AMBASSADOR'S WORDS
Y
ou are now holding a special supplement on Iceland in your hand. This year, which differs from other years in so many ways, the Embassy of Iceland in Denmark – Iceland‘s first and oldest mission abroad – celebrated its 100-year anniversary. One hundred years certainly calls for a celebration. And as we did plan quite a few events for the celebration during the year, the corona pandemic has pushed us to find an innovative means of celebrating it. This special supplement on Iceland, made in collaboration with the Copenhagen Post, is one of them.
Ever since Iceland‘s independence and sovereignty the two countries have had strong friendly relations, both in political terms, culturally and in terms of trade. Icelanders have long held a fondness for Denmark - we regard Denmark, and the Nordic countries, as friends and family. Iceland is well represented in Denmark. Almost 50,000 Icelandic citizens reside outside of Iceland, out of which about 12,000 have residence in Denmark. Icelanders seeking higher education have often looked to Denmark, which for centuries has served as an important educational hub for young and ambitious Icelanders. That has in turn certainly benefited Iceland, as they have brought important knowledge back home to Iceland and, not to forget, elements of the Danish culture and mindset.
2
Photo: Hasse Ferrold
Iceland and Denmark have a special bond and share a long history together. Despite important changes in the relationship of the two countries, our ties with Denmark have remained strong. Iceland was a part of the Danish monarchy for a long time, but it became a republic in 1944, having enjoyed homerule since 1904 and gaining sovereignty in 1918. A year later, in 1919, Denmark opened its Embassy in Reykjavík and on 16 August 1920, Iceland opened the door of its Embassy in Copenhagen for the first time. There’s more on that story in this special supplement.
Council – during times that are both exciting and challenging to serve as chair. In the Arctic region we are witnessing drastic changes taking place at an unprecedented pace with temperatures rising at more than twice the global annual average. This has various effects on the environment, as well as economic and social implications. These factors can both be perceived as challenges and opportunities.
Trade relations between the two countries have for a long time been a significant factor of the Danish-Icelandic relationship. For Icelandic companies that want to establish their products in foreign markets, Denmark is a natural first step as the Danish market is considered an extension of the domestic market. And as trade relations tend to work in two directions, Danish companies have also seen possibilities in the Icelandic market and sought to invest in profitable Icelandic companies.
Biotechnology and innovation are good examples of how innovation can be key for Arctic communities to thrive in a sustainable manner. Through innovation and biotechnological solutions, it is possible to significantly increase the utilisation level of biomass taken out of the ocean. This inspired Iceland to propose a project to the Arctic Council – called the Blue BioEconomy – focusing on innovation and the efficient use of marine biological resources in order to increase the quality and market value of fishery products from Arctic communities. In Iceland it has in fact already resulted in some fisheries companies managing to eliminate biomass-waste from living marine catches completely – thereby achieving the golden standard of 100 percent utilisation of the raw materials. And the products emerging from this are, to name some examples, used for producing pharmaceuticals and skin-healing materials.
Iceland is currently holding the Chairmanship of the Arctic
Green by Iceland is an important platform for Iceland to promote
ICELAND Supplement 2020
its sustainable solutions in order to take an active role in the battle against climate change. Iceland has used renewable energy for over a century and has managed to transition entirely to renewable energy for both electricity production and house heating. This experience with energy transitions and Icelandic expertise in geothermal energy and hydropower is valuable for the world as we move towards securing a lowcarbon, sustainable future together.
In this special supplement published by the Copenhagen Post you can read more about the topics mentioned here as well as other subjects. I hope the special supplement proves to be informative and will inspire you to pay Iceland a visit in the near future. Helga HauksdĂłttir Ambassador of Iceland to the Kingdom of Denmark
Unspoiled nature. Clean water. And green energy. You’ll find it all in Iceland. And thereby also the perfect conditions to grow and produce food of high quality and flavour. With access to green energy and clean natural resources in the Arctic and North Atlantic regions, we constantly challenge the boundaries of traditional food production.
Photos: Hasse Ferrold
Even though Icelandic tourism has been hard hit during the Corona pandemic, the tourism industry has worked hard on keeping its head over water, proactively planning for 2021. Tourism companies have been working on their internal strategies, keeping business relations alive and starting new ones through online trade shows and workshops. Marketing and public relations have focused on maintaining awareness about Iceland as a destination through marketing
campaigns in key markets. Highlighting Iceland’s characteristic as the least densely-populated country in Europe, along with beautiful nature that can be enjoyed without crowds of people, are key components together with the strong national infrastructure and services on offer for visitors all year round. Once the pandemic is over, we are certain that the tourism industry will continue to build up and maintain business relations, making Iceland a desirable destination for both travel agencies and visitors.
HISTORY
Icelandic Embassy:
100 YEARS NOT OUT! From its first ambassador going on to become the country’s inaugural president, to the Occupation and becoming a republic, life has never been dull within its walls By Pétur Hreinsson
The warehouse at Nordalantens Brygge was built between 1766 and 1767
A painting of President Sveinn Björnsson at the Icelandic Embassy in Copenhagen
4
ICELAND Supplement 2020
“Like some sort of a barrack,”recalled Sveinn Björnsson, the first Icelandic ambassador to Denmark, when he described Iceland‘s first embassy in Copenhagen in his memoirs. He wasn’t exactly enamoured by the working facilities.
First steps as sovereign state
The embassy was located at Christiansgade 12, known today as Christians Brygge, not far from where the Royal Library now stands. It opened a century ago in temporary housing built during World War I.
According to the Union Treaty, Denmark was now a foreign state. Iceland thus defined its own foreign policy, which in some cases deviated from Danish policy, but was nonetheless implemented by Denmark. This system of governance lasted until the German Occupation of Denmark in 1940.
At the instigation of Björnsson, who was appointed ambassador on 16 August 1920, the embassy moved its premises to Ny Vestergade 21 (now Dantes Plads) in 1921, where it stood for 82 years until it opened in its current location at Nordatlantens Brygge.
The establishment of the embassy can be traced back to the Danish-Iceland Act of Union in the year of 1918 when Iceland was recognised as a fully independent and sovereign state in a personal union with the Danish king.
