£4.50 APRIL 2015
In print •online•everywhere!
APRIL 2015 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
TELL ME EVERYTHING SHARE YOUR INNER VISIONS
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“I PULL ON IT, APPLY HEAT TO IT AND THEN I END UP TYING IT BACK” “I HURT IT. AND I PAY DEARLY FOR THAT” “I SPEND ALL MY TIME TRYING TO TAME IT” “I BLEACH THE ENDS, WHICH LEAVES IT LOOKING DRY, DULL AND DEAD”
#HAIRCONFESSIONS 02
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CREATIVE HEAD
19/03/2015 12:42
RENEW YOUR FAITH IN HAIRCARE CLIENTS CAN NOW WASH AWAY THEIR HAIR SINS WITH NEW THÉRAPISTE FROM KÉRASTASE
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BAIN THÉRAPISTE
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SOIN PREMIER THÉRAPISTE
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MASQUE THÉRAPISTE
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SÉRUM THÉRAPISTE
19/03/2015 13:05
“WHATEVER THEIR DESIRES, I WANT TO OFFER CLIENTS GUILT-FREE, HEALTHY-LOOKING HAIR THAT IS NOTHING SHORT OF BEAUTIFUL” A THÉRAPISTE HAIRDRESSER
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WHEN DID YOU LAST CONFESS? There’s something about confessing that makes us feel better; the weight is lifted and the burden is halved. For years, clients have been confessing their hair sins not in church but to you, their hairdressers – you are their confidantes. Clients sit in your chair regaling you with their tales of guilt versus pleasure: they love their hair to be smooth yet still want to add texture and feel guilty about having to use heated tools to achieve it. But with the launch of new Thérapiste by Kérastase, you have the opportunity to give your clients something they thought they’d never get: a second chance.
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19/03/2015 13:06
A SECOND CHANCE…
AT LAST, WOMEN CAN EXPERIENCE A COMPLETE HAIR RENEWAL, REGARDLESS OF THE LEVEL OF DAMAGE, WITH NEW THÉRAPISTE BY KÉRASTASE
INNOVATION #1
INNOVATION #2
INNOVATION #3
INNOVATION #4
BAIN THÉRAPISTE – FOR FINE AND THICK HAIR
SOIN PREMIER THÉRAPISTE – FOR FINE HAIR
MASQUE THÉRAPISTE – FOR THICK HAIR
DOUBLE SÉRUM THÉRAPISTE – FOR FINE AND THICK HAIR
Bain Thérapiste benefits from a unique new format. From the first contact with water, this balm-in-shampoo emulsifies into an abundant foam to envelop the hair fibre and reduce friction during cleansing. The hair fibre is cared for and feels smooth to the touch. From the first application, the rich mousse penetrates and revives the hair.
Soin Premier Thérapiste can be applied before or after the shampoo, protecting fine hair from further damage during cleansing, acting like a gauze. This unique new routine leaves hair feeling lightweight yet nourished and more resilient.
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The rich, velvety texture of Masque Thérapiste acts like an emergency bandage, leaving hair feeling intensely nourished. Hair is pampered and enriched with a renewing formula of unique ingredients, leaving thick, damaged hair beautifully soft with its radiance revealed.
It’s the perfect product to reduce the appearance of split ends and help protect against all types of heat styling up to 230°C. This incredibly versatile serum features a dual formula, combining an oil-based agent to delicately moisturise lengths and ends while the cream-textured top coat seals split ends, leaving hair looking and feeling smoother.
20/03/2015 10:19
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
COMPETITION TIME!
ANDS ON ET YOUR H WANT TO G RANGE? HÉRAPISTE e with THE NEW T om and shar veheadmag.c ti ea win a cr to to o ce G for a chan confessions piste ra hé T us your hair aturing the fe r pe m ha Kérastase more than range, worth
£100*
m for eheadmag.co *See creativ s on iti nd co d full terms an
“FROM WEAK AND DAMAGED TO FINE OR THICK HAIR, KÉRASTASE PRODUCTS ARE TRULY CUSTOMISABLE TO EVERY CLIENT’S NEEDS. WITH NEW THÉRAPISTE, WE CAN REPAIR THE IRREPARABLE – EXCLUSIVELY IN THE SALON!” LISA RHEAD, BARBARA DALEY “WITH NEW KÉRASTASE THÉRAPISTE WE CAN NOW PROVIDE A SOLUTION THAT ALLOWS OUR CLIENTS TO STILL EXPERIENCE HEALTHY LOOKING HAIR AND NO LONGER FEEL GUILTY NO MATTER WHAT THEY DO TO IT” KEN PICTON, KEN PICTON SALON “I’VE BEEN A CONFIDANTE TO MANY WOMEN OVER THE YEARS AND THEY OFTEN TELL ME THEIR HAIR ‘LOOKS DEAD’. WITH THÉRAPISTE, EVEN THE MOST CRITICAL CASES CAN BE BROUGHT BACK TO LIFE” KEN EASTWOOD, KENNADY’S “TO HEAR THAT THIS CULT BRAND IS STILL GOING STRONG AND EXTENDING ITS OFFERING WITH NEW THÉRAPISTE IS GREAT NEWS. WE CAN’T WAIT TO TELL CLIENTS THAT THEIR FAVOURITE RANGE IS NEW AND IMPROVED” PAUL EDMONDS, PAUL EDMONDS
To find out more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit kerastase.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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Kiss it! Introducing six new fashion shades developed by the TIGI Creative Team. Golden blonde and copper brunette tones give hair a beautiful ‘sun kissed’ lustre. Formulated to be used alone or intermixed they allow stylists to create the ultimate shades. So now your clients can achieve their dream of having sun-kissed, summery hair all year round!
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Invent it. Own it. Kiss it. For more creative inspiration and to become a TIGI copyright©olour stockist visit: www.tigicopyrightcolour.com UK: 0844 8440 944 IRE: 01890 812022 www.tigicopyrightcolour.com TIGIPROFESSIONAL TIGICREATIVES
06/03/2015 09:40
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“Color Zoom puts your passion and creativity onTO a global stage.� --
Lisa Whiteman GLOBAL WINNER 2011 --
The COLOR ZOOM Challenge 2015 is open! Are you the next international trend setter? Create your interpretation of the Traditional Rebels trend for your chance to become part of the next Color Zoom Creative Team. Download your briefing kit at Colorzoom.com Deadline for entry is 31st May 2015
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Image: Traditional Rebels Collection by the Color Zoom Creative Team ‘15
Editor’s letter
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JOIN US! When Creative HEAD was devised nearly 15 years ago, the aim was to offer a different way of looking at hairdressing, of celebrating stylists who worked with hair in a different way. It’s in that spirit that we take the opportunity to shine a light on the visionaries of today, delving into the minds of those who excite us with their creativity, their different point of view. I hope you find what they share inspiring, starting from page 80. Speaking of styling, on page 60 we get to grips with the trends, the tools, the products and the services that can help expand bills while thrilling clients in your chair – and genuinely helping them to create looks they love at home, too. From the continuing growth of the blow-dry bar to an insight into why stylists decide to launch their own brands, it’s an essential read that mixes creativity, inspiration and practical business tips – a bit like Salon Smart, which hits London again later this month. I’ll be on stage quizzing Lee Stafford, the Charlie Miller team and I’ll be mingling in the audience to see what you’re all up to. Come and find me if you have a story to share…
Amanda Nottage Editor
Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year
amanda@headmag.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine
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creativeheadmag.com Creative HEAD Magazine App
There’s so much to report on from the Creative HEAD Events camp! With 17 soughtafter trophies waiting to be claimed, the buzz is building for Most Wanted and The It List 2015. Go to creativeheadmag. com/events to enter, deadlines are 18 and 22 May respectively. And have you heard? On 26 May, The Coterie: In Session is bringing together super stylists Claire Rothstein and Jonathan De Francesco with Stylist magazine’s Joanna McGarry for an exclusive evening of creativity and conversation. Tickets cost £40 – including drinks, food and a goody bag courtesy of event sponsor BaByliss PRO. Buy online at creativeheadmag.com/ thecoterie or call 01434 610944.
@creativeheadmag @creativeheadmag
18/03/2015 10:11
The Versatility of
UNITE速 PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM +44(0)8450340770 UNITEHAIR.CO.UK
April
WHAT’S INSIDE FASHION
It List It Guy Richard Phillipart’s collection is breathlessly beautiful
106 48
ON THE COVER Hair Thérapiste from Kérastase
SCENE
The seanhanna gang get together and celebrate
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SAM BURNETT
The star stylist and salon owner who just can’t sit still
EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
AMANDA NOTTAGE
ADAM WOOD
DAVID HAMMOND
DEPUTY EDITOR
EDITORIAL INTERN
BETH DAVIE
ANNA SAMSON
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
ART DIRECTOR
ADVERTISING
NICK JABBAL
LAURA TUCKER LEWIS TUCKER
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK
ART GRAEME WHITE
creativeheadmag.com
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Creative HEAD Magazine
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk
@creativeheadmag
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
19/03/2015 12:27
W E’R E NOT JUST E X PER T S AT BROW S
NOW AVA I L A BLE TO R E TA I L I N YOU R S A L ON Stock the capsule collection of 80 brow, eye, skin and lip essentials. Contact us to arrange your personal Salon Team visit today.
084 4 801 68 12 | hdbrows.com
WE NOW DO BLOW-STYLING!
INTRODUCING A BRAND NEW PADDLE HAIRBRUSH A BRUSH WITH BENEFITS! HAIR IS BLOW-DRIED QUICKER, EASIER, SHINIER AND WITH REDUCED FRIZZ. SEE IT IN ACTION!
WE’VE REINVENTED THE BLOW-DRYING EXPERIENCE …ALL IN ONE SIMPLE BRUSHSTROKE. Tel: 020 7274 6128
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26/02/2015 14:04
CREATIVE HEAD
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Main image: Zac Posen. Hair by Odile Gilbert for Moroccanoil.
Blumarine
Bora Aksu
THE COST OF A COLOUR SERVICE has decreased by 17 per cent since 2012, according to the Beautiful Britain 2015 survey by Salon Services. The average cost in the UK is now £35, down from £42 in 2012, most likely due to efforts in attracting new customers and maintaining client loyalty, the report claimed. Simon Rowlands, spokesman for Salon Services, said: “The industry has been incredibly resilient in bouncing back from the tough trading conditions of the recession. However, customers have held on to habits learnt during times of tighter purse strings and professionals are having to work harder than ever to earn their loyalty.” Steve Rowbottom, director at Westrow salons in Yorkshire, said: “Salon owners still feel pressured by the market to reduce prices to attract and retain clients. I believe it’s more about the client’s perception of the value of the visit. Have the confidence in your business to offer more for the same price and over deliver. This will then give you the option to look at increasing your prices rather than reducing them.” The report also revealed that 35 per cent of customers fail to tip after a treatment, with salon professionals in the West Country, East Midlands and South East least likely to be tipped by customers. Steven Gunnip, director at salon marketing firm Salon Evolution, said: “Clients are more careful when it comes to tipping. We advise salon owners to over-deliver to ensure they are offering the best quality by adding value to their service. If a client feels the salon experience was the best it can be, they will be feel obliged to tip. Monitoring tips is a good measure of a salon’s performance.” Male grooming services have also been affected, with male clients’ average spend down from £888 to £541, although there has been an increase in male customers overall.
Mara Hoffman
SALONS CONTINUE TO CUT COLOUR PRICES
Images courtesy of KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel, TIGI and Wella Professionals
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
J.W.Anderson
The edit
Sneak peek at A/W15 hair AS THE LIVE-ACTION version of Cinderella hits cinemas nationwide, it seems even the catwalk has princess fever, with sparkly, tulle dresses seen at Zuhair Murad, Reem Acra, Carolina Herrera and, of course, Naomi Campbell in that dress for Zac Posen. The hair echoed this trend with a return for long, flowing locks and ornate accessories. Sam Burnett for KMS California at Bora Aksu hit the trend on the head, creating a look that encompassed gorgeous, glossy hair with sparkly, pretty accessories, while Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals created effortlessly beautiful locks with just a hint of a sexy wave at Blumarine. And Thomas Osborn for TIGI went all warrior princess, creating intertwined braids for Mara Hoffman. If hair wasn’t down and long then it was up and away from the face. Anthony Turner for L’Oréal Professionnel created a fluffy, haphazard twist at the back of the head for J.W.Anderson that was “as if she’s spent hours dancing and raked her hair back”.
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THE COTERIE LAUNCHES LIVE ON-SET STYLING SPECTACULAR
SAKS PARTNERS UP WITH THE EVE APPEAL
Saks has announced a new two-year partnership with The Eve Appeal, a charity dedicated to funding research into and raising awareness of gynaecological cancers. The brand aims to raise £100,000 over the next two years through hosting fundraising events in and out of salons across the UK. This includes an international group trek for franchisees in 2016. To donate, text SAKS15 and your donation amount to 70070.
THE COTERIE – Creative HEAD’s fashion and hair networking club – has launched a fresh new event, The Coterie: In Session. Bringing a live show element to the usual Coterie formula, guests will be able to watch hairdressers such as international celebrity stylist Claire Rothstein and double It List winner Jonathan De Francesco create looks direct from the runway, as well as wearable interpretations clients will love. The evening will also feature interviews with the guest artists by Stylist’s associate editor (beauty), Joanna McGarry. Tickets cost £40, including refreshments and a goodie bag from event sponsor BaByliss PRO. Book online at creativeheadmag/thecoterie or call 01434 610944.
HERSHESONS LAUNCHES DIGITAL INNOVATIONS
Joshua, Janet, Charlie and Jason Miller
CHARLIE MILLER AWARDS ARE A NIGHT TO REMEMBER
MAIN STAGE SPEAKERS
27 APRIL 2015
CHARLIE MILLER HAS CELEBRATED its 15th Achievement Awards, rewarding its 107 hairdressing professionals with a night of recognition and entertainment, hosted by Radio Forth DJ Grant Stott. Held at the Ghille Dhu hall in Edinburgh, the awards were also an opportunity to mark the company’s 50th year in business with a surprise video of tributes from industry peers, friends and colleagues. Tammy Waugh Neillings won Outstanding Hairdressers of the Year, while Gillian Craik took home Head Technician of the Year and Keri McCracken won Receptionist of the Year.
To-do list Your planner for the month ahead...
