Creative HEAD January 2021

£4.50 JANUARY 2021

In print•online•everywhere! everywhere

JANUARY 2021 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

2021.

LET’S DO THIS TOGETHER

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BY YOUR SIDE AT EVERY STEP WHEN YOU LOOK for a partner in business, the same rules apply as when you look for a partner in life.

Someone who inspires and excites you… Someone you can also trust and depend on… A partner who is there for you through good times and bad…

L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has worked hand-in-hand with hair artists for more than 110 years, believing more than anyone else in your skill, your expertise and your professional difference.

At the heart of this incredible, enduring relationship: a collaboration between L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and hair artists to create exciting, pioneering products and experiences that drive women into your chair.

It’s this intimate relationship with the pro community that makes L’Oréal Professionnel Paris such a reputable brand among consumers – it’s a name they feel close to, that they too can trust.

And it’s all backed up with the unique style DNA of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris – a finger on the fashion pulse that injects excitement and newness into everything this brand does, says and creates. This modernity, this freshness, ensures your skills and your business are always moving forward – giving you a point of difference that continually attracts new clients to your doors. That's the perfect partnership.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

In 1909 Eugene Schueller invented a safe professional hair colour, and in doing so created L’Oréal Professionnel Paris – a brand that would always focus its expertise and research on professional hairdressers, a trade that Eugene considered an art form.

When he started out Eugene was supported by 50 hairdressers, testing his formulas, assessing product performance and participating in workshops. Today, more than 1.5 million hairdressers around the world are part of the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris community.

Now, more than ever, hairdressers are a crucial part of the community, you only had to see the clients flocking back to their stylists after the first lockdown to know that. Working together with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, you can achieve the kind of physical and emotional transformations that boost self-confidence and pride in your clients. Isn’t that what being a hairdresser is all about?

Eugene Schueller, founder, L’Oréal

“WHAT WE LOOK TO ACHIEVE IN OUR LABS IS TO MAKE YOUR JOB EASIER. I WANT YOU TO KNOW THAT L’ORÉAL IS ENTIRELY AT THE HAIRDRESSER’S SERVICE” Eugene Schueller, founder, L’Oréal

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SMOKY HAIR: A NEW COLOUR STORY YOUR CLIENTS WILL LOVE 001_CoverLPNJ.indd 5

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

INTRODUCING THIS SEASON’S TREND FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOUR – INSPIRED BY THE CLASSIC MAKE-UP TECHNIQUE, ‘THE SMOKY EYE’. TIMELESS, EXPENSIVE-LOOKING AND CONTINUALLY COVETED, SMOKY HAIR BY LʼORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS IS FOR ALL WOMEN, ALL HAIR COLOURS AND ALL HAIR TYPES

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FROM MAKE-UP TO HAIR COLOUR INJECT NEW LIFE INTO YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS THIS JANUARY WITH A NEW L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS COLOUR TECHNIQUE THAT’S PERFECT FOR EVERY CLIENT L’Oréal Professionnel Paris brings the classic Smoky Eye make-up technique to hair colour. Just like in beauty, Smoky Hair is all about the seamless blend and smudging of colour tones, using a darker shade at the root combined with reflective lights on the lengths and ends. This multi-dimensional, sophisticated finish – requiring a perfect gradient that only professional hairdressers can deliver – is versatile, on-trend and suitable for every client, with a complete colour palette of warm and cool colour possibilities to create truly bespoke and personalised results.

Start the Smoky Hair conversation using the Style My Hair Pro app from L'Oréal Professionnel Paris, available to download free of charge onto your smartphone or tablet. A new Smoky Hair filter on the innovative 3D virtual makeover tool allows your client to ‘try on’ different versions of the look, helping you to decide their perfect shade.

FOR A SEAMLESS COLOUR BLEND, INSPIRED BY THE SMOKY EYE

ROOTS

Majirel Cool Cover 5.1 + 20vol oxydant

MID-LENGTHS

NEW! ¾ Majirel Cool Cover 7.82 + ¼ Majirel 7.12 + 20vol oxydant

ENDS

NEW! ¾ Majirel Cool Cover 9.82 + ¼ Majirel GLOW L.22 + 20vol oxydant

RESULT COOL & IRIDESCENT MOCHA

TO DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE SMOKY HAIR TECHNIQUE, HEAD ONLINE TO LOREALACCESS.COM WHERE YOU’LL FIND THE WEBINAR ‘HOW TO CREATE SMOKY HAIR’

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL * Instrumental test shampoo+conditioner

Seal this Smoky Hair service with Serie Expert Vitamino Color Acidic Sealer from L’OrÊal Professionnel Paris. This luxurious liquid in-salon treatment locks in colour and delivers a top coat of shine right after application. After the Smoky Hair service, shampoo the hair twice and apply the Acidic Sealer to the mid-lengths and ends.

Emulsify and rinse immediately. The Acidic Sealer treatment has PH 4.5 technology, meaning the hair is rebalanced after the colour service and the colour is locked in for longer. When used with the Vitamino Color haircare range, colour is protected from fading for up to eight weeks.*

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GROWTH MIND-SET

NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO RE-IMAGINE THE FUTURE FOR YOUR BUSINESS, COMPLETE WITH NEW IDEAS, NEW TOOLS AND NEW EXPERIENCES FOR YOUR CLIENTS, COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS The world is changing, and so can you. Despite the uncertainty there are things you can take control of, you and your fellow pros can adapt to the new reality. Digital innovation is remoulding the professional hairdressing industry, with new ways to target potential customers through multiple online and offline channels at any time of the day or night. So seize the opportunity to excite and delight your clients with new thinking and new technologies developed exclusively for hair professionals by L’Oréal Professionnel Paris.

REINVENT YOUR CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE

INTERACTIVE CONSULTATIONS

The Style My Hair Pro consultation app is an exciting technology developed by L’Oréal Professionnel Paris to transform your hair colour consultation. Inspire your clients with customisable moodboards of trending hair looks before creating a fully customised new hair colour look that your client can ‘try on’ in real time. There's also a digital swatchbook with technical guides so you can always find the perfect shade.

Salon Emotion

Style My Hair Pro consultatio

n app

Modernise your salon space and elevate the customer experience with Salon Emotion, an exclusive seven-step programme that will enable you to entice new and existing clients. It breaks down the salon experience into four key pillars of physical, digital, emotional and sustainable transformation. It involves redesigning your salon to ensure clients are comfortable and safe; connecting you with a wider reach of consumers and platforms; building strong relationships with consumers; and giving you a greener future by reducing your environmental impact.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Access

NEW TOOLS TO MAXIMISE EFFICIENCY

Hellen Ward

Education is the foundation of your business. With Access (lorealaccess.com), the innovative online learning destination created by L’Oréal Professional Products Division, you now have a wealth of exciting and inspirational ‘by pros, for pros’ education at your fingertips, co-developed with top hair artists.

Log on wherever you are at any time, and you’ll be part of a community of 40,000+ hair pros with access to everything from product launches, digital upskilling and trend discovery to technique mastery, business development and much more.

And you can even use Access to book into courses at your local academy!

Enjoy 24/7 ordering with special offers and next-day delivery options. Available for multi-uses, with different permission levels and auto-save baskets.

L’ORÉAL BUSINESS PLUS This marketing platform for hair pros delivers digital toolkits to help you engage with your clients on social media. Just a single click opens a wealth of assets – product shots, model images and lifestyle imagery that consumers will love. You can even order personalised print materials for your salon!

Search L’Oréal Business Plus and unlock…

GET YOUR FINANCES IN ORDER

“Consumer behaviour has changed drastically – thinking fluidly and adapting your business model has never been more important,” says Hellen Ward, leading salon director and co-founder of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa. That’s why she’s developed the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Business Rescue finance bootcamp for salons and freelance hairdressers. The webinar delivers four key points to help you manage your finances, get more clients in your chair, build your brand and create a business game plan.

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SLICK – SALON DIARY SYSTEM

Stress-free salon software built by salons, for salons.

Streamline your bookings and grow your business from just £10 per month, including free SMS appointment reminders.

No set up fees, no contract: sign up today!*

*Information provided by Slick at the date of publication of this article. Visitgetslick.com for full details.

Slick is one example of such services, you should conduct your own research.

A NEW WAY TO LEARN

L’ORÉAL PARTNER SHOP

#STRONGERTOGETHER @LOREALPRO 08/12/2020 12:10

LET’S WORK TOGETHER

2021 WILL BE VERY CHALLENGING, BUT WE BELIEVE MAINTAINING A STRONG LOYALTY TO OUR TEAM AND PARTNERSHIP WILL ALLOW US TO CONTINUE TO THRIVE. THE SUPPORT WE RECEIVE FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS IS INTEGRAL TO THIS PROCESS” KEN EASTWOOD, KENNADY’S

“HAVING L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS – AND I MEAN ALL THE GREAT PEOPLE WITHIN NOT JUST THE BRAND – BY MY SIDE HAS BEEN INVALUABLE IN TERMS OF MY ARTISTIC GROWTH AND THE CONTINUED SUCCESS OF MY BUSINESS” ANDREW MULVENNA, ANDREW MULVENNA HAIR

“THE INNOVATIVE OPPORTUNITIES ON OFFER FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS HAVE REALLY HELPED US BUILD CAREERS FOR OUR TEAM”

“PEOPLE MAKE A BUSINESS AND I HAVE A FANTASTIC RELATIONSHIP WITH SO MANY OF THE PEOPLE AT L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS. BEING ALIGNED WITH THE BRAND FOR SUCH A LONG TIME IS REALLY POWERFUL AND I HAVE MET SO MANY OTHER SALON OWNERS WHO HAVE ALSO BEEN A GREAT SUPPORT AND SOUNDING BOARD – ESPECIALLY IN MOMENTS LIKE THESE” SALLY MONTAGUE, SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP

ANGIE DROMGOOLE, ZEBA HAIRDRESSING

“L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS IS ALWAYS THERE FOR YOU. THE AMAZING GUIDANCE, SUPPORT AND CUSTOMER CARE HAS BEEN SECOND TO NONE” GUY KREMER, GUY KREMER SALONS

“TO HAVE A PARTNER LIKE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS IS INVALUABLE. THE PRODUCTS DELIVER EVERY TIME, FROM STYLING TO HAIRCARE AND COLOUR. AND THE EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMMES ARE VITAL TO KEEP MY TEAMS UP-TO-DATE” PAUL HESSION, HESSION HAIRDRESSING

Partner with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and it will work with you to understand your business, the challenges you face and the opportunities that will help you achieve your goals. You’ll be assigned a Business Partner, who’ll put together a bespoke business plan to help you grow. Your Education Consultant will arrange a complimentary education evaluation, advising you on the best transition for your salon, including an online/offline personalised programme. And there will be opportunities for in-salon training in the five key growth levers: growing haircare sales, growing treatments, growing your colour business, growing new client numbers and growing the frequency of visits. This personalised partnership will help you upskill, develop and be inspired – and it’s designed just for you.

TEAM WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS IN 2021. FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 0800 030 4034 (UK) OR 1800 535 616 (IRELAND) 001_CoverLPNJ.indd 11

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£4.50 CHRISTMAS 2020

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CHRISTMAS 2020

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20TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2020

OCTOBER 2020

TEXTURE AND NATURE,

IN ALL THEIR GLORY

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The first 20 new Creative HEAD Club members will receive a set of six Manic Panic Professional Hair Colors, worth £42.* Colours include Solar Yellow, Serpentine Green, Blue Bayou, Divine Wine, Smoke Screen and Pink Warrior.

Manic Panic Professional Hair Color is a semi-permanent, gel-based hair colour and is 100 per cent vegan.

Already a Creative HEAD Club member? Then we’ve got something for you too! One lucky member will win a Deluxe Pro Colour Starter kit, as well as more colours and tools, worth £250!

*For the first 20 new members to sign up between 1 January and 31 January 2021. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered. **Selected events only, for more details contact events@alfol.co.uk

£4.50 OCTOBER 2020

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CLUB

07/12/2020 14:25

When clients miss out on an appointment

When clients book online

Get ready for your bookings to take off Now is the perfect time to set up online appointment booking with Timely!

Stagger your appointment start times, add padding time for cleaning after each client, and take part or full online deposits to secure your bookings.

Plus, Timely has all the tools and support you need to manage and grow your business post lockdown. Keep track of your clients for contact tracing, host pre-service consultations online, and customise your client communications.

Our UK based team has you covered.

Talk to us: +44 20 3808 0465 gettimely.com

Introducing the ďŹ rst high performance cordless wand.

Powered by lithium-ion with ground-breaking Micro Heating Matrix technology formed precisley to the shape of the barrel. Giving consistent, even heat for eortless curl formation and lasting results, whether you're in the salon, backstage or on set.

Editor’s letter

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46

70 AS I WRITE this letter, salons across the nation have re-opened, working that Christmas rush in altogether different circumstances to previous festive seasons. There will have been a collective sigh of relief as this ‘fire breaker’ of a lockdown didn’t extend beyond the planned period (although Northern Ireland initially experienced only a brief reprieve) but what of January and beyond? Only 39 per cent of businesses are “just about breaking even”, according to the NHBF’s latest State of Industry survey, and a lack of proactive measures that were afforded the hospitality industry hasn’t helped. Zero VAT cuts for us, no “Eat Out to Help Out” style incentive scheme. It’s why I felt strongly that those who have been working hard to help hairdressers and barbers be applauded – turn to page 28 and meet our Heroes of Lockdown, fighting to Chop the VAT or uniting salon owners to share essential business nous. And while we push government hard to properly acknowledge and support our industry, these stars are there to help, support and amplify your voices. Tough times might lay ahead; but let’s keep fighting together.

Amanda Nottage Editor

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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JOIN US!

2021, it’s a new dawn, it’s a new day and we’re raring to go!

Kicking it all off is the second instalment of Self/Styled Sundays, our virtual event dedicated to self-employed and independent hairstylists.

Mark 24 January in your diary, as we’ll be bringing education, conversation and creativity to you LIVE (see page 34). Looking for an inspiring listen? Then tune in to our complete The Root of It podcast series (see page 36). Now, it may be late, but it’ll be WORTH THE WAIT! The Most Wanted and The It List 2020 Grand Final is coming on 29 March – and we’re celebrating our 75 fabulous Most Wanted finalists here (see pages 46 to 51)!