With the Union Treaty in place, each state would decide how its interests were to be guarded in relation to the other state. In the summer of 1919, Denmark appointed an ambassador to Iceland and Iceland reciprocated by appointing its own ambassador to Denmark a year later.
These formalities were not without complications, mostly stemming from the close relationship between the two states. Just like today, ambassadors carry formal letters of credence from their heads of states addressed to their counterparts in the host country. Both nations, however, had King Christian X as their head of state. “You cannot cut me in half, even though I am tall,” Björnsson recalled saying about King Christian X in his memoirs. Eventually, the prime ministers took over responsibility for issuing the letters of credence, while the formal appointment of ambassadors remained in the hands of the king. The original embassy building on Christiansgade Some 15,000 people gathered at Reykjavík Harbour to witness the homecoming of the renowned manuscripts Flateyjarbók and Codex Regius
Plenipotentiary to president
In Björnsson’s mind, an ambassadorship in Copenhagen was a good way to make the sovereignty of the Icelandic state known to the world. Even today embassies are still seen to be a vital symbol of the sovereignty of a state – something which cannot be underestimated. Björnsson himself hesitated before he took office due to his busy schedule at home, which simultaneously involved being a member of parliament, sitting on the town council,
Georgía Björnsson, the wife of Sveinn Björnson, was among those who bid farewell to Copenhagen before embarking on the Petsamo to Iceland in 1940
Photo: Arktisk Insitute
HISTORY
The Icelandic Embassy’s current entrance hall at Nordatlantens Brygge served as a two-way tunnel for the truck traffic on Strandgade in the 1950s and 60s
serving on various boards, and his work as a lawyer. But two years became four and Björnsson did not leave Copenhagen until the ambassadorship had to be retracted due to the financial difficulties of the state treasury in 1924. Björnsson, however, was back in Copenhagen as an ambassador two years later where he stayed until 1940 when he received orders to go back to Iceland a mere two weeks after the German Occupation of Denmark. Björnsson eventually surrendered his position as Iceland’s ambassador to Denmark on June 17 1941, when he was made governor of the country, and then three years later he was elected Iceland’s first president upon the inauguration of the Republic of Iceland in 1944. Thus, when Jakob Möller assumed the ambassadorship in 1945, over a quarter of a century had passed with nobody other than Björnsson as ambassador.
A matter of manuscripts
The course of events in the Icelandic Embassy on the eve of the German Occupation of Denmark on 9 April 1940 casts light on the importance of having an ambassador in a foreign country. Some weeks earlier, Björnsson had been in London to discuss trade matters when he became aware of the fact that the military occupation was presumably impending. As a result, the government of Iceland
6
ICELAND Supplement 2020
was ready with a swift response that embodied, among other things, the formal establishment of the Icelandic ForeignAffairs Service, which celebrated its 80th birthday this year on April 10. Another highlight worth mentioning here, which many Icelandic ambassadors in Copenhagen would attend to, was the socalled manuscripts-affair (í. Handritamálið). Over the course of the 20th century, Icelandic documents and manuscripts held in the Arnamagnæan Manuscript Collection and the Royal Library in Copenhagen became the subject of long-standing negotiations between Iceland and Denmark over their return home. The significance of the issue is reflected in the appointment of Sigurður Nordal, Iceland’s best-known scholar in the field of Icelandic medieval literature, as the ambassador in Copenhagen in 1951. The manuscripts-affair attracted enormous attention, culminating on 21 April 1971 when 15.000 people gathered on the docks of Reykjavík to observe when the Danish battleship Vædderen arrived, bringing the renowned manuscripts Flateyjarbók and Codex Regius back home.
Trio who toughed it out
No-one has served as the Icelandic ambassador to Denmark for a longer period of time than President Björnsson, and during his tenure he enjoyed the service of three reliable officials, of whom all stayed for a long time at the embassy.
Jón Krabbe worked on Icelandic affairs in Copenhagen for 55 years and served as the embassy‘s chargé d'affaires from 1924-1926 and 1940-1945. Tryggvi Sveinbjörnsson became a secretary at the office of the Icelandic PM in Copenhagen (d. Islands Ministeriums Kontor), which later became the Embassy of Iceland, where he worked until 1960 as a counsellor. Anna Stephensen worked in the Icelandic Embassy between 1929 and 1972, becoming the first woman to attain diplomatic accreditation. All of them worked at the embassy during World War II, where they were involved in the first major consular services project in the history of the Icelandic foreign service. At that point, a large group of Icelanders were not able to leave Scandinavia, but through a concerted effort, 258 of them were successfully brought home after being picked up by an Icelandic ship in the Arctic town of Petsamo on 15 October 1940. Although Stephensen was reputedly a good choice as ambassador, and often served as the chargé d'affaires, 99 years passed until Icelanders had their first female ambassador in Copenhagen when the incumbent Helga Hauksdóttir was appointed last year.
New home in trade hub
Today the embassy is situated in a 250-yearold warehouse at Nordatlantens Brygge, which was built between 1766 and 1767. For 200 years the area, which is also called
the Greenland Dock (d. Grønlandske Handels Plads), served as a commercial hub for Danes where products from Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands were traded. When the maritime traffic from Greenland was diverted from Copenhagen to Aalborg in Jutland in the 1970s, the appearance of this once vibrant area changed. However, it was animated in November 2003 when it became a cultural centre dedicated to preserving and promoting culture and art from Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands. The idea was first aired in 1995 and eventually came to be realised, not least thanks to the efforts of Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, the world’s first female democratically-elected president.
The Icelandic Embassy was situated at Ny Vestergade 21 (now Dantes Plads) from 1921-2003
Flavour of former age
As well as the Icelandic Embassy, which is located on three floors in the southernmost part of the building, the centre also houses the permanent representations of Greenland and the Faroe Islands. The area’s past was a guiding light during the refurbishment of the area, which allowed the all-encompassing history to sink in. A vivid example is the embassy’s entrance hall, which served as a two-way tunnel for truck traffic in Strandgade during the area’s heyday in the 1950s and 60s. Some parts of the interior space of the embassy – the floors and the wooden joists, are also presumably original – and early in the morning one can still smell the pleasant fragrance of its former role.
