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head c r e a t i v e
C r e at i v e H e a d I r e la n d July/August 2013
Break free creativeheadmag.com
Discover colour without limits!
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NO FOILS NO BLEEDING NO LIMITS 8_pp_Wella 1
IMAGINE A WORLD WITH NO COLOUR LIMITS, WHERE YOUR CREATIVITY CAN RUN FREE. COLOR.ID FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS WELCOMES YOU TO A BRIGHT NEW WORLD OF COLOUR
A colour service that doesn’t require foils or separators? A service that allows you to place colour next to colour without bleeding* that can be completed in a standard appointment time? Is it possible? It is now. Since aluminum foil started being used in the ‘70s and ‘80s, the search has been on to ﬁnd something that didn’t create a visual barrier. Colourists need the application process to be more pleasurable and less time-consuming for the client. Now you can shake off the shackles of foils once and for all, with Color.id by Wella Professionals. This breakthrough, salon-exclusive service is Wella Professionals’ most intuitive colouring approach yet. Containing new InvisiDivider technology, Color.id creates a matrix within the colour mass, acting like a ﬂexible barrier to separate and hold different hues – allowing you to place shades next to each other without bleeding* and without the need for foils or separators. Colourists can create soft, blended results, always seeing what they’re creating throughout the process. For fabulous results, use Color.id with Koleston Perfect or ILLUMINA COLOR with Welloxon Perfect.
WORKING ON COLOR.ID WAS AMAZING, IT BROUGHT TOGETHER HAIRDRESSERS, ARTISTS, DESIGNERS, SCIENTISTS AND TRENDSETTERS. WHAT WE ACCOMPLISHED IS OUTSTANDING; REVOLUTIONISING THE WAY COLOUR IS APPLIED IN SALONS AND DEFINING THE HOTTEST LOOKS THAT ARE TAKING RUNWAYS AND HIGH STREETS BY STORM JOSH WOOD, GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR – COLOUR, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
*Shades of up to three levels of depth apart. Not recommended for extreme tonal differences such as vibrant reds and blondes.
Hair by Wella Professionals UK & Ireland Colour Club
Hair by Wella Professionals UK & Ireland Colour Club
BACK INTO YOUR
BUSINESS INTRODUCE COLOR.ID TO YOUR MENU AND WATCH YOUR BUSINESS GROW
Did you know that creative colour services, a key loyalty driver for salons, only represent 11 per cent of colour services?* It’s true – colourists had too little time to do such complicated, creative services, but not anymore. An incredible 98 per cent of clients would ask for Color.id again and 95 per cent of clients would recommend Color.id to their friends.** With the addition of just one new colour service you’ve strengthened client loyalty, boosted your salon’s image and attracted new clients. But the beneﬁts don’t stop there – with Color.id you can also increase staff performance, turnover and productivity in one fell swoop. This premium-priced creative service requires no extra time to achieve, leaving clients delighted with their new, bespoke colour and colourists satisﬁed that they’ve created something truly unique during a standard appointment time. *Based on Global Salon Services Study 2011/12 (Germany, UK, France, US, Russia, Brazil, Japan). **Based on a consumer survey carried out in salons in Germany and the US with 63 respondents in 2012
PARADE MAKE YOUR CLIENTS STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD WITH COLOR.ID
MULBERRY MOODS The irresistible mulberry colour palette of model Ariana’s crop, with contrasting dark and smoky depths, perfectly deﬁnes the texture in her pixie cut. THE COLOUR: Ariana’s cool features and dark natural depth were brought to life with blended deep berry tones, bringing out the layers of her cut and enhancing her skin tone. THE CUT AND STYLE: The short cut was texturised to give the head-hugging shape a soft, natural movement. A round brush was used to add volume.
Hair by Wella Professionals UK & Ireland Colour Club
Color.id lets your creativity run free as it allows you to create bespoke soft-blended results without foils. Something the Wella Professionals Global Creative Team and UK & Ireland Colour Club found out…
PURE GLAMOUR The glamorous shape of model Eva’s style has a ﬂuidity of movement that is enhanced with the play of light and shadow in the hues. THE COLOUR: Hidden blends of natural shadows transform into pure light blonde to create beautifully blended effects. THE CUT AND STYLE: Diagonal layers within a classic outline work in harmony with the movement to create this shape.
FLICKERING FLAME Model Hanna’s long, ﬁltered hairshape with minimal layering at the front ﬂows from natural roots into contrasting warm and light tones at the ends. THE COLOUR: Deep natural tones are fused horizontally with warm and light ﬂashes through the ends. THE CUT AND STYLE: Long and sleek with minimal layers at the front.
with intuition Set colour free and be among the first colourists trained on Color.id now. Contact your Wella Professionals account manager or email firstname.lastname@example.org with â€˜Color.idâ€™ in the subject line for details on your nearest training session
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Free your mind – discover a whole new world of colour with Color.id from Wella Professionals
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ENTRUST YOUR BEAUTY TO PROFESSIONALS
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X marks the spot
Blowing hot& cold Win a ghd jewel air or styling set
Playing fields From Glastonbury to Bestival, catch our round-up of festival chic!
See the Project X shoot with Rush Hair’s Sam Burnett
What you’ll see this
Summer… Rex Features
THE CREATIVE HEAD APP IS free and READY TO DOWNLOAD – VISIT THE APPLE APP STORE AND SEARCH ‘CREATIVE HEAD’ OR VISIT CREATIVEHEADAPP.NET NOW!