12 April
HEATING UP
The L’Oréal Colour Trophy Regional Heats starts, ending on 22 April in London. Sally and Jamie Brooks are the creative directors on the tour and they will be working with the L’Oréal ID Artists to produce the show that will be seen nationwide.
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UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT
To celebrate the fifth anniversary of the Generation Now Team, Wella is holding a unique Spotlight evening at its Wella World London studio, featuring a creative show from the current team. There will also be special guests from previous teams.
20 April
26-27 April
MAKES BUSINESS SENSE
Salon Smart – Creative HEAD’s annual business networking event – brings together great minds, innovative brands and fresh ideas. This year sees Most Wanted Business Thinker 2014 winner, Angelo Vallillo, discuss how he revived his languishing salon and Lee Stafford tells all.
Hershesons has introduced Skype consultations and a Tinder-style ‘Find The One’ function, enabling clients to find their ideal stylist and colour technician before they step through the door. Clients can scan through all of Hershesons team to find their perfect match, while the consultations allow clients to ask key questions before they go to their appointment.
❤ WE LOVE
No matter how on-trend the midi is, many of us secretly crave long, luscious locks. Now you can make your clients’ hair grow faster than ever with Redken Extreme Length Sealer and Primer. Featuring a blend of Redken’s signature proteins with biotin to bring back hair, the products reconstruct locks back to their full potential.
CREATIVE HEAD
19/03/2015 14:41
#CHedit
312%
The increase Fudge Professional has reported in sales of its Clean Blonde Violet Toning Shampoo and Conditioner since Kim Kardashian stepped out sporting platinum blonde locks on her way to the Balmain show during Paris Fashion Week – a powerful reminder of the influence celebrities have on clients and to replenish your retail in preparation!
MY month
AHEAD
What April has in store for... MARGARET WATSON
SAKS HAIR, WHITLEY BAY
Get active in the salon We know stylists are some of the busiest people, but that’s no excuse for not exercising…
DO YOUR BIT FOR EARTH MONTH
SARAH COTTON
AVEDA’S #ThoughtfulThursday weekly morning yoga sessions are in honour of Earth Month and the £5 charge for the class will go straight to its chosen UK charity, WaterAid. The yoga sessions take place at the Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa in Covent Garden from 2 April to 30 April.
BANG, YORK
This month we are preparing our teams for the Regional Finals of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and practising the looks well in advance of our North East heat. There is even more pressure this year as we won last year, so we really want to do well again, particularly as this is the 60th anniversary of the event.
GET FIT WITH DAVINES THE DAVINES ‘Fitness and Food: feel better behind the chair’ initiative is for those stylists looking for more guidance for their overall health and lifestyle. The first part of the campaign, fitness, looks to help stylists fight stress and fatigue after a long day in the salon. The second branch, food, is designed to help hairdressers make better diet choices. Monica Poli, international education manager for Davines, said: “As professionals that concentrate on the care and beauty of people, we understand that feeling well means working well, which is why we have devised the Davines Fitness and Food initiative. We hope our hairdressers will practice the healthy working regime and pass on this approach to their clients.”
CREATIVE HEAD
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We are embracing the new partnership between Saks and The Eve Appeal by doing lots of fundraising. We’re holding a Make Time for Tea party in-salon to start our contributions. We’ve also got a ‘Girls Night In’ with hair demos, a raffle, nibbles and a frock swap. I’m petrified of heights, but I’ll be zip-wiring across the Tyne Bridge with a client, so wish me luck!
NEIL BARTON
NEIL BARTON, EDINBURGH I head down to London with Goldwell for its On The Edge seminar, where I will be teaching cutting techniques. I am also heading up a two-day workshop with the Nordic group with 20 of its students where I will be presenting Color Zoom, making them aware of this year’s theme and giving the students inspiration for their photoshoots.
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#CHedit
Want to combine powerful hold with flexibility and lightness? Then new ultimate hold power spray from chill* will be your new BFF!
Turn up the heat on retail with this ghd V gold kit, a set including styler, paddle brush, heat protect spray and two sectioning clips.
RRP £125 0845 330 1133 ghdhair.com
RRP £5.99
COLOUR CLOSE-UP
01535 658499 chill.uk.com
Got clients who want smooth hair in half the time? Matrix Oil Wonders Flash Blow Dry Oil claims to cut drying time for all hair types by 50 per cent.
RRP £12.95 0800 387608 matrixhaircare.co.uk
In-salon colour is a big commitment for clients, but let’s be honest, they don’t always use the best aftercare. Show them a way to cheat – Colour Fanatic from Pureology is a multi-tasking wizard that offers 21 benefits to prime, protect and perfect coloured hair with much less effort!
There’s some serious reconstructive power in SP LuxeOil Keratin Conditioning Cream, a lightweight transformer that gives clients gorgeously glossy locks.
RRP £25 01202 595700
The slick finish was everywhere during S/S15 and L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART has it covered with Wet Domination. Choose from Extreme Splash Gelée or Shower Shine Spray, and take advantage of the Eva Greenfronted material for your salon window.
Pureology
systemprofessional.com
RRP £14.85 0800 085 4956 pureology.co.uk
Label.m is celebrating 10 years of collaboration with a Giles makeover for backstage favourites Hairspray, Volume Mousse and Texturising Volume Spray.
RRP £13.99 EACH 0845 600 0122
RRP FROM £12.25 01753 612090
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
labelm.com
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Let your clients enjoy the dual effects of supersleek thermal protection and enhanced straightening effects with Smoothie from Affinage Styling.
RRP £11.90
01794 527111 affinage.com
Big up your clients’ looks with the new OSiS+ Session Label Volumising Root Spray Mousse and Plumping Lotion, designed to give lift and moisture to fine hair.
RRP MOUSSE £10.75; LOTION £12.85 01442 278000 schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
19/03/2015 15:32
STOCK
OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
THERE IS SUCH A THING as a second chance when it comes to your clients’ hair, thanks to new Thérapiste by Kérastase. The range promises to completely renew damaged hair, providing a personalised solution for women whose hair is in real trouble. It all begins with the conditioner – yes, you read that right. The conditioner is applied before the shampoo to protect the hair like a gauze (ideal for fine hair), before applying the shampoo, masque and serum. Sometimes you have to go backwards to move forwards…
RRP FROM £17.50 CALL 0845 600 0122 kerastase.co.uk GO ONLINE for your chance to win a hamper of Kérastase goodies worth more than £100! Visit creativeheadmag.com
IT’S ALL ABOUT... SHINE Super-dry and non-greasy, Light HED-ed hair oil from Fudge is a frizz-fighting light mist that’s easy to apply and leaves hair feeling nourished, smooth and glistening.
The India range from I.C.O.N. features exotic ingredients that nourish all hair types to deliver show-stopping shine – India Oil is pure gold.
fudge.com/professionals
louise.jenkins@icon-concept.co.uk
RRP £12.95 020 7845 6333
CREATIVE HEAD
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RRP FROM £8.60 0113 278 1292
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19/03/2015 15:32
PRESENTED BY
SPONSORED BY
Creative HEAD presents an evening with…
CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN: INTERNATIONAL FASHION AND CELEBRITY STYLIST AND LEAD HAIRDRESSER AT THE 2015 BRIT AWARDS AND JONATHAN DE FRANCESCO: ON THE BACKSTAGE TEAMS AT THE BIGGEST RUNWAY SHOWS. HOSTED BY STYLIST MAGAZINEʼS JOANNA MCGARRY
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LIVE!
WATCH THEM CREATE: ● THE LATEST LOOKS, HOT OFF THE RUNWAY
● WEARABLE INTERPRETATIONS YOUR CLIENTS WILL LOVE ● STYLING TECHNIQUES YOU WONʼT SEE ANYWHERE ELSE
PLUS! LIVE ON-SET INTERVIEWS AND POST-SESSION NETWORKING
THE COTERIE: IN SESSION Tuesday 26 May 2015 7pm until 10pm Hoxton Street Studios, Blossom Street, London E1 6PL
TICKETS £40
INCLUDES FOOD, DRINKS AND A BABYLISS PRO GOODIE BAG COTERIE MEMBERS GO FREE BUT MUST RSVP
CALL TO BOOK 01434 610933
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BOOK ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie
17/03/2015 14:53
FREE SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE...
£50
A GIFT WORTH MORE THAN
CREATIVE HEAD AND ALL SUPPLEMENTS FOR 12 MONTHS FOR £33 A MAKE UP BY HD BROWS BUNDLE, FEATURING FAUX LASHES, LIP GLOSS AND MAKE-UP BAG, WORTH £52.50. FIVE LUCKY SUBSCRIBERS WILL RECEIVE A MAKE UP BY HD BROWS GOODIE BAG, FEATURING BROWN KAJAL, FOXY EYESHADOW PALETTE, DUO GEL LINER AND EYE DEFINE, WORTH £88.
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FOR EVERY SUBSCRIBER* YOU’LL ENJOY...
19/03/2015 12:28
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WANT IT? SHOP IT! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM BRINGS YOU EXCLUSIVE BRANDS, THE BEST DEALS AND THE CAN’T-LIVE-WITHOUT ESSENTIALS. WHAT’S IN YOUR BASKET? POWERED BY
New ideas
ILLUMINATED BARBER’S POLE
ASTON & FINCHER DISPOSABLE TOWELS
For use outside or in, this classic illuminated barber’s pole is available in small or large to add a vintage touch to your barbershop or ‘man zone’.
Every salon should stock disposable towels – they’re perfect for everyday use or emergencies. They’re also biodegradable and highly absorbent.
BUY IT from £64.99
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BUY IT £7.38 SELL IT £14.50
FLAIR-A-SOL WATER SPRAY
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL MAJIROUGE CARMILANE
LIFE BLEACHING POWDER
A water spray that acts like an aerosol? This neat contraption allows water to be decanted as an evenly distributed micro-mist. It will be a fine romance…
For pure, vibrant, intense and longlasting reds, these new Majirouge Carmilane shades from L’Oréal Professionnel are ideal for creating this season’s hottest hues.
The high-quality ingredients guarantee excellent results. Life bleaching powder, available in a 500g bag, is ideal for all kinds of lightening treatments, and its high power lifts up to six shades.
BUY IT £3.95 each
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EVO SHEBANG-A-BANG
All prices exclude VAT
A dry spray wax with an ultra-fine mist designed to create workable, pliable texture with a satin finish.
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#CHedit Kara Tointon shoot for Notebook Alice Eve rocking my halo braid
Getting Sara h Jan e Craw ford ready
Red carpet esse ntia ls!
In the frame Marc Trinder of Charles Worthington Salons styles up the stars at the 2015 Baftas
Stephe n Fry and Sa m Clafin styled for the Bafta reveal
Z sushing up Kara T
RISING STAR NAME: ABI SAXTON AGE: 22 SALON: ARCHITECT HAIR
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Bafta bootca mp with the Cha rles Wo rthi ngt on Art Tea m
Why did you want to become a hairdresser? I’ve always been interested in fashion, but seemed to care more about my hair than my clothes. It was only a matter of time before I ended up experimenting with my hair, and then with everyone else’s!
With make- up artist Sarah Jane Froom at Colour Contou ring press launch
My new born son, Archie, gets Bafta ready!
What have been your highlights so far? There are so many! Ordinary day-to-day stuff makes me so happy, but what I have enjoyed the most was working for the incredible John Vial for Fudge backstage at London Collections: Men.
Where do you see yourself in ten years time? Leading teams backstage at international fashion weeks and actually working closely with the designers to create the hair is my goal.
Bafta bootca mp session
What would your dream hairdressing gig be? To go on a world tour as the resident stylist for a band. I’ve always wanted to live the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle, and this is probably the only way I can!
Far left and middle left images: Photography by Steve Howdle, make-up by Seema Ghir, styling by Sharon Brigden. Left image: Agi&Sam S/S15, courtesy of Fudge
SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativehead
CREATIVE HEAD
17/03/2015 12:28
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
What they’re saying about… The new Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel. Find out what’s so good about the range and why it’s what you need for brilliant blondes this year
I love the new Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel. I recently applied the High Lift Ash on Twiggy, using my Brickwork technique to give her a naturallooking shimmering blonde result” DANIEL GALVIN OBE, DANIEL GALVIN
It helps leave the hair feeling silky soft and looks smooth and shiny from root to tip, which is a great benefit for a blonde service. I really recommend Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel” CHRIS WILLIAMS, RUSH HAIR
Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel really exceeded my expectations in terms of the cool, crisp blonde that it delivers. Clients are even more excited when they hear about its antibrassiness effect”
NATHAN WALKER, TREVOR SORBIE
I can achieve different blonde looks for my clients with the sophisticated palette of shades Majirel High Lift offers. Also, I was impressed by how easy it is to mix a number of the shades to deliver bespoke blondes”
ALAN EDWARDS, ALAN EDWARDS SALONS
It is so easy to use. The consistency is really creamy and smooth, and as a result mixing and application is really simple. We have been really happy with the results and look forward to using it more and more” LAURA CAPRIGLIA, MACK
The year of blonde
If there is any colour that sums up what 2015 is and will be all about, it’s blonde. The catwalk loves the crisp, clean colour, while celebrities are making blonde the coolest shade on the block. Make sure you’re ready to meet client demand for this cool shade with Majirel High Lift – L’Oréal Professionnel’s coolest, most neutralising blonde yet. It provides up to 4.5 levels of lift with a palette of intensely brightening shades for shimmering results. The new formulation is a blend of cooler reflects, precisely calibrated to deliver increased levels of neutralisation. It is also enriched with Majirel’s famous Ionéne G and Incell. Hair feels soft and looks smooth and shiny. To celebrate the year of the blonde, L’Oréal Professionnel has introduced a new service to complement its new Majirel High Lift range – The Shimmering Blonde Service, as seen on the brand’s new colour muse, Twiggy.
Make sure your salon is ready for the year of the blonde. To find out more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/haircolour CREATIVE HEAD
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Inside story SEED, FULHAM
The super-sustainable Seed on the Fulham Road in London is the latest addition to the Seed family, owned by Yuly Massoni and Francesca Amantis. With other locations in Clapham and Kensington, the SW6 branch boasts an “East London meets South West London” vibe, with a homely, friendly, relaxed appeal. The interior has an industrial warehouse feel, utilising scaffolding poles and boards, old speakers in a new guise as working stations, alongside an original fireplace and oven discovered by chance when renovating. Exposed brickwork, quirky details such as mismatched graphic tiles and antlers by the backwash, eye-catching Davines displays and relaxing beauty rooms make it a heavenly haven for its discerning clientele. “We want our salon to be a big part of the neighbourhood, from baby’s first haircut to granny’s birthday celebration,” says co-owner Yuly. We love a little community spirit!