Anna Stephensen and Tryggvi Sveinbjörnsson at the Icelandic Embassy on Ny Vestergade (now Dantes Plads)
PURE ARCTIC UNSPOILED NATURE. PURE WATER. GREEN ENERGY. All of this you will find in Iceland. And it provides fantastic conditions for growing and producing high quality food. Pure Arctic challenges the boundaries of traditional thinking in food production by exploiting the Arctic and North Atlantic region's unique access to green energy and pure natural resources. The mission is to produce the purest, healthiest and most delicious foods in a sustainable manner. By combining modern technology and local expertise with renewable energy, unspoiled soil and nature's purest water, Pure Arctic delivers the best to the Nordic cuisine. The food is transported by ship from Iceland to Denmark with a minimal carbon footprint.
100% PESTICIDE-FREE ICELANDIC VEGETABLES Pure Arctic offers fresh vegetables all year round. The vegetables are grown sustainably in greenhouses, which are heated with geothermal energy. The water source, a protected underground aquifer filtered for thousands of years, is inte-
grated into Pure Arctic’s production processes and the growing cycle to produce fresh, pure and crisp produce as nature intended - nice to know when vegetables contain more than 90% water.
PURE ICELANDIC PASTURES CREATE PURE ICELANDIC LAMB Coming from a pure lineage of 1,100 years, Icelandic Lamb grazes freely in wild pastures, acquiring delicate flavors of berries and arctic herbs. This is an integral aspect of Icelandic heritage and a true tradition dating back to the Viking Age. Always looking for newly sprouted grass, the fresh herbs and the pure Icelandic spring water, Icelandic lambs work their way from the lowlands to the highlands, before local farmers summon them. Premium quality Icelandic lamb offers a taste experience beyond compare.
PURE ARCTIC Two of Iceland's major food companies are among the owners of Pure Arctic. Today we deliver food to the Faroe Islands, Greenland, Denmark and Iceland. You can buy the products in Denmark at Nemlig.com. Read more at www.purearctic.dk
Quality manager and co-owner Martin Haugaard Director & Co-founder Jørgen Peter Poulsen Mobile +45 25722615 E-mail: jpp@purearctic.dk ICELAND Supplement 2020
7
ECONOMY
ICELAND 2.0:
Eyes fixed on exciting new era Finding strength in adversity, the transformation of its economy has been rapid, and already the country is reaping the rewards of an exciting new era
By Luke Roberts Whilst a glimpse of the Northern Lights, or the sound of a haunting melody from Sigur Rós or Björk, might be the perceptions most immediately concocted with a mention of Iceland, the island is quickly proving it has a lot more to offer. Far from being an economy dependent on its meagre natural resources, it is quickly realising aspirations in a number of different sectors. In a webinar in mid-November, Bjarni Benediktsson, the former prime minister and current minister of finance and economic affairs, described the emergence of “Iceland 2.0”. It is a project that seems set to successfully weather the pandemic that has battered so much of the globe, with his hopes for Iceland’s future growth suffering barely a scratch.
Fishing in the cold In a matter of centuries, Iceland has gone from being one of the poorest countries in Europe to one of the richest in the world. Fish and aluminium were previously the two pillars of the Icelandic economy but, whilst still important, these have now been surpassed by a number of more lucrative sectors. Between 2010 to 2017, the number of tourists visiting Iceland increased by nearly 400 percent, while technology is an increasingly important export from the highly-educated and connected little country. For Benediktsson it is simply a matter of reaping the benefits of a decade of “prudent policy making”.
8
ICELAND Supplement 2020
”[These improvements] are based on international trade and outward thinking. We have based our living standards on making something of the little we have been given by nature and creating value and doing trade,” Benediktsson explained.
Truly a global country Whilst you might expect a country with such an outward-facing approach to have fared badly during the coronavirus outbreak, that has not been the case. There have been a relatively high number of cases relative to its population, yet the economic impact has been minimal, with no lockdown implemented at any point. Of course, it has had a significant impact on tourist numbers, but domestically consumption has been sustained and the fisheries largely unaffected. For Benediktsson this is testament to the flexibility and strength of both the Icelandic people and the country’s local industries. The economy looked strong going into the pandemic, and hopes are high that it will emerge stronger than ever. Furthermore, the pandemic has been an opportunity for Iceland to flex its scientific muscles. More than half of the island’s population has been screened for infection, and health agencies have successfully tracked every positive case of the virus that has reached its shores. Compared to the UK and US, which have deathrates of around 80 per 100,000, in Iceland this figure stands at just seven.
Looking ahead The signs are already positive. Tourists have returned to the island far quicker than expected, with a planned tourism campaign expected to further bolster their numbers. Attempts to diversify the economy are also proving successful, with returns to growth expected as early as next year, driven largely by a thriving biosimilars sector. The government itself is determined to make a success of it. Investment is getting a boost of 4 percent of GDP over the next five years, along with supplementary business tax incentives to encourage new growth. Before long, the Icelandic economy looks set to be booming, with success-stories already springing up in surprising places. It is perhaps time we re-evaluated what exactly it is that epitomises Iceland.
PEOPLE POWER:
BUSINESS
The sum of all their parts Businesses increasingly looking to Iceland for more reasons than you might think By Luke Roberts What to do in Iceland? Visit the hot springs perhaps, or maybe a trip to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. Certainly, tourists are spoilt for choice in the country’s dark and mysterious landscape. Increasingly, however, businesses are turning to the frosty isle. A string of new initiatives, building on the existing fertile business environment, have helped drive Iceland forward as an appealing option for businesses looking to expand.
A curious culture
Small and isolated, Iceland is one of Europe’s most unique countries along every metric. It has a relatively young and highly educated population – 42 percent of those aged 25 to 64 have received some kind of post-secondary education. Often educated abroad, the country’s geographic isolation obscures a country well integrated in international networks. It is networks like these that have encouraged a great influx of foreign labour, while also incentivising a particularly Icelandic way of working. The country clocks the longest working-week in Europe: an average of 45 hours a week. However, this is balanced by high equality for salaries and a legal minimum of 24 days holiday a year.
