CPH Post 2021 Xmas Supplement

“A Danish Christmas is magnificent, quite unforgettably magnificent.”

- H C Andersen

XMAS IN DENMARK

“Denmark is like a big family of people” - Susanne Bier

“Imagine that. I haven’t had this much fun since Yoko and I danced around a Danish Christmas tree in 1970.”

- John Lennon

“My father is from Copenhagen and he lived there until he was in his late 20s. We always grew up with a lot of Danish culture at home. My mother is Jewish but we always celebrated Christmas because we loved the traditions of Danish Christmas.”

- Scarlett Johansson All year round the Danes love hygge, and then in December, something happens. The hygge stops and ‘Julehygge’ begins.

Julehygge consists of julemad, julebryg, julepynt, julegaver, julenisser, julesang, juleschnapps and the firm’s Christmas party, which is known as the julefrokost. Yes, julehygge is hygge times ten!

- Vivienne McKee

CHRISTMAS IN DENMARK

GREATEST STORY EVER TOLD

JULESIDE.DK

Viggo Johansen’s painting ‘Glade Jul’ from 1891 perfectly embodies the Danish Christmas

Why listening to it in Danish could improve your understanding Ever wondered why the Danes are so good at English, and you’re so bad at their language?

Ask yourself: how many Danish versions are there of Anglophone classic novels, films or songs? Not many, right! If the Danes like it, they’ll enjoy the original with subtitles, not dub it like in southern Europe. Or they’ll craft something completely unique.

Take ‘Happy Birthday’. There are Albanian, Armenian, Bulgarian and Croatian versions – and that’s just up to ‘D’ in Europe.

But there’s no Danish version! The Danes have their own songs: brilliantly inventive, much longer and far jollier. And sometimes they sing Happy Birthday as well – in English.

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CHRISTMAS 2021 GUIDE

A STORY WE ALL KNOW So we’re agreed that Danes are good at English because they get to practise it enjoying Anglophone songs (increasingly rap, let’s face it) and films.

If only there was a story in Danish that we were already familiar with in English. No, it’s not ‘Out of Africa’ … some have even said it’s the greatest story ever told. Harry Potter, Luke Skywalker, Neo off ‘The Matrix’ are all based on it!

UNIQUE XMAS SONGS Not only do the Danes have unique birthday songs, but the same is true of Christmas.

Granted there are a few foreign language classics that have made the grade, such as ‘Away in a Manger’ (US), ‘O come all ye faithful’ (disputed origins), ‘Jingle Bells’ (US) and ‘Stille Nacht’ (Germany), but not that many.

But don’t let that stump you, as some of the Danish songs are really, really good – and also useful if you want to enjoy dancing around the Christmas tree.

Yes, it’s the story of Jesus Christ, and this is the story of how going to a Danish church could dramatically help you improve your English.

DANCING AT SPEED To get the party going, let’s start with the 18th century Swedish ditty ‘Nu er det Jul igen’ (now it is Christmas again).

After all, as was demonstrated at Pentecost, foeign tongues needn’t be an obstacle for kindred spirits with a shared cultural heritage and traditions.

Undoubtedly the most energetic choice for dancing around the Christmas tree, it’s a cue to tour the rest of the house at high speed, over beds and as fast as possible, singing on repeat.

CHRISTMAS IN DENMARK If that sounds like hard work, learning it is easy: “Nu’ det jul igen, og nu’ det jul igen, og julen varer li’ til påske / Nej det’ ikke sandt, nej det’ ikke sandt, for ind imellem kommer fasten” simply translates as “Now, it’s Xmas again (twice) and Xmas lasts until Easter / No, it’s not true (twice), because in between comes Lent.”

Repeat after me: Now I know a Danish Christmas song.

VISIT DENMARK/ KRISTIAN KROGH

DEEPLY HUMOROUS Equally catchy is ‘På loftet sidder nissen med sin julegrød’ (In the attic, the elf is sitting with his Christmas porridge), which starts off slowly with the title line and then really catches fire mid-verse with a group of rats envious of the Christmas feast.