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From A to Zandra The iconic, colourful fashion designer is celebrated in her own exhibition
Innovative new creative platforms for salons to present collections are welcome. We love to show our clients high definition imagery in salon and the Creative HEAD App is what we’ve been waiting for – download it now! Jason Hall, Jason Hall Hairdressing
CREATIVE HEAD Ireland
34 I’m sure in the past you’ve heard from your dad/brother/boyfriend/friend that they wouldn’t be caught dead going into a salon to get their hair cut, that going to a salon is a bit ‘girly’, that they’d never hear the end of it from the lads. For an industry that is heavily staffed by males, up until now male grooming has been a bit of a taboo subject for Irish men, but thankfully that old-fashioned attitude is on the way out and the male beauty market is the fastest growing in the industry. Irish men have finally sat up, taken notice and are now investing in their appearances, which means one thing – an untapped market just waiting to be converted into clients on your books! On page 30 we talk to the salons that have cornered the elusive male market already and have taken the idea of the traditional barber, infused it with elements of the classic salon experience and brought the short back and sides up-to-date. Turn to page 41 to see a gorgeous male shoot from that has taken the traditional and turned it on its head. When you mention the name John Vial, many things spring to mind – creative director at Fudge, renowned session stylist, Sassoon protégé – and on page 36 we talk to John about his Irish roots, his early influences and the unlikely and largely unknown place he started his career. But it’s not all about the boys! We also talk staff appraisals and the importance of implementing proper HR structures into your business on page 18, give you the lowdown on all the fabulous events and parties that have been happening in the past few weeks from page 23 and, if you’re looking for a feel-good story, turn to page 13 to hear about a group of very special trainees that any salon would be happy to have under its wing. Enjoy!
Aoibhinn McBride Aoibhinn@headmag.ie
Follow @CreativeHEADIrl on Twitter Find us on Facebook, search ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ Creative Head Ireland 09
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PUBLISHING 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London N1 6ND
13 _ the source
Sean Taaffe Academy lends a hand, Sam McKnight celebrates and TrendVision announces show details
Graeme White Chief sub editor
Adam Wood Special projects manager
Joanna Andersen Advertising managers
Aoibhinn Mcbride ben baldock
23 _ Scene
Dylan Bradshaw throws a party, Alan Keville unveils a collection and Brown Sugar picks a charity
50 _ the last word
Five-star customer service is the only way your business can excel, explains Paul Griffin
22 _ Subscribe now...
...and you’ll receive a free gift from Wella Professionals, worth E39.75
Editor in chief Publisher
Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetablebased inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
WRITE TO US AT: CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND 6-9 Trinity STreet DUBLIN 2 T: 01 617 7947 Email: email@example.com Go online to www.creativeheadmag.com, find ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ on Facebook or follow us on Twitter: @CreativeHEADIrl Download the Creative HEAD App here: Creative HEAD Ireland is published 10 times a year by ALFOL Ltd. Creative HEAD Ireland is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
30 _ Groomed for success
Irish men are becoming fashion-savvy, style-concious and are prepared to spend money on the way they look – welcome to the future of male grooming
36 _ John Vial
We take a trip down memory lane with Fudge creative director John Vial, as he reveals the importance of his Irish roots and the surprising place where his career began fashion
42 _ THe perfect Gent
Masculine Elegance from Kaliope Thomas reveals a relaxed and modern take on classic barbering
46 _ In high definition
Davey Davey presents an exploration of futuristic fabrics and when textures and colours collide
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c r e a t i v e
ON the COVER Color.id from Wella Professionals
Break free diSCover CoLour wiTHouT LimiTS!
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AN INNOVATIVE HAIR CARE LINE SOLD EXCLUSIVELY IN SALONS 028|| www.moroccanoil.co.uk firstname.lastname@example.org 061 212 028
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09/05/2013 14:26:10 3/21/12 10:10 AM
Manage your hair salon with the NEW Casio EPoS Solution Android is a technology we are all used to when it comes to smartphones, the platform controls roughly half of the UK market. But what if we take this reliance on smart technology to organise our business, as well as our personal lives?
Enter the Casio VR-100 business support terminal â€“ a device that manages your reservations, stock data, bank card payments, customer loyalty schemes, all at the point of sale. The range of applications through the Android platform make the VR-100 a great tool to help grow your business. For more information
T +44 (0)20 8208 9510 E BSD@casio.co.uk
The butcher barber fuses the old with the new
news, products and business know-how It all starts here…
Sean Taaffe Academy hosts a course with a difference and conditioning hair, blow-drying techniques, ghd curls, up-styling and what it’s really like to work in a salon. The students also completed an evening module on how to apply make-up and give basic manicures with Sean Taaffe’s resident make-up artist. Speaking about their decision to run the course, course director Aisling Madigan, said: “The Down Syndrome group is always looking for something different and when JAN
the Sean Taaffe Academy took the initiative to run this course for them, it highlighted to other employers that anything is possible. Ultimately, it’s their ability, not their disability that really counts.” She added: “All the girls were amazing and really surprised me with what they could do if given the chance. As far we know, nothing like this has ever been done in Kerry and maybe even Ireland, so it was a pleasure to be part of it.”