On the up
Adding to this, high levels of equality and labour force participation make for a motivated and determined people, and it pays dividends. A strong union presence partnered with significant economic growth have meant substantial wage increases in recent years. It is a workforce on the up, reaping the spoils of decades of hard work. Yet Icelanders are equally proud of their easygoing nature. It is the people that make Iceland, and their focus on equality and sustainability put them way ahead of the curve. In many Nothing to worry about ways it feels as though modernity has reached Despite not being a part of the EU, Iceland’s the island quicker than most – a prospect that open, modern, high-income economy is part of the European Economic Area as many businesses aspire to. well as being signed up to the Schengen agreement. Economically it prides itself Health of another kind These recent successes have been supported on being extremely low-risk – selling itself by a digitally healthy population. The 2020 instead as an ideal springboard for tariff-free UN e-Government Survey identified Iceland access to the EU market. as one of the world’s strongest performers in the realm of quality and comprehensive Iceland is also one of the safest countries online services, a strong telecommunications in the world. The Global Peace Index has infrastructure and a healthy human capacity. crowned the island the safest country in the world every year since 2008. Icelanders The Information Society Taskforce is typically leave their doors unlocked and responsible for this cutting-edge digital windows open – weather permitting! governance. Its integrated, citizen-focused approach has put Iceland on the digital map, Sweetens the deal making it one of the easiest countries in the If all that wasn’t enough, a number of recent world for new and existing businesses to get initiatives have been introduced to further the support they need. lure businesses north. Foreign experts, where applicable, are able to avoid paying any tax at all on 25 percent of their pay. In a country this expensive, it is certainly a welcome bonus. Iceland is eager to attract foreign expertise – both individuals and businesses – and as a result there are many monetary and cultural offerings on the table. Overall, however, doing business in Iceland is about the people, and Iceland’s people are as unique as its landscape. Publisher: CPH POST • Editor: Hans Hermansen Journalists: Ben Hamilton, Luke Roberts, Helen Jones, Pétur Hreinsson • Layout: CPH POST Info: hans@cphpost.dk • Tel: +45 2420 2411 ICELAND Supplement 2020
9
LIFE SCIENCES
THE MICRO-CREATURES
from the Blue Lagoon– and more
By Luke Roberts
Initially you might be surprised to learn that life sciences is a thriving sector in Iceland, but dig a little deeper and you will find it has fertile soil Life sciences is a sector most commonly associated with the US or perhaps Iceland’s Nordic neighbours. In recent years, however, the small and isolated island has started to make a splash. Armed with a highly-educated population with an outlook motivated by sustainability and health, the sector is one that aligns well with the country. Now, a number of organisations in particular are catching the eye.
New life in the lagoon
Listed by National Geographic as one of the world’s 25 natural wonders, the Blue Lagoon is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike. For years bathers have soaked in warm bright blue waters famed for their healing qualities. For as many years, scientists have puzzled over their contents and their potential uses. Multiple clinical studies have confirmed the beneficial effects the water has on psoriatic skin, and since 1994 the Blue Lagoon Medical Clinic has been offering a natural treatment worldwide. Three decades of research has revealed that high silica levels, resulting from its unique subterranean origin, support a form of algae beneficial to the skin. The waters are now known to strengthen the skin’s barrier function, preserve collagen stores, and induce collagen synthesis. This research is the foundation upon which the Blue Lagoon skincare products are developed.
Something fishy
Fish have long been a staple of the Icelandic economy – far longer, even, than the Blue Lagoon has been around. Now, however new and exciting uses for the fish are being found. Damaged skin, caused by burns or diabetes, has long been treated with grafts from animals such as pigs. Kerecis is
10
ICELAND Supplement 2020
looking to change this by turning to fish More life as an alternative. Life sciences, as is clear from its very Fish skin is naturally high in omega 3, and name, stands at the intersection when grafted onto damaged human between science and nature – tissue nudges the body’s cells into action, a meeting point well-suited to converting into living human tissue. Iceland’s geography and outlook. Compared to pig skin, Kerecis’ alternative With a unique environment and works quicker, with a lower risk of disease a highly-educated population, it transfer, and at a lower cost – thereby is less surprising than it might first appear that the sector has taken beneficial to clinician and patient alike. hold here.
A farmer’s nightmare
It is no secret that Iceland is not a country that any budding farmer would look to set up their business, but nor is it a secret that adversity breeds innovation. ORF Genetics – a plant biotechnology company pioneering the development and production of proteins derived from barley – is one such innovative outcome: Grown at the foot of a volcano and utilising geologically filtered water, ORF is putting Iceland’s unique landscape to use in the growing of its barley. The plant is in turn being used to develop award-winning skincare products as well as products supporting growth in cultured meat.
Still, life sciences is a relatively new arrival in Iceland, having only really arrived in the late 1990s. The speed of its development as a sector, and the success it has already achieved, make for a positive outlook. In Iceland, life sciences certainly has a healthy future.
R&D
ICELANDIC INNOVATION: creatively inclined The country has spent years encouraging out-of-the-box thinking in business – a focus that is starting to pay off By Luke Roberts With over a hundred words for wind, you could certainly describe the Icelandic language as innovative, but its business sector is quickly catching up. Individuals and firms are quickly being recognised on the global stage for their pioneering contributions to a diversity of sectors, and it is something that Iceland itself is eager to celebrate.
From the very top One way in which Iceland supports an innovative environment is through direct financial support. The New Business Venture Fund (NSA) is a venture capital investor owned by the Icelandic state that identifies and assists pioneering firms showing promise in their respective fields. In addition, Innovation Center Iceland (ICI)
– an initiative from the Ministry of Industry and Innovation – provides technological consulting and support for entrepreneurs and business. It offers free guidance to individuals and small businesses, driven by the belief that “innovation is the prerequisite for diversity in the Icelandic economy”.