Can you feel the electricity building? creativeheadmag.com/events

@creativeheadmag

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January

WHAT’S INSIDE 28

ON THE COVER L’Oréal Professionnel Paris

PIECE OF THE ACTION

Darren Webster keeps his guys fresh and modern in this Mr. Q collection

HEROES OF LOCKDOWN These hair crusaders have been working hard to keep the industry moving forward

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YOÜ AND I

The steps you can take to make your salon a haven

EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

DEBORAH MURTHA

ART DIRECTOR

ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT

SPECIAL PROJECTS ASSISTANT

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

KELSEY DRING

NICK JABBAL

ALISON ROWLEY

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

ADAM WOOD

LAURA TUCKER

BELLA PETERS JENNY BROOKS

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

DIGITAL DESIGNER EVA VESTMANN

creativeheadmag.com

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We talk to Lady Gaga’s mane man about working at the pinnacle of creativity with the star

Shutterstock

SAFE SPACE

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Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, PO Box 289, Hexham, NE46 9HJ 01434 610416 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

10/12/2020 10:39

BRING ON PREPARING FOR SALON SUCCESS WITH PHOREST! Preview 2021’s most exciting salon technology Learn how to check your online health score Motivate and grow your team’s productivity Get early access and beat the competition!

Very special guest speaker

RAISE YOUR GAME > RAISE YOUR TEAM > RAISE YOUR RESILIENCE

Join us virtually for the online event of the year!

MONDAY 25TH JAN. 2021 | 10am - 12.30pm Scan the QR code to secure your ticket or go to www.phorest.com/gb/uplift2021

The edit R INDUSTRY THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOU

SALONS WIN CLIENT CONFIDENCE DESPITE UNCERTAINTY

ONLY TWO IN FIVE SALONS are ‘just about breaking even’, while more than half have cut staff hours to save costs. These were among the findings in the annual ‘State of Industry’ survey from the NHBF. About 62 per cent of respondents could not be sure their businesses would survive until the end of the financial year in 2021, with 18 per cent of those explicitly sure they would have to close before the end of the financial year. While many businesses, both salon-based and self-employed, had accessed government financial help, one in 11 (9 per cent) revealed they had received no financial support at all since restrictions began last March. They cited reasons such as businesses being less than a year old, not being self-employed for the eligible amount of time, or being director of a limited company. For more information on the survey, turn to page 19.

However, salons appear to be winning the fight for client confidence. Salon review site salonspy has revealed that, in partnership with Wella Professionals, it asked salon clients: “Did hygiene standards make you feel safe in the current environment?”, as part of review questionnaires between 4 July and 18 October 2020. Of the 33,160 responses, an impressive 32,865 replied “yes”, more than 99 per cent. This data was then shared with the government and, according to salonspy, was “integral in helping Chancellor Rishi Sunak make the decision to detach hair and beauty salons from the hospitality sector”, when applying revised restrictions.

FOR MORE INFORMATION about creating a safe salon, turn to page 62

Revealed! New Wella GenNOW Team THE LATEST RECRUITS to the Wella Professionals Generation NOW Team have been revealed. They are, pictured clockwise from top left: Aisling Kenny (House of Colour), Danielle Boler (NJUK), Sophie Kinlock (McIntyres), Tarin Scott (Hazel & Haydn) and Emily Worboys (Hair Lounge 47). The new squad is set to embark on an 18-month programme directed by award-winning mentor and former GenNOW Team member, Luke Benson. The GenNOW Team is also celebrating 10 years of giving rising stars a platform for their work, education, mentorship and support. “I think we have discovered some incredible new hairdressing talent in the making,” said Luke. “I am really looking forward to the creative journey with this team.”

Eco-ethical and professional, new weDo offers vegan, cruelty-free and 100 per cent recyclable products, with a minimalist formula. The brand has now become the unofficial ‘eco lab’ of Wella, sharing knowledge and pushing for positive change across the entire business. It also boasts an exclusive partnership with Plastic Bank, which ensures that for every weDo product sold, eight plastic bottles will be collected from the environment.

weDo.co.uk

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#CHedit

It’s Veganuary for Aveda ECO FAVOURITE AVEDA has revealed that all of its haircare, colour, body care, make-up and fragrance products are now 100 per cent vegan.

It has also named British-American model and climate activist Arizona Muse (pictured) as a global advocate for sustainability, who will help educate on sustainable choices, drive conversations with other thought leaders and share sustainability news on behalf of Aveda.

The brand has been cruelty-free since it began in 1978 and has made the move to ensure all products available through its 9,000-plus Aveda partner salons are now completely free of animalderived ingredients, such items include beeswax, honey, silk, keratin, collagen and carmine.

98%

of hair and beauty businesses have introduced new ways of communicating with their customers as a result of the pandemic, according to Yell Business.

It’s report also found 74 per cent of hair and beauty businesses stated that instant messaging is key for business success post Covid-19.

Phorest launches video consultation

CONSUMERS WANT GREENER PRODUCTS

PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE has added video consultations to its platform in response to Covid-19. This joins other new tools such as online gift cards and retail, as well as a live webchat functionality, all to help salons during the pandemic. Video consultations allow salons to book faceto-face appointments, sell retail with a professional consultation remotely, book clients in for treatments and appointments, and connect with any client on their mobile devices.

A WHOPPING 91 per cent of consumer want less packaging with beauty products, while 88 per cent want refill options. Those are some of the findings from the British Beauty Council’s new sustainability report, which calls on the industry to collaborate through what it calls a Sustainable Beauty Coalition. According to The Courage to Change findings, consumers’ top concerns included confusion over which products could be recycled, high use of plastics, cruelty to animals and ocean pollution.

SALON THAT DEFIED LOCKDOWN FORCED TO CLOSE

SINEAD QUINN, OWNER of Quinn Blakely in Bradford, was forced to shut her premises after opening repeatedly during the second lockdown and racking up an initial total of £27,000 in fines. She continued to open her salon in November, quoting the Magna Carta, the royal charter of rights from 1215, in defence of her actions. The closure notice, brought by Kirklees Council under the Anti-Social Behaviour, Crime and Policing Act 2014, means access to anyone other than a person who lives in the building or occupies it, is prohibited. After consultation with West Yorkshire Police, the council reduced the fines to £17,000.

CREATIVE HEAD

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MY month

AHEAD

What January has in store for...

TERRY WILSON HAIR ORGANICS

We’re focusing on marketing to our existing client base.

I always say that 20 per cent of your top clients bring in 80 per cent of your money.

As well as our two salons, we have a popular range of organic hair products so I’ll be looking at new ways to market those. And we’ll continue our popular staff chats on Instagram, too.

SYD HAYES QCUT

I’m aware of the damage that we are doing to our environment and the planet, so during lockdown I decided the salon needed to change.

We are now proud members of Green Salon Collective and we will be implementing new recycling routines for everything from hair to foils.

JOSH DENHOLM REILLY DENHOLM

The New Year brings new opportunities but also time to reflect. I’ll be preparing for our team day to celebrate our 2020 accomplishments, and set them up with forwardfocused plans and future educational opportunities. I’ll also be working with John Paul Mitchell Systems to launch the new Grounded 2 collection.

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Clients looking for a more natural result will love Wella Professionals Grey Blending, including a bible stuffed with step-by-steps and campaign images from Wella Professionals ambassador colour, Robert Eaton.

Hospital grade disinfection for salons, Disicide from Hair Tools is vegan, environmentally-friendly and alcohol-free. The range includes sprays, wipes and jars, and its Plus+ range can be used on porous surfaces as well as textiles and leather.

SALON PRICE £4.95 +VAT 01924 466 999 hairtools.co.uk

wella.co.uk

Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team

POWDER IN-SALON SERVICE, STYLING RRP £26.99 EACH 0845 659 0011 salon-success.co.uk

IN-SALON SERVICE 01642 867 213 remicachet.com

IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 601 8128

Fresh from Guy Tang’s #MyDentity comes #MyHero Collagen Powder, an additive that helps prevent damage and maintain hair strength. There are more goodies in his styling collection, too – #MyThiccBody Spray, #MyQuickBlow Spray, #MyStardust Spray, rose gold shimmery #MySpotlight Spray and #MyControl Spray.

Remi Cachet has added three new root stretch colour mixes to its Elegance hair range.

Check out its colour sample service to help clients find the perfect match, too!

Blonde clients are the backbone of your colour business, and they are constantly on the hunt for care and styling goodies that are going to keep that lighter tone looking fresh and healthy. Well, this might get their attention. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Serie Expert Blondifier Leave-in Resurfacing Balm is proven to help reduce hair breakage by up to 86 per cent. Boom!

This lightweight balm works to seal, resurface and restore the strength of hair fibres following any lightening service, and it has the added benefit of heat protection, too. Simply heavenly for highlights, this leave-in lovely will keep your blonde clients smiling and your work looking extra for longer. Job done.

RRP £16 0800 030 4034

Airy Texture Spray from AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT is a dry texturising spray, designed to create tousled looks with texture and pliable volume.

RRP £24.90 0800 328 6920 authenticbeautyconcept.com

Aveda’s Invati Advanced has been extended to include an Intensive Hair and Scalp Masque and an Exfoliating Shampoo Light, for healthier scalps and fuller, thickerlooking hair.

RRP SHAMPOO £26, MASQUE £34 0370 192 5650 aveda.co.uk

lorealpartnershop.com

Inspired by the iconic eye makeup look, ‘Smoky Hair’ is a new colour service from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris that showcases seamless blends and smudging of colour tones.

A brilliant New Year business boost!

IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 030 4034 lorealpartnershop.com 14

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Welcome five new colours to milk_shake’s Colour Whipped Cream line-up: Rose Brown, Light Pink, Light Blue, Light Grey and Intense Grey, brilliant for bespoke and instant hair pick-me-ups in the salon and at home.

Stuck for time? Offer a speedy salon service with the launch of a special series of Evolution of the Color³ FAST from ALFAPARF Milano, with a processing time of just 10 minutes. Mix together or with ALFAPARF Milano Pigments for endless colour combinations.

RRP £10.89 EACH 01392 365 177

IN-SALON SERVICE +353 4585 6490

www.red-hotproducts.com

alfaparfmilano.com CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 10:41

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Damage and hair breakage are major concerns for blonde clients, and there’s also a whole world of diverse needs.

That’s why the revamp of BLONDME from Schwarzkopf Professional is so prescient – its versatility means there is now a blonde for everyone, irrespective of skin tone, hair colour, age or gender. The big news is the integrated pH-balancing 3D bond technology, a three-step system that protects hair, as well as creating new bonds, while the refreshed care line means home maintenance is more effective than ever. Standouts include Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+, which gives you maximum lift with minimum breakage. And there are two Blonde Wonders – Restoring Balm seals split ends by up to 90 per cent, while Glaze Mist leaves hair up to 150 per cent shinier. Numbers we think your blondes will buy into…

LAUNCH OF THE MONTH

RRP HOMECARE FROM £17.50 0800 328 6920

... h c t a w o t O ne

OLEW

OLEW – WELSH FOR ‘oil’ – pays homage to founder Elinor Davies–Farnʼs Welsh roots. A brand laser-focused on those with curls, it was born out of frustration. Elinor was unable to find natural curly girl products that worked effectively and without chemicals. She was inspired by the book The $100 Startup

by Chris Guillebeau, setting up the brand with £100 from her kitchen, and it remains a passion project, with all products made in the UK and packed from Elinor’s home. It has won a fervent following already – described by some customers as ‘liquid gold’, the range has sold out six times so far. It’s a brand that’s perfect for right now – vegan and crueltyfree, it tripled its orders during the first lockdown as UK women embraced their natural hair, and as many continue to work from home and embrace a more relaxed approach to beauty, it’s bound to grow further.

Olew Original Hair Oil is the OG in the range, an all-natural nourishing and hydrating hair oil without any sulphates, parabens or silicones. It’s the ultimate hair multi-tasker – it saves money,

CREATIVE HEAD

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schwarzkopfpro.com

time, and space by working to treat dry, damaged hair, as well as delivering an effective scalp treatment and a brilliant curl refresher on the go. It aids growth, repairs heat damaged hair, smooths and adds brilliant shine.

Elsewhere in the line-up you’ll find a cleansing shampoo, clarifying conditioner and a naturally hydrating curl creme that helps restore curls back to their happy, original curl pattern, all while protecting hair against sun and atmospheric damage.

There’s also a five-step Olew Method to share with clients that consists of staying heatfree, moisturising, washing less, using the right products and having a little patience (something curly-haired customers will know plenty about). “I am on a mission to encourage other ladies to embrace and love their natural hair too and to always wear it with confidence,” says Elinor. Will your salon join her in her mission?

RRP FROM £12.95

ELINOR@OLEW.CO.UK olew.co.uk

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10/12/2020 10:41

WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME A HAIRDRESSER? I felt a passion for hairdressing from the moment I could do my own hair, it has always felt natural to me. I would style my own hair for school and everyone would know me as the girl with all the bows – my range of hair accessories was every schoolgirl’s dream!

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? I have many different career highlights so far, including working at the National Television Awards, on photoshoots and at events for brands such as Boots, along with travelling the world creating bridal looks for my clients, many of whom are now close friends. However, probably one of the most important highlights is having the power to make every one of my clients feel great.

JESS LANGRIDGE AGE: 24 SALON: NICKY CLARKE BIRMINGHAM

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I’d love to still be working as part of the wider Nicky Clarke team and seeing my work appear in campaigns and magazines. I’d also like to continue to travel the world, doing hair for weddings and elite events – creating unique hairstyles, experiencing different cultures and seeing exceptional venues.

Jess with Nicky Clarke

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? Creating looks for Fashion Weeks across the world, including Paris and Milan, but not just because I love the cities and cuisines! I love the simple yet high-end looks that the French and Italian catwalks have to offer, so it would be fantastic to be a part of a team creating them. I started in the industry at 16 and have worked my way up, and I push myself to work harder and keep on achieving. I’ve loved every step of my journey from sweeping to shooting – and am looking forward to seeing where the future takes me with the Nicky Clarke team.