HOT BUYS
now open
HEART OF GLASS Want to make a feature of your mirrors in the salon? Then check out the new Halo collection from Takara Belmont – we can’t decide between the rust-like appearance of the Bolt or the aged wood of the brilliantly named Oldie. PRICE: Bolt £605/Oldie £725 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk
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GRO HAMPSTEAD LONDON
Located in the O2 Centre, GRO Hampstead is full of fun flourishes and colourful details.
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Image courtesy of System Professional
CLOSE-UP
GYUNEL S/S15
Scan the fashion glossies and you’ll see braids, buns and knots all over the runway. This desert-kissed look at Gyunel from Darren Ambrose, lead stylist for System Professional, has it all. It’s a super-feminine look that gives the girl in your chair an edge, while calling on your nimble fingertips to get creative. For clients with long hair, playtime awaits. And you could update your styling menu to provide translations of the trends, offer a ‘workshop’ to show clients how to repeat the look at home and pull together a bespoke styling kit and up your retail. Pins at the ready...
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WANT TO SEE Darren talk about inspiration throughout his career? See him in our Visionaries feature, on page 94 CREATIVE HEAD
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THE BUSINESS EDIT HOW DO I EXPAND INTO BEAUTY?
INCLUDING BEAUTY TREATMENTS in your salon menu can enhance your profile and increase customer numbers, which will inevitably boost revenue. But which treatments you offer depend on the amount of space you have and the type. “Waxing is the bread and butter of any beauty salon and can work alongside a hair business, too. However, a private space is essential for this service,” says Lisa Stone, an educator for Salon System. “And it’s not just women; male grooming is on the up, with many men also asking for waxing services too, from back and chest to intimate areas. This can be a lucrative service to offer.” Nail services are another good addition to hair, as clients are often left unattended – a great opportunity to be painting nails. “It also leads to a conversation where the therapist or nail technician can be retailing homecare products,” explains Emma Lynwode, education business development manager for nail brand essie. “Also, having the retail
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product available is a great chance to add a little impulse buy.” This doesn’t have to be just nails – think of eyebrow products, false lashes and cosmetics as potential retail goldmines. One of the biggest points of difference between hair and beauty staff is the range of qualifications needed to offer a variety of beauty services. For example, a beauty professional might be qualified to do facials, but not body massages. This is a key issue as you’ll need to know they are properly trained so they can be properly insured. “When setting up, and recruiting for, a new beauty section within your business, it’s important to ask candidates for CVs showing previous experience or recommendations. This will give you the confidence that potential staff have a core understanding of the treatments you wish to offer,” says Nilam Holmes-Patel, chief executive and founder of HD Brows. Make sure therapists are trained and able to offer the services they say they have studied.
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TO ENCOURAGE CLIENT LOYALTY AND TO BUILD THEIR BILLS, MORE SALONS ARE OFFERING BEAUTY SERVICES TOO – BUT WHERE DO YOU START? Ask for certificates or look for listings on official websites, such as the HD Brows salon finder. “Previous experience and training in beauty courses recognised by professional bodies such as BABTAC or the Guild of Professional Beauty Therapists is important,” says Nilam. “Some local authorities will require you to hold a treatment licence,” adds essie’s Emma. “Look for technicians who hold at least NVQ Level 2 or equivalent as usually this is required in order to obtain or add them to the licence.” Also ask if the therapist collects CPD points. “This will show that they are keen to develop and improve their knowledge as well as keeping up-to-date with current trends and techniques,” adds Salon System’s Lisa Stone. When looking for beauty staff, local newspaper advertising may seem the most obvious choice but, according to Emma, there are also some good specialised online recruitment sites. Once you have candidates, it’s vital to look for a warm personality and an eagerness to learn. “There are a lot of good beauty therapists out there but personality goes a long way,” adds Nilam. “The desire to continue to learn and enhance their skills, and offer a high standard of service, is key. Beauty therapists need to be confident and knowledgeable in the treatments they offer and able to deal with all kinds of personalities.
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Every client is different and they need to have a grasp of how to make clients feel comfortable and relaxed in any situation.” Salon System’s Lisa also argues that your beauty recruits will need to be self-motivated and show enthusiasm to be able to drive and grow this new side of your business: “Good retailing skills and product knowledge are essential and can generate quick add-on sales and boost your projected targets.” Opinion is split on the freelance question. “If possible, I always recommend employing staff full time as it creates a team environment that will benefit everyone involved in the success of the business,” admits Nilam. “Protect the investment in your full-time staff by making sure they continue to develop their skills through regular training. Freelance staff can be useful for beauty businesses but reliability can sometimes be a problem, as they have no ties to the salon, so ensure that strict terms are put in place before taking anyone on.” For nails, essie’s Emma suggests using a freelance nail technician and perhaps renting them a space, as you can guarantee the income regardless of how busy services are. However, usually techs who work on this basis are parttime and may only work a few days a week.” She adds: “If you want to offer services fulltime, you may need to find several freelancers or employ one or two people permanently.”
FROM INSIDE
THE SALON
FRAN SHAKESPEARE
BENESSERE HAIR & BEAUTY
I reconfigured my hair business to include two spa rooms and a courtyard garden to deliver an holistic package. I employ six hairdressers, one trainee and three beauty therapists. I look for NVQ Level 3 as a minimum, and our process sees candidates doing a practical test, giving a treatment to one of our beauty therapists or another La Biosthétiquetrained beauty professional. I employ my therapists, as I prefer to have a committed team and I like to retain control, making sure everyone works to our standards. It’s vital to know about the beauty business before developing into the area. Benessere is the first La Biosthétique UK concept salon; it’s a brand that facilitates business crossover. We offer a facial with a hair treatment for example, or suggest a blowdry after a body treatment. Having beauty has created a 25 per cent increase in business, but seeing clients arrived stressed then leaving relaxed is the greatest reward.”
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YOU CARE YOU EARN RED RAG TO A STYLIST
HAIRDRESSERS NEED TO STOP BEING INCENSED BY THE CONCEPT OF ‘SELLING’, SAYS KEN WEST KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5
MAIN STAGE SPEAKER
27 APRIL 2015
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WHY DO STYLISTS always get enraged when retail is mentioned? I’m not sure exactly what job it is that they think they do; so let’s define selling. When someone buys something, then someone else must be selling it. Otherwise everything would be free. By that definition hairdressers sell haircuts. Okay, that’s not how we like to define it, so we use expressions such as ‘solving people’s problems’, ‘creating dreams and visions’ and so on. But at the end of the day we sell the services we provide.
But to be truly successful a stylist does more than just cut hair. They sell their skills, their personality and their ideas to clients that hopefully buy their services. We know they must be buying because they choose to pay us. Now that is out of the way and we accept the fact that stylists are sales people, then maybe we can change the attitude to retailing in the salon. As a good salesman I care about my customers and I want them to get the best possible results out of the product that I sell them, that way they will enjoy the product and return to buy from me again in the future. The most important word in the previous sentence is ‘care’. If I don’t truly care, then what I sell to someone may not be right, or they may not actually need it. It may not enhance or improve their usage of my product and therefore they will not trust me to give them good advice, nor will they buy from me again in the future. So how does that apply to a hairstylist? It’s simple. Having been a salon owner and stylist
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THEY TRUST THEY SPEND for many years I’ve worked with stylists who were passionate about beautiful hairdressing. They would constantly seek out the perfect product. They have favourites that they could not possibly survive without. They would throw tantrums if we were out of stock or they couldn’t find a specific lotion or potion or the perfect brush or tool. But after creating the perfect style they didn’t care enough to ensure that the client could achieve the same result themselves when they got home. If the stylist needed the perfect product then why would the client not need it? Why would they let their client go to a supermarket or chemist in the vain search for a similar product or tool when they, as the expert, have the perfect solution right there? If you show your clients how to achieve great results at home and ensure that they take home the products that they need, then they
will know that you care. They will trust your advice in the future and purchase from you again. Not only products, but services you may recommend to them in the future, because you already have their trust. You’ve already proven your integrity by showing that you care. Now here’s the last piece of the jigsaw that stylists regularly forget. Unless they care enough, clients won’t trust them. If clients don’t trust them then they won’t come back and spend more money. If the clients don’t spend more money, then the stylists won’t earn more money. And if they don’t earn enough money then they tend not to care about their clients or their jobs. Strangely enough, whenever I’m delivering coaching to stylists and I ask them if they want to earn more money, they all say yes, which is weird when they don’t want to ‘sell’ anything! It’s simple really.
WANT TO ASK KEN A QUESTION? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com
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#BusinessEdit
LIFE LESSONS
CORRADO TEVERE RADIO LONDON HAIR SALON & GALLERY
Surround yourself with a great team. It’s very difficult to achieve your goals without the support of other like-minded, hardworking people. Always move forward. No matter how well things are going, always stay focused and keep moving forward – that’s how you can continue to grow. Live and learn by example. Always be the first to lead the way. Do not overwork yourself. It will affect your creativity. I appreciate this is often a very hard rule to live by in the hairdressing industry though! Think outside of the box. It could be where you’re most inspired to develop your next and best creation.
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NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE SET FOR SHARPEST RISE SINCE 2008 SALONS ARE BEING WARNED the government has tightened up the penalties for small firms that report their payroll information late. HM Revenue & Customs introduced a new system of monthly penalties from 6 March for small businesses, or those with fewer than 50 staff. It means an employer will incur a penalty if it submits its Full Payment Submission late, doesn’t send in the expected number of submissions or fails to send an Employer Payment Summary when it should. The penalties are based on the number of employees a business has, with firms employing between one and nine staff at risk of a £100-a-month penalty, rising to £400-a-month for a business with 250 employees or more. The new regime has brought small businesses into line with larger employers, which have been subject to penalties since October last year. The change has been brought in as part of the government’s Real Time Information system for reporting and submitting PAYE information.
NHF GUIDE SETS OUT TRUE COST OF CHAIR RENTING THE NHF HAS PUBLISHED a guide for members that sets out everything business owners need to consider before making decisions about switching from having employees to chair renting. The new guide is designed to help salons navigate a path through what can sometimes be a complex process. More than half of UK salons use chair renters and it’s a business model that works well for some. But many salon owners aren’t clear on how chair renting actually works. On the surface it’s all about saving money and the hassle of managing employees. But chair renting can be complex, and mistakes damaging, the guide has advised. Find the guide online at nhf.info/nhf-guides
SALONS ARE BEING WARNED the National Minimum Wage will be rising sharply from this October, with the adult rate increasing by 3 per cent, or 20p to £6.70 an hour, and the apprentice wage rising by a massive 20 per cent, or 57p to £3.30 an hour. The announcement by the government in March is the steepest rise in the adult rate since 2008. The increase in the apprentice wage, meanwhile, is the largest ever and, said ministers, would halve the gap between it and the rate for those aged 16 and 17, which itself will rise by 2 per cent, or 8p to £3.87 an hour. The government also announced it would be consulting with employers on the future of the apprentice wage and said it would be setting up a new “digital apprenticeship voucher” as part of its reforms to apprenticeship funding. NHF president Paul Curry warned that for many salons these rises would be “the last straw” and could mean having to lay off staff to cope with the increased cost. Coupled with the reforms to apprenticeship funding, which will see employers contributing to the cost of training, the rise in • A 20p (3 per cent) increase in the the apprentice rate would simply rate for workers aged 21 and over serve to make apprentices more (from £6.50 to £6.70 per hour) expensive and therefore less • A 17p (3 per cent) increase for those attractive to salons. aged 18 to 20 (from £5.13 to £5.30) He added: “Salons will have no • An 8p (2 per cent) increase for those option but to find this extra money aged 16 to 17 (from £3.79 to £3.87) from somewhere – and the NHF will be working hard between now • A 57p (20 per cent) increase for and October to ensure the industry apprentices (from £2.73 to £3.30) is ready for this change.”
HOW MINIMUM WAGE WILL CHANGE FROM OCTOBER:
‘INCREDIBLES’ WANTED
NHF LONDON REGION is once again running its NHF Incredibles competition this spring, and is urging talented stylists to enter before the closing date of 30 April. The competition, which was launched last year, offers NHF members and their team members the opportunity to work with other talented new hairdressers as well as take part in a photoshoot alongside industry experts Jerome Hillion of Jerome Hillion Hair & Make-Up, and Darren Bain, senior educator at HOB Salons. There are three categories this year: Newcomer – for stylists in their first year, Future Generations – for stylists in their second or third year, and Young Hairdresser – for recently qualified stylists. London region chairman Mikaela Martin, said: “All three of the Incredibles categories are about inspiring your salon’s future generations. It’s a fabulous experience and great PR for the salon too.” It costs £15 to enter and the application form can be downloaded from nhf.info/incredibles
Image inset: Hair by NHF Incredibles Art Team 2014. Photography by Desmond Murray
SALONS URGED: ‘BE READY FOR NEW PAYROLL PENALTIES’
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 32
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION SEE MORE Grow your business with L’Oréal Professionnel and Creative HEAD. Visit creativeheadmag.com for more
Better off blonde *Google Trends public tool data 2015. **Relish qualitative research data
Find out how you can grow your blonde business with L’Oréal Professionnel FROM ICONIC HOLLYWOOD platinum blonde locks to more natural, sun-kissed strands, there’s no doubt blonde is big business for S/S15. And it’s not taken long for this trend to filter down to consumers, with searches for ‘blonde hair’ on Google* up 26 per cent year-on-year. Ensure your blonde offering in the salon is the best it can possibly be and ask yourself this: what do your blonde clients want and are you offering them a tailor-made service? According to qualitative research,** it’s not about just any blonde – it’s got to be the right blonde, so make sure that your consultations with clients are thorough. They may want a champagne blonde, but it has to suit their individual skin tone – be confident you’ve identified
the right shade to complement their overall look with L’Oréal Professionnel. L’Oréal Professionnel Education offers a number of courses to help you deliver a quality experience to your clients every time. For S/S15, ‘natural’ is a strong trend for blonde women, so anything that looks fake, dull, bleached or brassy is a big no-no. Blonde clients are looking for a colour result that is a blend of tones that achieve a more subtle finish. To achieve this, your salon has got to have a suitable palette of colour shades. New Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel, for instance, is ideal for creating cool, delicate blondes that shimmer in the sunlight. So make 2015 the year to perfect the blonde offering in your salon, with L’Oréal Professionnel.
