alongside the existing copyright©olour pastel toners and offer colourists more creative choice than ever before. “When I am toning pre-lightened hair, I need a product that is gentle, fast and allows me to customise my formula based on the level of toning required – TIGI copyright©olour gloss 10/ does all this and more,” says Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director.
No shrinking violetâ€Ś
VIOLET IS HAVING a bit of a ‘moment’. The Giorgio Armani S/S14 show was awash with all shades of purple and we loved the pastel violet coats at Burberry Prorsum. The shade has become popular for good reason – it’s flattering to the complexion and can add depth and shine in the hair for unmatched intensity. TIGI copyright©olour’s four violet shades have been developed in both a permanent (creative) and demi-permanent base (gloss), with major and minor tones of violet to create a range of extravagant and intense results, allowing colourists to create enviable looks.
EDUCATION get creative Following the success of Creative Consultation, Christel Lundqvist and her team have created a higher-level experience allowing hairdressers to look at colour from all angles. As always, fashion is at the heart of the course, with six fashion tribes revealed by Christel a key influencer when it comes to deciding the correct colour for your client. But this course goes beyond this, taking in skin and complexion analysis, beauty, make-up, personality and style to cover all aspects of what your clients expect and need from their colourist. The knowledge and skills learnt from Creative Consultation 2 enables the colourist to demonstrate superior expertise and assurance. With this newly acquired knowledge, the colourist will confidently provide clients with a unique and highly personal consultation, leading to the creation of a bespoke copyright©olour service.
In detail: Creative consultation 2
Book it! To get on to one of these incredible courses, call 0844 844 0944
Location: TIGI European Academy, London Duration: Two days When: 11 to 12 August Price: £375 Aimed at: Experienced colourists looking to improve their creative work.
SESSION SUPREME We know that fashion and hair goes hand in hand, like Cara Delevingne and Mulberry, Suki Waterhouse and her fringe. Now, TIGI is bringing the fashion world that much closer to hair with its Session course. With their fashion credentials very much in place, TIGI Creative Team members are seasonally found backstage in New York, London, Milan and Paris, and so are the perfect people to bring this course to life. Organised by Maria Kovacs, TIGI European session director, and using information and references gained from the world of fashion, the course gives hairdressers first-hand knowledge of the latest trends. Using styling and finishing ideas combined with detailed product usage, hairdressers are able to achieve quick and effective dressed looks straight from the catwalk. On the third day, the group participates in a TIGI photoshoot, utilising the information it has learnt.
Location: TIGI European Academy, London Duration: Three days When: 22 to 24 October Price: £500 Aimed at: Advanced stylists, qualified for a minimum of five years.
alice + olivia S/S14
In detail: Session
Keep up to date on all the latest fashion trends and looks with TIGI. For details, call 0844 844 0944 or visit tigiprofessional.com Creative Head
INSPIRED BY FASHION. READY TO WEAR HAIR
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RIVAL SALONS, cheap high street products, longer times between appointments – when a client is in your chair, you need to make that time count. But once that client is sat in front of your mirror, what are they seeing? What are they being asked? Are their senses tingling from the experience? The need to ‘perform’ and create theatre in the salon – to boost sales of services, retail, and improve customer loyalty – is greater than ever. Mixing potions, creating sculptures, designing hair graffiti… these are among the acts on the bill in salons across the UK (see our feature from page 64) and more in-salon entertainment is likely to follow as clients are seduced by the show, keen to see more. In the X Factor age, hairdressers too need to be performers to get people coming back to them, and to be engaging clients in conversations about their lifestyles to truly gauge what will thrill them long after they’ve walked out the door. It’s not just about a great cut, it’s about the personality and interaction, too. A little bit of drama can go a long, long way…
Amanda Nottage, Editor
firstname.lastname@example.org Creative HEAD Magazine 26
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It’s judgment month! For all those who have poured passion, sweat and tears into their Most Wanted and It List entries, the time has come for our judges to peruse and pick out their frontrunners. Will you make the shortlist? By Friday 13 June (lucky for some) you’ll know. Good luck! Meanwhile, we’re counting down to this year’s Grand Final, taking place on Monday 1 September at the aweinspiring Tate Modern. Hosted by comedian and actor Jack Whitehall, it will be epic. Get in quick for tickets: call 01434 610940 and visit creativeheadmag.com for stimulus! #MWIT14, people!
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WHAT’S INSIDE 66
THE GREAT SUMMER GIVEAWAY
We’ve got £10,000-worth of incredible prizes to distribute to lucky readers!
If you want clients to be truly loyal, you need to know their lifestyle better than they do
ON THE COVER Catwalk by TIGI Photography Alex Barron-Hough
SALON SMART 2014
Another incredible weekend of business brilliance. Wish you were there?
EDITOR AMANDA NOTTAGE
ART GRAEME WHITE
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JOANNA ANDERSEN
DEPUTY EDITOR BETH DAVIE
CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD
ADVERTISING MANAGER BEN BALDOCK
ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL
ONLINE EDITOR AMY WOOD
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE DAVID HAMMOND
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT:
PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK creativeheadmag.com 28
Creative HEAD Magazine
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 email@example.com
@creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD
R U N WAY
WIN IT! Scoop these blow-dry goodies from Catwalk by TIGI in our competition
The Coterie BOOK IT! Find out all you need to know about the next Coterie meeting – and see how to book your place
Hair by Nash White
Discover who made the shortlists for the Most Wanted and It List awards – diarise 10 and 11 June!
LOVE IT! Inspirational photographic collections, including this one from Nash White
Creative HEAD magazine
WATCH IT! See vision director Gianni Scumaci reveal all about Salon I-Deas by Joico
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The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
GR OO MI NG
STUDY HIGHLIGHTS LONDON PRICE GULF
This year’s Most Wanted! Actor and comedian Jack Whitehall (pictured above) has been revealed as the host of the Most Wanted and It List awards Grand Final, taking place at the most-visited modern art gallery in the world, the Tate Modern. Best known for his roles in Fresh Meat and Bad Education, Jack is sure to keep the audience amused and entertained throughout the evening as Creative HEAD reveals its stars of 2014. Overlooking the Thames in Bankside in London, the awe-inspiring gallery will play host to the Grand Final on 1 September. Catherine Handcock, publisher of Creative HEAD, said: “We’ve hankered after the Tate Modern space for some time now and with the stupendous Jack Whitehall as host, we hope to create a magnificent spectacle.” See page 86 for ticket details.
LONDON HAS BEEN revealed as the most expensive place in the UK for a men’s haircut, with prices averaging over £11 more than that of Northern Ireland, according to new figures from the 2014 Beautiful Britain survey from Salon Services. The numbers, which saw Northern Ireland offer the cheapest average haircut at £7.90 and London the most expensive at £19, have been released in the run up to the second National Men’s Grooming Day, taking place on 10 June. Launched by Salon Services to reflect the growing importance of the male market in the UK beauty industry, the initiative aims to encourage men to start giving more thought to their grooming routine. The survey further revealed that while Northern Ireland offered the cheapest men’s haircuts, male clients left the least time between cuts, averaging 3.6 weeks, followed by London, Wales and Scotland at 3.9 weeks. Nationwide, the average cost for a men’s hair cut in the UK was £12. Andrew Cannon, owner of 2013 Most Wanted Best New Salon Ruffians, has adapted his menu as attitudes change to grooming. “What we’ve noticed in the past six to nine months is a request from our clients for tidy-ups between appointments,” he said. “We’ve changed our service menu to allow this and it has increased our frequency to every two weeks for many customers. The price has to change accordingly, but you can work this to your advantage, so we actually make more margin on a tidy-up than a full haircut.”
WORTHINGTON REWARDS ONE-OF-A-KIND CLIENTS Charles Worthington Salons has launched an invitation-only The club to reward its most loyal Great Summer clients, called One of a Giveaway Kind. The club’s first event Creative HEAD is teaming up with saw the group given a host of brands to give you the chance the opportunity to meet to win more than £10,000-worth of new Charles at his flagship products, styling tools, education seminars Percy Street salon. It and lots more. From 2 June, readers can also saw Rachel Booth, enter a variety of giveaways online to win senior personal shopper individual prizes and one lucky winner at Reiss, presenting the could scoop the entire haul! current trends and an Head to page 68 for more. introduction to Cadenzza, a new jewellery line from Swarovski.
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PO P- UP
BORA AKSU AND KMS CALIFORNIA GET TALKING Fashion designer Bora Aksu granted KMS California salons an intimate audience at the hair brand’s second Smart Talk event. He discussed how he brings his ideas to life, and his collaboration with session stylist Liam Curran, who headed up his A/W14 show for KMS California. “Personality is important. You’re inviting him into your family, you need that harmony,” said the designer about working with Curran.
What’s in the box?
MORE THAN 1,300 hairdressers from over 50 countries competed for coveted OMC Hairworld titles during Hair & Beauty 2014, held in Frankfurt, Germany. From the wonderful and wacky to the hi-tech and futuristic, styles were creative, abstract and completely unique. Gold medals went to Italy for Senior Team Champion Technical Gents, while the Senior Team Champion Fashion Ladies went to Germany.
To-do list Your planner for the months ahead…
Grab a trophy This year marks the L’Oréal Colour Trophy’s 59th birthday and will feature an inspirational show from Skyler McDonald and Dylan Bradshaw at London’s Grosvenor House Hotel. For details, visit lorealcolourtrophy.com
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Strictly business Equip yourself with all the business know-how you need at Business Network Live with Wella. Taking place between 7 and 8 July, The exceptional line-up of speakers includes Ruby Wax, Pete Waterman and Amanda Wakeley. Call 01865 823892
WE HAD A little trouble defining just what the new Bed Head by TIGI Hair Space is at London’s Box Park pop-up mall. It’s part-salon but also part-shop, part-gallery and part-social hub. “This gives us the opportunity to not only cut and style hair, but also run events, create some buzz with music and art and look at our work from a new perspective,” explained TIGI international creative director, Anthony Mascolo.
GAP LE WINS GHD SPOTLIGHT COMPETITION Gap Le from Toni&Guy in Canary Wharf has won ghd’s latest spotlight competition. His prize includes attending a ghd seminar and having his winning video filmed professionally in the ghd studio and starring on the ghd YouTube channel.
❤ WE LOV E
Can you keep a secret? Award-winning hairdresser Lorna Evans is hosting a not-to-bemissed workshop in London on 13 and 14 October, where she will be revealing her secrets to styling long hair. To book, email info@lornaevanseducation. com.au
Summer sees the launch of the latest exclusive fashion collaboration between Giles Deacon and label.m with the hair brand’s first designer shades. The sunglasses pay homage to Giles’ S/S14 collection with a pink lipstick print on the case.
Simon Woodroffe (inset, centre) and Deborah Imber (inset, right)
Some of this year’s fundraisers
The amount of women who wear hair extensions but keep it a secret, according to a study conducted by Hairtrade.com. The poll also found that 38 per cent of all women surveyed used hair extensions as part of their beauty regime.
John Frieda raises over £260k in gosh charity bike ride More than £260,000 has been raised for Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity (GOSH) by John Frieda and fellow hairdressers competing in this year’s Ibiza Round the Island Cycle Challenge. The challenge saw more than 140 cyclists from the world of hair cover 200km to raise funds for the charity’s HAIRraising appeal, which aims to raise £1 million to go towards a new respiratory unit at Great Ormond Street Hospital. John Frieda said: “It was tough at times, but knowing we were raising funds for such a fantastic cause kept us going.” The HAIRraising appeal was founded by John Frieda in 2010 and reached its first £1 million target for the children’s hospital in 2012.
