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APRIL 2017 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
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Creativity, diversity, identity. It all matters, because
style matters 16/03/2017 14:42
AS THE WORLD GETS SMALLER, OUR STYLE INFLUENCES GROW WIDER AND MORE DIVERSE. FROM THE SOPHISTICATION OF NEW YORK TO THE EDGINESS OF BERLIN, KMS HAS CURATED DIFFERENT STYLES FROM URBAN FASHION DISTRICTS AROUND THE WORLD TO INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS, SO YOU CAN START, STYLE AND FINISH YOUR BEST STYLES EVERY DAY â€“ BECAUSE STYLE MATTERS
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N I L R E B
ANYTHING GOES IN LONDON – STYLE ENCOMPASSES PUNK, ROYALTY AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN. KMS GLOBAL STYLE COUNCIL MEMBER SAM BURNETT TAKES US THROUGH HIS LONDON LOOKS
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KMS THERMASHAPE 2-in-1 Spray
KMS ADDVOLUME Texture Creme
KMS MOISTREPAIR Revival Creme
Elina’s style equation
“Terrence and Elina’s looks are classic London. Elegant and sophisticated yet still practical”
CREATIVE HEAD: Where do you find inspiration? SAM BURNETT: Street culture in London is so vibrant, especially in the North East and the emerging art scene in the South. I also get inspired by art and make sure to check out the latest exhibitions. CH: What’s special about London style? SB: Whether you’re hanging out in one of the city’s many parks or hopping on the tube to head to an amazing market, the city is so eclectic. During Fashion Week it comes alive – it’s one of the best times to get a taste of what London style is all about.
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KMS HAIRSTAY Working Hairspray
KMS HAIRPLAY Sea Salt Spray
KMS COLORVITALITY Blonde Shampoo
Terrence’s style equation
START: After shampooing, apply KMS MOISTREPAIR Revival Creme to towel-dried hair and work through. This restores moisture balance and improves manageability. STYLE: Spray KMS HAIRPLAY Sea Salt Spray into hair to add texture and bulk then blow-dry using your hands to shape the hair. FINISH: Spray KMS HAIRPLAY Dry
Wax onto the hair and work it through with your hands for additional texture and a matte ﬁnish.
THE CAPITAL OF GERMANY IS EDGY AND MODERN AND THE KMS GLOBAL STYLE COUNCIL REFLECTS THIS RAW SOPHISTICATION IN LANCE’S LOOK
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KMS HAIRPLAY Dry Wax
KMS HAIRPLAY Sea Salt Spray
KMS MOISTREPAIR Revival Creme
LANCE’S STYLE EQUATION FEATURES KMS MOISTREPAIR REVIVAL CREME TO RESTORE THE MOISTURE BALANCE IN HIS HAIR.
Lance’s style equation
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
IN THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS THERE’S A SENSE OF PRACTICALITY AROUND STYLE – FUNCTIONAL CAN STILL BE FASHIONABLE AND RETAINS THAT INDESCRIBABLE NEW YORK QUALITY
KMS HAIRPLAY Playable Texture
KMS HAIRPLAY Molding Paste
KMS COLORVITALITY Shampoo
Jake’s style equation
“This style really reflects what’s happening on the streets. It’s an urban aesthetic and speaks to the individual sense of style: effortless yet deliberate, fun and confident” Lori Panarello, KMS Global Style Council member
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SKYSCRAPERS MEET TEMPLES AND PALACES IN THE CITY THAT’S FAST BECOMING THE STYLE CAPITAL OF SOUTHEAST ASIA. XINJI’S STYLE TAKES ON THIS DICHOTOMY
XINJI’S STYLE EQUATION FEATURES KMS HAIRPL AY SEA SALT SPRAY, FEATURING SALT FROM THE DEAD SEA TO HELP TO ADD FULLNESS AND TEXTURE.
KMS HAIRPLAY Dry Wax
KMS HAIRPLAY Sea Salt Spray
KMS ADDVOLUME Shampoo
X inji’s style equation
“This look represents the diversity we’re seeing around the world right now. I can see this look really taking off in the Asian fashion scene” Kenny Chow, KMS Global Style Council member
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
HIT THE ROAD AND DISCOVER THE NEW PRODUCTS FROM KMS THAT ARE GUARANTEED TO SHAKE UP THE STYLE SET
From New York
KMS HAIRSTAY Working Hairspray is perfect for New Yorkers rushing to work battling humid summers and snowy winters. Made with flexible, humidityresistant polymers, the spray allows your clients to build their look – the more they spray, the more it holds.
KMS MOISTREPAIR Cleansing Conditioner is the newest Start product to join the co-washing trend that’s sweeping Seoul. The cleansing conditioner is made with conditioning agents with a small amount of cleansing agents so you get highly conditioned, clean hair.
KMS ADDVOLUME Texture Creme is weatherproof for London, providing humidity resistance for up to three days – perfect for clients with fine hair as it adds texture, body and volume thanks to calcium minerals that coat every hair strand.
KMS ADDVOLUME Liquid Dust is inspired by Berlin’s club scene where people stay out until the sun comes up and want to change their look from day to night to morning. Liquid Dust easily creates fullness without the mess of a powder and clients can reshape anytime.
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CREATE INFINITE STYLES WITH THE EASY KMS THREE-STEP SYSTEM
. h s i n i F . le y t S . t r a St It's as simple as that
Discover a world of style possibilities with KMS. To find out more, call 01323 432100 or visit kmshair.com
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CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION
" ! t x e n e "M
OUR FEATURED ARTIST IN APRIL IS ISSEY HYDE
S START L 1 APRI
Go backstage at Fashion Week with The It List Fashionista (and sneak a peek in her kitbag while you’re there…)
HEAD ONLINE NOW! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EDUCATION
“Revlonissimo Colorsmetique is like make-up for your hair. Clients love the soft, super shiny results.” Anne Veck Southern Hairdresser of the Year & Global Style Master
WITH HYALURONIC ACID & SOY PROTEIN
Eight times Shinier
than before coloring on bleached hair (2)
Twice as Shiny as natural hair (2)
Twice as Resistant to Breakage than before coloring on bleached hair (2)
(1) Consumer test done in 2014 on 2,123 women who color their hair. (2) Independent Laboratory Test. (3) Expert Grading Sensorial Test.
FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK: 020 7391 7440 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.UK@REVLON.COM IRELAND: 01886 9300 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.IRE@REVLON.COM
TO STOCK THIS PRODUCT CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK: 020 7391 7440 / email@example.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / firstname.lastname@example.org
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“Working with Mary felt like a true collaboration. I was immediately drawn to her use of bold patterns in her collections and luxury scarves. This is a perfect gift for our clients when they purchase products from our award-winning label.m haircare range.”
Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck Global Creative Director
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Mary Katrantzou’s trademark print launches exclusively at label.m salons in May 2017 as part of a new designer fashion collaboration.
As seen on the catwalk – Mary Katrantzou scarves are renowned for featuring exuberant technicolour prints applied to lustrous, lightweight fabrics. The label.m x Mary Katrantzou scarf will bring you and your clients, city and beach lovers, fashion devotees or simply admirers of gorgeous things – the most versatile accessory of the season!
How will you wear your scarf? www. labelm.com 01753 612040 F : labelmUK T : labelmUK I : labelmUK P : labelm YT : UKlabelm
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STYLE UNITES US At KMS, our Style Community is the heart of our brand. We’re creatives, unified by the powerful language of style. We find inspiration in the world around us: in fashion, in art, and most importantly, in hair. We come together to create a worldwide network of style — to collaborate, learn and grow. Join us. Download the KMS app to instantly connect with other stylists worldwide.
let’s create great style together.
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90 JOIN US!
ASIDE FROM THE odd Kristen Stewart buzz cut, the vast majority of celebrity trend inspirations are long haired, which means most clients don’t need to be sat in your chair every four weeks to keep their ’do looking razor sharp. Spells between appointments have been getting longer, so it’s imperative salons look at how to entice clients to spend more when visiting. That’s why we’ve investigated all those innovations that can add more to the bill and keep long hair looking lush – from colour additives to keratin services, these are all-important ways to put pounds in the till and a smile on your client’s face. While they’re with you, customer service needs to be impeccable, and a great example of that is the new salon that everyone’s talking about – Larry King. I enjoyed an exclusive chat (and impeccable haircut) with David Gandy’s BFF about his new hair hangout in South Kensington and why we’ll be hearing more from his team over the months to come. Perhaps they’ll be taking a chance in the Most Wanted and It List Awards, just like Larry’s colour queens, Amy Fish and Harriet Muldoon did in 2016? Well, let me point you to page 46 for all the details on how to enter – you’ve got ’til mid May, plenty of time to pull together a winning entry...
Amanda Nottage Editor
Sayonara Salon Smart! Creative HEAD’s sell-out business networking event is a wrap, taking place in London just days after going to press, you’ll have to wait until May for full coverage. Meanwhile, our Most Wanted and The It List Awards are in full swing. Encompassing the creativity of the salon as well as fashion, design and business, there are 20 trophies waiting to be claimed. And tickets are now on sale for The Coterie: In Session, happening in London on 23 May. It’s going to be epic. Get set for live and exclusive on-set creativity with session stylist Samantha Hillerby and It List It Guy Joshua Goldsworthy, hosted by Runway guest editor Jessica Diner. For more on Creative HEAD events, visit creativeheadmag.com/events
Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year 2014 and 2015
email@example.com Creative HEAD Magazine
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WHAT’S INSIDE 76
ON THE COVER Hair by KMS
Shades of grey with X-presion Creative Team and Fudge Professional
Hooker & Young storm the Waldorf Hilton
£4.50 APRIL 2017
The hippest new hair hangout from David Gandy’s groomer
This is just for
ON THE COVER
Limited edition cover by System Professional EDITOR
DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER ALISON ROWLEY
CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK
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SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
Creative HEAD Magazine
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certiﬁed as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 firstname.lastname@example.org
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
The Versatility of
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
ORGANIC BEAUTY SALES RISE SALES OF CERTIFIED organic and natural beauty products increased by 13 per cent in 2016 to £61.2 million, according to the Soil Association’s Organic Beauty and Wellbeing Market Report. The report revealed the market has been driven by an increasing interest in health and wellbeing, with 43 per cent of people surveyed saying they look for a certification logo when shopping for organic cosmetics. Salons are seeing it as an opportunity to attract a whole new clientele. “We have seen a rise in clientele, since we became an eco-salon in early 2016,” said Suzie Gillespie, owner of The Players Lounge in Edinburgh. “There is a portion of our clients who come to our salon because we are eco, but the majority all say the eco element is a bonus.” The trend towards sustainability and greener ingredients is slowly filtering down into haircare brands, but Suzie found it hard to find a brand that suited all her clients. “For hair products, we have yet to find an organic brand of men’s styling products that offers the range of products we need. We predominantly use Evo. It offers natural products and its packaging is 100 per cent recyclable. It also gives all its damaged stock to homeless shelters,” added Suzie. Salons unable to stock completely organic hair products could opt for ones that are sustainably sourced, such as Aveda; or that are cruelty-free, such as Paul Mitchell. As sustainability becomes more important, so does the trend for simplicity and brand transparency. The Soil Association’s report noted key consumer beauty trends for 2017 as more people favouring ingredients from food or plant sources that are easier to identify and a higher level of scrutiny of beauty products’ ethical and sustainable sourcing credentials.