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girls from the Down Syndrome Ireland Kerry branch have just completed an introduction to hairdressing course sponsored by the Sean Taaffe Academy and hosted by Aisling Madigan in Killarney. Entitled, ‘6 Week Hair Madness’, the course ran every Tuesday from 16 April to 28 May and was completely free of charge for those who attended. The students, who all have Downs Syndrome, learned about shampooing
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Miloi Sluis, Rankin and Sam McKnight
the latest news from the industry
McKnight celebrates ghd appointment with rankin World-renowned session stylist Sam McKnight has teamed up with acclaimed fashion photographer Rankin to create a campaign that marks his appointment as global creative director for ghd and the official launch of the ghd eclipse. The stylist said: “It’s great to be working with ghd as the new global creative director. I don’t think there could have been a better way to begin our relationship than with the new campaign for ghd eclipse.” Sam was behind the hair looks of the
TrendVision host and show teams revealed The ever-stylish broadcaster and fashion journalist Darren Kennedy (pictured above) has been revealed as the host for the Wella TrendVision Regional Finals 2013, which take place on 2 September in Dublin. Teams from Sassoon Academy and Wella Professionals will talk trends and techniques on the night, before the winners are announced. Those lucky enough to win will go on to compete in London at the UK and Ireland final on 7 October. Tickets for the event are priced from E45 and can be booked by speaking to your Wella account manager, or calling the events team on 01 416 0900.
campaign, using the ghd eclipse styler to show an evolution of texture through five images of Dutch-born model Miloi Sluis, along with a short film. The key message of the campaign – greatness comes to those who create – was captured by Rankin in a pared-back style, allowing Sam’s hair looks to be the focus. The photographer said: “It was great to work with Sam. He’s the best at what he does and we were on the same page when it came to the result: showing the personality behind the hair.”
If you only do one thing this month... Visit How to retail, with Christian Hefti on 15 July. A one-day, intensive and interactive retailing masterclass, hairdresser Christian (pictured) uses his own experiences on the salon floor to inspire, motivate and ultimately get results – without a PowerPoint presentation in sight! Your staff will never struiggle with understanding the importance of retail again! Tickets for this one-day event, held at Essential Salon Supplies, Dublin are priced at E140 and can be purchased by calling Essential Salon Supplies on 061 212 028.
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My month ahead
All-stars competition Gets A Face Lift
What does July/August have in store for...
The All-Stars competition from American Crew has undergone a makeover for this year’s applicants, and the format and entry process now mirrors Revlon Professional’s other global hairdressing competition, Style Masters. And just like the Style Masters, American Crew All-Star applicants will now submit an online photographic entry of three looks on one model to a panel of judges, before an Irish finalist is selected to go forward to try and secure one of 15 places in the global final, which will take place during Style Masters in April 2014. Speaking about the decision to revise the competition format, American Crew Irish sales manager David Downes, said: “This year’s format makes it easier for stylists from the same salon to enter both competitions. Their photoshoot can take place on the same day so the cost for the salon is reduced as both applicants can take advantage of the same photographer. Plus, we’ve also really listened to what our American Crew stylists want. They want to compete on a national level, compete against the world and develop their talent.” Irish applicants are invited to submit entries from 1 August, details can be found at Americancrew.com
Tara Smartt Hession Hairdressing, Dublin I’m travelling to Manchester with L’Oréal Professionnel as part of the ID ARTISTS for the Autumn/Winter Catwalk Showcase. It’s an honour to be chosen and a brilliant opportunity to flex my creative muscles outside of the salon. We also recently opened up a BUFF Makeup Suite in our Clontarf salon, so it’s all go!
Valerie Finnegan Cahill Ikon Hair, Cork I’m travelling to Dublin for a Meet The Master threeday course with the founder of Mahogany Hairdressing, Russell Thompson. Then when I get back, we’ll be starting work on our entry for the Alfaparf Fantastic Hairdresser Awards, which will be taking place in Cork in the autumn.
Christian Shannon Brown Sugar, Dublin As creative director for the salon group, I’m organising a shoot for our new youth salon Sugar Cubed. We’re working with photograher Conor Clinch and we’ll be shooting on location. Connor’s only 17 but is already the hottest new fashion photographer in town so I’m excited to see what we’ll come up with.
Scientists claim grey hair ‘cure’ A research team at Bradford University in the UK claims to have uncovered the cure for grey hair. The scientists found people who are going grey develop ‘massive oxide stress’ – an accumulation of hydrogen peroxide in the hair follicle – which causes hair to bleach itself from the inside out. And, according to the
FASEB biology journal, the team, who made the discovery after studying a group of 2,411 people, also discovered that this accumulation of hydrogen peroxide could be remedied with a topical treatment applied to the scalp called PC-KUS (a modified pseudocatalase), which can also be used to treat the skin disorder vitiligo. JAN
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New products, tools and colours
Fit & you know it Getting to the root of the issue, the Alfaparf Uomo Energetic range targets the scalp and is ideal for clients who want to gently cleanse and remove buildup while also reinforcing the hair fibre. But the real star of the show is the Uomo Energetic Silver Shampoo, which removes dull, brassy and yellow tones from grey hair – perfect for all those style-conscious silver foxes out there! RRP From e8.95 Call 045 856 490 www.alfaparf.com
It’s not just the ladies who want hold, volume and texture! Give your male clients something to shout about with these styling superstars
Clients who are struggling with thinning hair will love the Eufora Hero for Men Thickening Elixir. Hair is instantly thicker without feeling sticky and it improves the scalp. RRP e21.50 Call 087 648 4534
For extra firm hold that isn’t dry or flaky, look no further than Joico’s Style Reform Matte Clay – it’s especially effective on hard to control hair. RRP e16.95 Call 045 856 490
As part of it Styling Range, Schwarzkopf Professional’s 3D MENsion Strong Hold Hair Spray gives lift from the root and maximum hold with a natural-looking finish. RRP e9.45 Call 01 404 6424 www.schwarzkopf-professional.ie
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Pump up the volume
Celebrating 12 years of transforming the way women style their hair, the limited edition collection from ghd is a gem! The jewel collection, which features straighteners, hair dryers and paddle brushes, has taken its inspiration from the S/S13 catwalks and features a rich metallic finish in amethyst, sapphire or emerald.