Grow your colour business now with L’Oréal Professionnel. To find out more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/haircolour CREATIVE HEAD
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barometer
IT AIN’T EASY BEING GREEN
EARTH DAY is 22 April, drawing attention to green initiatives and eco measures that we can all embrace to help make the world a little happier and healthier. For some salons, sustainable beauty is a major part of their strategy, ensuring products used and on sale are greener options, and even salon build and interiors options are aligned to their eco way of life. “Some customers a little more question-oriented when it comes to eco,” says Heath Lavingdale, director of Feel Soho, “and parabens are something many ask about.” Beverley Bates, director of Ekko Hair in Banbury, admits that for her clients, a sustainable approach is a pull: “Our clientele is already aware of their impact on the environment and come to us because of our green ethos.” However, for some, the demand for green services has not yet reached tipping point. “No client has ever asked if we have an eco policy,” admits Ruby Mane, owner of Ruby Mane Hair in Farnham. Anne Pileggi, owner of Hairworks in Swindon adds: “I think it’s more a case of ‘If I’m happy with my hair and it’s eco-friendly, that’s fine’ – it’s results that matter.”
56%
ACCORDING TO SALON OF SALON OWNERS, 34% OWNERS CARE ABOUT ECO OF CLIENTS CARE MEASURES IN ABOUT GREEN THE SALON ISSUES
30%
OF SALONS OFFER AN ECO-FRIENDLY COLOUR OPTION
AND 44% STOCK 52% OF SALONS USE ECO TOWELS TAIL SOME KIND OF ECO PRODUCT FOR RE
FEBRUARY 2015 How was business February 2015 compared with January 2015?
DECLINING
How was business February 2015 compared with February 2014?
DECLINING
17%
17%
STEADY STEADY
26%
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GROWING
57%
13%
GROWING
70%
Top tips WASTE NOT, WANT NOT DURING MY TIME as a salon manager, I would look at my product bin at the end of the day, ready to record which products had been used. I often found myself alarmed at what was actually in there. We regularly picked out tubes of colour that weren’t empty and backwash shampoos that had plenty of unused product at the bottom where the pump couldn’t quite reach. I found it frustrating that good product was going to waste and we were losing money by failing to utilise every last drop. I now realise that teasing the last drops of shampoo from the bottle while my client waits patiently at the backwash isn’t the best image, but we can do a few simple things to minimise wastage. When anyone in the salon takes a new styling product off the shelf to use on a client, this should be recorded in your salon software and a sticky, coloured dot placed over the product’s barcode. This helps to track all items taken out for ‘professional use’ and the sticky dot helps identify the salon products from retail use. Another great tip is to have a single product shelf that everyone uses. Ensuring all stylists return products to one place after use prevents there being two or three of the same products open at the same time, reducing the amount you will need to order. All of us are guilty of buying too much, but ordering your stock based on what has been used is far more effective than ordering by guesswork. By utilising software to monitor your stock and usage, saving money couldn’t be easier.
Gregory Saunders, salon and spa consultant at Premier Software
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
Feel the
rush Ten reasons why becoming a Rush franchisee will be the start of something special
The support provided by Rush is exceptional. The brand will help you with funding, locating a salon, store design, fitting and staff recruitment. You’ll receive a dedicated franchise team from beginning to end. With a proven business model and 20 years of experience in hair and beauty, you will be joining a brand that knows how to make a salon successful. You’ll receive ongoing support with all of your media marketing, including promotions and campaigns. You’ll enjoy in-depth training programmes run by The Rush Academy – before opening and regularly afterwards.
Daily established operational support, delivered by Rush’s dedicated teams. No hairdressing experience is necessary. All you need is the ability to lead a team, provide exceptional customer service, a passion for the industry and an initial £15,000 investment. You’ll be joining an award-winning company that’s easily recognised by clients nationwide. The brand currently has numerous opportunities in high-profile locations available across the country. Rush Hair offers something that is truly special and unique. It is looking for more franchisees to join in and share the success it’s created, a level of acheivement that has been built by the trust of its clients.
Build a Rush Hair franchise today. To find out more, call 020 3740 6776, email franchising@rush.co.uk or visit rush.co.uk/franchise CREATIVE HEAD
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TO RECEIVE THE FREE IPAD EDITION OF CREATIVE HEAD AND TO GO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THIS SHOOT, VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/IPAD
COLOUR
DECODE This issue, exclusive to Creative HEAD, Colour Decoded shows you how to make this season’s trends your own with Lesley Jennison’s step by step guide to spring/summer’s hottest looks.
Exclusively in Creative HEAD, Colour Decoded is set to crack the colour code. The dynamic duo of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Global Colour Ambassador Lesley Jennison and Head of Education and Events Stephen McDowell are on hand to guide you through all things colour for 2015. With helpful hints and tips from our colour gurus in partnership with Schwarzkopf’s leading trend collections and product innovation, Colour Decoded is guaranteed to arm you with all the information you need to be on trend and deliver every client’s dream colour.
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OWN IT!
Stephen McDowell As head of technical for Schwarzkopf Professional, Stephen is the creative force responsible for training, inspiring and educating stylists across the UK and Ireland. Lesley Jennison Her radical vision and flair for colour took her from Vidal Sassoon apprenticeship to global recognition and has made her the ‘go to’ name on every celebrity’s lips for unsurpassed colour genius.
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L ESL EY JEN N ISON’ S STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO S PRI NG/SUMMER’ S HOTTEST LOOKS.
LOOK 1
1: 30ml of Igora Royal D-0 plus 10ml Igora Royal 9-98 mixed with 40ml of 3%
2
3
STEP 1
STEP 3
Pre-lighten the hair with Igora Vario mixed with 3% for a clean all over blonde.
STEP 2
Rinse and remove pre-lightener once desired colour is achieved and section as shown.
O WN I T !
THE COLOURS 2: 20ml of Igora Royal 9-65
plus 10ml of Igora Royal 9 ½-18 mixed with 30ml of 3%
4
Apply colour 1 to the entire loose section as shown.
STEP 4
Apply colour 2 to the top section as shown. Develop according to manufacturer’s instructions.
FINISHED LOOK The fringe can be dressed to either side to show off a different colour placement. For a smooth finish use OSiS+ Sparkler to add shine and OSiS+ Elastic to hold in place. Add OSiS+ Dust It for a tousled finish.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .................................................................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
LOOK 2
1: 30ml of Igora Royal 4-6
3: 30ml of Igora Royal 6-6
with 30ml of 3% 2: 30ml of Igora Royal 7-65 with 30ml of 6%
with 30ml of 6%
1
STEP 1
Divide the hair into three sections. Create an ‘eye’ shape section on the top of the head, from the front of the hairline to the occipital bone. Clip this in place. Follow the same shape for the middle section and clip, leaving the final section loose.
STEP 2
Apply colour 1 from the roots right through to the ends of the underneath section.
O WN I T !
THE COLOURS
3
4
STEP 3
FINISHED LOOK
STEP 4
Apply OSiS+ Glamination Plumping Shine Mousse and wrap dry. Style the hair with an iron for a smooth finish and style with OSiS+ Sparkler. For a more tousled effect, blast OSiS+ Session Label Strong Hold Hairspray through the hair with a hairdryer.
Apply colour 1 to the roots of the middle section, and apply colour 2 to the mid lengths and ends.
Apply colour 1 to the roots of the top section, and apply colour 3 to the mid lengths and ends.
V I S I T U S AT S K P - E L I T E . C O M / C O L O U R - D E C O D E D
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Lesley & Stephen
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GO BIG
BIGGER IS ALWAYS BETTER – THAT’S WHY YOU NEED THE NEWEST PRODUCTS FROM BACKSTAGE FAVOURITE OSIS+ SESSION LABEL BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
PEEK BEHIND THE scenes at S/S15 shows such as Vera Wang and Alice + Olivia and you’ll see a wealth of sleek black and silver bottles, gripped by some of the most creative stylists backstage. OSiS+ Session Label from Schwarzkopf Professional was unveiled two years ago to inspire and equip busy, fashion-savvy stylists both in and out of the salon… and now the line-up of essential products has just got bigger! Bouncy, voluminous locks are a regular fixture on the runway – and an obsession with thousands of fine-haired clients across the land. They think big and want their hair to look big – OSiS+ Session Label can build their tresses up to new heights with two exciting new launches. Session Label Volumizing Root Spray Mousse is the foundation fine hair needs. It provides instant root lift, grip and body in the lengths and outstanding shine with different levels of hold – simply layer it up to boost the body! The more you apply, the stronger the hold... yet there’s no crispy feeling that clients hate, just fabulous, weightless volume to help add a bit of bounce to their day. For those who need a little more TLC, offer Session Label Plumping Lotion. It’s the ideal little helper to build up long-lasting, volume while infusing hair with much-needed moisture to even out porosity. So clients will get gorgeous and glamorous volume with a healthy, almost velvety feel. Whatever your catwalk-inspired styling needs, you’ll find the perfect product with OSiS+ Session Label from Schwarzkopf Professional – and one that fans can take home to big up their look again and again!
Do you think big? Get your hands on the new additions to OSiS+ Session Label from Schwarzkopf Professional, call 01442 278000, visit schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or like us on Facebook /schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom 38
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INTRODUCING A WORLD OF STYLING POSSIBILITIES
NEW ghd curve速
Introducing ghd curve速, the new range of wands & tongs from ghd. Our patented tri-zone速 technology allows you to style constantly and evenly for healthier-looking curls that stay locked in all day and night. To discover a world of styling possibilities, contact your ghd account manager or call 0845 3301133.
LIFE’S A BEACH DON’T LET THE SUN, SEA AND SAND GET THE BETTER OF YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR THIS SUMMER – GIVE THEM THE TOTALLY BEACHIN’ SUMMER RANGE FROM BED HEAD BY TIGI
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THE BEACH – that long-dreamed-of place that seems even dreamier as you gaze out of your window onto a grey, drizzly afternoon. You yearn for golden sands and rolling waves, where drawn-out days ease into warm, romantic nights. But what’s often forgotten in those daydreams is the damage done to hair during that holiday fling. Your clients may love being by the beach or poolside, but salty water, chlorine, humidity and baking sunshine can leave hair dried out, brittle, broken and frizzy. This summer, let your clients show the beach who’s boss with Bed Head by TIGI’s Totally Beachin’ summer range. Bed Head put its new formulas through a two-week torture test to make sure they really work in extreme holiday conditions (a Miami getaway to be precise – it’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it) and is confident the Totally Beachin’ range is the only thing your clients need this summer.
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YOUR CLIENTS’ #BACKOFFBEACH RESCUE KITS INCLUDES: Totally Beachin’ Shampoo and Conditioner Clients can get rid of sea, sand and sweat with this Jelly Shampoo. A gently cleansing formula that’s bursting with juicy citrus freshness, it leaves tresses looking soft and shiny and is completely colour safe. Follow up with the Totally Beachin’ After-Sun Conditioner. This mellow balm calms sun-stressed locks. Together, these products promise to reduce damage by up to 99 per cent. Beach Freak Moisturizing Detangler Spray For all those clients who could give Medusa’s tangle of snakes a run for their money, give them this detangling spray to help calm their tresses. This little beauty lubricates strands that have become dried out from salt and chlorine water, as well as from being baked in the sun. Beach Bound Protection Spray for coloured hair With UV filters and pink grapefruit extract offering frizz-defying properties and heat defence up to 230°C, this miracle spray will leave clients’ hair feeling beach-ready. It’s also a dream for colour addicts as it helps to boost their locks’ natural protection against humidity, which can be reduced by the colouring process.
Make sure your clients are beach-ready now with Bed Head by TIGI’s Totally Beachin’ range. For more details, visit bedhead.com or call 0844 844 0944. CREATIVE HEAD
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WHETTING THE APPETITES of TrendVision hopefuls up and down the country, teams from Marc Antoni and Cheynes Hairdressing joined Sanrizz’s Leonardo Rizzo and Sharon Cox to inspire and delight at the exclusive Wella TrendVision Award Insight Events. There was plenty of expert advice on entering 2015’s TrendVision Award, and when we caught up with the tour in London, the team from Marc Antoni hit the stage to illustrate their interpretations of this year’s two trends. The Journey to Enlightenment combines light qualities with soft colours, while The New Frontier uses spicy shades and untamed textures. There was also plenty of advice on how to make your entry stand out from the crowd. Last year’s Young Talent Platinum Award winner, Nestor Sanchez Gomez from HOB Salons, spoke about the importance of picking the right model and trend, while Zullo & Holland’s Sue Comery discussed how winning UK Gold in 2014’s Color Vision category has changed her career. We can’t wait to see who makes it to the regional finals.
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Bruno Marc Giamattei, Nestor Sanchez Gomez and Dan Spiller
enlightenment
Leonardo Rizzo
AGE OF
Cheynes’ Paul Adamczuk
Nestor Sanchez Gomez and Sue Cormery
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
Cheynes’ Danny Dowie
Scene
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Sam with Bip Ling Sam with Charli XCX READ MORE from Hare & Bone’s Sam Burnett in our Visionaries special
Sam with Alexis Knox
In good
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COMPANY IT’S PRETTY IMPRESSIVE when a salon party can boast names such as Bip Ling, Daisy Lowe and Jaime Winstone, but that’s how Sam Burnett rolls. Celebrating the start of London Fashion Week A/W15 (as well as the Hare & Bone’s launch, only a couple of months after opening its doors), the celebrity client list even included singer Charli XCX, who was on her way to the NME Awards. “I really wanted to have this event as a way of saying thank you to everyone, as well as officially launching my own salon,” said Sam. With a mix of champagne and a wig bar to play with, the fun ran late into the night...
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Darren Reed Skyler McDonald
Paula Greeff with Sean Hanna
IT’S ALWAYS GOOD to get the team together, especially when you have salons across the country. About 100 seanhanna staff descended upon The Bedford in Balham to get the party started, keen to celebrate the big achievers of the past year. Starting everything was the seanhanna Creative Team, which wowed with a selection of innovative looks, followed by artistic director Yesmin O’Brien, who illustrated her expertise with hair extensions. Special guests from ghd, the NHF and L’Oréal Professional Products Division were on hand to help reveal the night’s big winners, alongside owner Sean Hanna and general manger, Louise Curtis. But who took home the prizes?