Stylist wins a month in the Dragon’s Den Deborah Imber has won a month of one-to-one business mentoring from former Dragons’ Den investor and Yo! Sushi founder, Simon Woodroffe. To win, the owner of Tots Crops hairdressing service in the Southeast, fought off hundreds of other entrants from across the UK, first submitting a video pitch for consideration and then pitching her case in person to an expert panel. Simon will act as Deborah’s personal business troubleshooter, with the aim of helping to expand her business. She said: “I’m so excited to win this mentoring – I know it’s going to be invaluable to me and my business.”
Bumble and bumble founder launches ‘un-shampoo’ Bumble and bumble founder Michael Gordon has created an innovative cleansing product that he claims will do away with the need for conditioner. Known as an ‘unshampoo’, Purely Perfect Cleansing Creme hopes to revolutionise how clients wash their hair. It promises one universal cleanser containing essential oils and aloe vera to lift impurities with no need for conditioners and masques. It is the first product from Hairstory, a collaborative brand launched in 2009 by Michael and a group of hairdressers, designers, artists and film-makers. He sold Bumble and bumble to Estée Lauder in 2006.
My month ahead What does June have in store for…
Jack Kilpatrick Raw Salons
This month will see us launch our new collection across the salon group, which will showcase the fresh artistic direction we plan to take. This is also an exciting time for us as the company is in the process of implementing a new training infrastructure for all of our six salons in the Southeast.
Josh Denholm Reilly Denholm Creative Hair Designers
A huge amount of time is being spent on the rebrand of the salon from Urban Spirit to Reilly Denholm Creative Hair Designers. We have to make sure everything works and there has to be a party! Then my team is going to learn all the latest trends at the Paul Mitchell Intelligent Style Tour.
Gina Conway Aveda Lifestyle Salons
I am putting the finishing touches to my in-salon Aveda Naturally Straight Blow-Dry Masterclass, launching in September. I’m also compiling a salon-style kit bag that clients can use at home. We are then working with the Look Good Feel Better charity to offer beauty treatments for a corporate event in Wimbledon.
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SELLING THE DREAM
CLIENTS LIVES ARE NOT THE SAME SO DON’T OFFER THEM ALL THE SAME, SAYS KEN WEST, OFFER ASPIRATIONS KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5
INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND CO-FOUNDER, RUSH HAIR It’s okay to fall as long as you learn from your mistakes. The key thing is to get straight back up again. Change one small thing then try again, again and again.
Listen to people that have experience. If the track record is proven, then you should be all ears.
Keep knocking on that door. You might have to knock 100 times before you get the answer, but the answers are always there – you just have to believe. Positive thinking is a magical thing.
MANY YEARS AGO salons were very different places from what they are today. Clients were coming out of our ears and were often treated as an inconvenience that we would get around to when we could. I remember a story about a stylist who told their receptionist not to bother him until at least three clients were waiting. That way the clients realised how lucky they were when they were finally seen. Thank God those days are long gone – but so are the days when we were awash with clients. Many salons find it hard to fill columns and keep their team fully utilised. Yet I still see salons boasting in their adverts that they offer free consultations and refreshments. I can’t recall ever charging a client for a consultation and I certainly don’t think that a ‘free’ refreshment is a unique selling point that will get customers charging through your door. Fresh flowers on reception and an array of drinks and snacks are found in any decent high street salon.
So, what are you doing to make yourself different? Because offering a good haircut is not going to make you stand out from the crowd anymore. How are your consultations different from anybody else’s? What dreams are you selling, what futures are you creating and how do you deliver this? Are you embracing technology and theatre or are you just doing what you have always done? Create change – change results. If your team is delivering the same message in the same way with the same tools then it’s exactly that – the same. And today’s clients don’t want ‘same’. Their lives are not the same; they buy differently, they eat differently, they communicate differently, they share differently, they complain differently, they praise differently, they even pay differently. If you haven’t changed then watch out – your clients might change you for someone else.
Those with the most desire in life will be the most successful. Put 10 people on the starting line of life and the person driven by desire will always win.
Hair by Jane Doe
AN Other salon
Mix with positive people; your close friends are very important. Behaviours and attitudes rub off, so choose your friends wisely.
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Want to ask Ken a question? Tweet us @creativeheadmag or visit 365hair.com
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No half-hearted tinkering on business rates, says NHF The National Hairdressers’ Federation has expressed dismay at the narrowness of a government discussion paper designed to open debate around the reform of business rates – but is urging salons to get involved and make their voices heard before the process concludes in the next few days. The discussion paper, Administration of Business Rates in England, was published in April and set out a number of questions for businesses and others to consider about the future of business rates, ahead of the system being reformed in 2017. Business rates are charged based on the property value of a shop or other commercial property, and the government has made it clear that this will not change. But the NHF has long argued the current system, which dates back some 400 years, no longer reflects the reality of the high street, with town centres having to compete with out-of-town shopping and online retailers. The discussion runs until 6 June and responses should be submitted directly to the government via email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Allergy alert cards proving popular The NHF has despatched nearly 1,600 packs of its Allergy Alert Colour Record Cards since they were launched last autumn. The ground-breaking initiative was unveiled in September last year as a joint project between the NHF and the Freelance Hairdressers’ Association, in consultation with the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association. The cards are designed to show a salon a client’s allergy test history and the frequency with which they have been tested to give salons a clearer picture of whether a test is required. The card can be used by salons that have insurance in place with Coversure Insurance Services, the NHF’s preferred broker. The packs of 100 cards are free (apart from postage) through the NHF.
Salons warn apprenticeship funding is ‘unworkable’ Government proposals to impose a compulsory contribution on salons that take on apprentices will stop the recruitment of apprentices in its tracks or mean salons will have to cut the wages of permanent staff – that’s the warning from members of the National Hairdressers’ Federation. The plans, revealed in Creative HEAD last month, have been branded ‘unworkable’ by NHF members, with salon owners strongly urging the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS) to rethink its decision to pass direct control of training funding to employers, rather than training providers, once new training structures launch next year. A consultation on the BIS plans ended in May, and the NHF polled more than 400 members before making its submission. The idea of an employer cash contribution towards the cost of training and assessment was a particular bone of contention, with the lack of any detail as to what level this contribution is likely to be set at being a particular worry. As one salon owner put it: “It’s difficult to make a considered judgement when the government hasn’t released figures on what the employer contribution would be.” Another added: “If the compulsory cash contribution rate is set too high, small employers will decide they cannot afford to employ apprentices.” Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, said the government’s parallel reforms to create more employer-led apprenticeships, with hairdressers already acting as ‘trailblazer’ employers, were positive. But against the backdrop of tough competition on the high street, a minimum wage rise from this autumn and extra costs expected from pensions auto-enrolment, its funding plans risked undoing all the good work achieved so far. “We run the risk of derailing a new, better apprenticeship system by imposing unwelcome and unnecessary changes to funding models. The additional costs and extra administrative burden of these new proposals will reduce the number of salons prepared to take on apprentices – the exact opposite of what the government is looking to achieve,” she said.
Theft and shoplifting in salons hit an unwelcome high over Christmas Salon thefts and break-ins during December and Christmas were the highest on record, up a fifth on what they were the year before, according to the NHF’s preferred salon insurance provider, Coversure Insurance Services. The news has prompted calls for salons urgently to review their security and be even more vigilant, especially around retail or display product. Sales manager Ross Wilkes said part of the problem was the very visibility of salons on many high streets nowadays, with the lure of retail products a particular risk. “Salons have a great big pane of glass at the front to show things off in their premises and they also have all their stock on show and many have invested in equipment. They could be seen as an easy target,” he said.
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 0845 345 6500, 01234 831695 or visit nhf.info 36
EFFORTLESS STYLE AND TEXTURE, SHEER ELEGANCE.
Spray a Porter Creative Head SP ad_220x285 CO.indd 1
ALL THE CARE IN THE WORLD
Want to keep your client loving their look? Then regular consultations are an imperative, not just nice-to-do at the introductory appointment. Clients feel their experience is more personalised, while staff will enjoy a potentially longer-lasting relationship. “About 75 per cent of our clients tweak their look every time,” reveals Victoria Stevens from Tops Salon, Melksham. “We try not to get stuck in a ‘same as last time’ rut.” Ensure you have plenty of visual aids such as moodboards and iPad galleries to help entice clients to try something new at the consultation, helping cement your status as a colour expert at the same time. This can make a real difference at a time when consumers are experimenting with cheaper home colour kits. Beverley Bates from Ekko Hair, Banbury, adds: “We have at least two colour corrections from home colour gone wrong a week.” And once you’ve turned that DIY disaster around, you’ll have a grateful – and potentially loyal – new customer!
ON AVERAGE, CLIENTS CHANGE THEIR COLOUR THREE
THE AVERAGE LENGTH OF A CONSULTATION FOR A NEW CLIENT IS 14.5
SALONS HAVE BEEN ASKED TO APPLY A HOME HAIR COLOUR
TIMES A YEAR
TATION 84% OF SALONS UNDERTAKE A CONSUL TS VISI NT EVERY TIME THE CLIE
HOW WAS IT FOR YOU? How was business in April compared with March? DECLINING: STEADY:
How was business in April 2014 compared with April 2013? DECLINING: STEADY:
Top tips CAST A MARKETING SPELL BASED ON INDUSTRY averages, client retention sits well below 50 per cent and new client retention is even lower; so what can we do to improve retention? Obviously the salon experience is a key factor, but carefully considered communications with new and existing clients help to build stronger relationships and impart a more personal touch. Imagine you are a new client booking your first service with a salon. Prior to your appointment you receive a ‘welcome’ email that builds confidence in your chosen salon, and then following your visit you receive a personalised questionnaire asking about your experience. This is customer service at its best. Trying to do this consistently within the salon is a challenge, especially if you are using a paper diary. A salon software system with an automated marketing facility can free up valuable service time for you and ensure important correspondence is sent consistently to clients. New client emails together with ‘missing you’ messages, lost client emails and happy birthday greetings are all sent on a daily basis with no input from you – what a powerful marketing tool for any business! I speak from experience when I say that this kind of facility can have a big impact on your salon business. Maybe it’s time to add a little ‘magic’ to your client experience? Jessika Carrera Maybury, Head of Premier Salon
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE
WHAT OUR MEMBERS SAY... The NHF event on making your salon more profitable was incredibly inspiring. Being an NHF member is definitely money well spent! Debbie
I rely on the NHF contracts and chair renting agreements to make my business legally watertight. Richard Grizzle, Owner Foxy’s Barbers
Debbie Parkinson, Owner Innervision Hair & Beauty
An excellent return on investment. NHF gives us a voice in the industry. Otherwise there’s a risk that we’d be walked all over. David & Lynsey Baker, Owners The Vault Hair & Spa
I wouldn’t dream of not being a member. NHF provides me with upto-date information and a great deal of security. Jane
Jane James, Owner Evergreen Hairdressers
My membership enabled me to win my case in court and claim compensation.
Victor Pajak, Owner Headquarters Hair Salon
NHF has been our personal buffer in our first year of trading. Evelyn
Fiona & Evelyn Woolf, Owners Alexander Lawrence Hair & Beauty Studio
Find out how we can help you run a profitable and successful hair salon, barber shop or beauty salon
Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: email@example.com Read more member stories and testimonials at:
*Terms & Conditions apply. For full terms and conditions visit www.nhf.info
Shop The latest products, colours and services
Lacquer lustre Revamped and better than ever, the Colorgraphics Lacquer range from Matrix has five instant and intermixable shades – yellow, orange, red, magenta and purple – and one clear to help you devise the most creative colour services possible. Go bold or go home!