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10/12/2020 13:59

#CHedit

Inside story HEADROMANCE HAVANT

In 2019 the Headromance salon was seven years old and in need of a revamp. Being a busy salon with 14 work stations open six days a week had understandably started to take its toll. “It was looking pretty tired and outdated,” admits founder Emily Warne. So began a major refurbishment to retain the salon’s cool vibe but add a more grown-up edge, ultimately sporting a much lighter, brighter look. “Having designed two salons previously, I had learnt what design aspects worked and what didn’t,” adds Emily. It’s now an industrial, urban oasis with fun touches sprinkled around, where raw elements clash and contrast alongside opulent accessories and stylish furniture. The idea of the design was to create a fluidity to the client journey; there’s a large copper reception and a bespoke colour bar takes pride of place – made to measure for Goldwell cans. There are beautiful bench seat Ayala basins, charming handmade barber stations with stunning Takara Belmont mustard chairs, and eight double-sided stations with mismatched opulent gold mirrors to add that final flourish.

HOT BUY

now open

YO, SHIKI

With an elegant, delicate frame and tactile textures, the Shiki styling chair from Takara Belmont’s Zen collection is quintessentially Japanese in style, with a low backrest for easy access to the client’s hair, black or champagne metalwork and hydraulic base options.

PRICE FROM £770 020 7515 0333

takarahairdressing.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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FIERCE WOMBOURNE

Tammy Mallet has moved her five-year-old Fierce salon to a larger site in the Staffordshire village as she expands the business.

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10/12/2020 10:31

THE BUSINESS EDIT

CHAIR RENTAL: ARE YOU COMPLIANT? THE DECISION was made while salons were busy dealing with the aftermath of the first lockdown, so it may have passed some salon owners by. A self-employed hairdresser in a Lancashire salon won the right to claim for notice, holiday and redundancy pay in an employment tribunal, a decision that will have lasting implications on future disputes.

Meghan Gorman successfully argued her contract as a self-employed hairdresser within a Terence Paul salon in Manchester featured restrictions that effectively made her a salon employee. She claimed hours were set by the salon, that it kept 67 per cent of her takings, that she had to seek permission for treatments she could offer clients and when she could take holiday.

The case remains a preliminary judgement and not yet a precedent in law.

However, Collette Osborne, founder of the Facebook group Salon Owners United and salon Hairven, has warned that if salons don’t get legally compliant on freelancer management now, it will come back to “bite them on the backside”. That’s why she’s delivered a workshop on the very subject to help ensure salon owners are treating freelancers in the correct way, with a good work plan that covers the essentials.

This question is one that Simon Harris, founder of mysalonmanager, poses to

his clients: self-employed or disguised employees? It’s understandable why so many salons and stylists opt for a selfemployed model: it means a salon owner can avoid National Insurance contributions and even use self-employed staff to reduce their own VAT liability, while freelance stylists can typically offset expenses to reduce their tax bill, and they get to keep more of their earnings if they are high performers.

HMRC has spent some time on a new set of rules – CEST (Check Employment Status for Tax) is a tool for checking the status of all self-employed working within one business.

And from April 2021, the responsibility is on the business owner to determine the status of the individual stylist.

There are three areas to nail down: contractors must have complete freedom – no start and finish times, no set prices, no work ‘overseen’ by a manager. They can send someone else to do their clients – if you aren’t prepared to accept that, then they’re not self-employed.

If you’re obliged to offer them work (i.e. clients), and they are obliged to take it, they are not self-employed. You also can’t expect exclusivity; they can work for other salons at the same time as yours. Simon suggests a fixed monthly chair rental plus a percentage service charge to cover product use.

LIFE LESSONS

DALE HOLLINSHEAD HAZEL & HAYDN

Focus on what you’re doing. I didn’t get on well at school so I didn’t try that hard. If you’re not enjoying something still try as hard as you can, you never know when you might need a skill.

Always treat people how you would like to be treated. Have a smile and always try and help wherever you can. Having this way of working and just being nice will help you along so much in life and your career.

Take time out for yourself. I get stuck into

CASEY COLEMAN CHAIR STUDIO

After what’s been a pretty tough year, I’ve decided to close the doors for good at Chair Salons. While this is heartbreaking, going freelance will allow me to continue with my TV work as well as other aspects of our industry without guilt. Luckily, I seem to have landed on my feet.

My original agreement to rent a chair at a local salon has now progressed into having my own branded space there – Chair Studio. This will be at the back of the salon, 100 per cent private, have its own entrance, its own storage and CCTV. I will pay 50 per cent of everything I earn, which will cover products, assistance and any other overheads. In this space I will have two stations, my own basin area and will have my own booking system. We haven’t quite reached an agreement on product sales, but I’m not overly concerned about financial gain from retail. I will be able to trade any time during the salon’s opening hours, but will also be using the space for online tutorials and Zoom classes.

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work mode sometimes.

Having time off can make you and your business grow more than it would if you just work, work, work.

Some of my best ideas have come from being relaxed – lockdown was a perfect chance to do this!

Don’t be shy, or afraid!

What’s the worst that can happen? There have been far too many times when I didn’t speak up, even though I had a question to ask.

Speak up and speak loud; you will learn much more.

CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 10:27

#BusinessEdit

PROMOTE GOOD MENTAL HEALTH ON BLUE MONDAY

ARE YOU READY for Blue Monday?

Traditionally seen as the most depressing day of the year, it’s on 18 January and is a timely reminder of the importance of looking after the mental health of your team and yourself, says NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard.

“It can be difficult to spot when someone is becoming stressed or depressed,” says Tina. “Signs to look for include performing less well at work, taking more sick leave, becoming quiet or irritable, being selfcritical and physical symptoms such as headaches, nausea or weight loss or gain.”

If you notice any signs of stress, arrange a confidential meeting with your team member to discuss any worries or concerns that they have. You can then develop an action plan to address the issues. Find more detailed information about dealing with stress in the workplace: nhbf.co.uk/ stressed-employee. Tina adds: “Don’t forget the law says you have a legal duty to protect employees from stress at work.”

NHBF members have access to a 24/7 legal helpline: nhbf.co.uk/legal-advice

Plastic-stem cotton buds banned in England

SINGLE-USE PLASTIC STRAWS, cotton buds and stirrers are now banned from sale and distribution in England.

NHBF director of quality & standards Caroline Larissey said: “The problems of ecological pollution are now much better understood so we expect environmentally aware salons and barber shops will already prefer to use cotton buds with paper stems and plastic-free adhesive.”

Find out more about running a sustainable business: nhbf.co.uk/sustainable

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NHBF SURVEY: BUSINESSES ‘NOT SURE THEY WILL SURVIVE’ AN NHBF ‘state of the industry’ survey has found that 62 per cent of hair and beauty businesses who took part could not be sure they will survive beyond the end of the financial year in 2021. This compares to a previous NHBF survey, which found that 41 per cent said they thought they might not survive until Christmas. The NHBF state of the industry survey also found that: • Approximately one in eight employers have made redundancies.

• More than half have cut staff hours.

• 56 per cent could not rule out further redundancies after furlough.

• One in five businesses are not earning enough to cover outgoings.

• Only 4 per cent are likely to/ definitely intend to take on new staff in the next three months.

• Only 4 per cent are likely to/ definitely intend to take on new apprentices in the next three months.

NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert, said: “Without targeted help from the government we could be facing boarded-up shop fronts, significant job losses and a major mental health and wellbeing crisis. The government can help by extending hardship grants, introducing a high street voucher scheme, reducing VAT to 5 per cent, extending business rates relief, and providing grants for those not eligible for other support.”

Gov’t financial support – what you need to know THE RANGE OF government financial support available to hair and beauty businesses and the self-employed is frequently updated as the pandemic continues, so it pays to understand what you may be entitled to, says NHBF finance director Kishon Mather.

“The furlough scheme has been extended and will now run until 31 March 2021.

This means that the Job Support Scheme, which was scheduled to start on Sunday, 1 November 2020, has now been postponed until furlough ends. In addition, the previously announced Job Retention Bonus will no longer be paid in February 2021.

We understand a new Job Retention Bonus scheme will be announced later on.”

The government has increased the grant available to the self-employed for November to January; Covid-19 loan schemes have also been extended; and various grants are being distributed by local authorities. Stay up-to-date at: nhbf.co.uk/financial-support

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10/12/2020 10:24

#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel

HOW DO YOU WHAT 2020 HAS TAUGHT COMPARE? THE SALON INDUSTRY

PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES:

9%

How was business in October 2020 compared with September 2020?

DOWN 40%

UP 60%

1. YOU CAN GET ONLINE, FAST How was business in October 2020 compared with October 2019?

SAME 13.5%

UP 13.5%

£61.54

DOWN 73%

of respondents plan to move more business online this year

more online bookings in 2020 than previous years

One in four salons

in the UK sold

online gift vouchers for the first time in 2020

“We already used a lot of social media marketing and, because we are rural, we already shipped out retail to our clients. We have always offered online consultations but have found these have become much more popular” EMMA AND CHRIS SIMMONS, SALON 54

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The #ShopLocal movement saw a whopping 75 per cent of UK consumers opt to support local businesses versus retail giants for Christmas 2020. And the overwhelming support for salon businesses was clear.

3. COMMUNICATION IS VITAL

THE MISSION: MOVING MORE BUSINESS ONLINE

79% of salons had

From March to December, Phorest launched revenue-generating online tools that meant owners could keep their businesses. You can now book appointments, buy gift vouchers, purchase retail through a simplified Online Store and host seamless video consultations if you’re a Phorest salon. Which means you can make money, even if you’re closed.

2. YOU ARE A COMMUNITY LINCHPIN

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN OCTOBER 2020 (EXC. VAT):

67%

2020 HAS BEEN a landmark year for many reasons. Many tough, some progressive, but all completely unprecedented. Here at Phorest, we have seen invention, creativity, solidarity and support carry our salon owners through the year, all kept together with an unbelievable amount of tenacity and strength of spirit. It’s an industry that makes us proud to be a part of and one that realises good opportunities when it sees them. That’s why these are our top five lessons from 2020:

Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

ONCE EACH ISSUE of Creative HEAD lands with our audience, we speak to our Reader Panel to ask them how their business is going, in partnership with Phorest Salon Software. We combine the results from our Reader Panel with research compiled by Phorest, using its client base of salons from across the UK, to gauge what’s going on in the industry and discuss how to solve common problems and challenges. This month, we’re talking about what the lockdowns and their challenges have taught us.

Phorest salons sent a record number of emails and SMS to their clients throughout closures, reopenings and to market services and offers that helped them recoup their losses.

4. RETAIL SALES MATTER

What was previously an add-on to revenue became massively important to salons, especially as they strove to meet the demands of point 1 and 2 above.

5. HAIR SERVICES ARE ESSENTIAL!

We always had a hunch, but now we know it for sure – hair salons deserve a spot in the essential services list!

Abigail Walsh is the regional marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software UK & Ireland.

Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 10:23

KEEP TEAM & CLIENTS SAFE INSTANT HAND SANITISER

£2.50

PER 500ML BOTTLE (EXC. VAT)

HOSPITAL GRADE – KILLS 99.9% OF ALL GERMS, INCLUDING CORONAVIRUS NON-STICKY – 75% ALCOHOL FORMULATION HYGIENIC 500ML PUMP DISPENSER BOTTLES – IDEAL FOR SALONS

BUY NOW AND GET FREE UK DELIVERY seavenus.co.uk/salons 019_SEAVENUS.indd 1

07/12/2020 14:44

COLOUR VISION

IT’S A NEW DAWN, IT’S A NEW DAY, AND A NEW LIFE FOR CLIENTS’ HAIR COLOUR. WELLA PROFESSIONALS ARE HERE TO START YOUR YEAR OFF RIGHT WITH NUMEROUS SOLUTIONS FOR CLIENTS IN ASSOCIATION WITH

ON COURSE FOR CHANGE

Take advantage of Wella’s January Sale with 20 per cent off all Wella Professional courses booked and completed by the end of January 2021.* Brush up on your colouring skills or fine-tune your cutting skills. For the complete lowdown, the new Wella Education Book 2021 is available to download now at wella.com/educationbook, or contact your nearest Wella Studio to request a printed copy.

COLOUR CRAFT ESSENTIAL WAS £220, NOW £176 LONDON or MANCHESTER

Monday 11 and Tuesday 12 January 2021

COLOUR CRAFT CORRECTION WAS £240, NOW £192 LONDON or MANCHESTER

Monday 25 and Tuesday 26 January 2021

COLOUR CRAFT BALAYAGE WAS £174, NOW £139.20 LONDON or MANCHESTER

Monday 18 January 2021

ULTIMATE BALAYAGE WAS £174, NOW £139.20 LONDON or MANCHESTER

Tuesday 19 January 2021

BLONDE TOOLBOX WAS £174, NOW £139.20 LONDON

Monday 25 January 2021

INSTA READY COLOUR WAS £174, NOW £139.20 LONDON

Monday 18 January 2021

WELLA CLINIC WAS £50, NOW £40 LONDON or MANCHESTER

Wednesday 27 January 2021

COLOUR GENIUS WAS £240, NOW £192 LONDON

Tuesday 26 and Wednesday 27 January 2021

CLASSIC CUTTING WAS £350, NOW £280 LONDON

Monday 25 and Tuesday 26 January 2021

*This offer excludes specialist programmes. Prices exclude VAT

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

THE WIDER INDUSTRY. EVERY MONTH A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT EXAMINES AN ISSUE WHICH AFFECTSEXACTLY HOW CRUCIAL GUSTAV FOUCHE (@GUSTAV_FOUCHE), OWNER OF HIS EPONYMOUS SALON IN LONDON, KNOWS IT IS TO WIN CLIENTS’ TRUST WHEN IT COMES TO PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS “We offer a bespoke service to every one of our clients. We believe that each client deserves to feel like a goddess with their own unique style and colour. I draw on my 17 years’ experience and from research of the advancements being made by product brands, to discuss with clients openly and honestly which products will be best for them.

“When your client feels truly understood during their consultation and trusts in your ability to recommend the perfect products for them, they recognise the value in taking up those recommendations as being the best way to keep their hair healthy and looking fabulous.

