£4.50 CHRISTMAS 2020
In print•online•everywhere everywhere!
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EXPRESS YOURSELF! Individuality, originality, creative freedom… Creative HEAD took to Instagram to share the chance to form the cover shoot for the Christmas issue, the final edition of this unprecedented year. In partnership with Matrix, we invited creatives from across the UK – independent freelancers and salon-based stylists – to submit a short film that captured themselves and their vision, as we hunted out freethinking stylists buzzing with ideas and passion with stories to tell. We wanted each look from each artist to be a story of self-expression; their voice in visual form. What do you stand for as an artist? What fuels your creativity? What stamp do you want to leave on the hairdressing industry? It’s a blank page for these fiercely independent talents to showcase something that feels completely, authentically them – powered by Matrix and its mission to provide a creative playground for artists to express themselves completely. With two brilliant Matrix mentors – Lisa Farrall and Ria Kulik – there behind the scenes to support and nurture these individual and personal stories, this was a chance to follow their own brief, a wide open space of possibility… and that’s just the way we like it! The playground is open to all – the Matrix Colour Collective. This comprises inspirational, creative, individual and authentic colour specialists; a mix of eclectic, fresh and unique talent. The movement cultivates a community of hairdressers with different skills and levels of experience from all walks of life, all with a shared vision: to push the boundaries of hair. Whether a salon employee or a freelancer working independently, the Matrix Colour Collective welcomes hairdressers into its community who find inspiration through ideas and skills, sharing and learning from one another… just like this incredible shoot. Supported by Matrix education and an extensive professional colour and haircare portfolio, each individual can discover their own path, allowing them to be their true, authentic selves without ever feeling alone. Matrix Colour Collective is not a members-only club; it’s an open invitation to be a part of something bigger. A way for artists to come together in a welcoming community to explore, share ideas, create and learn from each other, while trying new and existing colour and retail with complete confidence. Doesn’t that sound inviting?
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Hair Mary Adekoya, Papachichi Style; Troy Alexandros, Arcana Studios; Jordanna Cobella, Cobella; Thomas Frear; Sam
Kerswell, Mode Hair Lab; Maxine McArthur Matrix mentors Lisa Farrall, WIG London; Ria Kulik, The Hairbank PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY Conor Clinch, assisted by Guy Gunstone Behind the scenes photography: Creative HEAD and Matrix Make-up Eli Wakamatsu @Stella Creative Artists using Honest Beauty, assisted by Elina Balint Fashion Issie Gibbons, assisted by Rae Harrison-Doyle @Stella Creative Artists Models Rose Gray; Lorna Markillie; Dani Nowokunska; Rachel Saville; Ava Roeg @The Hair Desk; Chanel Vegas Prepped at The Social London Shot at Luchmun Studios
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T O G E V ’ E W YOUR BACK
ective because of e specially chosen for the matrix Colour Coll wer – all Farr Lisa and k Kuli Ria – sts Arti r Two Matrix reflect what Matrix stands for. You’re neve they use beca and it spir ity mun com r thei their values, their vision, to play… but yourself. Come as you are and get ready ne anyo be to need r neve you and rix, Mat alone with
matrix artist The Hairbank, Urmston @riak_hair A THIRD-GENERATION HAIRDRESSER, RIA HAS ONE OF THOSE BUBBLY PERSONALITIES THAT CAN’T HELP BUT MAKE YOU SMILE WHEN YOU’RE IN HER COMPANY. AN IDEAL MENTOR FOR THE SHOOT, SHE’S A BRILLIANT ALLROUNDER WITH LOADS OF AWARDS TO HER NAME AND OODLES OF PASSION WHEN IT COMES TO EDUCATION…
“I live, eat and breathe Matrix, and have done since I started training. I know that colour shade chart inside out! Since Matrix took me under its wing, I have felt part of this family. some of the stylists had never used Matrix before, so it was brilliant to be able to show them the range on offer” RIA
ON THE PROJECT “I’m really, really excited to be here. It’s such a good project to be part of, especially when it’s all about expressing yourself. I really want to see the artists’ personal stamps – who they are, what they’re all about. Everyone is so different, and it’s really good to see that individuality coming out and they can save it for themselves in this moment, on this shoot.” BEING A MENTOR “I’m quite aware not to try and push someone into doing what I think they should be doing. It’s their vision, it is what they want to do, and I’m here just to guide them.“ THE RESULTS! “I personally love colour, it’s my first love. There are a lot of exciting fashion colours coming through, lots of pink in there, and I’m really excited to see that in front of the camera.”
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“Educatio n at the hea is really r at the cor t of me, and e of Matri love bein x. I g part of t he Matrix fa m it is ever ily because y stand for thing that I : individu a equality and suppo lity, r hairdress ting e being aut rs all while henticall y you” LISA
Lisa Farrall matrix ambassador, UK & Ireland WIG London, London @lisafarrall
COULD THERE BE A MORE PERFECTLY SUITED MENTOR FOR THIS PROJECT THAN LISA FARRALL? LISA IS A VOCAL ADVOCATE OF EMBRACING BEAUTY AND SELF-EXPRESSION IN EVERY FORM. SHE’S THE FOUNDER OF EDUCATION BRAND WIG LONDON, WHICH PUSHES FOR EVERY HAIRDRESSER TO BE ABLE TO WORK WITH EVERY HEAD OF HAIR, NO MATTER THE TYPE OR TEXTURE. LISA’S GOT YOU!
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ON THE PROJECT “Education is really at the heart of me, I love doing it but to work with these talented hairdressers, it just feels so good. Usually I would be getting stuck in doing a model’s hair but for me it’s about just stepping back, helping others to get inspired and just having a bit of fun. I’ve got the easy job, I’m just there for jokes! BEING A MENTOR “It feels amazing to be a mentor. When you’re doing a shoot like this and you’re bringing all of these amazing hairdressers together, I think it’s so important to bring a sense of community. That’s
what this project is all about – we’re all in this together, we’re stronger together, we’re sharing inspiration, we’re sharing tips. This shoot really represents that vibe.” THE RESULTS! “Looking at the moodboards and then talking to each stylist, it’s really interesting to see – they’re ready to do something that represents their individual style, that is completely, authentically, unapologetically them, and it’s such a mix. Some of the team are commercial, some want to push it a little bit more. I’m excited to see their styles come to life, because they’re all so different.”
Jordanna Cobella Cobella, Kensington @jordannacobella ARIES. SOCIALITE. CRITIC
THIS IS ME
I love FEMININITY, but WITH AN edge. that pops for people to just look at and think: ‘Hmm, how did she do that?’. I’m inspired by a designer called Zimmermann. He’s all about beautiful, feminine shapes, and also patterns. MY CREATIVITY IS FUELLED BY Looking outside the industry – interior design, fashion, even being in bars and restaurants… I’m a socialite! I enjoy talking to people and entrepreneurs, looking at people on the street – especially in Camden. I would love to give back to the industry as much as I’ve received from other educators and creatives. I’d love to inspire more people to join the industry because there is so much to offer and so much to take from it. It’s a huge conFidence builder. let your work do the talking and your voice will follow.
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“It’s been fantastic to bounce off Ria and Lisa’s energy. It’s wonderful when you can PUT Three heads together, rather than only take input from your own” Jordanna
AND THIS IS MY SELF-EXPRESSION
I’ve worked with a cool colour and a warm colour, merging the two together. And I’ve contoured around the face to complement my model’s beautiful blue eyes. I love messy, bed-head hair but with a tiny bit of a fInish and a ‘70s kind of set.
The model colour mix Matrix ColorSync Watercolours Quartz Pink Matrix ColorSync Watercolours Coral Peach Matrix ColorSync Sheer Pastel Violet (SPV)
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“ Th cre e wo – S ativi rst e ylv ty ne i m ia s Pla self y to - do th ub t”
Maxine McArthur Glasgow @maxinemcarthurhair NUTS. LOUD. GEEKY
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THIS IS ME
I see everything in the chair, from day-to-day commercial to looks that are really quite edgy and punky, because being a bit different myself, you attract your own clientele. Do what you want, when you want to, and be proud of it. I stand for individuality – because as much as I want to put my own twist on my client’s hair, I want them to be individual. I don’t want her walking around with the same hair as all her friends. If I’m honest, I’m just a total hair geek. I can just look at a painting or a building, or sometimes just a person, and be inspired. be the best that you can be and show what you stand for, which for me is colour. You are own worst enemy. If you tell yourself you can’t do it, you never will. A positive mental attitude makes a massive difference – giving you the conFidence to be able to listen to yourself. So, make sure you go with it, not against it.
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ia “Oh my gosh, R e been and Lisa hav en e great – it’s b t’s I so much fun. o geekt really nice erent f out with dif ved IT” o people. I’ve l Maxine
AND THIS IS MY SELFEXPRESSION
The model colour mix Matrix LightMaster8 With Bonder Inside Matrix SoColor Beauty Mocha Copper Matrix ColorSync Copper Booster Matrix ColorSync Red Booster
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This look is very ’80s, very raw – a natural ambience and embrace of colour. Everything was done old-school: freehand, scrunching… it’s really just about being practical and using the physical element rather than the structural and visual side of colour. I wanted to get an almost fur-like effect on the hair, but still make it look really feminine and sexy. I just looked to see where I wanted to place the colour and put it right there. It’s like fox fur with a Warhol twist.
AND THIS IS MY SELF-EXPRESSION
Colour is something I really like to experiment with, but I didn’t want to create anything scary. Think of an unconventional 2020 bride! I went in with the soft pink and the lilac, just to jazz it up and make it more contemporary. Then I ashed out the wig to give it a little more edge.
The model colour mix Matrix ColorSync Sheer Pastel Violet (SPV) Matrix SoColor Cult Starfish Coral (Direct) Matrix SoColor Cult Flemenco Fuschia (Direct)
“Lisa is amazing, she works a lot with wigs, and I felt like she really understood me; she knew exactly where I was going. I was a bit nervous though – she’s pro!” Mary
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THIS IS ME
I’m known for making a weave look so real that you have to look twice! I own at least 30 wigs, and I probably have another 30 with my sisters. Rewind two years and nobody would admit TO WEARING ONE, whereas now it’s LIKE: ‘yeah it’s a wig, so what?’. It’s become fashionable AND AS A RESULT, I’VE been able to be a lot more creative. MY CREATIVITY IS FUELED BY The need to widen my horizons and to do things differently. For me it’s like: ‘okay cool, you’ve done this, let’s do something ELSE!’. I’m in competition with myself to do better. I STAND FOR MAKING women feel absolutely beautiful, no matter what hair they choose.
Papachichi Style, London/Essex @papachichistyle HAPPY. STORYTELLER. BOUNDARY�PUSHER
In the world of social media, we’re plagued by competition and doubt, comparing ourselves with others. What would you do if social media shut down and there were no other voices? Whatever you CREATE, be happy. Look for what makes you happy, and what inspires you, and put THE TWO together.
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Thomas Frear Bournemouth @thomasfrearhair PUNK. PARIS. POP
THIS IS ME AS AN ARTIST, I
stand for freedom of identity, freedom of speech AND freedom from fear - FROM being judged in a very pretty world. I LIKE TO DO MY CREATIVE THINKING LOCKED IN MY BEDROOM, LISTENING TO Lana Del Rey. IF I COULD LEAVE A STAMP ON THE INDUSTRY, IT WOULD BE TO TEAR AparT THE CONCEPT OF BEAUTY. I am tired of seeing ‘pretty girls’ and ‘strong jawed men’ being projected into our lifestyles, creating unrealistic beauty standards on our population. MY ADVICE TO SOMEBODY STRUGGLING is TO Surround yourself with people who have similar views to you – the same ideology of how the world should be. It will dEFINITELY educate you AND HELP YOU TO GET TO WHERE YOU NEED TO BE. I have made a personal choice to only use queer people to model for my projects and creations as a celebration of the weird and wonderful humans in the world.
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Ria “Lisa and ely are so lov been e AND THey’v – l so helpfu used I’ve never ore f Matrix be ally e and they r et g helped me the a grasp on products” Tom
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AND THIS IS MY SELF-EXPRESSION
I chose to style my model, Dani as their drag persona, Well Hung Parliament, to show the underrated culture of drag kings; they just aren’t publicised as much as queens. Queer people are at the forefront of innovation in trend, authenticity, fashion and culture… it creates a subculture that runs into the mainstream and we never get credit for it! So, this story is a nod to queer rebellion. I wanted to take aspects of the ‘80s and ‘90s ballroom scenes with a queer punk vibe, destroying the binaries of gender. It’s just a real big gender-bending fashion moment of drag and queerness and pop punk vibes, intertwining into something that’s not really been seen before.
The model colour mix Matrix LightMaster8 With Bonder Inside Matrix ColorSync Red Booster Matrix ColorSync Copper Booster Matrix SoColor Cult Lucky Duck Yellow (Direct)
The model colour mix Matrix ColorSync Watercolours Coral Peach Matrix ColorSync Watercolours Berry Violet Matrix ColorSync Watercolours Quartz Pink Matrix ColorSync Dark Blonde Ash (6A) Matrix ColorSync Light Blonde Ash (8A) Matrix Color Sync Pearl (11P)
“It’s been brilliant working with Lisa and Ria. I’ve learnt so much from them both”
AND THIS IS MY SELF-EXPRESSION I wanted to do something completely diﬀerent, the opposite of what I do on a day-to-day basis, which is everything from balayage to intense, vivid rainbows and never anything in between. So, I thought: ‘let’s do some really soft, dusty tones.’ I’m really into crystals – I have amethyst in the studio – and I wanted to mimic that dusty lilac colour with the pink core. Then add a wave that’s not as formal as a finger wave but it sets a tone of place. It’s all just really soft.