Hair loss and thinning hair isn’t just affecting your male clients; it’s also one of the biggest issues for female clients too. Containing caffeine and takanal, the Keune Derma Activating Lotion helps stimulate hair growth and crucially, increase the number of hairs in the growth phase.
RRP e120 Call 0044 1924 423400
RRP e18.31 Call 061 212 028
Pick me up
scissoR hands Stand out with the Jaguar IV body collection that offers a range of patterned scissors for an individual style of cutting. There’s protection for those with a nickel allergy and an offset designed handle creates a relaxed working experience, while the honing of both edges for outstanding cutting action.
Perfect for in between washes, the new Davines Hair Refresher is a dry cleansing mist that contains sinodor molecules to trap and neutralise unpleasant odours, and rice starch to absorb excess oiliness without drying out the scalp.
In Living Colour Keeping vibrant hair colour looking more luminous for longer, the Aveda Color Conserve range uses plant based ingredients including Babassu Betaine, green tea and cinnamon bark oils and features the brand’s first ever 100 per cent certified organic fragrance.
RRP From e115 Call 0044 1207 591 099
RRP e20.50 Call 0044 870 034 2380
RRP e22 Call 0044 20 3301 5449
Harnessing the hair’s natural ability to repair itself, the Matrix Biolage Advanced Keratindose collection gives chemically treated coarse hair types an instant moisture injection, leaving it 90 per cent smoother and wonderfully nourished.
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Price From e11.05 Call 1800 509472 www.matrixhaircare.co.uk
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business advice and stylish interiors
Are you Business being served? Pro
It’s not just clients you have to look after – to have a successful business, you need to keep your staff just as satisfied with your service
Wayne Lloyd owner of Wayne Lloyd, Ballydehob and Bandon, Co. Cork I was ready to go into business when... I got sick of working for bad bosses. I cope with pressure by... Exercise helps but I also have a really understanding partner who keeps me grounded. The biggest risk I’ve ever taken… was moving from London to Ballydehob in West Cork to open our first salon in 2007. I knew I had made it when… I bought a Dyson! Seriously though, I really hope I haven’t got there yet and that there is more to come. If you could go back 10 years... I wouldn’t want to go back, my life is way better now, but I do miss that ’90s house music! The best advice I have been given… KISS – Keep It Simple, Stupid! The biggest challenge in business today... is keeping your head above water and the salon doors open!
What’s the most effective long-term investment that will give your salon the edge over competitors and ultimately make it more profitable – a prime location? State-of-the-art interiors? A column bursting with clients? These will all help, but the only real way to increase business in the long-term is to focus on your staff so they can then look after your clients. And the best way to do this? By adopting a structured appraisal system where both employer and employee can measure exactly how they feel about each other’s performance. Eyleen de Brun is an occupational psychologist and director of the HRP Group in Dublin, which specialises in implementing HR policy into businesses. “Not all personalities mesh well and you’re not going to love everyone who works for you but by adopting and implementing proper HR structures, you’ll be able to take your feelings and your opinion out of the equation,” she says. “Appraisals aren’t personal but they are designed to get the best out of a person and
to give recognition for things that are being done well.” Paul Griffin, owner of Zenith Hairdressing in Galway, uses the PHAB standard in his salon, and has seen the benefits first hand. “Appraisals give managers and staff the opportunity to identify what they are excelling in and what they need to improve. And, they also set the staff up to succeed and help plan their career route.” Eddie Mulligan, owner of the Hype Hair group is also a firm believer in the benefits appraisals can bring to a business. “There are so many different aspects to the industry and your staff will reflect this. Some might be more interested in education, others in management, so appraisals give you the opportunity to identify where they see their career going. Having proper structures in place means we can consolidate all this information and use it to our and their advantage.” As Paul Griffin adds: “I always ask my staff “What can I do to make you more happy?” Sometimes, it’s the little things that get to people so if you don’t give them the opportunity to be heard, you’ll end up losing talent and customers.”
Getting staff in order l If you don’t know where to start, but can’t afford to employ a HR specialist to help formulate or
conduct your staff appraisals, check out the host of online tools that are available to use for free, such as The National Employment Rights Authority (NERA), which provides information to employees about correct procedures, holiday entitlements, working hours and dismissals. l It’s important to put proper appraisal structures in place – conduct at least two appraisals per employee a year and give your staff adequate time to prepare by notifying them in advance.