In-salon service 0800 387608 matrixhaircare.co.uk
e from sand with the Bamboo Beach rang Be ready for a summer of sun and go Man the of a arom er-heels for the tropical Alterna Haircare. We’re head-ov o. Coconut Refreshing Dry Shampo
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Breaking good Personalise your blondes with this secret ingredient – Joico Vero K-Pak Color Base Breaker with Quadramine Complex is available in original and cool and gets to work in just 10 minutes to leave hair feeling stronger and healthy.
In-salon service 0845 071 2326 joicoeurope.com
Wild things Daily delights
New from Affinage, Care & Style is a line-up of affordable everyday essentials that are colour-safe and free from parabens, waxes, mineral oils and sodium chloride.
RRP from £6.65 01794 527111 affinage.com
Mad about the soy With 22 benefits for hair all in one handy bottle, Healthy Sexy Hair’s Soya Want It All Leave-In Treatment is the primer that does the lot!
RRP £17.95 0161 406 9360 firstname.lastname@example.org
Subtlety be damned! Osmo’s semipermanent Color Psycho comes in seven outrageous shades – our favourite is Wild Fuschia – so release your inner animal.
RRP £7.99 email@example.com
Buy online Dazzling deals* this month at creativeheadmag.com
RAINBOW BRIGHT It all started with pink… now label.m has unveiled Powder Blue, Powder Purple and Powder Red Sprays for an instant pop of temporary colour. I can spray a rainbow!
WHEN 2 BECOME 1… UniqOne Conditioning Shampoo from Revlon Professional maximises foam to ensure a deeper cleanse of the hair, while its recipe contains one third conditioner for a nourished finish.
FEATHERED FRIENDS Inspired by the tropical tones from the Tom Ford, Matthew Williamson and Alberta Ferretti S/S14 catwalks, meet the ghd bird of paradise collection. It features the ghd V gold classic styler in two dip-dye finishes – sunset and lagoon.
RRP £9.95 each; Colour Makeover Set £15
0870 770 8080 labelm.com
020 7424 7829 uniq-one.com
0845 330 1133 ghdhair.com
In good taste
For hair masks that are good enough to eat, check out the Natural Care Masks from milk_shake – with milk, yoghurt, cocoa and papaya variations, tummies will be rumbling…
01392 365177 z-oneconcept.com
STROKE OF GENIUS
RRP from £17 01296 611731 biosthetique.co.uk
Go with the H2O flow Want to be a bit greener in the salon? Try the Vitalix shower head, which purifies and softens water and even reduces the amount you use.
Salon price: £49.99+VAT 0845 313 0032 firstname.lastname@example.org
POP HIT Color Wow’s Pop & Lock Shellac features innovative shellac technology that seals the cuticle to trap in color and moisture and lock out dryness. LOCK IT IN £14
Blending the best in ceramic and ionic technology with ergonomic design that’s super comfortable to use, La Biosthétique’s new brushes come in six sizes to ensure you always have the right brush for the job.
New to Aston & Fincher are YS Park combs, which feature a signature parting head design and are properly balanced to help you work faster. IN THE GROOVE FROM £9.55
*Online deals listed at salon price. Powered by Aston & Fincher
Perfect for summer hair, Moroccanoil’s Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner duo pack will keep hair hydrated and healthy. TWIN WIN £39.90
BLING IS IN A nourishing treatment with a pop of colour, evo’s Fabuloso Platinum Blonde repairs, adds shine, tones and intensifies colour... in just three minutes! GOLD STANDARD £21
Heathrow selfi e with Paul Simbler and Sean Daw son
In the zone cutti ng on stag e
We sponso red the Norwood Ladies brunch – a very worthy event
In Italy at Cosm oprof in front of 4,000 peop le
In the frame HOB Salons’ Akin Konizi snaps away SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadmag
Celebration s with our Japane se stud ent s
Our silver- winn ing TrendVision mode l!
Our man Sean Nola n at Tren dVis ion in Fran kfurt
A noth er qu iet nig ht in...
Pre paring for my next shoot
Our Lond on mod els, doin g their thin g
To discover what else Akin has been up to, visit creativeheadmag.com
Why did you want to become a hairdresser? I went with my mum to the salon one day while she was having her hair done and I just fell in love with the atmosphere and seeing how stylists have the ability to transform someone’s look.
What have been your highlights so far? Assisting on a Vivienne Westwood campaign and backstage for Marc Jacobs, working with Jamie Stevens and Matrix. I’ve been fortunate to style celebrities and work backstage on TV, too.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years? Hopefully still working with Jamie Stevens Hair and the art team, possibly managing a Jamie Stevens Hair salon, doing some session work and I’d love to be recognised for my Afro hair work.
What would be your dream hairdressing gig? Being the creative hair director for Beyoncé! I’d love to go on her world tour creating some amazing hair looks for her.
NAME: HARRY CASEY AGE: 21 SALON: JAMIE STEVENS HAIR, LONDON
•42_In The Frame 1
just got a whole lot cooler
Take your colour artistry to new levels of cool with ed stain by chill* 10 vivacious intermixable colours designed for boys and girls that dare to be different! Theyâ€™re bold and brash on their own or cocktail to create unlimited colour possibilities. Then style and hold with the chill* styling collection to reach beyond your creative potential and become the master of invention.
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chill* Tel: +44 (0) 1535 658499 Email: email@example.com www.chill.uk.com
ed stain by chill* 10 vibrant shades that last for up to 20 shampoos Hair and Photography: CreativeDnA
e d i s n I story George Northwood, London Editorial stylist par excellence – known for those signature cuts rocked by Alexa Chung and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley – George Northwood has finally set up his own little shop in the back streets of central London. Of course, when we say ‘little shop’, we mean achinglyhip hair haven that fuses vintage, industrial and friendly in one irresistible venue. The first flagship salon for Pureology, and designed by Trunk Creative, we adore the Herb House Hairspa (a private backwash) and welcome the ultra-practical Colour Hot Desk (ladies can work at the communal table during development time). The healthy tuck shop includes George’s Marvellous Medicine, a vegetable and fruit juice concoction that’s fabulous for healthy hair. The shelves are well stocked with sweets and books – it’s just possible we might never, ever leave…
Part of the newly launched Time for Design collection by Pietranera, the Zone chair and Zonewash (pictured) are all about extreme comfort. Our muscles are relaxing just looking at them… Zonewash from £1,475+vat 020 8903 0002 lsehair.com
The first UK franchise for Sanrizz, this sleek and modern Welsh outpost features chic furniture from Italian favourites, Maletti.
THE BUZZ Discover how you can raise your stylists’ and s a l o n ’ s p r o f i l e th r o u g h t r a i n i n g , c o m p et i t i o n s a n d p r e s e n t a t i o n s w i th S c h w a r z k o p f P r o f e s s i o n a l
Making the i r m a r k Y o u n g A r t i s t i c T e a m m e m be r s o n w h a t the y h o p e t o g a i n f r o m be i n g o n the te a m “I see this opportunity and the experiences that it will bring as a real career platform for learning new techniques and getting my name out there” S a r a h S c o tt , R a i n b o w R o o m i n te r n a t i o n a l
T r a n s f o r m y o u r l i f e a n d he l p o the r s w i th Sh a p i n g Futu r e s Want to raise your salon profile and make a difference to someone’s life? Janet Maitland, from Janet Maitland Hair Excellence, didn’t set out to raise her and her salon’s profile. But as UK ambassador for Shaping Futures – the Schwarzkopf Professional charity helping vulnerable young adults in India and around the world learn hairdressing – the positive press she’s received has been second to none. Janet first started her association with Shaping Futures in 2012 when she applied to be one of several volunteers, raising thousands of pounds for the charity and giving her time to teach under-privileged youngsters from the SOS Children’s Villages in India. As a career-long trainer, assessor and educationalist, Janet was the perfect choice for Schwarzkopf to appoint as its two-year UK ambassador for 2013 and 2014. Through Shaping Futures’ profile awareness campaign, Janet, as a by-product, has experienced many media opportunities both locally and nationally. “I look at these as opportunities to fundraise further for this amazing Schwarzkopf initiative. It is truly a labour of love,” said Janet.
“I’m really looking forward to all the opportunities and experiences this will bring and it’s a real platform for my career, so I can’t wait! J o e St o k e r , D a r e H a i r d r e s s i n g
“This is a great opportunity to get my name out there and show what I can really do. I love the seasonal trends with the Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks, so to have the chance to work with the brand and its high-profile hairdressers is amazing” G a bb i J o h n , G o l d s w o r th y ’ s
“Being on the team has definitely been a boost – my clientele love hearing what I’ve been up to. In terms of knowledge, I’ve learnt more skills to help me in the salon and I’ve grown in confidence, too” Me g a n T y m a , K i r b y B l y the
Want to get involved? Visit schwarzkopf-professional.com/ shaping-futures for details
•46-47__The Buzz 2
Schwarzkopf helps stylists leap ahead The nine members of Schwarzkopf Professional’s new training programme LEAP, designed for stylists aged 25 and over, have been revealed. They are: Will Eagles of Cream; Ged McCleary of Paul Gordon; Jimmy Sharpe of Jakata; Chris Tranter of Cross and Co; Siobhan Ramswell of Hensmans; Hannah Skinner of Tikadi; Anthony McMeiken of Janet Maitland Hair Excellence; and James Taylor of Barrie Stephen Hair. LEAP is a new over-25 Schwarzkopf Professional initiative designed to drive careers to the next level. The programme held its first monthly meeting at the Schwarzkopf ASK Academy, where the team received training on the new Essential Looks Style-Tec collection using the new Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Metallics and BC Care products.
“The Schwarzkopf LEAP programme is designed for those who are no longer eligible to enter for the Schwarzkopf Young Artistic Team. We felt that there was a real need for that next progressive stage of career building and so LEAP was born. We have a training programme involving PR, social media, presentation skills from Tim Hartley and Tyler Johnston, as well as international trainers Charlie Taylor and Andy Smith tutoring Essential Looks,” said Stephen McDowell, PPS manager UK and Ireland at Schwarzkopf Professional. LEAP member Jimmy Sharpe, added: “Charlie and Andy really know their stuff and the training meeting was a fantastic opportunity to quiz them. There was also a lot of great information on trend colour placement within the Essential Looks Style-Tec collection.”