goes backstage with Sam McKnight at Vivienne Westwood A/W17 CREATIVE HEAD WAS invited to a backstage exclusive at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood to see Sam McKnight for BaByliss PRO create the hair story at Paris Fashion Week. And with Vivienne Westwood herself walking the runway, all eyes were on this show. Sam created a hair look called Recycled Chic, using the Titanium Expression Ultimate Styler, Italia BRAVA hairdryer and Titanium Expression Tongs all from BaByliss PRO before adding coloured hair, fringes and items discarded in the label’s own Paris showroom, such as crisp packets, plastic bottles and corks. “It’s clean and childlike, it’s not grungy,” explained Sam. “There are lots of hats in the collection made out of recycled rubbish, too, earrings from long pieces of hair, so this is carrying it all through. It’s kind of TO SEE the look come together, haphazard and everyone is completely different. watch our exclusive video on Creative HEAD Education now! It’s a bit Blue Peter really…” Wave goodbye to boring straighteners and up your styling game with the Special Edition Cloud Nine White Touch straighteners. Not only are they superb at creating enviably smooth locks, but £10 of every sale goes to Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity in aid of its annual campaign, Bad Hair Day. Available throughout April.
IN HD BROWS, I’VE BUILT A DEDICATED BASE OF OVER 400 CLIENTS
LISA COLEMAN, HERTFORDSHIRE, MASTER HD BROWS ST YLIST
95% OF LISA’S CLIENTS ARE HD BROWS REGUL ARS. WITH A REPEAT BOOKING EVERY 4-6 WEEKS, BRINGING THE UK’S NUMBER 1 BROW TREATMENT TO YOUR HAIR SALON MAKES PERFECT BUSINESS SENSE.
BROW & MAKE UP TRAINING AVAIL ABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT THE HIGH DEFINITION ELITE ACADEMIES IN LEEDS, MILTON KEYNES, GL ASGOW & NEWRY, N. IREL AND.
0844 801 30 63
#CHedit MY month
AHEAD What April has in store for... DENIS ROBINSON RUFFIANS
It List winners enjoy day with Adam Reed THE IT LIST 2016 winners enjoyed an exclusive and intimate hands-on styling masterclass with ghd ambassador and session maestro, Adam Reed, as part of their incredible prize. The day-long event – held at ghd’s Dean Street studio in London – took the form of an informal shoot, with Adam fielding questions about his multi-faceted career while guiding the winners through his favourite backstage hacks and time-saving techniques for use both on set and in the salon. The It Listers were let loose to create their own dressed-out looks on two models, before Adam joined in with an impromptu iPhone shooting session. Armed with a ghd Air, he helped them all get the shot by diving to the floor and acting as a makeshift wind machine! 2017
IT COULD BE YOU – find out more about how to enter The It List from page 46. Good luck!
MORE SALONS SEARCHING FOR APPRENTICES MORE THAN HALF of salons across Britain are looking to take on at least one apprentice over the next 12 months, according to the 2017 Beautiful Britain report from Salon Services, Creative HEAD can exclusively reveal. About 58 per cent wanted to take on at least one apprentice, up from 43 per cent in 2016. Warren Scarr, managing director and group vice president of Sally Salon Services UK and Ireland, said: “One of the biggest challenges to overcome is visibility: businesses need to
know where to find and recruit apprentices, and how to promote themselves as attractive places to start a career.” The sixth annual Beautiful Britain report also revealed that the top investment priorities for businesses across the UK were prioritising new treatments/services (66 per cent of salons), followed by equipment (45 per cent) and staff training (37 per cent). The map of the UK haircut prices saw London charging £35.10 on average, while Wales was lowest at £20.10.
MEET THE NEW SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL YAT FOR 2017! SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL has announced the six new members of its 2017 Young Artistic Team. They are (pictured, clockwise from back left): Abbey Jarrold, realhair; Sinead Hourihane, Lynda Maher Hair; Jade Morrin, En Route Hair & Beauty; Megan Deigan, Rainbow Room International; Bevan Scott Clark, Hooker & Young; and Christie Sanders, Austen Thomson Hair. The six were selected after rigorous testing judged by session stylist Kim Rance, Trevor Sorbie’s Tom Connell and HOB Salons’ Peter Burkill.
It’s my first full month as artistic director for Ruffians so it’s going to be busy! I’m travelling our stores, building our art team, and we’re deciding on which Most Wanted Award we will be entering this year, and helping to write the It List Rising Star entry form for one of our graduate stylists.
MARCELLO MOCCIA ROOM 97
We have two salon teams through to the L’Oréal Colour Trophy North Eastern Backstage Live Tour, which we’re really excited about! We’re spending the first part of the month ensuring the teams’ final looks are catwalkready with team meetings and plenty of planning to ensure it all goes well.
Robert Eaton is new face of Hot Tools ROBERT EATON, the 2016 Most Wanted Colour Expert, is the new European brand ambassador of Hot Tools Professional as it launches in the UK. The announcement coincided with its newest innovation, the CurlBar, ergonomically designed for easier use by hairstylists. The colour director of Russell Eaton salons said: “I am hugely impressed by its product innovation. There is no doubt this will be a brand that is going to change the way hairdressers curl hair.”
NEW LI MI T E D EDITION
S UM M
C US EX IV
White Touch Gloss Edition L
£10 from every sale goes to Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity
Call 01943 811314 to order this limited edition Iron today
Shampure Thermal Dry Conditioner from Aveda instantly softens, detangles and conditions on non-wash days when clients are already reaching for the dry shampoo for their roots – now the lengths are sorted, too!
Kit bag need a little love? Check out this range from Unite – including three round brushes that change colour from black to white when heat activated, locking in volume and style.
RRP FROM £22 0845 034077 unitehair.co.uk
RRP £25 0370 034 2380
0844 801 3245
Unless you’ve been living under a Wi-Fi-free rock, you’ll know how rainbow hair peppers just about everybody’s Instagram feed. And the crazy hue trend ain’t going anywhere! But, for many clients, this will have been a rather DIY experimentation… and that’s where new #ColorfulHair from L’Oréal Professionnel makes its big entrance! This salon-only line has a unique palette of eight intermixable direct dye shades to give your clients thousands of colour possibilities in your expert hands. Dial it up by using the ultra-bright vibrant shades, or dial it down by mixing with Crystal Clear to create softer unicorn-friendly tones. A colour game changer! IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 600 0122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
From graphite to rose quartz, the new smoky capsule range Ash Infusions from Fudge Professional’s Headpaint is spot-on for the silver trend.
IN-SALON SERVICE 020 7845 6333 fudgeprofessional.com
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Long-lasting, smudge proof, waterproof… new Brow Crème from High Definition even has an innovative catch net to ensure clients get just the right amount every time.
It’s 24ct gold, has a vibrating timer and is set to change up the way you wave – meet the ergonomic CurlBar from Hot Tools Professional, which promises to be easier on your wrists.
It’s time to inject energy back into your client’s hair – and into your retail – with System Professional’s EnergyCode Mapping, the perfect personalised approach.
RRP FROM £15.50 01202 595700 systemprofessional.com
For super-soft beards that are nourished for nuzzling, guys (and their other halves) will love the oilbased Beard Serum from American Crew.
RRP £12.95 020 7391 7440 americancrew.com
KMS MOISTREPAIR Cleansing Conditioner is the newest recruit to join the co-washing trend! It’s the ideal touch of inspiration for your SoKo beautyobsessed clients…
01323 432100 kmshair.com
Client likes Skinny Dip accessories? Then they’ll love the brand’s hook-up with Tangle Teezer – that flamingo print is perfect for a touch of Miami cool!
020 7738 4458 tangleteezer.com
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS IT’S BECOMING something of a summer tradition – the unveiling of a limited edition collection from ghd, full of heavenly hues, with an engaging concept that helps capture the attention of the client in your chair. This S/S17, open your doors to the ghd wanderlust collection, inspired by unique encounters across the globe and designed with the intrepid traveller in mind. Escape in style with the ghd platinum tropic sky styler, with a vivid violet-infused pattern, or for those who like their designs a little warmer, you’ve got the ghd V gold amber sunrise and ruby sunset stylers. There’s a ghd air wanderlust hairdryer, but we think clients will queue up for the ghd flight travel hairdryer (out in May), which folds up smaller to squeeze into any overstuffed suitcase. Don’t forget your passport…
RRP FROM £55 0845 330 1133
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
IT’S ALL ABOUT... SUMMER
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Clients off on sunny breaks already? Tell them about the summer solutions from Philip Kingsley – we love new Instant Beach texturising spray.
Help clients rule the waves with Queen Beach Salt Infused Texture Spray by Bed Head by TIGI. This fast-dry spray is infused with Balinese sea salt for that sexy, surf babe look.
RRP FROM £15 020 7237 7100
RRP £16.25 0844 844 0944
COLOUR CONSULTATION INSPIRATION, INNOVATION AND BUSINESS BOOSTING IDEAS TO MAKE COLOUR BIG IN YOUR SALON
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
IS COLOURFUL THE NEW NORMAL? WHETHER CLIENTS ARE COLOUR JUNKIES OR PREFER A HIDDEN POP OF COLOUR, #COLORFULHAIR IS THE NEW HAIR NORMAL. YOU CAN DIAL IT UP OR DIAL IT DOWN WITH THE NEW RANGE OF EIGHT INTERMIXABLE DIRECT DYES FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. CREATE SOMETHING COMPLETELY UNIQUE – JUST THINK OF THE POSSIBILITIES! INTRODUCING THE NEW LOOKS…
Perfect for low-commitment clients, hidden colour peeks out when she runs her fingers through her hair – and just think of the effect when plaited back in a braid! Instagram heaven...
This is all about seemingly effortless blending and layering to create whimsically colourful results from every angle.
Just like magic, violet tones melt into the hair and reveal a softer lavender shade. The must-have look of the season.
This is all-out colour indulgence. Insanely gorgeous ocean-inspired masterpieces that are social media gold.