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Mode Hair Lab, Plymouth @sam.kerswell FUN. FRIENDLY. CONSIDERATE
THIS IS ME
AS AN ARTIST, I STAND FOR Being nice to others.
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MY CREATIVITY IS FUELLED BY Google! I love the Google Doodles – when you click on the quote, you get other suggestions. THAT’S HOW I DISCOVERED CRYSTALS. I just kept clicking and seeing all these different colours, a total inspiration. MY ADVICE TO SOMEBODY TRYING TO FIND THEIR VOICE WOULD BE JUST TO Take time TO think about exactly what you’re going to do and where you want to go. My clientele is varied. I’ve got a lot of celebrity clients, I do a lot of wigs for celebrities and Ru Paul’s Drag Race. I do most of my creative thinking in the bath! I lay there as long as two hours – in all the vanillascented bubbles. I scroll through my phone, looking at other people’s work, and I just get thinking…
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Arcana Studios, Hackney @troy.hair BOLD. SHY. GENERATION Z
THIS IS ME
I get inspiration BY LOOKING TO the past – I TRY TO TAKE A LOOK FROM THE past and CREATE AN iconic colour for the futurE. MY CREATIVITY IS FUELLED BY Striving to FIND that next look. I’m very hard on myself. There’s always been A next BIG thing OR TREND – LIKE ombre OR balayage… I would like to be behind SOMETHING LIKE THAT AND LEAVE MY MARK ON THE INDUSTRY. THE ADVICE I WOULD GIVE TO SOMEBODY STRUGGLING TO FIND THEIR VOICE IS Just try TO FIND SOMETHING you’re good at and run with it. I do most of my creative thinking in the shower – it’s quiet, the sound of running water… ideas will always pop to me mid-hair wash, when I don’t have a pen around! Freedom is when someone sits in your chair and they say: ‘do whatever you want’. And I can really get creative and look at their style and lifestyle and bring out their personality in the best way.
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The model colour mix Matrix ColorSync Sheer Pastel Violet (SPV) Matrix ColorSync Watercolours Coral Peach Matrix ColorSync Watercolours Quartz Pink
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“Working with Ria and Lisa has really boosted my conFidence. They’ve given me loads of tips that I will carry into the future”
AND THIS IS MY SELF-EXPRESSION
I decided to go with the iconic Farrah Fawcett style from the ’70s – that blow-out but with a reference of a ’90s face frame, which has definitely come back into fashion. Because it’s an old-school look, I used an old-school technique; a classic blow-dry away from the face and then straight back on the rollers.
For even more from this exclusive cove r shoot, in partnership with Matrix, visit creativeheadmag.com/paint and creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled
VE RT OR IAL CR EATIV E HE AD AD
LET’S GET TOGETHER
You know what you want to create. Now you need tools you can rely on to let your creativity come alive. You bring the ideas, Matrix has the kit you need... IT’S AN EXCITING time to be involved with Matrix. A mainstay of salons and freelance kit bags for 40 years, hairdressers around the globe have grown up with Matrix, trained with Matrix. And for good reason – through the years, Matrix has been the brand that celebrates the hairdresser and makes them feel a part of the family. This is one of the main reasons as to why the Matrix Colour Collective was created – to help cultivate a community of hairdressers, by bringing together artists with varying levels of experience and expertise. Each artist is embraced as they are and encouraged to create and share their best hair techniques, while inspiring and learning from each other. Matrix provides the tools to bring their creations to life, with extensive professional colour and retail
Matrix LightMaster8 with Bonder Inside Care as you lift with new LightMaster8 With Bonder Inside pre-mixed to lift up to eight levels. Great for all lightening techniques.
ranges. Stylists turn to Matrix for its uncomplicated and easyto-use products allowing them to perfect their skills and craft with confidence. The Matrix community is supported by a strong education team of Matrix Artists and Educators, now even more accessible via digital education courses. It’s easier than ever to develop new skills and perfect your craft in your own time. 2021 – it is going to be a BIG year for the brand (keep your eyes peeled for more in the spring!). For now, discover more about the Matrix colour and retail ranges to help bring your hair creations to life. There are so many reasons to fall in love with Matrix, including these must-have products. The rest is up to you, so what will you create?
Matrix ColorSync toners
Choose from three toning technologies – Fast, Acidic and Alkaline. Matrix ColorSync 5 Minute Fast Toners offer quick toning at the backbar, Acidic formulas are great for sheer deposit-only toning, while Alkaline is ideal for seamless blending.
Matrix Total Results Keep Me Vivid Lamination Spray
The colour service essential! Reach for this clever bit of kit, a professional-only lamination spray, which helps lock-in colour, leaving hair visibly vibrant and shiny.
DISCOVER MORE ABOUT MATRIX, THE MATRIX COLOUR COLLECTIVE AND ALL THE BIG PLANS FOR 2021. VISIT MATRIXHAIRCARE.CO.UK AND FOLLOW �MATRIX ON INSTAGRAM AND ON FACEBOOK #MATRIX SIGN UP FOR THE LATEST NEWS AT MATRIXHAIRCARE.CO.UK�NEWSLETTER
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cH CREATIVE HEAD
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It’s been quite a year, hasn’t it? ONE OF THE most unsettling feelings is uncertainty, a great Learning to adapt has become big question mark hovering over you. Well, 2020 has magnified that the 2020 mantra but being feeling and then fed it steroids, repeatedly throwing the unknowable unable to host physical events at us, and we’ve had to improvise, trying to keep all those plates spinning. opened up opportunities to Unfortunately, as we head into 2021, there is still so much up in the air. deliver digital oﬀerings, which You can be left feeling like a human version of the ‘I don’t know’ emoji – shoulders have kept us all connected. up, hands out, questioning the EVERYTHING. That’s why we’ve pulled together Take Salon Smart Live, our a toolkit for the New Year, a resource packed with insight, ideas and inspiration to business networking event, help you pivot perfectly when life chucks something else at you, from page 38. And which went live stream I’m looking at Monday 29 March as a beacon of light in this darkness right now – (see page 52) – and with the new date for the Most Wanted and The It List Grand Final. Yes, we could have all sessions now accessible hosted a virtual event, but that Grand Final is about the experience; the food, the on-demand, expert advice cocktails, the roar of the audience when winners are revealed, the camaraderie, is available as and when you the celebration. That’s all worth waiting for… And when we get there, need it. We launched The my God we’ll have earned it all. Teachings – inspirational video tutorials from industry pros sharing their skills in creating wearable, commercial looks, see page 32. And there’s The Root of It – our Amanda Nottage new podcast series. See who Editor we’ve had in the recording studio for series two on page 34… creativeheadmag.com/events
TIVE HEAD REA
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ON THE COVER
PIECE OF THE ACTION
Hair supremo Richard Phillipart revisits some of his favourite looks for Salon Smart Live
READY FOR ANYTHING
Hair by Mary Adekoya, Troy Alexandros, Jordanna Cobella, Thomas Frear, Sam Kerswell, Maxine McArthur. Mentored by Lisa Farrall and Ria Kulik for Matrix. Photography by Conor Clinch. For full credits, see the cover section
A toolkit with all you need to help you face the future
Jennifer Ball at Laundry in Sheffield on when opportunity knocks
L’Oréal Professionnel celebrates with salons at Stronger Together
ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT
SPECIAL PROJECTS ASSISTANT
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certiﬁed as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, PO Box 289, Hexham, NE46 9HJ 01434 610416 firstname.lastname@example.org
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
THE GREAT ITALIAN JOURNEY PALERMO To ﬁnd out how you can become a Great Lengths certiﬁed stylist, speak to our team on +44 (0) 113 278 1292 and start your journey. www.greatlengths.com/uk
TRENDVISION AWARD 2020:
GOLDSWORTHY’S HAIR AND Toni&Guy Salisbury were the big winners from this year’s Wella Professionals TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final. Goldsworthy’s Kasey Garrett won Gold for UK Colour Artist while Sophie-Rose Goldsworthy scooped Gold for UK Colour Specialist. UK Craft Artist Gold was won Wella has by Toni&Guy Salisbury’s Annabel Payne while partnered with Green George Smith won Gold for Men’s Hair. For the Salon Collective to help ms first time the competition had a digital format, educate salons and their tea ability and ensure tain sus on with more than 1,000 entries on Instagram and er that most salon waste is eith es hop It d. 66 stylists reaching the Final and receiving ycle rec or d use reto encourage more salons digital mentoring. For the run down of winners to become members and across the six categories, turn to page 26 or use the Collective’s visit creativeheadmag.com services
L’Oréal Professionnel has already illustrated how intrinsically linked hair and fashion are, so the limited edition Steampod 3.0 x Karl Lagerfeld makes complete sense. Treat your retail shelves to the Little Black Dress of hair tools. lorealpartnershop.com/uk
Winning artists, clockwise from top left: Kasey Garrett, Sophie-Rose Goldsworthy, Annabel Payne, Aoife Pomphrett, George Smith and Rita Tuska *Post-Covid Research: Salon Reopening. Conducted by 2CV Research on behalf of L’Oréal UKI via online interviews with 292 women aged 16 to 74 who had a salon appointment after lockdown was lifted. Interviews took place 27 to 31 July 2020.
UK Craft Artist Gold Style Master UK & Ireland Gold
Men’s Hair UK & Ireland Gold
SALONS IN PARTS of the UK are currently closed under ‘circuit breaker’ interventions, yet clients are feeling much more relaxed about returning to the salon post-lockdown, according to new research from L’Oréal Professional Products Division. An impressive 95 per cent of people who returned to the salon felt safe post-lockdown, with 96 per cent feeling the same or better than usual after their salon appointment, compared with how they usually feel after an appointment pre-lockdown. These results come from research commissioned by L’Oréal Professional Products Division,* which includes brands L’Oréal Professionnel, Kérastase, Redken and Matrix, to discover how women feel after returning to the salon, and how salons continue to deliver an exceptional experience in the current climate. As well as delivering high hygiene standards across the board, salons have ensured that clients can still enjoy a great experience. More than nine in 10 surveyed (93 per cent) felt equally or more relaxed and pampered on their post-lockdown salon visit and 95 per cent felt the salon was clean and hygienic. The research also showed that 94 per cent were satisfied that measures in place were sufficient to reduce Covid-19 risk.
UK Colour Specialist Gold
CLIENTS ‘FEEL SAFE BACK IN THE SALON’
Editorial Look UK & Ireland Gold
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
UK Colour Artist Gold
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believe in love at first sight? Fall in love with
Vitality and energy from nature for beautiful hair.
milk proteins / fruit extracts / organic and naturally-sourced ingredients /
DISCOVER MORE AT MILKSHAKEHAIRCARE.CO.UK
Milk Shake Hair UK
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08/06/2020 15:55 12/11/19 09:46
Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel, Dyson, R+Co
FASHION WEEK S/S21
AHEAD Mark Fast
Luke Hersheson at Molly Goddard
It was a very different experience to normal but London Fashion Week continued post-Covid with a mix of socially distanced presentations and virtual events. At Molly Goddard, Luke Hersheson for L’Oréal Professionnel channelled Kate Moss via ’90s grunge for a just-woken-up vibe, while at Roksanda, Adam Reed for L’Oréal Professionnel delivered Zoom call-relaxed glamour. At Mark Fast, Maria Kovacs for R+Co presented ‘the day after the night before’, with a modern mix of dual texture. At Erdem, Most Wanted Session Stylist Anthony Turner channelled Lady Emma Hamilton with a modern, unkempt feel for Dyson.
of people surveyed feel uncomfortable discussing scalp psoriasis with their hairdresser or barber. That’s why Most Wanted Award for Innovation 2019 winner, The Lions Barber Collective, has teamed up with Psoriasis Association and LEO Pharma on the #HeadsUpToPsoriasis campaign, to prompt discussion and support for scalp psoriasis sufferers. Guides have been developed to help start conversations within salons, and include practical tips on how you can create a relaxed and positive experience. For more, visit HUTPsoriasis.com
MWIT’LL BE WORTH THE WAIT
The Most Wanted and It List Grand Final will now take place Monday 29 March 2021, following the decision to postpone amid rising Covid-19 numbers and increased restrictions. While the announcement will be disheartening for many, particularly the patient 2020 finalists, the choice reflects the commitment to deliver a live event experience rather than a virtual ceremony. Alfol special projects director, Joanna Andersen, explained: “To see and feel an audience of more than 700 peers erupt into applause, to experience that unrivalled buzz; these are things you can’t replicate and we just don’t want to compromise on.” For more, visit creativeheadmag.com
Mentoring launch for BAME talent CYNDIA HARVEY, Naoki Komiya and Bleach London are among the hair names involved with a new mentoring scheme launched for candidates from Black, Asian and Minority Ethnic (BAME) backgrounds interested in the beauty, fashion and creative industries. Mentoring Matters aims to link up candidates with mentors, such as Cyndia and Naoki, via one-to-one video call sessions to share insight, advice and direction. On completion of the video sessions, the organisation is looking to secure a variety of paid internships provided by partners such as Bleach London. Applicants must be aged 18 to 27. To apply contact info@mentoringmatters or @mentoring.matters on Instagram
What Christmas has in store for... ELENA LAVAGNI
NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY
We are concentrating on long-lasting, effective services to maximise results on minimum expenditure. We’re continuing to roll out our Blow Out to Go Out package until Christmas which consists of six junior blow-drys for £150. We’ve also got a head-to toe package with skin expert Renée Lapino, and nail expert Holly Wolff.