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The Butcher Barber Johnson’s Court, Dublin 2
Tucked in the former stables of Powerscourt Townhouse, The Butcher Barber fuses the traditions of old world barbering with a contemporary and cool twist. Owner Emmett Byrne gives the lowdown
of ceramic and natural wood surfaces. We stripped everything back to reveal the original floor-to-ceiling window at the front. The window, coupled with the mirrors and the walls gives the place a spacious, airy feel. Colour palette: Black, white and stained wood interiors with a nod to the historical barbershop red and white in the form of an exterior butcher shop style awning. Investment pieces: My favourite piece is the neon light I had commissioned especially for the salon. Favourite area: The window. When we started stripping back the panelling that had been covering half the window, we realised many of the original Victorian panes were still in place.
Photography by Emil Damyanov
Space: 160 sq ft. Team: 4 plus myself. Styling: Four stations. Backwash: One station. Location: We’re right in the heart of the city centre but slightly tucked away as well which suits our objective of providing a fun, relaxed and comfortable atmosphere for clients. Inspirations: I really wanted to make a bold departure from the traditional old world babershop feel – the idea was to create somewhere which gives men a more saloninspired experience while still retaining the informality and banter of a barbershop. We’ve gone with quite a sparse, almost clinical feel, heavily inspired by the interiors of vintage butcher shops using a mixture
hot buys Stylish pieces for your salon Boxed off Sleek, streamlined and practical, Kiela’s U-Box is a modern take on the traditional chair and is available in a range of colours.
Seeing red Bringing barbering bang up to date, the retro inspired Aviator styling chair by REM is a real showstopper.
Fashion meets function If comfort is key, the Leonardo styling chair which also features Italian leather and stylish chrome finishes won’t disappoint.
Price e700 Contact 045 856 490
Price e1,350 Contact 043 3349 591
Price e1,847.30 Contact 061 212 028
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greatness comes to those who create Contact your ghd account manager to experience the ghd eclipse速 professional styler. For more information call +44 (0)1924 423400 or visit ghdhair.com/stare
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and you shall receiveâ€Ś
Wella Professionals Colour Recharge Cool Blonde collection, worth *
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Charlotte and Dylan Bradshaw
Parties, people, places, faces
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Pamela Flood Becky McEvoy
If you’ve ever been to Dylan Bradshaw’s 3,000 sq ft South William Street salon, you’ll probably have noticed that the vast space, complete with neon lighting and lacquered black surfaces, would also be a great place for a party. So it was only natural that Dylan, wife Charlotte and their team decided to transform this stunning Dublin salon into a one-stop style and beauty party destination for their summer Atelier event. Designed to thank to their customers, the event was all about giving back. Guests were treated to style workshops, one-on-one consultations, manicures from db Nail Bar technicians and an informative class on fitness and nutrition from celebrity trainer Paul Byrne of BodyByrne Fitness. And it was all washed down with champagne and canapés, of course! Dylan said: “I am delighted with the evening, we have all had a great night and everybody loved it. We wanted to give our customers an amazing event and everyone has made it happen. It’s a great start to the summer.”
Audrey McKenna, Lauren Fitzpatrick and Susan Jane Corbett
Margaret and Triona McCarthy
Cheryl O’Rourke and Marlon Jimenez Charlotte and Dylan Bradshaw
Fiona Foy Holland
Aoife Bradley and Karina Carlyle
Robbie Linden, Danielle Dignam, Amy Ivory and Lisa Martin
Mark O’Reilly and Paul Byrne
Naomi Quinn and Edward Smith
Peter Devlin and Lorraine Keane
Stephen Kelly and Emma Coppola
Robbie Dobbyn and Saoirse O’Brien
It’s rare to see a salon open its doors on a Sunday morning, but sometimes they make an exception and in Brown Sugar’s case, it was for a very worthy cause. Following on from the huge success of last year, where they managed to raise E20,000 in aid of St Francis Hospice in Raheny, this year the staff from both the South William Street and Blackrock salons welcomed customers for the salon group’s second ‘Close to our Heart’ charity event in aid of The Mater Foundation and Downs Syndrome Ireland. Tending to the tresses of their loyal customers for the day, the staff all worked free of charge and managed to raise E16,500 from appointments alone. Speaking about the event, managing director Mark O’Keeffe said: “We were so overwhelmed with the generosity shown and all the brands were happy to show support.” Both charities selected for this year’s event are very close to Brown Sugar’s heart and the staff hope that the money raised will help with the purchase of new equipment at The Mater.
The Alan Keville Artistic Team at work
Anything that takes inspiration from Tom Ford, Victoria Beckham and ancient Egyptian architecture is bound to be sexy, edgy and glamorous, so it was no surprise that Alan Keville’s latest collection showcase lived up to our expectations. Named Obelisk and featuring six distinctive cutting and colouring techniques, Alan and his Artistic Team – Alex Reid, Nicky Murphy and Simon Carron – took to the stage at the Aisling Hotel in Dublin to showcase the collection to more than 100 attendees. Featuring six models, the show was broken down into two segments and Alan and the team gave a step-by-step wet-to-dry demonstration, as they explained the inspiration behind each of the looks as well as the techniques they used to achieve it. Alan revealed: “We had an amazing day and were surprised at how good the turnout was. But, it’s through events like this that you see the enthusiasm Ireland has for education that inspires and drives our team to create strong yet salon-friendly collections.”