Grab the spotlight for you and your salon with Schwarzkopf Professional. Call 01296 314000, visit Schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or search ‘SchwarzkopfProfessionalUnitedKingdom’ on Facebook
•46-47__The Buzz 3
Aveda Creative Head Ad - Left Hand Side Page Trim size: 220mmx285mm (width x height)
Aveda Creative Head Ad - Right Hand Side Page Trim size: 220mmx285mm (width x height)
UNLEASH YOUR ARTISTRY WITH INFINITE COLOUR
aveda full spectrum permanent hair color ™
Up to 96% naturally derived* customised colour. Essentially damage-free. Fade-resistant. Call Aveda at 0870 034 2380 *From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk
Catch-22 There’s no catch to Healthy Sexy Hair’s Soya Want It All – there really are 22 benefits for hair all in one handy bottle
It was always the challenge (a Catch-22, if you will); clients wanted their hair to look voluminous, shiny and smooth, while also protected from heat and humidity. Oh, and their hair needed to not only look healthy, but also be healthy from within – so a product that repaired, soothed and strengthened hair would be fab. Clients wanted all this, but they didn’t want to buy a different product for every single need. It was quite a dilemma – that is until Healthy Sexy Hair’s Soya Want It All 22 in 1 leave-in treatment came along. Containing a blend of soy, cocoa and argan oil, Soya Want It All has 22 benefits (yes really) for hair, enabling clients to get everything they’ve ever wanted from their hair and more. Trust the brand that uses Marilyn Monroe as its hair icon and source of inspiration to create a product that answers every woman’s dream and will help her unleash her inner bombshell! From detangling to smoothing, the lightweight formula is the perfect go-to product to treat and prime hair before blow-drying as it rebuilds and protects hair from roots to ends for beautiful, healthy looking strands.
the 22 Benefits ★ Thermal Protection ★ Humidity Resistance ★ Moisture ★ Nourishment ★ Body Building ★ Repair ★ Shine ★ Smoothness ★ Colour Protection ★ Detangling ★ Elasticity
★ Environmental Protection ★ Anti-Static ★ Anti-Frizz ★ Anti-Ageing ★ Soothing ★ Strength ★ Style Control ★ Damage Control ★ Lightweight ★ Priming ★ Damage Prevention
Let clients have it all with Healthy Sexy Hair’s Soya Want It All. Call 0161 406 9360 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
Alan Howard DPS 2
Alan Howard DPS 3
Marilyn Monroeâ„˘ and the Marilyn Monroe signature are trademarks of The Estate of Marilyn Monroe, LLC. Rights of Publicity and Persona Rights are used with permission of The Estate of Marilyn Monroe, LLC. Photo by Milton H. Greene ÂŠ 2013 Joshua Greene
BIG BOOST Amplifying, Texturizing Crème
A re-workable crème that answers the needs of ﬁne, thin hair that needs added volume and minimal product feel. Ampliﬁes, volumizes and adds bulk for the extra ego boost your hair needs. Provides long lasting volume, texture and deﬁnition with a 5 Hold and 2 Shine. Protects against humidity while holding deﬁnition to keep more precise styles and long-lasting texture while on the go.
For information please call: 0161 429 4387 or email: email@example.com check us out online at: www.sexyhair.co.uk
THe hottest events every month – get yourself scene!
Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock with Leigh Keates and Paul Lonergan
foray The Coterie paid a visit to the Scottish capital of Edinburgh, with a pop-up event in the city’s Fruitmarket Gallery attended by more than 100 local salon owners and their teams. In true Coterie spirit, the BaByliss PRO-sponsored event provided exclusive fashion insight from a host of stellar names including backstage tips from session star Claire Rothstein and Scottish salon owner Nelson Brown. The evening closed with a fascinating conversation between talent agent Paul Lonergan from Premier Hair & Make-Up and his newest recruit, Leigh Keates (the two first met at the It List 2011 Grand Final, where Leigh won two awards). Paul discussed how the decision to hire an artist is based on a combination of gut feeling and trust, while Leigh revealed how being available for unpaid jobs is part of his determination to treat his session career like a business. Wined, dined and departing with a BaByliss PRO Ultimate Styler in hand, guests left happy, inspired and wanting more.
Nelson Brown Claire Rothstein
Read more about The Coterie at creativeheadmag.com/events/the-coterie
Winner Crystal Stanley
Hot fuss DJ double-act Whinnie Williams and Zara Martin supplied the soundtrack, street food filled the famished and the bar was open all day long. When ghd launches a new tool, it does so a little bit differently, and the release of its new aura dryer was no exception. One hundred hairdressers from across the country descended upon the warehouse space at Tanner Street in London – home of the BBC’s Dragons’ Den – to try the dryer for themselves and see a styling workshop with ghd UK education ambassador Ken Picton at the helm. Stylists were invited to bring their own model and to use the ghd aura while posting reportage shots on Twitter and Instagram that appeared on the ghd ‘social wall’, too. The ghd team then judged the shots, with Crystal Stanley from Urban Retreat in London winning a place on the next ghd art team shoot, set to be art directed by Ken and photographed by Andrew O’Toole. We were feeling the heat…
Michael Young Sharon Peake Paul Falltrick
Music to our ears All aboard for Access All Areas! We caught up with Matrix artistic directors Sharon Peake of Ethos Hairdressing and Paul Falltrick of Paul Falltrick Hairdressing at the Manchester stop of the Matrix Access All Areas tour, with more than 200 hairdressers visitng The Point in Manchester to see stylists whip up stunning creative work that illustrated music genres such as Punk, R&B, Pop and Indie. Elsewhere on the tour, the crowd could catch Anne Veck, Ross Taylor, Marcus King, Hooker & Young, Jamie Stevens, Kieran Oâ€™Gorman and Alexander Turnbull. Informal, fun and filled with inspiration, everyone was buzzing with ideas to take back to the salon!
Taking advantage of Hairworld and Hair & Beauty 2014, the Wella Professionals International TrendVision Award Final was a little late in coming, but well worth the wait! Taking place on the stunning Wella stand at Hair & Beauty in Frankfurt, international guests gathered to swoon over the beautiful shows by Austria’s Bundy Bundy and Russia’s Dimitry Vinokurov, all the while entertained by hair showman Patrick Cameron. A new format was unveiled this year, with the national winners divided into Live Vision and Photo Vision competitions. And it was success for the UK, as Sean Nolan from HOB Salons secured platinum second place in the Color award of the Live final, while Lucy Tuck from Marc Antoni won silver in the Young Talent element of the Photo final. At the end of the show, Monaco was unveiled as the next host of the ITVA final on 23 November. Two helpings of TrendVision in six months? Bring it on!
Bundy Bundy show
Sean Nolan Lucy Tuck
Color award winners Platinum first: Iryna Fraiuk, Kodokan, Ukraine Platinum second: Sean Nolan, HOB Salons, UK Platinum third: Ben Lin, Soleil-Salon, Taiwan
Young Talent award winners Gold: Karina Grace Gollins, Karina Grace Hair, New Zealand Silver: Lucy Tuck, Marc Antoni, UK Bronze: Shauna McGrath, House of Colour, Ireland
Color award winners Gold: Tamás Fehér, hair’s[ku:l], Hungary Silver: Suppasan Kaewbanphot, Laksana Salon, Thailand Bronze: Glory Avilés, Bloom Salon, Puerto Rico
Live Vision Young Talent Platinum first: Taiwan
Young Talent award winners Platinum first: Kriz Chen, Hair Culture, Taiwan Platinum second: Lyndal Salmon, Biba, Australia Platinum third: Giorgio Parrivecchio, GP Parrucchieri, Italy
Live Vision Color Platinum first: Ukraine
Dmitry Vinokurov show
What can you do in 10 minutes? How about offering highlights or a cocktail of fashion colours? Matrix is reinventing the lunch break for time-poor women with its new Colorgraphics Lift & Tone and new Colorgraphics Lacquers
Matrix DPS 2
HIGHLIGHTS IN LESS than 10 minutes? Really? We didn’t believe it when we first read it either, but Matrix has made lunchtime highlights a reality with its relaunched Colorgraphics Lift & Tone system. The system provides up to six levels of lift in two to 10 minutes and, as the name suggests, this system lifts and tones in one simple step for personalised, bespoke highlights. This super-fast processing time enables you to double the number of highlights services done each day and recruit professional, time-poor women who are looking to fit their highlights around their busy schedules. The Matrix Lunchtime Highlights service was born! But Matrix hasn’t stopped there. The brand wanted to make sure you never miss a chance to keep a colour client coming back for more, which is why it’s launched the brand new Colorgraphics Lacquers range. With five fashion-forward shades to choose from – Yellow, Orange, Red, Magenta and Purple – as well as Clear Lacquer, clients will get hooked on all the different ways to express themselves as they keep coming back to change their look and experiment with the latest colour trends. The Colorgraphics Lacquers enable colourists to create unlimited, vibrant fashion colours and on-trend pastels through diluting the five vibrant shades with the Clear Lacquer – brilliant for the more adventurous client. The multi-tasking Clear Lacquer offers endless colour opportunities through mixing with the other shades and can also be used alone for a high-shine glossing treatment. Lasting up to 12 washes, Colorgraphics Lacquers offer clients the chance to change and update their fashion colour every month, making this the perfect frequency-boosting service for salons.
MY LIFE IN COLOUR
ASHLEIGH HODGES, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF FLAME HAIR STUDIOS, REVEALS WHAT NEEDS TO CHANGE WHEN IT COMES TO HIGHLIGHTS AND HOW MATRIX IS HELPING HER EXPRESS HER CREATIVITY
Creative HEAD: How have you developed with Matrix? Ashleigh Hodges: I was offered a place on the Matrix Education Team at the age of 19 and that’s really when my career took off. I won a place on Matrix Destination Fame 2012/13 and since then I’ve been an It List finalist for two years running and I finally hit my goal of being on the Matrix Artistic Team last year.
CH: Why do you think women should go to the salon for highlights and what would you change about the process to recruit more clients?
AH: Home kits have tried and failed. The only problem with highlights is the time issue: to do a professional service, clients can be in the salon for several hours. Women lead busy lives and are time-poor, so the Lunchtime Highlights service offered by the Colorgraphics Lift & Tone system is a great solution.
CH: As Colorgraphics Lift & Tone is twoand-a-half times faster than standard highlights, what would you do with that extra time? AH: More clients! Time is money, and if you can do a service in less time that means you can fit in more clients. Perfect!
CH: You were one of the first to try the relaunched Matrix Colorgraphics Lift & Tone and new Lacquers. What do you think? AH: The original Colorgraphics highlighting system is already a massive service in our salon, so when I heard it was being relaunched I was a little nervous, but it’s proved to be even better, and the Lacquers are amazing! They give you the freedom to be so much more creative.
For more information on Matrix or to find your local distributor, call 0800 387608 or visit matrixhaircare.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
Matrix DPS 3
The Library Space THE BIG IDEA
ONCE THE Tate Library, this neighbour of TIGI’s Bedhead Studio was snapped up by Anthony and Pat Mascolo as a creative space to house art installations and host events. Among the precious items on show are mannequins clothed in the costumes from many of TIGI’s most iconic shows (think Westwood and McQueen), as well as intricate recreations of Anthony’s most adored hair creations sculpted in copper by Yasemen Hussein. It’s wonderfully original and unconventional – in true Mascolo style – especially the installation of old-fashioned hair equipment and Anthony’s aeroplane wing desk. When can we visit?
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See more online at creativeheadmag.com Creative Head
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IT’S ALL IN SALON T H E AT R E
THE NEED TO CREATE THEATRE IN THE SALON IS GREATER THAN EVER. IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT A CUT, IT’S ABOUT THE PERSONALITY AND THE THEATRICS. BUT ARE SALONS GIVING A WINNING PERFORMANCE? ★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★
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Charles Worthington Chalk the Chalk
It has to be eye-catching. It has to be head-turning, literally. The flourish, the swish, the aroma… the stage is set for a spectacular performance to woo and thrill an audience; that stage is your salon. The high street is more competitive than ever, and clients are looking carefully at how they spend their money. They want to be seduced, to see something that captures their eye and makes them crave it for themselves. They want to feel listened to, engaged with, that they are someone important. The spotlight is shining on you – how are you going to deliver? This spring saw the launch of treatment cocktails and natural hair masks from milk_shake, and the preparation is arguably just as important as the result. “We mix the cocktails in front of the client, swirling their choice of colour or argan oil into a clear cocktail glass, squirting in the conditioner or a mask and mixing them together with a cocktail stirrer, leaving it ready to apply,” explains David Baker, co-owner of The Vault Hair & Spa in Surrey. “This looks really creative and theatrical and if the client can see what’s happening they will remember it and tell everyone.” But you’ve got to ensure your ‘cast’ is on board, too. “It’s about training staff in the right way to make the clients fall in love with the service,” agrees David. “Just make sure you spend a morning with the whole team and think about how, even in your busiest times, you can give the best service.” Sometimes it’s less about creating a ‘show’ but visually advertising how you can fulfil a need your clients have. Take the Four Hand Express Service at Taylor Taylor London as an example. To save clients time, the salon group has unveiled a super-quick service for highlights and Brazilian blow-drys. Clients have two stylists working on them at the same time, and slices highlights time to an hour for a price of £150. With those four hands working overtime and two dryers on the go, it’s a service that attracts attention. The salon group has also unveiled what it heralds as the UK’s first hair stencilling service at its Colour Pop Bar, a great eye-catching activity for clients to experiment with.