It’s a deeply humorous take on what might be happening above the beams and below the floorboards of a typical Danish abode.

Also with its eyes on the ceiling is ‘Højt fra træets grønne top’ (‘high up on the Christmas tree’), which looks at Christmas through the eyes of a small child, all huge and novel.

HALLELUJAH TO THAT ‘Hallelujah’ also features heavily in ‘Handel’s Messiah’, which has over the last century become a mainstay of the Danish Christmas.

THE CROWN OF CANDLES Another fabulous Christmas tradition that has been catching on fast in Denmark of late is observed on Luciadag on December 13.

Again very witty, and a little philosophical, the final verse is told from the perspective of a parent who tells the kids: “Nu er jeg blevet træt” (I’m knackered now) and finally “Julen varer længe, koster mange penge” (Christmas joys are many, costs a pretty penny).

The oratorio regales the story of Christ’s birth, crucifixion, resurrection, ascension, and return. And the Danes keep on returning to church every year to hear it.

You might have seen a procession at your child’s school. Bearing candles, all dressed in white, the participants sing the saint’s song, which once heard stays with you until next year.

It was said that King George II of Britain was so impressed by the music that he stood up to show his appreciation during the famous ‘Hallelujah’ chorus, thus starting a tradition that is still followed today.

Celebrated annually in Sweden since 1927, and in Denmark since 1944, the head of the procession wears a crown of candles. If you have the chance to witness the procession in a church, don’t miss the opportunity.

CONCERTS AT THE CHURCHES But really, ‘Handel’s Messiah’ is just the tip of the iceberg concerning concerts in Copenhagen over Christmas and the New Year. Clearly singing plays a huge part in the festive experience here.

CRAZY TO MISS THIS! Britain has its festive pantomimes, but most countries prefer Christmas ballets, and Denmark is no exception. ‘The Nutcracker’ is playing almost every day at Gamle Scene until December 22, and ‘The Snow Queen’ at Tivoli until December 23.

Gospel music, classic Christmas music, other classical music and even the odd Disney song will be played at multiple venues across the capital in December.

An added bonus at the latter: this is the ballet that Queen Margrethe designed most of the costumes and decorations for!

PIERCING AND SOULFUL Bridging the gap between Christmas songs and carols is ‘Dejlig er den himmel blå’. An early work by NFS Grundtvig, who based the carol on the nativity story in the Gospel of Matthew, the music followed in 1840. It’s been a favourite in church pews and around the tree ever since.

You’ll probably only hear ‘Dejlig er jorden’, written by BS Ingemann in 1850, in church, though. Piercingly beautiful, once heard it isn’t forgotten. For many Danes, it is such a nostalgic and meaningful carol that it’s often sung for funerals, as well as at Christmas.

Sprinkled with a generous number of Hallelujas, ‘Et barn er født i Bethlehem’ is another favourite with congregations across Denmark.

And it is no surprise to note that the absolute majority will be held in churches. They have a track record of delivering – spiritually, acoustically, capacity-wise and on price too!

But if it is British-style panto you’re craving, try the Crazy Christmas Cabaret, also at Tivoli. Their show this year, which runs until January 15, is set in Miami – just the ticket for warming up for Christmas!

CHRISTMAS AT D’ANGLETERRE

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ROM TOP to toe, as always at Christmas, The White Lady, hotel d'Angleterre will exude the warmest of holiday spirit and cheer, and according to tradition, be decorated in true d’Angleterre festive style.

Our menus will abound with the season’s best produce and other Christmas treats.

The Snow Queen’s white gløgg will be served at our cozy, heated terrace and in Wine Room in Marchal’s beautiful surroundings. This has been the case at d’Angleterre for decades – and hopefully it will be for many more – but we will have to wait another year for the joy of experiencing Kongens Nytorv and the buzz of life and sweet expectations on a dark afternoon in November, when we can reveal the next spectacular Christmas façade to the tunes of The Royal Life Guards Music Band’s winter ensemble.