I find that the best advertisement for a salon is the hair on our clients’ heads, and with the Wella Professionals Color Fresh retail range, that advert can now keep on looking amazing through to their next visit. It can be a daunting decision to change hair colour as it has such a big impact on appearance, so I really love how Color Fresh helps to make trying a new tone seem less scary to the colour-shy. As a true semi-permanent treatment it will fade after a few washes and will wash out completely, giving peace of mind to the client that they are able to go back to their old colour if they want to.

“The new Color Fresh Masks are also perfect for giving a dose of deep hydration and topping up either natural, pastel or vivid tones between visits. Combining Color Fresh in-salon treatments with at-home refreshes is an ideal platform to providing the incremental colour changes that keep our clients looking at their best.”

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CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 10:17

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

SHELFIE TIME Color Fresh Masks are what hairstylists and our clients have been waiting for. Our clients can take these fantastic professional colour-enhancing products home to keep their salon colour looking fresh, and even experiment with something fresh and fun. It’s so easy to use, and the tone and shine is unbelievable” MARCO DIAS, OWNER, THE STUDIO, DUBLIN @THESTUDIOIE

WHY I’M WELLA

JACKIE LANG, CHIEF EXECUTIVE OF UK HAIRDRESSERS @REGISUK

CREATIVE HEAD

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@regisuk

Wella has been partnering with Regis and Supercuts since 2002 and it’s a partnership I am particularly proud of. Throughout our time working together we have felt fully supported and truly part of the Wella family, through the challenging times as well as the good which is the sign of a true alliance. We know our stylists love the products and the results in salon speak for themselves!

The education provided is unsurpassed and Wella works with us to adapt to our specific needs. We have grown together as businesses and we learn from each other all the time – whether it be in the digital world, sharing guest insights or the latest in product innovation. I have 100 per cent confidence when it comes to partnering with Wella, and long may the relationship continue.”

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10/12/2020 10:17

Robert Eaton

SILVER SIREN CALL

WORK WITH GREYS NOT AGAINST THEM, WITH THE NEW GREY BLENDING TECHNIQUES FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS AND ROBERT EATON LET’S FACE IT – fighting the advancement of grey hair sometimes feels like trying to hold back the tide. Work smarter rather than harder and show your clients that there can be another way with these new Grey Blending techniques from Wella Professionals and Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals ambassador colour. Clients have differing colour needs that evolve throughout their lives, and Wella’s thorough, six-step consultation process has been designed to ensure clients feel included and heard. It’s never just a case of telling a client what you think they want to hear, and this collaborative approach allows for client loyalty, frequency and creativity.

Whether they’re alarmed by the emergence of their first

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020-023_Colour Vision.indd 3

grey hair, thinking of growing out previous colour, or looking to embrace and personalise their grey look, Wella Professionals has created four distinct colour client profiles for you to use as a base guide for any client you might have. Wella Professionals has also broken down everything you might need, from hero products for different clients to how to charge for the services, and the ideal follow-up products to protect your work.

The right placements and undertones are hugely important in cultivating a new blended grey style for your client. Wella Professionals has laid the groundwork for you to feel confident in guiding your clients through any colour decisions, wherever your client is on their hair journey.

CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 10:17

CLIENT PROFILE: Currently has demi-permanent colour service that leaves the hair looking warm and does not complement her complexion. Is seeking a service that can eliminate the warmth while maintaining hair condition.

CLIENT PROFILE: Suffers from a lot of warmth from demipermanent colour applications. This client wants to make sure that she can have a fun grey image that mirrors her outgoing personality.

HERO PRODUCT: Koleston Perfect.

PERFECT SERVICE: Glossing – introduce your clients to a Wella Professionals Glossing service with a twist.

HERO PRODUCT: ILLUMINA COLOR. PERFECT SERVICE: Keep grey blending cool with this simple colour update using single foils or a half-head of foils.

CLIENT PROFILE: Has just started to discover the first signs of grey hair. Not sure what colour application is needed but is very concerned about damage. Her hair means everything to her, so trust in a colourist is paramount. A thorough consultation is key to the success of the colour application.

CLIENT PROFILE: Decided to start growing her colour out, but is unsure what the next steps should be. Every time she went to other salons, colourists would want to cover the grey hair, which is not what she wanted. She is looking for a playful colour that complements her haircut.

HERO PRODUCTS: Color Touch and Blondorplex.

PERFECT SERVICE: Disguising first signs of greys with babylights and toning, or a partial head of foils.

HERO PRODUCT: ILLUMINA COLOR. PERFECT SERVICE: Keep blending cool with a simple colour update using half-head of foils and a toning service.

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

#ColourVision

DISCOVER HOW TO OPEN YOUR CLIENTS’ EYES TO THE POSSIBILITIES OF GREY BLENDING OPPORTUNITIES AND COLOUR CONFIDENTLY WITH THE HELP OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS. FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WELLA.CO.UK, OR CHECK EDUCATION.WELLA.COM FOR EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES @WellaHairUKI #WellaColour #MakeChange CREATIVE HEAD

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WellaUKI 25

10/12/2020 10:17

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01/12/2020 14:21

COLOR mask FRESH REVIVE, REFRESH AND HAVE

fu n

Zero damage colour depositing masks to maintain or transform your colour BOTH IN SALON AND AT HOME. education.wella.com uk.wellastore.com @wellahairuki #WellaColour

2020-01029 CFM Cover_CH.indd 2

01/12/2020 14:22

OF

LOCKDOWN

FOLLOWING NOT ONE BUT TWO CRIPPLING LOCKDOWNS, CREATIVE HEAD WANTED TO SALUTE THOSE WHO WENT THE EXTRA MILE TO HELP OTHERS DURING SUCH TESTING TIMES. CAPTURED ON THEIR PHONES DURING RESTRICTIONS, PLEASE MEET THE STARS OF THE SHUTDOWNS…

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CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 10:12

TOM CHAPMAN

FOUNDER, THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE THIS 2019 MOST WANTED Award for Innovation winner was a hero before the lockdown with his mental health initiative.

But with the ongoing pandemic, mental health issues have sky-rocketed as people worry about their physical health, their family, their livelihoods… with no end in sight. Tom’s BarberTalk programme, which helps barbers and hairdressers recognise the signs of mental health issues in clients and gives them the tools to talk and help, is providing real benefit. And he has won £30,000 of funding from the National Lottery Community Fund to continue doing just that. The mission is to create non-clinical, non-judgmental, safe spaces where people feel comfortable to open up and talk about mental health, being able with stylists to signpost them to support and information. This is achieved through pop-up shops in public spaces, events and BarberTalk training, which went online in lockdown. The group will be able to collate data around the effectiveness of training to both the hair professionals and the clients in the chair, which will be invaluable to help improve the already lifesaving BarberTalk.

“I want to get this training into the hair curriculum,” he explains, adding that he is also discussing pilot schemes with the NHS. “We’re not trying to make anyone a psychotherapist. We want to ensure everyone is prepared, and can WANT TO find out more about help clients who need it find the right help.”

BarberTalk education? Visit thelionsbarbercollective.com

SONIA HARIA

BEAUTY DIRECTOR, TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP A proactive beauty director on one of the country’s most respected broadsheets, Sonia worked with L’Oréal Professional Products Division to publish a major photographic story during the depths of the first lockdown to illustrate how a Covid-safe salon could look (using Gatsby & Miller in Amersham as its example). She has also campaigned tirelessly for the beauty sector with The Telegraph initiative, ‘Why Can’t I Work’, which helped 220,000 people get back to business after repeated calls for government intervention were ignored. To help the industry back to its feet she is now pushing the ‘Chop The VAT’ movement, led by the hairdressing sub-committee of the British Beauty Council, which includes George Northwood, Josh Wood, Luke Hersheson and Nicola Clarke. The goal? To persuade the government to cut VAT from 20 per cent to 5 per cent for salons – the same drop applied to hospitality. “Speaking to hairdressers, it was about asking what other kind of tenable things can be done because some of these businesses are down 80 per cent. They’re so intrinsically tied to the hospitality industry, but yet they haven’t benefited from any of the financial support,” she says. “It was almost a duty to help as much as we could, to provide a platform for the industry, which has been treated quite badly in 2020.” Keep fighting, Sonia.

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29

10/12/2020 10:13

OF

ADEE PHELAN

LOCKDOWN

Industry icon Adee Phelan has made no bones about his struggles with depression. When Covid-19 hit, he was determined not to let it knock him down. You may have seen him getting sweary with his mate Piers Morgan on Good Morning Britain, furious with Prime Minister Boris Johnson’s response to the pandemic. He turned that rage into action.

His first initiative was to ship ‘thank you’ product parcels direct to frontline NHS workers, which resulted in 17,926 parcels made of £1.36m-worth of retail donated from a variety sources including industry suppliers (Hair Tools alone gave £89,000 of stock) and salon owners forced to close looking to help by giving up the last of their retail. This was all packed by Adee’s fair hand in his London home, and reached nurses and doctors in 47 different hospitals. And thanks to £46,500 in cash donations, he was also able to offer 1,300 free haircuts via five pop-up spaces. He then started a second phase to pull in an extra 1,200 gift set boxes for Christmas ‘thank you’ parcels to NHS workers and invited anyone struggling with their mental health to join him on a socially distanced park walk. As we went to press, he had walked and talked with nearly 300 people, with 1,100 more waiting to join him. He says: “It’s mostly barbers and hairdressers, going through so much crap. You can see the dark clouds, the lack of sleep, that they are suffering. We walk around and, at the end of it, you see smiles.” TV work, a memoir and more are in the pipeline; there’s no stopping Adee.

TORI PRIESTLEY

MARKETING DIRECTOR, NHBF Whatever your politics, we can all agree the communication around Covid-19 restrictions have been muddled, causing business owners to despair. And while hair salons have been particularly hard hit by the pandemic, passionately fighting their corner has been the NHBF. While major props go to former chief executive Hilary Hall and her replacement, Richard Lambert, a spotlight should be shone on the woman at the coal face, answering the deluge of individual worries on Instagram and sharing clear updates speedily whenever new restrictions or announcements are revealed – Tori Priestley.

Inundated with questions from anxious hairdressers and barbers (and beauty workers), Tori has made it her mission to ensure everyone has the clarity they need, seeing membership increase by 1,400 and the NHBF Instagram following rocket by more than 70,000. “This whole process has shown what we can do, how we can help businesses and our members,” she says. “It clarified how much we can cut through the nonsense and make clear, concise statements. We’ve never wanted to get into the speculation. Tensions are high; these are people’s livelihoods. Some members would have had to spend thousands of pounds on legal advice otherwise. There’s definitely satisfaction that has come from knowing we’ve been able to help.” TO FIND OUT about

membership, visit nhbf.co.uk

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10/12/2020 14:33

COLLETTE OSBORNE

OWNER OF HAIRVEN AND FOUNDER OF SALON OWNERS UNITED When salons were forced to close in late March, the sense of panic was palpable from business owners. How would they pay their staff, keep their businesses afloat? This Nottinghamshire salon owner decided to get proactive, creating the Facebook group Salon Owners United to make, in the words of one member, “a safe space for us to ask questions/vent/freak out”. Members can access practical business and financial advice, all offered for free. Partnerships with HR consultants, commercial lawyers, tax specialists and finance brokers have followed, all offering invaluable guidance either free or at a greatly reduced cost, with sister group Salon Freelancers United geared towards independents.

“We’re facing the impact of being shut down and Covid-19, fighting government in all corners because we’re excluded from grants and VAT cuts. We’re also fighting business interruption insurance on all levels and trying to make sure that people are legally compliant,” explains Collette, mid-seminar prep as we spoke. With a background in crisis management fused with her 10 years in the hair industry, Collette has a unique toolbox to access. “I thought ‘I can’t just sit and watch people’s businesses fail; I know what the obstacles are’. This is about our industry coming together. I’m just WANT TO JOIN? Search on trying to give them the tools they need.”

Facebook SalonOwnersUnited or SalonFreelancersUnited

NATALIE BOOKER

BENEFICIARIES, THE HAIR AND BEAUTY CHARITY The industry charity, formerly known as HABB, has been the place to turn for those left unable to continue working through accident, illness and extreme circumstances. The pandemic and salon closures meant that the charity was dealing with a 150 per cent increase in requests for help, and Natalie is at the frontline liaising with each and every beneficiary, who are often in desperate need. One colleague says of her: “She works so hard, especially during lockdowns, to make the charity go round and change people’s lives every day.” And that’s exactly why she’s being recognised here: the impact of her actions means lives are genuinely being made better during the worst times. “I’m grateful to have a job, and more than happy to help or talk to anybody about what they’re going through, because I think our industry’s been hit the absolute worst,” she sighs. “To be able to offer help and to tell someone that the committee’s pledged money, makes it all worthwhile.” We also want to shout out beauty influencer Caroline Hirons, whose #BeautyBacked campaign has singlehandedly raised more than £400,000 for The Hair and Beauty Charity, meaning Natalie has more in the coffers to help hairdressers in need.

WANT TO donate to The

Hair & Beauty Charity? Visit hairandbeautycharity.org

CREATIVE HEAD

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10/12/2020 10:13

VE RT OR IAL CR EATIV E HE AD AD

ART OF PERFECTION YEARS HAVE BEEN SPENT BY GHD TO CREATE THE ULTIMATE BLOW-DRY TOOL. BRING LIGHT TO YOUR CLIENTS’ LIVES WITH THE HELP OF THE GHD HELIOS PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRYER When is a hairdryer not a hairdryer? When it is a helios. The ghd helios is ghd’s lightest and fastest professional hairdryer yet, giving you ultimate styling control in the palm of your hand.

The ghd helios has been developed by top scientists, engineers and styling professionals to provide you with the ultimate tool for drying and styling. Available in four colours, it features an incredibly lightweight, brushless motor to create a powerful, concentrated airflow that allows you to speed through the blow-dry without compromising on a sleek, smooth finish. This also means that its ergonomic design has brilliant balance in the hand, allowing for seamless and effortless styling throughout the day.

The secret is the unique Aeroprecis technology. It delivers an intense, concentrated airflow for more precise control as you work.

Whether you’re going for a smooth and sleek finish or showstopping volume, the ghd helios can take you there.

Advanced ionic technology works to reduce frizz and flyaways as you style, for an impeccably smooth and shiny finish to hair. Finish your work off with a quick blast of the cool shot to set the style and leave your clients blown away by the radiant results.