While the end result of a Color.id service from Wella Professionals is a unique multi-shade finish with no bleeding, the creation is a work of art. “Color.id is essentially a thickener, so once added to Illumina or Koleston Perfect, it turns the colour into a mouldable putty so you can turn the hair into sculptured forms,” explains Abby Smith, European technical artistic director at D&J Ambrose and a Wella Professionals Colour Club member. “It’s a fantastic talking point as it’s such a unique product.” It’s also had a positive impact on the salon because it’s an unusual and time-effective way to apply colour, which can be a drag for those stuck in the chair (and even sometimes for the colourist in a repeat cycle of foils or meche). “All of our clients are intrigued by what we are doing and they chat to each other,” says Abby, “so it creates a great salon vibe.” As festival season approaches, it’s a great time to start playing with temporary colours, too – a bit of baby pink can really turn heads in the salon. Clients at Charles Worthington are now presented with the Chalk the Chalk menu to choose the look they want to achieve, using Hair Chalks from L’Oréal Professionnel and the salon’s Neon photographic collection. Yet it isn’t just on the service side that customers are craving to see a little more flair. “I’ve learnt through experience that the biggest change in hairdressing is client expectations,” argues John Gillespie, founder of John Gillespie Hairdressing and a Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador. “Customers are used to shows such as the X Factor and Big Brother, where performance is everything.” When it comes to recruiting staff, John explains that what counts the most is “how engaging they are, how they win us over with their personality and convince us of how they’ll be great at engaging clients and keeping them loyal”. Clients come to the salon with an expectation: to be engaged and entertained. “Today’s successful stylists are a hybrid of performing salesmen, great entertainers and experts,” admits John. So, rehearsals are over – it’s time for your big show…
Illustrations by Marie Perron, courtesy of HAIRChalk by L’Oréal Professionnel
Savvy salons know that to delight clients and give them a cut or colour they love, they have to understand their locks and their lifestyle. Time to really get to know your clients…
AS THE MODERN WORLD seems busier than ever, there is a concept called The Overwhelm – a claustrophobic feeling of always being behind, scrambling to tick off jobs and duties from an endless to-do list in an ever-shrinking day. Getting time to visit the salon or even style our hair satisfactorily on a daily basis, can often be a challenge. Work, children, the gym, travel… our lifestyles have turned many of us into tightly coiled springs ready to snap! Any assistance a hairdresser can offer a client that will make a real impact on their daily lives will be grabbed with both hands – and could be the start of a long and fruitful relationship. “Increasingly, it seems to be more and more about timerestricted clients than cash-restricted,” says Peter Tobolski, managing director of Fresh Approach UK. “They are looking for products that fulfill more than one function or that provide a speedy solution to common hair dilemmas between salon appointments, such as visible root re-growth.” “Everyone’s lifestyle is a lot busier,” agrees Paul Falltrick, Matrix global design team member and founder of Paul Falltrick Hairdressing. “We see a lot of women who are looking for quick and easy products that will still help them look like they’ve taken a long time over their hair. The key to a successful recommendation is to always be honest with the client.” The salon has taken part in a new initiative by Matrix called The MOT Programme, designed to improve the consultation process and encourage increased product sales. At Electric Hairdressing, clients receive Lifestyle Consultations, and key ‘personalities’ the group has identified include working mums and gym bunnies. “It’s important to find out what a client’s long term plans are, if they plan on going travelling in the next few months, or are pregnant or planning on having a family, or are job hunting,” advises founder Mark Woolley. “Finding out what someone’s habits and hobbies are – for example using heated appliances or swimming regularly – will give you the opportunity to recommend and up-sell products to meet their specific needs,” adds Richard Hull, managing director, Salon Services UK & Ireland. “Local wholesalers, can be a great source of knowledge and advice for smaller salon owners.” So, take consultations seriously – the impact could be destructive if you don’t. “If you get it wrong, there is a strong possibility you will clash with the client and never see them again,” warns Angel Montague-Sayers, Sally Montague Hair Group art director, creative ambassador for Cloud Nine and 2013 It List It Girl. “It’s imperative you understand your client during the initial consultation. If you get it right you will gain trust and they will become a loyal and long-standing client.” Angel also encourages her clients to consider their dream hair, ensuring those moments before a shampoo are not just about how they wear their hair. “I discuss a ‘hair wish-list’ with all of my clients and make a list of four hairstyle ideals. I think choose the top two looks they can work towards through in-salon services and at home. This helps to highlight their lifestyle and personality, which allows you to thoroughly understand what the client wants from both products and tools.”
DANNI CARR, HAIR DESIGNER AT CLIPSO IN HEMEL HEMPSTEAD, IDENTIFIES KEY PERSONALITIES SHE SEES IN HER SALON THE JUGGLER This is a person who is always on the go, juggling work and home life 24/7. These clients are strapped for time, so they like to use dry shampoo for the days when washing your hair isn’t an option.
THE ECO WARRIOR These clients prefer to use organic and less harmful products. The Eco Warrior opts for L’Oréal Professionnel INOA’s ammonia-free colouring service in our salon. For when they are at home, they like to use Alterna’s eco-certified Bamboo Colour Hold shampoo and conditioner.
THE MADONNA These fabulous clients constantly reinvent themselves. The Madonna loves to change their hair colour and style on a regular basis. We always provide regular in-salon treatments to keep their hair remaining healthy.
es The Lifestyle Hero
For those who really can’t cope with more than one bottle, Healthy Sexy Hair’s Soya Want It All Leave-In Treatment is the primer with 22 benefits in one hit! RRP £17.95 0161 4069360
Keep shades shining on in-spite of all those early morning gym showers, with Wella Professionals Brilliance shampoo and conditioner. RRP from £9.70 01923 5957000
Affinage’s Glazer Shine and Protect is a light protective sprayon shine that controls flyaways, eliminates frizz and protects colour. Luggage will be empty without it! RRP £12.60 01794 527111
A blow-dry in a can for those who live in the fast lane, the Osmo Day Two Styler is a dry shampoo that absorbs excess oil and adds volume as it refreshes. RRP £5.30 firstname.lastname@example.org
The 2 Minute Root Touch-Up from Alterna provides a quick solution to covering up roots when clients just don’t have time to get to the salon. RRP £24.95 01925 578000
GO PL ACE ST
M U S
WITH R ME
CREATIVE H EAD ’S
THREE WEEKS OF PRIZES
! AWAY IVE
T A E R G THE mer suIm Y A W A E GV
For three exciting weeks this month, we’re giving away a host of prizes designed to expand your skills, allow you to experiment with new products and enjoy new experiences
WANT TO BE A WINNER? IT’S EASY! Visit creativeheadmag.com/giveaway for your chance to win more than £10,000-worth of new products, styling tools, education and experiences. Remember to come back each week to win new prizes! 68
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: PRIZE 2 4 3 £
CLOUD NINE WIN A BUNDLE OF CLOUD NINE PRODUCTS
Sample an exciting array of products, including the instant heat C9 Touch iron; the Waving Wand; Professional Paddle, Radial Boar Bristle Blowdrying and Dressing & Styling brushes; a heat mat, a set of croc clips and a bottle of Magic Potion.
WEEK ONE 2 JU
NE TO 8 JUNE
Visit creative headmag.com /giveaway to enter
: PRIZE 4 £23
WIN TWO PAIRS OF JAGUAR SCISSORS
This is a prize that will make you fall in love with hair cutting all over again. The Jaguar Grace combines a butter-smooth cutting action with superb comfort, while the unique design of Freak will give your work an unmistakeable edge!
: PRIZE 0 £55
WIN TWO TICKETS TO PARAMOUNT BUSINESS 1, 23 TO 24 JUNE, LONDON
*Course dates cannot be changed
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: PRIZE 0 0 1 £ Lisa Shepherd
Be inspired with two days of management training with Unite global education director Marcus Allen. Held in London on 23 and 24 June,* the course content ranges from Building and Retaining a Strong Team to Understanding P&L Statements.
: PRIZE 0 0 1 £
WIN TWO TICKETS TO A REDKEN NIGHTS EVENT
You and a friend can sit back and soak up two hours of design, colour and styling from either Francesco Fontana from Essensuals on 30 June in London or Lisa Shepherd on 18 September in Manchester* – both Redken ambassadors will present seasonal trends and their favourite looks with live demonstrations. *Event dates cannot be changed
WIN A BUNDLE OF ESSENSITY PRODUCTS
Essensity Care products not only prolong in-salon colour results, they create hair that is four-times smoother. This prize includes samples from Essensity Color & Repair for damaged or porous coloured hair, and Essensity Color & Moisture for normal to dry coloured hair.
: PRIZE 5 £99
WIN A TWO-DAY HD BROWS TRAINING COURSE
HD Brows is the UK’s leading brow treatment, an in-salon service that results in well-groomed, high-definition eyebrows. The winner will receive a two-day training course in July that will see them leave as a confident and fully accredited HD Brows stylist, able to offer the unique HD Brows experience in the salon.
: PRIZE 3 £43
WIN A BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE STYLING COLLECTION
This incredible prize will see you walk off with the entire Balmain Paris Hair Couture Styling Line – including Silk Perfume and Session Spray in Strong and Medium – as well as products from the Luxury Hair Care collection and Ionic brushes in 35mm and 55mm. C’est chic, non?
: PRIZE 4 £62
WIN A COLOR WOW STARTER PACK
Everybody’s talking about Color Wow, created by Gail Federici, co-founder of John Frieda’s hair care company. As well as iconic Root Cover Up, there are shampoos, conditioners, styling products and Shellac glosser. It’s distributed exclusively by Aston & Fincher.
WEEK TWO 9 JU
NE TO 15 JUNE
Visit creative headmag.com /giveaway to enter
WIN THE GHD AURA AND A PLACE ON THE GUIDE TO THE SEASON SEMINAR ON 13 OCTOBER*
Transform your blow-drys with a new ghd aura for luxurious volume and a smooth finish. Then you will head for ghd’s Guide to the Season workshop, to learn trends straight from the catwalk.
* Seminar date cannot be changed
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WIN A TRIO OF FUDGE HEADPAINT INTRO KITS
Headpaint from Fudge is a dual colour system so you can create permanent and demi-permanent results from just one range. These three Intro Kits – Ultra Light Blondes, Shadows and the Reds Collection – give you the chance to experiment!
: PRIZE 8 £27
WIN AN XTEND CLIENT STARTER PACK
WIN A SO PURE COLOR INTRODUCTORY PACKAGE
Keune’s So Pure Color is 100 per cent ammonia and paraben-free, and contains jasmine and sandalwood, so your clients enjoy a relaxing aroma while you work! Keune is giving away a So Pure Color Introductory Package, with 40 tubes of colour, developers, swatch chart, brush and mixing bowl.
Racoon International’s Xtend products keep hair extensions in top condition, ensuring your clients look salon fabulous. This exclusive nine-piece retail collection includes a complete hair care regime – shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, serum, thermal defence spray and specially designed brush and comb.