GET THE LOOK
…this stunning caramel Smartbond transformation by @sarahsaks from @saks_uk @sakslytham. Want it? Recreate it for your clients using the following steps: STEP 1: Balayage using Blond Studio Platinium Plus + 20 vol STEP 2: Tone lightened sections from around the crown using DIA RICHESSE Hi-Visibility .43 +9 vol for 2-3 minutes STEP 3: Tone the rest of the hair with DIA LIGHT 10.21 +15 vol
Visit @lorealprouk on Instagram to see more transformations. Don’t forget to share your own using @lorealprouk #lorealpro #smartbond
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
BIGGER BUSINESS, HEALTHIER HAIR WITH NEW SMARTBOND SERVICES!
Since its launch last year, Smartbond from L’Oréal Professionnel has had a considerable impact – both on salons seeing a bigger bill from its services, and colour clients enjoying softer, stronger, shinier hair. But the good news just got even better – Smartbond services are for all clients, not just colour guests… and L’Oréal Professionnel has unveiled four services to help you upgrade your clients to the hair of their dreams – stronger, better protected and gorgeously glossy!
Add Smartbond to any of your colouring services for added protection, making it a Smartcolour!
To prep the finished look, you can always rely on Tecni.ART Pli, L’Oréal Professionnel’s backstage favourite. This essential session styling product is a heat-activated memory spray that provides shape, grip and hold. Spray liberally onto damp or dry hair before creating any desired style. It’s a one-bottle wonder!
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Try the diamond clear top coat Smartgloss, the must-have service for those wanting a dazzling mirror-like finish. Add Smartbond with Dia Light or Dia Richesse Clear for the ultimate shine.
Use Smartbond with your client’s regular cut or blow dry appointment as a standalone 10-minute Smartcare treatment – it boosts the strength of their hair, adding shine and preventing damage.
And now, you can also add Smartbond into any texture or straightening services that clients have asked for, to get the ideal condition, every single time.
GET CREATIVE IN 2017! DO YOU WANT to learn how to bespoke your colour offering in the salon? Sophie Kearney (pictured), colour director at George’s Hairdressing in Leicester, is known for her inspirational trend training, enthusiastic style and modern colouring techniques. In her Creative Colour course, Sophie will inspire you with mixing ideas and formulas, trends and techniques. Book your place now for her 8 May session in Manchester, 3 July in Suffolk or 30 October in Edinburgh. Call 0800 028 3448.
R I S I N G S TA R
WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I grew up with several hairdressing influences from both my mother and father’s sides of the family. So clearly it’s in my genes! It’s a satisfying and rewarding job, making other people feel good about themselves and giving them confidence. There are also many career options within this industry. It’s also very flexible and adaptable, it’s always evolving and every day is different.
FRANKIE MOODY AGE: 22 SALON: JO HANSFORD
WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? Being selected as a L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artist for 2016/17, working backstage at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and also assisting at London Fashion Week, on shows such as Milo Maria, Topshop Unique, Zandra Rhodes, Ong Oaj Pairam, Erdem, JW Anderson and J JS Lee.
WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? It would be amazing to work abroad for Fashion Weeks – Paris, Milan and New York. I’d also really love to showcase my work with a designer for LFW and lead my own hair team.
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WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I would love to be promoted through the styling ranks at Jo Hansford and head up an art team. I always say yes to every opportunity I’m given, you never know where it may lead!
Inside story NYLON READING
WITH A NEW YORK loft vibe, Nylon oﬀers a calm and friendly environment with a barista-style coﬀee bar where clients can relax in an area dedicated to Reading’s art community. Nylon’s founder, Claire Higgs, and her husband Keil Norton built and designed the salon, along with the help of interior designer, Charlotte Salt – we love the dining table Keil built for colour clients to relax at while colour processes. The inspiration came from a short ﬁlm they worked on for Selfridges, shot on location at architect Graham Phillips’ Skywood, a house that’s been heralded as turning lifestyle into a work of art. Shelves in the salon are well stocked with backstage favourite Bumble and bumble, as Claire was a stylist at London Fashion Week for a number of seasons as well as on editorial shoots.
MY REFLECTION WILL GO ON
New to Takara Belmont’s Traditional Collection, the Dion mirror features a solid hardwood frame for timeless style. It’s available in three rich wood finishes – walnut natural, walnut dark brown and oak dark brown. It goes perfectly with the Aubrey styling station! Price: £420+VAT 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk 30
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Named after straight razor manufacturer Benjamin Huntsman, this barbershop is working hard to stand out, stocking Hanz de Fuko and Brighton Beard Company products. CREATIVE HEAD
THE IKOSOFT RANGE Whether you’re big or small, an artist or a geek (or both!), Merlin is the solution you need!
MERLIN LIGHT MERLIN SOLO MERLIN AIR
The ultimate in salon software management, Merlin Pro gives you access to a whole host of powerful tools to let you manage every aspect of your business in complete confidence.
Light is the way to go if you have several employees and want all the features of the Solo package with a full range of dedicated reports to go with it.
Merlin Solo and Merlin Light can be expanded with modules*. *Stock, Employee, Marketing and Loyalty modules. © Photo : Dominique Daher © Hairdressing : Eric Pfalzgraf
The best software choice for lone stylists, Solo lets you bill, book appointments, manage your stock list, your services and your client files.
If you swear by the web and don’t want to tie up funds, you’ll love our new baby! Air is the web version of Merlin: simple to use, accessible and innovative. Coming soon in 2017.
www.ikosoft.com 0121 288 0877
THE BUSINESS EDIT FROM INSIDE
MICHELLE YOUNG DKY HAIR, BANGOR
We’ve been investigated for a year. We run extra voluntary training classes for our young team members to help them advance – the investigating officer has said we need to back pay for them. I’m devastated that we are being targeted when this has been an industry standard for decades. We have three assistants on placement with us; their technical college pays them but we give them a little extra weekly as what they receive is mediocre. Our accountant does our payroll and has never advised us otherwise. The investigating officer has said that in doing this we have created a contract of employment, and therefore we need to pay National Minimum Wage, backdated to the beginning of their placement! If we have innocently done something wrong, correct us and let us make amends. Ask our staff how they feel – then judge us! I fear we may have to close down.
AN INSPECTOR CALLS WITH 39 OF THE 350 businesses ‘named and shamed’ for failing to pay National Minimum Wage from the hair and beauty sector – the highest number after hospitality and retail – salons are under the spotlight. The NHF has warned that HMRC is specifically targeting hair businesses, with the first ‘director of labour market enforcement’ overseeing the government’s tough approach. “We have worked with HMRC to help employers identify the most common reasons for inadvertently underpaying their staff and to put things right,” explains The NHF’s chief executive, Hilary Hall. It provides employment law support and specialist advice on wages, tax and VAT to help, and advises all salons check they know the right rate for all their employees and check birthdays carefully, and update payroll before 1 April. Yet a common complaint from salons under investigation is how unfair much of this is, when they have been trying to boost the basic income of young staff. “We feel the rate for apprentices is too low so we pay them 50 per cent more than is required,” explains Austen Thomson of Austen Thomson Hair. “However, we had a Saturday assistant and when she turned 18 we explained Saturday positions were for those at school or students. She went to college to study hairdressing and continued with us for her placement, and we continued to pay her the same daily rate.” She later took the salon to HMRC. “Had we paid nothing, we would have been fine but as
we chose to give her some money, we became responsible for her,” says Austen. “She won the case and we had to pay her and pay a fine.” The salon has learned from it, but “it does put us off getting involved again,” says Austen. “HMRC spent a lot of man hours on this case, which would not have been covered by our £400 payment and fine. They would be much better spending their time investigating the businesses that deliberately work the system.” Victor and Sandra Pajak at Headquarters Hair Salon emerged from an inspection last summer with a clean bill of health, but admit there are “tricky areas where even employers trying to be responsible can come unstuck”. It has a system that alerts them to key employee birthdays to ensure they move up to the correct rate, and they avoid all situations that require wage deductions. “We supply uniforms to our juniors for free; and we always pay for all training courses, event tickets, and memberships,” says Victor, “and we are clear about what’s “working time”. If we require employees to attend a meeting or training outside of their contracted hours – even just half an hour – then we pay them their hourly rate or give them equivalent paid time off in lieu. If it’s a voluntary event, however, then it’s up to them if they attend – and it’s unpaid.” “The actual inspection process can be stressful,” adds Sandra. “But we welcome it because we want to be sure we’re operating correctly. These inspections will ultimately result in a better reputation for the industry.”
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MORE AND MORE WOMEN ARE FACING HAIR LOSS BUT PHILIP KINGSLEY’S TRICHOTHERAPY CAN HELP YOU MAKE A DIFFERENCE WOMEN SUFFERING FROM hair loss have always lacked confidence about their appearance, but as social media plays an ever more powerful influence in people’s everyday lives, the significance of always looking and feeling one’s best is growing. For those suffering from hair loss, the hairdresser is the best place to look for support. Philip Kingsley understands the psychological importance of hair to women, and when they start to notice a difference in their hair volume, this importance becomes pronounced. So it is vital you know how to treat it. As a brand, Philip Kingsley has more than 60 years of experience, culminating in Trichotherapy, a three-step holistic approach to hair loss and reduced volume. With this award-winning regime, you can be confident you’re providing the best solution for your clients in the salon and at home.
WHY TRY TRICHOTHERAPY?
The three-part all-encompassing regime helps to reduce excessive hair shedding and includes:
Volumizing Protein Spray helps to reduce hair loss, and improve strength, condition and shine.*
TRICHO COMPLEX Vitamin and mineral supplements with essential nutrients to promote normal, healthy hair growth.
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Support your clients suffering from hair loss today with Philip Kingsley. To find out more, call 020 7237 7100 or visit philipkingsley.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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The Numbers Game THE STATS OF SALON LIFE – AND HOW YOU CAN IMPROVE YOUR FIGURES
SOCIAL MEDIA AND word of mouth are the big drivers of new clients, with the majority of the panel viewing newspaper advertising as “dead”. Anne Pileggi from Hairworks says: “I’m not sure who buys papers now anyway?”. Since opening a more exclusive, service-driven salon, The Retreat’s Beverley Bates doesn’t offer promotions as she feel this would devalue the brand. “The single method I use the most is storytelling and content marketing on social media – I’ve even found I’ve no need for a website,” she says.
of clients rebook on the day of an appointment
of clients have been with a salon for 5 years or more
Social media Word of mouth Client evenings
We have an online booking system and we’re currently building an app linking to it. We’ve seen a big increase in online bookings – up to five a day, especially on the men’s side. Social media and word of mouth work best for us ISAAK BRADING, MOD SALONS
WAS THE AVERAGE RETAIL IN FEBRUARY TURNOVER
WAS THE AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND (NET)
of salons oﬀer a loyalty scheme
What methods do you use to attract new clients?
AVERAGE TOTAL CLIENTS WERE NEW CLIENTS
BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2017 COMPARED WITH JANUARY 2017?
BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2017 COMPARED WITH FEBRUARY 2016?