Something shiny too
Both the NSA and the ICI are also responsible for organising and presenting the Icelandic Innovation Award alongside Promote Iceland and Rannís, the Icelandic Center for Research, which funds and promotes scientific research in the country. It has been granted annually since 1994. The award recognises pioneering Icelandic companies and their role in supporting and adding value to the Icelandic economy. The winners are presented with a statue of Freyr, the
A NORTH ATLANTIC CENTRE OF CONTEMPORARY ART AND CULTURE IN COPENHAGEN
Nordic god of fertility and vegetation – a clear sign that Iceland’s innovators are considered fundamental to the country’s future.
In control This year’s winner was Controlant, an emergent power in digital supply chain visibility solutions. It is a company focused on improving the supply-chain efficiency of leading companies in a number of sectors through its cutting-edge technology. “We are honored to receive the 2020 Icelandic Innovation Award and are proud of all of the hard work of our teams in making Controlant solutions indispensable to our customers and to our industry by increasing transparency and collaboration throughout the supply chain, while reducing waste,” said its cofounder and CEO, Gisli Herjolfsson.
Since 2003, Nordatlantens Brygge (The North Atlantic House) has been bringing the rich culture of the North Atlantic countries to wide audiences at its venue on Strandgade in Christianshavn, Copenhagen. As well as hosting exhibitions dedicated to leading Icelandic, Greenlandic and Faroese artists, the house holds regular events, lectures and debates covering a wide cultural spectrum, including film, literature and crafts. This winter, the house has the critically acclaimed exhibition ‘Conversations about Fog – Art from the Faroe Islands in the 21st century’, which features a generous selection of works by a wide range of artists. LARGE-SCALED NERVESCAPE Opening on March 27, the large-scale installation ‘Nervescape IX’ will take over the house. The art installation is constructed entirely out of multicoloured synthetic hair hanging from floor to ceiling in detailed configurations by the New York-based Icelandic and internationally-renowned artist Shoplifter (aka Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir).
“The work is partly inspired by Shoplifter´s long interest in neuroscience and brain research,” enthused Nordatlantens Brygge director Karin Elsbudóttir. “In the work, tangles of hair resemble nerve cells in their organic structure, but here the artist wants to impact our synapses in a more direct sense: She believes that when we are exposed to vibrant colours, it triggers the release of serotonin in the brain, making us happy.”
ENVIRONMENT
GREEN BY NATURE
As a producer of renewable energy for over a century, Iceland has set itself a target of carbon-neutrality by 2040. The new initiative, Green by Iceland, will make this a reality By Helen Jones
When it comes to renewable energy, Iceland is a world leader – and it’s not by chance.
Photos: Ragnar Th Sigurdsso
From the geothermally-heated hot pools of Reyjkjavík, to the dramatic fjords, peninsulas and icy stretches of glacier illuminated under the Northern Lights, Iceland has an intimate relationship with its landscape, and it’s one that needs to be preserved.
12
That goal has been taken up by Green by Iceland, a new initiative that aims to pioneer climate change solutions by providing the world with Icelandic technology and expertise. Iceland is unique with over 100 years of experience in providing sustainable energy, pushed on by huge successes in hydro and geothermal power. Today, Iceland relies on 100 percent renewable energy for both electricity production and househeating needs – and Green by Iceland seeks to bring that technology to the world. Iceland is working to become carbon-neutral by 2040: a goal that even surpasses the Paris agreement ICELAND Supplement 2020
pledge. With renewed commitments to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals, ensuring a greener future for Icelanders, the rich history of the country – its landscape, technology and expertise – tells a story that could change the way we power our world.
The world of Carbon Capture
New research shows that even if mankind stopped producing greenhouse gases today, the earth would still continue to warm – with glaciers and the permafrost melting before our eyes. This means that in order to combat climate change we need to do more than just lower CO2 production – we need to reduce the amount of carbon in the system. Step in, CCUS. That’s Carbon Capture, Utilisation and Storage, which involves taking carbon directly from industrial processes and capturing it. The Icelandic company Carbfix has led a revolution in this technology of binding carbon emissions into stone. Such pioneering technology will be essential for energy-
dependent industries worldwide to control their emissions. This has drawn interest from more companies abroad and, together with the Swiss company Climeworks, Carbfix is testing whether their technologies could work together to draw carbon from the atmosphere and bind it in stone. Another interesting company is Carbon Recycling International with its innovations in the field of ETL (Emissions to Liquids) technology, which turns CO2 into fuel to power transport by producing renewable methanol.
Recent geothermal district heating projects in Poland and China, for example, have shown it’s possible to replace coal with geothermal heating and see dramatic reductions in carbon emissions and environmental benefits as a result. Hydropower will be an increasingly important way to produce electricity worldwide, and Icelandic experts advise companies on the construction of new, sustainable hydro dams and the maintenance of older dams. Hydropower projects in Greenland are especially exciting as they offer a way for an energy transition away from oil and fossil fuels towards sustainable energy. In Iceland, 70 percent of electricity is produced from hydropower.
Invest in a sustainable future
From December 2020, Green by Iceland is launching a new site to put people and countries alike in touch with sustainable solutions. There, you’ll find a database of Icelandic businesses ready to offer services in renewable energy or circular solutions to countries across the world: from Denmark to Indonesia. Look around the globe – the future’s looking greener!
From beneath our feet Drawing power from the heat of the earth or the forces of water can sound like a kind of alchemy, but it’s been a reality in Iceland for decades. Geothermal district heating was pioneered in Iceland over 90 years ago, and today 90 percent of Icelandic houses rely on geothermal energy for heating, with the remaining 10 percent heated by electricity. With decades of experience in harnessing the power of the land around them,
Icelandic companies are able to offer world-class solutions in utilising geothermal power – from feasibility studies, to drilling and transmission. The estimated savings of using geothermal energy for district heating instead of oil in Iceland adds up to 2 million tonnes of CO2 emissions per year. Iceland shows that it’s possible to replace fossil fuels with renewable energy and, in doing so, ensure the future of the economy. ICELAND Supplement 2020
13
CULTURE
GLACIER MINTED: chipping in to help
By Ben Hamilton
Not only does the original 'Land of Fire and Ice' part-finance international film shoots, but it helps producers to access its extraordinary landscapes and crazily creative people “We can’t afford the Moon.”