TAYLOR’S HAIR STUDIO
As well as being busy in the salon with the Christmas rush, I am forward planning for 2021. I am looking at my next photographic shoot and sourcing my team, while also compiling evidence to use in my award entries for next year. 2021 is set to be a very different year, let’s hope everything goes as planned…
MOVERS AND SHAKERS
Monica Teodoro is the new general manager, education and professional development, for L’Oréal Professional Products Division UK & Ireland, a newly created role. Freddie Banks will take up Monica’s previous role of general manager, L’Oréal Professionnel UK & Ireland, while Maya Sfeir will succeed Freddie as general manager, Kérastase and Shu Uemura Art of Hair, UK & Ireland.
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Socially distance yourself from compliance admin.
Timely Consultâ€™s customisable forms make staying Covid compliant easy. Timely Consult is great for quick and accurate NHS test and tracing and will automatically keep your client details up to date, without you having to do a thing! Access a range of expert templates, including a Covid health screener, and send forms to your clients via SMS or email to be completed securely online, and saved straight to their client record in Timely.
Talk to us: +44 20 3808 0465 gettimely.com/consult
Sparkling pops of lavender and pistachio are primed to catch the eyes of clients. Snap up these Tangle Teezer limited editions of The Wet Detangler, The Original and Compact Stylers for a bright Christmas.
RRP FROM £12 020 7274 6128 tangleteezer.com/professional
There’s lots to choose from Serie Expert by L’Oréal Professionnel – we love the Pro Longer cracker with its mini treats, or for full-sized fabulousness, there are shampoo and conditioner gift sets.
RRP CRACKER £12; GIFT SETS FROM £21.30 0800 030 4034 lorealpartnershop.com/uk
Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
Housed in a luxury washbag, the trio packs from milk_shake include its finest hair heroes.
01392 365 177
This teaser is a pleaser – R+Co’s Root Teasing and Texturizing Spray gives grit and hold at the roots for an all-day boost thanks to an invisible weblike effect.
Alterna has always been at the high end of seriously luxury haircare, but with an eye on clean formulas, too. Now it’s turning its focus to the increased consumer interest in self-care, the new luxury as we move toward 2021, knowing that modern clients are ever more ingredient-conscious and clean beauty-minded. In comes My Hair. My Canvas., a new, 100 per cent vegan product range divided into three parts – prime, create and style – that uses sustainably harvested botanical caviar to help improve moisture retention and smooth the cuticle to add bounce, shine and strength. RRP FROM £20 AVAILABLE AT ALAN HOWARD AND SALON PROMOTIONS alternahaircare.eu
For greener options, Aveda has a trio from its new Botanical Repair line – a full-sized LeaveIn Treatment and travel size Shampoo and Conditioner.
RRP £35 0370 192 5650 aveda.co.uk
Make it a luxurious Christmas with gifts from Neäl & Wølf – sulphate-, paraben-, TEA-, DEA- and cruelty-free products in cosmetic bags.
GIFT PRICE FROM £22 01282 444 900
01442 248 104 rebelbeautybrands.com
This Oil Ultime Argan & Barbary Fig Oil gift set from Schwarzkopf Professional includes a jade roller alongside a shampoo and finishing oil. Smooth!
RRP £27 0800 328 6920 schwarzkopfpro.com
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You’re a Class Act – not our words but Paul Mitchell’s. This gift set has a trio of classic favourites that will look brilliant under the tree.
0845 659 0011 salon-success. co.uk
Care for those vibrant Manic Panic results with this lineup of colour-safe shampoo and conditioner, as well as a clarifying shampoo that helps prep for a new hue.
RRP £11.99 EACH 01579 341 913 manic-panic.co.uk
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Help make your client’s salon colour last longer – or help them get a little experimental – with new Color Fresh Masks from Wella Professionals. There are 11 ready-made temporary colourdepositing masks, a winning combination of colour and care to revive or transform their tones at home. Those wanting to enhance can choose from the more natural-looking colours enriched with avocado oil and apricot kernel oil – Chocolate Touch is bound to be a winner with brunettes, while blondes can keep cool with Pearl Beige or revive highlights with Golden Gloss. Those feeling a little more playful will want to try the fun and vibrant tones laced with argan oil to keep hair looking luscious – pink, red, blue and mint deliver a veritable rainbow of possibilities. While Christmas parties might be off for many this year, these masks are perfect for making an impact on Zoom get-togethers!
RRP £15.70 EACH 0845 601 8128 wella.co.uk
h... c t a w o t e On
THE UNPRECEDENTED EVENTS of 2020 have understandably seen more clients anxious and stressed, and embracing a greater emphasis on self-care. There has perhaps never been a better time for L’ANZA, a much-loved indie salon brand already well known for its ‘heal the hair’ mission, to unveil its latest and rather unique innovation. L’ANZA Wellness CBD-Infused Hair Care acts as hair and scalp revitalisers, thanks to a gentle infusion of invigorating wildcrafted botanicals and premium cannabidiol. Working together, they promote hair’s natural balance, while soothing aromatherapy essences promote an overall sense of harmony and wellbeing. The line-up uses premium CBD Isolate, the purest form of CBD, extracted from hand-harvested hemp flower, stem and leaf. And it’s worth knowing that while many products out there claim to be CBD, they often contain cannabis sativa oil… which actually contains no CBD and so can’t boast all the brilliant invigorating and nourishing benefits. Oh, and just to be clear, the CBD Isolate process eliminates even trace
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amounts of THC, the psychoactive component in the cannabis plant, so your clients won’t be getting high on your haircare supply. But the CBD is only part of the story – the line-up of Revive Shampoo and Conditioner alongside the Soothing Serum is chock-full of other powerful ingredients. You’ll find macadamia nut oil that’s high in vitamin E and rich in antioxidants to help reduce breakage for noticeably stronger hair. There’s meadowfoam flower seed oil for soft and shiny hair, a real rejuvenating force for those suffering with dry or damaged lengths. The powerful anti-inflammatory liquorice root extract reduces redness and skin irritation, and minimises dark spots from UV damage. They’re multi-tasking marvels and no mistake. Clients keen to shop clean will also be thrilled to know that L’ANZA Wellness is free from sulphates, parabens and gluten, is vegan and is manufactured in Southern California using 85 per cent solar power. Let’s end 2020 on some good vibes, shall we?
RRP FROM £37 03330 142 444 lanza.com
WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I wanted to learn a trade that was creative and sociable. It wasn’t until my cousin, a really great hairdresser, suggested it that I thought: ‘Oh yeah, go on then!’. I’m just super lucky that I love it so much and managed to train in a wonderful salon. WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? My big highlights have been moving to Sheffield and being taken in by Laundry. It has brought some really great opportunities my way, such as attending Guerrilla Quiff and seeing some really mint hairstylists from all over the country do their thing, as well as meeting Rankin and watching him photograph it all!
JENNIFER BALL AGE: 22 SALON: LAUNDRY
WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I honestly have no idea. I’ve never had a plan and I like to keep it that way. The most important thing is to be happy and enjoy what you do, at the moment that’s happening tenfold. So, I’ll just keep at it – learning and meeting people. WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? It’d be nice to do some educating. Something I love about hairdressing is how you learn so many new things everyday by yourself. It’d be nice to share my own way of doing things and turn it into a sharing opportunity for other stylists as well.
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Inside story BLOW CITY GLASGOW
Located on the city’s Queen Street, BLOW CITY is a distinctly urban salon, oﬀering guests a thoroughly Instagrammable beauty experience. Indeed, blow-drys courtesy of celebrity stylist Jay Birmingham can be seen on the feeds of Helen Flanagan and Jilly Cross. Ash concrete ﬂoors, a caged wash station and positive pops of yellow throughout the space make the salon an uplifting visit, with walls lined with neon lighting and positive quotations to inspire creativity in the team. “The sunshine yellow was a bold move but it looks incredible against the black and white,” says founder Fallon Carberry, who launched the ﬁrst BLOW six years ago. “Neon signs bring more of a nightclub feel while concrete panels and caging features add some architectural credentials.” The 12 state-of-the-art hair stations are equipped with banana-coloured hair dryers to service the blow-dry menu, and there’s an exclusive hair extension area to amp up those ﬁnal ﬁnishes. In the basement you’ll ﬁnd UNBRANDED, a concept space that brands can make their own and collaborate in.
HOT BUY SIMPLE SOPHISTICATION
Understated and elegant, the Grandeur mirror from Takara Belmont captures that simple yet chic aesthetic perfectly. Available with a black or brass-coloured lacquered wood frame. Price £480 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk
Mirror, mirror on the wall… is the stunning key feature at this beautifully blush salon near Brighton from Natalie Mears.
THE BUSINESS EDIT
SHOULD SALONS RECRUIT RIGHT NOW? AT SALON SMART LIVE, one subject that popped up several times concerned the question of recruiting new staff, from apprentices upwards. One positive from the Coivd-19 pandemic has been the spotlight on hairdressing and the new-found appreciation consumers have for it. “We’ve never seen this kind of media coverage about hair,” admitted Hilary Hall, the outgoing chief executive of the NHBF. “That coverage actually changed politicians’ perception of our industry. This is an industry that the public values, and it’s the time to capitalise.” This now could have a positive impact on new talent coming into the industry, looking for careers in hair. And while the NHBF’s recent survey found 21 per cent of respondents predicted that further redundancies were imminent without government support, only about a third
thought they could guarantee job security for staff without extra help. Since the survey, the Job Retention Scheme and lockdown support has been unveiled to help now the furlough system has ended. So can salons be more optimistic in looking for staff? Simon Harris from Mysalonmanager has an interesting take: “Recruitment has been a massive challenge for all the salons we work with, and I always say: ‘Take on staff when you don’t need them. If you recruit when desperate, you’ll take on anyone’.” This was supported by Electric Hairdressing’s Mark Woolley. “Find someone who can have a positive impact on your team – look for someone who can push things forward,” he advised. “Even during a pandemic anything can happen!”
THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER “I’ve always been passionate about education. My philosophy is that to be the number one salon in a local area you have to be always upgrading and evolving. I recruit for apprentices year-round. We’ve taken on four new apprentices this year. Government support is there [any firm hiring a new apprentice aged 16 to 24 will receive £2,000] so use it. I have a whole page in my brochure dedicated to our apprenticeships, selling it to parents. If they’re thinking of what their kids can do, I want them to think of us.”
PREPARE FOR NEXT YEAR
AS WE TURN our attention to 2021, I wanted to ask business guru and co-founder of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, Hellen Ward, about what she’s learnt in 2020 and how she’s preparing for next year…
Q: How have you balanced
NEED A LITTLE KNOW-HOW TO NAVIGATE AND GROW YOUR BUSINESS? FREDDIE BANKS, GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND FOR KÉRASTASE AND SHU UEMURA ART OF HAIR, IS HERE TO SHARE SOME INSIDER KNOWLEDGE…
day-to-day of running the business while building long-term strategies for your brand? A: I don’t think it’s possible to build long-term strategies for any brand at present. ‘The only way out is through’ has become my mantra. Getting into a position where you can quickly scale up or down is vital for survival. Q: With the power of hindsight, what would you have done diﬀerently in the past few months? A: I would not have done anything differently. Fluid thinking is essential in a crisis like this and being adaptable is key. Q: What will be your key salon driver next year? A: Being 100 per cent responsive to client
behaviours. Examining their behaviour and being willing to change the business model to suit. Q: What are you doing to book clients in for the New Year? Are you oﬀering any new services? A: We will be expanding our range of alternative therapies to include reiki, kundalini cleansing massage and an altogether more holistic approach to our Metrospa offering. Last year we started our home visit service, Richard Ward To Go, so we are well placed to service demand for home visits. Q: How do you plan to motivate your staﬀ and what advice would you oﬀer other salon owners? A: The biggest motivator is job security and they all play their own part in creating that at the moment. We are ensuring the staff can track all their vital KPIs to help them ensure their columns are full and the vital re-book is part of the visit. It’s tough out there and sharing the data with your teams has never been more important. Each element of the salon visit has an impact on a KPI, so making the team aware of this helps them understand why the need to deliver is so critical.
WANT TO KNOW HOW YOU CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS WITH KéRASTASE? CALL 0800 085 4958 OR VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK 16
PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON
Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel ONCE EACH ISSUE of Creative HEAD lands with our subscribers, we speak to our Reader Panel to ask them how their business is going, in partnership with Phorest Salon Software. We combine the results from our Reader Panel with research compiled by Phorest Salon Software, using its client base of salons from across the UK, to gauge what’s going on in the industry and discuss how to solve common problems and challenges. This issue we’re talking about how to maximise retail during the Christmas period.
HOW DO YOU COMPARE? How was business in September compared with August?
PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES
How was business in September 2020 compared with September 2019? SAME 15%
AVERAGE CLIENTS SPEND IN SEPTEMBER (EXC. VAT)
THE MISSION: MAKING RETAIL MATTER AT CHRISTMAS 90% of
respondents offer Christmas gift sets, but of those, 28% believe they have no impact on the bottom line
Top three most impactful methods for retail:
1. Consultation 2. Personal Recommendation 3. Merchandising/ Display
25% sell retail products online
60% sold retail during lockdown
“Clients can sniﬀ non-genuine sales a mile oﬀ. If you believe and take pride in your work and the brand you use, the consultation just ﬂows. Embed the ‘why’ and impart your knowledge. It’s also important to focus on the repurchase. Too many times I’ve seen stylists gain that commitment ﬁrst time, then not follow through.” BEVERLEY BATES, THE RETREAT CREATIVE HEAD
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DID YOU KNOW… RETAIL IS THE SIDEKICK YOU NEED TO PLUG YOUR REVENUE GAP
WHILE IT’S BECOMING increasingly difﬁcult to keep up with changing rules and regulations across the UK, one objective remains clear: continuing to run a successful salon. There are many parts to achieving this, particularly during these unique circumstances, yet there’s one that we must not forget about; retail. Throughout lockdown, while many were making the most of their Amazon Prime delivery, many clients turned to their stylist to purchase products, with the average salon retail sales sky-rocketing 446 per cent. While this number has dropped since lockdown ended, the current average retail sales in a salon has increased by 50 per cent compared with pre-lockdown ﬁgures. The good news doesn’t stop there. Clients who purchase retail in-salon continue to purchase retail regularly, at least ﬁve times a year with an average of 1.5 products per purchase. What does this mean for you? Start your clients on retail – you won’t regret it. You may, however, worry that with less foot trafﬁc in your salon, selling retail won’t make a difference when it comes to plugging the revenue gap. The solution? The Phorest Online Store. The Online Store is fully integrated into your software and syncs directly with your clients and your stock, making retail as easy as pick, click and sell. You can target customers by their product purchasing history with intelligent ﬁltering and sell via social media, SMS and email using the Phorest Marketing Suite.
Abigail Walsh is the regional marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software UK & Ireland. Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware 17
KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE?
LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
DESMOND MURRAY ATHERTON COX
Stick to what you excel at. I’m creative and I hated every minute of the business side of being a salon owner. It choked me creatively, and I’m so glad that I freed myself from its restraints.
Go that extra mile. ‘Good’ just doesn’t cut it – it’s got to blow my mind! I divided my time between hair and photography prior to the lockdown. The time out allowed me to review and reassess my creative resources. I’ve come out the other side with far more creative confidence.
Feel the fear and do it anyway. One of my goals is to focus more on colour and explore all the new technology and techniques behind making my input more awesome. My awakening came at a Matrix global show in Florida earlier this year, where I witnessed some amazing colouring.
Take time out. My life has always been full-on and stays that way until I burn out! But having had this enforced rest has made a difference to both my creative outlook and thirst for knowledge.
“I have my own product line, I’m an extensions specialist with clients travelling from all over the country to see me, and I’m planning a new salon in 2021, which will be my fourth. I’m spinning a lot of plates, and Covid-19 is a constant variable to consider. How can I ensure I keep them spinning successfully without any drop in the quality of service and experience?”
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS Oh boy, Neil, you don’t need a pagelong answer, you need me to write a book! Let’s start with Covid-19. As I write we’re experiencing regional lockdowns, infection rates are rising and there is no real light at the end of the tunnel. Salons are performing like roller coasters. Buying patterns have changed. By the time you read this we will be seeing the after-effects of furlough and you and I will be part of an industry that will probably have built up its biggest debt burden ever. One serious tip I will give you, as you say you are planning a new salon in 2021, is to make doubly sure you have checked all of your numbers. The projections you will have done, both financial and market-wise, will have changed drastically over recent times. Update and review before you commit. I would never say: “Don’t do it”, because there are always opportunities in tough times. But you must have the right ‘product’ and you must have the solution to a problem. Your plate spinning challenge has a simple, two-part solution that is sadly not quite so simple to execute. Part One: Systems. The bigger you grow, the more you need systems to ensure that each of your salons maintain your brand standards. Every part of your business should
NEIL MACLEAN NEIL MACLEAN HAIR STUDIO
have clearly documented systems. A Big Mac is a Big Mac, a Domino’s Mighty Meaty is a Domino’s Mighty Meaty. All are produced with brand consistency because of clearly documented systems. As a highly-skilled craftsman, systems may not drive you, but as you grow you must also become a highlyskilled businessman. Part Two: Team. To maintain your brand you need a highly committed, well rewarded and highly motivated team. You cannot do this alone and you will frazzle yourself if you try. You probably now have even more questions than you started with Neil, and I am always happy for you to contact me directly. Many years ago, I reached the stage where, as my businesses grew, I realised there was stuff I didn’t know. My final tip would be to grow yourself. Learn the things you never learnt and embrace the things that you may find challenging. Reach out like you did with your question. Help is out there. Good luck in 2021.
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email KenW@365Hair.com or tweet @creativeheadmag
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Be onlife and share the now Whether our experience is physical or digital, what matters is sharing it. Be inspired by the real and virtual colors of the new ALFAPARF MILANO Collection.
STAY LEGAL: COVID-19 RULES FOR SALONS IN ENGLAND SOME IMPORTANT rules for salons in England have been made a legal requirement. Individuals and businesses could be fined if they break them. “First, the law now says that the government guidelines for salons and barber shops must be followed,” says NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “Businesses that don’t comply will be fined £10,000 and could be closed down.” Another important legal requirement that applies in England relates to employees who have tested positive, live with someone who has tested positive or have been told to self-isolate. “It is now an offence for an employer to knowingly allow anyone who is self-isolating to come into work,” warns Tina. “Employers will face a fine of at least £1,000.” Employees are also obliged to tell their employer that they are self-isolating. Enforcement is also being stepped up in other parts of the UK. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/four-nations
NHBF to freeze membership fees NHBF MEMBERS will benefit from a freeze on membership fees for 2021. The move is in response to the challenging financial situation many in the hair and beauty sector face as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. “We know that this year has been a huge struggle,” says NHBF director Tina BeaumontGoddard. “That’s why we also gave our members a two-month payment holiday earlier this year. We will continue to support our members in every way we can as 2020 draws to a close and we can hopefully look forward to better times in 2021.” Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/join
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NHBF ANNOUNCES NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVE THE NHBF HAS welcomed Richard Lambert (pictured) as its new chief executive, following the retirement of Hilary Hall at the end of September 2020. Hilary announced her forthcoming retirement at the start of the year, but the Covid-19 pandemic delayed the search for a new chief executive as the NHBF team swung into action to support members under her leadership. Hilary joined the NHBF in 2013 and has since worked tirelessly for members. She leaves an amazing legacy to build on and will be much missed. Her replacement, Richard Lambert, brings a wealth of experience from his previous roles, which include chief executive of the National Landlords Association and the British Woodworking Federation. Before that he worked at the heart of government as a parliamentary civil servant. Richard said: “I am thrilled to be appointed as chief executive for the National Hair & Beauty Federation and look forward to working with such a vibrant, forward-thinking industry. I’m committed to understanding our members and their concerns, shaping the organisation’s services and communications to support them, and creating an open, empowered culture from which we will continue to lobby government for change.”
New government support:
don’t miss out
FOLLOWING THE end of the furlough scheme in October, the government has announced a raft of new measures to help support businesses and the self-employed. These include: • A new Job Support Scheme to protect viable jobs in businesses that are facing lower demand in the winter months due to Covid-19. The government will contribute towards the wages of employees who are working fewer hours than normal. The NHBF supports the latest measures, however is continuing to push for support for all tiers to reflect the current circumstances, see nhbf.co.uk/scheme • Find links to help for salons in Wales and Northern Ireland that have closed under new restrictions at nhbf.co.uk/WalesandNI • Salons and barber shops that deferred their VAT bills will be given the option to pay back in smaller instalments. Self-assessment taxpayers can also benefit from a separate, additional 12-month extension from HMRC on the ‘Time to Pay’ self-service facility. • The self-employed grant scheme has been extended. • Four temporary loan schemes are being extended and more flexible pay-back options are available. Stay up-to-date at nhbf.co.uk/updates and nhbf.co.uk/coronavirus
YOU’VE GOT THE POWER!
THE POWER IS IN YOUR HANDS WITH THESE TWO NEW HAIRDRYERS FROM DIVA PRO. WITH NEXT-GENERATION MOTORS, STYLING IS AN ABSOLUTE BREEZE THERE’S NO TIME TO WASTE during the busy Christmas period so you need tools to help you stay on your A-game. You need Diva Pro Atmos tools with futuristic digital motor technology and incredible power. We’re talking 100,000rpm – they are the supercars of the dryer world. The two new Diva Pro Atmos dryers will blow you away with their capabilities, and they weigh a fraction of typical dryers and produce hardly any noise. Once you’ve tried Atmos, you’ll never look back. Which one revs you up?
DIVA PRO ATMOS DRY
DIVA PRO ATMOS ATOM
WHY YOU’LL LOVE IT:
WHY YOU’LL LOVE IT:
• Three heat settings, three speeds and dedicated cold shot option
• Three heat settings, three speeds and dedicated cold shot option
• Atmos Plus Conditioning System speeds up drying time, improves manageability, increases shine, and reduces frizz and static
• Atmos Plus Conditioning System speeds up drying time, improves hair manageability, increases shine, and reduces frizz
• Includes 6mm and 8mm nozzle magnetic attachments, plus a deep bowl professional diffuser
• Includes two magnetic attachments – 6mm and 8mm nozzles
• Includes EU plug adaptor for travel and a 3m cable
• Includes EU plug adaptor for travel and a 3m cable
The powerful 2,000W Atmos Energy Motor is less than onequarter of the weight compared with typical AC motors and produces signiﬁcantly less motor noise too. The 100,000rpm motor is digitally controlled, ultra-fast at drying and uses less energy than typical motors, keeping things running up to 10-times longer.
The Atmos Atom is your ideal drying tool for long days in the salon, session work abroad or blasting through rows of models at Fashion Week. It’s incredibly lightweight for effortless styling without weighing you down. Enjoy the same high-powered 2,000W Atmos Energy Motor as the Atmos Dry for superior drying results and longevity.
RELISH THE POWER OF ATMOS FROM DIVA PRO IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND. FOR MORE INFORMATION, EMAIL HELPDESK@SALONEUROPE.COM OR VISIT DIVAPRO.CO.UK
THE BIG IDEA
‘BUSINESS AS USUAL is not an option’. So begins the introduction to Salon Re:Source, a sustainable salon toolkit created by Anne Veck and Keith Mellen (pictured above), the duo at the helm of the award-winning Anne Veck salon in Oxford. They believe fervently that the hairdressing industry has the power to make a real difference. “Salons use huge amounts of energy, water, plastic and chemicals, and produce large amounts of waste,” they explain. At the Oxford salon, the team has been working hard for some time to reduce energy usage, lowering the salon’s and their clients’ carbon footprints, reducing waste through more efficient systems and using ethical and sustainable products and packaging where possible. It has been a concerted effort, and now the pair wants to share what they’ve learnt with UK salons to encourage them to do the same. A study by Southampton University Business School showed that if a small, four-seater salon adopted its eco hair and beauty suggestions it would save 24,150kWh of energy, 286,000 litres of water and more than £5,300 a year in cost savings. At Anne Veck Oxford, the team has cut its carbon emissions and energy costs in half, saving £3,000 every year since 2012. That’s £24,000! The toolkit is broken down into three sections: easy, low-cost, quick wins; steps that require a little more effort and cost; and major changes that require bigger investments. For immediate, maximum, positive, world-changing action, there’s a trio of top tips: change from cotton to biodegradable towels and gowns; switch to a green energy provider; and move to sustainable and ethical product suppliers. You can access the toolkit at bit.ly/SalonReSourceUK and start going a little greener.
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Photography by Magic Owen @magicowenphotography
TO SH O P O N L I N E ! OR FIND YOUR NEAREST STORE
1. 075611 Tigi Bed Head Volume Blast £10.50 / 2. M20017/18 Moroccanoil Mini Must-Haves £5.33 / 3. LWA Monu Luxurious Anti-Ageing Winter Duo £11.00 4. HRM17 OPI Shine Bright Nail Lacquer Mini Christmas Cracker £8.70 / 5. 267050 It’s a 10 Holiday Conditioning Trio £18.00 / 6. 1405AC20 Beauty Pro Advent Calendar £32.50 / 7. hara Gel Autumn/Winter Gel Polish £4.99 / 8. 07418 iQ It’s All About You Trio £9.99 / 9. 026428 Alfaparf Semi di Lino Moisture Tin £15.00 10. 15692 Olaplex Holiday Hair Fix £38.00 / 11. 13487 Olaplex Hair Repair Trial Kit £14.00 / 12. M20015 Moroccanoil Holiday Set Hydration £20.72
0345 201 0825
A S TO N A N D F I N C H E R . C O. U K
Photography: Oliver Driver
Wella TrendVision Award 2019 Final
# W E L L AT V A
A VISION OF
2020 COULDN’T STOP THE ICONIC WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARD COMPETITION – ITS EVOLUTION JUST MADE IT EVEN MORE ACCESSIBLE AND MORE EXCITING. NOW MEET THE NAMES WHO STEPPED UP TO THE CHALLENGE AND WON! THERE MIGHT NOT be the legendary celebration at London’s Roundhouse this year, but despite the challenges of 2020, Wella Professionals has gone above and beyond to ensure its iconic competition continued, giving talents across the UK and Ireland the opportunity to showcase just what they can do when given that creative outlet. It was the most accessible TrendVision Award as, for the first time, the competition had a digital format. The result? More than 1,000 photographic entries on Instagram! Next, for the Digital UK Regional & Ireland Heats, 840 competitors had to record a video sharing details about their photographic entry, with 66 making it through to the Final. Now things got serious! Following a digital briefing by Wella Guest Artist judges, competitors were required to create a final new look on a head block or on a model. It was then over to a veritable Who’s Who of more than 40 prestigious judges, each chosen for their hairdressing expertise – think Zoë Irwin, Jayson Gray, Robert Eaton, Warren Boodaghian, Andrew Dunne, Luke Benson, Leonardo Rizzo, Dom Capel and Kerry Hayden. Phew! And these finalists were never alone; Wella was there every step of the way with digital mentoring that included video briefs,
Zoom mentoring sessions and top tips from judges. And the prizes? Exceptional! Yes, winners receive Wella Education packages and trophies, of course. But that’s not all… Gold winners will also enjoy a photoshoot experience to recreate their winning look, as well as a two-day shoot with leading industry photographer Kai Wan, mentored by Wella Guest Artist Darren Ambrose. Together, they will create the TrendVision Award 2020 Winners’ Collection, which will be featured in trade press. And there’s even more – Gold winners are in with the chance to secure a place at the incredible Wella Destination global event, while also receiving digital mentoring in 2021. It’s career rocket fuel! “This is our way of giving back to the industry,” says Allison Hargreaves, national education operations and events manager UK & Ireland for Coty Professional Beauty, “and we are delighted to be offering such incredible inspiring prizes that will genuinely help further careers. I’m certain we have discovered some new stars in the making.” Now, 27 winners from six categories in the UK and Ireland have been crowned, all announced via Wella’s Instagram @wellahairuki. Victory is theirs! Want to know the 18 names who’ve got the vision? Of course you do!