“Attracting and keeping clients is a challenge that requires tools. In the UK, close to 100 per cent of Merlin clients use the appointment book to manage bookings. Client loyalty is a mission that shouldn’t be undertaken lightly. The percentage of clients who return after a postal or email campaign can vary greatly but return rates are generally between 18 and 34 per cent, which represents a huge gain and demonstrates the importance of streamlined communication! Merlin gives you an excellent overview of your clients – their average spends, average duration between visits, purchase history, habits and so on. This lets you target clients precisely for an efficient marketing strategy. Our clients confirm the best return rate is with postal offers. Our designers publish and send these campaigns. Good communication centred on client pick-up and retention needs an IT solution to seamlessly target, distribute and analyse.” Morgane Brosset is marketing director at software provider Ikosoft. Visit ikosoft.com
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Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
CLIENT ATTRACTION AND RETENTION
Change the system, change the result with 3·6·5 Education!
Life is a journey not a destination 3·6·5 is subscription based salon business coaching, providing powerful resultsfocused salon business education for Salon Owners, Managers, Stylists, Reservationists and Future Professionals. Our programme is ever-evolving to support you with the right tools to tackle key challenges that businesses like yours often face on the high street, steering you towards a stronger, more profitable future. The programme is delivered by our team of expert salon business coaches who have faced these challenges firsthand and overcome them within their own teams. Our knowledgeable team can help you measure the reality of how your business is performing and coach you on how you can drive it forward. 3·6·5 is a membership club with personality; you will benefit from meeting like-minded people in your industry who face similar trials in today’s economy but who know that dealing with them is perfectly possible. 3·6·5 is one of the many brands represented by The Distributor of Choice Salon Success.
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I N C O
T R A I N
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A P P R E N T N O W -
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LAST OF THE APPRENTICES
IS IT TIME TO CHANGE WHO WE TRAIN AND THE WAY WE TRAIN THEM?
KEN WEST IS DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5
SALON SMART IS one of my favourite events that I have had the privilege to speak at over recent years. I thought that I would take the opportunity to use this article to share some of the key focuses at this year’s event. Much is said about the current shortage of school leavers coming into our industry, especially those coming in at the age of 16. Young people are a new generation who want everything now and are used to getting it. We need to train these youngster differently but last year at Salon Smart I put forward the case and costings for training older people. Those people who have experienced the workplace and have made a conscious decision that a career in hairdressing is for them. To enable us to train these people without incurring much heavier costs we need to train in a different way. Historically we have provided long, slow and often ineffective training while using trainees as low cost labour in the salon. Harsh words you might say, but would you see a trainee accountant sweeping the floors. Or would you find them learning skills that could produce an income for their employers as soon as possible while also earning a wage that they could live on? Now is the time to consider what we actually need in our salons. Do we need people who want to learn fast and in whom we are prepared to invest the time and money to get them income-producing faster, or workers who are happy to carry out all of the support functions in a salon? There is no right or wrong but there is certainly different. I am already aware of salons that have no trainees, as the stylists
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do everything, and I am also aware of salons that employ only support workers. Self-employment is an issue that I am hearing about regularly and salons often see it as a way to eliminate the costs of employing a team. HMRC has a long list of criteria for what constitutes self-employment. Unfortunately most of the salons that I see operating selfemployment are sailing extremely close to the wind and not fully complying with these criteria. Personally I cannot see how you can create and nurture a team of people that truly work together with a common goal and future career opportunities if they are self-employed. Last year we saw intense activity by HMRC regarding National Minimum Wage (NMW) compliance, with many salons being named and shamed after irregularities were discovered following a NMW inspection. Most errors were down to a lack of knowledge, but the inspectors show no mercy. Fines can run into the thousands. Often salons make mistakes such as making assistants on minimum wage buy their own tools, or not paying for out of hours training or for travelling time to courses. These are traditional practices that are now unacceptable and pounced upon by inspectors. HMRC now has a focus on our industry and the previous two issues, self-employment and NMW, are being linked with VAT evasion and HMRC has already increased its budget for this year to focus on these area. My last key topic is differentiation. The real secret to your success is the word ‘experience’. Ask yourself this question what really sets your client experience apart from that of your competitors? Is the latch on distance between you and your competition so big that they cannot even see you let alone catch you up? The future is going to be interesting. Evolution means changing to suit the new environment. Salons that change will survive those that don’t will become extinct. That’s the natural way of things.
WITH PRICES STARTING FROM JUST
PER MONTH To fully understand how 3·6·5 can help you and to start your journey to a stronger business, we invite you to join us at a 3·6·5 Salon Management Masterclass. This is the first step to driving your business forward, where the 3·6·5 expert salon business coaches will deliver a day and a half of essential information to challenge your thinking and provide you with practical ideas to take back to your salon and implement immediately. You will also have the opportunity to spend time with existing members and our expert coaches to share further how 3·6·5 can help you and your team to grow. We guarantee that you will find the investment of just £199 + VAT including overnight accommodation worthwhile, and if not, we will happily refund you the cost excluding hotel accommodation.
the only thing we don’t coach you is how to cut hair.
PLEASE GIVE KEN FEEDBACK Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com
36-37_Ken West.indd 2
Successful Business Coaching for Salons
visit us online 365saloneducation.com 16/03/2017 10:19
LIZZY JACKSON PR & MARKETING MANAGER CLOUD NINE
WHAT IS THE ‘REVOLUTION’? We are visiting salons and swapping their old irons for new Cloud Nine ones. It started with our No Rules campaign. We believe hair types are as unique as fingerprints, and that there are no rules when it comes to styling. One temperature isn’t right for everyone. All stylists and salons need to do is share on social media why they think we should visit them next and swap their irons.
WHAT’S SO INNOVATIVE ABOUT CLOUD NINE? Everything we do is innovative – it’s why we sponsor the Most Wanted Award for Innovation! We invented the first induction heat roller system and the world’s first buttonless iron. The Touch is one of the world’s fastest irons, all you need to do is touch the plates together and its ready to use in fewer than 10 seconds.
WHAT’S COMING NEXT? Nothing that’s not exceptional. It’s not enough to make good products. Good is the new normal. That said, look out for something cool in May…
TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES!
SAM BURNETT, FOUNDER OF HARE & BONE AND KMS GLOBAL STYLE COUNCIL MEMBER You’ve worked in many areas of hair, which would you say is your favourite and why?
Marcus King, @hookerandyoung
They all complement and strengthen each other and I get so much joy out of all of them. I love the pace and energy backstage and the unpredictability of working in session. I also find being in the salon on a Saturday with my team and my clients is a happy place for me, over the weekend the PR machine stops, the phone and emails stop, I can go back to really focusing on my craft. Do you ever run out of inspiration? And if so, how or where do you go to reignite it?
Robbie Purves @arthaus_hair
It’s difficult to run out of inspiration as I live in central London and work with such talented, creative people everyday. I’m always working in different environments – backstage at shows, shoots, music events and videos, in different countries so I’m constantly influenced by different creatives and ideas. I’ll check out what exhibitions are on, this often means hitting up the V&A, Tate Modern and so on. Instagram and fashion magazines provide inspiration to me, too. What are your brand visions for the next two, five and 10 years?
For the next two to five years I want to maintain steady growth, maximise the full potential of our existing salon and team. Once I’m happy, we will stagger expansion to two more salons. We will achieve this by continued investment in education and development of our team. I am a firm believer in homegrown stylists so we invest a lot of time and effort in to our apprentice programme, these young hairstylists are our future. The salon is already a popular destination for VIPs including pop stars, TV personalities and even the occasional royal, so I intend to grow this side of the business by nurturing our growing relationships with top London hotels, record labels, management companies and fashion brands. I would love to see Hare & Bone expand into education and become an international name. Next issue: Sassoon international creative director, Mark Hayes. Tweet us at @creativeheadmag
is the percentage of beauty bookings made outside of salon hours. Nowadays clients have high expectations and want to be able to book a haircut anytime, anywhere and it can be challenging for businesses to meet this demand. top tip! Online booking systems can help. Appointment management software, such as Connect from Treatwell, lets salons take bookings even when they’re closed. It’s a much easier way to meet the demand.
To learn how Treatwell tools and insights could help your business, visit treatwell.co.uk/business or call 0330 100 3515
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SALONS AMONG WORST FOR FAILING TO PAY HAIRDRESSING HAS been identiﬁed as one of the worst three industries in the UK for failing to give employees the correct legal minimum wages. Hairdressing, retail and hospitality were the most common offenders in a list of 359 ﬁrms ‘named and shamed’ by the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (DBEIS) for failing to pay either the correct National Minimum Wage rate or, for workers aged 25 or over, the National Living Wage. The DBEIS has also unveiled an advertising campaign to help raise knowledge and awareness among low paid workers of their rights ahead of minimum and living wage rates going up this month. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said she was “disappointed” that so many offenders came from within the industry. She said: “We have repeatedly warned that HMRC is speciﬁcally targeting hair and beauty businesses, with additional resources including the ﬁrst ever director of labour market enforcement to oversee the government’s tough new approach.” The NHF has a downloadable National Minimum Wage Guide for members, and is also running a series of business ‘surgeries’ throughout the year on apprenticeships, including the common reasons why employers get payments wrong, such as deductions for uniforms, scissors and other equipment. From this month the National Living Wage (for over-25s) and National Minimum Wage hourly rates will be: NATIONAL LIVING WAGE (AGE 25 AND OVER) £7.50 NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE, 21-24 £7.05 NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE, 18-20 £5.60 NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE, UNDER 18 £4.05 APPRENTICE* £3.50 *Apprentice wage applies to those aged 16-18 on a recognised apprenticeship, or those aged 19 or over who are in the first year of an apprenticeship
CHANCELLOR LOOKS TO HELP SMALL BUSINESS CHANCELLOR OF THE EXCHEQUER Philip Hammond (above) has pledged in the Budget to help small businesses facing the loss of Small Business Rate Relief from April. Any increases in rates bills because of the revaluation of the tax on business properties will be capped to a maximum of £600, and local authorities will be given £300m to set up special funds to support “individual hard cases”, he said. Hilary Hall chief executive of the NHF, said: “Knowing there will now be a cap on any increase in their bill will be reassuring for many small businesses facing real hardship because of suddenly finding themselves ineligible for Small Business Rate Relief. However, we are disappointed that the chancellor did not use this opportunity to set out any plan for a more fundamental reform of business rates.” The NHF also gave a cautious welcome to the reform of technical education, especially the establishment of new ‘T-levels’ for 16-19 year olds and a requirement for a “high quality” three-month work placement for every student. “The idea of mandatory work placements is also positive, but we’d like to see the detail of how these will work in practice,” said Hilary. The chancellor, however, was forced to back down from a planned change to National Insurance Contributions (NICs) for the self-employed. Class 2 NICs (paid by those making a profit of more than £5,965 The 75th a year) will still be abolished from April 2018 but a plan to Anniversary NHF are increase Class 4 NICs (paid by those making a profit of Business Awards nine are more than £8,060 a year) by 1 per to 10 per cent and then now open! There you can categories where your hair again in 2019 was announced but then scrapped. at sets
Council parking profits up
showcase wh s apart. or beauty businesfo/ f.in nh Go to ds nhfbusinessawar for details
THE AMOUNT OF MONEY made by councils in England from parking charges and fines rose by more than £60m in the past year. The study by the RAC Foundation concluded local authorities made a profit of £756m from parking charges in 2015/16, a nine per cent increase on 2014/15, when councils made a surplus of £693m from their parking. Many salons and barbershops, especially those in city centres or in locations where parking is hard to come by, complain that the rising cost of parking, as well as tough fines, penalties and enforcement, can all combine to put clients off visiting salons.