But the d’Angleterre Christmas spirit will still reach far beyond the walls of the hotel and into the hearts of Copenhageners as they pass by.

And we mean that literally: This winter we will also announce a new concept, that soon will open the doors to Copenhageners and the city’s guests.

We look forward to welcoming you to the season of hearts at d’Angleterre. Check out some of our highlights below:

CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR AT BALTHAZAR December at Balthazar Champagne Bar is extra bubbly.

Every day from December 1 to 24, our classic Champagne Christmas calendar gives one lucky winner an exclusive Balthazar gift. To participate, you simply need to like the daily @balthazarcph post on Instagram and tag someone with whom the gift should be shared.

CHRISTMAS AT MARCHAL You can’t go wrong when taking in d'Angleterre’s renowned and Michelin-awarded restaurant, Marchal. One of the best restaurants in Copenhagen, Marchal is designed as the indisputable destination for wining and fine dining in this culinary capital, a legacy that further glistens brightly over Christmas.

The kitchen is run by Danish Executive Chef Jakob de Neergaard, one of Denmark's greatest masters of classic French Michelin gastronomy. His menu is characterized by gastronomic palatability and here you will find extraordinary taste experiences whether you are celebrating a special occasion or just life itself.

Come and try our stunning Champagne Gløgg Cocktail, one of our proudest Christmas traditions- a mesmerising cocktail that has the aroma and tastes of Christmas magic.

So come down and sample some enticing menus that include Smoked salmon with Jerusalem artichokes, horseradish and trout roe, Poached cod with black winter truffles, celeriac and sauce Aromatic, Roasted duck breast with cabbage, onion and black currant sauce or Grilled lobster with yellow beetroots, parsley, Piment d’Espelette and bisque. Top it all off with Marchal’s Christmas specialty, the traditional Danish ris à l’amande.

Book now at reservations@balthazarcph.dk

Make your reservation at Marchal this Christmas before it is too late, please e-mail: marchal@dangleterre.com

CHRISTMAS FOR CHILDREN At d’Angleterre, we go to great lengths to create the ultimate Christmas adventure for our youngest guests, which begins from the moment we welcome them with homemade Christmas cookies and sweets in a cute d’Angleterre tin house and a little booklet of Christmas stories.

From December 20 to 29, d’Angleterre will also boast a special playroom for children, where they can play with the hotel’s other young guests. On Christmas Eve, Santa Claus will bring presents for all the children Please contact our reception for more information.

WINTER AT CREATIONS SNOW QUEEN’S WHITE GLØGG This winter, it is possible to bring our Snow Queen’s white From November 1, CREATIONS boutique will be gløgg home, where it can be enjoyed with friends and transformed into an adventurous Christmas world of family, or you may choose to give it as a Christmas gift. light, sparkles and magic: Sparkling Christmas balls, adorable scented candles from Christian Tortu, beautiful The beautifully designed bottles of Snow Queen’s white candlesticks, wonderful little birds in sparkling gold cages gløgg are crafted and the contents just as magical as and several varieties of the classical nutcrackers for the when the gløgg was first created in the previous mil- extravagant Christmas tree. lennium!

We have carefully selected the most alluring Christmas Come, taste and purchase in MAISON on the corner gifts ideas: Soft velvet pillows, Champagne coolers in of Kongens Nytorv and Strøget silver - and much, much more.

CHRISTMAS BREAK & TIVOLI WINTER SUITES & MARCHAL Embrace the spirit of the Christmas season by treating yourself and a loved one For the ultimate luxury winter getaway in Copenhagen, guests can book a stay in to a stay at d’Angleterre, including a visit to the famed nearby Tivoli Gardens to see a suite at d’Angleterre, indulge in a three-course dinner at our Michelin-starred the festive Christmas decorations. restaurant Marchal, and wake up to our lavish breakfast buffet. This special winter rate is available for stays between January 1 and March 31, 2022.

Available for stays between November 19, 2021 and January 2, 2022, the special Christmas Break offering includes entrance tickets to Tivoli Gardens and our lavish Prices from DKK 5.830 for two guests.Upgrade available from Sunday through breakfast buffet. Minimum two-night stay. Prices from DKK 7,850 per stay.