Top Tip

“The ghd helios hairdryer gives you the perfect air flow to create a natural fullness, stunning shine and smoothness like no other. Hold hair away from the hairline when blow-drying and blow-dry upwards. This keeps the hair away from the cheekbones and has this incredible lifting effect to the face – my clients adore it” Zoë Irwin, ghd UK ambassador

IT’S OKAY TO GET ATTACHED

With three professional attachments, the ghd helios is primed to help you style each and every person who sits in your chair.

The diffuser, comb nozzle and wide styling nozzle have all been engineered to deliver exceptional results, so you can focus on your creativity and the personalisation of every blow-dry.

“The ghd professional comb nozzle is a game-changer.

It provides tension suitable for different densities of afro hair textures, as well as rounded ends that are brilliant for scalp comfort” Charlotte Mensah, ghd global ambassador

TO DISCOVER HOW GHD HELIOS CAN BRING LIGHT TO YOUR STYLING LIFE, CONTACT YOUR GHD ACCOUNT MANAGER OR CALL 01924 423400 32

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CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 10:03

GHD HELIOS

ghd’s lightest, fastest, professional hairdryer for ultimate styling control - with Aeroprecis™ technology to drastically cut blow-dry time* and achieve smoother results with 30% more shine.** #ghdhelios #queenoftheblowdry Speak to your ghd account manager to find out more, or call 01924 423400.

*consumer testing vs. regular hairdryer. **vs. naturally dried hair.

QUEEN OF THE BLOW-DRY

SELF/STYLED SUNDAYS

OUR NEXT EVENT: SUNDAY 24 JANUARY 2021

BOOK now at creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled-sundays FREE SESSION

PANEL TALK: THE WALL We’ve all come up against those hurdles which seem insurmountable, often without the support offered by being a part of a wider salon team.

We speak to Carolyn Newman, Casey Coleman and Ashleigh Hodges about their own experiences and how they conquered The Wall on their own journeys.

ALL THINGS MANIC PANIC Hosted by Manic Panic educator and ambassador Vicki Hoskin, with expert insight on Manic Panic’s rainbow of formulas and how to create seamless blends with creative colour.

Cost: £20, including a code for 10% off all Manic Panic products in the Aston & Fincher online store.

MORE SESSIONS TO BE ANNOUNCED! BOOK YOUR TICKETS AT creativeheadmag.com/store SSSundaysJan_EVA.indd 1

10/12/2020 14:32

ATTENTION ALL SELF-EMPLOYED HAIRDRESSERS! Learn new skills, discover fresh opportunities and MAKE MORE MONEY with Creative HEAD’s Self/Styled Sundays Each event delivers a unique agenda packed with advice and information especially for you, including Masterclasses with leading names and brands, plus panel discussions where fellow freelancers discuss current industry issues and candidly share their stories

GET ALL THE LATEST NEWS AT

creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled-sundays

For every £20 Masterclass booked, enjoy 10% off the host brand’s products in the Aston & Fincher online store – that’s incredible value!

SELF/STYLED Sundays – brought to you by Self/Styled from Creative HEAD and Aston & Fincher

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09/12/2020 12:31

CREATIVE HEAD PRESENTS

THE ROOT OF IT

A COLLECTION OF PODCASTS IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TREATWELL

ALL EPISODES AVAILABLE NOW

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SERIES ONE: LISTEN TO WHAT THE MAN SAID Opinion-driven exchanges about the modern male client and what makes him tick

SERIES TWO: THEN AND NOW Visionary salon owners on being the boss and the changes they’ve seen across the years

SERIES THREE: THE EDITOR ASKS Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage probes creative and business experts on exactly what they do and the industries in which they do it

Listen at creativeheadmag.com/podcasts or search ‘The Root of It’ on all major podcast platforms

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CREATIVE HEAD

07/12/2020 15:19

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

A BLONDE FOR

EVERYONE! IT’S ALL ABOUT THE BLONDE IN 2021, AND WITH ITS COMPREHENSIVE LINE-UP, REVAMPED HOMECARE AND ADVANCED BONDING TECHNOLOGY IN EVERY PRODUCT, BLONDME FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL MEANS YOU’VE GOT A BRILLIANT BLONDE TO OFFER EVERY ONE OF YOUR CLIENTS

It’s the most sought-after colour in salons – more than 60 per cent of services revolve around blondes.

But it’s also a shade with its own unique issues: uneven bases, poor hair quality and yellow tones, to name but a few, while damage and breakage remain major concerns for clients. What you need is a portfolio of products you can rely on to create the perfect blonde every time, causing minimal breakage and instead delivering maximum strength and shine.

So, put your hands together for BLONDME from Schwarzkopf Professional – the first premium colour and care system with integrated bonding technology, ensuring iconic blonde results without compromise.

There’s no doubt that blondes require special care.

BLONDME is powered by ground-breaking new pH-balancing 3D Bond Technology, which connects the hair’s inner bonds by creating a dense threedimensional network inside the hair fibre.

This advanced new bonding system is now fully integrated within BLONDME at all three stages of the blonding process: during the colour service; after the blonde service; and in an exciting portfolio of homecare products.

The only brand truly dedicated to the diverse needs of blondes, BLONDME opens up a world of endless service opportunities, enabling you to create a tailormade service for every blonde client, irrespective of skin tone, hair colour, age or gender.

#BLONDESOFTHEWORLD CREATIVE HEAD

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07/12/2020 15:19

STEP 1: COLOUR BOND PROTECTION DURING THE COLOUR SERVICE

BLONDME’S ADVANCED BONDING TECHNOLOGY WORKS DURING THE COLOUR SERVICE BY INTERLINKING THE HAIR FIBRES TO CREATE STRONG STRUCTURAL BONDS AND MINIMISE THE AMOUNT OF HAIR BREAKAGE

MAXIMUM LIFT WITH MINIMUM HAIR BREAKAGE

EASY AND POWERFUL FREEHAND TECHNIQUES

Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ is a high-performance powder lightener that delivers an unbeatable 9 levels of lift without breakage.

With its soft-to-solid formula, Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener is perfect for free-hand techniques, delivering up to 7 levels of lift.

A TONAL ADDITIVE FOR COMBINED LIGHTENING AND TONING

TONED RESULT WITHOUT COMPROMISE

Neutralise warmth and create intense or soft tonal effects with Bleach & Tone – a tonal additive for combined lightening and toning.

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The integrated Bond-Enforcing Hydrolock Technology in Bond Enforcing Blonde Toning helps minimise damage, improve moisture levels and delivers optimal colour longevity.

CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 11:12

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

UPGRADE NATURAL BLONDES

The high-performing Bond Enforcing Blonde Lifting shades are perfect for natural base 6 and lighter, with less than 30 per cent white hair.

AGE-DEFYING BLONDES

For mature clients, Bond Enforcing White Blending delivers a unique combination of lifting and colouring. Use on natural base 6 and lighter, with 30 per cent white hair or more.

LIFT AND TONE IN ONE STEP

Use Bond Enforcing Blonde Hi-Lighting to add tone direction or neutralise unwanted warmth in a single step. For natural base 4 and lighter, or colour-treated base 6 or lighter.

#BLONDESOFTHEWORLD CREATIVE HEAD

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07/12/2020 15:20

STEP 2: AFTER COLOUR BOND CREATION

RECOMMEND THESE UNIQUE BLONDME IN-SALON BOND CREATION SERVICES AFTER COLOURING TO SEAL THE CUTICLES AND STABILISE THE HAIR STRUCTURE. WITH ALL PRODUCTS NOW FEATURING NEW 3D BOND CREATION TECHNOLOGY, NOT ONLY WILL THEY GUARANTEE SUPERIOR BLONDE HAIR QUALITY, THEY’LL BOOST THE BLONDE REVENUE ON YOUR BOTTOM LINE!

BOND CREATION INTENSE NOURISHING

Stabilise the hair structure of highly compromised hair with Rich Shampoo and Mask.

BOND CREATION LIGHTWEIGHT NOURISHING

Stabilise the hair structure of low- to medium-compromised hair with Rich or Light Shampoo and Rich Conditioner.

DETOXIFYING

Use the Detox Mask to purify scalp and hair, unclog the pores and remove impurities.

INTENSE REFRESH

Brighten blonde hair with the intensively refreshing Detox Mask and Vitamin C shot.

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COOL TONING

Neutralise yellow and orange undertones and refresh or enrich cool tones with Cool Blondes Shampoo.

CREATIVE HEAD

07/12/2020 15:21

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

STEP 3: HOMECARE BOND MAINTENANCE

NEW 3D BOND CREATION TECHNOLOGY IS NOW INTEGRATED WITHIN ALL BLONDME HOMECARE PRODUCTS, ALLOWING CLIENTS TO MAINTAIN BONDS AT HOME FOR IMPROVED SHINE, STRENGTH AND LONG-LASTING COLOUR

ALL BLONDES RICH

ALL BLONDES LIGHT

An intense nourishing regime for normal to coarse blondes, featuring the highly moisturising Cashmere Protein Complex, which improves the condition of the hair fibres.

A lightweight yet nourishing regime for fine to normal blondes formulated with Mulberry Silk Protein Complex to rebuild and restore hair’s inner structure. Hair feels moisturised and up to 85 per cent stronger.

RESTORING BALM Seals split ends by up to 90 per cent.

Up to 24 hours anti-frizz effect.

Up to 210˚C heat protection with UV filter.

ALL BLONDES DETOX

COOL BLONDES NEUTRALISING

Revives dull and brassy blondes caused by pollution or hard water minerals and other residues. Nordic Cotton Protein Complex purifies, conditions and regenerates.

This purple toning regime helps to maintain cool tones on all hair types, removing brassiness and neutralising unwanted yellow undertones. Velvet Flower Protein Complex contains moisture balancing properties to condition and soften the hair.

GLAZE MIST Helps protect against environmental aggressors.* Leaves hair up to 150 per cent shinier.**

*When used in combination with the ALL BLONDES Detox Shampoo. **Versus sebum-treated hair

THESE HAIR PERFECTORS ENRICH AND PROTECT BLONDES AND WORK ON ALL HAIR TYPES

#BLONDESOFTHEWORLD CREATIVE HEAD

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10/12/2020 16:08

WORK THAT

BLONDE! EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO UPSKILL YOUR TEAM, MAX OUT YOUR RETAIL BUSINESS – AND WIN BIG WITH #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD

BLONDE EDUCATION TO PUT YOU AHEAD OF THE COMPETITION LEARN EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE COMPLETE BLONDME PORTFOLIO, INCLUDING DISCOVERING THE BEST TECHNIQUES FOR CHOOSING AND APPLYING THE PREMIUM BLONDE SERVICE THAT YOUR CLIENT WANTS

BLONDE AMBITION

Begin your blonde journey with the fundamentals of lifting hair, using BLONDME Lightener and Blonding products.

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BLONDME AMBASSADOR AND AWARD-WINNING COLOURIST, JACK HOWARD

JUST BLEACH IT

Become an expert in lifting and toning as you learn to apply the right lightener or toner, at the right time.

FOILS & FREEHAND

Gain confidence and learn techniques you need for freehand work, toning and partial lightening.

CREATIVE HEAD

07/12/2020 15:21

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

MAXIMISE YOUR SALON’S BLONDE BUSINESS

BLONDE EXPERT SALON

MAIN TAIN YOU R PERF ECT BLO NDE DISCOVER YOUR PERFECT BLONDE

ITH RE SYSTEM W COLOUR & CA CHNOLOGY BONDING TE I NTEG R ATE D

P O W E R E D

B Y

Ask your hairstylist for a tailored consultatio n P O W E R E D

B Y

EXCLUSIVE PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS FOR YOUR SALON

Poster sets, door stickers, lookbooks and more… There’s everything you need to entice new clients into your salon and inspire them.

SAMPLING IS KEY

These new BLONDME minis allow clients to trial all three core ranges.

SCAN ME!

LEVERAGE THE DIGITAL BUZZ OF THE NEW #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD CAMPAIGN WITH REFINERY29

Attract new clients and inspire existing ones with this exciting, engaging campaign co-created with global media and entertainment brand Refinery29 (@Refinery29). It showcases nine personal stories of blondes from around the world, plus stunning imagery highlighting the diversity of the BLONDME blonde. Show your interpretations of #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD and you’ll even have the chance to be featured on a global social wall and win an exciting prize!

NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO STOCK THE ENTIRE BLONDME RANGE IN YOUR SALON. FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT SCHWARZKOPF�PROFESSIONAL.CO.UK

#BLONDESOFTHEWORLD CREATIVE HEAD

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08/12/2020 12:34

2020

DON’T STOP

BELIEVING!

GOODBYE 2020 – WHAT A YEAR THAT WAS. AMONG THE MANY NIGHTS OUT WE SHOULD HAVE BEEN ENJOYING WAS A LEGENDARY GATHERING TO CELEBRATE THE 20TH BIRTHDAY OF A LEGENDARY EVENT – THE MOST WANTED AWARDS! Alas, it was not meant to be… not in 2020, anyway – but we’re still celebrating!

We’ve come a long way since that first Grand Final, held at lunchtime in London restaurant Sugar Reef, with just 75 guests and Radio 1 DJ Nemone hosting.

That’s because, like our finalists over the years, we had buckets of ambition – to shine a spotlight on the greatest talents operating in British hairdressing.

The session artists who influence global trends and brands… The salon owners who build brilliant high street businesses… The image makers…

The ground-breakers… And the everyday stylists whose skills and compassion transform lives on a daily basis.

As the years went by, Most Wanted grew – bigger venues, starrier hosts. It swept through Shoreditch Town Hall, Banqueting House (a Royal Palace, no less), the Royal Courts of Justice, Guildhall, the Natural History Museum, Tate Modern and Printworks. Celebrities Jimmy Carr, Keith Lemon, Katherine Ryan and Jack Whitehall have all presided over the celebration. To be honest, those 20 years seem to have gone by in a flash. But most of all we remember the incredible passion this industry has for its craft and for each other.

Most Wanted, we salute you. And Most Wanted salutes you right back – we’re committed to celebrating our stars of 2020… even if that happens in 2021.

You can’t stop this party – so let’s follow the journey so far, and meet the finalists battling it out for those coveted titles!