Retail Stylist of the Year – Lucie MonBillard, Putney Retail Receptionist of the Year – Jacqui Gear, Cambridge Edward Bywaters Award – Phoebe Barnes, Canary Wharf People’s Choice Award – Adam Vincent, Bristol Receptionist of the Year – Punam Patel, Canary Wharf Stylist of the Year – Paula Greeff, Canary Wharf Manager of the Year – Gemma Lowe, Sutton Trainee Creative Image Award – Phoebe Barnes, Canary Wharf Mens Creative Image Award – Darren Reed, Wimbledon Colour Creative Image Award – Colin Knight, Cambridge Style Creative Image Award – Colin Knight, Cambridge Avant Garde Creative Image Award – Lucie MonBillard, Putney Special Recognition – Tomm Bucknell, Putney Salon of the Year – Wimbledon
Jacqui Gear
night
Yesmin O’Brien
Creative Team show
Colin Knight Wimbledon salon staff
PRIZE
And the winners are…
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GO GREEN: save money Becoming an eco salon needn’t be expensive, Aveda shows how doing business in a way that respects the Earth is great for business IT TURNS OUT that what’s good for your business is also good for the planet – what’s not to love about that? You get to feel good about caring for the planet and many of these small changes add up to saving you money. One of the easiest ways to go green is choosing to partner with an eco-friendly brand. For Terry Sowerby, co-owner of Baroque Hair in Harrogate and Ripon, that brand was Aveda. “It was the obvious choice,” he explains. “It’s an exclusive brand with a strong ethical approach and it has an interesting story to tell.” Choosing an eco-friendly brand promotes client loyalty as more and more people become eco-conscious and begin to actively seek out sustainable brands. “When we partnered with Aveda, we found out how it ethically sources its ingredients and supports the farmers who supply these ingredients,” says Terry. “We then educated our clients, who in turn bought into the concept and became loyal and engaged with us.” With help from Aveda, Terry is educating his team on how to become more eco-minded. “Investing time in the education and training of your team to be energy aware will see a return on your expenditure,” he explains. “The basics, such as excessive use of hot water and of colour, along with a reduction in product wastage, will give you a return on your expenditure, but cost you only the time it takes to educate your team.” He also took the time to invest in eco-efficient measures for his salons. For Baroque’s Ripon salon, he insulated the
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“There are two main benefits to adopting the green approach. It offers you a unique selling point and it generates income while reducing outgoings through energy saving” TERRY SOWERBY, CO-OWNER OF BAROQUE HAIR
Being green is easier than you think • Choose organic and Fairtrade goods when offering snacks and beverages to your clients • Bring live plants into your salon as opposed to cut flowers – they help to purify the air as well as look beautiful • Look out for equipment and light bulbs that have energysaving features • Understand your water bill and review it monthly, so you can keep on top of any savings to be made • Choose eco-friendly cleaning products for the salon • Remind your team to to be mindful of water usage • Buy products made from recycled paper, plastic or metal • Introduce eco heads at the backwash to reduce water consumption, without compromising client experience.
walls and ceilings, fitting LED lighting and heating the salon with air source heat pumps, which also cool the salon in the summer. While this involved making an initial expenditure, he believes it was a wise investment. But there are many other smaller changes that salons can do, Terry stresses, such as separating the cardboard packaging, foil and plastics bottles from general waste: “A recycling company collects all the materials from our salon, which is far more cost-effective than trade waste charges, saving us money and ensuring our recyclables don’t end up in a landfill.” He sums it up: “There are two main benefits to adopting the green approach. It offers you a unique selling point and it generates income while reducing outgoings through energy saving.” But Terry believes the main benefit is knowing you are doing your part in caring for the world. “If our actions save at least one child’s life, then our efforts have been worthwhile.”
Aveda can support you every step of your journey. Call 0870 192 5650 or visit aveda.co.uk/grow CREATIVE HEAD
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A global effort Aveda celebrates Earth Month by helping to raise awareness and money to protect clean water worldwide
FIND OUT MORE about what Earth Month is helping at greengrants.org
Image: Global Greengrants
SHINE A LIGHT
YOU MAY KNOW that Aveda is a sustainable and eco-friendly brand, but what you may not know is the great lengths it goes to protecting the planet and its people. The brand leads the way in producing eco-friendly of the products and finding sustainable solutions to g 100 per cent da is donatin ve A signature its of packaging, so much so that it’s the first beauty luding VAT) xc (e e ic pr les to Global purchase company in the world manufacturing products with the Way cand ht ig L on iti organisation limited-ed 100 per cent certified wind power in its primary , a non-profit nd Fu ts ts an gr Green ts to grassroo facility. Aveda’s values and beliefs shine through -impact gran gh hi l ls ta ne en an nm that ch lve enviro during Earth Month, where every April the network working to so e e ar th at th ar ye ps grou orld. This unites to raise money and awareness to protect clean around the w by problems all were created x bo water at home and around the world. e candle r, ca as ag images on th ad a, M Last year, its global network of beauty professionals g in Manakar om children livin fr d te ady benefit and employees in more than 30 countries raised who have alre projects. M $6 million (£4 million) for clean water. This year, it aims to Earth onth go one step further and raise $6.5 million (£4.3 million). Aveda also looks to do business in a sustainable way by partnering with indigenous communities to source local ingredients for Aveda products. The community benefits from the economic opportunity and security that the partnership creates. Through all of these initiatives, Aveda hopes to show how committed it is to changing the way the world does business, as well as helping its salon network grow their businesses by becoming more sustainable and profitable. It’s all part of Aveda’s drive for sustainability, so see how Aveda is celebrating Earth Month and helping to push for a more ethical and eco-friendly world this month.
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WHY DOES AVEDA EARTH MONTH MAKE SENSE FOR YOU? • Engage your enviromentallyconscious clients. Consumers are actively seeking out eco brands. • It offers your salon a unique selling point. • Your clients are more likely to show loyalty when they are engaged by your vision.
THE CUT-A-THON This year, Aveda is once again uniting for its annual global Cut-AThon. Aveda stylists will volunteer their time to offer services in return for a donation. After each appointment, clients will be encouraged to share a ‘Selfless Selfie’ showing off their new look. The Cut-A-Thon is a great way to recruit new clients, while helping a good cause.
Support Aveda’s Earth Month and make a difference. For more details, call 0870 192 5650 or visit aveda.co.uk/grow
CREATIVE HEAD
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15 YEARS
THE ULTIMATE ACCOLADE
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15 YEARS CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AWARDS ARE BACK AND OPEN FOR ENTRIES. EARNED YOUR STRIPES? GET YOUR TROPHY TEAM AWARDS
INDIVIDUAL AWARDS
BEST SALON TEAM For teamwork at its best Category sponsor
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For a salon that best serves its local community
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Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved successful, either for the salon business or for the industry at large
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MOST WANTED 2015 IS OPEN TO UK-BASED HAIRDRESSERS AND SALONS COMPETITION CLOSES Monday 18 May 2015 ENTRY FORMS creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted TALK TO US 01434 610940 @creativeheadmag #MWIT15
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Work it. Love it. Win it.
Get on The It List – hairdressing's coolest and most credible competition for gifted young stylists Presented by
Sponsored by
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d e s a b K U l Open to al rs e s s e r d r i a h r e d n u r o 0 aged 3 17/2/15 15:57:38
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the entrepreneUr For a younG saLon owner wHo Has CreaTed an exCITInG and suCCessFuL new busIness
the VisiOnarY For a sTyLIsT or TeCHnICIan wHo Is pusHInG CreaTIve boundarIes
the it girl & the it gUY Two TropHIes – one For a FemaLe wInner, one For a maLe wInner – eaCH awarded To someone exCeLLInG In aLL areas oF HaIrdressInG and desTIned For GreaTness
competition cLoSeS Friday 22 may 2015 entry formS creativeheadmag.com/theitlist enQUirieS 01434 610940 @creativeheadmag #mwIT15
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THE PATH TO GLORY Wella Professionals is searching for the newest rising stars as it takes to the road for the inspirational TrendVision Award Regional Heats
WELLA PROFESSIONALS is hitting the road next month to bring you four inspirational Regional Heats as part of its TrendVision Award competition. Following 12 Insight events around the UK and Ireland in February, which saw Cheynes, Marc Antoni and Sanrizz salons sharing inspirational advice on how to create a brilliant TrendVision Award entry, hundreds entered the initial photographic stage with a model look based on the Wella Trends for 2015 – The Journey of Enlightenment and The New Frontier. From the hundreds of entries, the top 144 competitors have now been selected to go through to the Regional Heats in May where they will battle it out to represent the UK at the UK & Ireland Final on 5 October at the Roundhouse. Make sure you don’t miss your chance to see who will go through to the next stage by getting your ticket to a Regional Heat near you now.
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REGIONAL HEATS TAKE PLACE ON:
TUESDAY 12 MAY – SCOTLAND AND NORTH EAST Corn Exchange, Edinburgh WEDNESDAY 13 MAY – NORTH Hilton Deansgate, Manchester MONDAY 18 MAY – SOUTH Grange Tower Bridge, London TUESDAY 19 MAY – MIDLANDS East Midlands Conference Centre, Nottingham
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“The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award is the perfect opportunity to showcase what you are capable of to top industry professionals. Winning gold has definitely benefited the business at Zullo & Holland and my own career. It creates a positive image of the N TICKETS ARE O salon locally, and SALE NOW – T! shows the general DON’T MISS OU 0 £4 s: et ck ti public and our One to four ckets: £35 ti e or m or Five clients that we are uding VAT) r person, incl pe e ic pr t ke (tic aspiring to be the ETS NOW! BOOK YOUR TICK best at what we do” or email 0845 601 8128 Call @pg.com wellaevents.im
ANGELO VALLILLO, ZULLO & HOLLAND
REGIONAL HEATS – THREE INSPIRATIONAL SHOWS From left to right: Caroline Spencer, Bruce Masefield and Edward Darley will present the Sassoon Academy S/S15 collection.
From left to right: Darren Ambrose, Abby Smith and Clayde Baumann of D&J Ambrose present the Wella Professionals A/W15 trend.
From left to right: See the EIMI Style Team collection, created by Rudi Rizzo of Sanrizz, Tom Wright of Soul Hair, Harriett Calvert of Nicky Clarke, Natasha Dalziel of Cheynes, and Nestor Sanchez Gomez of HOB Salons.
Keep up to date with the latest TrendVision Award news on Twitter @wellapro #tva and at Facebook.com/WellaUK CREATIVE HEAD
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STYLING
Style savıours From blow-dry bars to product superstars, we investigate how you can maximise all things styling
Blow time
First there was Hershesons Blow Dry Bar, then Blow Ltd, quickly followed by Cheeky Parlour, Duck & Dry and Gwyneth Paltrow’s Blo venture launching in London after eight years in the US. Before we knew it, blow-dry bars were popping up all over the country. Instead of being a passing fancy, blowdry bars are now a necessity to many clients. But why? “Clients love blow-dry bars because they can get a salon look without spending a lot of time or money,” says Andy Smith, creative director at realhair, whose sister blow-dry bar, blo by realhair, has about 1,000 visits a month. “They start by having a blow-dry every other week. Within two to three months they are booking weekly. We have many clients who haven’t washed their hair since we opened, as they visit us three times a week,” adds Andy. Blow-dry bars are also usually open much longer than salons are, to fit around their clients’ lives. “We are open seven days a week and on weekdays from 7.30am to 7.30pm,” says Yulia Rorstrom, founder of Duck & Dry. “Our early appointments are popular with professional women who like to start their day with a proper cup of coffee and a quality blow dry.” The speed of services is a key driver in their continuing success, as is affordability, with prices ranging from £20 to £35. But you don’t need a whole blow-dry bar, all you need is an easily understandable blow-dry menu for clients. “Provide the client with as much information as you can to help them make their decision and enjoy their experience – menus, visual imagery and a great consultation are a must,” says Paul Edmonds, who recently launched a bespoke blow-dry
service in his eponymous London-based salon. He also advises: “You have to know who your clients are, what would they like and what level of expertise you would require to execute the blow-drys. Your menu has to incorporate commercial and financial aspects, too. Is this service going to be a revenue generator or a great way to introduce clients to your brand?” But if a blow-dry bar isn’t your thing, there are other options you can consider.
Looks booked
Philip Bell, co-owner of Ishoka Hair & Beauty, introduced a style bar after being asked for key looks. “Our style bar was designed to give clients set options for the perfect style, whether it be for a party, wedding or a night out. It consists of five top styles we are consistently asked for, at a set price of £28,” he says. To make his style bar work, Philip had to set a few guidelines. “We ask clients to book an appointment as we do get busy,” he says. The salon also requests clients to shampoo and condition their hair before they visit the salon, so that when they come in they just have to select their style, sit back and relax. “It has been a fantastic addition to our business in terms of clients and revenue,” adds Philip. If you don’t want to permanently invest in something like a style bar, you could introduce it gradually, making it available on certain days. The knock-on effect for Ishoka is that it has also increased its beauty business as “clients tend to book a beauty appointment at the same time as booking the Style Bar”, Philip adds.
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#Styling
Image features the new Blow-Styling Hairbrush by Tangle Teezer
P.S. Mousse is back! Yes, you read that right. Along with double denim and oversized sweaters, the ’80s favourite is making a comeback. “Back in the ’80s, mousses were released to work with the old ‘scrunch dry’, leaving the hair dry and crunchy. It was really more of a one-size-fits-all product that didn’t do enough,” says session stylist Kevin Ryan. “Today’s mousses, such as Unite’s Elevate Mousse, help to moisturise and heal the hair while adding shine, hold and volume.” So what else can a mousse offer your clients today? “Natural-looking volume is a big trend right now and mousse products are great for achieving this,” says Dafydd Rhys, assistant director at Ken Picton salon, who recommends ghd style Total Volume Foam. Scott Smurthwaite, managing director of Cream Hair and Beauty, argues that mousses have evolved so much they’re almost unrecognisable. “It’s virtually a new product,” he says. “The Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+ Glamination Shine Mousse hasn’t a hint of crunch, so much so that you can use it on dry hair for added texture and hold. That’s definitely not something I thought I would say about a mousse.”