A) MONSTERS OF MUSIC
“What? Even with Elon Musk onboard?”
The Iceland Airwaves Festival in midNovember once again provided a reminder of the vibrancy of the strong music scene – particularly in Greater Reykjavik, the heartbeat of so many major Icelandic acts.
“No. We’ll have to look for an alternative lunar surface – one that can double for a spooky, seemingly uninhabited planet with a snowy wilderness, volcanic rocks and beaches, and the kind of crazy weather where a shower of iron filings wouldn’t look out of place.”
Månen’s gone to Iceland Iceland has all this and more, so it’s no wonder its people live in awe of their surroundings. Whether it’s delaying European air traffic for a week, or providing vistas of unimaginable magnificence, it’s a reminder that nature should always come first. It’s no surprise, therefore, to learn that so many outdoor movie and TV scenes have been shot there.
Icelandic tax incentive Beyond the amazing locations, producers take advantage of tax incentives to shoot in Iceland that allow them to be reimbursed for 25 percent of their costs. Available since 2001, the legislation aims "to enhance domestic culture and promote the history and nature of Iceland". The incentive has played a large role in attracting some of the biggest players in world cinema and television, including the producers of 'Game of Thrones' and the Marvel Universe franchise.
Mountains of talent While Iceland isn’t well known for its actors – Hafþór Júlíus Björnsson, the Mountain in 'Game of Thrones', is as big as they get (literally too) – the same can’t be said of its musicians, whose creativity knows no bounds. Again, their environment is key to the originality that has endeared them to millions: from Bjork, quite possibly the most unique singer of our times, to Sigur Ros, one of the most acclaimed bands of the last decade. Throw two major award-winning composers into the pot and the result is an output any country would be proud of – not least one with a population of less than 400,000.
14
ICELAND Supplement 2020
Bjork, along with the bands Sigur Ros and Of Monsters and Men, were all reared in the capital of a nation whose psyche is so inextricably entwined with its environment that "nature is close to replacing language as a symbol of Icelandicness", according to historian Guðmundur Hálfdanarson. According to a 2014 Guardian feature, there’s nothing Bjork likes better than walking in the company of shifting tectonic plates, plunging waterfalls and lava fields – the product of her upbringing by a mother who went on hunger strike in 2002 to protest against the building of a power plant in the Icelandic wilderness. Classical composers such as Hildur Guðnadóttir, a recent Oscar winner for Joker, and her sadly deceased and sometime collaborator, Jóhann Jóhannsson (Golden Globe for The 'Theory of Everything'), also credit the effect their home environment had on their unique sound.
C B
B) BLACK SANDS It's hard to forget the black beaches that saw so much bloodshed in Clint Eastwood’s WWII films ‘Flags of Our Fathers’ and ‘Letters from Iwo Jima’. Look no further than Sandvik, which is located just south of the capital region
D
D) JA JA DING DONG! The impact of Will Ferrell’s ‘Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga’, an extraordinarily popular Netflix film released in June, has not been felt due to the Coronavirus Crisis.
07
C) AR YA READY FOR THIS?
E) PEAKED AT THE START
Do you remember when The Hound took on Brienne of Tarth on the mountainside and you winced at the thought of taking a tumble. Or when Arya and her aforementioned chaperone turned up at the Bloody Gate seeking admission to The Vale? Well, both can be found in reasonable distance of one another just north of the Thingvallavatn lake in the whereabouts of the Thingvellir National Park.
Most concur that the best scene in Ridley Scott’s 'Alien' prequel 'Prometheus' is the opening one shot at the Dettifoss Waterfall. The nearby Hekla volcano also provided some impressive backdrops, and somewhere around here Game of Thrones’ very own Jon Snow had sex with Ygritte in a cave!
But once the word resumes travelling, you can be assured that tens of thousands will be intrigued to visit the charming seaside port of Húsavík on the north coast of the island, the main setting for the film. The Icelandic government paid a quarter of the $3.6 million production costs, but it will surely prove to be money well spent when the hordes descend on the town’s harbour, bars, church and featured bus stop. Join the fishing village’s 2,500 inhabitants in a singalong of their favourite song, which has now been embraced by the whole country. All together now: "Ja Ja Ding Dong”.
F) ICE CAPS TO MARVEL AT The cliffs, snow-capped mountains and frozen lakes found in the vicinity of Vik on the south coast were the stars of the show in the opening moments of Marvel film ‘Captain America: Civil War’. Meanwhile, just up the road, sister film ‘Thor: The Dark World’ had a long shoot near Skogafoss, the waterfall where Jon Snow made out with Daenerys – a classier venue than the cave he frequented with Ygritte, it has to be said!
G) STELLAR LANDSCAPES It’s scarcely believable that the alien landscape in ‘Interstellar’ is earthly, but believe it, because you’ll find it at Svinafellsjokull in the southeast of the island.
ICELAND Supplement 2020
15
TOURISM
Seasons like day and night An untamed snowy wilderness in winter, a volcanic panorama of beauty in summer – Iceland has the most unique landscapes in the world, and it is always bustling with activity By Ben Hamilton
You might have seen this year’s ‘Let it out’ campaign at lookslikeyouneediceland.com, which encourages potential holiday-makers, frustrated at their coronavirus-ravaged lives, to let out a scream in the comforting solitude of the Icelandic wilderness. Yes, it really is that quiet and peaceful – the perfect environment for all manner of activities.
ESSENTIALLY ROCKY A quick glance at a map of Iceland will confirm what you’ve probably already heard: it’s very rocky. The island’s numerous volcanoes and glaciers have carved out the most outstanding landscapes known to mankind. And while it’s advised you take a tour to pursue most activities, most of Iceland is accessible, so the possibility for exploring is infinite.
SUNNY IN SUMMER For such a northerly country, the weather is not particularly warm. On rare days in the summer, the temperature might hit the low to mid 20s, but it’s reasonably sunny. From April to August, Iceland averages over five hours of sunshine a day. But nobody travels there for a suntan. This is a trip where the great outdoors rules supreme, and most of the 2 to 2.5 million annual overnight stays are made with this in mind.