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Photography: Oliver Driver
MASTERS OF THE CRAFT
MEET THE UK WINNERS OF THE 2020 TRENDVISION AWARD
UK COLOUR ARTIST
UK COLOUR SPECIALIST
Stewart Fereday Hairven
UK CRAFT ARTIST
Radoslaw Lewandowski McIntyres
Sophie Butler Hairdressing
EDITORIAL LOOK UK & IRELAND
Stephanie Darbyshire Toni&Guy, Deansgate
Marie Ramminger Dream Hair
MEN’S HAIR UK & IRELAND
Joseph Ferraro Hair
STYLE MASTER UK & IRELAND
Zanders Hair Design
“It’s incredible that Wella Professionals managed to go ahead with the TrendVision Award 2020, despite the challenges of adjusting the whole competition format. The winners should be incredibly proud of their achievement” ROBERT EATON, WELLA PROFESSIONALS AMBASSADOR COLOUR
Aoife Pomphrett Wonderland
Toni&Guy, Sutton Coldfield
Toni&Guy, North Audley St.
TRENDVISION AWARD 2021 – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW! • Entries open 10 February 2021 – get that date in your diary! • Enter via Instagram – it’s easy and accessible! • The Xposure student competition will now be part of the TrendVision Award with its own category • Entries close 10 March 2021 • Photographic winners announced 31 March 2021
Have you got what it takes for the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award competition in 2021? Contact the Wella Events Team on email@example.com or visit wella.co.uk/trendvision @WellaUKI
#WellaTVA #TrendVision2020 CREATIVE HEAD
WE’RE ON TO THE HOME STRAIGHT FOR CHRISTMAS, AND COLOUR REMAINS A HOT TOPIC AS WE FACE A HIGHLY UNUSUAL SEASON… IN ASSOCIATION WITH
A FRESH TAKE
In need of a burst of inspiration? Experience the perfect introduction to Wella’s newest product launch with ‘Discover Color Fresh Masks’. This free, 30-minute online webinar is presented by Wella’s expert technical educators, and gives you a glimpse of the colourful new line-up. Discover what type of client the Color Fresh Masks are most suited for, see real results and learn what a great new retailing opportunity they represent for your salon. Go to education.wella.com to view the webinar. Alternatively, try the new Color Fresh Masks out for yourself as part of the Colour Genius and Insta-Ready Colour education courses at the London, Manchester or Dublin Studios. Both courses offer the chance to push your creative boundaries and experiment with the full portfolio of colours, while building up your knowledge and confidence in creative colour techniques. For course information, dates, and online booking, go to education.wella.com.
THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…
THE WIDER INDUSTRY. SUZANNE ALPHONSE EVERY MONTH A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT EXAMINES AN ISSUE WHICH AFFECTS THEIR TIME IN YOUR CHAIR SPEAKS OUT ABOUT HOW YOU CAN PROVE TO YOUR CLIENTS THAT YOUR EXPERTISE IS WORTH “A big challenge I have as a colourist is getting the artistry of what I do across to the client – I’m really up against home hair colour, there’s great technology now and it’s so convenient. Offering something simple like an all-over regrowth colour really puts us in a tricky position. Does the client value that service enough to take hours out of their day and spend £100? A service like Luxelights is perfect. It can offer that coverage of greys or blending, depending on their needs, to create that youthful element to their colour. Before, clients liked to see lots of highs and lows, lots of contrast, but that really youthful look comes from seamless, professional blends. The new Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals shades give such a fantastic, natural colour result – enough for people to notice that someone looks great, that something’s changed, rather than ‘wow, you’ve had your hair coloured’. My clientele has had a massive shift towards natural-looking colour – I think everyone’s a little afraid of if we go into another lockdown, what that grow out will look like. “With Luxelights I can manage that regrowth and, with an extra 10 minutes, I can place some foils to develop seamlessly, gloss at the end, and give clients something different that they just can’t get from a box colour. The colour is personalised, so it’s also harder for them to go to another salon or colourist and helps to cement their relationship with me. I can offer them something different every time they come in without them having to spend that extra time, but they still see the artistry of what I’m doing.”
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SHELFIE TIME The launch of the new Color Fresh Mask is so exciting! With 11 products across two ranges, Color Fresh Masks are so much more than a conditioning mask. There’s no need for a skin allergy test, they can be applied on the day in-salon, and also used to maintain professional colour between colouring services. The seven natural shades give a visible colour refresh and enhanced shine, while the four vibrant shades offer a visible colour transformation that will fade true to tone. It’s a great way for blondes to experiment for the weekend or a special event, or for colourshy clients who want to try a colour before committing. The incredible conditioning formula leaves hair feeling smoother and looking healthy. My clients and I love them!”
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ZOË IRWIN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT @ZOEIRWINHAIR
WHY I’M WELLA I’ve worked with Wella products and ranges for more than 25 years now and I still love the company as much as I did on day one. Wella Professionals has always been the perfect fit for me and my salon. Over the years not only has Wella developed amazing products, but the in-house education we have received has also enabled us to really grow the Medusa group. We’ve embarked on everything from the industry-leading Wella Master Colour Expert programme to in-house education on homecare. Wella really has delivered for Medusa. I’m also a big fan of the Wella Studios – they make in-person courses really accessible to all hairdressers. “During these uncertain times Wella has been a true partner constantly finding ways to engage with us. I’m looking forward to many more years of working with the best product company around and seeing what the next 25 years brings us, as Wella never stands still.” COLIN MCANDREW, MEDUSA, EDINBURGH @COLIN_MEDUSA
KEEP YOUR CLIENTS HAPPY WITH EFFECTIVE AND EFFICIENT COLOUR SERVICES. THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS EXPRESS HIGHLIGHTS MASTERCLASS, FEATURING WELLA PROFESSIONALS AMBASSADOR COLOUR, ROBERT EATON, IS A SHORT ’N’ SWEET DEMONSTRATION ON HOW TO USE HIGHLIGHTS TO INCREASE PROFITABILITY AND SAVE YOU TIME DURING BUSY PERIODS. BEST OF ALL, IT’S TOTALLY FREE FOR ALL HAIRDRESSERS. GO TO EDUCATION.WELLA.COM TO FIND THIS AND LOTS OF FREE INSPIRATIONAL AND PRACTICAL EDUCATION, FROM COLOUR AND STYLING TO PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE AND BUSINESS SKILLS @wellahairuki #WellaColour #MakeChange CREATIVE HEAD
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Wella Professionals 27
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COLOUR FOR ALL OCCASIONS. COLOUR FOR ALL CLIENTS. COLOUR THAT CARES FOR HAIR. THIS TRIPLE THREAT IS WHY COLOURISTS ACROSS THE WORLD TRUST WELLA PROFESSIONALS KOLESTON PERFECT ME+ 28
need to rely on antiquated formulas, meaning clients are a staggering 60-times less likely to develop an allergy to colour.* ME+ and its partner innovation Pure Balance Technology are exclusive to the Koleston Perfect line. In combination, they have more than 20 patents and are proven to deliver vibrant, rich colour with less damage, use after use.* The secret behind Pure Balance Technology’s effectiveness is its ability to minimise the formation of cell-damaging free radicals. The result? Better balance of tone from root to tip, better control of depth and up to 100 per cent grey coverage.* Let these Wella Professionals colourists share what they love about Koleston Perfect ME+ and be inspired…
“Now more than ever I can absolutely guarantee I will achieve the results I desire using Koleston Perfect ME+. I love its versatility and that you can use it on anyone. It’s our ‘go to’ product in the salon as the choices and combinations are endless. Our salon is lucky to be able to stock the whole range and I am spoilt for choice! I particularly love the new Pure Natural shades. I am so excited to see what Wella Professionals creates next.”
COLOUR ME SOPHIE B “The sassy scientists at Wella HQ have brought us the most revolutionary and innovative permanent hair colour ever! Koleston Perfect ME+ is so rich and luxurious, it’s an absolute pleasure to use. My favourite shade is 88/02. It’s a total game-changer – so rich but so ultra-cool. I love using it as a root retouch on balayage. Koleston Perfect ME+ is so much more than tubes of permanent colour... It’s a colourist’s dream!”
JOSEPH HANNAH SALON “I love the way Koleston Perfect ME+ mixes, it’s easier to apply than ever and the coverage is incredible. The new cooler Pure Natural shades are great, and I can always find something in the range to suit everyone’s skin tone. The range allows me to be truly creative and unafraid to mix. It’s great how Wella Professionals brings out new shades all the time – it’s so clever with shades, it’s always just what you want.”
Dean Vinning & Dean Robertson SIXTH SENSE SALON @sixthsensesalon
“We specialise in creative and corrective colour, so it’s important to us to have the very best product. When Wella released the Koleston Perfect ME+ range and we started testing clients and using the product, we were amazed with its versatility. The Pure Balance Technology has the capability to give an even result on hair with multiple levels of porosity while maintaining excellent hair health.”
It’s only natural
There’s a shade for everyone with Koleston Perfect ME+, and Wella Professionals is constantly formulating new tones and shades to keep you in demand from trend-focused clients. The Pure Naturals range has expanded to give you even more choice for grey coverage. The new Resistant Cool Cover shades deliver 100 per cent coverage with intense cool tones for an anti-brass effect, which mix perfectly with the other Pure, Ultra and Resistant Cover tones. Choose from 88/02, 77/02, 66/02 and 55/02.
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*Versus previous Koleston Perfect. Valid for Koleston Perfect with Pure Balance Technology. Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. Always perform an allergy alert test 48 hours before each colouration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult wella.co.uk. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colourants, you should not colour. ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand.
WITH SO MUCH incredible technology out there, it’s astounding how many brands have stuck to old-fashioned permanent colour formulas, utilising nearly identical molecules and active ingredients (such as PPD and PTD) as those devised in the 1800s. Sure, there were tweaks over the decades, but clients continue to develop potentially serious allergies to PPD and PTD – both known sensitisers. Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ took more than seven years to develop but it was worth the wait, emerging as one of the biggest game-changers in hair colour. The patented scientific breakthrough was the result of more than 3,000 test formulations, and opened colourists’ eyes. It removes the
Discover how Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ can revolutionise your colour work. Explore the potential for your colour business at education.wella.com @wellahairuki #WellaColour #MakeChange 29
luxelights upgrade your root touch-up
to a colour with luxurious dimensions, subtle lights and soft shadows.
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Grey coverage just got cooler RESISTANT COOL COVER SHADES FOR
COOL, GREY COVERAGE
FIND OUT MORE: Talk to your Account Manager/Education Team or visit education.wella.com uk.wellastore.com | @wellahairuki | #WellaColour
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Watch Learn Love to create
THE TEACHINGS A NEW VIDEO TUTORIAL SERIES FROM CREATIVE HEAD
Commercial looks Original inspiration From one hair pro to the next
NEW ON SITE
Josh Denham Accessorised beachy waves Stephanie Kocielski Every-girl blow-dry
WATCH NOW AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THE-TEACHINGS TheTeachings_EVA.indd 2
CREATIVE HEAD PRESENTS
THE ROOT OF IT
A COLLECTION OF PODCASTS IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TREATWELL
NEW EPISODES AVAILABLE NOW
SERIES ONE: LISTEN TO WHAT THE MAN SAID Opinion-driven exchanges about the modern male client and what makes him tick
SERIES TWO: THEN AND NOW Visionary salon owners on being the boss and the changes they’ve seen across the years
SERIES THREE: THE EDITOR ASKS Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage probes creative and business experts on exactly what they do and the industries in which they do it
Listen at creativeheadmag.com/podcasts or search ‘The Root of It’ on all major podcast platforms
MAKING THE CUT
SLATE Hair Education specialises in bite-sized advanced cutting courses that are affordable for all
TO BE A successful hairstylist you need two things: a vision of the work you want to create; and a repertoire of skills that will allow you to realise that vision. SLATE Hair Education – a new academy in London’s Soho – has been set up with the specific purpose of giving you the skills you need to master hair and unlock your full potential. To help you create your vision. The brainchild of Gregory Charalambides and Michael Pitsillides (both ex-Sassoon), SLATE specialises in advanced cutting skills delivered in short courses by highly-experienced educators and in small class sizes – never more than seven students per teacher. This intensive, hands-on approach is the best and most effective way to learn, enabling you to cut faster and more accurately than you did before and therefore elevate your clientele. Whether you’re a newlyqualified stylist looking to refine your skills or a highly-experienced
stylist looking to refresh, you’ll leave the SLATE Academy feeling stronger, more confident and more inspired. And there’s more. Fully aware that hairdressing training is often too expensive for young hairdressers, SLATE is on a mission to deliver education and guidance at an affordable price. The team has put together programmes that deliver 12 days of education a year at just £175 a day, plus affordable payment plans to help spread the financial load – extraordinary! It’s even got free step-by-step videos recorded live on their social channels – each one teaching a new cut while the SLATE teams answer questions from its global audience. In an uncertain world, your hairdressing skills are your most precious assets, opening up new creative and financial opportunities at all stages of your career. SLATE Hair Education can make a difference in just two days, so book now to secure your brighter future!