WIN A TIGI ACADEMY COLLECTION BOOK & DVD AND A TIGI MASTERBRAND COLLECTION BOOK & DVD
In the TIGI Academy Collection Book & DVD, the TIGI team shows you trend-led cut and colour techniques. Meanwhile, the biggest photographic project from Anthony Mascolo has created The Collection Book & DVD, showing how cut, colour and product are inherently linked. Required reading!
: PRIZE 1 6 3 £
WIN THIS COLLECTION OF TITANIUM EXPRESSION STYLING TOOLS
Titanium is the secret to faster, longer-lasting styling results; proven by this new range from BaByliss PRO. All the tools in your prize – the Titanium Expression Ultimate Styler, Waving Wand, Conical Wand and Deep Waver – feature Titanium Ceratherm System technology for outstanding heat transfer to the hair. And as if that wasn’t enough, we’ll even throw in the iconic Perfect Curl! Pack them in your kit and you’re good to go...
WEEK THREE 16
JUNE TO 22 JUN
Visit creative headmag.com /giveaway to enter
: PRIZE 6 £48
WIN THE ENTIRE SEXY HAIR RANGE!
Whether you want to create red carpet glamour or rock star style, the people at Sexy Hair have a product for you – this innovative range line is split into eight collections, each created to suit and enhance different hair types. But why choose one, when you can have them all!
Winners will be notified upon completion of each week’s giveaway. Full terms and conditions available at creativeheadmag.com CREATIVE HEAD
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GOT TALENT? PROVE IT! THINK YOU’VE GOT THE SKILLS TO WOW HAIRDRESSING’S ELITE? AUDITION FOR THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL ID ARTIST PROGRAMME
RECKON YOU’RE A CUT ABOVE the rest? Then why on earth aren’t you a L’Oréal Professionnel ID ARTIST? Since 2003, the programme has been finding and developing hairdressing talent through industry-leading education sessions combined with unique opportunities. The two-year programme is one of the most sought-after development and educational opportunities for passionate, inspired hairdressers with an eye for fashion. Anyone who becomes an ID ARTIST can expect to be coached by some of the industry’s biggest names, discover the latest product innovations, work backstage at shows and events and be the first to find out the L’Oréal Professionnel seasonal trends. For 2013-14, the ID ARTISTS were mentored by Dylan Bradshaw, Electric Hairdressing’s Mark Woolley, Haringtons’ Kathryn Dartnell, The Boutique’s Richard Phillipart and Tina Farey
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of Rush Hair on cutting and styling and Paul Dennison from Ken Picton on colour, before finishing their year working backstage on the L’Oréal Colour Trophy tour. There are two paths to choose from when auditioning to become an ID ARTIST. If you wish to apply for Styling & Cutting, you must be working at a tecni.ART stockist salon and then prepare a fashion-inspired total look model that takes inspiration from the A/W14 catwalk shows. For the Artistic Colour route, your salon must stock L’Oréal Professionnel colour and you must already be a L’Oréal Professionnel colour specialist. You must then prepare and present a live model that showcases your artistic and creative colour work, taking inspiration from the A/W14 catwalk shows. Now is the time to get yourself to an audition and seize the chance to become even better than the best.
WE WANT YOU!
L’Oréal Professionnel is on the lookout for 28 new ID ARTISTS. Auditions are taking place throughout June at the following locations:
10 June London
11 June Manchester 16 June Leeds 17 June Birmingham 18 June Bristol
TO BOOK AN AUDITION, CALL 0800 028 3448
“My presentation skills have improved so much from being an ID ARTIST. My confidence has grown too, and I’m a stronger allround hairdresser” EMMA HANSFORD, BROOKS & BROOKS
“I would recommend the ID ARTIST programme to anyone who is passionate about hair. It has given me opportunities I couldn’t have imagined”
“It’s the best opportunity to take your skills to the next level. You get to work with some of the most creative people in the industry”
JO GOSSAGE, STUART HOLMES HAIR & BEAUTY SPA
BETH MOWER, THE GALLERY HAIRCUTTERS
“The education days and the trend forecasting were amazing. It’s great being able to go back to your salon and share all you’ve learnt”
“The skills I have learnt have really helped me to develop and reach one of my goals of becoming a full-time educator”
“I loved working with the other ID ARTISTS. You learn so much being on the programme; it helps you grow”
MICHELLE FARMER, RUSH HAIR
NATALIE THOMAS, HARINGTONS
LAUREN ARSTALL, THE COLOUR ROOM
“The ID ARTISTS programme has been a great experience. In fact, I’m considering changing my name and auditioning again!” KATIE MORSE, KAREN CHRISTENSEN HAIR & BEAUTY
“As an ID ARTIST, I learnt how to become a confident session stylist. My highlight was working backstage at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy tour” KARIS HIGGINS, NICHE
FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT YOUR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECHNICAL CONSULTANT OR ACCOUNT MANAGER. OR VISIT LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK/IDARTIST CREATIVE HEAD
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Be seen by thousands of consumers
Vist layeredonline.com/ mysalon and create your account
Update your listing with your opening hours, the brands you stock, the services you offer – and more
Your salon can now be linked to editorial on Layered and searched by thousands of consumers
Enhance your listing now. It’s easy to do and
IT’S COMPLETELY FREE!
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Get clever. Get wise.
Johanna Cree Brown
It sold out long before guests assembled, so the energy was buzzing… the eighth annual Salon Smart – the business networking event from Creative HEAD, sponsored by Goldwell and KMS California – was brimming with inspirational icons, savvy seminars, wonderful workshops and an electric evening of mingling and tingling creativity. Busier than ever, better than ever – wish you were there?
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TIME TO MEET UP!
Nicholas Wood of Goldwell and KMS California
Meet & Mix is the unique opportunity to sip a glass of fizz and talk shop with creative and business innovators. This year’s star line-up – featuring Trevor Sorbie’s Johanna Cree Brown, The Boutique Salon and Spa’s Richard Phillipart, 2013 Most Wanted Business Thinker Caroline Sanderson and 3•6•5 Hair’s Ken West – were all on hand to provide business advice on everything from how to get the most out of social media to managing your work/life balance. Cheers!
SEE IT There’s so much more to see – check out our Facebook albums! facebook.com/creativeheadmag
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fresh thinking on business
Stargazing It was the perfect blend of business, inspiration and a soupçon of glamour, all at the impressive Park Plaza Riverbank on the Thames in London. Big names + big ideas = big love!
Following a three-course dinner, delegates got to sit back and soak up an electrifying creative presentation from the Westrow Artistic Team. They were joined onstage by creative director Steve Rowbottom, who discussed Westrow’s growth in the past 30 years with Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage, including the launch of the new Westrow House academy in Leeds. “We’re incredibly proud of what we’ve achieved so far,” he said. “Hopefully we’re proving that not everything has to be so London-centric, which is what it has been up until now.”
Mark Leeson shared four stunning examples of beautiful blondes from Goldwell, all dripping in couture. Jaw-dropping!
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#salonsmart14 Get online!
Daniel and James Galvin and Stephen Nurse
Want to see more of the Salon Smart 14 action? Check out our new site creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart
The Great Galvins
Salon Smart 2014 closed with an indepth interview with Jamie Stevens, the 33-year-old who’s enjoying stellar success in the public eye. Stevens, who wanted to be a footballer and had a trial with Manchester United before injury took him out of the game, talked about the loneliness he suffered when he took over his mother’s salon at the age of 18, and the driving ambition that has since seen him open a second salon in London, become a global ambassador for Matrix, and win fame on TV shows such as Gok’s Fashion Fix and the X Factor. Having flown in from New York to do the interview, Stevens was whisked back to the airport immediately afterwards. No rest for the wicked!
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Jamie Stevens with Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock
In a relaxed session on the Salon Smart sofa, Daniel Galvin OBE, together with son and style director James Galvin and operations director Stephen Nurse, lifted the lid on their company rebrand, with a new logo, website and plans to launch a new salon in London’s Kensington, as well as a new consumer product line. Their advice? Find a niche and own it. Don’t be just another salon; understand and define what it is you do that is different and better than anyone else. Go Galvins!
fresh thinking on business
“I turned “If you get products my into hands, problems you’re into two-thirds of the way solutions” Caroline Sanderson to a sale” Nancy Cruickshank Digital entrepreneur Nancy Cruickshank (pictured above), and Kate Shapland, beauty editor of The Telegraph Magazine, explained the rationale behind their new beauty retail concept, MyShowcase. Describing it as “Avon meets Space NK”, the two discussed the power of social shopping, where fun and sales go hand in hand.
Take a look at our mini movie of Salon Smart 14 now! creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart
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Winning everyone’s hearts was 2013 Most Wanted Business Thinker, Caroline Sanderson. The Ego Hair Design salon owner had everyone captivated as she shared her no-holdsbarred tale of a catalogue of mistakes that left her owing £11,000 to the taxman and with no salon manager. Her message? Turn problems into solutions by changing your mindset and using marketing as the key to success.
“Every single blonde is worth about £1,000 a year to your salon” Nicholas Wood “Two-thirds of all consumers want to be blonde,” said Nicholas Wood, president of Goldwell and KMS California in the UK and Ireland. He urged salons to take a holistic approach to their blonde services – such as refreshing your consultation and creating tiered menu options – and be clear on the benefits of your premium service. A blonde ‘profit calculator’ demonstrated the need to think critically about salon pricing, too.
“Where do I start? With the customer – always the customer” Andrew Cannon The fish farmer’s son from western Scotland, Andrew created his award-winning Ruffians barbershops “out of a personal frustration with what was available”. He demonstrated the strength of focus that has enabled him to create huge impact in men’s grooming. “Be picky and passionate about getting the little things right. If you ever think you’ve cracked it, give yourself a slap and tell yourself to start looking for more ways to improve!”
In great Creative Head
“Never call them a ‘junior’ – it isn’t positive language” Sean Dawson With more than 600 staff across 24 salons – 75 per cent of which are aged 25 and under – HOB Salons general manager Sean Dawson knows how to get the best out of young people. These pearls of wisdom got everyone scribbling: “From today, pour an equal amount of energy into retaining team members as you do in retaining clients.” “If you want an assistant, call them an assistant. Call them a junior, and that is what you will end up with, it’s how they’ll act.” “Empower the role, not the individual.”
Think Tank: It’s good to talk One of the most popular sessions with the audience, Salon Smart’s Think Tank is an opportunity for delegates to ask questions of an expert panel. This year our line-up included Nicholas Wood, Andrew Cannon, Nancy Cruickshank, and the bromance of the year, Sean Dawson and Steve Rowbottom, who kept the crowd in giggles with their quips and digs. Topics for discussion included the pros and cons of chair rental versus employed staff (“rent-a-chair is the devil,” warned Sean); whether Google AdWords were a useful marketing tool for salons (Sean doesn’t trust the yellow ad boxes on Google, while Andrew advises to keep it local); and how to know when to increase your salon prices (full columns and staff promotions are two great indicators).
The savviest salon owners shared the most golden nuggets of information and tales of perspiration with our avid audience. What did they have to say?
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Let’s get together
fresh thinking on business
Great ideas, great new products – and great food! When we all get together, something special happens…
No salon owner can rest on their laurels when it comes to customer service – it’s a vital part of every successful salon business. But a contented clientele relies on a first class team, which is why Salon Smart teamed up with KMS California to deliver essential advice and education on creating a perfect salon culture. KMS California global education manager Claire Wilson and business guru and salon owner, Nicola Smyth, co-hosted #ClientCulture – focusing on properly understanding clients and shaping a customised client experience – while Dawn Slater, senior manager in global sales education at luxury bath and beauty brand, Molton Brown, led the #TeamCulture workshop, sharing a raft of team – and brand-building techniques. Attendees were divided into two intimate groups for both the morning and afternoon sessions, enabling them to interact with the speakers and each other throughout.