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 40
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W O R G
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THE RIGHT REASONS IS ECTED AND CAN BE SEEN FOR ALL NN CO IS ON SAL UR YO E SUR G UR BUSINESS MAKIN E AND SOCIAL MEDIA TO HELP YO LIN ON USE TO W HO S EAL REV Y PARAMOUNT. MINDBOD
SOCIAL MEDIA AND SMARTPHONES have changed the way consumers make purchasing decisions. Before they even step through your doors, they’ve researched your salon. This might sound scary, but it’s actually a brilliant opportunity to promote your business, and MINDBODY can help. The software company knows online booking saves time for your receptionist and your clients, as well as allowing 24hour booking. Free up your reception desk and attract new clients with MINDBODY’s online booking system and the advanced marketing tools. With so many social media sites to choose from, how do you determine what’s best for your salon? According to MINDBODY, Facebook is best for building brand loyalty, Instagram works to create a salon’s visual identity, while Twitter allows for instant updates and client interactions. Each salon is different and not all social media options will be best for your salon, but whatever you choose, MINDBODY can help make it work for you. With the software company’s custom-branded app and web solutions, you can fully brand your customers’ online experiences from web to social to mobile. You can also get listed on the MINDBODY app, where millions of people are booking sessions at their favorite businesses, including salons and spas, and sharing reviews.
To get online and social media working for you and your salon, visit mindbodyonline.com CREATIVE HEAD
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range of products that can be layered and cocktailed together without the fear of ever being too much. From this range, Tecni.ART Pli is L’Oréal Professionnel’s number one favourite backstage. Here’s why: • The heat-activated memory spray shapes, grips and holds. • It’s often referred to as a foundation for hair. • Perfect for blow-drys, curls, finger waves and sets. • You can ‘undo’ hairstyles with Pli by blasting hair with a hairdryer or warming it in your hands and pressing it into the hair for an undone, DIY feel. So the secret’s out – Tecni.ART Pli is an essential the pros can’t live without. And now you can recreate the latest catwalk hair trends in your salon quickly and easily thanks to Tecni.ART Pli.
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INSTANT ATTRACTION CLUELESS WHEN IT COMES TO GRABBING THE ATTENTION OF MILLENNIALS? WELLA PROFESSIONALS CAN MAKE YOUR SALON MORE APPEALING TO THIS GENERATION USING THE ONE TOOL THEY CAN’T IGNORE: SOCIAL MEDIA
THE GENERATION AGED 18 to 34 are the Millennials. They are united by an increased use, and familiarity with, communications, media and digital technologies. Never before has a generation been so connected, so aware of the world around them and so informed. Wella Professionals’ newest social media campaign #stylistsdoitbetter is aimed directly at this group. It appeals to the Millennials’ love of selfies while enabling the stylist or colourist to shout out about what they do. Maybe you’ve created a colour on a client you’re super-proud of or a great up-do that needs shouting about – this campaign gives you the perfect platform to show off your skills. All you have to do is take a picture of yourself with your client and their finished look and post it on Instagram using the hashtag #stylistsdoitbetter and make sure your client gets involved too!
KNOW WHAT MILLENNIALS WANT
That’s social media taken care of, but what about actually getting those clients through your salon door? First, you have
to understand them before you can attract them. They’re comfortable being the DIY generation, meaning they’re more likely to colour hair at home – it costs less. They also have a fear of commitment and won’t come in for colour treatments. The good news is that they have become increasingly interested in trying colour, especially when the service requires less commitment such as balayage, so suggest quick, low commitment colour techniques such as Color Touch or Color Fresh by Wella Professionals. Their most desired look is long, thick hair with naturallooking colour (thank all those beautifully posed Instagram profiles for that). Natural is also important to them when it comes to the products they put on their hair and skin.
MAKE IT ENJOYABLE
This savvy generation won’t part with their money easily, so offer them the full salon experience as they will splash their cash on experience they can see has clear value. Make their
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
SHARE SELFIES WITH YOUR CLIENTS WITH #STYLISTSDOITBETTER
time in the salon a chance for them to get pampered rather than just a cut that they have to have by offering blow-drys, head massages, refreshments and a variety of magazines, in a relaxing environment with good music. You can also make them feel valued by offering add-on services or top-ups – choose something that doesn’t cost you anything, but will prompt a return visit. A 10 per cent discount on their next colour or a free glossing service after four weeks to keep their colour topped up means you will not only get them back within a month, they will be more likely to book in for another cut, colour or blow-dry at the same time as everyone loves to feel they’re getting something for nothing! When it comes to treatments and services, suggest those that are designed to encourage hair growth or will add volume and shine – ones that will help them achieve exactly what they want.
BE THE EXPERT THEY NEED
For those who have previously coloured at home, be the colour expert that you are and show them how they can change their look to be more personalised. If it’s natural-looking colour they desire, use ILLUMINA COLOR by Wella Professionals for that sheer, luminous finish. This particularly appeals to the at-home colourist who uses colour to express their personality. And for Millennials not comfortable with colour, provide an in-depth consultation every time they come to your salon – an incredible 70 per cent of people who have an in-depth consultation go on to book a colour service. With hair placing last after skincare and make-up when it comes to Millennials’ beauty regimes, it’s clear salons need to up their game to attract this demographic’s attention. Getting involved in Wella Professionals’ #stylistsdoitbetter campaign and following the brand’s advice is a great start.
So make sure your salon can offer what Millennials want, contact your Wella account manager, call 01202 595700 or visit wellaprofessionals.co.uk
s t s i Art
SPEND AN EVENING BEING INSPIRED WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS AT THE ALL NEW ICONS. AN EXCLUSIVE VIEW WITH D&J AMBROSE & HOB ACADEMY WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS bringing you an evening of fun, excitement and inspiration with ICONS. An Exclusive View with D&J Ambrose and HOB Academy, featuring the TrendVision Award Regional Heats. The event is a date in the diary not to be missed as Wella promises an evening like no other! While the evening still hosts the TrendVision Award Regional Heats, the event is open to everyone even if you’re not a TrendVision Award entrant, and features shows from incredible guest artists.
Who wouldn’t want to spend an evening with awardwinning hairdressers Darren Ambrose and Akin Konizi? Book your ticket now and you’ll be treated to two iconic guest artist shows from D&J Ambrose and HOB Academy. The evening includes exclusive collections, an inspirational catwalk show and models presentation, and an exploration of the latest hair and make-up trends. You’ll also be the first to discover the future icons as the Regional Heat winners are revealed in an exciting finale. It’s a night out you can’t afford to miss!
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
rose b m A J D& m a e T t r A
HOB Academy Art Team
“THIS IS A WONDERFUL OPPORTUNITY TO SEE SOME OF THE GREATEST TALENT IN OUR INDUSTRY PRESENT THEIR LATEST COLLECTIONS. WE HAVE A REALLY INSPIRING SHOW LINED UP AND WE CAN’T WAIT TO SHARE IT WITH EVERYONE”
“EXPECT INSPIRING HAIR, A SHOW TO REMEMBER AND AN ABUNDANCE OF ENERGY. I LOVE BEING PART OF THE BUILD-UP TO TRENDVISION AWARD – IT’S THE MOST EXCITING COMPETITION IN OUR INDUSTRY AND I AM CONSTANTLY IMPRESSED BY THE STANDARD OF WORK THAT I SEE”
DARREN AMBROSE, D&J AMBROSE
AKIN KONIZI, HOB ACADEMY
NEED TO KNOW
MON 8 MAY – MIDLANDS NOTTINGHAM, EMCC
TUES 9 MAY – NORTH MANCHESTER, Hilton Deansgate
OFFER NEW! EARLY BIRD . VAT FOR ANY TICKETS ARE £30 EACH EXC SALON, ANY NUMBER OF TICKETS, UP TO ONE MONTH BEFORE EACH EVENT, NORMALLY £35 EACH EXC. VAT
WED 10 MAY – SCOTLAND & NORTH EAST GLASGOW, Hilton Glasgow MON 15 MAY – SOUTH LONDON, Grand Connaught Rooms
TVA COMPETITOR OFFER
ts are £30 Competitor ticke d can be each excl VAT an e, any tim booked at any , for ts ke tic number of only ns lo sa or competit
BOOK IT! Call 0845 601 8128; firstname.lastname@example.org To find out more, visit wella.co.uk/trendvision. For the latest TrendVision Award news follow @wellapro #mytvajourney #wellaUK CREATIVE HEAD
FROM GUCCI AND JARED LETO TO BARBIE-PINK LOOS – WELCOME TO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF LARRY KING AS HE UNVEILS HIS EPONYMOUS LONDON HANGOUT 56
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Opposite page and this page, top row left and right: Larry at Oliver Spencer A/W17 for London Fashion Week Men’s. Top row centre: the Delevingne sisters for Porter. Bottom row from left: with Zayn Malik for American GQ, David Gandy at the salon launch, Tatler shoot, and Jared Leto in Gucci for American GQ Style. Below inset: with Oscar nominee Ruth Negga
EVERY SO OFTEN, a salon opens that grabs the attention of the media and general public – it might be because of the celebs the owner has styled (think George Northwood’s Alexa Chung cool) or the original services that are on offer (think of the dip-dye raw edge of Bleach London back in 2010). This year, the salon that’s lighting up social media is Larry King. Larry’s got the pedigree (he has the fashion coolness of a Hershesons background as well as a Toni&Guy heritage) and he’s got the celebs (his opening party was the stuff Daily Mail stories are made of – and David Gandy even helped build the salon, for goodness’ sake!). He’s cleverly chosen a location that doesn’t have another big name in its midst yet has plenty of potential clients willing to pay for a bit of pampering – London’s South Kensington. But that’s fused with an obvious East End cool once you’re through the West End exterior – Larry describes the design as “industrial elegance”, all grey shades, bespoke granite work stations, Takara Belmont chairs and white tiles inspired by old pie and mash shops married with original art in the window. As he and his wife find more pieces, the salon’s look will evolve further. There’s also a generous smattering of humour – upstairs you’ll find a “loo with a view” (an open US highway
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image, perfect for selfies) while downstairs is a toilet that would be well suited within Barbie’s Dream House. From ceiling to floor, every inch is pink. Larry has worked closely with his wife Laura, a lingerie designer, to get his salon perfect, along with interior designer Elizabeth Cook from New Builds. Pretty much everything that was sketched on the original plans has made it into the final building and Larry continually adds eclectic furniture, while a communal sofa and table downstairs will create an area that can be hired out for private parties. Beyond how it looks, Larry has been laser-focused on how it should feel. “It’s not just about getting your hair done, it’s about hanging out, having a coffee, meeting your mates while they’re getting a blow-dry,” he explains. “I want this to be a hangout, a community.” All this is indicative of the genuinely friendly atmosphere clients will find once inside – there’s no West London stuffiness or too-cool-forschool vibes either. And those clients will be a real mix – there’s a number of ‘secret’ doors to ferry in celebs and VIPs linked to neighbours, the South Kensington Club, where clients can also order from the kitchen. Very handy when your clientele includes Gandy, Lottie Moss and Pixie Lott. Some of those clients turned up to the launch