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Nick Irwin global Creative Director
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These days, Irish men are fashion-savvy, style-conscious and are prepared to spend money on how they look â€“ welcome to the world of male grooming
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Hair by Davey Davey, photography by Maciej Pestka
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Rooms T he G rooming
A short back and sides at the local barber just doesn’t cut it anymore – with the male beauty industry valued at more than E26 billion worldwide, the figures alone should have salon owners sitting up and taking notice. So, if male grooming is on the rise, how can your business tap into this booming market and adapt the idea of the salon so that it appeals to a male clientele? For Kerry salon owner Sean Taaffe, the decision to open The Men’s Room, a separate male-only styling room at the group’s flagship Lewis Road salon in Killarney, stemmed from the success of the stand-alone barbershop he opened in August 2011. “From the minute we opened the barbershop, it’s been a huge success, but for some reason its success wasn’t being mirrored in the other salons so we decided to find out why,” Sean reveals. “We sent out a stylist to ask the men going into the barbershop why they wouldn’t feel comfortable in one of the main salons and he found out that our branding and image was more female-focused. But when we opened the segregated area in November of last year, we found that men were more confident about coming in.” But what if space or budget restrictions prevent a
salon from sectioning off their male clientele? Can they still capitalise on the male market? Alannah Downey from Gerard Paul Hairdressing worked predominantly as a female stylist for five years, but last year decided to focus on male clients and has noticed a huge increase in the number of guys coming into the salon in the past few months. “Men in their mid-20s are open to change and they definitely aren’t afraid to come into the salon to get their hair cut and coloured,” she explains. “They might have to sit beside a female client but they know that they’ll be leaving with a good cut so this outweighs any kind of embarrassment or hesitation they might have.” Ian Davey, co-owner of Dublin salon Davey Davey, reveals that men make up 30 per cent of its client base and the number of male clients coming into the salon is continuing to grow, something Ian believes is down to his female clients. “We’re seeing an increase in the number of male clients who are coming to see us based on recommendations from their wives or girlfriends. A lot of men are nervous coming into the salon for the first time but it’s about reassuring them that their voice will be heard,” he says. So, how do he and the other stylists in the salon approach their male clients? “The consultation is so important and we try to find out as much information as possible from the moment they first
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Cut & Sew
sit in the chair. A lot of men think that they’ll leave with a crazy hairstyle so finding out where they work and how corporate they have to look, as well as what kind of style they are looking for, helps reassure clients that they’re going to get a good cut that will fit in with their needs.” A close shave Dublin’s The Grooming Rooms offers clients barbering services and traditional hot shaves, as well as hot stone massages and prescriptive facials and has advocated fitting in with clients’ needs since it opened its doors in 2008. Having gone to a male-only day spa in Melbourne, co-owner Cian McDonald and his business partner John Erraught thought about how a similar service could be adapted for the Irish market. “Irish men are just starting to catch up with their European counterparts who have demanded quality grooming services for several years now.” John also adds that there are a number of factors that have influenced this shift in attitude, in particular wives and girlfriends. “We have clients who are initially skeptical about treatments, but having tried it out, they are eager to rebook – they want to come back. And our client base is very broad, from young men in their late teens to gentlemen in their 80s.” So, have Irish men started to realise that a trip to the barbers doesn’t have to be a chore but can actually
be a relaxing and pampering experience, but without any stigma attached? For Emmett Byrne, owner of The Butcher Barber in Dublin, creating the right environment for male clients is the key to his success. “Male clients want the service but not the fuss. The salon experience can feel intimidating and too fussy for many men but they also feel that their local barber isn’t up to scratch, so it’s about creating a balance between the two,” he reveals. “We consider ourselves stylists and we try to combine the skills of barbering and hairdressing and colouring because it’s becoming obvious that men are looking for more than what the traditional barber can give them. They’ve realised there’s a difference between a good cut and a bad one, a good colour and a bad one and they want the convenience of making an appointment and the relaxed experience of having a coffee while they’re at it.” Barbering on the box Dublin barbershop Cut & Sew has been open for just over a year and is currently located in the basement of a record shop in Temple Bar. Owner Sean Bryan, who comes from a traditional hairdressing background, felt
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that he could get more creative working with male clients. He has noticed a huge increase in the number of clients who are becoming braver in their barbering choices. “TV and movies have had a big influence on haircuts in the last couple of years and shows like Boardwalk Empire have led to an increase in that old school-look. It’s now more acceptable to have a good haircut, have good skin,” explains Sean. “It’s about being groomed and polished and needing to look sharp all the time, so we’re seeing more and more clients requesting crops and blends that they’ve seen on characters from TV shows based in the ’30s and ’40s. It’s vintage inspiration with a twist.” Ian Davey agrees: “Gents are getting more styleconscious and you can see that fashion or style icons from movies like The Great Gatsby and TV shows like Mad Men are inspiring them to go for that old school, groomed look.” Techno-logic Ian Davey and Sean Bryan both credit developments in social media and technology with giving male clients the confidence to experiment with their look. “We have iPads in the salon which we use as a consultation tool to allow the client to show us exactly what he wants,” explains Ian.