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Salon Smart Masterclass
#salonsmart14 The winners take it all Julie Young from Serenity Hair & Beauty Rooms, Hastings, won a Goldwell Kerasilk Keratin Treatment introductory package, worth £1,260. Julie Goodwin from Jeff Goodwin, Exeter, won two places on the Insight into 3•6•5 Hair course, worth £239 each.
Working lunch Food, people, brands, buzz! Salon Smart attendees enjoyed 90 minutes of unique networking opportunities, plus fab food, at Salon Smart’s Working Lunch. Hosted by a line-up of leading hair and business brands – Goldwell, KMS California, 3•6•5 Hair, American Dream, Diva Professional Styling, LSE Salon Furniture, Millennium Software, National Hairdressers’ Federation, Scrummi Towels, The Hair Group and Viviscal Professional – attendees were able to work their way around the room, stopping to watch live demos, test-drive salon furniture and pick up tips from the experts. Goldwell also hosted an all-new Smart Hub, where guests could drop by and sample key Goldwell products, including its new Kerasilk range, as well as seek specialist advice from the brand’s representatives. And if that wasn’t enough, Salon Smart also held a competition to win a selection of prices courtesy of the Working Lunch sponsors. Who scooped the loot...?
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Katie Sprules from Mission Hair & Beauty, Newbury, won an American Dream micro-ring extensions training course, worth £350. Alex Curran from The Hair Lounge, Stockport, won a Diva Professional Ultima dryer and a Glamoriser Autocurler. Steve Hilliard from Steve Hilliard Hairdressing, Luton, won 1,000 Scrummi towels. Nicola Smyth from Nicola Smyth Award Winning Hair, Leamington Spa, won a six-month free subscription to Millennium Software. Paul Cook from Hair Concept, Banbury won a free ticket to any NHF business seminar. Samantha Spalding from Kennady’s, Billericay, won a LSE Salon Furniture voucher offering £2,000 worth of spend on Pietranera salon furniture at a 50 per cent discount. Gina Madgwick from Q Hair & Beauty, Chichester, won an opening order of Viviscal Professional supplements and extras, worth more than £900.
We owe it all to you! Yes, there were business lessons to learn, seminars to study and celebs on stage, but in the end the real stars of Salon Smart were YOU! You made us laugh, think, drink and remember why we all love hairdressing. Thank you, one and all!
Winner! Our favourite Salon Smart selfie, from the FAME Teamâ€™s Dafydd Rhys and Simon Tuckwell. Enjoy the champagne, boys!
Want to be part of it? Book your place at Salon Smart 2015 now! creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart/tickets
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E D U C AT I O N
The key to beautiful long hair Hair by Lorna Evans. Make-up by Joanna Blair. Photography by Owen Zhang.
Want to unlock the secret behind long hair styling? Award-winning hairdresser Lorna Evans will reveal all in her not-to-be-missed Secrets Unlocked workshop PICTURE-PERFECT long hair can be a nightmare when it comes to styling, but we’ve discovered the secret behind gorgeous long hair – and she’s called Lorna Evans. Lorna has been in hairdressing for 29 years and she has taken the world by storm in the past 18 months with her new Secrets Unlocked workshops. And this year, the Australian long hair expert and business coach is in the UK for a one-off special. The sought-after artist is staging a single, not-to-be-missed two-day workshop in London to reveal the secrets of long hair styling – allowing hairdressers of all levels to return to their salon with confidence and new looks and techniques.
ONE FOR YOUR DIARY THE WORKSHOP: Secrets Unlocked AIMED AT: All levels of hairdressers interested in long hair styling DATES: 13 to 14 October PRICE: £380 LOCATION: London VENUE: To be confirmed
ALL ABOUT LORNA
her first salon Lorna opened on ars old. Early aged just 21 ye g in yl st ir ha long she discovered ry st du d part of the in was a neglecte an th e or r skills. For m and honed he Matrix as a part of the w e 13 years sh s. am te n io at uc and Redken ed a ed ch un la a rn This year, Lo d – Bridal Secrets Unlocke . book and DVD
For more information about the Secrets Unlocked workshop, visit lornaevanseducation.com.au, email email@example.com or visit facebook.com/LornaEvansEducation CREATIVE HEAD
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Experience it all at the most spectacular gathering of Great British hair talent
Most Wanted and The It List
Grand Final 01/09/2014 7.15pm Tate Modern London
Call to book tickets
Tickets cost ÂŁ220 Table of 10 ÂŁ2,000 Limited number of VIP tables available. Call for more information
buzz on the most wonderful night of the year
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Hosted by Mr Jack Whitehall @jackwhitehall
factory Gianni Scumaci
A course and an ideology that can help you develop your own creativity; Salon I-Deas by JOICO will free your artistic boundaries and push you further than ever before
WATCH IT! See star stylist Gianni explain the concept in detail at creativeheadmag.com
WHAT IS SALON I-DEAS? “Salon I-Deas by JOICO is an educational concept with many elements to inspire, develop and support the salon hairdresser. The stunning and salon-friendly cutting, colouring and styling techniques have been designed with suitability, versatility and adaptability in mind. “It’s a course and an ideology designed for hairdressers of all levels of experience. In addition to a solid foundation, it features creative ideas and options for all types of clientele. “The techniques and ideas you will be working with can be thought provoking yet simple. Salon I-Deas by JOICO is about being receptive to the environment you are in, as inspiration comes in many different forms. We are all born artists, the challenge is to remain one.” GIANNI SCUMACI JOICO VISION DIRECTOR
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Feeling inspired? Turn over to discover how Salon I-Deas by JOICO is being received internationally and what the course means to the UK Creative Head
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Inspire Identify Individualise These three words are the key elements behind the international launch of Salon I-Deas by JOICO. Find out where the course has been and where itâ€™s going
The countries where Salon I-Deas has launched so far
Sw itz erl and
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Salon I-Deas by JOICO is arriving in the UK this month after becoming a huge hit throughout the world, changing how we cut and style hair for good. So why is it making waves? Salon I-Deas by JOICO is a concept that focuses on technique, not on look. It features four salon-friendly and commercial cutting, colouring and styling techniques. With input from Gianni Scumaci, who developed the cutting techniques, and Christy Blake, who worked on the colouring techniques, JOICO developed the concept with suitability and adaptability in mind. They can be easily applied to any individual, enabling the hairdresser to give a client a cut or colour that suits their lifestyle, hair type, face shape, personality, budget and daily routine.
Gill Berry, JOICO European Design Team member
“The great thing about Salon I-Deas is that it really is aimed at the salon hairdresser. All the looks are for real people and its real beauty is in the adaptability”
“I assisted on the shoot that led to the programme rollout – it’s great to now get out there and demonstrate the looks live on stage”
Jason Welch, JOICO European Design Team member
“These techniques can be used to produce fantastic editorial, they also have had the greatest effect on clients leaving the salon” Daniel Granger, JOICO European Design Team member
Now turn over to discover the four Salon I-Deas by JOICO techniques that have reached UK shores… Creative Head
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“I used typography for inspiration, choosing the letter L to complement the shape and movement of the haircut, drawing the eye to a focal point”
christy Blake, JOICO UK education manager
Just an ideal There’s something for everyone with Salon I-Deas by JOICO
“I was on my travels when I had the chance to observe some eagles flying above me. This set the idea in my mind for this cutting technique” Gianni Scumaci, JOICO vision director
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“This look was influenced by colour field painting, where artists treat the surface of a canvas as a field of vision without a central focus, working with pure areas of colour”
“The shape of a square can be seen from shoulders to jaw line. This natural masculine form is the basis of the technique” Gianni Scumaci, JOICO vision director
Christy Blake, JOICO UK education manager
Hair by Gianni Scumaci, JOICO vision director, assisted by Gill Berry, JOICO European Design Team. Colour by Christy Blake, JOICO UK education manager. Photography by Tomoko Nagakawa. Make-up by Emma Kotch. Styling by Diana Nagler.
See overleaf for the hair stars that are powering the Salon I-Deas by JOICO concept… Creative Head
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The faces behind it all Meet the JOICO European Design Team – your Salon I-Deas by JOICO experts
Gianni Scumaci was the visionary behind Salon I-Deas by joico but it was a team effort that took it from one single thought to a creative course that has so far been rolled out across 10 countries. Here are the freethinkers behind it all…
Gianni Scumaci Gianni started his love affair with hair from a young age and joined Sassoon as a teenager, where he became the youngest creative director in Sassoon history. Since then he’s styled Hollywood A-listers and worked with photographers such as David Bailey and Patrick Demarchelier on shoots for Vogue and Vanity Fair.
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Gill Berry Gill began her career early, before enrolling herself on a course at London College of Fashion. She studied under the late Joshua Galvin before winning Matrix Destination: Fame. She’s now an integral part of the JOICO European Design Team, regularly contributing at trade shows, seminars and photoshoots.
Ian Davies With more than 30 years of experience in the industry, Ian has worked on an international level as an educator, mentor and art team member for some of the UK’s most prestigious hair brands. Owner of Ocean Hairdressing, his energy and perfectionist approach sees him constantly testing creative ideas.
Opening his first salon when he was just 18 years old, Daniel has a real passion for hair. He’s appeared on TV shows such as Channel 4’s Great British Hairdresser and travelled the globe as a key part of the JOICO European Design Team.
As one of the co-founders of London’s Eleven Hair, Jason uses his skills to create new but wearable looks for clients. His talent lies in creating naturallooking colour and he’s been called ‘the go-to colourist for blondes’ by ES Magazine.
David murray Owner of Chameleon salon in Ireland, David Murray holds a host of awards and is a regular presenter at the Alternative Hair Show. His eclectic taste captures the beauty and essence of hairdressing today. And it’s his progressive and forwardthinking methods that have made him one of the industry’s most prestigious and established names.
You’ve read about the concept and seen the four looks – now it’s time to get hands-on and learn the techniques for yourself by going on a Salon I-Deas by JOICO workshop.
Inspired by Vidal Sassoon, Lewis’ detailed approach led him to join the Francesco Group and work as a guest stylist for Wella. In 2010 he set up his own salon and, now part of the JOICO European Design Team, his long-term goal is to grow his salon chain across England.
The three-day Salon I-Deas by JOICO workshops cover the techniques behind the four collection looks. Each day begins with an introduction of the Salon I-Deas by JOICO concept, a demonstration of the cutting techniques followed by a hands-on workshop. There are also explanations and demonstrations of colouring techniques, with each academy guest getting the opportunity to try out the techniques for themselves, before being shown the final demonstration of the blow-dry and refinement cutting techniques for each look. To find out the next Salon I-Deas by JOICO workshop dates in your area, contact your local JOICO distributor.
Ryan Nicoletti-Dowd Ryan’s hard work and passion for hairdressing has lead him to win numerous hairdressing awards during his 20-year career. He’s the owner of Wigg Hairdressing in Oxfordshire and is one of the original members of the JOICO European Design Team.
The Details Salon Concepts, Weston-super-Mare Call 01934 623129, firstname.lastname@example.org Lacey’s Hair & Beauty Supplies, Reading Call 01189 302338, email@example.com Alan Howard, Leeds/Stockport/Stoke on Trent Call 07709 483646 , firstname.lastname@example.org
For more information on the Salon I-Deas by JOICO national workshops, call 0845 071 2326 or visit salon-ideas.com Creative Head
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ONDS M L A D E R A G SU
S E IB V R E M M U S T E E SW
ON LIMITED EDITI
T N I M R E P P E P T SWEE
angleteezer.com .t w w w 8 2 1 6 4 7 2 Telephone: 020 7 TangleTeezerUK er ez te le ng ta @tangleteezer
Master the art of colour become the best of the best and grow your colour business with the Wella Professionals Master Colour Programme
To become a true expert in anything, you have to hone your craft constantly. A good colourist is experienced and knowledgeable, but a great one will know that there are always new skills to learn, new trends to keep up-to-date with and new ways to drive your colour business forward. Become a Wella Professionals Master Colour Expert and you’ll be among a select group that has achieved one of the highestlevel qualifications in the industry. The Master Colour Programme is a dedicated colour training schedule, which enables excellence in colour and gives you a chance to gain a fresh approach to colour.