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#Styling
Now trending THE TRIO OF LOOKS YOU’RE GOING GET REALLY GOOD AT IN THE SALON THIS S/S15
Barbara Casasola S/S15, courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel
The ReLux
Adam Reed, co-owner of Percy & Reed, explains: “This season we saw a return to texture that I dubbed ReLux – relaxed luxury. It sees beautifully conditioned, healthy and glossy hair teamed with a more relaxed shape, making a low-slung ponytail the perfect style. As long as your client’s hair texture looks luxurious, the pony should look simple and relaxed. Backstage at Barbara Casasola S/S15, we created the texture on damp hair with Tecni.ART Wet Domination Extreme Splash Elastic Wet Look Gelée by L’Oréal Professionnel.”
Marc by Marc Jacobs S/S15, courtesy of Redken
The braided bun
Kieron Fowles, creative director of Supercuts, reveals: “Section into four and French plait the hair from the fringe to the left of the face. Repeat on the other side. Gather into a mid-ponytail, then split into two sections and plait, securing with hair elastic. Wrap the two plaits around each other to form a bun and secure with pins.”
The topknot
Tina Farey, editorial director for Rush, says: “One of the musthave looks for S/S15, the topknot is hugely versatile and can be worn as a glamorous up-do or as a casual daytime style. The key to perfecting the topknot is to backcomb the hair at the base of the ponytail; this will help to create height and fullness in your client’s topknot. To create sleek sophistication, run a serum through the ends of the hair. For a more casual look, wrap the hair around the base of the ponytail and pin it in place before roughing-up the topknot.”
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#Styling
Tooled up MILLIONS OF PEOPLE ARE RELIANT ON THEM EVERY DAY TO ACHIEVE THEIR STYLES. SO WHY DO ELECTRICALS ONLY REALLY SELL AT CHRISTMAS?
GO ON, ADMIT IT. You only really promote electrical tools between October and December, don’t you? Maybe you feel this is the only time clients really plan to buy something big, or maybe you don’t like the idea of trying to get them to buy something expensive after they’ve splurged on a cut and colour. Whatever your reasons, it’s time to start pushing those tools. Currently as much as 95 per cent of the bigger electrical brands’ turnover comes from online sales. But don’t let this put you off – you just have to devise retail initiatives that encourage clients to purchase the tools in-salon. “We constantly run retail incentives for staff and if we use any electrical tools on clients, we talk them through how to use the tools to recreate the look at home,” says Steve Rowbottom,
director at Westrow. “As a result, it’s often clear they won’t be able to achieve the desired look at home without the tools their stylist has used, which helps to encourage purchases.” Paul Mitchell’s Six Economies system focuses on particular salon areas, such as the Tool Bar, as a way of growing retail revenue. Gary Young, owner of The Grover Experience, in Eastbourne, has embraced the Paul Mitchell Tool Bar concept by making it a focal point of the salon. “Our new Tool Bar is right in front of the door,” says Gary. “We also have hands-on and ‘try before you buy’ policies.” And while Christmas is a big time for pushing tools, Steve suggests the global fashion weeks as another good period, as clients will be eager to try new catwalk looks.
Air apparent THERE’S A LOT MORE TO HAIRDRYERS THAN JUST HOT AIR
SHINE AND POWER
ECONOMY AND PRECISION
COOL AND CALM
Hair oils remain as popular as ever, so it makes sense that clients will love their hairdryer to be coated in the stuff, too! The Genesis dryer by Diva features a ceramic and tourmaline front grille that is coated in macadamia oil, argan oil and keratin, offering unbeatable shine. The dryer also boasts Infinity-Field ionic technology to reduce static and speed up drying, while the lightweight design, powerful motor and precision styling concentrator makes drying hair easier than ever before.
The ghd aura hairdryer promises to do it all, including make hair more shiny and more voluminous, while being smaller and lighter than ever. Created by the clever bods in ghd’s research and development facility in Cambridge, the ghd aura features new Laminair technology to deliver a more concentrated, non-turbulent air stream. This allows better precision and control. But one of our favourite things about it is that it uses 17 per cent less energy – perfect for the eco-minded salon.
Designed in a Swiss lab, the Valera Swiss Silent Jet 8600 Ionic Hairdryer features new Smart Airflow Technology to eliminate unwanted friction and dispersion within the dryer, reducing noise without reducing power. It also claims to dry hair 35 per cent faster than other dryers – perfect for stylists short on time. Available exclusively from Aston & Fincher, the 2,400W dryer also comes with a ‘touch me’ cool nozzle.
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Drop Red Gorgeous
Reveal new radiance and colour intensity with ed red by chill* Created especially for red heads, this luxurious shampoo moisturises and protects natural or colour treated hair, as the conditioner infuses exclusive colour pigments to illuminate and enhance red tones ! Go on, be a vixen !
@chillukhair
chillukhair
www.chill.uk.com
chillukhair
#Styling
THE TEXTURISER
THE TIME REDUCER
THE HAIRSPRAY
THE VOLUMISER
“For quick texture, I suggest I.C.O.N. CURE Double Body Serum and I.C.O.N. Powder and Reformer to create a thickening effect for a pro yet messy look”
“The Cloud Nine Magical Quick Dry Potion is a blow-drying spray that cuts drying time by up to 50 per cent and protects against heat”
“I recommend the Air Loader hairspray by Affinage to my clients. It dries quickly and is super light with optimum hold, and it brushes out effortlessly”
“I love La Biosthétique Volumising Lotion. It gives weightless hold, maximum volume and strengthens the hair, which is a great selling point”
LOUISE JENKINS, NATIONAL MASTER TRAINER AT I.C.O.N.
ANGEL MONTAGUE-SAYERS, SESSION STYLIST
TRACEY DEVINE SMITH, GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR AFFINAGE
BEVERLEY BATES, DIRECTOR OF EKKO SALON
THE BLOW-STYLER
“Not only does the new Tangle Teezer Blow-Styling Hairbrush look stylish in my kit, it delivers protective drying. Tension is built into the fixed teeth so there’s no stretch drying, the finish is outstanding. The client will be able to recreate this look if they use one at home with very little effort”
Shelf life
THE CURLER
R UCTS YOU THE PROD OULDN’T SH CLIENTS UT – FROM O BE WITH W THE KNO THOSE IN
PAUL PERCIVAL, CO-OWNER OF PERCY & REED
SALLY O’NEILL, SESSION STYLIST
THE BRUSH
THE DRY SHAMPOO
“The BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl is quick, tidy and, as long as you section neatly, almost impossible to get wrong. This makes it an ideal retail product”
THE GEL
“The way the bristles are positioned on the KentSalon KS04 Dressing Out Brush means that you can instantly backcomb. The design is also perfect for creating volume and smoothing the ends”
“The EIMI Dry Me dry shampoo from Wella Professionals is an essential. It’s an ideal product for creating head-turning volume and matte texture and works for any client”
“With Wet Domination Extreme Splash Elastic Wet Look Gelée by L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART, the super-slick looks of the runway can be recreated to give gloss and hold without the grease”
TRACEY JONES, CELEBRITY HAIR AND MAKE-UP ARTIST
NESTOR SANCHEZ-GOMEZ, STYLIST FOR HOB SALONS
VANESSA ESSACK, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AT PAUL EDMONDS
THE SMOOTHER
“I love using the Aveda Smooth Infusion Style-Prep Smoother, it gives long-lasting results, protection from heat and defends against humidity for up to 12 hours” ANTOINETTE BEENDERS, GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR AVEDA
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Styling the future #LBStyling
A Beautiful Style Revolution Creative, wearable style is easier than ever with the new generation of styling ranges from LA BIOSTHETIQUE. It’s simple; BASE, STYLE and FINISH. - Visually stunning package design - Professional and client friendly products - New and improved premium ingredients Introducing our latest additions to the family; POWDER SPRAY the ultimate dry shampoo, GLOSSING SPRAY super weightless aerosol shine spray and CURL PROTECT & STYLE curl defining heat protection for healthy, bouncy curls.
To find out how LA BIOSTHETIQUE can help you create success for your business call 01296 611 731 www.biosthetique.co.uk info@biosthetique.co.uk /labiosthetiqueuk
CH April SP 2015 2.indd 1
@BiosthetiqueUK
@biosthetiqueuk
3/11/2015 3:48:36 PM
#Styling
‘We couldn’t find it – so we made it ourselves’ MEET THE STYLISTS WHO CREATED THEIR OWN BRANDS…
Andrew Dale, Unite Creative HEAD: Why did you choose to launch Unite? Andrew Dale: A brand was needed that would really take care of the hairdresser. The industry didn’t need another shampoo, it needed a brand that would strive to make stylists’ lives easier. CH: What’s your favourite Unite product so far? AD: 7SECONDS Leave-In Conditioner. It’s perfect for everyone. Not only does it instantly condition and detangle the hair, it also acts as a UV protector, thermal protector and even a cutting lotion!
Sacha Mitic, Sachajuan Creative HEAD: What was missing from the products you found on the market?
Sacha Mitic: Clarity of communication and formulas suited for our kind of needs. It’s essential that the end consumer and the stylist understand the products they use, how to use them and what they are buying. CH: How do you develop your products? SM: It’s grounded in salon and session styling experience. The products are developed with the best manufacturers in Sweden, tested in a salon environment and quality-assured by us.
Anthony Mascolo, TIGI Creative HEAD: What gaps in the market did you spot? Anthony Mascolo: The real growth came in 1996 when we launched the Bed Head Stick. It was the time of Brit-Pop and bands such as Oasis were wearing their hair in an unkempt way. The concept of ‘more time in bed, less on your hair’ really took off. CH: How different is it being a creator to being a stylist? AM: The two go together. We always say TIGI is “created by hairdressers for hairdressers” and that is true today. We are always thinking about how we want hair to be and what we want to achieve in an ideal world.
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ROCK A
DIFFUSED COLOUR FINISH for fashion-forward colour.
Muted Mauve
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Clear Dust
Smokey Amethyst
Ocean Storm
Jaded Mint
Pink Dream
10/03/2015 15:56
P R EC I S I O N TO O L S F O R THE PERFECTIONIST
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tel. 01282 444900 | kentsalon.co.uk
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@creativeheadmag fresh thinking on business #salonsmart15
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
@creativeheadmag
GROW YOUR
SALON BUSINESS
SALON SMART 26-27 April 2015
Park Plaza Riverbank, London
BOOK NOW 01434 610944 Weekend pass £189* Day pass £99
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Inspiring speakers Practical workshops Live Q&A sessions The Working Lunch Non-stop networking
FULL GO ONLINE FOR THE
PROGRAMME
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SHARED IDEAS REAL EXPERIENCES EXCLUSIVE INSIGHT EXPERT ADVICE FRESH NEW THINKING
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YOUR WHOLE BUSINESS T U O PACKAGE D L ÂŁ189 @creativeheadmag fresh thinking on business #salonsmart15
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S T E ICK T S S A P D EN K E E W ! RY R SO
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*
Sunday 26 and Monday 27 April 2015
*Based on two people sharing a twin or double room. Single room supplement of ÂŁ55 applies. Ticket terms and conditions apply; visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/ticketsandvenue
Your ticket includes: l All main stage sessions l Meet & Mix reception l Three-course dinner with wine l After-dinner hair presentation l Overnight stay (Sunday) with breakfast l Practical workshops l Live Q&A session l The Working Lunch l Prize draw entry l Non-stop networking l Goodie bag Sponsored by
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MONDAY ONLY SCHEDULE ÂŁ99 Day pass
Monday 27 April 2015
Your ticket includes: l Monday’s main stage sessions l Practical workshops l Live Q&A session l The Working Lunch l Prize draw entry l Non-stop networking l Goodie bag Ticket terms and conditions apply; visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/ticketsandvenue
26-27 April 2015 Park Plaza Riverbank, London
BOOK NOW 01434 610944
In association with
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THIS SEASON’S STARS THE HAIR, PRODUCTS AND PEOPLE BEHIND THE TRENDS SPOTTED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK, BROUGHT TO YOU BY KMS CALIFORNIA
THE TRENDS
We all know fashion and hair go hand in hand – it’s why fashion is your perfect partner and a key reason why KMS California has teamed up with Sam Burnett. The brand has worked with the session stylist and KMS California ambassador to create the Fashion Favourites Styling Menu. It comprises four catwalk-inspired styles along with step-by-steps on how to recreate each look – ideal for clients looking for a bit of hair inspiration. The looks are (pictured clockwise from top): The Modern Braid, The New Bang, High Shine Wet Look and Glamorous Rocker. To support this on-trend menu, KMS California and Sam Burnett are bringing these looks to life at youtube.com/kmscaliforniauk.
OUR HERO
Session stylists were spotted across the fashion weeks using the FREESHAPE 2-in-1 styling + finishing spray by KMS California. Why? It’s the perfect product to use on dry hair before using heated tools and will hold a look on the catwalk and beyond.
DISCOVER HOW to create these looks in the Fashion Favourites Look Book by KMS California, call 01323 432100 FASHION FAVOURITES
LOOK BOOK15 spring/summer
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
A/W15 DED UP PEEK ATIFO A SNEAKT FOR RNIA HEA KMS CAL
Sam Burnett
SAM BURNET HION WEEK FOR A/W15, TWO SHOWS AT LONDON FAS AKSU AND THOMAS TAIT CREATING LOOKS AT BORA
BORA AKSU
THE INSPIRATION: The inspiration stems from the songbird in Oscar Wilde’s The Nightingale and the Rose where Bora Aksu explores sacrifices in the pursuit of love. The silhouettes are lean and rich, defined and feminine, reflected in the flowing, natural waves of the side ponytail. KEY PRODUCT: KMS California FREESHAPE 2-in-1 styling + finishing spray. SAM BURNETT SAYS: “It’s always fantastic working with Bora as he has a strong idea of what he likes but is always so open to ideas. The hair portrays a soft, innocent style that combines with the dark side of the collection, which is represented by the shorter, more structured side of the hair.”