1 MARCH

THE LAUNCH OF MOST WANTED 2020!

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23 MARCHTENDED

TE EX CLOSING DA AS FORCED TO CLOSE

SALONS ARE LOCKDOWN. WITH THE UK GOES INTO INGS TO THINK TH G SIN MORE PRES CK THE MOST BA ABOUT, WE PUSHED TO 10 JUNE, TE DA G IN OS WANTED CL SHY OF A ST JU GIVING EVERYONE TO PUT H NT MO A TR EX WHOLE ER TH GE TO THEIR ENTRIES

10/12/2020 11:20

“Great variety of work, styles, textures” HARRY EVANS, DESIGNER –JUDGE

THE 2020 MOST WANTED AWARDS FINALISTS ARE…

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

COLOUR EXPERT

GARETH BROMELL

AMY FISH

Henshīn by Gareth Bromell, Ireland

Larry King, London

ANNA COFONE

ASHLEIGH HODGES

London

London

LISA FARRALL

JACK HOWARD

WIG London, London

Paul Edmonds London, London

LEIGH KEATES

ZOË IRWIN

London

John Frieda, London

SHAUN MCINTOSH

PADDY MCDOUGALL

London

Rainbow Room International, Glasgow

Category sponsor BaByliss PRO

Category sponsor Wella Professionals

“Fabulous energy”

LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS, MAKE-UP ARTIST–JUDGE

CREATIVE TALENT

Category sponsor L’Oréal Professionnel Paris

GARETH BROMELL Henshīn by Gareth Bromell, Ireland

JOHANNA CREE BROWN Trevor Sorbie, London

ZOË IRWIN

BUSINESS THINKER

John Frieda, London

Category sponsor Treatwell

RICHARD PHILLIPART

GAVIN MILLS

The Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port

Bad Apple Hair, Liverpool and West Midlands

KYLE ROSS Sovereign Grooming, Aberdeen

CAROLINE SANDERSON Ego Hair Design, Inverness

SIMON TUCKWELL, Tuckwell & Co, Nottingham

MARK WOOLLEY Electric Hairdressing, Liverpool, London and southern England

ANNE VECK

27

Anne Veck, Oxford

2020 VENMARCH UE R WHEN YO U KNOW EVEALED YO A

GOOD U’RE O TO LET IT THING, YOU’D BE NTO SILLY GO, RIGH WE’RE BR T INGING M ? THAT ’S WHY OST WAN BACK TO T P LONDON RINT WORKS, TH ED E LANDMA R K THA A BEACO N FOR A T ’S GOOD PA RTY!

“Talented, creative and amazing with vision”

SYD HAYES, SESSION STYLIST–JUDGE

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“BOOOOOM SHAK KK category – doing KA LAKKKA IM A FINALIST! W hat a it for the INDEP @creativeheadm ag for putting on ENDENTS!! Thank you an event that repr the best of ESPECIALLY thos our industry and giving ever yone esents e runnin a voice to run in the ocea g solo. Thank you so much – tim e n naked and drin k some whisky!!!” @LISAFARRALL

– FINALIST

WANT ALL the Most Wanted updates?

Visit creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted

10/12/2020 16:24

11 MAY

MWIT GETS DIGITAL

AS LOCKDOWN GREW LONGER, WE UNDERSTOOD THAT FOR SOME ENTRANTS SUBMITTING A HARD COPY ENTRY WOULDN’T BE POSSIBLE – SO WE ALLOWED BOTH DIGITAL AND HARD COPY ENTRIES TO BE SUBMITTED

“Wow. Never fails to impress”

10 JUNE

LEIGH KEATES, SESSION STYLIST –JUDGE

DEADLINE DAY!

AFTER MONTHS OF HARD WORK AND DEDICATION, THE TIME HAD COME TO DOT THE LAST I’S AND CROSS THE FINAL T’S ON THOSE 2020 ENTRIES!

MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

Category sponsor American Crew

Category sponsor Kérastase

LEAH HAYDEN CASSIDY

TIM BINNINGTON

Unit 8 by Hayden, London

for Manta Hair

TOM CHAPMAN

RAYMOND BOTTONE & SIMON HARRIS

Torquay

for MySalonManager

LOUIS MAHARAJ

JESSICA CRANE

Toni&Guy, London

for Systemise For Success

RINO RICCIO

PETER JOHNSON

Manifesto, London

for Itzi

JODY TAYLOR

ADEE PHELAN for Thank You NHS gift boxes

London

g panel and the judgin 020. It’s g a m d a e h ve tion 2 @creati “THANK YOU me for the Award for Innova every barber, g to , n o ti S a for nomin of my life. ct company, est 4 months been the hard ery wholesaler, every produ courier every salon, ev , all the printing companies, every celebrity is for you and you 100%” is companies, th ALIST FIN _PHELAN_5 –

@ADEE

BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON Category sponsor ALFAPARF Milano

BOND London

DON HAIRPORT London

BEST NEW SALON

PAINT + POWDER

Category sponsor Timely

Stafford

ADAM REED LONDON

PR HAIR

London

London

ALCHEMY & I

THE SECRET GARDEN

Berkhamsted

GATSBY & MILLER Amersham

HENSHĪN Co Limerick

MESART Glasgow

Leicester

“This is a MASSIVE COMPETITION in the hairdressing industry – all our hairdressing friends will know this and to all our clients imagine this like The Brit Awards! We are so HAPPY right now and can’t wait for the final night” @THESECRETGARDENHAIR– FINALIST

“Lovely sense of togetherness” STEPHEN NURSE, DANIEL GALVIN –JUDGE

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08/12/2020 16:22

“Challenging convention.

Pushing strong, uncompromising ideas. So brilliantly bold!”

11 J0UHNAIER ICON

THE 202ARE REVEALELD! S TIA FINALIMSATZING 95 INFLUWEONRLDS

THE AN A N AND ACROSS NAMES EAUTY, FASHIO IR E B H , T IR D OF HA EDIA SHARE THAT THE M NS TO GIVE US TIO !

NOMINA RRIFIC TOP 10 TE

BEST SALON TEAM

CLAUDIA CROFT, 10 MAGAZINE –JUDGE

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE

Category sponsor Paul Mitchell

Category sponsor Phorest Salon Software

BLOGGS SALONS HARBOURSIDE

GATSBY & MILLER

Bristol

Amersham

EGO HAIR DESIGN

MAYFIVE

Inverness

London

MALCOLM MURPHY HAIR

ROSE & WILD

Leicester

London

MANIFESTO

SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP

London (King’s Cross)

Ashbourne

TINT

STIL

Leeds

London

BEST LOCAL SALON

by getting “Amazing way to celebrate 10 years of @bloggssalons IT20 – #MW mag head ative @cre of through to the grand final , their work hard ’s team the ge owled this award really does ackn achievements and successes over the year”

Category sponsor TIGI

@BLOGGSSALONS – FINALIST

DKUK London

MALCOLM MURPHY HAIR Leicester

SARAI HAIR AND BEAUTY Crowthorne

STAG Edinburgh

TUCKWELL & CO Nottingham

s alert!!! @roseandwildhair “Whoa whoa whoa incredible new on Experience award by Sal has been nominated for the Best is great to be recognised for @creativeheadmag #mwit20. It that our team and I put into all of the hard work and dedication erience each and every day delivering high-end exp (especially during a pandemic)”

@ROSEANDWILDHAIR – FINALIST

“Ahead of the curve” TRACEY WOODWARD, TWA –JUDGE

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WATCH THE VIDEO – hear from the

judges – feel the Grand Final buzz – over at creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted

08/12/2020 16:22

“Extremely skilled and knowledgeable” ADAM SLAMA, PHOTOGRAPHER AND DIRECTOR –JUDGE

HAIR TREND

Category sponsor Redken

GARETH BROMELL Henshīn by Gareth Bromell, Ireland

ANNA COFONE London

RICHARD PHILLIPART The Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port

LEONARDO RIZZO Sanrizz, Guildford ANNE VECK Anne Veck, Oxford

30 JUNE

THE GRAND FINAL MBER VE MO S TO 29 NOVE HANGING

DUE TO THE EVER-C WE OPT TO COVID-19 RESTRICTIONS, D FINAL AN GR E TH PRESS PAUSE ON ER IN LAT R FO ULE ED CH RES AND CE IEN PAT R. THE YEA IS A VIRTUE…

SESSION STYLIST Category sponsor BaByliss PRO

SYD HAYES LUKE HERSHESON LARRY KING GUIDO PALAU ANTHONY TURNER

6 JULINYG DAY

THE JUDBGIGGEST NAMES

E SOME OF TH SHION AUTY AND FA E B , IR STUDIOS K IN THE HA ED AT LOC ER TH A G S A SUITABLE INDUSTRIE DON (ALL AT IN EAST LON JUDGE THE TO ) F COURSE! O , E C N TA DIS TRIES THAT MBER OF EN RECORD NU T WO DAYS VED… JUST ED. WERE RECEI P NS REO EN AFTER SALO T! EN M IT M THAT ’S COM

“The passion for the industry is infectious” PAUL PERCIVAL, PERCY & REED –JUDGE 046-051_MW UK FINAL.indd 5

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“The entries are very, very strong”

“truly inspiring. left me with a new passion for our wonderful industry. Bring on the FINAL”

SAM MCKNIGHT, SESSION STYLIST –JUDGE

ALEX BARRON-HOUGH, PHOTOGRAPHER AND PRODUCER –JUDGE

HAIR ICON

Category sponsor JOICO

SALLY BROOKS NICOLA CLARKE GARY GILL SYD HAYES ZOË IRWIN GUIDO PALAU ADAM REED EUGENE SOULEIMAN ANTHONY TURNER JOSH WOOD

7 OCTOFINBAELRGETS

8 JULY

THE GRAND E TO PARTY A NEWEDDAATLTERNATIVES. BUT OURE

THE FINALISTS ARE UNVEILED…

20 20 2020

THE GRAND FINAL – UP NEXT! THE MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST 2020 GRAND FINAL HITS PRINTWORKS ON 29 MARCH – AND BOY, WILL WE BE READY FOR IT!

FOR ALL THOSE ALREADY HOLDING GRAND FINAL TICKETS, YOUR PLACES ARE SECURE. STILL HOPING TO BUY? ADDITIONAL TICKETS MAY BE RELEASED IN FEBRUARY. IF YOU’RE ON THE WAIT LIST, WE’LL CONTACT YOU FIRST. NAME’S NOT DOWN? SIGN UP FOR EVENT NEWS AND TICKET ALERTS AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/NEWSLETTER. AND AS FOR 2021’S MOST WANTED COMPETITION… WELL, THAT WILL BE FULL STEAM AHEAD FROM APRIL! WE’RE ALREADY PLANNING THE LAUNCH TO ENSURE IT KICKS OFF WITH A MIGHTY BANG! GOT QUESTIONS about the #MWIT20 Grand Final? Call 01434 610 940

THANK YOU FOR YOUR PATIENCE OVER THE PAST FEW MONTHS AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE EXCITEMENT FROM THE IT LIST NEXT MONTH...

Imagery contained within this feature has been provided by finalists and cleared for publication in Creative HEAD. Judging day photography by Sarah Seal

TH ER WE CONSID ERVE THEIR MOMENT IN E OF C ES N D IE D TS U S A LI N A A FIN FEEL LAUSE, TO TLIGHT. TO #MWIT SPO PEERS ERUPT INTO APP ELECTRIC AND 700 MORE THAN H A DELICIOUS DINNER RIVALLED IT U W T N CELEBRATE Y, TO EXPERIENCE THA JUST CAN’T T R U PA YO S AFTER THE THING E R A E GS WE JUST IN ES BUZZ; TH RE THE TH AT ’S WHY A E ES TH D AN TH REPLICATE, TO COMPROMISE ON. UNTIL L T DON’T WAN NED THE GRAND FINA E’LL O EW TP IS S O M P O E R P W 021, BUT WE 29 MARCH 2 WORTH THE WAIT… MAKE IT

INDUSTRY INNOVATORS… COMMUNITY AMBASSADORS …

DRIVERS OF BUSINESS BRILLIAN CE… OUR 75 MOST FABULOUS MOS T WANTED FINALISTS WERE NAMED

PROUD TO SPONSOR MOST WANTED 2020

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… u o y s e m o c l e w

art.barbers

In the flourishing creative district of Digbeth in Birmingham you’ll find art.barbers – the first official UK partner of online booking app Booksy and featuring shelves stocked with American Crew.

Sam Wall

Mr. Q

NEW GROOM ROOM

picked it up. I’ve been able to travel the world, meet incredible people (clients and colleagues), educate for Andis and every day I wake up knowing there’s going to be a different adventure.

D E E N T… U O Y MEE LEAH HAYDEN CASSIDY Unit 8 by Hayden TO Describe yourself in five words Enthusiastic, energetic, diligent, positive, fearless of failure (that’s when we learn the most!).

What’s exciting you about British barbering/ male grooming right now?

This year has been difficult for everybody, but I’m proud of how much we have all come together to share support and be there for each other. I’ve never seen so many creative projects happening and it really feels like everybody is willing to step out of their comfort zone.

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Who else should we get to know…

Kevin Luchmun (@kevinluchmun), Jody Taylor (@jodytaylorhair), Anthony Turner (@anthonyturnerhair), Slidercuts (@slidercuts), Kenny Duncan (@kduncangrooming), Barber Josh OP (@barber.josh.o.p) and Josh Lamonaca (@joshlamonaca).

You might not know this about me…

My first passion and career goal was to be a professional footballer. I got a scholarship to play football in the US when I was 17 and had three successful years there until I broke my leg in a tackle and was told I could never play again.

If I could change one thing…

I would change the negativity and egos that can sometimes appear. I’ve seen it before, online at shows or events, and I disregard that behaviour.

Right now, I’m loving…

The Andis Slimline Pro GTX features a GTX blade which is slightly larger than the original Slimline Pro, it’s incredible to work with. I also love the copper ProFoil Lithium Titanium Foil Shaver.

Everything changed for me when…

I started as a barber through a friend who had

Say hello to me… @hayden_cassidy, haydencassidy.com

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The barber that inspired me is…

Alan Beak, co-owner of Ruger Barber. He was the first person that told me to really push myself and believe I can do anything.