Thursday (subject to availability). The offer is subject to availability for any of the room types and cannot be combined with other offers.

AMAZING SPACE SPA Leave the busy weekday behind and descend into the tranquil spa area at d’Angleterre. With the only indoor swimming pool in inner Copenhagen, the Amazing Space at d’Angleterre is one of the trendiest spas in Copenhagen and excels at guiding you through soothing and nurturing treatments. So come treat yourself and your loved ones!

COMING SOON! MAISON D'ANGLETERRE This winter, we will open the doors to MAISON, a discerning taste universe for connoisseurs. Here you will find the finest delicacies straight from Marchal’s kitchen: Marchal’s Gold Selection Caviar, exquisite truffles, a delicious variety of Christmas teas and many other wonderful products that spoil both palate and soul.

DANISH CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS

BEHIND THE FESTIVE TRADITIONS

VISIT DENMARK/ MATHIAS MILTON

Decoding a Christmas that established its roots long before the arrival of Christianity The Vikings first encountered Christianity in the 8th and 9th centuries with the arrival of foreign monks and the increase in foreign trade. The first Danish king to convert to Christianity, Harold Blåtand (Harald Bluetooth), was baptised in around 965.

Despite pressure from the church to call Christmas ´Kristmesse´, the Danes kept the term ‘Jul’ – a variation on the name of the historical festival Yule.

It means wheel, and it’s no exaggeration to say that a wheely good time is had by all in Denmark at Christmas time.

CANDLES AND CHOCOLATE Despite the fondness for cinnamon and cloves, Christmas is all about the sweetness!

Bakeries and shops will stock special sweets and cakes in the weeks leading up to Christmas and often create elaborate window displays to showcase their skills.

Treats enjoyed throughout Denmark include the deep-fried lemony klejner (see page 8), nutty gingerbread brunkager and tiny spiced biscuits called pebernødder.

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CHRISTMAS 2021 GUIDE

And let’s not forget the æbleskiver (mini doughnut-shaped pancakes) and gløgg (mulled wine flavoured with dried fruits, nuts and Xmas spices), which is served at every festive market, along with roasted almonds.

Kids, meanwhile, are placated until the arrival of Julemanden (Father Christmas) with chocolate in their Advent calendars, although the julekalenderen tradition (see factbox) goes way beyond this, with some calendars bestowing gifts on every Sunday of Advent, and others every single day!

During Advent, Denmark’s love of candles takes on an even bigger dimension, as each house has a special candle with the days until Christmas marked on it. The candle is duly lit each day to burn it down to the next day’s date.

Alternatively, advent wreaths composed of evergreen twigs and ribbons hold four candles – and one is lit on each of the four Sundays preceding Christmas.

KEEP THE NISSER NICE! Now your candles are lit, you can decorate.

Like in most Christian countries, the tree ends up being the main focus (see page 8), although it won’t be completed until Christmas Eve. This leaves the door open for the festive period’s designated interlopers: the ‘nisser’.

You might assume these bearded elves, dressed in grey trousers and red hats, are Julemanden’s little helpers, but the tradition goes back much, much further.

Children often leave out bowls of risengrød for them, the sweet rice pudding eaten throughout Jul, and this stems from a tradition established shortly after the arrival of Christianity when it was believed ‘gårdboer’ lived in the lofts of houses or barns to protect the ‘gård’ (farm).

These ‘gårdboer’ demanded offerings in order to ensure a good crop. Failure to do so could result in pranks or worse. In fact, nisser were often blamed for the death of livestock and spoiling of food stores.

One of the etymological origins of the word ‘nisser’ may be from the old Norse word for ‘infection’. More likely, though, it is a nickname derived from Niels!

To whet your children’s appetite this year, why not visit Nisseland, which was established near Kalundborg in the most western part of Zealand in 2002. The 1,500 sqm venue includes the world’s largest mechanical nisser display.