THOMAS TAIT
THE INSPIRATION: The inspiration was ‘sci-fi spaghetti western’, with structured and lean silhouettes. The hair was natural yet structured, mirroring the strong lines and movement within the clothes. KEY PRODUCT: KMS California HAIRPLAY sea salt spray. SAM BURNETT SAYS: “It’s been fantastic to work with Thomas Tait. The collection is modern and engineered – with an almost extra-terrestrial feel. I wanted to create free, movable hair that’s almost undone, exposing the hair’s natural movement and beauty. While the look has elements of lived-in texture, it still maintains natural shine and an aspirational quality.”
THE FASHION FAVOURITES
THE KMS CALIFORNIA PRODUCTS STYLISTS CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT • HAIRSTAY maximum hold spray • HAIRSTAY styling gel • FREESHAPE 2-in-1 styling + finishing spray • ADDVOLUME volumizing spray • HAIRPLAY makeover spray • HAIRPLAY dry wax • HAIRPLAY playable texture
THIS SEASON’S HOTTEST ACCESSORY!
Bora Aksu has designed a scar f exclusively for KMS California. This limited edition accessory is free with the purchase of two KM S California products and is the perf ect way to tempt clients into the salo n.
Get clients ready for the new season with KMS California. Speak to your KMS sales consultant or call 01323 432100 CREATIVE HEAD
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I want… When it comes to getting what they want out of their styles, these pros wouldn’t be without Cloud Nine. Here’s why
SEEING YOUR CREATIONS come alive is one of the best things about being a hairdresser. So it makes sense to choose a brand known as much for having a visionary founder as for having ground-breaking products. Cloud Nine founder, Robert Powls, had a vision: to make super-smooth locks available to all women. As the creator of ghd before the award-winning Cloud Nine in 2009, you could say he knows a thing or two about realising a vision. Cloud Nine is always predicting trends ahead of time and providing the tools needed to make life easier for the hairdresser and the client. But don’t just take our word for it, see what some of the best in the industry are saying about Cloud Nine…
...TO CREATE CLASSIC RED CARPET LOOKS
“Cloud Nine tools are integral to achieving beautiful red carpet looks, and they use less heat compared with other brands”
ANNA COFONE, SESSION STYLIST
...TOOLS THAT BOOST MY CREATIVITY
“I love the Cloud Nine Waving Wand. It enhances my creativity by doing whatever I want it to! It not only styles the hair really fast, but helps maintain the style”
CHARLEY MCEWEN, CELEBRITY STYLIST
...PRODUCTS THAT ENHANCE MY STYLES
“When you are in a rush on shoots or shows, the Cloud Nine Magical Quick Dry Potion is a must-have as it reduces drying time. I also like The O Amplify Spray to prep the hair before heat styling”
PHILIPPE THOLIMET, SESSION STYLIST
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
...TOOLS THAT MAKE MY JOB EASIER
Cloud Nine tools do their job with ease! My favourites are The O for volume, closely followed by The Wand – its ability to curl hair in all sorts of ways is magical”
JOHNNIE SAPONG, CELEBRITY STYLIST
...A BRAND I CAN RELY ON
“Cloud Nine is innovative, but its products are also so versatile. They can be relied upon for premium quality, which is what I need and want for my kit bag”
ANGEL MONTAGUE-SAYERS, SESSION STYLIST
...EASY TO USE TOOLS FOR FAST STYLING
“I’m doing a lot of TV work and time is precious! Cloud Nine’s The O rollers are amazing – they heat up in seconds and are easy to use. I use the whole range and I couldn’t recommend it enough”
MAGDALENA TUCHOLSKA, SESSION STYLIST
...TO CREATE VOLUMINOUS CURLS QUICKLY
“Cloud Nine’s Original Wand creates professional curls and lots of volume in just minutes. It is a must-have styling wand for my signature blow-drys”
SNOWDEN HILL, SESSION STYLIST
Make dreams come true with Cloud Nine. Call 0845 026 7121 or visit cloudninehair.com. Keep up to date on Twitter @CloudNineC9 and Facebook at cloudninehair CREATIVE HEAD
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#Visionaries
THE BOY WHO WANTS THE
Jonathan De Francesco
R E N T. E F F I D K N I THEY TH N T. E R E F F I D THEY ACT RENT! E F F I D E V WE LO NARIES O I S I V E H T MEET OUR G N I T T E S E WHO AR CING A R S E S L U P
WORLD
HE WAS ALREADY AN IT LIST VISIONARY WINNER WHEN HIS NAME WAS CALLED OUT AT THE TATE MODERN LAST SEPTEMBER TO COLLECT THE FASHIONISTA GONG, TOO! JONATHAN DE FRANCESCO, VISIONARY AND FASHIONISTA EXTRAORDINAIRE, TELLS US HOW HIS LIFE HAS CHANGED SINCE HIS DOUBLE WIN CREATIVE HEAD: How do you think you have evolved as a stylist and visionary between your Visionary 2013 and 2014 wins? JONATHAN DE FRANCESCO: So much has happened since last year’s It List wins. I’ve been working on loads of new projects and collaborating with a range of talented individuals, and I think from these new influences and perspectives my work has matured. All of my work is based on feeling rather than a particular direction; now I feel comfortable to trust my instincts and let things happen naturally. Thinking about it now, winning both awards sounds bizarre. So many long hours of demanding studio work, meetings, prepping and fashion weeks. It’s extremely satisfying and humbling for it to be acknowledged. Any artist simply wants recognition for their work above all else.
CH: Tell us about your award-winning 2014 Visionary collection. JDF: There were so many hours of
prep for this collection, my friends thought I had disappeared! The previous summer I had travelled to Japan with a close friend, Mikio Aizawa. He took me to a master geisha wig maker’s studio in the heart of Tokyo. After seeing the dedication and relentless drive to bring these masterpieces to life, it reassured me that all those hours in the studio crafting my wigs really were worth it.
CH: How has life changed? JDF: So much has changed. After nearly nine years based in a salon, I decided to go freelance full-time. I’m now represented by a creative agency in London and I’m based at Easton Regal on the days that I’m not shooting or travelling. I’d always wanted the freedom of being freelance so I feel content.
CH: What have been your highlights in the past 18 months? JDF: It’s been a bit of a blur, but the highlights include travelling to Japan for the Dior Pre-Fall 15 show with Guido; working
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#Visionaries
on my own Tom Ford Eyewear online campaign; working in London, Milan and Paris for Fashion Weeks assisting on shows such as Dior, Chanel, Prada, Versace and Maison Martin Margiela Couture. And in between all this I have been doing a lot of travelling to places such as Japan, Brazil and Mexico.
CH: You’re our It List Fashionista – who do you long to work with? JDF: The list is endless. The designer I would love to collaborate with the most is Raf Simons – that would be a dream! There are many outstanding photographers and stylists like Joe McKenna, Paolo Roversi and Alastair Mackie. Hopefully over time I will get the chance to work with these icons.
CH: You’re our It List Visionary as well – who do you consider the most exciting visual artists in the industry today? JDF: I always love looking at the work of other stylists, whether they are friends or idols. Names such as Guido, Shay Ashual, Nicolas Jurnjack, Eugene Souleiman. For inspiration I look
to photographers, designers, painters and so on as it’s a completely different view. Some of my favourites are Larry Clark, Mike Brodie, Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Francis Bacon, Yohji Yamamoto and Willy Vanderperre.
CH: What’s next for you? JDF: I have a lot of work to do! Fashion Weeks in all over and plenty of shoots. I’d taken some time out of this season for a holiday in Brazil for the carnival but I did go to Milan and Paris for Fashion Week. I’m hoping to continue this and learn as much as possible. Session work has given me the freedom to learn and develop into the stylist I am today.
CH: What makes a true visionary? JDF: A true visionary is someone who creates something new from a different perspective. Someone who strips it back to basics and simplifies.
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PLANET ORGANIK “AS HAIR IS AN ORGANIC MATERIAL, IS IT POSSIBLE THAT OTHER ORGANIC MATERIALS COULD BE MANIPULATED AND FORMED TO GIVE THE ILLUSION OF NATURAL HAIR? THIS WAS THE IDEA THAT BECAME THE COLLECTION ORGANIKA. THE CHALLENGE OF ‘CHEATING’ HAIR OUT OF THESE ALIEN FABRICS WAS REALLY APPEALING, AS IT THREW MY NATURAL APPROACH TO DEALING WITH HAIR AND MADE ME APPRECIATE HOW CO-OPERATIVE REAL HAIR IS.” JONATHAN DE FRANCESO, IT LIST VISIONARY 2014 PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL FRASER 83
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HAIR AND ART DIRECTION Jonathan De Francesco. STYLING Dee Moran. MAKE-UP Roseanna Velin
Angelo and Ram
MAIN STAGE SPEAKER
27 APRIL 2015
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THEART OF PERFORMANCE AS OFFICIAL HAIRDRESSER TO DRAMA MAGAZINE, ZULLO & HOLLAND’S ANGELO VALLILLO IS BUSY MAKING HIS MARK IN THE FASHION WORLD. HERE, ANGELO DISCUSSES WHY FASHION IS A PERFORMANCE WITH DRAMA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF AND VOGUE FAVOURITE, RAM SHERGILL
ANGELO VALLILLO: Drama drips with glamour – every image is gorgeously photographed. How did it all begin? RAM SHERGILL: I’ve always loved fashion photography. My first sojourn into the industry came while still at university in Wolverhampton. I wrote to milliner Philip Treacy to ask if I could to borrow his hats for a shoot, and reluctantly he allowed me to take them, but only one at a time. So I found an old church near his studio to shoot in and went back and forth for the hats. Afterwards, he invited me for tea where he introduced me to an incredibly eccentric-looking woman – fashion stylist Isabella Blow. Through her I was commissioned to photograph the work of her sister-in-law, Selina Blow, where I got to meet Alexander McQueen. I focused all my energies on fashion. It hasn’t been easy.
AV: That’s the same in any field you work in. It shouldn’t be easy. To work for something so hard and to get it, it’s the best feeling in the world. That’s especially true in hairdressing. RS: They are similar: fashion, hairdressing, photography. There is so much competition out there, so many people with the same dreams. You have to keep pushing yourself to the limit.
AV: Last year, we were in Spain shooting for Dior then a few months later working with Dougie Booth, then on location for Crisian London. It’s very diverse work. But how much free rein are you given when prepping? RS: My work is hugely varied – I could be shooting for Manolo Blahnik one week, Harper’s Bazaar the next, then off to do something for US Vogue. With editorial I’m often given lots of leeway to decide on the shoot and the story, less so for advertising campaigns. They are much more thought-out by the creative teams as it has to be about selling the product. It’s still exciting, though.
AV: Last year I did a campaign for Wella Professionals – the shoot where we met – and I was asked to create beautiful, consumer-facing hair. In those situations, smooth and elegant works well to showcase colour. Session is often more about creating wearable hair, whereas images taken to showcase hairdressing skills are more edgy. I guess beauty and fashion mean different things to different people. RS: Fashion is about creating a second skin for us to perform in. Everything we choose to wear communicates to those around us. Isabella Blow once told me dressing eccentrically was her protection. We can change our outer appearance with different colours, shapes and textures and create a different performance every time. It is such wonderful thing. And my joy is to capture it. With Drama, I am free to capture what I want and develop stories of my choosing. Luckily, I have wonderful friends in the industry who are excited to collaborate with me and create something different. AV: I love the work we do at Drama. You give me the creative freedom to develop my own ideas for the hair. What projects are coming up? RS: Drama is a work of love, I’ve self-financed it mostly since its launch in 2008. I’ve produced eight editions, and they are totally collectable. I’d like Drama to become a conduit for young and startling new talent to move into the fashion world. Your work has been on the cover of quite a few issues. AV: But it’s so difficult to break into the fashion world. You have to sacrifice so much. I have worked every weekend for the past 10 years, training, practising, performing. I love it, but it is relentless. Practically all I think about is hair. RS: If you love it, you don’t mind doing that. If it isn’t an obsessive passion, what’s the point?
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Bora Aksu S/S15
#Visionaries
Daisy Lowe for Fault
BODY AND THE HANDS BACKSTAGE AT BORA AKSU, THE FACE OF KMS CALIFORNIA, AND THE BRAINS BEHIND NEW SALON BRAND HARE & BONE, NOTHING CAN STOP SAM BURNETT – NOT EVEN SLEEP!
MAIN STAGE SPEAKER
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Pam Hogg
Bora Aksu A/W15
Hare & Bone
soul
A MAK
IT’S CLEAR Sam Burnett likes to be busy. On the day we meet, he rushes straight from the Thomas Tait show he’s leading for KMS California at London Fashion Week, and is still chatting and styling well over an hour after his new salon, Hare & Bone, is meant to have shut for the night. His diary is crammed – an appearance at The Coterie is imminent (alongside designer Bora Aksu, a regular collaborator of his), styling with his Hare & Bone team at Salon Smart and judging It List entries in June – and that’s just for Creative HEAD. Mention Sam’s name to pretty much anyone in the industry, and you’ll receive the same glowingly positive response about what an utter dream he is to work with. From training with hairdressing legend Denise McAdam and spending 14 years at high street-favourite Rush to working at LFW and opening Hare & Bone just before Christmas, Sam has packed plenty into his career so far. And it was an early start for the young Burnett: “My mum is a hairdresser, and while she was bringing up my brother and I on her own, she was doing six days a week in the salon and home hair every night,” he recalls. “So we would sit in the kitchen and pass rollers up to her as she worked.” This introduction to hairdressing sparked a lifelong passion, with Sam grabbing Saturday work in a local salon in Sutton, before training with Denise McAdam in Green Park, and from there he joined Rush, then a group consisting of only three salons. “I cherish the years I had at Rush. I grew up there –
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Save The Tigers Daisy Lowe for Fault
Rough Magaazine
Thomas Tait A/W15 Bora Aksu S/S15
environment for hairdressers who are passionate about what they do, with incredible technical ability for cut, colour and finish. It’s really important that everyone involved has the right kind of ethos and mentality. I want to push boundaries and be creative, but do it with taste and style.” And Sam’s vision doesn’t end there – he had a very specific set of criteria for the physical space that Hare & Bone would inhabit. “It had to be original, I didn’t want to occupy a previous salon space,” he says firmly. “And it had to be very functional as well as beautifully designed – if something doesn’t work, what’s the point in it?” And with all the possible product partners to choose from, Sam opted for KMS California, and has since become its first UK ambassador. “The choice within the range is vast – so you’ve always got the right product to work with,” he explains.