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Three courses of two days each Guiding you to become a confident cutter by teaching the core of all haircuts.
Two-day hands-on course Gives you the structure to perfect hair, with no room to hide from imbalance.
Three courses of two days each Focusing on design so you can create more dynamic and modern tailored cuts.
Two-day hands-on course Curly hair has its own structure. Learn the secrets to creating exceptional shapes.
Two-day hands-on course Creative is about becoming an artist. Learn how to break a haircut in just the right way.
Two-day hands-on course Stylists of all levels can use this class to learn the art of carving hair with a razor.
WATCH FOR FREE
SLATE is offering opportunities for third-year apprentices to observe classes for free. Send an enquiry at slatehair.com Gregory Charalambides, co-founder of SLATE Hair Education
Michael Pitsillides, co-founder of SLATE Hair Education
TO BOOK A COURSE VISIT SLATEHAIR.COM. FOLLOW THE SLATE TEAM @SLATEHAIREDUCATION TO WATCH CLASSES AND SHOWS IN REAL TIME AND GET AN INSIGHT INTO HOW THEY TEACH
There’s a great big question mark over everything – how can you run a business with confidence when so much is unknown? Prepare for what you can, and be ready to face the future. Creative HEAD is here to help, the fourth emergency service in your time of uncertainty, with a toolkit for 2021.
Let’s make sure you’re…
MONEY MAKES THE WORLD TURN Your savings have taken a hit, and cash flow is a weekly, if not daily, struggle. We saw an exhausting Christmas-in-July situation, with clients booking in droves, but then silence followed for many, there’s a lack of Christmas parties to bank on and some salons closed due to regional lockdowns. If cash flow is a huge concern, Henry Ejdelbaum, managing director of AIMS Accountants for Business, recommends a saving mindset: “Ask an accountant to do a cash and savings review and analysis of your business. They will charge you for this service, but it may save you money in the long run as you’ll understand better where and how your money is spent.” Booking software and looking at your turnover forecast are also important. He says: “If your turnover is likely to fall below the VAT
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threshold, you may want to consider reviewing your VAT registration. You may be better off not being registered.” Brian MacMillan, salon director at F&M Hairdressing, agrees that money management is key to survival. “Cash is king. We have actively saved money since the day we opened,” he says. Each month Brian and his accountant adjust and assess. “We’re focused on strengthening our financial position over the next 12 months, having used the majority of our fund throughout the closure in 2020,” he explains. He points to minimising stock, raising prices and promoting affordable express services to get clients spending again. Aston & Fincher and other wholesalers should be on your checklist too – keep an eye out for products that could save or make you serious money, from Christmas collections to deals on colour.
The colour clients to target
Creative director, Lockonego “Like everyone else, we had a mad July and August. Spaces were like gold dust, and then it dropped off a cliff. We want to try and minimise those peaks and troughs. All our staff have been prepped to give their clients a journey up until Christmas, to get a minimum of two appointments out of them between now and then, maybe a maintenance gloss and then highlights again later. We’re also skin testing as many of our cuts as possible to try and smooth that transition. Then we’re creating a Lockonego membership card for existing clients. The standard card costs £100 a year, for a percentage off services and retail and entry into monthly prize draws, while our Black Card offers more. “Our other idea is for new clients: on their first visit they’ll get 10 per cent off, 20 per cent on their second visit, then double again for 40 per cent off their third visit. Hopefully within those three visits, you’ve made them a permanent client. We’ve never really done discounts but we’re going into a totally different set of rules this Christmas, so I think our own rules need to be checked too.”
BLONDES ARE THE KEY CLIENTS TO BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE. JAMES HORN, SALON DIRECTOR OF MD BEAUTY LOUNGE IN GLASGOW, SHARES THREE IDEAS TO HELP • Why not do a small root tap with your toner to create a soft shadow and give longevity to your client’s global blonde coverage? • A balayage look is a great transition for those looking to soften old highlights. Work with global root stretches to create depth. • Offer a gloss and blow out for those that may have extended appointments. Guests may be extending their time between visits, but this is prolonging their existing service.
Owner, KAM Hair and Body Spa
DON’T GET TO COLOUR CLIENTS MAKE SURE YOUR EATE A JOURNEY… T A TRIP TO YOU. CR CHRISTMAS WITHOU If you’re looking to start afresh, Zalon Colour Remover is a brilliant upsell. Its low cost (about £7.20, including VAT, per application) can net you a cool £40 easily for the service. It takes around 30 minutes, during which you can get on with mixing and prep work. Wella Professionals’ new Color Fresh Masks are a quick, effective colour option in-salon that can also be used between appointments to deposit colour and maintain hair health simultaneously. Talk up the conditioning side of colour; too many clients still think that colour is flat-out bad for their hair. The new demi-permanent
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“We’re seeing clients prolonging their return to the salon after getting used to leaving their hair for long periods during lockdown. With safety measures for the festive period still uncertain, colour packages are a great way to get clients to book in more regularly and take advantage of an offer. We are offering colour regrowth, a deep treatment and a blow-dry with a graduate stylist for only £40. We’re also doing bundles featuring balayage with a homecare shampoo and conditioner or a deep-conditioning treatment in the salon. The total price is discounted, but we’re still getting a decent rate for our time – we are intending to run a limited amount of these each week to help fill columns and gaps. “Bundling services can help to fill in a significant amount of time in a column, rather than just an hour that a cut and blow-dry fills. It’s also good for the client, who can get pampered at a great price.”
Crema XG range from Paul Mitchell Professional Color is vegan, paraben-free, no ammonia and creates a deeply conditioned finish. Or look to the new KeraLuminous and KeraBrilliance ranges from smooth sensations Keratin Complex. These new formulations are enhanced with keratin to strengthen and smooth even as it colours. L’Oréal Professionnel is introducing three new speedy services to its salons designed as interim colour solutions, while keeping clients engaged in the colour journey. Halo Highlights offers a pop of brightness, Gloss and Go gives neat neutralisation in a flash, while Boost Your Balayage helps to refresh the colour in half the time.
SKILLS AND THRILLS
Jennifer Linton and Jaye McDonald Co-owners, Linton & Mac
“We’re making the most of Instagram right now, especially the new feature Reels, to let the client feel the vibe of the salon and team members through video. We ﬁnd it beneﬁcial to showcase what the client will expect when they visit us. A lot of clients are still anxious about the new normal and keeping in line with the rules. We make sure we’re clear on what they can expect. “Social media is a great way to show clients what services are on offer and to be totally transparent with what they should expect cost-wise. Being open and honest with this will stop any awkward moments when it comes to the bill. Instagram Stories are great for putting up any last-minute cancellations, too! “Don’t just focus on your own Instagram either; check out what hair educators have got on their accounts in terms of potential training videos for the team to get creative on dolls’ heads. Use any white space to your advantage to brush up on some new skills.”
Salon Smart Live is now available on-demand, in case you missed the big day. For £35 you get to watch it all again and make notes from some of the best in the business, as many times as you like for up to 12 months. Prefer to listen as you cut and colour? Our new podcast The Root of It features frank and honest conversations about all aspects of the industry, from key players including John Vial, Jody Taylor and Mark Maciver. Freelancers aren’t left out either; look out for Self/Styled Sundays, a Zoom event where you can tap into practical advice as well as money off at Aston & Fincher’s online shop. Visit creativeheadmag.com for more information on them all. The move to digital education in lockdown has now seen some of the largest names hone their offerings to provide better-thanever access to top tier names and courses. As an industry it can be incredibly difﬁcult scheduling in training… and that was before Covid-19. L’Oréal Professionnel has a new solution for this – Practical E-learnings called Getting Started on its Access platform. Keen for a fresh challenge and the opportunity to express yourself and meet other independent artists? Then the Matrix Colour Collective could be just what you’re looking for. Whether in-salon or a freelancer working independently, the Colour Collective welcomes all hairdressers and is supported by Matrix education and its professional colour and haircare portfolio. And now you can become part of the world of Sassoonline, as the iconic education brand unveils a new digital platform. It offers 24/7 access to the Sassoon Academy; the entire Sassoon Education Library; exclusive courses and events (with savings on any online course) and access to the global Sassoon Academy Team. It even has a virtual salon apprentice programme.
Post those transformations! Spread the word through testimonials! People need to be reminded about you – there’s a lot of things going on in the world, but hair is an everyday accessory. It’s time to remind clients to take time for themselves… and to give that time to you. Cimone Cheveux, a freelance stylist based in Berkshire, has been dedicating more time to creating hair for shoots to showcase her skills. But ﬁnished looks aren’t the only things being broadcast on social media. “Clients like to see that you’re current and relatable,” she explains. “Being present and engaging on these platforms really can work wonders for your business. TikTok is fun and you’re able to show another side of your business with dances or games with the team, or behind the scenes in the salon and on shoots.”
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All the right moves
*Does not remove bleach as bleach permanently alters the natural pigment of the hair
CORRECT ANY COLOUR WITH COMPLETE CONFIDENCE AND ADD EXTRA SERVICE INCOME TO YOUR BUSINESS, WITH ZALON COLOUR REMOVER FROM HAIR TOOLS YOU NEVER KNOW what you’ll be faced with when your client sits WHY STYLISTS LOVE ZALON COLOUR REMOVER down in your chair. Sure, there are plenty of clients who don’t stray too far from their regular highlights or trims. But with lockdown box dyes, “Zalon Colour working-from-home vivid colour experiments and trend-obsessed Remover lifted a guests who want what KKW or Kylie Jenner have just unveiled on “I love that couple of shades to Instagram, there are plenty of clients who present that bit more the hair condition her natural colour, of a challenge. It’s understandable if colour correction leaves isn’t compromised – I’ve perfectly even and “Zalon is you feeling a little anxious. You need to be ready for anything… achieved excellent results mega glossy. It felt the best hair Be prepped to prime the perfect blank canvas for whatever each time. Being able to like completely colour remover colour straight after too different hair!” your client desires with Zalon Colour Remover. This clever on the market. The is a big win” results are fantastic cleanser, available from Hair Tools, removes all oxidised hair MAJESTIC HAIR and there is no THE LITTLE colour and delivers around three to four levels of lift. The bleachBOUTIQUE compromise of the HAIRMAID free and ammonia-free colour remover means you can offer a healthy, quick and stress-free colour removal* in three easy steps and in a development time of 30 minutes, with no damage. That also means it can be used as many times as you need, and hair can be coloured immediately after the process. Oh, and with a vegan formula that contains argan oil, she’ll adore the feel of her nourished and moisturised hair, too. And what’s even better? This is a service that costs you so little – we’re talking about £7.20 including VAT per application, yet you can charge about £40 for the professional treatment. And with the 30-minute development time, you could see another client, too! Picture the smile on your client’s face (we can see past those masks!) when you deliver the colour she didn’t think was possible. Think of that feeling of satisfaction, knowing that you created that fabulous ﬁnish… with Zalon Colour Remover’s help, of course.
