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£4.50 FEBRUARY 2021

In print•online•everywhere! everywhere!

FEBRUARY 2021 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

Face the future Consumer attitudes are changing. Are you keeping up?

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©Aveda Corp.

100% Vegan. Now & Forever. Aveda Professional Hair Care & Hair Colour Vegan. Plant Infused. Cruelty Free. With a mission of Care and Sustainability at heart.*

JOIN AVEDA TODAY @avedaukpro

0370 192 5650

joinavedauk@aveda.co.uk https://www.aveda.co.uk/professional

*As of July 2019, all products manufactured are 100% vegan—and we are committed to having all vegan products on shelves by January 1, 2021. **Product manufacturing is powered by Aveda’s solar array and/or wind energy through credits and carbon offsets. Striving to achieve a Silver Zero Waste to Landfill certification using the UL scheme by FY 2021 at our primary manufacturing facility. Pioneered 100% post-consumer recycled PET packaging in beauty. Learn more at aveda.com.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Plant-based power Greenwashing just won’t wash with clients – they want real commitment, real action. And that’s what they’ll get with Aveda and its 100 per cent vegan commitment

Why go vegan? Each month, one person's vegan choices saves*

152,207 Litres o water

f

WHAT DOES VEGAN MEAN? Veganism is a philosophy that rejects the idea of raising and using animals as commodities. In simpler terms, veganism is a choice to abstain from using any animal-based products.

281 kilograms of harmful CO2

Planet-friendly products Aveda’s products don’t just do good for the planet – they do wonders for your clients’ hair too! Its latest launch, the Botanical Repair collection, strengthens weakened or damaged hair. This collection is the naturally-derived alternative to professional bond-building treatments on the market… and it packs a punch. In-salon, the Botanical Repair colour treatment takes just 10 minutes, but delivers incredible results. Plant-powered molecules help strengthen hair by multiplying bonds critical to reinforcing hair’s strength and integrity at the core, while a nourishing macro green blend detangles and smooths the cuticle to help prevent breakage – ideal for colour-treated and chemically processed hair. Thereʼs a full take-home range, too. Proof that plant-derived products can perform!

WHY DID AVEDA DECIDE TO GO VEGAN? Going 100 per cent vegan is part of Aveda’s cruelty-free philosophy and environmental mission.

30 animal lives

WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF CHANGING BEAUTY PRODUCTS TO VEGAN? Using vegan beauty products helps lower the demand of animal-derived ingredients and can help protect our planet from related environmental effects including carbon emissions, water usage and deforestation.

93 square feet of forest

*The Plant Way’s Vegan Calculator, referenced by Veganuary

CLIENTS WANT TO know precisely what is going into the items they consume. Aveda has always produced high-performance, plant-powered products, with a brand mission to care for the earth just as much as its clients. And as of 1 January all Aveda retail and professional products are 100 per cent vegan – from haircare to hair colour. Wave goodbye to beeswax, honey, silk, keratin, glycerine, non-vegetal squalene, lanolin, collagen and carmine... with no compromise on the results. And thatʼs the key here – no compromise. Not on ingredients, on formulas, on performance across colour, care and styling products both in-salon and on your retail shelves, or on results your client enjoys. How many of your rival salons can offer that – products that perform AND do good? It can give you a real competitive edge at a time when customers want to spend with brands and businesses they feel good about. Aveda is there every step of the way, ensuring it's shouting about its vegan credentials on all advertising and point of sale materials. Customers wonʼt be able to miss it – and will be hunting out the salons near them to experience that difference for themselves. Thatʼs plant power in full bloom!

TAKE YOUR OWN FIRST STEP TO A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE WITH AVEDA. CALL 0370 192 5650 OR EMAIL JOINAVEDAUK@AVEDA.CO.UK. LEARN MORE ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES AT AVEDA.COM/SUSTAINABLEFUTURE @AVEDAUKPRO CREATIVE HEAD

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@AVEDAUK #AVEDACARES 05

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Feeling stressed, anxious or lonely?


Get free, confidential, professional support Timely backs the beauty industry with more than business management software. We’ve partnered with The Help Hub (thehelphub.co.uk) to provide a free online emotional support service powered by a network of 800 qualified therapists. They offer 20-minute phone or video calls so you can talk to a professional about any challenges you may be having. If you need to talk, we encourage you to sign up for a friendly conversation with one of their volunteers. They promise to listen without judgement, support you and help with ways to move forward where they can.

G E T T I M E LY . C O M


Powered by advanced lithium technology for ultimate cordless cutting performance. Our heavy-duty Super Motor range of professional grooming tools feature ultra-sharp Japanese Steel blades and a high-torque brushless motor for smooth precision cutting, outlining and detailing. And the Titanium Foil Shaver gives exceptional fading and blending. #PoweredByBaByliss


FUTURE PROOF YOUR SALON FOR 2021

Check Your Salon’s Online Health Score Today! It has never been more important for businesses to connect, sell and communicate online. Are you ready?

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Create your own campaign or use one of the generating revenue templates to send an SMS or Email campaign, with guaranteed ROI.

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If anyone has any reservations about the Phorest online store, we have just done £507 worth of retail from one Instagram post in 24hours! I can’t quite believe it myself.” GORDON CRUICKSHANK, HAIR AND BODY MECHANICS

Find out by taking a look at your Online Health Score here! www.phorest.com/gb/online-health-score


Editor’s letter

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JOIN US!

You’ve got this! And we’re here YES, IT MIGHT seem that we are currently living through the to support you every step of the darkest timeline, but it stirs my soul to see how circumstances way. This month we’re sharing have galvanised so many proactively to fight for the future of the love more than ever (and this fabulous industry... and gain ground. First up: a new sectornot just on Valentine’s Day!), specific team for hair and beauty – Personal Care – has been created with the Salon Smart HUB, within government, thanks to pressure from trades bodies including launching in February. A the NHBF and the British Beauty Council (see page 16 for more). dedicated business support But we’re not waiting around for the team to act; the Save Our Salons network for salon and campaign is calling for salon owners to unite in lobbying local MPs to call self-employed hair pros, it’s for a cut in VAT to five per cent, which in real terms could put an extra £12 per free to access and updated £100 into the tills of VAT-liable salons, a huge difference when it comes to paying monthly with fresh content off Covid-19 related debts. This all comes at a vital time, as our extensive survey to inform and inspire. See on growth in the industry illustrates, from page 34. Covid-19 has presented us page 42 for details. Now, with a reboot option: to digitise operations, improve customer service and to 2020 might not have gone quite get a better grip on our individual businesses. We’ll most likely never get as we’d planned, but we’ve still this opportunity again. So I urge you to be proactive, to petition your got our magnificent Most Wanted MP, and to assess what your salon or freelance business must do to and The It List victors to crown safeguard its future. on 29 March – until then we’re showcasing the impressive young talent fighting for those coveted Amanda Nottage It List trophies over on pages Editor 46 to 49. Prepare to be wowed! creativeheadmag.com/events

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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@creativeheadmag

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February

WHAT’S INSIDE 54

62

ON THE COVER

Hair by Insaf Yilmaz for Aveda. Photography by Peter Phung. Art direction by Antoinette Beenders, Aveda senior vice-president of global professional artistry.

THE SECRETS OF EXTENSIONS

WITH DISTINCTION

The Slate Education team explores hair as an individual’s projection of style and belief

We reveal the eight key pieces of insider information that make extensions true business boosters

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RISING STAR

BIG IDEA

Arif Arikan from Alice and the Hair in Derby looks to the future

Adee Phelan teams up with Rankin to shine a light on NHS lockdown heroes

EDITOR

DIGITAL DESIGNER

DEPUTY EDITOR

ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT

AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

ART

EVA VESTMANN

KELSEY DRING

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

GRAEME WHITE

ALISON ROWLEY

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

ADAM WOOD

LAURA TUCKER

creativeheadmag.com

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CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ASSISTANT BELLA PETERS

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER JENNY BROOKS

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

creativeheadmagofficial

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, PO Box 289, Hexham, NE46 9HJ 01434 610416 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

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The edit R INDUSTRY THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOU

GOVERNMENT CREATES DEDICATED BEAUTY TEAM

THE DEPARTMENT FOR Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (BEIS) has unveiled a team dedicated to the Personal Care sector that includes the hair and beauty industries, giving hope for more support in the future. After months of intensive lobbying and campaigning by groups including the British Beauty Council and NHBF, this new structure will put the hair and beauty sector on an equal footing with the other sectors that BEIS covers, such as Professional and Business Services. This move is intended to ensure a more sustainable future for the sector, particularly with regards to government support. Hairdressing was previously overseen by the wider-ranging Safer Working Team as a close contact service, which will continue to have input on re-opening protocols. Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive, said: “We are delighted the sector has the recognition it deserves. Our work now continues to secure urgent support for hair and beauty.”

HONOURS FOR RRI FOUNDERS

LINDA AND ALAN STEWART of Rainbow Room International (RRI) salons have each been awarded an OBE for Services to Hairdressing in the New Year’s Honours List. The husband-and-wife team has built up the largest salon group in Scotland, along with a renowned training academy and product company, and have recently celebrated the 40th anniversary of the business.

Call on your MP to #saveoursalons A NEW CAMPAIGN called Save Our Salons is urging all UK salon owners to unite and lobby their local MPs to push for an immediate reduction in VAT from 20 per cent to 5 per cent – a tax cut that has already been given to the hospitality sector. Save Our Salons provides salon owners with a directory of MPs and a template letter to download that sets out the argument for the VAT cut, which can be customised with individual salon details. Letters should then be emailed or posted to your local MP, and shared with @SaveOurSalonsUK using #SaveOurSalons. Hairdressing is one of the most heavily taxed industries on the high street, with about one-third of every £1 coming through the tills being paid in tax. It’s believed most salons trade at between 3 per cent and 5 per cent profit, or £3 to £5 for every £100. For every £100 of revenue, a reduction in VAT to 5 per cent would add roughly £12 to salon takings, a potential lifesaver for all VAT-paying salons. “I’m backing #SaveOur Salons because our industry desperately needs this tax break,” said The Chapel co-founder, Toby Dicker. “We deserve the same support the hospitality sector has already been given.” The push is the next stage of the #ChopTheVAT campaign launched in 2020 by Telegraph Group beauty editor, Sonia Haria, in collaboration with the British Beauty Council. Visit saveoursalons.co.uk #saveoursalons

The Let’s ‘Ave It range, created by men’s stylist Sam Wall, proved to be a smash release, selling out instantly when revealed last year. After Sam’s tragic death, his colleagues at Hidden Heights Creative Studio in Gateshead have committed to continuing the range, with profits donated to The Lions Barber Collective, of which Sam was an ambassador.

hiddenheightsstudio.com

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#CHedit MY month

AHEAD

What February has in store for... JANET MAITLAND 1958 – 2021

THE INDUSTRY TEAMS UP TO PROMOTE HAIR OPPORTUNITIES THE INDUSTRY IS joining forces with National Apprenticeship Week (8 to 14 February) and National Careers Week (1 to 6 March) to showcase the diverse opportunities the hairdressing industry has to offer. Part of a wider campaign to shift public opinion surrounding a career in hairdressing by showcasing the variety of experiences available in the profession, community interest company THE INDUSTRY is calling on hair professionals and salons for support during these pivotal careers events. Whether it’s barbering or session work, creating wigs for the Royal Opera House or satisfying clients in the salon, raising awareness among young people, parents and educators in order to bolster interest in pursuing a hairdressing career is crucial to ensure future talent joins our sector. Visit the-industry.co.uk, follow @theindustrysquad on Instagram and sign up to the Creative HEAD newsletter at creativeheadmag.com/ newsletter, where we’ll be sharing how you can get involved

Janet Maitland, managing director and owner of Janet Maitland Hair Excellence salon group, has sadly passed away at the age of 63. A formidable force in the hairdressing industry, she opened her first salon in 1979, which became a thriving three-salon group across Durham. She was a talented hairdresser and committed to her craft, but considered nurturing and helping develop young team members her true vocation. She was a tireless supporter of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Shaping Futures initiative, of which she was UK ambassador for eight years. In that time she taught hairdressing skills to disadvantaged young people in India, Jordan and the Philippines.