STEMS FROM HUMAN SACRIFICE Also derived from paganism are the traditions of the Julebuk and Yule Boar

DANISH CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS Loaf. Originally they were sacrifices made to assure a good harvest (so important that humans were often slain), but they switched from animals to inanimate objects following the arrival of Christianity: most typically a straw doll.

This corn dolly/corn mother would sit on tables throughout Yuletide before being burned on Christmas Eve, thereby purifying the house.

allowed to pick any you should desire. It’s basically an excuse to be horrid for a while!

THE TV MARATHON Kids, meanwhile, are kept entertained by the Julekalender TV show. The first, ‘Historier fra Hele Verden’ (stories from around the world), was broadcast by DR in 1962. Sweden had launched a similar show in 1960.

In modern times, the descendant of the corn dolly in Denmark is the ‘Julebuk’ (barley goat). Today it survives the furnace and returns to the box of Christmas decorations.

Some are purchased as a tourist curio and then no doubt mistaken for Spanish donkeys.

Audiences started to catch on in 1967 with ‘Kender du Decembervej?’ and its hugely popular central character, a happy mouse called Magnus Tagmus, who returned in a sequel the following year. By 1971, the program was in colour and pencilled into the nation’s must-watch schedule. The first complementary advent calendar came out in 1977.

Another corn-related tradition that evolved from the sacrifice was the baking of a boar-shaped loaf using the last sheaf of grain harvested in the year: the Yule Boar Loaf.

Since 1990, DR and TV2 have been taking it in turns to produce a new one – the same year the latter released the first one aimed at adults. Every year, up to ten repeats are shown.

Often it was kept until sowing time in the spring, when part of it was mixed with the seed grain and part given to the ploughman and the plough horses or plough oxen in expectation of a good harvest.

The most popular character is probably Pyrus, who first made an appearance in 1994 and has even had his own feature film. But his popularity has never taken off beyond Scandinavia. In contrast, the 2003 edition ‘Jesus & Josefine’ ended up being shown in 20 different countries.

THE LONG LUNCH A good spread is always expected at the Julefrokost.

Often arranged within friend groups and sporting circles, the most popular kind is the office Julefrokost, where the feasting often starts just after lunch and continues all day.

Typical starters include pickled herrings, gravadlax and breaded fish fillets served with mayonnaise, prawns and eggs – all served on rye bread.

For the main, flæskesteg (roast pork and crackling) with red cabbage is the most common option, and for dessert the aforementioned risengrød, which can be jazzed up into a ris a l’amande.

All of this is washed down by julebryg, the Christmas beer traditionally launched on J Dag on the first Friday of November that is much stronger than your average beer, and the constant downing of schnapps – it’s rude to turn down a toast, after all!

Aalborg Akvavit’s limited Jule edition bottles are individually numbered and changed in design every year. Collectors around the world try and secure one of each design – although the contents are just as appealing as the bottle itself.

And don’t forget Pakkeleg, the dice game that never gets old. Everyone reveals a wrapped present, and then participants take turns in rolling a dice. A six wins you a present, but once all of them are claimed, the rules permit another five minutes during which you are

THE BIG DAY ITSELF After such a huge build-up, you’d imagine Danes would want a quiet Christmas, but no. Christmas itself is a multi-day affair.

And then Christmas Eve starts with a trip to church, often followed by a fulsome walk to work up an appetite for the feasting ahead.

Upon their return, the family finishes decorating the tree and settles down to watch the Christmas Disney show and various TV julekalenders, while the designated chefs do their magic.

Traditionally on Christmas Eve, roast duck, pork or goose takes centre stage and is served with caramelised potatoes, braised red cabbage and a variety of pickled side dishes.

This is followed by ris a l’amande (see page 8) – a mix of sweet rice pudding,

ly friendly i m a F teractive In oming Welc

whipped cream and crushed almonds. It’s often served with a sauce made from winter berries, sometimes collected by children whilst out walking. A whole almond is hidden in the pudding, and the person who finds it wins the mandelgave – a gift purchased for the occasion.