Clockwise from top left: the back wash, the salon reception, the pink toilet snapped by Laura King, the salon styling stations, the ‘loo with a view’. Below inset: sparring with David Gandy
party, an affair that Larry describes with a chuckle as “mental”. “I was told to invite 400 people in the hope that 250 would turn up. We got 380! You couldn’t move. Such an overwhelming amount of support – I was a bit like a rabbit in headlights. Even now I have to stop when I think about it…” With his session career skyrocketing in recent years – think Karlie Kloss, Irina Shayk for Russian Vogue and Gucci-clad Jared Leto – it might be a temptation to let his team do all the hard work at the salon while he jets around, but he’s committed. Many of his famous clients come to him at his new London home – his Instagram features Preacher star Dominic Cooper larking around with a Dyson dryer and his salon is the first to be kitted out by the ultraexpensive tools, while his ambassador role with Redken sees this venue becoming a new flagship for the brand. A genuine buzz is already evident. The 15-strong team is a big part of that, a gathering of hip talents that bring a very modern eye to hairdressing, such as 2016 It Girl Amy Fish and It Girl finalist Harriet Muldoon’s Colour Palette menu. You’ll also find Amy’s husband Scott Ade, adored on Instagram for the Thickening Haircut he created at Hershesons. Louis Cowley, whom Larry describes as his “best buddy and inspiration”, has been by
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King’s side through four different salons. It’s clear as much as Larry loves his team, the feeling is absolutely mutual. “When I was at Toni&Guy the art team drove the salon. That’s what I want,” he says. “I don’t want it to be about me – my team is incredible and I want them to have the opportunities to do what they want, I’ll get behind them. You should support the ambitious. Nothing would make me prouder than seeing them open their own salons one day…” He laughs when it’s suggested, but there is a smidgen of a paternal vibe about 38-year-old Larry, blended in with his Essex boy charm. He’s got two daughters at home so it’s easy to see why he might care that little bit more about the young talents working for him. But he stresses that pushing his team and working together across the industry, is a real goal. “It often feels to me that while the hairdressing industry talks about us being together, working together, there is a real sense of competition. It shouldn’t be about that,” he says, choosing his words carefully. “Look, London has more than eight million people; no one can cut everyone’s hair, there’s enough space to be a part of it. I love that someone like Adam Reed is so supportive of everybody, he screams it out. That’s how we should be.”
One step d
Go further than cut and colour to really boost your client loyalty and your revenue – get to grips with innovative extras
IT’S NO SECRET that the happier a client is when they leave your salon, the more likely they are to come back. It makes sense to offer them as much as possible, from colour protection to luxurious treatments and a perfectly tailored aftercare plan. But clients can be wary of adding extra services to an appointment as they worry about cost and time. How can you make sure they know what they’re getting is worth it? “We always make sure the guest is educated and salonlanguage barriers are broken down,” explains Jimmy Goodwin, customer communications manager at The Chapel. “By understanding how our hair services work, a guest can make their own choices, while also proving they can trust us.” And the language you use with clients should be different from how you talk to other hairdressers, says Madeline Murphy, colour director at Ena Salon. “Technicians use the term ‘re-bonding’ and ‘restructuring’, but you should talk about it as a safer way for clients to have their hair coloured and keep the condition,” she explains. “I find most clients these days have already heard about Olaplex, so it makes it easier to up-sell.” We all know that hairdressers are great at being creative, so it’s not surprising that some salons are adopting imaginative ways to suggest their clients upgrade. Last year Headmasters launched the Hair Paper, which arrives alongside their drink as some reading material during their appointment – but it also doubles up as a clever way to promote add-on services. Once you have started that conversation, you can get into the specifics of various services in a straightforward way. Steve Turner of Salon 6 and director of MyHairDressers.com,
explains: “Smoothing treatments like The First Shampoo reduce the curl and the frizz so when the client does their hair at home, it’s far quicker and they get a better result. If you tell a client they can save 15 to 20 minutes every day, the benefit far outweighs the cost of the treatment.” It’s worth getting potential clients in to the salon, to see results for themselves. “The best way to start your smoothing business is a client awareness night, where you invite your most challenged clients and ask one of them to be the model,” says Peter Tobolski, managing director for Fresh Approach, distributor of Nanokeratin System. “Then make sure you have images of all your before and after looks.” Some canny salons are increasingly building bonding services into the price of colour. “We have changed our pricing so that all global pre-lighteners have Smartbond built into the price so we can use it without the client having to give permission for the extra charge,” explains Karen Dodds, co-founder of Cutting Room Creative. “When launching Smartbond, we made sure that all the team had a Smartbond application on their own hair during the first week – we’ve found this is the best way to get them enthused about a new product. And in the first three months, we did more than 370 Smartbond treatments.” And of course, social media is important for getting the message out there. “All the social media channels can be used as the results are so visual,” adds Peter. “Social media competitions are a great tool – for example, offer six treatments for free and give everyone else that takes part in the competition gets a voucher for £50 off the service.”
Image courtesy of The First Shampoo CREATIVE HEAD
Smartbond finish by Lloyd Court at Seanhanna Olaplex finish by @hairbychrissy Olaplex finish by @hairbyjustineeve Kim Kardashian used Olaplex when going blonde Nanokeratin System finish by @jameslearhairdressing
Smartbond finish by Alan Edwards Smartbond finish by Mario Charalambous, Richard Ward Hair & Metropsa Olaplex finish by @emrekaramanofficial Nanokeratin System
Olaplex finish by @alennmj
Colour additives According to L’Oréal Professionnel, 59 per cent of the UK population see damage as a key hair concern. This is reflected in the explosion of colour additives in the last year, with a wide variety of brands promising to make colour safer and more effective. Amazing colour is only amazing if the hair remains in good condition, so suggest that your colour clients make the upgrade. The first to market, Olaplex created huge attention when it launched, and has helped clients understand what colour additives can actually do (that Kim Kardashian mention on social media didn’t hurt, either). It’s a three-step service that locates breakage and ‘fixes it’. The first step is mixed with colour to minimise damage as it happens, the second perfects hair quality and the third is taken home. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Smartbond protects hair bonds during the colouring process, and it also keeps the hair fibre strong. It has created a service menu to help salons inject its magic into a number of options. Montibello’s Silaplex not only adds strength to hair during chemical processes, it also gives an injection of shine and suppleness – use it during colouring, or during waving or straightening treatments. And Fibreplex from Schwarzkopf Professional interlinks with hair fibres to keep it intact and supple with bold colour. So how much difference do additives make to the till? ASP Vitaplex can be used during colouring and lightening to reduce damage while boosting colour – if one stylist offers it as an add-on for £20 and does just five clients a week, you could see an extra £3,060 coming into your salon a year.
Smoothing services Research by Goldwell found that 60 per cent of salon clients struggle with frizzy hair, so adding a smoothing service to your menu is a no-brainer. Nanokeratin System has a host of treatments to choose from to ensure there is the perfect smoothing system for every client in your chair. It has launched nanoSmooth pure – available for natural, coloured and blonde hair, it creates an outer foundation on hair to protect it from damage while making hair super sleek. The First Shampoo uses five amino acids which, when left on the hair for 20 minutes, penetrate into the hair shaft and react together to change the molecular structure of the hair bond when activated by heat. The results leave the hair not only straight and de-frizzed, but in great condition too, and as it’s the ‘first’ to be applied as just a shampoo, it cuts down the process time dramatically and can last up to three months. Goldwell’s Kerasilk keratin treatment can be customised with two components, so your clients get the result they want, whether their hair is curly, wavy or full of frizz.
Prescriptive treatments There’s plenty more on offer to give clients totally customised hair solutions. The Kérastase Fusiodose ritual begins with a hair and scalp Extra profiling session before the stylist creates the perfect treatment ns treatments mea blend. Hair can be plumped, reconstructed or softened and it gets so – e tim extra backwash to work in just five minutes. System Professional EnergyCode th wi e bl make it comforta d an ), Mapping from Wella Professionals is also tailored to each client; m .co ed db Headbeds (hea re su it begins with a consultation to fully understand the hair, before es pr r te double the wa th wi e the treatments begin. And with more than 50 different take-home ag st wa to reduce ad, He er products, you can create a bespoke aftercare plan, too. ow Sh ds Ecohea (ecoheads.com)
Shampoo Brand new technology formulated in Brazil, ‘’The First’’ shampoo contains five acids which when activated by heat, react together inside the hair to change the molecular structure of the bonds leaving the hair not only straight and smooth but also in fantastic condition. Straightens and defrizzes Faster than any other straightener No need for specialist aftercare products Lasts up to 3 months No waiting time for the first wash Colour hair the same day Formaldehyde free Economical Fantastic conditioning results Compatible with all chemicals
NEW &IVE S U L C X E AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN THE UK FROM Alan Howard Unit 2 Hamilton Road S. Park Business Park Stockport SK1 2AE 0161 968 4040 email@example.com
Ultimate Hair & Beauty 40 Progress Road Leigh-On-Sea Essex SS9 5PR 01702 520 000 tenderlovinhair.co.uk p r o f e s s i o n a l
Make take y a p home
Let your clients keep up the good work and take these beauties away with them
Make the smoothness last for longer – Goldwell offers Kerasilk Control Rich and Ultra Rich ranges of aftercare, including an oil, masks and the cult Silk Spray, which delivers an intense hit of conditioning goodness.
Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector is to be used once a week and contains the same active ingredients as the in-salon treatments. It keeps breakage at bay, and is perfect for clients who have had heavy bleaching.
RRP FROM £16
ASP Vitaplex Bond Preserver reinforces the benefits of the in-salon treatments, helping strengthen hair between appointments to leave it soft and shiny.
Step three of L’Oréal Professionnel’s Smartbond programme is an easy way for clients to keep their salon results going. All they have to do is use the conditioner every three shampoos.
