PHOTOS: REX FEATURES
Billy Tannery The Sneaker
two world wars, four British monarchs, 35 prime ministers, joining forces with Europe and countless recessions,’ says brand director James Fox, married to Philippa Jones (fifth generation). Since the shoes are made entirely in the UK, and are relatively sustainable, flying in the face of fast fashion, Fox is optimistic they’ll survive Brexit and consumer confidence will remain high. Perhaps it also helps that one of their champions is another of Britain’s global icons: Daniel Craig, aka James Bond. ‘Our relationship with Daniel Craig has been a great success story for the company,’ says Fox. ‘The beauty is that it was totally organic, as if he were just a normal Saturday customer coming in to buy his trusty pair of suede Chukka boots. We will forever be thankful to him for demanding to wear Crockett & Jones on set.’ Another five-generation brand that’s been boosted by media association is Cheaney Shoes (cheaney.co.uk), which has been supplying its vintage styles, including the Brixworth ankle boot, black King Derby boot and Edwin two-tone Oxford brogues, to the hit BBC series Peaky Blinders. The latter, so-called ‘co-respondent’ shoes, were originally deemed too loud for British gentlemen, but slowly became fashionable through jazz music and gangster movies and are now bang on trend (and socially acceptable). Embracing contemporary trends while still building on tradition is the key challenge for the luxury shoe market. Church’s recently took Church's Shanghai glacé a step towards sports loafer luxe, launching beautifully
LEFT: Edward Green Cranleigh boot RIGHT: Tricker’s 190 Tramping boot
Loake Sprint sneaker
crafted sneakers such as its Shanghai glacé calf and nubuck numbers (church-footwear.com). And innovative new British goat leather brand Billy Tannery (billytannery.co.uk) has teamed up with another fifth generation shoemaker, Crown Northampton, to offer The Sneaker, in madeto-order leather, customised with a choice of white, black or gum soles, and offering a resoling service in line with its sustainable ethos. Loake offers richly patinated, hand-painted Sprint leather sneakers (loake.co.uk), while John Lobb has translated its classic boot silhouette into the Howell suede plimsoll, which John Lobb Howell features its triple palladium suede plimsoll buckles (johnlobb.com). Tricker’s marks its 190th anniversary with a commemorative edition of its classic country Tramping Boot, each pair painstakingly handmade over 260 individual stages (trickers.com). And Edward Green’s new rugged field boot, the Cranleigh, was inspired by its hand-sewn Dover and offers a choice of black, dark brown, burgundy or mink suede (edwardgreen.com). And while Crockett & Jones has yet to enter the sneaker market or embrace e-tailing, it is poised to open its 14th store in Europe, and its second in New York. ‘We have been slow off the mark,’ Fox admits, ‘but not because we are Luddites, mainly because we have simply been too busy!’ You can’t say fairer than that. n November 2019 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 83
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