Following the Christmas dinner, everyone holds hands and dances around the tree singing traditional songs (see page 8).

The 25th and 26th are quiet days spent at home with more food, friends and family, recovering from the excesses of the previous days and looking forward to the party starting again at New Year.

THE FIVE CALENDARS OF XMAS Julekalender – the general term for a Christmas calendar; normally contains chocolates Pakkekalender – contains a wrapped gift for every day of December until Christmas Adventkalender – contains a gift for each of the four Sundays leading up to Christmas TV-Julekalender – a TV show broadcast every day of December until Christmas Calendar Candle – a candle marked with 24 increments

It's for everyone of all ages! ,

Family Christmas Service 12 December at 12:00 KULTURSTATIONEN VANLØSE JERNBANE ALLE 38 www.facebook.com/levendekirke

HOW TO MAKE ...

A Danish Xmas Tree

Star Candles/candleholders Fairylights Bramming Nisse cutouts String Raisins, dried fruits, nuts etc 1. If you’re opting for fairylights, hang them on the tree first to avoid displacing your carefully hung decorations later.

2. Decorate with ‘kravlenisser’ (‘climbing nisser’) paper cutouts (drawn by Frederik Bramming in 1947 and are still popular today) and plaited hearts and stars folded from four long strips of paper 3. Traditional edible decorations include gingerbread, marzipan, caramels, apples, figs, dates, raisins and nuts. These can be tucked into paper decorations or hung with string.

4. Time for the crowning glory. Most households opt for a star in reference to the star of Bethlehem. The star is the final touch, unless you’re using live candles.

5. Lighting candles on the tree is one of the standout idiosyncrasies of the season. Do it last to avoid turning your tree into a burning bush.

A Danish Xmas Heart Coloured paper (two colours works best) Scissors Optional: glue & glitter Optional: crayons & paint 1. Cut two paper ovals, each with two incisions as shown 2. Fold the ovals in half 3. Align each half as shown 4. Weave the top left strip acoss the body of the right heart 5. Pull the sides together to make a heart shape

Klejner Biscuits 1 egg 60g sugar 1 lemon 70g melted butter 1 teaspoon cardamom 1 teaspoon baking powder 225g wheatflour 75g cream Palmin for frying 1. Whisk together eggs and sugar in a bowl 2. Peel the lemon, avoid the bitter white pith. Stir the peel into the sugar and egg mix with a mixing spoon.

3. Stir in the melted butter.

Add cardamom and baking powder before gradually stirring in sieved wheat flour.

4. Finally, add cream and knead Refrigerate the dough for 24 hours.

Roll out the dough with a rolling pin to a thickness of around half a cm.

5. Now cut the dough into rectangular panes – easily done by scoring with a pizza cutter. Make a diagonal cut in the middle of each rectangle from one corner to the opposite, being careful not to cut right to the edge. Pull one of the corners through the hole to make the classic klejner shape.

6. Melt the Palmin in a saucepan and cook the klejner at 170-180 degrees C for 2 minutes each side, until golden and crispy.

Tip: You can freeze the klejner dough, uncooked, after shaping. When you want to cook them, simply cook in hot Palmin as directed – no need to defrost.

Ris à l’amande Serves 4 65g porridge rice (grødris) 500ml milk Seeds from ½ vanilla pod 150g blanched almonds, chopped 1 tablespoon sugar Dash of dry marsala sherry 300ml whipping cream (piskefløde, 38%)

6. Weave the top right strip across the body of the left heart, over and under the opposing strips

1. Cook pudding rice, milk and vanilla slowly, stirring frequently

7. Follow suit with the next two strips

2. Remove from heat, add sugar, sherry

8. Tuck the final left strip over and under, threading it through the bottom strip of the right side

3. Once cool, stir in almonds Finally, whip cream and stir in

9. At the bottom, insert the end of the left strip into the right

4. Serve cold with hot cherry sauce

10. Voila

Tip: Lightly butter the pot to prevent burning

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CHRISTMAS 2021 GUIDE