Silaplex 3 Bond Protector is the final step in Montibello’s regime – clients can keep their hair healthy at home and each portion is measured out ready to be used.
RRP £16.99 montibello.com
Clients can prolong their Nanokeratin System nanoSmooth pure treatment with the specially formulated shampoos and masks for natural, coloured and blonde hair.
RRP FROM £29.25 freshapproach. uk.com
Once your client has had their System Professional Energycode mapped, they can continue the experience by taking their carefully matched prescription of products home.
Fibreplex shampoo from Schwarzkopf Professional gently cleanses while the Fibreplex No.3 Bond Maintainer locks in colour and helps maintain healthy hair and shield it from damage.
RRP FROM £20.50
RRP SHAMPOO £11.75, BOND MAINTAINER £13.25
HAIR HAPPINESS TM
“Everything has a purpose” Leslie Spears
You made it happen... again
Photo: Paul Wilkinson
You were born to win
“...and you do”
You were born to make a difference. You deserve to cross the line and hear The fanfare play. Life is beautiful, life is tough and sometimes Very wrong, but that’s the song. Beauty to be enjoyed and stored, for There are days in void. The tough develops our strengths and After a while, sometimes makes sense. The flower of inner peace grows for only Those who cultivate compassion. Life is competitive; born unequal all were we. Some with gifts galore, others simply Have to chore. We have to learn to score to win, our talents And tenacity tested. Without courage, challenge is someone else’s Dream, you have to play to win. Winners focus on what they want. Losers focus on what they don’t and live regret. For what you focus on, Is what you get. You should remember always, always; You were born to win. You were born to make a difference.
‘Thank You’ to: Aston & Fincher; Salon Promotions; Xpert Professional; Joy Limited & Star Qualities. © 2016, Leslie Spears. All Rights Reserved.
Because of You...
NOW 10,000 people can see
Photos: courtesy The Fred Hollows Foundation | www.hollows.org
A Special ‘Thank You’ to You and Your Clients Together, ‘We Changed 10,000 Lives & Visions’
“Nobody walks in the shadow of goodness “for the light comes from within.” © 2016, Leslie Spears. All Rights Reserved.
Love, Learn, Grow and Build Your Business LOVE: Mind-set. When we are happy,
ACHIEVE: Worthy challenges and
we notice the happy songs. When we are
sad, we notice the sad things. When you
make up your mind to want something
TEACH: To teach is an innate part
of nature: Parent to offspring, how to
I am the equivalent of a
survive. Teacher to student. Master to
single grain of sand on the beach of the
apprentice and intern. You help change
personal, you notice almost everything
world’s vastness. The world has horrors
the world when you teach. You give back to
which will help you achieve it. Love being
galore, what difference can I make? Was
the source of your personal development.
part of something special.
it, Chade Meng Tan who said; if you can
Therein lies hope.
Love, your greatest emotional energy.
make something work for the individual
SHARE: To share is the spirit of hope
Love what you do and the people with
and business, you can change the world?
for a better world. The satisfaction of
whom you do it and you’ll never work
Maybe, just maybe, there is hope. Instead
knowing your gift to another, someone less
fortunate than ourselves, does change their world
LEARN: Unleash your ‘growth
and yours too. Living is
giving, all is one. You can
tap into the ‘Infinite You’; the ‘Unlimited You’.
build a business with the
energies of; Love, Learn,
love to learn, we hate to
Grow, Achieve, Improve,
be taught. The world does not owe you a living. You
Teach and Share wisely.
owe the world the best
Yes, we work not for
possible you. “Put the pigs
of life to work.” Every day,
Moroccanoil and Olaplex.
behaviour. University of
Together, we have again
Life. Success leaves clues.
“Copy the good and not
amazing ‘Fred Hollows
Photos: courtesy The Fred Hollows Foundation | www.hollows.org
for working with
GROW: A mind-set to grow yourself
of just business, how about adding to the
for the cause of preventable blindness.
will change your world. Do not see
concept of “G&G”: Goodness and Good
Now, because of You, 10,000 people can
problems, seek solutions. Do not see what
business? Team power, we work together,
see nature, their families, their food,
is, always look for what can be. The world
contribute and help make a difference.
is full of opportunities. They are all around you, just waiting for you, your vision, your
IMPROVE: To improve is the spirit
their hand in front of their face and a brighter future. We believe in the concept of G&G, Goodness and Good business.
of the artist, musician, writer who live to
Together, we help change lives and
make each endeavour better than the last.
visions. If it is not fun or meaningful, why
world. “Personkind, live not for yourself
It is the spirit of the ‘true professional’,
would we do it?
alone.” All is one: Living is for giving.
doctor, pilot, surgeon and teacher; who
Business: Grow people, grow wealth and
work every day, to just keep getting better
share wisely; the rest is detail.
clarity, your power to see clearly the vision of what you want for yourself and a better
© 2016, Leslie Spears. All Rights Reserved.
Leslie Spears Artist, Business Architect & Educator
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THE BEACH IS
K C BA
BEACH BABE HAIR IS ALWAYS POPULAR COME SUMMER, BUT IT’S BIGGER, BETTER AND BEACHIER THIS SEASON. HELP CLIENTS GET THAT SEXY, SUMMER VIBE WITHOUT WORRYING ABOUT SUNSTRESSED STRANDS WITH BED HEAD TOTALLY BEACHIN’ AND ITS NEW SUMMER STYLER FUN-FILLED SUNNY days and sweaty, up-all-night parties are what summer is made for, but relentless humidity, heatwaves, and sea and pool water are the stuff of nightmares. Help a client out and give them Bed Head Totally Beachin’ range by TIGI. Bed Head by TIGI has put its range though the Beachin’ Torture Test where each summer haircare formula is put in a full-on simulation of the kind of environment that causes major damage, frizzy, dry hair to test against the biggest holiday hair stressors – sea water, pool water, humidity and styling. The results? Bed Head’s Totally Beachin’ range totally wins on all counts.
The Totally Beachin’ Shampoo and Conditioner are colour safe and designed for all hair types, cleansing beach and pool build up, while protecting from summer causes of damage. And now your clients can get fabulous holiday hair even when they’re not sunning themselves on the beach with the new Bed Head Totally Beachin’ Queen Beach Salt-Infused Texture Spray. This fast-dry spray, infused with Balinese sea salt, leaves hair with long-lasting body and 24-hour ‘beachy’ texture for the ultimate surf babe look. So let your clients do summer their way with Bed Head Totally Beachin’.
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
KEEP BEA CHIN'
CREATE THAT BEAUTIFUL BEACH LOOK IN FIVE SIMPLE STEPS
Spray QUEEN BEACH Salt Infused Texture Spray all over damp hair, focusing on mid-lengths to ends.
Scrunch hair and either leave to air dry or rough dry with a hairdryer (using a diffuser will give even more beachy waves).
STEP 1. Use
Shampoo and Conditioner to cleanse and moisturise beach hair. Mist BEACH BOUND Protection Spray all over strands for protection and repair.
STEP 4. Tong random sections with a large
barrel wand to add unperfected waves.
Deconstruct the style even further to get real beachy texture and spray more QUEEN BEACH on from a distance if you want an even more texturised look.
#TheBeachIsBack with Bed Head Totally Beachin’ by TIGI. To find out more, call 0844 844 0944 or visit bedhead.com. Follow @bedheadbytigi on Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat #yourhairyourway #bedheadbytigi 69
Francesca King, Daniel Rymer and Drue Mock
MEET OUR BARBERSHOP MAKEOVER WINNER
DANIEL RYMER MALE GROOMING WON A BARBERSHOP OVERHAUL COURTESY OF AVEDA, ALONGSIDE TOP-NOTCH EDUCATION AND SUPPORT. WE REVEAL WHERE DANIEL HOPES HIS PARTNERSHIP WITH THE HOLISITC HAIRCARE BRAND WILL TAKE HIM IT’S NOT OFTEN the chance to win a makeover from a major brand like Aveda comes along – and the sheer scale of entries we received for our competition, in conjunction with the brand, was overwhelming. Aveda then had the difficult task of choosing a winner. It wanted a partner who shared its vision for the future, keen to grow and develop a profitable, sustainable business. It found its match in Daniel Rymer Male Grooming in Bristol. When owner Daniel found out he’d won, he was overjoyed and maybe just a little bit panicked, as he explained: “The barbershop’s
70-71_Aveda 3.indd 1
been my baby and it was hard to think everything I had built would change.” Fortunately, Aveda soon put his mind to rest as the makeover and new partnership would very much be a collaborative one. Aveda was keen to help Daniel make the most of his barbershop while keeping the overall feel of the space he had worked so hard on. “Aveda has been great support so far, reassuring me that there is nothing to panic about,” he says. “The brand has involved me in every step of the way. I feel we have got the look of the shop just right.” But what part of the makeover does Daniel
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
LIKE WHAT YOU SEE? DISCOVER WHAT AVEDA CAN DO FOR YOU…
think has had the most impact? “It’s got to be the new lighting,” he enthuses. “I didn’t realise how poor it was before as we had got used to the old lights, particularly around the retail area. The products really stand out and look great.” Alongside the makeover, Daniel is most looking forward to garnering access to the Aveda education courses and the team has already spent two days in London with Aveda’s master barber, Stel Nicolaou, on a men’s core cutting course. “The training was exactly what I wanted for my team to help push and challenge them,” says Daniel.
He’s also excited to finally share Aveda’s products with his clients, after sampling them for months. “Clients have loved the products and I can’t wait to finally have them on sale,” Daniel adds. “I’m so happy to feel a part of something and my team and I all look forward to growing with the brand.” Hannah Dixon, marketing manager for Aveda UK and Ireland, adds: “We’re so proud and excited to be working with Daniel Rymer, he is a perfect fit with Aveda Men. Our digital and social marketing business training is already inspiring his team and attracting new clients.”
A holistic haircare brand, Aveda can give your salon the opportunity to offer clients a truly unforgettable experience that is more than just a haircut. Partner with Aveda and you will have a dedicated Salon Development Partner to create a unique business support programme that will help you to accelerate growth, alongside complimentary educational courses at the Aveda Academy – it’s like having a management consultant with industry expertise, but for free! And let’s not forget the feel-good factor of partnering with Aveda. Aveda cares for the world, from the products it makes to the ways in which it gives back to society, partnering with non-profit organisations whose work supports its commitment to social and environmental improvement.