KICK THE FEAR OF COLOUR CORRECTION AND DELIVER A FABULOUS-LOOKING FUTURE WITH ZALON COLOUR REMOVER, AVAILABLE NOW FROM HAIR TOOLS. CALL OR VISIT WWW.HAIRTOOLS.CO.UK. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ZALON PRO LONDON, VISIT ZALONLONDON.COM 41
The wealth of self Welcome a new vegan haircare range that empowers self-care and self-expression â€“ My Hair. My Canvas. by Alterna 42
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EVERYTHING CHANGED IN 2020, and no-one saw it coming. The impact of world events has seen consumers now more acutely aware of the importance of self-care, more proud of their individuality and more focused on self-expression. Help your clients build upon those foundations… Alterna, the luxury haircare name that eschews harsh chemicals and additives, is celebrating the self with My Hair. My Canvas., an entirely new, 100 per cent vegan product range. Building upon the belief that haircare is self-care, My Hair. My Canvas. is here to help empower the Millennial to define beauty on their own terms. Versatile, unique and indulgently playful, this line-up has everything to prime the ‘canvas’, to create the look and to extend that style to see them through whatever they want to do. Self-care is the new luxury; clients are increasingly ingredients-conscious, clean beauty-minded, ever-learning and proudly unfinished – you’re helping fuel and craft a work in progress. These bottles, pumps and tubes are delivering little luxurious moments of self-care, full of transformative textures, uplifting aromas and endless opportunities to unleash whatever your client wants to express. My Hair. My Canvas. is all about maximum impact on hair with minimal impact on the environment, formulated without sulphate surfactants, phthalates and synthetic colour. This is a modern take on style, with sustainable packaging alongside high performance and high standards of purity and efficacy. The secret ingredient is an infusion of sustainably harvested botanical caviar, known to help improve moisture retention and smooth the cuticle to add bounce, shine and strength. These vegan formulas elevate haircare from a routine to a serene ritual, but one that’s also fun and effortless for completely customisable, beautiful finishes. The tools are in their hands across three My Hair. My Canvas. line-ups. Prime – prepare your canvas with lathers that are luxurious and invite you to linger. Create – develop your look with transformative textures that are surprising and indulgent. Extend – complete the style with mists that marvel and make everything come together, just how you want it to. Now more than ever, it’s important to take care of ourselves and elevate what might once have been seen as a daily chore into something more indulgent, transformative; moments of pleasure that empower us to face the day, whatever it might have in store…
Want to empower your clients and help them express themselves fully? Discover more about My Hair. My Canvas. from Alterna – visit alternahaircare.eu or firstname.lastname@example.org @alternahaircare @alternaeurope CREATIVE HEAD
Owner, Percy at Percy & Reed
Chair renting may seem like a big winner, but Simon Harris, founder of Mysalonmanager, has seen many businesses burned by it. “The problem is that historically ‘self-employed’ hairdressers who work on a percentage commission split are not recognised as self-employed by HMRC, as under these circumstances the relationship is viewed as one of employer and employee rather than an independent contractor,” he warns. But if you do want to rent out your empty chairs, Mysalonmanager members have exclusive access to a calculator that produces a ﬁnancial model that works for both the chair renter and salon owner, and keeps you compliant with regulations. “It can be an additional revenue stream for a salon that has spare capacity for stylists whom they have been unable to recruit under an employed model. We also can produce a legal chair renter’s agreement personalised for each situation,” he adds. We’ve seen salons branching out and trying something new, and reaping the attention and beneﬁts from it. Rob Czlapka, owner of RCNQ in Manchester, was happy to showcase the recent wigmaking course he’s been on to broaden his repertoire of skills to offer clients. Whether it’s investing in extensions, in wig services, in beauty services – if you can’t use your space as you did before, how else can you make it work for you?
“READY is our new service that’s all about bringing our expertise direct to clients’ homes. We’re known for our creative colour and cuts, and that creative aspect is the most important thing when something is more bespoke for clients. What we’re offering is a platform, a proper booking service for home visits with a much more personal touch, and a lot of intelligence. Clients don’t necessarily know who they’re booking in with, but they know the level of service they’re going to get, they’re buying into the brand. “It all started from talking to a couple of assistants last July, and remembering that when I was an assistant you were always basically juggling between trying to do amazing creative work and paying bills. Stylists are signed off by us – and it’s as much attitude as abilities – and they can go on READY to enter the hours they would like to work. Clients get access to creatives from a world they probably wouldn’t be able to tap into normally… someone to come to your house who might have been doing a pop star’s hair the other night! Everyone will be vetted, capable of doing the basics as well as the creative. READY has evolved from its original idea, but it’s key now that there are people that don’t want to come into the salon. So, from a business point of view, it seems sensible to offer to our clients. We also want the whole thing to be as green as possible, so we’ve paired up with an amazing electric scooter company, too.”
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RETAIL THAT ROCKETS
Alterna My Hair. My Canvas., Corinne accessories and Parlux Aylon
Retail gives clients that salon serotonin boost between appointments. Clients may not be coming in as regularly, but by keeping them stocked with mood-boosting products that make them feel great, you’ll be on their mind. Unique brands that feel luxe are great for clients who love to be in-the-know, especially ones that are tapping into the change in consumer priorities. Alterna’s My Hair. My Canvas. range is a case in point. It focuses on the growing interest in self-care and selfexpression, with clean, vegan formulas for those who are increasingly ingredients-conscious while still being fun and playful. What it has done is feed into the image and conversation that what clients once saw as routine – such as washing their hair – can be seen as a ritual, something to enjoy as a moment of calm for themselves. Repositioned in this way, hair products become something else, a way to enable clients to find and relish those special moments to themselves. Need a hand with retail and an online presence? Aveda’s A-Commerce platform does all the hard work for you by helping you create a site that looks
Owner, Rainbow Room International, Royal Exchange Square “20 for 2020 is aimed at models being used by new stylists, but it’s open to all clients too. They book three appointments, with a colour service on their second visit and a cut eight weeks after the first visit’s cut. The total cost is £60, payable in three payments, one on each visit. In return the salon asks the client to share their experience on social media. This supports not just our new stylists but those in our community who are finding things tougher. We’re trying something different that clients can afford.”
like your brand, but with Aveda managing all of the backend fulfilment and related costs, including shipping and handling. You earn a cool 10 per cent commission on all retail sales, and trials in the US have seen huge increases in sales. With in-person socialising at a minimum, retail and gifting becomes that link to connect with people. Showcase your knowledge and connections with brands that will strike a real chord with clients, that they simply wouldn’t hear about otherwise. We’d bet every client has a hairdryer, but do they have a hairdryer with an antibacterial treatment imbued in it? The new Parlux Alyon in Night Blue, available from Hair Tools, contains an anti-microbial finish enriched with silver powder, and includes both a MagicSense Diffuser and two precision nozzles. Or harness the power of a supercar for a speedy blow-out at home, thanks to the new Diva Pro Atmos Dry and Atmos Atom hairdryers. Think about retail beyond the obvious salon fare, too. Corrine hair accessories, a cult Swedish brand, has also just landed in the UK, and its bendable leather hair ties, leather bows and glittering barrettes have that ultimate cool-girl, effortless appeal.
No man (or business) is an island; it’s important to invest in your staff’s wellbeing. Company mood and energy comes from the top down, and as things get tougher it’s crucial to offer support where you can. “2020 has been a challenging year to say the least, and your team may not be firing on all cylinders at the moment,” says Simon Hill, owner of SESH Hairdressing. “We need to communicate and reach out to our teams. At SESH we host an annual wellness week to highlight the importance and focus we put on mental health.” John McIntyre, co-owner of McIntyres salons in Dundee, knew that they couldn’t expect their team to go back to how things were pre-lockdown. “We’ve split our two salon teams in two, so that one team does a six-hour morning shift and one does the afternoon, but we’re open six days a week,” he explains. “I couldn’t expect our team members to come back from furlough and work 12-hour days, they’d be on their knees. Everyone’s working so hard. This way we’re also able to open earlier and close later – which clients love – and socially distance with half as many people in the salon, so it’s been a brilliant strategy.” The Creative HEAD Collective is a new type of membership club for salon owners, which offers salons support and practical assistance on all sorts of issues. In partnership with leading Employment Assistance Programme provider Care first, The Collective covers everything from legal and financial matters to everyday practical and emotional support. For more details, visit creativeheadmag.com/store
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ENTER THE VIRTUAL WORLD OF SASSOONLINE AND RELISH THE JOURNEY AS WELL AS THE DESTINATION
BRAVE NEW WORLD
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
TRAVEL ON PLANES, trains and automobiles may be somewhat limited right now, but you can still take an unforgettable journey… Start an education odyssey without leaving your home, your salon or your school, with membership to Sassoonline. The new Sassoon Digital Platform is loaded with education experiences, all in one central hub, to make access to truly iconic education more accessible than ever before.
WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF SASSOONLINE SASSOON EDUCATION has always been based on the continuous training provided to the Sassoon Team, and has supplied that stellar launchpad for literally thousands of hair talents around the globe. Now, with Sassoonline, you have access to a platform that will give you the opportunity to experience the latest Sassoon collections, or deep dive into the Sassoon archive, or maybe discuss the fundamentals of technique one-to-one with dedicated instructors… Sassoonline makes it ALL possible. Delivered in a variety of formats – live virtual classrooms, pre-recorded streaming content and interactive bespoke instructions just to whet your appetite. All of the content is filmed with the passion, commitment and technical excellence that has cemented Sassoon globally as the ultimate in hairdressing education – contemporary, relevant and forward-thinking. This is the exciting, inspiring world of Sassoon, at your fingertips thanks to your own dedicated Sassoonline portal. A subscription is a passport to another world; authentic Sassoon education such as its landmark ABC series in cut, colour and men’s hair sits alongside step-by-step material from iconic salon collections. Live and pre-recorded streaming content under a wealth of subjects is there too – you
could be backstage with the International Creative Team at a collection launch, listening in on a discussion of the heritage of Sassoon or even getting up close to the action with ‘Sassoon Detail’. Can you picture yourself now in a virtual, bespoke hands-on class with Mark Hayes? You can make that a reality… Demonstrations, lectures, presentations, conversations… Sassoonline will take you on a creative journey that simply no one else can, for just $19 (approx. £14) a month or $190 (approx. £140) if you buy a year. That gives you 24/7 access to the Sassoon Academy, as well as the entire Sassoon Education Library; 10 per cent savings on any online course alongside preferred pricing on Sassoon-branded books and merchandise; exclusive courses and events as well as access to the global Sassoon Academy Team. You’ll also belong to a real community – and the community board is the perfect place for you to connect within the platform. And if you’re managing the education of others, there’s an innovative option to ensure even the newest members of the team are receiving high quality training. The virtual salon apprentice programme will level up the most inexperienced into true talents of tomorrow to build your business further.
SCHOOL’S IN SESSION WITH SASSOON CONNECT
Let Sassoon connect its school with yours, with access to some of the best instructors in the world with Sassoon Connect, the programme that brings the iconic Sassoon methods directly to you. There’s also virtual teacher training to elevate your team’s skills. Sassoon Connect now offers a full school curriculum, there are 36 learning modules and students receive a globally recognised Sassoon certificate. Oh, and Sassoon Connect offers free access to Sassoonline to all students for a whole year!
TO SIGN UP TO BECOME A MEMBER, VISIT SASSOONONLINE.COM, OR REGISTER FOR AN ONLINE COURSE AT EDSERVICES@SASSOONGLOBAL.COM @SASSOON ACADEMYOFFICIAL CREATIVE HEAD
TANGLE TEEZER’S SPARKLING FESTIVE COLLECTION IS HERE TO LIGHT UP YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIRCARE ROUTINE. ALL DRESSED UP AND READY TO GO, THESE ON-TREND STYLERS ARE THE PERFECT PRESENT THE FESTIVE SEASON may not be chock-full of parties and social events this year, but good style never goes out of fashion. The gifting season is more important than ever to recoup funds lost from party appointments, as the focus shifts to sending gifts in lieu of in-person catch-ups and celebrations. The new, limited edition shades and eﬀects of Tangle Teezer’s core products are sure to bring light into anyone’s life. Whether you’re sending them home with your clients to add sparkle to their styling
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between appointments, or packaged up as the ideal self-care gift for loved ones, Tangle Teezer has you covered. With Tangle Teezer, the power is in the patented teeth technology that makes each brush a hit. The two-tiered teeth ﬂex and adapt for all hair types and help to make styling an eﬀortless experience, no matter what ﬁnish you’re going for. Every Tangle Teezer has been designed to provide expert detangling, helping to minimise breakage and damage, and leave hair smooth and glossy – at Christmas, New Year and beyond!
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THESE LIMITED EDITION, ON-TREND LAVENDER AND PISTACHIO HUES ARE A SWEET TREAT FOR CHRISTMAS
THE ORIGINAL AND THE WET DETANGLER IRIS SPARKLE
The iconic The Wet Detangler and The Original hairbrushes are garnished in icy pale purple and lilac glitter for a luxurious, fashionforward look. The Wet Detangler has patented two-tiered teeth technology with plenty of ﬂex to be extra kind to wet hair – it’s ideal for distributing a conditioning treatment evenly through the hair! The Original hairbrush is the OG when it comes to stress-free brushing. The long teeth detangle and remove knots, while the short teeth smooth the cuticle to leave hair smooth and tangle-free.
THE COMPACT STYLER SMASHED PISTACHIO
Following the success of last year’s glistening Smashed Holo designs, 2020 brings a delicate pistachio refresh to the style. The high-shine kaleidoscope eﬀect on the beloved Compact Styler makes it the perfect stocking ﬁller or Secret Santa gift this festive season. Small but mighty, the Compact Styler includes a removable, protective cover to protect the teeth, so you can pop it in your bag and style on-the-go. Smooth and add shine anytime, anywhere.
MAKE YOUR FESTIVE SEASON SALES SPARKLE WITH THESE LIMITED EDITION DESIGNS FROM TANGLE TEEZER. FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 020 7274 6128 OR VISIT TANGLETEEZER.COM/PROFESSIONAL
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Lve Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock
FULL STREAM AHEAD!
Three-quarters of the Salon Smart Live audience were watching the programme alone – very Covid-19 safe!