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Jessie J for Notion
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I was 20 when I started, so during that time I went from a boy to a man,” he admits. “I was young, but I was ambitious and worked hard, and that gave me the opportunity to grow alongside the brand.” During his time at Rush, Sam’s career accelerated – he won awards, became artistic director and ran his own Rush salon as a partner – but he finally made the choice to take a leap on his own. “I got to the point where I was doing a lot more session work, so I decided to go more down that road,” he explains. Work with iD, Fault, Vice and Institute magazines kept Sam busy, but there was something lacking. “After a year of working as a solo session stylist, I missed being part of a team,” he says. “So I made the choice to set up Hare & Bone.” Sam is nothing if not determined, as illustrated by his brand vision for Hare & Bone: “It was always about creating an
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Thomas Tait A/W15
Sam with Liliana Nova HAIR Sam Burnett at Hare & Bone. STYLING Soki Mak. MAKE-UP Sonia Bhogal
With Jaime Winstone
With Caroline Flack
#Visionaries
“The brand is innovative in the sense that it is always coming up with new technology, and it’s moving towards fashion, which I thought worked well with Hare & Bone.” Ah yes, fashion – when we meet, Sam has just completed a shoot for Vision China magazine, as well as heading up those LFW shows for Bora Aksu and Thomas Tait. “I would describe my work now as technically founded with a fashion finish. Even if I’m doing a cut and colour onstage, it’s always going to have a fashion influence. And Bora Aksu is amazing,” he continues. “He is so talented but a lovely, humble guy. He has a strong vision about what he wants but is really open to ideas and trusts me when I say: ‘No, I think we should go down this road for hair.’” Bora Aksu is just one of the talents Sam has worked with – his client list has included models Daisy Lowe and Alice Dellal and singer Jessie J. But who from his star-studded address book inspires him? “Someone who really motivates me and who has become a good friend is [musician] Charli XCX,” Sam reveals. “She’s a 22-year-old who’s cracked the US and is so talented. Whenever I feel like I’m working too hard or haven’t had a day off, I look at her schedule and realise I have nothing to complain about!” So what’s next? “I’d love to see Hare & Bone grow organically within London,” he muses. “I’d like us to open our own training academy as well. And I’d like to grow our connections within the fashion world. It would be great to work with photographer Tim Walker, I’m a massive fan of his work.” And with that, he’s finally finished for the day, the wide smile still firmly in place. Sam, it seems, really is the man.
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Tailored by No.5
THE MEDIUM IS THE MESSAGE
differently to how it ended up! We were trying to get back to celebrating British traditions and old-school culture, but we ended up documenting how the creatives we chose across Europe had been influenced by British culture in their countries.
CH: What kind of content did you look for? LC: Celebrations of British culture across Europe and the world. The content was sourced across a year by my partner and photographer, Winter Vandenbrink. We wanted to achieve that documentary style of fashion photographers.
CH: C.O.D. has no online presence. Why did you opt for print alone? LC: We think print publications still come out on top. To hold and feel a magazine seems far more valuable and timeless than scrolling through endless content – this
Images from C.O.D.
Lee Crichton
ONCE AN ASSISTANT TO PAUL MERRITT, LEE CRICHTON HAS EVOLVED AS A HAIRDRESSER TO EPITOMISE A NEW GENERATION OF CREATIVE THAT WORKS ACROSS MEDIA. WHILE HEADING UP HIS STUDIO IN DALSTON (TAILORED BY NO.5) LEE HAS ALSO BROUGHT TO LIFE A LONG HELD DREAM – HIS OWN MAGAZINE, COLLECTION OF DOCUMENTARIES. HE TELLS US WHY HE WANTS TO OPEN A STORE NO-ONE WILL VISIT…
CREATIVE HEAD: What was your vision with Collection of Documentaries (C.O.D.)? LEE CRICHTON: The vision started off quite
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#Visionaries
way we are forced to be more refined and concise and allow things to age. Nothing can be erased or removed and that’s the beauty of it. It becomes an archive in itself. Online-wise we have no presence and no intention of having one.
CH: How do you juggle both sides of your life, and how do they inform each other? LC: With great difficulty! I juggle them by making time for them... we all have time to go to the pub, so we all have time for our passions, too! Over the years, I’m lucky to have built up a broad client base of like-minded creative people, each with their own opinions, ideas and industry experience that will always bleed into my own creative process when I moonlight as a magazine editor. CH: What should we expect to see in your second issue – and what have you taken from the experience that will influence any future issues? LC: I’m not sure what to expect myself!
What I have learnt is to build a strong team around you and use their skills to their full potential, while maintaining a fluid vision throughout. The first is always a learning curve, so issue two should run a lot smoother, but we’re learning as we go.
CH: Who do you consider to be a visionary? LC: All of my ventures have highlighted young creatives and their impact on the ever-evolving industry. For the magazine, we have sourced and worked with so many inspiring and youthful artists – in vision and not just age – and I think youth culture is a really good place to start. CH: A few years ago you helped start an agency called New Breed – what were you looking to do? LC: New Breed was my idea to support up-and-coming talent in the creative world. I was bored of going to shoots and
seeing sloppy work by ‘bigger’ names. I wanted to give fresher and more naturally gifted people a chance. We were trying to get away from ‘who you know’ to ‘how good you are’. Unfortunately this was too tall a task to achieve as a one-man band and I had to call time on it. Needless to say, my time with New Breed certainly formed a grounding of knowledge of creative talent and a level of artistry ideally suited for the magazine.
CH: What do you have planned for the future?
LC: I’m expanding my Tailored by No.5 studio, hopefully opening in Berlin and New York. I think people in these cities will love my no-nonsense, no washing hair policy. Issue two of C.O.D. and hopefully after three more issues we can open a C.O.D. concept store. I want to open it in my homeland of the highlands of Scotland, so that nobody will go – like the Prada store in the desert in Texas!
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om “This image was fr rapher working with photog the Trevor Leighton on Cotton celebrity Fairtrade 10. portraits back in 20 It has to be one of st the images that be ” captures my career
E R U T PIC OK BO
2014 WINNER, T N E L TA E IV T A CRE MOST WANTED E OF D&J AMBROSE, CHOOSES S O DARREN AMBR CAPTURE HIS CAREER SO FAR AT THE IMAGES TH
“We were lucky enough to so urce 10 gorgeous Alexander McQueen gowns that we’ve boxed and used fo r shows and seminars (as seen pictu red on stage). I recently used them in a presentation to explain the importance of investing in fashion, stylin g, print and design for collections” 94
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“The desperate housewife (left) is one of my favourites. The hair was all done on set in the moment, and I created it with the make-up artist, so it was spontaneous. I wanted to capture a woman in that moment of being powerful, unique with a retro edge”
“This team collect ion image captures the essenc e of a cult following. The conc ept was the Amish culture with a nod to vinatge Calvin Klein. Photographer Jenny Hands really captured the vibe the team was aiming for, so the overall look fe lt right”
“This is from my newest shoot, Collection LX. The model was fantastic to work with. I was inspired by the purity and simplicity of the colour but also how couture the final image looked”
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#Visionaries ROBERT POWLS, CREATOR OF CLOUD NINE AND GHD How did you start ghd? It was my own money – the brand was founded in my kitchen! Once the design had been perfected, we created an initial 500 irons. Our big break came from chatting to a client at John Frieda’s salon – she was the beauty editor at the London Evening Standard. I used the iron on her hair and she cried, stating this was the first time her hair had been the way she’d wanted it – she gave us a half-page in the paper and in three days we had 1,500 calls and never looked back. What was your priority when launching Cloud Nine? To build the best professional hairdressing tools money can buy. The aim was to create a premium brand that is always developing new technology
delivering incredible results. The hairdresser remains at the centre of Cloud Nine; we create products that deliver on a professional level as well as for the consumer. We place great importance on the relationship we have with salons and supporting our partner stockists is part of every decision we make. Innovation is at the heart of everything we do. What has been the most important decision of your life so far? Selling ghd. Founding the brand was a milestone in my career but embarking on a new journey with Cloud Nine has given me the freedom to develop new innovations and technology like The O, which was the first induction-heated hair tool.
THE FATHERS OF INVENTION SOMETIMES AN INNOVATOR CAN CHANGE THE WAY YOU WORK IN THE SALON. WE MEET TWO OF THEM...
SHAUN PULFREY, CREATOR OF TANGLE TEEZER If you had done something else, what would it have been? My father always wanted me to be a fisherman (I come from Grimsby), but I would have loved to be an architect. Failing that, a flight attendant! Why did you call your company Tangle Teezer? I honestly can’t see it as being named anything else. It was the first name that came into my head and it has served the brand well. It’s a name that starts conversations. How did you raise the money to start your business? Three years of research and development were paid monthly by me. Launching the product to market, I re-mortgaged my two-bedroom flat in
Brixton at £98,000. This enabled me to go from being a sole trader to a limited company. During this time I lived like a hermit. I never went out or bought anything. Tangle Teezer was replacing all of this and it was a very exciting time. What has been the most important decision of your life so far? The decision to stop hairdressing completely and give Tangle Teezer my full attention. Before that, I was working full time as a colourist (which paid for the R&D) and doing Tangle Teezer on my one day off a week and weekends. How do you handle stress? Very well. Once in a while I’ll go quiet for a couple days and have a bit of a sleepathon – 24 hours with no toilet breaks! I wake up brighter and breezier.
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Quote CREATIVE HEAD APRIL to receive ÂŁ25 off your membership before 30th April 2015 *terms and conditions apply
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In the
fold Bold colour takes its turn with movement and fresh styling to illustrate Origami, from Paul Mitchell PHOTOGRAPHY BY EREZ SABAG
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HAIR Mary Cuomo, Linda Yodice, Lucie Doughty and Stephanie Kocielski for Paul Mitchell. MAKE-UP Iris Moreau. WARDROBE Martina Nilsson GET THE INSIDE TRACK for your business with Paul Mitchell in our 2015 Powerbook
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ARTIST’S IMPRESSION DISCOVER HOW PAUL MITCHELL BROUGHT THE ORIGAMI COLLECTION TO LIFE USING THE DIVERSE PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR PORTFOLIO
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
PAUL MITCHELL REVELS in all things colour – its beauty, its sheer transformative effect and the artist that created it. It was this that gave Angus Mitchell, co-owner and artistic director of education for Paul Mitchell, the inspiration for a collection that could emulate the beauty an origami artist finds in a single sheet of paper. Created by the superstars that make up the Paul Mitchell Artistic Team, the collection demonstrates new cuts, colours and styles to inspire a style shift for clients in the salon.
“Origami is about working cleanly and precisely: crisp folds placed just right,” explains Angus. “The same goes for colouring hair – but it’s not just about sharp lines. If you’ve mastered your craft, even when you use a more organic technique, there is a precision of intention. Origami teaches us this: if you practice your craft with excellence, it rises to the level of art.” The driving force behind the Origami collection comes from the diverse Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color portfolio, which includes:
THE COLOURS BEHIND THE COLLECTION XG Paul Mitchell shines XG and the color XG feature molecular technology to enable lower levels of ammonia to open the hair cuticle, as well as a dyesmart system that allows for greater colour longevity.
INKWORKS
The pops of bright colour in the Origami collection were created using Inkworks demi-permanent hair colour. Available in five intermixable vibrant shades – red, blue, yellow, purple and hot pink, as well as white for creating pastel hues – Inkworks sits primarily on the outside of the hair shaft.
BLONDES
Paul Mitchell has three options to create blondes. Dual-Purpose Lightener is a dust-free powder that lifts up to seven levels, SyncroLift ultra-quick blue powder lightener mixes to a creamy consistency and is ideal for colour correction, while Lighten Up blonding paste gently lifts up to five levels and is perfect for finer strands.
To discover what professional-only brand Paul Mitchell can do for your business, call 0845 659 0011 or visit paul-mitchell.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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Breathless Intricate styling from The It List It Guy 2014, Richard Phillipart, is fused with to-die-for tailoring for a sumptuous finish PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW STANSFIELD
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HAIR Richard Phillipart, The Boutique Salon and Spa. STYLING Natalie Armin. MAKE-UP Cassie Steward WANT TO SEE MORE incredible fashion shoots? Find the iPad edition of Creative HEAD April at creativeheadmag.com/ipad
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SONG TO THE SIREN
INSPIRED BY A LIFELONG OBSESSION WITH THE INTRICACIES OF ROPE, THE COMPLEX TEXTURES AND TECHNIQUES IN ATARGATIS, BY KIM RANCE, SPEAK OF MERMAIDS AND ANCIENT DEITIES PHOTOGRAPHY BY TAKAHITO SASAKI
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HAIR Kim Rance for Brooks+Brooks. STYLING Nicole Freeman. MAKE-UP Laura Hunt
LAST WORD
WE’VE GOT YOUR BACK PUT YOUR TRUST IN YOUNG TALENT, SAYS STELL ANDREW OF RUSH HAIR, AND THEY’LL HELP YOUR BUSINESS BLOOM
THE IMPORTANCE OF giving youngsters an opportunity should never be underestimated. The fact is our industry is nothing without them, and what we do with them today impacts the state of hairdressing forever more. You quickly forget what it takes to break into this industry, and it can be a tough one to crack. This is the reason why, as salon owners and managers, it is our duty to pass on the skills and advice that got us to where we are. By sharing lessons and guiding others, we are safeguarding the quality and standard of British hairdressing. There are creative and training opportunities out there for your younger staff, some of them are good, some of them not so. You will need to decide for yourself what’s worthwhile. Yes, there is a cost to the business and yes, it requires a significant amount of time out of the salon, but what the individuals gain in return makes it a worthwhile future investment. Take Tina Farey as an example. She has been working with us for almost 20 years and has had many opportunities to expand her creative horizons. She has been part of various groups and teams that have given her invaluable experiences. Today, Tina is a significant part of our artistic team, heads up the session team and has won numerous awards on her own and as part of a group. Tina has definitely been a good investment for us. We believe in our youth so much so that we are putting our money where our mouth is and running a competition – worth £250,000 – to find the next Rush franchisee. We know the creative future of Rush is in safe hands and now we need to back the future stars financially because this motivates our guys and keeps them within the Rush family, where they know we’ve got their backs. It is exciting to see young team members grow and fulfil their dreams, and that inspirational process can work both ways. It is essential as an industry to invest in the future of hairdressing, and this starts by investing in the youth of today. Stell Andrew is international creative director of Rush Hair
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