£124 million

the amount of income UK hair and beauty businesses are estimated to be losing every week under lockdown and Tier 4 guidelines, according to the NHBF Key Industry Statistics 2020 report.

Xpert Professional expands into UK Irish distributor Xpert Professional is expanding into the UK market. Having partnered with ALFAPARF Milano since 1997, it will now take over the Italian hair brand’s existing operation in the UK, with additional plans to expand. David Donnellan, managing director of Xpert Professional, said: “We’re enthusiastic and confident about bringing over to the UK the levels of commitment and technical expertise that ALFAPARF Milano and Xpert Professional co-developed in Ireland.”

CREATIVE HEAD

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JENNIFER LINTON LINTON & MAC

We’re preparing with loads of team building and training. We host weekly ‘Sharing is Caring’ Zoom chats for us all to speak openly on parts of the job we worry about or we are not sure how to handle – exchanging colour problems and solutions, hair cutting phobias, techniques and patterns, and anything else that comes up.

NATALIE HAMILTON

CHAPTER ONE HAIR SPA

We’re determined to stay positive and keep busy. We’ve teamed up with a range of local businesses to create ‘Behind the Scenes’ social media videos in which we share helpful hints, tips, and tricks of the trade. We want to keep the community connected, uplifted, and focused on getting through tough times.

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Paul Falltrick is a new artistic ambassador for Revlon Professional, while Matt Horder has been named as the commercial director for UK and Ireland. Remi Cachet has announced its latest batch of Super Stylists: Alex Ferris, Georgia Tillmon, Lora Stanhope, Louise Baldwin, Sarah Lamite and Shannon Donald.

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Looking for a sustainable product line? ACT NOW! from Indola is vegan, has freefrom formulas with natural ingredients and features up to 97 per cent recycled packaging

Ensure your retail brushes are ‘best in breed’ with this dog-obsessed limited-edition Power Paddle brush collection from Denman – choose from a pug, French bulldog, dachshund, Labrador or cocker spaniel.

RRP £17.50 EACH SALES@DENMANBRUSH.COM denmanbrush.com

RRP FROM £6.78 01442 278 000 indola.co.uk

Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team

Want an oil to deliver instant shine, tamed frizz and cut blow-dry time? All hail Redken’s new Oil for All, invisible and lightweight.

RRP £21.50 0800 030 4034

This new collection of 10 essential styling products from ghd boasts the advanced ghd heat protection system, which creates a lightweight and invisible thermal shield between hair and heat. It cleverly coats each strand of hair evenly with a lightweight, invisible shield, forming a protective barrier. This helps retain moisture, enhance that gorgeous gloss, and improves the smoothness of the hair surface overall for healthier-looking hair. RRP FROM £14 01924 423 400 ghdhair.com

New from the ALTERNA Caviar Family is the Anti-Aging Clinical Densifying collection, a powerful sensitive scalp solver that targets thinning hair with a shampoo, foam conditioner and scalp treatment that feature ingredients such as amla Indian gooseberry.

RRP FROM £31.95 AVAILABLE AT ALAN HOWARD AND SALON PROMOTIONS alternahaircare.eu

New from vegan favourite Monat, Studio One Glossy Shine Mist has a fast-drying formula that enhances shine, softness and smoothness.

RRP £37 monatglobal.com

lorealpartnershop.com

INNOluxe’s #SAVED Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask are the British bondbuilder brand’s first range of homecare products designed for all hair colours.

RRP FROM £21 0330 088 2226 innoluxe.com

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Love a bit of process porn? Make sure your work essentials are utterly Instagrammable with these hair tools and accessories from wholesaler Simply Hair. There are even neon signs for your salon wall!

FROM £2.25 020 8191 8555

Shop, restock and manage your orders, whenever you want, wherever you want, with the new-look Schwarzkopf Professional eShop – open now! shop.schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk

simplyhair.co.uk

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#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS New Yubi ¯ Blonde from Shu Uemura Art of Hair is the brand’s first range for blonde hair to illuminate, hydrate and tone tresses. These professional formulas are infused with consciously-sourced Japanese white peony and an exclusive cool pigment crafted by a leading ink manufacturer in Japan to ensure the purple in the bottles and pots is perfectly cooling. The line-up hydrates, protects hair from oxidation, instantly neutralises brassiness and boosts colour luminosity for bright, glowing blonde hair. The range also has a woody, floral fragrance with sparkling ginger, fresh tea, osmanthus, jasmine and white musk. Perfectly purple, perfectly packaged and perfectly perfumed – they truly are works of art.

RRP FROM £29.95 0800 085 4958 lorealpartnershop.com

IT’S ALL ABOUT... BLONDE CARE Redken has unveiled an ‘invisible bandage’ for blonde hair with its Extreme Bleach Recovery collection, including the first pro at-home lamellar treatment and a leave-in cica cream, alongside a shampoo.

RRP FROM £18 0800 030 4034 lorealpartnershop.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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The Kérastase Blond Absolu additions also feature skincare ingredient cica. There’s a hybrid shampoo-in cream, a concentrated oil to strengthen, hydrating masque, and an overnight serum. And there’s a Fusio-Dose backwash toner too.

RRP FROM £23.90 0800 085 4958 lorealpartnershop.com

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WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I’ve wanted to be a hairdresser ever since I was little. I loved being creative as a kid and used to practise on my nan when I was young. She loved it! Hairdressing allows me to keep in touch with my creative flare and honestly, I love all aspects of it. WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? Winning awards for competitions, working with my amazing team at Alice and The Hair, and bagging a slot on The Fellowship Project X 2021 Team!

ARIF ARIKAN AGE: 21

SALON: ALICE AND THE HAIR, DERBY WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I would love to be an established stylist working with my salon squad, presenting at shows and educating.

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WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? Definitely doing stage work on big platforms and presenting alongside industry greats! That would be a dream come true…

CREATIVE HEAD

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

NO LIMITS LOOKING FOR COLOUR ARTISTRY WITHOUT BOUNDARIES? EXPERIENCE INFINITI FROM ASP AND AMAZE YOURSELF AND YOUR CLIENTS WITH WHAT YOU CAN CREATE

YOU NEED TO BE confident that the colour tools you use will deliver your vision every time, without compromise. The revamped ASP INFINITI is something you can be sure of. An evolution in hair colour, the INFINITI range is a line of permanent hair colours, toners, additives and highlighters that uses cutting-edge technology and innovative formulations. This is ASP’s most advanced and superior colour to date – it’s ready to give you the power to create everything from beautiful balayage to the brilliantly bold. There’s an enhanced colour palette of 139 stunning shades, and now INFINITI includes a superior New Generation Technology (GPSTECnology) to deliver ultimate colour performance. Greater colour intensity, unbeatable coverage, unrivalled condition and shine, longer-lasting results – that’s what you can rely on when you choose INFINITI to create your art. You can also rest assured that ASP INFINITI formulations consider the bigger picture, too. They are sulphate-free, vegan-friendly and contain more than 92 per cent naturallyderived ingredients.

AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

It’s called INFINITI for a reason… the collection creates the most vibrant reds, brightest blondes and beautiful natural tones in its Regular and High Lift Series, as well as gorgeous greys in the Gothic Series and intense red highlights in the b:RED series.

With the Metallic Toners, you see multi-dimensional tones that sparkle, while the Intensives Series include seven pure pigments for bespoke colour creation. And INFINITI is always evolving; with new technology and improved formulas, you’ll also find b:BROWN and .7 in its portfolio, as well as new toners. For soft brown results on natural and coloured hair, without the need to pre-lighten, b:BROWN is perfection. For moments where you need to perfect a tone, you’ll love the three new shades in the .7 collection to neutralise unwanted orange hues when lightening. There are more INFINITI Toners too, as T22 and T135 join the collection, designed to create beautiful cool or warm tones on pre-lightened hair.

WE’VE GOT THE TECHNOLOGY

In the ASP lab, a crack team of chemists has developed a breakthrough formula that pushes the boundaries of both colour performance and kindness to the hair. That’s the unique, innovative GPSTECnology, which precisely directs colour to the best location in the hair’s cortex, giving INFINITI incredible coverage. A British-born brand with a global community of creatives, ASP is always evolving to ensure it is the superior offering for professionals who demand the very best. It’s the ultimate choice for colour pioneers – unleash your imagination and make your art a reality with INFINITI from ASP.

WHAT WILL YOU CREATE? DISCOVER MORE ABOUT INFINITI FROM ASP, CALL 01794 527111 OR VISIT ASPHAIR.COM #COLOURINGTHEWORLD

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#CHedit

Inside story HEIR SALON LYTHAM

It’s a clever play on words at this Lancashire salon, founded by twin sisters Natasha and Natalie Langthorne. “We are inspired by family and wanted to translate this into our brand,” explains Natasha. “Through HEIR Salon and Education we’re passing on our knowledge and skills with in-salon services and in-salon training.” A home-from-home salon experience was the goal, and also being an education company, the space needed to be adaptable. The colour scheme of teal, peacock and nude with gold accents and leafy greens is inspired by their grandparents’ house, and there’s a vintage luxe feel throughout. Some of the furniture is upgraded and re-purposed second-hand pieces to not only keep costs down but also to create something more bespoke. The sections are purpose built by Natalie’s husband, a welder who followed plans drawn up by the twins. And on the walls you’ll see the work of local artist Kozostore, regularly updated and all for sale.

HOT BUY

now open

YOU’RE MY ROLLER BALL

With its iconic rotating infrared ring, Roller Ball F from Takara Belmont transforms colour results by accelerating processing time while improving colour penetration, vibrancy, intensity and durability. It’s a classic for a reason…

PRICE £2,055.00 or available to lease purchase from £10.39 a week 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

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RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL GEORGE SQUARE, EDINBURGH

It’s a stunning makeover for the salon, with a statement dried flower display and an impressive colour bar that makes an impact.