A FITTING TRIBUTE A team of more than 20 barbers including including Kevin Luchmun, Ky Wilson, Jody Taylor, Leah Hayden Cassidy and Alan Beak has raised more than £15,000 following the tragic suicide of Sam Wall. Each barber ran 60km throughout November to raise money for Movember. To donate in Sam’s memory, visit uk.movember. com/team/2388727. If you would like to talk, Samaritans can be contacted on 116 123 or email jo@samaritans.org

Clean formulas, improved product performance and even better fragrances, the revamped Grab haircare line from the new American Crew also copper edition comes in bottles that are of the cordless made with 80 per cent ProFoil Lithium recycled plastic.

Titanium Foil Shaver from Andis, perfect for From £11.50 finishing a close cut. americancrew. com £99 andis.com CREATIVE HEAD

10/12/2020 15:39

KEEP IT CLEAN

NEW FROM GROOMING LEGEND AMERICAN CREW COMES A BETTER-THAN-EVER HAIRCARE COLLECTION THAT’S VEGAN, SILICONE-FREE AND DELIVERED IN RE-ENGINEERED PACKAGING. CLEAN IS THE DREAM… EVERYONE LIKES TO have something to celebrate in the New Year and, after more than 25 years of setting the trends in men’s grooming, American Crew is still keeping it fresh with a new and improved haircare collection.Yes, that’s news enough, but there’s more – every little update and tweak goes to illustrate the brand’s commitment to environmental sustainability.

The line is vegan and silicone-free, and features re-engineered packaging made with a minimum of 80 per cent Post-Consumer Recycled plastic in an array of retail sizes (250ml, 450ml and 1L). It’s a key initiative to start reducing energy consumption.

That’s all brilliant, but it still needs to perform. No problem – the new collection includes an enhanced range of shampoos and conditioner to provide expert, professional solutions to men’s diverse hair needs. Its new emulsifying system delivers richer lather and thicker, denser foam for a luxurious experience, to ensure your client’s hair feels soft and nourished. This collection has a high percentage of naturally-derived ingredients – think coconut shell beads to exfoliate and mineral-rich Manicouagan clay – while each formula contains vitamin B5 to provide moisture and promote healthy-looking hair. And, of course, there’s the hit of the iconic citrus mint fragrance, delivering a refreshing and invigorating experience every time it’s used.

David Raccuglia, founder of American Crew, says: “We worked hard to address concerns with environmental sustainability and responding to the diverse needs of our customers.”

More than 30,000 salons and barber shops across 50 countries partner with American Crew to give the guys exactly what they need. Refresh what’s on offer to your clientele while also illustrating your eco credentials, with the new haircare collection from American Crew.

The dream cleaning machine is new American Crew Detox Shampoo, an exfoliating and detoxifying shampoo for a deep cleansing experience

You’ll find high-performing formulas in American Crew Daily Cleansing Shampoo, Daily Deep Moisturizing Shampoo and Daily Moisturizing Conditioner – there’s something for every head of hair!

Make it a fresh start with the new and improved haircare collection from American Crew.

Call 020 7391 7440, visit revlonproshop.com and follow @AmericanCrewUK CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR Darren Webster (@dwebster_hair) using BaByliss PRO (@babylissprouk) MAKE-UP Elizabeth Rita (@elizabethritamua) STYLING Bernard Connolly (@bernardstylist)

FREDERIC ASPIRAS HAS BEEN LADY GAGA GAGA’S MASTER HAIR AND WIG STYLIST FOR AN ASTONISHING 11 YEARS. A MEMBER OF THE ICONIC CREATIVE SQUAD THE HAUS OF GAGA, HIS WORK HAS BEEN FEATURED IN TITLES SUCH AS HARPER’S BAZAAR, ELLE AND ALLURE, HE’S BEEN NOMINATED FOR MULTIPLE EMMYS AND RECEIVED THE GUILD AWARD FOR HIS WORK ON AMERICAN HORROR STORY: HOTEL. IN AN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH CREATIVE HEAD EDITOR AMANDA NOTTAGE, HE TALKS ABOUT UNDERSTANDING CHARACTERS AND ENSURING GAGA NEVER MISSES HER WEEKLY JOICO HAIR TREATMENT…

Lady Gaga at the LA premiere of A Star is Born

YOÜ

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mother, who was a hairdresser. I was a young child actor, I did a lot of creative things and really didn’t know in which direction I wanted to go. I was really blessed to have a mother who allowed me to live freely; she inspired me to delve into my own head and allow me to really be myself. She saw how I interacted with her clients on a daily basis, talking to people and helping them feel better, and something about that touched me. I started doing freelance work in San Francisco, until I moved to LA to pursue a career in entertainment. From being an actor, I understood creating characters, a story that goes with hair or make-up or wardrobe. It’s understanding a person’s story, whether it be a celebrity or pop star or a housewife with kids. There are no limitations when you think like that. There is no textbook.

Ü &I Q: You’ve been working with Lady Gaga for 11 years

now and you work with her exclusively. Considering your approach to character, it must feel like the stars aligned when you met…

A: It honestly does feel like that. We were both in worlds where

no-one was doing what we were doing in creating a story. I don’t understand how we don’t kill each other but we don’t! I enjoy the process of creating something with her so much. And it’s something that an artist dreams about, because you’re given freedom to create something that is in your head, but through someone else’s creation. And what’s also scary about that is you’re given that freedom, right? It’s a double-edged thing!

It felt like I was preparing for someone like this my entire career.

Ever since I was a kid I looked up to creative minds like David Bowie, Madonna, Prince. I have an encyclopaedia of references in my head, I kid you not, and Gaga and I challenge each other.

We’re like “Oh no, it’s Avedon in 1968”, or “this is Paltrow wearing the pink Ralph Lauren dress”. Other people in the room are like: “You guys…”. It was a slow process. In the beginning it wasn’t just serendipitous, it was like “What are you going to do? Are you gonna ruin my career? Are you not listening?”. But by going through the process of delivering what was in her head, we trust each other now.

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Frederic with Lady Gaga at the 2019 Daily Front Row Fashion Los Angeles Awards

Q: Let’s start at the beginning – why hair?

A: I was introduced to the hair industry when I was 13 by my

Q: How did it all begin with Gaga?

A: I was working with Paris Hilton, travelling the world and we

had a really strong relationship but I thought: ‘Okay, what else am I going to do?’. I was laying in bed when I got a call from my agent who asked if I wanted to work with this new artist named Lady Gaga, who was going on a tour for two months. I was like: “who is Lady Gaga?”. The next day, the MTV VMAs were on and she was on stage bleeding! And I was thinking: ‘Wow, she reminds me of Bowie’. Nothing was like this on television, or in the world at that time. Nothing that was avant-garde or pushing the envelope or had a storyline or was really theatrical. I felt the spark and thought ‘Oh my God, I’ve got to deliver something amazing!’.

At our first meeting she asked me to create a wig for her show, which would be seen by millions of people around the world – like, okay! That’s how she works, she’s direct and knows exactly what she wants. I thought: ‘This is great, I love the direction, I love the challenge.’ At the time, there weren’t many people who were working with extensions and wigs, it was kind of a specialised craft. I love doing wigs because I love the transformation due to my theatrical background.

And that two-month theatre tour turned into the three-year Monster Ball tour! We travelled around the world about three times, it was crazy. All of a sudden, I was living like a rolling stone, always moving around, we were like gypsies on the road. It was new to us; there I was with someone who was only 22 years old and new to fame, and I was dealing with changes in my life, too.

We were both transitioning from something and we were there for each other, personally and professionally.

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At the 2020 MTV Video Music Awards

Frederic Aspiras

Q: What’s the favourite hair look that you’ve ever created for her?

Q: You’re a key member of the Haus

of Gaga, the creative team behind the artist. What’s that experience like?

A: You might as well ask me what my tax

A: Through the years, as we found all the key

returns are! That’s too hard! Normally what makes me like something is members, we became a family that travelled when she likes it the most, not together. We all share the same passion. Before because it looks beautiful, but it every job we fill a room full of creative minds makes her feel beautiful. She felt that lead each department – her wardrobe, her so beautiful at the Grammys, choreography, her make-up, nails, hair – and we wearing that Celine by Hedi tackle the big picture. It all stems from her ideas Slimane dress and she had that she want to see come to fruition. It’s very very casual hair, very natural. interesting because you have Pop Star Gaga, She felt so happy and free, and Actor Gaga, Philanthropist and Activist Gaga. to me that felt more important than We have to create a look that is synonymous or trying to top the last work, or trying identifies each world. It can’t be that you turn on to stay current with trends. the TV and you see Gaga singing for Joe Biden Another favourite was the in a meat dress, you know what I mean?

How good are you look at the LA premiere of Each department brings their ideas A Star is Born (pictured under pressure, do you collectively. It’s a series of meetings and phone on previous page). She conversations and I present her with multiple thrive on that? looked like a star in the hair stories, like when a designer creates a sky. She’s wearing that collection. That’s why we call it the Haus I wish I did, because it would be so much capelet dress made of Gaga, it’s like an atelier, complete with easier, but it doesn’t work like that! Because of of liquid silver on fittings and trials. Sometimes I create a her, I’ve become a much better artist. She sees the lace. It was such wig that I’ve worked on for weeks and potential in people and pushes them to go further. At an inspiration, I it gets scrapped the night before. I’m the Oscars, we were doing an abstract version of Audrey coloured her obviously like: “Argh!” But I’m still okay, Hepburn, but it was a risk – are we doing Lady Gaga on the hair with a because sometimes it just doesn’t red carpet, are we doing Hollywood Gaga? chrome tone. work. What are you going to do?

It was about owning my identity and reading her mind, hearing: She felt With the Haus of Gaga, we see ‘I know you really want to do this because this is what you actually confident that she really respects us. Each like the most. You don’t want a simple top knot or bun, you really want and one of us in our department, to show off! I’m going to give you the time to do this, but it had better regal. there’s not an ego in the room. look good!’. That’s the challenge, it takes a lot of mental preparation. It’s the Although we get stressed I pressure that I guess I’m so used to working with, and it’s something that I’ve have more fun doing the learnt to appreciate. If you’re just going to do something boring, then what’s the creative process than I point? That’s why we always strive to do the fantastic. She said: “Okay, let’s do this. do the actual day of I have the Breakfast at Tiffany’s diamond on, I might as well be brilliant!” the performance.

Q:

A:

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sleep at night, I think: ‘Oh, I’ve got to colour her hair tomorrow morning and not have it all fall out’, because for the Oscars we coloured her hair the night before. People do this weeks ahead!

Thank God I partnered with JOICO. I reached out because I know that it makes products that protect hair, especially blonde hair, from damage. We’ve been using JOICO to get her hair to grow. One incident happened after filming A Star is Born. She had coloured her hair dark brown for the movie with another colourist, and the process of removing it caused her hair to break.

Trying to get her hair back to shape was difficult – we had all these press junkets to do! I wanted products to help repair damaged, bleached hair. When you colour hair so much – we’ve done the spectrum – it needs help to get back to health. That’s when we started using the JOICO Defy Damage ProSeries and it’s now back to a healthy state. I use JOICO Defy Damage ProSeries whenever we do any colouring. That’s something I trust. When you’re colouring for someone whose hair will be seen around the world by millions of people, you can’t afford to make mistakes. The ProSeries 1 and 2, and the shampoo and conditioner are a godsend.

I can create freely and use her own hair without damaging it when we do transformational looks. Defy Damage works wonders with wigs too, because when you’re working with wigs that cost thousands of dollars, you can’t afford to mess it up!

During the process we have weekly treatments. There is a wonderful product called Defy Damage Protective Masque that I get her to do once a week. Even if she’s using a wig, I still have to style her hair underneath. Prior to heat styling we use the Defy Damage Protective Shield. Together, they protect her hair and if you keep it up you can have long, platinum hair.

At the 2020 AT&T TV Super Saturday Night

Q: Which look, style or colour has been the most difficult to create?

A: My biggest fear is to see hair damaged by the process. That’s what I worry about before I

Q: Even with that mental encyclopaedia of references, do you worry you’ll ever run out of Ideas?

A: No! Not to be cheeky, but there’s so much inspiration in the world, and the reason why we

Q: So that begs the question, what comes next?

All images courtesy of Getty Images and Shutterstock

What’s the next big project?

A: Right now, I’m working on myself. I’ve had a really

terrible year personally as my mother died, so I’m trying to find an outlet creatively through my work, and that’s what my mother taught me to do. That strength and working with Gaga this year has allowed me to heal. My job in the future is to make the world a happier place through my creativity and sharing knowledge through my work.

There’s always somebody that needs a little lift.

In 2021, in terms of work, we have the Gucci movie coming up. That’s going to be fun again, more character work. We did a wonderful launch for Chromatica and we were in pop icon mode; now we’re back to film and I’m very excited to start the project.

I’m excited to work again, we’ve been locked down.

It was very difficult to work remotely, but we did our best. But who knows what will happen? I’m hopeful.

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At the 2019 Met Gala

don’t lose inspiration is because we don’t follow trends. For instance, for Gaga’s Chromatica album, we visited some of her old colours because there was a sense of almost coming full circle. If you listen to the album it’s about her story, her message of overcoming mental health issues, and also for me, it represents my journey as a hairdresser.

We did something to help promote Joe Biden’s campaign for the US presidency where we did some iconic looks. We had to bring back my archive of wigs, nine or 10 looks.

Sometimes the references are literally in front of you – I kind of referenced myself!

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WITH MUCH UNCERTAINTY AROUND AND THE SCARS OF 2020 STILL FRESH, CLIENTS AND STAFF ARE ONCE AGAIN TURNING TO SALONS AS A PLACE OF REFUGE, OF HEALING, PROTECTION AND SELF-CARE. WELCOME EVERY ONE TO...

A PLACE FOR EVERYTHING

Takara Belmont

DISTANCING MEASURES ARE GOING TO LAST FOR SOME TIME YET. TETSUYA ITO, UK CHIEF DESIGNER AT TAKARA BELMONT, SHARES HIS TOP TIPS FOR MANAGING YOUR BUSINESS THROUGH IT ALL AND CREATING MORE VALUE FOR THE CUSTOMER

• Reconfigure space where possible to meet the rules, which is 2m with social distancing or 1m with a divider and faceguard.