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IT MAY HAVE BEEN a little later than planned, but nothing could stop Salon Smart from inspiring and connecting salon owners and hairdressers across the UK! For the first time ever, Salon Smart became the fully virtual Salon Smart Live, a live experience beamed onto laptops and phone screens with interactive elements such as instant polls and questions pinged right to the incredible line-up of industry experts. It was amazing that we could get together in this way, especially after such a turbulent year for us all. The aim of Salon Smart Live was to discuss the next steps, to reconnect, listen to each other and learn new ideas to put into our businesses to move them forward – planning and preparing for the future, whatever that might look like. All carefully socially distanced and PPE applied, the Salon Smart Live studio hosted a programme of savvy speakers. The Working Lunch sessions saw business and creative experts from L’Oréal Professionnel and Treatwell joined remotely by associate sponsors ghd, Phorest Salon Software and Timely. They shared insights on essential subjects such as successful email marketing and building a brilliant team. And all were there to take the audience’s questions and offer real help and support during such a challenging time.
WHAT’S YOUR ATTITUDE TO MOBILE/SELFEMPLOYED STYLISTS?
61% BELIEVE EMPLOYED STYLISTS ARE BEST FOR THEIR BUSINESS/THE INDUSTRY IN GENERAL 18% BELIEVE MOBILE STYLISTS ARE A THREAT TO SALONS 11% ACTIVELY ENCOURAGE SELFEMPLOYED STYLISTS TO WORK IN THEIR SALON 11% WORRY THAT SOME OF THEIR EMPLOYED TEAM ARE SECRETLY SEEING CLIENTS IN THEIR OWN HOMES
WHAT’S THE NUMBER ONE PRIORITY FOR YOUR BUSINESS NEXT AND INTO THE NEW YEAR?
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Errol Douglas MBE
50% UPDATING OR ADDING NEW SERVICES 25% GROWING THE TEAM 25% TRAINING AND EDUCATION
T I Y A S , T I E E
SOME OF THE MOST popular sessions of every Salon Smart – IRL or virtual – are when lots of people get stuck in to talk through some of the big questions. Our Great Debate expert panel included Jordanna Cobella from Cobella, Errol Douglas MBE, The NHBF’s outgoing chief executive Hilary Hall, Neville Hair & Beauty’s Elena Lavagni and Salon64’s Ricky Walters, discussing the importance of team and communication – undoubtedly the big take away from Salon Smart Live. Think Tank, an iconic Salon Smart Q&A session, helps find solutions to real-life challenges – so the panel of Mysalonmanager’s Simon Harris, Treatwell’s Giorgia Rossi, Linnaean’s Elena Tayleur and Electric Hairdressing’s Mark Woolley was faced with YOUR questions to deliver some answers! And at home, the Power Pack cans of rosé were cracked open for Meet & Mix! More than a dozen of the mainstage presenters and panellists, based both in the Salon Smart Studio and joining from other locations, were 59% ARE TAKING ON APPRENTICES armed with iPads and a special login to our interactive app to answer the 18% ARE PRIORITISING OTHER AREAS OF THE BUSINESS DUE TO THE COVID19 audience’s burning questions. 14% ARE NOT RECRUITING RIGHT NOW, FOR FINANCIAL REASONS Yes, we had Salon Smart legends – L’Oréal Professionnel’s Monica 9% ARE STRUGGLING TO FIND APPRENTICES Teodoro smashed it again by invoking the exceedingly hopeful example of Sir David Attenborough breaking records on Instagram, while 3•6•5 Education’s Ken West got tough with some hard facts about generating the income needed to cover PPE and loan repayments. But we also had some new faces, including Treatwell’s Dennis Meisner and Laura Howard, joined by Threads & Co’s Matt Bartell, and BBC The One Show’s green reporter Lucy Siegle for L’Oréal Professionnel, on the difference hair stylists can make by talking 100% believe financial sustainability to clients restraints/fear of Covid-19 in the chair.
Matt Bartell and Laura Howard
WHAT’S THE SITUATION WITH APPRENTICES IN YOUR BUSINESS RIGHT NOW?
will mean clients will visit less frequently than before
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IT’S STORY TIME
Christel Barron-Hough Phil Smith
THERE WAS A wealth of stories from Salon Smart speakers at the coalface, taking in marketing, advice on creating brand identities, the importance of teamwork in multi-pronged ventures and building awareness of mental health into business. Tom Chapman, founder of The Lions Barber Collective and 2019 Most Wanted Award for Innovation winner, discussed how alongside physical health, we all have to monitor our minds… especially now. Gavin Mills, owner and manager of the Bad Apple Hair Group in the Midlands, covered growth and the importance of digital marketing, sharing the mantra “data is king, and community is queen”. STIL’s Christel Barren-Hough and MAYFIVE’s Katie Allan shared the stage for an insight into how their fledgling colour salons have achieved attention, acclaim and healthy columns. The man – the brand! – Mark Maciver of SliderCuts Studios was joined on stage by his executive assistant Casey Elisha (and publicist, Shaffra Gray-Read via video) as he shared insight into building his business beyond the barber shop (the secret? Lots of hard work!). And industry legend Phil Smith traversed his early days at Raymond Bessone’s salon, his challenging time in charge of a failing franchise business in Salisbury, and his bounce back with an incredibly successful salon in Bath. Overall, it was tales of thrills, a few scares, and happy endings!
Watch Salon Smart Live on demand for just £35 – visit creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart now! CREATIVE HEAD
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Piece of the action Salon owner, fashion fanatic and editorial ace, Richard Phillipart has so many strings to his bow it’s little wonder he’s enjoyed the success he has. With the help of his core Fashion Week squad – featuring Matthew Sutcliffe, Jordanna Cobella, Lauren Bell, Bailey Humphreys and Jennifer Linton – the regular lead for teams supported by L’Oréal Professionnel and BaByliss PRO built a backstage vibe at SalonSmart Live to recreate three of his favourite creations from his back catalogue… PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDY LANE
Richard Malone S/S20
STRAIGHT FROM the S/S20 runway, this perfect plait for Richard Malone was inspired by the collection’s beautiful, intricate accessories. Sinuous metallic additions were stitched to the end of the sleek braids, to enhance the stylistic effect. “It’s the precision and thought behind the look that gives it that high-end edge. There are no lumps, bumps or movement,” Richard explained. Hair was prepped and blow-dried with L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Liss Control and Pli for the perfect texture. 6Fix was sprayed continuously during the styling to keep things smooth, before using a combination of netting, hairspray and diffusers to flatten and smooth through the crown of the head. “It’s about taking classic techniques and rethinking them,” Richard added. “I use this technique in the salon sometimes too when I’m doing a soft blow-dry. You can also spray hairspray on a big, dense synthetic make-up brush to hold specific strands in place.” The result was an exquisite, elevated take on a classic look. Not one hair was out of place, so all eyes were on the metallic elements as they caught the light down the runway. This look also made an appearance in Richard’s Snowdonia-set masterpiece Nomadic Winter, which featured exclusively in the January 2020 issue of Creative HEAD. How could we forget the alpaca co-star? 56
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‘Please don’t touch my HAIR’ Vogue
PART OF RICHARD’S first independent Vogue shoot, this celebrates the versatility and beauty of textured hair. The dramatic shaping was courtesy of a sponge board and synthetic hair extensions to create the base. The model’s hair was then carefully brushed up to blend into the shape. “It’s sculptural, but it’s so easy to lose that shape,” Richard warned. “It took a lot of time to perfect the parting at the back.” The hair fanned out flawlessly, with precise lines blending seamlessly into the shape. “It’s details like this that elevate it above ‘hair up’, so that it looks super refined.” Richard tolerates absolutely no excuses when it comes to textured hair. “It’s important that people take the time to educate themselves to deal with all types of hair. It’s 2020, with all of the resources at our disposal there really is no excuse.” The Vogue piece also included a 32” dreadlock wig that took Richard three weeks to create; all of the looks were about enhancing natural texture, rather than defaulting to blow-drying or weaves.
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A/W18 at On|Off
A THROWBACK TO Jack Irving’s A/W18 On|Off presentation, this look was one of first assistant Lauren Bell’s all-time favourites as a part of Team Phillipart. Richard went through weeks of wig testing to get the perfect touch of retro styling and a plastic-look finish for the futuristic, alien-esque vibe of the clothes. “The references were B-movies from the ’50s,” Richard explained. “The idea was that these were aliens who had seen a picture of a human woman and tried to disguise themselves, but that they hadn’t realised that the hair wasn’t one solid piece.” Backstory and character have become real calling cards for Richard, and his deep-dive research has helped elevate him to the level of session star. Another example of classic techniques with a twist, the unusual plastic-y finish was a result of gel liberally painted onto the spun hair, created using plenty of hairspray and a diffuser. “Using gel alone makes it too heavy,” he explained, before showcasing how the tight double pleat was created using chopsticks. “You can fold the hair super tightly for that sculptural shape, much more so than fingers,” he added. “It’s important to be prepared for any eventuality!” 60
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Hair: Richard Phillipart, assisted by Lauren Bell, Jordanna Cobella, Bailey Humphreys, Jennifer Linton and Matthew Sutcliffe. Make-up: Miranda Baron. Wardrobe: Richard Malone, Jack Irving, Daniel Pascal Tanner. Models: Leili St Clair, Lylana and Mahalia @Nevs Models
Watch Richard at work at Salon Smart Live! The whole event is available to watch on demand â€“ visit creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart now!
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Scene Mollie King
Millie Kendall MBE
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
WHILE WE WILL have to wait for another epic night out at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final, L’Oréal Professionnel still celebrated its salons and talents in a virtual event, Stronger Together. Hosted by BBC DJ Mollie King and Monica Teodoro, the new general manager of education and professional development for L’Oréal Professional Products Division UK & Ireland, the event fused film with live interviews and even an in-studio hair presentation. Fabio Piras, MA Fashion course director at Central Saint Martins, and designer Gareth Pugh set the tone from the start, cementing L’Oréal Professionnel’s status as a true supporter of British fashion. We were also treated to some ‘Back to Cool’ hair moments from stylists including The Hair Lounge’s Charlotte Mensah, Adam Reed London’s Sarah Black, and Nashwhite’s Jordan Massarella. In the studio, Luke Pluckrose from SAKS alongside celebrity make-up artist Nikki Wolff, discussed their creative process and shared a few stories, while British Beauty Council’s Millie Kendal MBE chatted with Haircuts for Homeless’ Stewart Roberts. It climaxed with a live show from Cos Sakkas, Indira Schauwecker and Efi Davies of the Toni&Guy International Artistic Team, before Instagram favourites the Collyer Twins provided some at-home vibes.
2020 Vision FABIO PIRAS, MA FASHION COURSE DIRECTOR AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS, ON THE SCHOOL’S 20-YEAR RELATIONSHIP WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
Luke Pluckrose, Nikki Wolff and Mollie King
“Together we’ve produced a very special publication (pictured), which is going out to L’Oréal Professionnel salons, worked on by the Fashion Communication: Fashion Image students as well as the Fashion Journalism students. It’s great that it’s paper, it’s a real object. It’s not every day the students are given a free hand to produce a publication. That’s quite an amazing project for them. “The importance of our relationship with L’Oréal Professionnel is enormous. It’s not just the financial commitment, which impacts things like the BA and MA shows that showcases the students’ work. It’s a level of security, peace of mind. They are always there for us with extraordinary hair artists. “And the awards and bursaries enable the students to get themselves started. Those have saved students over the years and given them a chance to breathe.”
Shane Bennett Hare & Bone
Cory Couts, Kao salon division global president
AN ANNUAL HIGHLIGHT of the hair calendar is flying in to a major city with thousands of hairdressers from around the globe to celebrate all things Goldwell, KMS and Oribe. We might not have been able to meet in person, but the Kao Salon Virtual Experience was breathtaking in its spectacle and its loyalty to the spirit of that big gathering. So much was packed in; Angelo Seminara, the recently revealed global brand ambassador for Goldwell, unveiled his limited edition collection Glance, which was full of boundary-pushing colour. Artist sessions included Hare & Boneâ€™s Sam Burnett and 2019 It List It Guy Jamie Benny; as well as Shane Bennett and Mazella & Partners. A huge gala show brought disco to life, welcome right now when nightclubs are so verboten. Also revealed during the event was a change to the new Global Creative Awards in 2021, which will allow all Kao Salon Division salons and stylists that use Goldwell, KMS and Oribe to enter. And the business is expanding its focus on sustainability with the Kirei Lifestyle Plan. The life cycle of each product from Goldwell, KMS and Oribe will be examined and improved to ensure its environmental footprint is as minimal as possible. This means more sustainable sourcing of raw materials, cutting water usage and CO2 emissions, exploring different sprays to aerosols, creating packaging design that minimises waste, or streamlining production, logistics, sales, use and disposal. A virtual event with enormous global impact and inspiration â€“ simply exceptional.
Hare & Bone
Mazella & Partners
Mazella & Partners
Assistin g @Richa rdPhilli part backst age at #SalonSmartLive
I wasn’t shy to share what’s worked and what hasn’t for my busine ss #SalonSmartLive Part of The Great Debate panel at #SalonSmartLive
Rose, meet Toffee. Colour correction and new cut for @jasmi na-wood
frame Jordanna Cobella (@jordannacobella), creative director of Cobella and part of the Salon Smart Live and Creative HEAD Christmas cover shoot teams, snaps away
Colour moodboarding through Mond ay. This is where nude and vintage peach combin e
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
I’m kee n to sha re this clea n icy blon de and restyle for @ug neva len-
With @betha nyaben nett shootin g outdoo rs all night for @ghdh airpro
r My Creative HEAD co ver fo sh oot m od el, wa iti ng he r clo se up 66
Cobe lla Cont our, as seen on my colou r men u!
My 3 D blonde
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