CREATIVE HEAD

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VIRTUAL TRAINING VIRTUAL HAIR EXTENSION EDUCATION IS NO LONGER A FUTURISTIC FANTASY, IT’S HERE TODAY! Now is the time to look at new services to introduce to your business to boost revenue streams the moment your doors re-open. Offering Great Lengths is a proven winner and certification training is available to complete NOW. Flexible, efficient and all within the comfort of your own home or salon. No waiting lists, no overnight stays away and no extra travel expenses needed, there is nothing stopping you! Get started straight away and become a certified Great Lengths stylist. Build your skills with our expert education team. Work through a series of modules together covering all theory and practical elements. Pass feeling 100% confident and ready for a new world of extensions. Scan the QR code below to discover how you can become a Great Lengths certified stylist and transform your business this year.

WWW.GREATLENGTHS.COM/UK


THE BUSINESS EDIT

CAN SALONS STILL AFFORD TO TAKE ON APPRENTICES POST-COVID? FEBRUARY PLAYS HOST to National Apprenticeship Week in England, but with many salons facing post-Covid loan repayments and other bills, there’s a real worry that 2021 will see low numbers of hair and barbering apprentices being taken on. So how can salons make it work financially? In England, as of time of press, there’s an incentive payment for employers who hire an apprentice before 31 March, and you can apply for the payment until 30 April. The payment is on top of the £1,000 employers already receive for hiring an apprentice aged 16 to 18, or under 25 with an education, health and care plan or who has been in the care of their local authority. For apprentices aged 16 to 24, employers will receive £2,000, while for those aged 25 and over, its £1,500. Sassoon has developed a one-year internship training programme for 18 year olds with some hairdressing experience. “This is cost-effective recruitment as you are entitled to the £1,000 government grant per

trainee,” explains Sassoon Global’s Debbie Webster. And to ensure all current assistants catch up on their training, there’s Sassoon Connect Plus, a digital programme for salon owners looking to link with their apprentices digitally, either in salon or remotely. KH Hair’s Darren Messias admits that some of the group’s salons may choose to reduce the amount of apprentices they would normally recruit due the financial impact of lockdown. “However, the financial incentives offered by government will certainly ease concerns,” he adds. Staying positive is key, believes Mel and Tony Mann from Monkey Hair in Maidstone. “Working closely with your training provider – we work with VTCT – and utilising remote learning is vital. In-house training will change considerably while the whole salon adjusts to a new way of working. Financial incentives provided by the government are helpful but there should be more long-term support for salons taking on apprentices.”

DAN MEWIES

MEWIES & CO

It’s essential for our business to introduce new apprentices every 18 months in order to move forward. Yes, this can be seen as an expense, but we need to look at the bigger picture and make use of government incentives. In turn this will also encourage current apprentices and give them a sense of growth within the business. We have a really strong ethos, and to train someone who has worked somewhere without the same values can be difficult. New apprentices will grow in your environment and really focus on what you have taught them. In return for a two-year investment of time, you have a stylist with all of your salon values – crucial to the salon’s growth. There are government incentives to help businesses employ apprentices so take advantage.

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LIFE LESSONS

SIOBHAN JONES ROSE & WILD

Be true to your brand. Take the time to really evaluate who you are and what it is that you offer, and streamline those key elements. Always take the time to reassess what you are putting out there. I believe in consumer-focused colour and aim to project this in all I do. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris believes in the same aesthetic, which is why working as an international ambassador for the brand works perfectly for me. Be true to the artist you are.

Be true to your values. Being guided by your values brings more satisfaction than simply following the tide. Figure out what your true values are and design your career around that.

Be true to your emotions. Stressful life events can and will happen. They bring change to which we have to adapt and adjust. When dealing with a problem, face it head on. Breathe through it, accept the emotion and try to tackle it in a composed and logical way. Who knows, this new diversion could lead you on an even more exciting pathway.

CREATIVE HEAD

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Shape the future

*Find out more about the incentive programme by visiting gov.uk

AS NATIONAL APPRENTICESHIP WEEK CELEBRATES VOCATIONAL SKILLS, VTCT IS SHINING A LIGHT ON THE ADVANTAGES OF OPENING YOUR DOORS TO NEW APPRENTICES NOW AN INVESTMENT IN knowledge pays the best dividend, and with 8 February signalling the 14th annual National Apprenticeship Week in England, now is the perfect time to consider making that investment. This year’s theme, ‘Build the Future,’ gives us the chance to reflect on the amazing work being done by apprentices, employers and training providers across the country, despite enormous challenges. Employers train, retain and achieve with apprentices all while helping them develop skills and knowledge required for rewarding careers; employers benefit as they build and shape a workforce with future-ready skills. The old Apprenticeship Frameworks have now been replaced with the new Professional Standards. There’s never been a better time to take on an apprentice as the government is currently offering a financial incentive to employers in England. An incentive payment will be made to employers who hire an apprentice before 31 March, so there’s still time to take advantage of this.* As an awarding body, VTCT works with employers, training providers and apprentices to provide high-quality, robust apprenticeships in the Hair and Beauty sector. A VTCT apprenticeship can bring new energy, creativity and ideas to your business, develop talent and offer an individual a great opportunity. Data compiled from the Centre for Economic Research, National Apprenticeship Service and gov.uk showed that employers throughout the UK continue to choose to recruit apprentices. Here are a few reasons why…

Increase production and revenue

On average, engaged and productive apprentices boost productivity to businesses by £214 a week, and 78 per cent of employers agreed that apprentices help to make their workplace more productive.

Close the skills gap

A skills gap is currently affecting many companies with hard-tofill vacancies. However, 83 per cent of employers who employ apprentices rely on their apprenticeship programme to provide the skilled workers they need for their company’s future. Apprentices can be full-time or part-time, allowing for recruitment based on the needs of the business so employers can recruit and train an apprentice with the specific skills required. Many apprentices stay on as permanent staff, meaning it’s a crucial recruiting channel for salons.

Grow your business

According to the National Apprenticeships Service, 80 per cent of companies who invest in apprentices have reported a significant increase in employee retention. The rewards are clear to all involved— one educator described the pleasure of going into a salon and “seeing apprentices still there years later as full-time staff”, while an employer described the joy they find in “helping apprentices discover their specialities”. National Apprenticeship Week may only last a short time, but VTCT is championing apprenticeships all year round. Are you ready to make an investment in the future of your business?

DISCOVER HOW APPRENTICESHIPS CAN REVITALISE YOUR BUSINESS. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT APPRENTICESHIPS, VISIT VTCT.ORG.UK/APPRENTICESHIPS 25

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#BusinessEdit

APPRENTICES TO BE CELEBRATED NATIONWIDE NATIONAL APPRENTICESHIP WEEK will celebrate the amazing work being done by employers and apprentices on 8 to 14 February in England, 1 to 5 March in Scotland. ‘Building the Future’ is the theme of the 14th National Apprenticeship Week in England, highlighting how apprenticeships can help individuals to develop the skills and knowledge required for a rewarding career, and employers to build a workforce with future-ready skills. In Scotland, the theme is ‘Business Backing Talent’, to focus on the benefits of employers backing talent through apprenticeships. NHBF director Tina BeaumontGoddard, says: “Taking on an apprentice is your chance to offer someone a great opportunity and pass on your skills and experience to a new generation.” Search #NAW2021 and #ScotAppWeek21

Traineeships: could they work for you? TRAINEESHIPS HAVE BECOME a popular training method during the pandemic, says NHBF director of quality & standards, Caroline Larissey. They are flexible, sector-focused, funded by government and can last from six weeks to a year. She adds: “You can design a programme that suits both your business and your trainee and they can help you develop a loyal and talented workforce. They can also provide a route into apprenticeships.” NHBF members can download a fact sheet at nhbf.co.uk/traineeships. For the latest information about traineeships, visit nhbf.co.uk/traineeships-England

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WAGE CHANGES: BE READY

FOR THE FIRST time the National Living Wage (NLW) will be paid to 23 and 24 year olds from this April, to coincide with increases to both the NLW and the National Minimum Wage (NMW). The NLW will increase from £8.72 to £8.91, while apprenticeship pay will also go up from £4.15 to £4.30. But don’t be caught out: an apprentice over the age of 19 who is in the second year of their apprenticeship must be paid the appropriate NMW or NLW. Hair and beauty businesses facing financial pressures should therefore ensure they are getting all the support they are entitled to from government. Details vary across the four nations, but schemes such as furlough and selfemployment grants are UK-wide, as is the ban on eviction for non-payment of rent on commercial premises until 31 March 2021. In addition, each nation is offering its own grants and funding schemes. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/financial-support Rate from April 2020

Rate from April 2021

National Living Wage

£8.72

£8.91

+2.2%

NMW: 21 to 22-year-old rate

£8.20

£8.36

+2.0%

NMW: 18 to 20-year-old rate

£6.45

£6.56

+1.7%

NMW: 16 to 17-year-old rate

£4.55

£4.62

+1.5%

Apprentice rate

£4.15

£4.30

+3.6%

NHBF stats reveal pre-Covid growth THE NHBF’S ANNUAL industry statistics have revealed a picture of robust growth in the hair and beauty industry before the pandemic struck. Key points for 2020 included: • The latest available figures (2018) showed the hair and beauty industry generated more than £8 billion in turnover for the UK economy. • Barbers, beauty salons and nail salons were the top three retail categories that saw the highest growth. Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive, says: “We will not understand the full impact of Covid until our 2021 stats are compiled much later this year. However, we know from more targeted surveys of our members that the majority are struggling. We continue to urge the government to provide further financial support to ensure the hair and beauty sector can return to where it was at the start of 2020.” Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/stats2020

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20/01/2021 12:27


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The first 20 new Creative HEAD Club members will receive a Bhave Rescue Kit, worth £32. Each Rescue Kit includes a Rescue Shot, 100ml Rescue Shampoo, 100ml Rescue Conditioner and an instruction guide. Bhave is an Australian brand with a commitment to ethical hair health and its Rescue Treatment is a unique in-salon repair therapy. The Rescue Range repairs, protects and renews. Already a Creative HEAD Club member? Then we’ve got something for you too! One lucky member will win a Salon Rescue Pack including products and accessories, worth £195!**

*For the first 20 new members to sign up between 1 February and 28 February 2021. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered. **includes: 500ml rescue treatment, 1,000ml rescue shampoo, 1,000ml rescue conditioner, hair turban, rescue instructions, 20 rescue client leaflets, five rescue mirror stickers. For more information, visit bhavehair.uk. ***Selected events only, for more details contact events@alfol.co.uk

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20/01/2021 12:29


#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel

33% OF SALONS USE

A MARKETING AGENCY OR EXTERNAL CONSULTANT

25%

Every single salon we asked reported that they use Facebook, Instagram and word of mouth to promote their business, 83% used their salon windows, 58% used local press, 25% used deal websites and 25% used Twitter.

TOP THREE METHODS OF PROMOTION SALONS FIND MOST EFFECTIVE:

1. FACEBOOK

OF SALONS ASKED EMPLOY SOMEONE IN HOUSE TO DO MARKETING/PR

2. INSTAGRAM

HAVE A MARKETING BUDGET OF ANY KIND

3. WORD OF MOUTH

50% OF SALONS DO NOT

THE MISSION – STAYING IN TOUCH WITH CLIENTS

3% 8 lon owners use

of sa marketing materials from manufacturers, all of whom find them to be effective

92%

of salons follow up with clients after an appointment – 42 per cent of salons follow up appointments with SMS, 58 per cent email and/or phone call

“We have been working on our branding and increasing our following on Instagram over the past year – Instagram has helped us to attract many more new clients to the salon from further afield” VICTORIA STEVENS, TOPS SALON, MELKSHAM, WILTSHIRE

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THE POWER OF RETAIL MARKETING THROUGHOUT LOCKDOWN MANY OF US were looking forward to saying goodbye to 2020 with the hopes of starting again in the New Year, and while Boris may have changed that ever so slightly, there is one thing you can do this lockdown to futureproof your business for 2021.

Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

ONCE EACH ISSUE of Creative HEAD lands with our audience, we speak to our Reader Panel to ask them how their business is going, in partnership with Phorest Salon Software. We combine the results from our Reader Panel with research compiled by Phorest, using its client base of salons from across the UK, to gauge what’s going on in the industry and discuss how to solve common problems and challenges. This month, we’re talking about how salons promote themselves and what they find most effective.

ENTER, SMS MARKETING It’s not a new concept by any means, but it’s a marketing tool that doesn’t get enough recognition, especially since it’s the most direct form of marketing you can think of. In fact, SMS marketing has a 99 per cent open rate versus a mere 20 per cent open rate of an email campaign. Therefore, if there’s one thing you can and should do this lockdown, it’s send an SMS marketing campaign, even if it’s just one. Why? Because Phorest clients have proven that the return on investment is what will keep them going this lockdown. One client sent just one SMS to 215 of their customers and made £5,500 in sales from it. Based on the basic SMS rate, that is a whopping 371 per cent return on investment. Mary-Louise O’Connor, business adviser at Phorest, says to ensure SMS campaigns have the highest success rate, she gives her clients the following advice: l Always think personalisation. Include your client’s first name – even if it’s automated it provides a friendly, human touch. l Make it timely: catch your clients at a time you know they’ll be engaged with their phone – a timeframe inspires a call to action. l Generate a sense of urgency – any offers should have a time limit, or simple phrases like ‘buy now’ can really work well. l Think monetary value over percentages: the value added must be clear for your clients to make them want to spend. l Avoid giving money off your products to protect your bottom line. Instead, add value wherever you can. Abigail Walsh is the regional marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software UK & Ireland. Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware CREATIVE HEAD

20/01/2021 12:30


MONEY TALKS

BROUGHT, THE NHBF REMINDS US HAS 19 IDCOV S NGE CHA THE H WIT ES AS THE INDUSTRY GRAPPL ANCIAL UPDATES IN THE PIPELINE NOT TO FORGET ABOUT ADDITIONAL FIN STAYING CLUED IN to the latest changes is crucial to survival in the current environment. The NHBF is in the thick of it, lobbying government and updating its members and followers on social media with the latest news as things unfold. The financial effects of the pandemic will continue throughout 2021, with many salons and barber shops struggling to recover and rebuild their businesses, says NHBF financial director Kishon Mather. As we settle into 2021, we asked Kishon what salons and barbers should be focusing on…

STAY LEGAL: NLW AND NMW RISES

The National Living Wage (NLW) will increase to £8.91 from £8.72, and the National Minimum Wage (NMW) will also increase across the various age groups in 2021. Apprenticeship pay will go up from £4.15 to £4.30. “Many salons and barber shops will see the planned increases to the NLW and NMW as a further blow,” says Kishon. “Especially as the NLW will, from April 2021, have to be paid to those aged 23 and 24. We agree employees need to be paid a fair wage, but without any other financial support for our sector this is another financial obstacle for businesses trying to recover.” NHBF members can download a free guide at nhbf.co.uk/finance-guide

REBUILDING IN 2021

“We know from our surveys that many salons and barber shops feel they will be unable to survive beyond the end of this financial year,” says Kishon. “We understand the huge challenges ahead, but there are steps that businesses can take that may just make the difference and help build up a healthy and thriving business again.”

FIVE-STEP BUSINESS PLAN

The NHBF has created a plan to help businesses stay on track: • Access the government financial help you are entitled to. Find out what you’re eligible for at nhbf.co.uk/financial-support • Negotiate with your landlord. Take advice from your solicitor or property adviser and try to get a rent-free period or rent reduction. NHBF members can download a guide on how to negotiate at nhbf.co.uk/landlord • Discuss the best finance solutions for your business with your bank and accountant. Learn more at nhbf.co.uk/cashflow • Make the most of no-cost and low-cost marketing. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/back-to-business-marketing • Get your prices right and reduce no-shows and late cancellations. Both of these factors are vital to ensure healthy profits. See more at nhbf.co.uk/back-to-business-work-smarter

NHBF MEMBERS BENEFIT FROM:

• Discounted insurance and health & safety kits • A free health & safety helpline • A free 15-minute business coaching phone call from an industry expert every year • Special fixed-rate business coaching • A wide range of in-depth business guides and money-saving NHBF Rewards Find out more about NHBF member benefits at nhbf.co.uk/benefits

JOIN THE NHBF BEFORE THE END OF FEBRUARY 2021 AND QUOTE CHF25 TO GET £25 OFF YOUR MEMBERSHIP FEE

Explore the various benefits and support from the NHBF, including legal, employment, management and financial advice. Visit nhbf.co.uk/join CREATIVE HEAD

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20/01/2021 12:33


COLOUR VISION TAKE A STEP BACK AND SEE THE BIGGER PICTURE. FREE YOUR MIND FOR FRESH OPPORTUNITIES WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR, AND WHAT THAT COULD MEAN FOR YOUR CLIENTS IN ASSOCIATION WITH

TEST YOURSELF

The Wella Professionals Master Colour Programme has changed the lives of thousands of colourists globally. It’s the ultimate accolade in hair colour training and will help to grow your confidence, business and professional skills. Embark on 15 days of training spread over a six-to-twelve-month period, where you’ll learn the highest level of colour applications and techniques from artists from Russell Eaton, HOB Academy, Sassoon Academy, D&J Ambrose and Medusa. Programmes run throughout the year and are available at all Wella Studios; just call your nearest studio for more on what’s involved and how to book, or visit wella.com/educationbook. Looking to push yourself? Wella’s iconic TrendVision Award competition is BACK. Entries open on 8 March and, after the success of last year’s competition, entries will be hosted entirely on Instagram. We’re also excited to see that the students’ Xposure competition is joining the ranks of TVA with two new categories! There’s so much to get hyped about – stay tuned and follow @wellahairuki or head to wella.co.uk/trendvision for the latest updates.

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

AND HOW TO OVERCOME IT. FOR TRENDVISION EVERY MONTH WE SPEAK TO A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT ABOUT A KEY ISSUE , IT’S CLIENTS’ LACK OF PATIENCE… AWARD GOLD WINNER SOPHIEROSE GOLDSWORTHY AT GOLDSWORTHY’S (@GOLDSWORTHYSHAIR) “It’s a mixture of clients wanting to come into the salon less and seeing colour results on Instagram that has made some clients impatient. You ask them what they want and it’s a big list, and you’re looking at their hair thinking: ‘Okay, we’re not gonna get that straight away.’ Then, when they ask for a quote, they’re shocked. Over and over. People still don’t appreciate how difficult it can sometimes be to get these Instagram looks, these big colour changes. In one sitting? While keeping the hair quality? “After talking it through with the team and trying to work out a solution, we created a very thorough consultation sheet, compulsory for any new clients or clients that want a new colour. They have to read through all of it and sign that they’ve read it and accept the terms. It lays out everything in principle – that while we are trying to achieve your colour goal, it may not be achievable in one sitting. They also have to agree that they have to use our products, otherwise it would just void our work. We explain it to them in ways that they understand – that you wouldn’t buy a Ferrari and then wash it with Fairy Liquid or buy a cashmere sweater and then just throw it in the washing machine. “The main issue that stylists face is promising the world too early; anything after that is just going to be a disappointment. We’re clear from the start that we do everything in our power to achieve that desired look while maintaining condition.” 30

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CREATIVE HEAD

20/01/2021 12:32


SHELFIE TIME Grey Blending is a huge trend right now. There’s so much opportunity to work with our clients and offer them services that blend their grey hair, rather than just going for a block colour. One of the products I consistently reach for is Wella Professionals Color Touch. It’s the best of both worlds, combining the shine and vibrancy of a permanent colour with the low commitment of a demi-permanent. With up to 50 per cent white coverage (70 per cent for Color Touch Plus) and virtually invisible root regrowth it’s perfect for a client’s grey blending journey.”

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

#ColourVision

ROBERT EATON, WELLA PROFESSIONALS CREATIVE TECHNICAL DIRECTOR UK AND IRELAND, @ROBERTJEATON

WHY I’M WELLA I love the family feeling that Wella Professionals creates – it’s unique. It has a fantastic support network and you are always made to feel valued. The people I deal with at Wella have always had a great understanding of our business needs and the ever-changing demands of our clients. “No matter where you are in your career there is something available with Wella Education. Its educators and guest artists embrace teamwork to enable the best possible outcome for students, and the education is incredibly high quality. This high level of teaching has created opportunities for our own team, who are regularly involved in presenting at the UK studios. The brand is always looking forward and we are sure that, during these challenging times, it will keep on striving to ensure that customers are well and truly looked after and prepared for the journey ahead.” ALAN BOYCE, TONI&GUY SALONS, DUBLIN @TONIANDGUYIRELAND

NO MATTER WHAT YOU’RE FACED WITH, WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS THE SUPPORT, EDUCATION AND PRODUCTS TO EQUIP YOU WITH CAREERMAKING CONFIDENCE. DISCOVER MORE ABOUT HOW WELLA PROFESSIONALS CAN SUPPORT YOU ON YOUR JOURNEY AT WELLA.CO.UK @wellahairuki #WellaColour #MakeChange CREATIVE HEAD

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Wella Professionals 31

21/01/2021 13:14


THE ART OF

Grey Blending Creative head layout DPS.indd 2

06/01/2021 10:02


With

ILLUMINA COLOR

for sheer colour results Stay up-to-date with the number one trend of colour blending.

in partnership with Robert EATON, Wella Professionals UK&I Colour Ambassador

FIND OUT MORE: Talk to your Account Manager/Education Team or visit education.wella.com uk.wellastore.com | @WellaHairUKI | #WellaHair

Creative head layout DPS.indd 3

06/01/2021 10:02


34 / The Report

34

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CREATIVE HEAD

21/01/2021 13:30


The Report / 35

THE REPORT

MAKING THE CUT

Up until the beginning of 2020, hairdressing was a robust and growing industry, with survival rates bucking the general decline of the British high street. There are now almost 45,000 hair and beauty salon businesses in the UK1 (a rise of more than 1,000 since 2019), and barber shops are among the top three retail categories that saw the biggest growth in the UK – above supermarkets, coffee shops, takeaways and pizzerias. But this is not an industry without its problems. Growing competition and a saturated market mean salons and barber shops are competing against each other both for clients and for experienced and qualified staff, with salons up and down the country reporting recruitment difficulties. Rising employment costs, rents and rates have meant that many salons now run with profit margins as low as 3 per cent. Meanwhile, fuelled by social media, which enables stylists easily to build and promote ‘brand me’, CREATIVE HEAD

034-041 Report_CHUK_Feb21_GW3.indd 2

hairdressing has seen a massive swing to selfemployment in recent years, along with an increasing number of salon owners using freelancers within their business. Those who continue directly to employ their own staff cite unfair competition, seeing the move as a means to reduce turnover below the VAT threshold without reducing profits or prices. Worryingly, demand for apprenticeships has dropped by 30 per cent since 2019;2 salon owners say they can’t afford to pay for apprentices, and self-employed hairdressers simply don’t take on and train new staff, the prospect looms of a massive skills shortage in the future. Creative HEAD surveyed 200 hairdressing businesses (100 salon owners and 100 self-employed hairdressers) to ask what ‘growth’ means to them, their ambitions for growing more, and what holds them back from realising those goals. What follows is a summary of our findings – the full report can be found at creativeheadmag.com/making-the-cut-2021

1. Office For National Statistics 2. FE data tables, gov.uk

A NEW INDUSTRY REPORT FROM CREATIVE HEAD REVEALS WHAT HAIRDRESSING BUSINESSES NEED TO GROW AND THRIVE BEYOND COVID-19

35

21/01/2021 13:30


THE REPORT

What does growth look like for hairdressing businesses? Government has traditionally measured enterprise growth either by revenue turnover or by directly employed headcount. Turnover was an important measure of growth for many hairdressing businesses, but most also stressed that increased profile, reputation and client numbers were more vital benchmarks. For the majority of hairdressing businesses, headcount was not a primary measure of growth – a reflection of the sector’s increasingly freelance-heavy workforce.