DISCOVER WHAT AVEDA CAN DO FOR YOU TODAY. CALL 0370 192 5650 OR VISIT AVEDA.CO.UK/GROW CREATIVE HEAD
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THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED 72
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
TO KEEP GREY looking cool and not simply prematurely aged, you need a range that goes above and beyond. Fudge Professional’s Headpaint colour line promises to be what all colourists need to create bespoke shades over pre-lightened hair with Ash Infusions, a smoky capsule range of enhancing and neutralising toners. “Seeing that the grey/silver trend is so popular, we wanted to create our own bespoke tones and tested them vigorously to ensure that we were completely happy with the complementary tones and the wash out/fade effect also,” explains Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional. “We have launched Graphite hue, which is a deep grey; Silver Lilac, a soft smoky lilac/grey; and Rose Quartz, which is a soft, smoky pink amethyst. Tracy explains these new shades can also be mixed with each other, as well as the whole of the Headpaint portfolio. “The colour palette options are limitless,” she says. But she advises that, as they are toners, the development time needs to be watched closely. “It can be anything from two to 30 minutes, depending on the desired colour,” she adds. To get the most out of Ash Infusions, Tracy suggests using whole head bleach toners to create beautiful greys, silvers and pinky lilacs, but your technique on application can be limitless. “You can be as creative as you like with adding sections of all colours to suit the haircut. Also, the tones can be added to partial bleached hair within the natural or tinted base colour. A favourite technique is Graphic Balayage, created by the X-presion Creative Team, used on pre-lightened hair applied in a graphic/pixelated format through the longer lengths and finished with the new Ash Infusions,” says Tracy. The X-presion Creative Team is known for its creative collaborations so it’s no surprise that the team has already started testing out the new Ash Infusions. Discover how they got involved with Fudge Professional overleaf and see the results of the collaboration, from page 76.
GETTING THE COOLER SHADES OF GREY ‘JUST SO’ FOR CLIENTS CAN BE TRICKY. TRACY HAYES OF FUDGE PROFESSIONAL EXPLAINS WHY NEW HEADPAINT ASH INFUSIONS ARE UP TO THE JOB
BEHIND FUDGE PROFESSIONAL’S HEADPAINT Versatile and easy to use, Headpaint is the perfect colour solution for the specialist looking for great shine, superb grey coverage and perfect results. Uncut molecules and pure pigments penetrate deeply into the hair structure to deliver light-reﬂective shine as well as colour longevity, while the dualsystem technology means that you can create permanent and demi-permanent results from one range depending on the strength of the peroxide catalyst you use. And you don’t need to worry about the condition of the hair throughout the colour process – natural botanical extracts and hydrolysed rice protein strengthen and nourish to ensure hair remains in excellent condition.
Show clients it’s cool to go grey with Ash Infusions by Fudge Professional. To find out more, call 020 7845 6333 or visit fudgeprofessional.com
FUDGE PROFESSIONAL AND THE X-PRESION CREATIVE TEAM SHOW WHAT NEW ASH INFUSIONS SHADES CAN DO – AND THE RESULTS ARE AN EXPLOSION IN CREATIVITY DEDICATED TO innovation and creation of new techniques, the multi-award winning X-presion Creative Team from Spain pushed the new Ash Infusions range to its limits, producing some of the most spectacular colour creations we’ve seen in a long time
CREATIVE HEAD: What was your inspiration for the collection? X-PRESION CREATIVE TEAM: It was a challenge and a beautiful project to be part of. We built the whole concept using the three new Fudge Professional Headpaint Ash Infusions as a reference. We took these different Pantones and introduced them into all the shoot elements from hair and make-up to clothing and photography, avoiding plain backgrounds from the photo studio. Every single detail was considered to transmit these beautiful looks. CH: Tell us about your new technique. XCT: We wanted to give hairdressers new techniques so they can introduce new services in their salons. We created an innovative
colouring process called Graphic Balayage that achieves a new chromatic dimension on the hair, while playing with movement and transforming the textures into the appearance of the disruptive effect.
CH: How did you hear about Fudge Professional and why did you decide to collaborate with the brand? XCT: The Spanish distributor of Fudge Professional was one of the first companies we met when we started. We felt really close to the Fudge Professional vision – we love companies that dare to make things different and are antiordinary as that is also our speciality! So, here we are, 10 years later producing this beautiful project together; amazing right?
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Hair by X-presion Creative Team for Fudge Professional
CH: What do you admire about Fudge Professional? XCT: We love its vision. The products are great and the brand is really open-minded in exploring new possibilities. CH: What do you love most about the new Ash Infusions? XCT: Silver Lilac, Rose Quartz and Graphite are beautiful colours on their own, but we really like that we could play by mixing them to achieve different intensities and depths. CH: What should hairdressers take away with them when they see this new collection? XCT: For us it’s all about the education and encouraging hairdressers to not just look at
the surface of the style, but look at the whole transformation and movement. Our techniques create an almost 3D look to the hair. Graphic Balayage with disruptive roots shows how you can create movement and get a cool effect. We want stylists to dream about new ways to use colour.
The full X-presi collection overleaf
CH: How did you find working with the Fudge Professional team on this shoot? XCT: One word: amazing! Since we started the project with Fudge Professional’s Sue Lever and Tracy Hayes, we felt like we made a great team. We’re sure we’ll create many more beautiful projects together. We’re really looking forward to seeing this collection appearing globally across salons and media.
To order the new Fudge Professional Headpaint Ash Infusions for your salon, call 020 7845 6333 or visit fudgeprofessional.com CREATIVE HEAD
From Rose Quartz to Silver Lilac, pretty pastels get a soft, fresh finish with the X-presion Creative Team for Fudge Professional PHOTOGRAPHY BY X-PRESION PRODUCCIONES CREATIVE HEAD
HAIR X-presion Creative Team for Fudge Professional CREATIVE HEAD
S ’ E N U T R FO AYS ALW G N I HID
– IRCUTS A H L L A TB SIC FOO KHAM – S A L C TH N ASED O ND DAVID BEC PERIMENTS WI B Y R O T AA N EX ON S A FASHI RLOS VALDERAMNNER KY WILSO A LITTLE FUN I A THINK C TREPRENEUR W L WHILE HAVING N L COX IT LIST E PE, FORM… A T WIL T A O I H S L ERAS, BY EL Y RAPH G O T PHO
HAIR Ky Wilson, The Social. STYLING Robbie Canale. ALL SHIRTS courtesy of classicfootballshirts.com
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THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
Photography by Michaela Hercagová, Natalie Black and Kirsty Powell
Scene STAGED DURING London Fashion Week, Raw Edge is a not-for-profit event aimed at showcasing graduate and emerging talent from across the creative and fashion industries to press, media and investors, produced by stylist Dom Capel and his Seven Eighths partner, Tom Clulee. It’s a great opportunity for young hairdressers to get a taste of backstage and make some contacts with designers, photographers, make-up artists and more that will come in very handy if they decide to shoot their own collections. With the support of Wella, who offered its new Wella World Studio London as the venue, the Sebastian Professional CULT Team and stylists from the brand’s MOB programme were behind the hair looks for the runway show, with designs shown from Boutique de Nana, Seven Eighths, Karolina Badas and a variety of designers who had studied at University of Portsmouth.
Gary Hooker and Michael Young
IN THE RATHER PLUSH setting of the Palm Court at London’s Waldorf Hilton, Gary Hooker and Michael Young stepped back in time to find a ’70s flavour of inspiration for a very modern launch – the revamped BlondMe colour range from Schwarzkopf Professional. With authentic fashion accessories sourced especially for the occasion, Hooker & Young illustrated their love of wearable, client-friendly colour and styling with a nod to the editorial. The variety on show was impressive, from honey glazed blondes to stunning silvers, all delivered with that ’70s panache (think Jerry Hall at the height of her Roxy Music collaboration). The lads kept everyone amused too, with plenty of on-stage ribaldry (often at the expense of guest Andrew Barton, a good friend of the duo, who sat on the front row).
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Twerking, singing and a mob on the stage – the organisers told us what to expect at a Guy Tang event but we still weren’t prepared for the raucousness, rioting (we saw at least one squabble over a Guy Tang T-shirt) and really, really excited fans (his #hairbesties). About 1,200 hairdressers descended onto Victoria Warehouse in Manchester to see the man himself at Salon Services Live in partnership with Salon Success, and they weren’t disappointed. For while they came to be entertained, they also came to be educated by the man that’s attracted a following of 1.8 million and 1.25 million on Instagram and Facebook respectively. He began by presenting six models in varying hues of violet and silver, which he created using Kenra Metallic Color Collection, while the second part of the show was all about creating natural metallics, including an icy blonde that would ‘make Frozen’s Elsa jealous’. He also revealed several techniques including backcomb balayage and diagonal highlighting, which stops the creation of a colour band as the hair grows out. While the main show came to an end (we swear we saw some tears), the night was just beginning as the horde of hairdressers partied the night away and Guy Tang went out to meet his adoring fans.
Host Eltoria blogger, Simone Partner
GUY about town
BLEACH LONDON TRAINING ACADEMY From 2017, BLEACH London will be sharing their trade secrets to the next generation of budding and seasoned colourists with the launch of their new Academy in the heart of London. Run exclusively from BLEACH’s newest salon in Soho, students can choose from 2 flexible courses - Advanced and Entry level that can be attended full time or arranged around an existing job, equipping them with all the necessary skills needed to join the ranks of the colour literati.
AC/DC - Advanced Colour Diploma Course - £6,000 +VAT
NVQ2 & Colour Technician Qualification - £10,000 +VAT
AC/DC allows qualified Colour Technicians to take their skill, knowledge and technique to the highest level.
An entry level, fast track course for those committed to becoming a qualified Colour Technician.
Students will be taught Bleach’s advanced techniques to create niche trends and complex colour services.
Students will be educated and assessed in all aspects of hairdressing, theory and practical, and on completion will gain a full NVQ level 2 in Hairdressing.
- Safe scalp bleaching - Creative colour - Dip Dye/Dip Lights/Balayage - Dyeing darker roots into lighter hair
- Colour change / correction - Styling and finishing www.facebook.com/bleachacademy
Work experience within the salon will ensure the highest standard of hairdressing training beyond the NVQ criteria.
Jeky ll and Hyd e… So methi ng a litt le dif ferent
Wo rkin g with the fabulou s Christop he Pot in
Mix ing away
Butchers salon’s Simon Schuetz ‘@hurrrland’, winner of Aveda and Creative HEAD’s #WithAvedaICan competition to work backstage at London Fashion Week, snaps away
When the sun displays a rainbow
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
Doing the boss's hair #mylittlepony
The Butchers salon mission
Between shows at #lfw I took some time to make this crazy one for @theoriginalh urrr 90
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Ha ir-rais ing stuff at Lon don Fas hio n We ek for Ro berta Ein er A/W17
Noughties hair with Aveda at Roberta Einer
COLOUR ME GOOD
Collection: Karine Jackson ‘Why Label It’ Hair: Karine Jackson for Organic Colour Systems, Photography: Andrew O’Toole, Styling: Leticia Dare, Make-Up: Margaret Aston, Assistant: Nichola Hand, Organic Colour Systems
BE BOLD, BE STRONG, BE NATURAL
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