Becoming a Master Colour Expert will help you to: • Generate loyalty, grow your colour business and increase revenue. • Develop and motivate your team. • Generate more PR by promoting your salon’s colour expertise. • Explore your creativity and increase your confidence as a colourist. • Become part of an exclusive network of experts and spend time with like-minded colourists annually as a Master Colour Expert at the Master Colour Congress. • Be the first to know about Wella colour innovations.
NEW FOR 2014! Once a Master Colour Expert graduates, the salon owner is invited to attend the new Master Colour Programme Business Building seminar, which is a day tailored to helping owners/managers maximise the skills of their new Master Colour Expert.
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TO FIND OUT the dates of the salon owner preview evenings, call 020 7637 7172 (London) or 0161 834 2645 (Manchester)
THE MASTER COLOUR PROGRAMME – STAGE BY STAGE STAGE 1: FOUNDATION Revisit essential colour knowledge to ensure you are prepared to start your Master Colour Programme journey.
STAGE 2: COLOURING Explore the science of colour and how to communicate effectively with your clients. Develop your creativity with hands-on colour workshops and get up close and personal with an industry-leading guest colourist and stylist.
STAGE 3: ADVANCED Spend a day with a guest colourist and stylist to heighten your colouring skills.
STAGE 4: HEAD BLOCK CHALLENGE Enhance your skills further in understanding the chemistry of colour and psychology of your clients and how to manage legalities.
PRICE: £2,220 INC VAT
WHAT IS INCLUDED:
SNEAK PEEMKas! ter
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• Salon owner preview evening • Four stages of the programme across 12 days • All products and education materials • Qualiﬁcation certiﬁcate and graduation pack • Master Colour Graduation event • Access to MyMarketing materials • New Master Colour Programme day for owners and managers • Membership to the annual Master Colour Congress
“The Master Colour Programme allows my colourists to be part of an amazing education programme. I now have six people who have been through it and it has increased my business revenue far more than the costs – I feel it was one of the best investments I’ve ever made” JAMILLA PAUL, JAMILLA PAUL HAIR & BEAUTY
ALL NEW MASTER COLOUR EXPERTS HAVE ACCESS TO A MASTER COLOUR EXPERT ONLINE MARKETING PORTAL – WELLA MYMARKETING. HERE, YOU CAN PRINT LOYALTY CARDS, WINDOW BANNERS, PERSONALISE MEDIA RELEASES FOR LOCAL BEAUTY PRESS AND ADAPT EMAIL TEMPLATES TO SEND TO YOUR CLIENT BASE Sign up now! Contact your Wella account manager or your nearest Wella studio: Wella World Studio London 020 7637 7172 or Wella Studio Manchester 0161 834 2645 101 83
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AMERICAN VOGUE BALENCIAGA MARY KATRANTZOU ERDEM KENZO TOPSHOP UNIQUE HUSSEIN CHALAYAN HAIDER ACKERMANN PETER PILOTTO DIOR HOMME PROFILE
JUST A FEW OF THE NAMES 2013 IT LIST FASHIONISTA ANNA CHAPMAN HAS WORKED WITH IN THE PAST YEAR. WHETHER LEADING AN EDITORIAL SHOOT OR ASSISTING ICONS SUCH AS EUGENE SOULEIMAN AND ANTHONY TURNER BACKSTAGE AT FASHION WEEK, ANNA’S IS THE NAME TO KNOW SINCE SHE SCOOPED HER TROPHY IN SEPTEMBER. SHE PUTS THE DRYER DOWN (MOMENTARILY) TO SHARE HER PACKED DIARY EXCLUSIVELY WITH US… 106 102
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en Men Paris M ondon//Paris LLondon
Models.com “I shot a fabulous casting story with photographer Haruki Horikawa, styled by Chris Benns. It was amazing to be commissioned by Models.com to do a story to celebrate London Collections: Men. All the guys we shot were top 50 male models such as Arthur Gosse. The hair was a cool, high-fashion London style but still a masculine look.”
“I assisted Anthony Turner at Rag and Bone at London Collections: Men, and then in Paris with Dior Homme, Kenzo and Damir Doma.”
OMG “Eugene Souleiman commented on one of my images on Instagram – amazing! And he started following me. This was a jumping-round-theroom moment for me! Having someone who inspires me so much leave a comment was just unbelievable!”
Mary K “L’Oréal Professionnel asked me if I could do the hair for Mary Katrantzou’s look book. It was an experience to work with such an incredible designer such as Mary, on top of that it was styled by Francesca Burns – stylist and fashion editor of Vogue – and shot by Adam Whitehead. It’s a day I will never forget!”
“London Fashion Week time! I assisted Anthony Turner at Topshop Unique, Preen, JW Anderson, Mary Katrantzou, Erdem and Peter Pilotto for S/S14.”
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“I do Paris Fashion Week every season now, I just love the buzz! I assisted Anthony Turner on Anthony Vaccarello, Hussein Chalayan and Kenzo.”
Stylist: Jason Leung. Make-up: Emma Miles. Manicurist: Ami Streets. Photography: Haruki Horikawa.
“I did the hair for an editorial for Linda Farrow – commissioned by the luxury eyewear brand to use for adverts and PR. This shoot was so much fun, it was great working with sylist Jason Leung. He sourced some incredible clothes for this shoot, designers such Erdem and Oscar de la Renta.”
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Styling: Samuel Gallagher. Make-up Kristina Vidic. Photography: Bryan Huynh.
“Below is my second editorial for Vision China, and the first time I’d worked with the photographer Bryan Huynh. As you can see, Bryan’s work is completely unique. The brief was ‘modern life statues’, so the models’ hair had to be sharp, masculine and strong. I used an old-fashioned drying technique to create the sharp square shape.”
Institute “I was rolling through Facebook and to my absolute surprise I saw that Institute had posted one of my images! I love this online magazine, it’s full of amazing imagery so it was such an honour that they’d pick my work. The internet went crazy with it and I received 6,500 likes!”
“Bryan Huynh is such a talented photographer! For this piece for Metal magazine, the hair was to portray a natural, sexy, sporty look. It’s great to bounce back and forth creatively with people, it really allows you to push your ideas further.” Styling: Santi Rodriguez. Make-up: Ariel Yeh. Photography: Bryan Huynh.
Fashion Week A/W14 “Fashion Week madness again! In London I was first assistant to Leigh Keates at Emilio de la Morena, sponsored by Cloud Nine, as well as assisting Anthony Turner. I love working on Anthony’s team – I love everything he stands for, his technique and style is just genius! In Paris, I assisted Eugene Souleiman for the first time – it’s been a life-long dream! I was super chuffed and it was everything I imagined it would be.”
“While out in Paris, Anthony Turner gave me the chance to do Anja Rubik’s hair for a portrait for American Vogue with Anthony Vaccarello! This was incredible – it was with photographer Ward Ivan Rafik, and fashion editor and stylist Azza Yousif. I styled Anja’s hair natural and soft, using a tong for a little movement.”
Volt “I also shot for Volt Cafe while out in Paris – photographed by Amar Daved and styled by Chris Benns. This was great as we were on location so we went for a sharp chic Parisian look with our model.”
ODDA “This shoot for ODDA magazine was brilliant because I had a chance to get creative with the hair... really pushing boundaries! We wanted to have a combination of Dior Homme (sharp chic) and Kenzo (’50s Elvis) and as the shoot got darker so did my hair, adding lots of product to make the hair really grungy.” Styling: Tomas C Toth. Make-up: Daisy Dee. Photography: Bryan Huynh. CREATIVE HEAD
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Flesh and bone Romantic texture takes the lead in this vision from Craig Chapman
Photography by Charl Marais
Hair Craig Chapman. Make-up Bethany Alderson. Styling David Hawkins.
Spun sugar textures and gallant
grooming are beautifully reflected in this collection from Joe-Yves Asmar Photography by Ingrid Sjodahl
Hair Joe-Yves Asmar for L’Oréal Professionnel.
Simple and pared-down yet powerful, DJ Victory captures a vision of modern masculinity
Photography by Devin Casper
Hair DJ Victory. Fashion 11
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Tired of surfing the net to find what you need? Here’s a nifty directory of websites that are worth bookmarking for future reference layeredonline.com
Layered is the new consumer site from the creators of Creative HEAD. For the first time ever, women can discover new ways to wear their hair – then immediately connect with the products, salons and stylists to help make it happen. Update your directory listing now!
For help with
The booklet “A Guide to the Health and Safety of Salon Products” is available at Alan Howard, Aston & Fincher, Capital Hair & Beauty, Sally Hair & Beauty and other good wholesalers. Or send your address and 4 unused first class stamps to:
The HBSA, Greenleaf House, 128 Darkes Lane, Potters Bar, Hertfordshire EN6 1AE
Keep up-to-date with all the latest happenings from the TrendVision competition. A wealth of education is available to access, alongside blogs, inspiration from top Wella stylists and a host of trend collections.
The L’Oréal Professionnel website offers you instant access to the world of e-learning. As well as Inspire TV, you can browse the Inspiration Gallery of looks, get detailed information on products or update yourself on the latest trends.
Explore the inspirational new hair trends, see the latest catwalk shows and discover the high-performance professional products as used by stylists and session teams all over the
To advertise on these pages call
on 020 8467 8884 or email
“It’s simply the best hairdryer I’ve ever had” Angelo Seminara Three times winner of British Hairdresser of the Year Award.
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STATE OF MIND FOR AMERICAN JENIFER PIETRZAK-TURNBULL, CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR SEXY HAIR UK, THE LACK OF REGULATION IN THE UK IS A REFRESHING EXPRESSION OF CREATIVE FREEDOM COMING FROM THE US, a country that’s extremely rigorous with the regulation of hairdressing standards, it’s a real eye-opener to be working in a place where there are no stringent requirements. I was shocked initially, but this sits alongside the knowledge that the top end of British hairdressing is reputed the world over for its creative excellence and innovation, which got me wondering. With a lack of a governing, state recognised body dictating what techniques need to be mastered and to what standard, does it mean that hair is a lot freer? In a way it’s self-regulated – and that’s refreshing. Salons can specialise and they’re free to go in whatever direction they want. They can experiment because there isn’t a required level to attain. In many ways, you could argue that this lack of standardisation means the bar is always being pushed higher and the result is individual and outstanding work all of the time. The key is that stylists here learn about creativity and expression early on; about bespoke hair to suit every single client and there are so many amazing training programmes provided by not only academies and hairdressing bodies but also the manufacturers. There’s a great culture of young stylists wanting to excel and to shout about it, too. In the US it’s more about gaining a technical foundation first – about ticking all the boxes so you have the qualifications in order to start earning a living; then you add on creativity afterwards. There are other limitations, too: I had to have a license in order to earn money as a stylist in the US, and needed to take separate licences for every single state I worked in – imagine the paperwork! That was on top of written exams and cosmetology school for more than a year before earning a certificate. I think of the hairdressing industry here as a painter’s palette – there are no set colours everyone has to use, and so the variety and combinations are endless! Jenifer Pietrzak-Turnbull is creative director for Sexy Hair UK
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