58%

The traditional concept of hairdressing as a 9 to 5 job in a local salon with a single employer no longer constitutes the way a substantial proportion of the workforce makes a living – 60 per cent of all hair professionals are now self-employed, keen to exert more control over their own time and destiny, and Covid-19 will grow that number still further.

VAT-registered salons in the UK account for 12,300 businesses, employing 94,686 staff and generating a total of £3.35 billion in turnover1

36

034-041 Report_CHUK_Feb21_GW3.indd 3

1. Office for National Statistics, 2. FE data tables, gov.uk

of the salon owners we surveyed have at least one selfemployed stylist in their business

Faced with rising employment costs, an increasing number of salon owners no longer directly employ their workers, instead engaging them as self-employed sub-contractors. However, disguised employment is a concern, and the fact that HMRC has not actively enforced the law in terms of stamping this out has led to a false sense of security for many, who believe they can evade and avoid their tax obligations. The knock-on effect of rising wage rates means that apprentices are now seen as too expensive to employ. Salons are more likely to look for experienced stylists who can bring in additional revenue, rather than take on an apprentice who won’t be able to generate income to cover the costs of employing them immediately. CREATIVE HEAD

21/01/2021 13:30


THE REPORT

APPRENTICESHIPS IN CRISIS

Case study

Hooker & Young

In England in 2020, apprenticeship frameworks were replaced with Standards (Trailblazer) developed by leading employers, including Andrew Collinge and Toni&Guy, combining the latest technologies and industry advancements with a new, independent end-point assessment to ensure the highest standards have been met.

NORTH EAST

Gary Hooker and Michael Young are co-owners of Hooker & Young, a group of four luxury hair salons the North East of England. Established in 1996, today the group employs 47 staff and generates a turnover of about £2million. Says Michael: “We are very much aware of the rise of the self-employed stylist and the impact it has had on the industry at large. We’ve thought for some time now that hairdressing is changing; it’s inevitable, really. However, we are working on a new model which may allow other creatives from outside Hooker & Young to use our space collaboratively. It’s something that interests us, and it may well become the way people want to work creatively – having that self-employed independence while still being associated with a quality brand. “We’ve had open forums with our entire team discussing the self-employed model and have only ever had a negative response – they really don’t see the plus sides to working that way. I guess it’s not for everyone, but if ‘rent-a-chair’ is all you’ve ever known then it’s just the normal way of working.”

Case study

Paint & Powder STAFFORD

Katie Mulcahy opened Paint & Powder in December 2019 and her team mixes full-time employed and self-employed staff. Having experienced both as a stylist, Katie wants to offer an environment that embraces both, although she ensures that her younger team members and assistants remain fully employed while they learn their craft. “Self-employment is not going away and so I am happy to embrace it in my salon,” she says. “However, mine is a very new business and so it’s more about finding the right individuals and working together to find which model best suits both sides. It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation anymore as things have changed, and we have to adapt and evolve with the industry.”  The freelancers Katie employs have to be fully committed to the ethos of Paint & Powder and all must undergo a trade test before she will rent them a chair. As she says: “Ultimately, it’s my salon, and I need to ensure that whoever is working here wants to be part of our team, has the level of skills and ability I expect, and so enhances our reputation.” CREATIVE HEAD

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Despite this – and the government’s offer of financial incentives to employers in England who take on an apprentice – only 7,000 people started hairdressing and barbering apprenticeships in England in 2019/20, a drop of 30 per cent compared with the previous year.2 The NHBF Hair and Beauty Apprenticeships Insight Report, undertaken in May 2020, highlighted the following concerns from salon owners: l The cost of keeping on apprentices if their age dictated a higher National Minimum Wage, compared with their competency and potential to contribute to salon income. l That apprentices would not be able to work due to government close contact service guidance and whether salons would have the time or capacity to complete the training and development of their apprentices. l The effect of Covid-19 restrictions on the training of apprentices, the longer timescales required to complete apprenticeships and how the change in age may affect the apprentice’s employment. This raises the possibility of a huge skills shortage for the industry over the next few years, as a generation of potential hairdressers will be missing.

RECOMMENDATIONS l The government should provide a clear definition of what counts as genuine selfemployment, to eliminate the risk of ‘disguised employment’. l The government should review the impact of National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage increases on the trend to self-employment in the hairdressing industry. l The government should review its apprenticeship incentives, which are insufficient and poorly constructed and disqualify precious school leavers who have already worked in the salon as Saturday staff, and work closely with hairdressing industry bodies on a sector skills recovery plan.

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THE REPORT

What are hairdressing businesses’ plans to grow? In our survey, 78 per cent of salon owners and 57 per cent of self-employed hairdressers reported that they aim to grow over the next three years. Some have the ambition rapidly to increase their turnover, but the majority aim to grow at a steady rate over a long period of time.

Hairdressing businesses measure growth by the number of clients they serve

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Finally, a reliance on inefficient legacy technology – an average 61 per cent of salons still use paper booking systems, for example1 – is holding the industry back in terms of capturing, measuring and analysing key business data, all of which are essential to stable and sustainable growth. 1. Treatwell, 2. Powered by Flossie

Both salon owners and selfemployed stylists are acutely aware of the number of clients they serve; 91 per cent in both groups said they used their clientele as a benchmark for measuring growth. According to the survey, self-employed stylists look after an average 95 clients each, charging £62 per appointment, compared with 1,542 clients and an average client bill of £77 in the salon. However, self-employed hairdressers see their clients more regularly – every six weeks or less – while salon clients tend to book appointments every six to 12 weeks.

However, it is clear that a lack of fundamental business skills, and awareness of how and where to acquire those skills, remains a stumbling block to growth – this is particularly acute among self-employed hairdressers, who often go from ‘hairdresser’ to ‘business owner’ overnight. Additional support and financial resources are also urgently required for the self-employed as their businesses are often misunderstood or even ignored by banks and building societies.

“For us, having consistent utilisation of all our team’s client columns is a great way to measure our business. We are always pushing for anything upwards of 80 per cent at all times” “My motivation to grow is my team. I want them to be proud of where they work. To enjoy their jobs and love coming to work”

CREATIVE HEAD

21/01/2021 13:31


THE REPORT

LEGACY TECHNOLOGY HOLDING SALONS BACK Failure to digitise booking processes is threatening the profitability of the UK salon industry, with research showing that £1.2 billion is being lost every year as clients fail to keep their pre-booked appointments.2 The data shows that nearly a third (30 per cent) of women in London admit to not showing up to a hair appointment, leaving salons to swallow the costs. According to Europe’s largest hair and beauty marketplace, Treatwell, just 3 per cent of hair and beauty appointments are booked online right now. That’s not through lack of consumer desire – it’s a reflection of the fact salons are resisting. “During the pandemic, government went close to mandating that walks-ins should be no more, recommending pre-booked appointments – much easier online – in the Covid-19 close contact guidelines,” says Treatwell’s Madeleine Raynel. “Other governments made it a requirement, while ours fell short. I think it’s for the industry itself to drive the change.”

Case study

Harriet Stokes SELF-EMPLOYED

Colourist and educator Harriet went freelance in 2020 and relies heavily on social media to build her business. “I have always loved sharing my work online. I joined social media right back in 2013, when I was a newly-qualified hairdresser, posting ‘before and after’ photos of my clients’ hair. I quickly realised that by doing so I was growing my clientele way faster than any other stylist in the salon as they weren’t using social media in that way. Fast forward to 2021 and social media is now a massive part of what I do. Ninety per cent of my clients have found me through Instagram. “In 2020 I made the decision to go freelance, in the middle of the first lockdown, knowing that I had social media to announce my plans and to create a buzz around it. Social media has been and will be my only way of finding work, whether that’s being paid to create content for brands or using it to promote my online education.”

CREATIVE HEAD

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Alongside quick and easy online booking experiences, the younger generation of consumers increasingly demand flexible payment options, including buy-now-pay-later services and Klarnastyle payments so they can spread the cost. Internal data from Powered by Flossie also found that customers are significantly more likely to attend appointments if they have paid in advance, as it creates a financial repercussion for missing their bookings.

RECOMMENDATIONS l To realise their growth ambitions, hairdressing businesses need improved access to training and education in fundamental business skills. Devolved authorities and support intermediaries, including LEPs and Growth Hubs, should be resourced to deliver advice, support and finance that is specifically tailored to the needs of hairdressing businesses. l Meanwhile, financial institutions should be encouraged to adapt their criteria to increase their support for self-employed workers. l Industry-led mentoring and networking should be incentivised across the UK to enable hairdressing businesses to offer mutual support and advice. This should be led from the bottom-up, catering to the most acute needs of hairdressing businesses in each area.

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THE REPORT

What challenges prevent hairdressing businesses from growing?

“ “I work on my own, so there is a limit to how many clients I can see in a day, and I’ve already increased my prices this year”

“Cut VAT! Or have no VAT threshold. It’s the threshold that kills a business. A sudden tax of 20 per cent and little can be claimed back. You can’t compete with single operator selfemployed stylists who don’t pay VAT”

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Hairdressing businesses share many of the challenges faced by the wider business community – lack of time, finance and funding, business support and skilled staff/ new talent came out on top. These challenges are felt particularly acutely due to the high volume of selfemployed workers and the micro-size of hairdressing businesses. According to salon owners, one of the key barriers to growth is the lack of quality and diversity of talent, both now and anticipated in the future. Although our industry offers huge employment opportunities to females and young people, there is a stigma around the profession, with teachers and parents believing it is not a ‘serious’ career choice. Salon owners also highlight the financial disadvantages for salons who employ their staff when competing with salons who don’t have employees. Salons who employ their staff face steep rises in employment-related costs, with both Conservative and Labour policies expected to raise the National Living Wage to the highest in the world. Salons with only self-employed people working in them avoid employment costs and employer National Insurance Contributions at 13.8 per cent, and many also avoid VAT.