“Men are tech-savvy and they like the way technology allows them to be a bit more private and discreet. They would rarely pull a page out of a magazine to show their hairdresser, so I think technology plays to their macho side and makes them think that the experience is more ‘manly’.” For Sean Bryan, activity on social media has given his clients a virtual menu before they even enter his barbershop. “Social media has been phenomenal in getting us off the ground. I use Facebook, Twitter and Instagram to display my work and so often a new client will book an appointment based on what they’ve seen online,” he says. “Having that visual inspiration is a massive bonus as it cuts your and their stress levels. If they don’t know how to describe what they want they can show you what they want.” Emmett Byrne concludes: “Men are creatures of habit – we know what we like and we like knowing what we’re walking into. They aren’t afraid to tell their friends that they go to a specialist barber or salon anymore and they’re not afraid to look good, but they still want to feel like a man and they need a little more reassurance than female clients – so it’s up to you to get the balance right.”
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J John Vial
From the salon floor at Sassoon to creative director at cult brand Fudge via honing his craft at some of the most iconic catwalk shows in history, John Vial's style credentials need little introduction. But what most people don’t know about John is where it all began, the influence his Irish roots have had on his career and where he actually envisaged he’d learn his craft...
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John on a Fudge video shoot with technical director Tracey Hayes
John with Molly Parkin
Child’s play “You won’t believe that my career started in my uncle Terry’s barbershop in Drogheda,” says John Vial, Fudge creative director and backstage regular at London Collections: Men, proudly. “We went home to Ireland every summer and, from around the age of seven, I was always dropping in – sweeping the floors and getting the newspapers to start with before graduating onto washing hair when I was about 10! I was just mesmerised by the way my uncle cut hair and could transform the way someone looked. It was where I was first inspired to work with hair.” But didn’t it seem odd to have an 11-yearold on the shop floor? “I always knew that John had the ability to be a great hairdresser and he’s always been a great communicator,” uncle Terry Duffy reveals. “Even from a very early age, it was clear he had something special. He could chat away to customers and make them feel at ease. John’s attached to Ireland – his roots are here, he feels a very strong connection to Drogheda and
it’s where he first became inspired to do hair – but once he started working for Vidal Sassoon, it was clear that he was destined for big things. I knew he wouldn’t be coming back to work for me full time!” London Calling But John initially had other plans: “I always knew that I was going to leave school at 16 and become a hairdresser. My plan was always to go back to Drogheda and work with my uncle – him cutting men’s and me doing ladies’ hair.” But the lure of London proved too tempting to resist, and when John was accepted into the Vidal Sassoon Academy, his plans to return to Drogheda and set up with Terry were put on ice. And who could blame him? From his eventual appointment as creative director at Vidal Sassoon to his pioneering of the brand’s first ever sponsorship of London Fashion Week, John’s passion for fostering creative talent has meant that he’s always been at the forefront of what’s happening in the here
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About a brand Talking to John and charting his meteoric career to date, it seems like he has a knack for spotting trends just before they filter into the mainstream, and his appointment as creative director at Fudge is a perfect example of this. The brand has signed a six-season sponsorship deal with London Collections: Men, and this summer will have successfully completed its second. “When I was working with Sassoon and we were first starting to sponsor the London and New York Fashion Weeks there was electricity in the air. You could feel this amazing energy and this time, all eyes are on men. We’re already a popular male brand, so London Collections: Men seems like a really organic fit,” John explains. This season,
This page and opposite: John Vial working at London Collections: Men
and now. “I’ve worked with some amazing people over the years. From my creative collaboration with my great friend [milliner] Phillip Treacy and working with [fashion photographer] Rankin to being involved with the next generation of talent and emerging designers at Central Saint Martins in London, I’ve always aimed to work with amazingly creative people,” he explains.
teams from Fudge styled a number of shows backstage with John working at three – Christian Shannon, James Long and underwear brand HOM – as well as hosting ‘The Fudge Fix’, a dedicated salon and lounge that provides cutting and styling services to celebrity and fashion VIPs. “It’s an amazing time for menswear and it’s now just as important as the women’s ready-to-wear weeks,” he adds. “Back in the day when we did The Clothes Show Live, we’d have about 12 female models and about six males, and the guys were always completely ignored. Now, backstage at shows, the guys need equal attention. Male grooming isn’t the biggest sector in the market but it is the fastest growing – the emerging market is male.” man’s world So, why does John think men’s fashion and grooming is finally on an equal footing and more acceptable in the mainstream market? “The shift has happened for a thousand reasons. The idea of what a man is has changed. It’s not just one version – now there are masculine gay men, heterosexual men who like to moisturise, put factor on their skin, have regular waxing and tanning sessions and wear make-up. Even during the punk movement in the ’70s and ’80s, wearing make-up
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was still a bit of a taboo, but now ‘guyliner’ isn’t even considered a big deal,” he reveals. And he also explains that this is down to the media and our obsession with sportsmen: “You saw it with Kevin Keegan’s perm in the ’70s, Dennis Rodman’s bleached hair in the ’90s and of course, David Beckham’s highlights, shaved styles and cornrows; even his sarongs! When a sportsman does something a bit different, it’s still perceived as masculine because of who they are and what they represent and, therefore, okay to copy.” Full Circle But does he find it strange that he’s starting to come full circle – although working backstage during London Collections: Men is far from his uncle’s barbershop, he has in some ways returned to his hairdressing roots? “I love cutting men’s hair now. Long hair is still so in vogue both commercially and editorially, so there’s not a lot you can do. But with shorter men’s styles you can be more creative and you know, working in my uncle’s barbershop and seeing how successful he’s been for more than 30 years has been a huge influence on me.” And it’s not only John who recognised the influence his start in the barbershop has had on his career. When John asked his friend and mentor, Vidal Sassoon, to sign a copy of his book to give to Terry, he didn’t know just how personal
the touching message would be. “John gave me a copy of Vidal’s book and on the inside cover, Vidal thanks me for getting John involved in hairdressing and giving him his start in the industry. It reads: ‘Terry, You did a splendid thing for our craft when you inspired John to become a crimper. Fond wishes, Vidal Sassoon’,” Terry reveals. “I’ve been in business since 1981 and survived two recessions, but now I go to John for advice.” Today, it seems that in everything John does – from fashion weeks to his new column with Josh Wood in the Sunday Times Style magazine in the UK – his roots and humble beginnings in the barbershop in Drogheda have never left him. “I’m not here to put anyone down, but I really love being honest with people and I pride myself on being transparent. The column is just an extension of me being on the salon floor, chatting to clients and giving advice,” he explains. As fellow Style columnist Josh Wood said in a recent issue of the magazine: “Keeping an element of who you are is really important, otherwise you look like a caricature.” When you listen to John speak with such genuine affection and pride about where it all began for him, you can’t help but feel that this message is never far from his mind.