If possible, move chairs further apart to create more space between styling chairs. This can be a challenge if styling

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positions are fixed – you may have to take a position out altogether – but simple changes can give you more flexibility. These include having a wider, seamless mirror, freestanding mirrors or moveable styling stations.

• Could moving the reception desk create more space? Having the reception in position creates an important and welcoming impression, but clients will understand if it has to be sacrificed for safety reasons.

• Don’t just move things around without a thought process behind it; you need to maintain an ambience and create the

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CATERING FOR ALL

Andrew Collinge Hairdressing has always focused on creating a salon environment which is as accessible to as many people as possible. Charlie Collinge, managing director of the group, says: “We have long supported Hft, a charity that helps people with learning disabilities. We adapt our environments to make them more accessible – in particular bathrooms, step-free access to salons and removable backwash seating for wheelchair users.”

Similarly, Anthony & Patricia Hairdressing in Manchester has a Noah’s Ark children’s section which includes the Lifeboat room, a quiet, safe space designed for children with autism and other sensory needs. Rather than force children to sit in unfamiliar chairs, they can sit in toy-like seating and feel more at ease.

Helping clients to feel comfortable, no matter who they are or how they present themselves, can earn you key returners that are so crucial. STAG Barber Co. in Edinburgh is known for its unisex appeal, and owner Murray McRae hired an extensions specialist after reading an article about journalist Juno Dawson, who got extensions as part of her transition process.

“The ownership of their outward presentation is empowering – no more ambiguity,” he explains.

Sometimes a safe space is literal, not just figurative.

F&M Hairdressing in East Renfrewshire has been certified by Police Scotland as a SAFEPLACE, as part of the I AM ME initiative. The salon has a ‘Keep Safe’ logo in the windows, and if someone is in need of assistance they can simply walk in and say ‘Keep Safe’.

Birmingham salon Joshuaa Shaun Hair is continuing to invest in its inclusivity ethos with support for staff, including access to mental health experts and increased holiday allowance to help fight burn-out.

Owner Joshua Forde notes that “we make clients feel good about themselves; I want staff to feel good about themselves too”.

Similarly, Rainbow Room International group in Scotland is working with the charity Mind, so employees can access mental health support if they need to.

right mood. Clients have been deprived of their visits to the salon, and when they do come, everything has changed. People value the time they spend there, so manage your environment and consider how and where everything needs to go.

• Fix a lighting rail with a spotlight system, so you can move and position your lighting as you move styling positions. Post Covid-19, it can serve as a flexible and effective lighting feature.

• Consider introducing new services that are not space-intensive, can enhance the customer’s appointment, raise the quality of service and help maximise income. Takara Belmont’s Spa Mist II

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and Micro Mist mobile processors, for example, improve colour and treatment services, as well as introducing spa-style hand treatments. The Roller Ball F processor from Takara Belmont halves colour processing time so you can see more clients. These innovations can be moved to the customer at their styling station, limiting the amount of walking around in the salon, which minimises close contact and reassures clients.

• Interpersonal exchange between clients and the team is key. The importance of a salon visit to clients has no doubt increased, so you need to raise the bar and find ways to make it extra special.

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Takara Belmont

CHANGING SPACES TAKARA BELMONT HAS BEEN DESIGNING SALON SPACES AND BEAUTIFUL INTERIOR FURNITURE FOR DECADES. WHEN SO MUCH IS UNCERTAIN, KNOWING YOU HAVE EXPERT INTERIOR ADVICE IN YOUR CORNER CAN GO A LONG WAY TO SOOTHING FRAZZLED NERVES COVID-19 HAS fundamentally changed the salon, both as a workplace environment and as a vital service space for clients. From the moment the first lockdown was announced, salons immediately set about preparing for the new normal and welcoming clients back in an entirely different way. With a complete restructuring of appointments, the implementation of social distancing measures, the provision of effective PPE and having to rethink where – and how – clients received services, salons held their nerve and responded confidently.

In an industry where the interaction between the stylist and their client is not only integral to the delivery of services but vital to their inter-personal relationship, this marked a seismic shift in how hairdressing businesses were used to doing things.

The industry has adapted quickly and without fuss – as ever, the clients and team members come first. But with some degree of confusion regarding the rules, especially in different regions of

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the country, compliance can be a tricky balancing act. With safety paramount to salon teams and clients, Takara Belmont’s contact with salons, barbers and its network of UK dealers puts the brand in a unique position. Many salons call for advice and, as a result, here are the most frequently raised topics…

CONTROL THE VIRUS Understand how Covid-19 spreads! Research suggests the main spread of the virus is from close contact with one another – so ensure you stay two metres apart at all times wherever possible.

To restrict transmission, it’s vital that you wear the correct PPE – medical grade gloves, surgical masks, disposable aprons and gowns – and to ensure all PPE equipment is purchased, worn and disposed of in accordance with HSE regulations. Make sure clients are aware of this requirement and comply as well, such as wearing a face covering and sanitising their hands during their visit.

IMPLEMENT INFECTION PROTECTION Both stylists and clients should wash hands frequently. Do this before, during and after any treatment, and between each client.

To maximise the safety of both clients and staff, consider investing in disposable gowns and disposable towels. This also saves on your washing costs, too! Where possible look for environmentallyfriendly and recyclable products available to the industry.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

SPACE OUT YOUR STYLING SECTIONS Where practical and possible, reconfigure your floorplan by moving your styling positions apart to comply with social distancing rules, or taking out a chair/position altogether. If this is not possible, consider removing every other chair position to give your staff enough space to work comfortably and safely.

REMOVE YOUR WAITING AREA Try to avoid overlapping appointment times. Enforce this by notifying clients ahead of time that there is a potential wait outside the salon should they arrive earlier than their allotted time. Allow time in-between clients to disinfect workstations and thoroughly clean all equipment utilised during each treatment.

Takara Belmont

ENSURE COMPLIANCE Remain up-to-date on all government policies, regulations and guidelines. Where possible, reduce the amount of time treatments take so you can achieve a faster turnaround. This will help you see more clients in a restricted environment, which will help to maintain income levels. For example, invest in a colour and treatment processor, which actually enhances the client experience too.

The Takara Belmont Rollerball F colour processor cuts down development time by half, with the maximum treatment time reduced to under 15 minutes. Provide visual guides throughout the salon to help clients comply with your safety procedures, and consider notifying clients before each visit to prepare them for any new or additional extra precautions you have taken.

Takara Belmont

If you can, seek professional advice about how to create a safer space while protecting service revenues and elevating your customer experience.

Takara Belmont’s expert Salon Design Team can help you to reconfigure your approach to design and layout if you’re unsure of where to start.

A SALON N SERVICE SIG DE ILABLE AVA IS SALONS TO E FRE EST IN INV AT TH LMONT BE A AR TAK NT* ME UIP EQ

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HOW TAKARA BELMONT CAN HELP TO SHAPE YOUR FUTURE, VISIT TAKARAHAIRDRESSING.CO.UK, EMAIL HAIRDRESSING�TAKARA.CO.UK OR CALL 020 7515 0333

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*Free Salon Design Service subject to T&Cs, see website for details

RE-DESIGN

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Mewies & Co

Mewies & Co

AN OASIS OF CALM

Mewies & Co

Gary Ingham Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa

At Mewies & Co. in Mountsorrel, Leicestershire, founder and Authentic Beauty Concept digital ambassador, Dan Mewies, was adamant that the salon could remain a relaxing, healing environment even with the addition of safety barriers.

“Our clients have always enjoyed the tranquillity of appointments. Rather than allowing the additional safety measures to hamper the look and feel of the salon, we embraced the changes and installed screens that are both beautiful and functional,” he explains. “The botanical screens, along with the rest of the greenery in the salon, add vibrancy while reducing stress levels and helping with the mindful ethos we practise.”

They’re not the only ones tapping into their salon’s vibes to restore some harmony to the new measures being taken. The Gary Ingham Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa in Hampstead was entirely redesigned due to Covid-19, fusing its relaxing, high-end ambience with safety features. Bespoke pieces are scattered throughout the salon, including handmade, recyclable glass and timber screening.

Owner Gary was insistent that no plastics were to be used and only used materials that are easy to recycle if, and when, the safety measures are no longer needed.

For those who are either at risk or feeling vulnerable at spending extended amounts of time in salons, it’s crucial to re-evaluate your use of space. It’s something else Dan Mewies has done, transforming the in-house yoga studio into an additional room for a one-on-one client experience.

CLEAN AND SERENE Brands have produced an astonishing array of items to respond to the pandemic, which are now much more widely available and affordable. The iconic blue of Disicide has never been a more welcome sight, with staff safe in the knowledge that its intensive sterilising formula will keep their tools clean.

The formulas in all of the products are waterbased, alcohol- and solvent-free, and are recognised as hospital-grade disinfectant. It also launched its Plus+ range last summer, which can be used on all water-resistant and porous surfaces as well as textiles and leather.

Hair Tools is now offering a free Disicide education course, sharing best practices and methods for top standard hygiene, resulting in a certificate you can display in your salon.

Such visual cues as certificates are hugely important for both clients and staff. L’Oréal Professional Product Division’s Hygiene and Safety e-learning training module keeps you and your staff up-to-date with the best hygiene practices in the salon, and results in a certificate you can proudly display.

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DISINFECTANT. FUNGICIDE. VIRUCIDE.

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SAFETY SCREENS TECHNOLOGY CAN HELP YOU KEEP YOUR SPACE SAFE AS POSSIBLE – YOU MIGHT NOT EVEN REALISE JUST HOW MUCH YOUR SALON SOFTWARE WILL ALLOW YOU KEEP ON TOP OF IT ALL. FOR EXAMPLE, SALON BY PREMIER SOFTWARE PROVIDES KEY FEATURES TO TAKE THE HEADACHES OUT OF COMPLIANCE

APPOINTMENT-READY SMS

Once staff are ready for each client’s treatment, they can send clients an SMS to let them know. Salon lets staff set up the text message and send this through the client card or arrival screen. SMS is also useful to warn recently visited clients who may have been in contact with someone with symptoms.

MEDICAL QUESTIONNAIRES

Create medical questionnaires that include questions related to Covid-19, such as if the client has had a recent loss of taste, a new and persistent cough, or a high temperature. Salon connects with Online by Premier Software to give clients access to the questionnaire online. This enables clients to update their details prior to their next visit, keeping everyone safe.

SOCIAL DISTANCING TIME SLOTS

Salon and Online allow you to lock booking slots to set times of day, limiting the amount of people in the salon at any one time. These time slots can also be lengthened to fit in sanitation between appointments. Staff rotas can be staggered to avoid any crossover between teams.

MOBILE ARRIVALS

With a Premier Mobile licence, you can use a phone or tablet to register when a client has arrived onsite for their appointment and review medical questionnaires.

This means staff can do so from their own device, without the risk of crosscontamination or contact with other surfaces.

ONLINE PAYMENTS

Using Online with Salon, you can provide clients access to bookings online.

Enabling clients to pay for their appointments there and then not only eliminates crowding at reception, but also demonstrates a commitment to their booking.

WILL TALKING ABOUT SUICIDE CAUSE IT? That’s the tough question asked in the BarberTalk education from The Lions Barber Collective, the Most Wanted Award-winning initiative that aims to train barbers and stylists to recognise signs of poor mental health and potentially suicidal thoughts, and help them support clients in need. With the after-effects of the pandemic, lockdowns, furloughs, job losses and resulting impact on family life, it’s expected that there will be a mental health crisis in the UK; the likes of which we’ve never seen before. And as a stylist or barber, you could be hearing up to a dozen stories every working day of clients’ own experiences.

Now is the time to ensure you and your team are ready to handle any difficult conversations. Through the training, you’ll learn four key actions:

• RECOGNISE – what signs should we be looking for? The key word is change – change of appearance, in behaviour, in booking patterns.

• ASK – try direct questions that we often

SUPPORT FOR STAFF YOU CAN INVEST IN EXTERNAL HR, EMOTIONAL AND BUSINESS SUPPORT THROUGH THE CREATIVE HEAD COLLECTIVE MEMBERSHIP, IN PARTNERSHIP WITH CARE FIRST The Creative HEAD Collective is a new membership programme to provide everyone in your salon with support and practical advice on all sorts of issues that might impact wellbeing and performance. The service covers everything from financial and legal matters through to childcare, eldercare, emotional and practical everyday support. Membership includes a dedicated 24/7 counselling and practical advice helpline, a tailored presentation on how to use the scheme, and a bespoke wellbeing programme for your team.

For more information, call 01434 610416, or visit creativeheadmag.com/store

avoid for fear of the answer. Avoid the generic “how are you?”. If you suspect something is wrong, try to ask open questions such as “how are you feeling?” or “how has Covid-19 been for you?”

• LISTEN – let your client talk without

interrupting them, and listen with empathy and without judgement. Really pay attention to what they’re saying.

• HELP – you are not behind that chair to

diagnose or be a therapist, but you can signpost your clients to a number of national bodies, charities and health organisations once you’ve identified that they need help.

For more, visit thelionsbarbercollective.com

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FREE SALON DESIGN SERVICE

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Bring your salon ideas to life with our free Takara Belmont Salon Design Service.

Offering a professional interior design and consultation package, our design team will transform your vision into reality.

www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

* T’s & C’s apply

BELLE DE JOUR In Modern Ethereal from Bloggs Salon, colour and movement are teamed to deliver a consumer-friendly collection that’s fuss-free and utterly wearable

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HAIR Bloggs Artistic Team. MAKE-UP Ellie Kirby CREATIVE HEAD

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While it’s been a whirlwi nd of a year, I couldn ’t be more proud of my tea m

Recording a #Lesso nInLockdown for @creativehead mag Ready for action

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What a welcom ing doorwa y!

Medus a Musse lburgh, Midlot hian #Com eOnIn

frame Colin McAndrew (@colin_medusa), founder of @medusahairdressing in Edinburgh and Wella Professionals creative director, snaps away

Thank you @edinburghsk etcher we love this pic of #med usahan overstre et

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

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Coo l, cont emporary tak e on the mu llet

Lovely and different judging @we llah airu ki – the tale nt was still off the sca le CREATIVE HEAD

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