CREATIVE HEAD

21/01/2021 13:31


THE REPORT

A TAXING ISSUE Using self-employed staff within their business has helped smaller salons to grow, but it’s changing the playing field for medium-sized salons with staff on PAYE that have to pay VAT on all treatments, if their turnover exceeds the £85k threshold. In many cases, these costs have to be passed on to the client, rendering the business uncompetitive in the face of self-employed stylists, who tend to operate below the VAT threshold: 84 per cent of the selfemployed stylists we talked to have a turnover of £30k or less. Many hairdressing businesses can operate on turnover below the VAT threshold, but there is evidence that it distorts business growth and activity.

Case study

Karen Coventry SELF-EMPLOYED

Karen Coventry has been hairdressing for 31 years and has been selfemployed for the past 20 years. “Even prior to Covid-19 my business was struggling: I was finding it difficult to pay my outgoings every month because I was scared to put my prices up. “Skills training is so important for this job, but I hadn’t done any for a long time because I couldn’t afford the course fees, and I also couldn’t afford to take the time off. Lockdown has actually been fantastic in this sense, and there’s been lots of free education online, mostly on Facebook. “I probably should budget for training, but I’m not great at the business side of things at all. I can’t even do a spreadsheet! That’s where I need more training, and in social media also, but it needs to be delivered in an affordable way – on a subscription, and in small bite sizes because I don’t have time. “A bigger problem is trying to obtain finance from banks and building societies. I have a 96 per cent Experian credit rating but I have been turned down for credit for a laptop, my husband and I can’t move our mortgage, and I’ve reached a point where I feel so sick about applying for credit that I no longer will. The self-employed are treated like the scum of the earth by banks and financial institutions. They are nice to you if you are putting money in, but as soon as you need any help it’s just NO!”

TO SEE THE FULL VERSION OF MAKING THE CUT, VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MAKING-THE-CUT-2021 CREATIVE HEAD

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In 2020 some of the UK’s leading hairdressers teamed up with the British Beauty Council to campaign for a cut in VAT to boost salons struggling due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Adam Reed, Luke Hersheson, John Vial, George Northwood, Nicola Clarke, Joshua Miller, Charlotte Mensah and Josh Wood were among the celebrity salon owners urging the UK government to #ChopTheVAT payable by hairdressing businesses from 20 per cent to 5 per cent – a financial stimulus already granted to the UK’s hospitality sector. The campaign received vocal support from the beauty director at The Telegraph Group, Sonia Haria, ensuring consumers were aware of what hairdressers were battling. Those behind the campaign say reducing the rate of VAT on hairdressing and barbering would provide welcome long-term relief for salon owners and employers, where wages are the highest cost of doing business and there is little scope for claiming VAT back on products.

RECOMMENDATIONS ● Hairdressing careers advice must be improved accurately to represent the reality of the excellent professional opportunities available. ● VAT reform is required, so that salons with employees can compete on a level playing field with those who don’t have employees. ● A fairer National Insurance system is required, so employers do not have to pay 13.8 per cent contributions while those with chair or room renters pay nothing.

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28/01/2021 18:36


HUB

During tough times we soon find out who our friends really are, right? Who to count on for help and encouragement – where to turn for advice and inspiration. Well, hardworking people, introducing the Salon Smart HUB – a new place to go to keep on top of business.

Powered by Creative HEAD in exclusive partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, there’ll be fresh content drops every month and on-demand access to videos, panel debates, podcasts, articles, reports and more – all featuring a host of experts sharing their knowledge and guidance. Think of the Salon Smart HUB as your year-long business support network – there when you need it. It’s FREE, and it’s only a click away…

creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/hub

+ NOW

SIGN UP

IT’S

QUICK SIMPLE

FREE

RECEIVE MONTHLY CONTENT ALERTS DIRECT TO YOUR INBOX

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29/01/2021 14:03


THE THE

BUSINESS BUSINESS SUPPORT NETWORK

+ HAIR

SUPPORT NETWORK FOR FOR

SALON SALON

SELF-EMPLOYED SELF-EMPLOYED

PROFESSIONALS PROFESSIONALS

LIVE

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20/01/2021 14:59


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20/01/2021 12:35


CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND HAIR Adee Phelan and Errol Douglas MBE, assisted by Victoria Baloi and Tia Kingh. MAKE-UP Lan Nguyen-Grealis. STYLING NHS staff’s own. SPONSORED BY Davines UK and Hair Tools. PHOTOGRAPHY Rankin.

THE BIG IDEA

ADEE’S NHS GIFTS FOR HEROES PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANKIN

You’ll have no doubt heard about this initiative, created by Adee Phelan when the pandemic first struck to share boxed donations of hair treats with NHS workers and a thank you for all their tireless work. Resuscitated for Christmas initially, it has now been extended due to the current lockdown and the extra stress on the NHS, and it’s all supported by the rather incredible milestone you see here. It’s a shoot with NHS workers by the legendary photographer Rankin, captured on the day the first vaccine was administered. Those featured range from support staff to a head of an intensive care unit, all dressed in their colours and selected through internal polls as examples of staff who have gone above and beyond during the pandemic. Adee grabbed another legend, Errol Douglas MBE, to help him on hair, and the images will be blown up to 6ft portraits, signed and auctioned off to raise further funds, thanks to the support of Jay Rutland at The Maddox Gallery, which will hold a virtual exhibition and host the auction. The 650 on Adee’s scrubs? The number of NHS workers lost to Covid-19 at the time of the shoot. Now, in addition to the portrait sales, Adee is searching for product donations once again – do you have any old stock in your salon that you can spare? He’s keen to hear from brand manufacturers who can dig deep and supply stock to ensure these boxes get filled, too. Oh, and if you have some time and can help distribute gift boxes in your local area, do please get in touch – he’s hoping that the hair community will help him salute the star staff of the NHS once more. And Adee, we salute you too! If you want to support Adee with any product donations or can help with gift box distribution, please contact him on adee@sknhead.com or octavia@octaviacoatespr.com SEE MORE from the shoot at creativeheadmag.com

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21/01/2021 13:15


2020

“THE DEFINITION OF A CREATIVE” CASSIE STEER, FREELANCE BEAUTY EDITOR AND CONSULTANT � JUDGE

THIS IS HOW THEY DO IT! Creative HEAD’s The It List, exclusively partnered by ghd, recognises and rewards the most exciting hairdressing talents in the UK and Ireland, aged 30 or under. We named our 2020 finalists last July, and 30 exceptional stars on the rise have been waiting patiently, along with hundreds of Grand Final ticketholders, for results night – rescheduled for 29 March (the pandemic may have scuppered our plans to party, but we’ve never stopped preparing for a night to remember!). So, we keep calm, carry on and look forward to March, but let’s take a moment to revel in the mighty power of The It List. Past winners have gone on to achieve major industry success – think Sophia Hilton, Ky Wilson, Leigh Keates, Cyndia Harvey and Chris Appleton, to name just a few. So many talents have been snapped up by artist management agencies, booked by big brands, are succeeding in self-made businesses and have flown across the globe to work with A-listers and alongside high-profile creatives. Wowzer.

1 MARCH

So, who are the ground-breakers, business-builders, innovators and style-makers, all vying for a 2020 trophy? Let’s say a fresh hello to 30 awesome It List finalists, and check out their journey so far…

THE LAUNCH OF THE IT LIST 2020!

H 23 MARCTE NDED G DATE EX

“PROOF THAT CREATIVITY CAN COME IN THE HARDEST OF TIMES”

CLOSIN ED TO CLOSE AS SALONS ARE FORC WN. WITH MORE WE GO INTO LOCKDO THINK ABOUT, TO GS PRESSING THIN G THE IT LIST CLOSIN WE PUSHED BACK NE YO ER EV G VIN GI , DATE TO 10 JUNE OLE EXTRA JUST SHY OF A WH ENTRIES EIR TH T MONTH TO PU TOGETHER

SHANNON PETER, BEAUTY DIRECTOR AT STYLIST

� JUDGE 046-049_IT LIST.indd 1

20/01/2021 12:39


THE 2020 IT LIST FINALISTS ARE… THE RISING STAR JOHN ALFRED Paul Edmonds London, London SANDRA HAHNEL Trevor Sorbie, London CAMERON WILLETTS Combers Inside-Out, Taunton NATHAN KLEIN Simon Webster Hair, Brighton ANNABEL PAYNE Toni&Guy, Salisbury

10 JUNE

our beautiful stylist “We are so proud that n represent our @annabel_payne00 ca e The Rising Star m team to hopefully beco 20!” 20 ds ar for The It List Aw

DEADLINE DAY!

AFTER MONTHS OF HARD WORK AND DEDICATION, THE TIME HAD COME TO DOT THE LAST I’S AND CROSS THE FINAL T’S ON THOSE 2020 ENTRIES!

ry – FINALIST @toniandguysalisbu

27

2020 VENMARCH UE R WHEN YO U KNOW EVEALED YO A

GOOD U’RE O TO LET IT THING, YOU’D BE NTO G WE’RE BR O, RIGHT? THA SILLY T ’S W INGIN BACK TO G THE GRAND F HY INAL PRINT WO LONDON LANDMA RKS, THE R K THAT ’S A BEACO NF GOOD PA OR A RTY!

THE EDITORIAL STYLIST JACK BAKER Bad Apple Hair, West Midlands

11 MAY

MWIT GETS DIGITAL

AS LOCKDOWN GREW LONGER, WE UNDERSTOOD THAT FOR SOME ENTRANTS SUBMITTING A HARD COPY ENTRY WOULDN’T BE POSSIBLE – SO WE CONFIRMED DIGITAL ENTRIES WOULD BE ACCEPTED, TOO!

“BURSTING WITH CREATIVITY” LOUIS BYRNE, CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST AND DIRECTOR OF I CAN, I AM AND I WILL

LAUREN BELL Nicholas James, London AIDAN DARCY Dublin

TOM GILLING Adam Reed London, London RYAN STEEDMAN Adam Reed London, London

“I’m BURSTING with excite me yes I screamed and yes I cri nt, ed! I’m so overwhelmed I have finalised for Editorial Stylist !” @jaksbhair – FINALIST

– JUDGE 046-049_IT LIST.indd 2

21/01/2021 13:18


“GREAT DETERMINATION” MARK MACIVER, BARBER, CEO AND FOUNDER OF SLIDERCUTS – JUDGE

THE ENTREPRENEUR JACK BAXTER Baxter South, Glasgow BROOKE EVANS BE Ironbridge, Telford

KATY GRIMSHAW Spectrum One, Rossendale

KYLE ROSS Sovereign Grooming, Aberdeen RICKY WALTERS SALON64, London

“LOVE THE ENERGY” JONNY LONG, CO-FOUNDER OF LOCKONEGO – JUDGE

THE VISIONARY

ve “I am over the moon to ha so tight are s ard aw se the , ed finalis try us ind with so many amazing mbled hu ly tru names entering! I am !” ory eg cat s to get a place in thi

NIKITA FISHER London

MARLON HAWKINS Brooks & Brooks, London

ST @be.ironbridge – FINALI

PASCAL LOMBARDO Gielly Green, London

JORDAN MASSARELLA NashWhite, Leamington Spa SHELLEY SUMNER Huddersfield

8 JULY

THE FINALISTS ARE UNVEILED…

ASSISTANTS DREAMING OF STARDOM, SALON OWNERS BOS SING IT IN BUSINESS, CREATIVES DEMONSTRATING TRAILBLAZIN G TECHNIQUES... OUR 30 IT LIST FINALISTS WERE NAMED!