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GET TRIBAL! We uncover the style tribes you need to know about this season to inspire, educate and maximse your profits. Creative HEAD Ireland September ISSUE, OUT 5 september
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Eugene Souleiman at Mary Katrantzou A/W13, image courtesy of Wella Professionals
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“Classic has become trendy again and we’re seeing a return to that kind of men’s styling. Think neat side-partings, groomed shapes and natural texture”
sinessm en u b y a w e “Th m wa s a o o r g d n a d re s s t w h en in o p e c n e re fe r ing th is I w a s pu t t og ether ” t n io t c e l col
lection “The col ed was inspir and by Gucci uren Ralph La ertising S/S13 adv s– campaign elegant, us and glamoro t” up-marke
“The styling in the shoot mirrors and complements the hair. It’s classic tailoring with a modern twist”
“I drew a lot of inspiration from past decades, especially the ’30s”
Storyboard Old-fashioned values brought up to date lie at the heart of this modern take on the classic gent by Kaliope Thomas
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… oma Dav e d Th vey
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so om K llide l o A fr
e ec or ur m t e tex Se d n a ur o l Co
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Proving that sometimes less is more, The Masculine Elegance collection from Kaliope Thomas is a relaxed, modern take on the traditional Photography Russell Fleming
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Hair & make-up Kaliope Thomas at Tsiknaris, Brisbane, Australia Hair Stylist Liza at Michael Innis
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In high definition Inspired by the irregularities that occur in digital prints and futuristic fabrics, Davey Daveyâ€™s latest collection explores what happens when texture and colour collide Photography Macie Pestka
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Hair Davey Davey Make-up Ken Boylan at Make Up Play Styling Melissa Regan
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THE LAST WORD
The customer’s always right Forget the latest cutting and colouring techniques – five-star customer service is the only way your salon will ever be able to excel, says Paul Griffin Cast your mind back over the past month and think of the variety of customer service experiences you’ve had – from the coffee hastily grabbed at your local café to replacing your old TV with the latest 3D version at your nearest electrical store. Was it outstanding, average, or worthy of Shakespeare – a comedy of errors? Did you want to rush to tell your friends about how amazing it was, or want to run a mile? I bet we can all think of at least one or two examples of woeful experiences that have passed as service and some of us have probably even relayed this back to a friend or client or two. So I’m going to play devil’s advocate for a minute. How confident are you that people are waxing lyrical about their visits to your business? Is your staff excelling in this area at a time when service is under the same scrutiny as technical work? And if you are confident they have performed excellently every time, how many hours of training have you provided this month to get staff to that level? How are you measuring it and how do you actually know that what your team is saying to clients mirrors your standard of customer service? Self analysis is uncomfortable, but if you’re still reading and still with me, believe me when I say I know what I’m talking about. Because like all the best mad scientists, I’ve carried out the experiments on myself and so I can say with great confidence that this is where you and your team can make the greatest, proudest and most profitable steps forward. Once you commit to measuring
this key area of your business, training and rewarding excellence, just watch your client list, reputation and bottom line grow. Get it wrong and the results are equally dramatic. The lightning-quick consultation, minus haircare and styling solutions, the checkout done at breakneck speed with no invitation back, or the painful wait without acknowledgement at reception. I know this isn’t the norm, but be honest, it happens sometimes and it could be your business people are talking about negatively. This is why I love the work I do internationally with PHAB Standards, the customer service and business standards brainchild of Nergish Wadia Austin. First of all you need a benchmarking system for your team members – remember the numbers never lie – and a clear standard for them to aim for. You need an online customer service exam, which can be used during recruitment or appraisals to identify excellent or terrible customer service. Picture a world where the blogs are all saying good things about you, client referrals are through the roof and complaints are down to almost nil. This is all possible but if you want to be the best, there’s work to do. It’s ongoing and never-ending, but it’s as exciting as keeping up with the latest cuts and styles. So, greet people sincerely, reach out to everyone and be available. Paul Griffin owns Zenith Hairdressing, Galway and writes for the PHAB Standards blog, Phabstandards.com
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Published on Jul 2, 2013
Published on Jul 2, 2013
Ireland's finest is back with incredible features and in-depth reviews, including a special interview with Fudge's John Vial