BOUNCING BACK! Read on for our selection of the most popular activities pursued by tourists in Iceland during the summer and winter. Bouncing back from the COVID-19 disaster that decimated visitor numbers in 2020, Iceland is hopeful next year will deliver millions in pursuit of what is one of the world’s most unique travelling experiences.
16
ICELAND Supplement 2020
WINTER TOP FIVE
from the capital, Myrdalsjokull, which offers a similar experience, is much closer.
Bask in the Northern Lights
Crampons your style
Iceland is one of the premier locations in the world for enjoying Aurora Borealis, which are most visible between September and April. Nobody forgets the first time they witness this beautiful luminous green display light up the winter sky, which is caused when solar particles interact with Earth's magnetic field. Some hotels offer a wake-up service should they suddenly become visible as nobody wants to return south without seeing them.
As well as Vatnajökull, the Langjökull, Hofsjökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers all offer glacier hiking opportunities, of which Sólheimajökull, which is a part of the Mýrdalsjökull Glacier, is probably the most accessible. Meanwhile, both the Sólheimajökull and Svínafellsjökull glaciers in the south of Iceland are prime locations for ice climbing all year round. From the capital, most tours are generally a day long and cater to all abilities. Crampons and ice axes are provided.
TOP TIP: Forget Instagram and live the moment!
TOP TIP: Waterproof everything!
Iceland’s Route 66
Whale of a time
You'll need at least two weeks to navigate the island by road and, even then, most of the routes in the Highlands will be closed to anything but super-jeep tours. If you're brave enough to set out on your own, then opt for the Ring Road, which will take you around the perimeter, but rarely close to the actual sea. It is well cared for, but don't be surprised if you take a detour and find yourself on a gravel path full of potholes, or unable to travel due to bad weather.
Daily whale-watching tours depart from Reykjavík and locations along the north and west coasts all year long to take advantage of the many large marine mammals congregating along the coastline for feeding. Some 20 species of whale can be seen, as well as white-beaked dolphins, harbour porpoises, seals and basking sharks.
TOP TIP: A 4x4 vehicle is essential in the Highlands.
Unique caves every year Every winter ice caves form in Vatnajökull, Iceland and Europe’s biggest glacier, before melting and collapsing in the spring. Accessible from November to March, the hues of blue on display are outstanding. TOP TIP: While Vatnajokull is six hours' drive
TOP TIP: Head to a quiet fishing village like Húsavík to find your very own Quint.
SUMMER TOP FIVE All walks of life Over half of the island is 400 metres above sea level, affording hikers majestic views of mountains, volcanoes, glaciers, lava fields, caves, lakes, fjords, hot springs and black sand. Most of these are available on the popular Laugavegur trail, which is best taken between mid-June and midSeptember. TOP TIP: Book a mountain hut and make it a two-day excursion.
Along for the ride Whether it’s by horse, bicycle or motorised vehicle, there are lots of options for traversing Iceland at speed. Many opt to mount one of the famous Icelandic horses (see page 18). Tours, of which many are handily located close to Reykjavik, cater to all levels of experience. Some last hours, while others can exceed a week! The most popular cycling option is the Ring Road across the country, while mountain bikers tend to opt for the trail through Kjölur. Be warned – it can get tricky! Shock absorbers and company are advised, and anticipate rain. Finally, for those who prefer an onboard motor, Iceland is well stocked with quad bikes, snowmobiles, buggies, jeeps, snow-cats and jetskis. TOP TIP: You’ll appreciate the extra grip of a motorised vehicle when you’re speeding across a glacier.
Alright geyser!
No trip to Iceland is complete without witnessing an eruption of steaming hot water – the Strokkur Geyser east of Reykjavík spurts out a jet every 5–8 minutes to a height of some 30 metres – and bathing in geothermally heated water. Most parts of the country have access to thermal water and recently-built outdoor, exclusive spas with amazing views over the unique landscape. The capital region has 17 public swimming pools (as well as its own geo-thermal beach!), of which many are outdoors and come with a spa, sauna and steam bath. With so much luxuriating, it’s no wonder Iceland has never won an Olympic medal in the pool. The most famous spa is the Blue Lagoon, which is located in a lava field on the Reykjanes Peninsula. TOP TIP: Take a dip in one of the four thermal pools used since medieval times.
You and the volcano
Bird’s eye view
Excuse the crudity of this explanation, but imagine a volcano is spewing up the contents of your stomach. Well, the stomach is the magma chamber, and normally they collapse after an eruption, but in the Thríhnúkagígur Crater, following an eruption some 4,000 years ago, one stands in its entirety. It can be viewed by a cable lift with a sheer drop of 120 metres.
Encounter the world’s largest colony of puffins on the Westman Islands. Alternatively, Látrabjarg in the Westfjords has been described as the planet’s largest bird cliff, providing a home to the largest population of razorbills. Other species that make Iceland their home include the Arctic tern, harlequin duck and barrow's goldeneye, along with all manner of eiders, waders and gannets.
TOP TIP: Don’t look down.
TOP TIP: Don’t wander off the marked trails at the breeding grounds if you don’t want to walk on egg-shells! ICELAND Supplement 2020
17
EVENT
World Cup for horses 2021 promises to be a massive year for the Danish Icelandic Horse Association and its plans to host two major international events By Ben Hamilton You’re aware horses can walk, trot, canter and gallop – in that order of speed before you’re taken for an unscheduled visit to hospital – but did you know there are names for other modes of movement?
Denmark recognised Iceland as a fully sovereign and independent state on 1 December 2018, the Icelandic horses have symbolised Danish-Icelandic relations, which he called a “friendship”.
Well, Icelandic horses are world famous for their unique gaits: the ‘skeið’ flying pace, which looks like a pantomime horse running, and the more sedate 'tölt' – a four-beat lateral gait.
“The qualities we see in the Icelandic horses – so calm, kind, solid – are also a fitting description of our relationship,” Hansen agreed. “We’ve got to know each other well over the centuries and have a very good co-operation.”