7 JULJYUDGING!

THE IT LISE BTIGGEST NAMES

SOME OF TH D FASHION , BEAUTY AN IN THE HAIR CK STUDIOS ERED AT LO TH A G S IE SUITABLE INDUSTR N (ALL AT A O D N LO T S IN EA TO JUDGE F COURSE!) O , E C N TA IS D F ENTRIES D NUMBER O ST T WO THE RECOR JU RECEIVED… THAT WERE REOPENED. S N LO A S DAYS AFTER MITMENT! THAT ’S COM

“DEDICATION TO THE CRAFT” ADAM REED, FOUNDER OF ADAM REED LONDON

– JUDGE

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21/01/2021 13:19


“THE CREATIVITY AND AMOUNT OF WORK WAS BEYOND IMPRESSIVE”

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE, OWNER OF ERROL DOUGLAS

� JUDGE

and “It “I have been shortlisted for “Editorial Stylist” happy ed, excit how ds wor into Guy” and I cannot put thank and proud I am. I could not be more grateful, es. Once you to @creativeheadmag and all the judg ible. poss you truly believe in yourself anything is Congratulations to all the finalists!” @aidendarcyhair � FINALIST

THE IT GIRL LAUREN BELL Nicholas James, London ELLIE BOND Prema London, London

LEAH HAYDEN CASSIDY Unit 8 by Hayden, London

THE IT GUY

JORDANNA COBELLA Cobella, London

PHILIP BENTON Douce, Cambridge

KATIE HALE Charles Worthington, London

AIDAN DARCY Dublin

“Still in shock! Can’t quite believe I’ve made the finals in two categories ‘Men’s Hair Specialis t’ and ‘It Girl’ in the @creativeheadmag awards. Although 2020 has been a crazy year worldwi de, it’s definitely been one to remember for my career! BIG LOVE and good luck to everybody.”

TOM GILLING Adam Reed London, London ALASTAIR JUBBS VAE Hair Ltd, Norfolk LOUIS MAHARAJ Toni&Guy, London

@hayden_cassidy � FINALIST

@jordanmassarella � FINALIST

20 20 2020

7 OCTOFINBAELRGETS

THE GRAND E TO PARTY T BUT OUR A NEW DAALT ERNATIVES. E

TH ERED WE CONSID ERVE THEIR MOMENT IN CE OF N ES IE D D U TS A S N LI A A N FI FEEL OTLIGHT. TO APPLAUSE, #MWIT20 SP 00 PEERS ERUPT INTO NER AND 7 MORE THAN WITH A DELICIOUS DIN E THAT C TE N A R IE TO CELEB TO EXPER INGS YOU FTERPARTY, ELECTRIC A ZZ; THESE ARE THE TH E THE U R B A E ED ES LL AND TH UNRIVA REPLICATE, TO COMPROMISE ’T N A C T S JU T E DIDN’T WAN THINGS WE WHY WE POSTPONED TH ’S T L TI ON. THA N U L GRAND FINA H 29 MARC

29 MARCH – IT’S THE FINAL COUNTDOWN! IT’S COMING… THE MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST GRAND FINAL WILL HIT LONDON’S PRINTWORKS ON 29 MARCH – AND GOOD GRIEF, IT CAN’T GET HERE SOON ENOUGH! WE’VE HELD OFF AS LONG AS POSSIBLE BUT WE’RE WORKING OUR SOCKS OFF TO DELIVER A SPECTACULARLY STARRY, STARRY NIGHT FOR EVERYBODY INVOLVED. TO OUR FABULOUS TROPHY-HUNTERS, TO GHD AND TO ALL THOSE WHO HAVE PURCHASED TICKETS ALREADY, THANK YOU FOR WAITING SO PATIENTLY AND FOR STICKING WITH US ON THIS EXTRAORDINARY MWIT20 JOURNEY. THE WAIT IS ALMOST OVER – THE DESTINATION’S FIRMLY IN SIGHT… CAN YOU FEEL THE BUZZ? AND AS FOR THE IT LIST 2021, IT’LL BE IN FULL SWING FROM 1 APRIL! MARK 6 SEPTEMBER IN YOUR CALENDAR, TOO, FOR THE MWIT21 GRAND FINAL. FOR ALL THE DATES, VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST AND SIGN UP AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/NEWSLETTER TO RECEIVE COMPETITION NEWS AND ALERTS.

GOT QUESTIONS about the #MWIT20 Grand Final? Call 01434 610 940

046-049_IT LIST.indd 4

Imagery contained within this feature has been provided by finalists and cleared for publication in Creative HEAD. Judging day photography by Sarah Seal

“WILD to shortlist in the #MWIT20 ‘THE VISIONARY’ category! Such a privilege and an honour to be recognised for your vision and creative process, this is as good as it gets for a colourist like me.”

THE IT LIST 2020 IS EXCLUSIVELY SPONSORED BY

20/01/2021 12:40


What’s the Alternative? The Covid-19 pandemic has left many consumers reassessing their lives, their values, their beliefs. Lots of your clients want the brands on which they spend money and time to align with their values more than ever... and brands are responding. What does this mean for your business? For many salons and independent stylists, it’s about finding an alternative way forward...

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CREATIVE HEAD

20/01/2021 12:44


You’re the one that I want

Different clients have increasingly different needs and wants – and they’re getting more vocal about it. Mintel’s Consumer Trends 2021 report notes that: “Consumers around the world are making their voices heard loud and clear in the push for equity, agency, and rights.” Clients are looking for values that match their own and products that meet their needs, unafraid to call out for what they perceive is lacking. Engagement with your clients is key, to assess their shifting wants and needs in order to respond appropriately. “This is an extremely challenging business environment. Salons have the option to engage in a price race-to-the-bottom that they cannot win, or they can focus on differentiation,” suggests Nikolas Tilaveridis, education and events manager at ALTERNA Europe. “Indie brands are the best option for this latter quest, and can help salons create a more credible and robust value proposition for the consumer. Combined with excellent customer-centric service, an indie brand is the salon’s best friend for the post-pandemic future.” Offering clients something hand-picked, something different that they won’t have seen before, is a powerful tool for selling both your expertise and the products.

Watch your footprint

People want positive change, both in society and to protect the planet for future generations, according to the Mintel report. The need to cater for those interested in brand ethics and eco-friendly attitudes is only accelerating. “Consumer consciousness of sustainability will evolve beyond recycling and carbon emissions into a more holistic, longer-term view,” it adds. It’s a sentiment that rings true for Tom Beresford, owner of Hive Hair Salon in Leeds. He was the first salon owner in the north of England to take on California-cool R&Co products. “It’s such a well-rounded, fully vegan brand and it works! I’m very passionate about it,” he says. Aveda might be a global company now, but it has always carved its own path. 2021 marks a significant milestone for the brand, with all products now certified as vegan. It continues to assess and evaluate where else in the company it can contribute to a greener future. “Behind Aveda is a passionate team energised by our mission to care for the world we live in, and our transition to 100 per cent vegan formulations is a testament to their hard work,” says Barbara De Laere, Aveda global brand president. “We believe there is no reason why we can’t have sustainable, animal-friendly products that work for all!”

Freedom of identity

Social media has driven salons and stylists to become more personalised and individualistic to attract their dream clientele, and this trickles down into brand choices. Brands such as Manic Panic and Pulp Riot are ideal for colourists looking for punchy pigments without the stiffness of a corporate feel, while others such as Maria Nila and FFØR exude a more low-key, effortless vibe. Iain Curran, brand manager for FFØR, explains: “Working with smaller, more independent names gives salons the opportunity to grow and flourish with the brand together, it’s an exciting and integral part of both journeys. We recognise this and, as FFØR was developed closely with stylists, it’s been part of our DNA from the beginning.” A lot of salon owners are happy to sit under the safe arch of an established brand. But some want to walk a different path. Theresa Holt, owner of Saffron Hair in Hythe, Kent, had been trying to come up with ways to make her salon stand out. The answer? “Offering our own Saffron Hair retail product range,” she says. The salon spent months in talks with different product development companies, until they found one that ticked all the boxes. She adds: “It is fairly local to us, has the option to buy in bulk and refill clients’ empties, it’s not tested on animals and is mostly vegan friendly. During our first lockdown we managed to sell more than £5,000 in retail stock, much of which was posted out to customers who had never set foot in our salon.”

Investing wisely

The pandemic has put a halt to a lot of spending, either due to lack of access to the high street in lockdown or purse-tightening responses to job uncertainty. “At a time of continued economic uncertainty, brands must communicate and deliver tangible benefits that make products indispensable,” the Mintel trend report confirms. A carefully curated yet varied approach to products and services can do just that. There is unique flexibility to be found in alternative brands, which can work wonders when you’re watching the pennies. Look to brands such as Hairstory – its stock is held online by the brand, and instead salons earn commission through trackable referrals, giving you much more economic freedom. Aveda’s A-Commerce system, launched last year, offers a similar scheme. It helps you set up your own online retail, and manages all of the logistics for you.

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21/01/2021 13:20


Independents day

Plenty of alternative brands are ready for your salon… Kelsey Cliffe

KLUB Salon, Manchester “We’ve seen a rise in smaller, independent, almost studio-like salons. They offer the personal touch, making clients feel welcomed, seen, heard and valued. Our clients are not just looking to buy services, they buy relationships, stories and magic. “With a commitment to quality and excellence, ALTERNA was the perfect partner. Having a brand that remains solely professional and not found on the shelves of high street stores is important to us. “Clients are investing in their well-being and self-care more than ever, in the chair and with takehome products. ALTERNA Hair Rituals make for an elevated customer experience that clients are seeking in the salon. The brand’s newest homecare line, My Hair. My Canvas. has a sustainable approach and is vegan friendly, too!”

ALTERNA MY HAIR. MY CANVAS. ANY WAY TEXTURE SPRAY Formulated with white charcoal for long-lasting styles and protection from pollutants.

ELECTRIC ºC-6 CLOUDBURST MOUSSE Avocado oil replaces alcohol in the ingredients for a range of health benefits with no stickiness or residue.

Courtney Forbes

The Collective, Aberdeen “Providing an alternative brand absolutely helps you to stand out from the crowd of local salons, however it can be quite daunting too. You don’t want to be judged, and you do feel the pressure to conform. It can also be a huge task getting your stylists to step away from what they know. “The first lockdown gave us time to reflect, and we could see a shift in our market. We and our clients are looking for more sustainably made, vegan and crueltyfree products. We were keen to launch a new range as part of our return from lockdown. That said, we were also aware of the devastating impact this pandemic has had on our local economy. We looked and tested a few brands but FFØR was the perfect fit for us in all aspects and is locally made here in Scotland! I’m so glad we did, as both our clients and stylists love the range. We are proud to have it as part of our offering.”

ASP INFINITI COLOUR A complete colour system featuring an incredible 139 stunning shades and next level GPSTECnology to boost colour performance.

FFØR INNER STRENGTH TREATMENT Concentrated drops with a multifaceted protein-based complex helps this treatment build strength from within.

AVEDA BOTANICAL REPAIR INTENSIVE STRENGTHENING MASKS This mask duo helps to both strengthen and repair hair with plant lipids, suitable for all hair types.

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20/01/2021 12:51


COLØUR A BETTER WAY

FFØR’S LATEST INNOVATION IN HAIR COLOUR CONTINUES THE CHALLENGER BRAND’S ETHOS TO DO GOOD WHILE LOOKING AND FEELING GOOD, TOO. DISCOVER COLOUR WITH FRESH EYES… FFØR WAS AN IDEA born from the minds of a group of passionate hairstylists and chemists. They had a dream of a haircare range that could do everything a professional brand needs to without having to compromise on ethics or the environment. The team’s efforts to fuse nature and science have created effective, gender-neutral products with a smaller environmental footprint. It’s a philosophy upon which all choices are made, having been built into the name: Free From. Øriginal. Real. The results? A brand that is proudly 100 per cent vegan, cruelty-free, gluten-free, and formulated without the use of sulphates, mineral oil or synthetic fragrances. The new FFØR Hair Colour is a complete professional colour system – comprising hair colour in 60 shades with developers, and a High Lift Lightening Powder that can lift up to nine shades. Creativity is at the core of this latest invention, inspired by the colourful refractions of light in a glass prism. This is multi-faceted colour that gives colourists with a conscience the tools to deliver results that glisten. It follows years of extensive research by FFØR’s laboratories to mix a palette with the highest number of natural ingredients possible. It enables FFØR Hair Colour to achieve the same high-level of colour deposition, coverage and retention as ammonia-free formulas, while being gentler than many other brands. As with all FFØR products, the range is packaged sustainably, in either 100 per cent recyclable aluminium tubes (housed in FSC-certified cardboard cartons) or PCR (postconsumer recycled) jars and bottles. You can colour knowing that your choice of partner does not compromise your efforts to be more sustainable, and that the results will always be exceptional. If you’re searching for an alternative colour range to meet the demands of your creativity and your conscience, FFØR is for you.

Iain Curran, FFØR brand manager, understands the importance hair colour can have on a client’s confidence in themselves and in their colourist. He says: “Hair colour allows people to be who they really are. FFØR’s colour range truly is an artistry palette; a compact portfolio that is 100 per cent intermixable, allowing the colourist to deliver beautiful, classic colour or push the boundaries and create couture fashion shades. Everything about the range feels luxurious. Whether it be the luminous shine and condition the client’s hair has after the colouration service to the immersive fragrances, with notes of bergamot and vetiver, which is a welcome change to the overpowering odour of ammonia.”

EXPLORE FFØR’S ETHOS OF DO GOOD, LOOK GOOD AND FEEL GOOD, EMAIL SALES@FFORHAIR.COM

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20/01/2021 12:52


Lox of Love

REVEALED!

THE 8 SECRETS OF EXTENSIONS STYLISTS We asked some of the busiest extensions experts to share inside information on growing your client base, marketing your skills and boosting your business. Sssh!

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CREATIVE HEAD

20/01/2021 12:54


1.

WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER

KATY GRIMSHAW, SPECTRUM ONE, ROSSENDALE

Victoria Cartwright

3.

We can achieve things with extensions that you can’t achieve with colour alone, and so we can surpass client expectations. It’s a time- and costeffective service for us. The rule that I apply to everything is to work smarter, not harder! We offer iTips, wefts and tapes. Tapes are by far the most popular, and are quicker to fit – one pack takes us about 15 minutes – we can make money faster and it’s an easier application method. Tapes suit all hair types and they are kind to the natural hair with minimal damage. When we started offering our own extensions in 2015 clients always chose iTips, but we’ve seen a real shift towards tapes from all ages. Not every extensions service needs to be a full transformation; just one pack of tapes can be enough. Being organised and educating every member of the team in extensions services makes it work for us as a profitable offering.

2.

NATURAL STYLES AND LOW-MAINTENANCE LOOKS ARE IN – AND EXTENSIONS CAN HELP DELIVER

JACQUELINE CURRAN, RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL, EAST KILBRIDE AND AYR Clients are still looking for treatments that allow them to look and feel their best during such a tough time. Natural styles are popular and clients are looking for more low maintenance. For example, the added thickness and length of the extensions may allow them to style their hair a lot easier into a bun or a braid. Clients are definitely looking for extensions that look very natural, as if they are their own hair. Balayage in particular is a huge trend at the minute that can be created using extensions. We use Great Lengths as we think they’re the highest quality and we also use Barclay Wolf Tape Extensions, which are great as they can be repositioned to keep the look fresh.

TALK LONG TERM, EVERYDAY ENHANCEMENT AND AN EASIER ROUTINE

VICTORIA CARTWRIGHT, LOX OF LOVE, LEEDS AND DURHAM Our focus is ‘hair enhancement’ – rather than trying to appeal to those who want Rapunzel hair we focus on attracting clients who want long-term, everyday enhancement that will make their hair routine easier, boost their confidence and solve daily hair issues. Maintenance is what keeps our clients coming back far more regularly. Using a brand like Remi Cachet, where the life expectancy of a set of extensions is so long, means we expect to see clients every six to eight weeks. This is a much shorter rebooking cycle than what we see for colouring services. If a client is returning for a maintenance appointment, we can upsell additional services, too.

Before

After

4.

SHOW HOW IT CAN BE QUICK AND AFFORDABLE

JENNIFER LINTON, LINTON & MAC, ABERDEEN We promote Express Extensions a lot. It’s a great way to get clients on to extensions by introducing a ‘cheaper’ first approach. We use tape extensions from Beauty Works or Richy and promote our express service for filling in the front area. Most women have shorter hair round their face due to breakage and over-processing with colour and heat. Filling out the front hairline transforms their look. We do four pieces for £25 each and it takes 15 minutes to apply. Extensions are also a great introduction to colour; the service allows you to build up the client’s confidence. It’s key to making extensions work in our salon – it’s a great way to keep costs down for the client and then they get hooked. The pricing is transparent, and we recommend six weeks between appointments. Our target audience for the service is aged from late 20s to 40s – they want quality but don’t want to spend hours getting ready so it’s ideal. 55

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ANTHONY MCMEIKEN, SASSINE, NEWCASTLE

TEACH YOUR TEAM AND GET THEM TALKING

VICKY DEMETRIOU, LARRY KING, LONDON I’m a Great Lengths Certified Stylist, and I believe the key to making hair extensions work in your salon is staff education. If your team understands extensions and what is possible, they can suggest options more confidently instead of waiting and hoping for clients to come and ask. Retail support is essential, too. It’s a great way to keep in touch with clients and keep an eye on how they maintain their hair. The correct brush and shampoo, for example, can extend the life of the extensions. Consultations are an absolute necessity; most of the time clients are unaware that they can achieve the look they want with just a few pieces. You can offer a cut and add on some volume; often it only takes 30 minutes more for the extra hair to be applied and it can completely transform their look. If you are already using a brand it’s important to stay in touch as it can keep you up-to-date with the latest and help with ideas. Follow that brand on social media! And find a service that works for you or your salon. For example, tapes might be more suitable for a stylist on the go than bonds.

Consultation is the most important part of any service and is perfect for choosing additional products and services for your guest. We always provide bespoke solutions catering to a guest’s individual needs, so if extensions will help achieve the desired results they will always be discussed in the consultation. All of our Rapture extensions clients are already colour clients and most visit us weekly for blow-drys and styling. The Rapture system lets us fully remove the added hair each time to allow full colouration.

7.

TRY CLIP-INS TO BOOST YOUR BRIDAL BUSINESS

RACHAEL CAPOCCI, OXFORDSHIRE BRIDAL HAIR Brides often request a style for their wedding day that is unachievable due to their own hair lacking in length or thickness. By having beautiful extensions in your kit you can offer much more choice to brides. Clip-in hair extensions from The Heart Company deliver such a wide range of colours and lengths. They can transform hair instantly leaving it looking fuller, healthier and longer, and they have a unique design, as the weft sits very flat against the hair. Also the thickness from the root to the tip is incredible. It’s something I’ve always wanted and struggled to find with previous brands.

8.

DON’T LET THE PANDEMIC PUT YOU OFF ROWAN MILNE, ROW66, EDINBURGH In my experience, luxury services such as extensions tend to do well during a crisis. I remember being pleasantly surprised as demand increased during the 2008 financial crisis. Extensions can be as transformative as plastic surgery or fillers, without the invasive element. I’ve had clients cry with delight after their transformation is complete! Restorative work can be particularly rewarding. Extensions are no longer just for glamour and the market has become vast. My client base ranges from 16-year-old TikTokkers to 70-year-old women seeking to rectify thinning hair – and everything in between. My advice would be get in there and take advantage of this incredible growth market – but do it in a professional manner. It’s important that you go to a reputable training academy and learn about trichology, too. Poorly done extensions can cause traction alopecia and other problems. Also, make this your core expertise. If you’re already a colourist, adding tape extensions or weaves to your repertoire might be do-able given the short learning curve, but becoming an exceptional fusion bond extensions specialist takes time.

Rachael Capocci

5.

6.

USE THE CONSULTATION TO SHOUT ABOUT YOUR EXTENSIONS SERVICES

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OUR NEW NORMAL IS DIGITAL – AND THE GHD SPRING/SUMMER 2021 TREND REVEAL, DIGI-CONNECT, IS INSPIRED BY THE DIVERSITY AND GLOBAL VIEW OF ONLINE BEAUTY. WITH STYLISED SILHOUETTES, TOUCHABLE TEXTURES AND ENHANCED FINISHES FROM GHD UK TRADE EDUCATION AMBASSADOR, JAMES EARNSHAW, THIS COLLECTION EXPLORES THE FICTITIOUS REALITY OF VIRTUAL PLATFORMS PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR James Earnshaw. CREATIVE CONCEPT Amy Sontae. MAKE- UP Meg Lindow. STYLING Ozzy Shah.


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WITH DISTINCTION IN DIVERGENCE, THE SLATE HAIR EDUCATION TEAM PLAYS WITH CONTRASTS IN SOCIETY, AND HOW HAIR SHIFTS TO REFLECT A SUBJECT’S BELIEFS AND STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY PANOS DAMASKINIDIS CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR SLATE Hair Education Team. MAKE-UP Violet Zeng. STYLING Francesca Pinna. MODELS Daisy, Izzy, Rachel, Joe.


Calling for NHS Gifts for Heroes a mbassa dors in Liverpool, Manchester, Birmin gha m, Glasgow and Wales

Thank you @alanmcgee93 for music advice for my docu mentary – my most important project so far

With my son Hunte r celebrating our joint birthda y. And yes he’s a @liverpoolfc fan too

In the

I needed help with Gifts for Heroes Xmas special. Step forward @errold ouglas hair

frame Adee Phelan (adee_phelan_5), finalist for the 2020 Most Wanted Award for Innovation for his NHS Gifts for Heroes project, snaps away

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No need to talk, no need to open up. Just a Park Life walk and a hot tea. Small steps… CREATIVE HEAD

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