AS RIDDEN BY THE HOUND Icelandic horses – instantly recognisable for the thick, shaggy coats that help them see off the worst weather an Icelandic winter can throw at them – stand apart from their European counterparts thanks to a geographical isolation that lasted over 1,000 years. But unlike shire horses, for example, they are not thickset in appearance. Instead, they have quite a small stature, which made ‘The Hound’ look gigantic when he rode one in ‘Game of Thrones’. They are also renowned for being above average for being clever, gentle and curious – and generally being versatile.
HISTORIC RIDE On Sunday 21 October 2018, the Danish minister for Nordic co-operation, Eva Kjer Hansen, and Sigurður Ingi Jóhannsson, the Icelandic chairman of the Progressive Party (Framsóknarflokkurinn) rode Icelandic horses from Copenhagen’s Christiansborg Ridebaneand to Nordatlantens Brygge in Christianshavn to mark the upcoming 100-year anniversary of the country’s sovereignty. According to Jóhannsson on that day, and pretty much every day since
18
ICELAND Supplement 2020
HUGE MEMBERSHIP Nothing embodies this spirit of togetherness better than the Danish Icelandic Horse Association (DIHA). Not only is it Denmark’s largest horse breeding association in terms of member numbers (around 8,000), but in 2013 it overtook Danish Warmblood to become the country’s leading breeder in terms of new-births. When the International Federation of Icelandic Horse Associations was established in 1969, Denmark and Iceland were two of the founding members alongside Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, and Switzerland
WORLD WILL BE WATCHING Icelandic horses are so popular in Denmark (around 42,000 at the last count) that Herning is scheduled to host next year’s world championships from August 1-8, where competitors from 21 countries will be present. The World Championships for Icelandic Horses, which is held biennially, includes competitions for riding, pace races and breeding. Make no mistake, this is going to be a
massive event and one of two planned for Herning next year. The principal organiser, Hestar Event, is also scheduled to host the Icehorse Festival, the world's largest indoor competition, in March.
IN SAFE HANDS DIHA chair Mie Trolle is delighted to have them onboard for what will be a special year for Icelandic horses in Denmark. “I have great confidence that Hestar Event are the right people to take on the task,” she told islandshest.dk. “It is great that they have the courage to take on the responsibility. I'm sure it's going to be good!”
INTERVIEW
Icelandic literature’s ambassador Closing in on 100 books, nobody’s more familiar with the linguistic similarities than the translator Erik Skyum Nielsen By Ben Hamilton Erik Skyum Nielsen is known as the ambassador for Icelandic literature in Denmark. Since 1981, the Dane has translated almost 100 Icelandic works, including all of Einar Mar Gudmundsson's collected works. Award-winning author As the recipient of the Nordic Translators Prize, there are few people alive better equipped to share insights on the crossovers between Danish and Icelandic. Last year, he found time to publish his own book, ‘Iceland's Literary Miracle’, so who better to interview for this special edition. What is Icelandic literature’s appeal? Its ability to connect present and past, its use of oral tradition in writing, its awareness of the close relations of man and nature, and its willingness to cross the border between different types of reality Icelanders write more books per capita than any other nation: almost one in ten have had a book published. Where does their compulsion to write come from? From their awareness of the presence of a responsive audience, and from their proudness of Icelandic language and culture. Why is Icelandic literature so popular with Danish readers? Mainly because of the elements that I mentioned above. One might add that many Danish readers admire the courage with which Icelandic novelists and short story writers follow their characters into the dark realms of the human spirit. Likewise, Danish readers like to be a bit uncertain as to whether an Icelandic narrative intends to make them laugh or cry. What is the biggest challenge you face when translating from Icelandic into Danish? Presumably they’ve got more words for snow, for example? The hardest challenge lies in the fact that modern Icelandic and present-day Danish share a huge number of words with a common Old Norse origin. If I translate without being aware of the speed with which Danish has left its Nordic roots - importing words from German, French, English and even Latin - I tend to use an artificial Danish resembling a linguistic museum.
Erik Skyum Nielsen (left) at an event organised by Icelandic ambassador Helga Hauksdóttir (centre)
Can you give us an example of a translation problem that you had to solve, and how you managed it? When translating ‘Angels of the Universe’ by Einar Már Gudmundsson I deliberately made an error in order to let my expression play on older Bible translations into both Icelandic and Danish. And when translating ‘Grámosinn glóir’ by Thor Vilhjálmsson I had to read Danish symbolist poetry to find something resembling the mode of expression cultivated by the novel’s protagonist Einar Benediktsson. Do you ever find yourself wishing you could change something, and have you ever asked an author for leeway to enable you to render your best possible work? Yes, sometimes you have to make use of the principle of translator’s license to compensate: for instance, to represent a pun that resists direct transformation from Icelandic into my own language. You’re well known for translating all of Einar Mar Gudmundsson's books, of which many are poetry collections. Did that pose an extra challenge? No, but it was great fun both in the early 1980s and recently. What’s the greatest compliment you’ve received from one of the authors? When I was told the novel was much better in Danish than the original language, or when another author told me that I was her favorite translator.
What do you personally love about translating? I love the feeling of moving closer to the end of a novel. I like the intimacy and concentration connected to translating a short story. And often, translating poetry recalls the plays of my childhood. Are there any genres you won’t touch? Detective stories and science fiction. You’ve written a few factual books, including ‘Iceland's Literary Miracle’ in which you introduce a selection of the country’s best authors, but have you ever written your own fiction? No. What Icelandic book would you recommend to somebody who’s never read one before? ‘Sjálfstætt folk’ by Halldór Laxness. How about a top five? ‘Bréf til Láru’ by Thórbergur Thórdarson. ‘Gerpla’ by Halldór Laxness. ‘Angels of the Universe’ by Einar Már Gudmundsson.‘Milli trjánna’by Gyrdir Elíasson. and ‘Ör’ by Audur Ava Ólafsdóttir. Regardless of language, what’s your favourite book? The Holy Bible. And what is your favourite translation? The Danish poet Thorkild Bjørnvig’s translations of Rainer Maria Rilke’s poetry. ICELAND Supplement 2020
19