Less is more! This is the best way to summarise Stéphane and his wines
Alongside the church in Morey-Saint-Denis lies the modest cellar of Domaine Stéphane Magnien Here, he crafts elegant and perfumed wines from 4 5 hectares of vines, planted across the communes of Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin.
Stéphane took over the management of the family estate in 2008 from his father and now represents the 5 generation to make wine since the late 1890s. He is a quiet and reserved man, but his passion for the land and its wines is palpable. During my annual visit in March, the discussions invariably return to understanding the consequences of one’s actions and that winegrowers are merely custodians of the land for the next generation th
Stéphane works in a very natural way; his vines have never seen pesticides or chemical products, and most of the vineyard work is manual For a long time, he ploughed with a horse like his ancestors However, he now uses a light tractor, except in Monts Luisants, where the gradient is too steep
In the winery, Stéphane strikes a balance across the expression of terroir, the stamp of the vintage and the pleasure for the drinker
Fermentation is natural with indigenous yeasts In 2023, the crop was fully destemmed except for 20% of the cuvée Petites Noix Temperatures are controlled to avoid too much extraction, and when needed, he employs gentle remontage and pigeage (pump over & punch down). Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, then further ageing in French Oak with an average of 15% new oak, whereas the grands crus see 25%-30% new oak, depending on the vintage.
In 2024, he experimented with two egg-shaped fermenters made of resin that were manufactured in Bordeaux These new vessels replicate the porosity of seasoned barrels, allowing microoxygenation, without the added flavours of oak or the risk of bacterial contamination, a risk if barrels are not thoroughly cleaned. It also has other benefits in a holistic approach.
His 2023s are delicious, and the challenges of the growing season were not evident in the final product. Stéphane describes 2023 as a generous and high-quality harvest, comparable with 2022, although slightly more overt and seductive in its youth. The fruit aromas are gourmand. His only heartbreaking moment was having to drop fruit to reduce the yield. The second time in just two weeks before harvest He is happy with his 2023, and after tasting, I can say they have ample flesh and structure!
With an annual production of about 23,000 bottles, the domaine is a modest size Stéphane has kept his prices largely unchanged since we started representing him exclusively in Hong Kong and Singapore some seven years ago The domaine remains relatively unknown, a blessing for discerning wine lovers However, more and more critics are giving top scores to his wines Get some of these gems in your collection They are gorgeous wines
THE 2023 VINTAGE
COTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS ‘PURE PINOT’
This is a 0 5 hectare holding, producing a pleasantly juicy, herbaceous, early drinking style The plot is in the MoreySaint-Denis village appellation This is 100% Pinot Noir, as you guessed from the name Dark and gravelly, with an attractive crunch and brightness to the blackberry fruit Half the production is aged in old oak, half in stainless steel Bottled in July 2024
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 16 5-17
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2025 – 2029
£95/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS VIEILLES VIGNES
The vines here are nearly 60 years old, planted on clay-heavy soils. This comes from two parcels, on either side of the Route Nationale. A briny and bitter cherried nose leads into a palate of crisp acidity and bright dark berry fruit. This will benefit from a couple of years in bottle, but shows good promise.
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 17
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2026 – 2032
£230/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES SENTIERS
This 0 42 hectare holding is 100m below Bonnes-Mares The vines are over 60 years old on average Wild blue fruit, with violets and roses, and some of that silky forest fruit of Bonnes Mares Excellent potential here
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS GRAINS FINS
This is made from two gravelly limestone parcels on the Chambolle side of the appellation Both parcels are located towards the bottom of the slope near the road, in the lieu-dit Les Crais Gillon The vines are 14-16 years old Crunchy, fresh and tense, with a good focus and purity of raspberry fruit
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 17
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2026 – 2031
£210/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES ATHETS
The domaine’s 0 26 ha holding in Les Athets, at the bottom of the village, was planted in 1902 and 1903, before the creation of the appellation system. Around 15% of the original plantings remain. Offering bright, crunchy raspberry fruit, this is joyful and upbeat, with a touch of blueberry and liquorice.
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 16.5-17
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2026 – 2031
£285/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 17-17.5
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2026 – 2031
£430/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES MONTS LUISANTS
This comes from a tiny parcel of just 0 135 hectares high on the slope, above Clos de la Roche As Stéphane explained, the bedrock is cool and light, with thin sandy soils above A wine of generous dark cherry fruit, delectable and rather hedonistic, with a bite of minerally tension beneath Very good.
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 17.5-18
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2026 – 2031
£410/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
THE 2023 VINTAGE
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU CUVÉE AUX PETITES NOIX
This is named after the walnut trees that used to grow nearby. It is a blend of three premiers crus in the centre of the village, Monts Luisants, Les Gruenchers and Clos Baulet, which have a high clay content. This makes for a powerful style of wine, moderated by 20% whole-bunch vinification, the only wine for which Stéphane employs this method. Dark, pure berry fruit, with a little uplifting minty spice The palate is chocolatey with a certain generosity tempering its natural power
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 17 5
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2026 – 2032
£390/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CLOS SAINT-DENIS GRAND CRU
The vineyard from which the village of Morey-Saint-Denis takes its name, Clos Saint-Denis has a subsoil of friable limestone. The domaine has 0.32 hectares here. This site produces very small millerand berries. You can feel the intensity of those small grapes here, in a tactile concentration and limestone tension to the fine, dark forest fruit. “An aristocratic wine,” as Stéphane says. It receives 12 months’ ageing. 30% new oak with medium+ toast.
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 18+
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2029 – 2041
£900/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES FACONNIÈRES
This is a 0.6-hectare plot situated below Clos de la Roche. These are poor, dusty, free-draining soils whose vines average 48 years of age (two-thirds are 70-75 years old). “A super premier cru” , according to Stéphane, for whom I suspect this is a favourite. Lots of small millerand berries here. Tactile and structured with good intensity and punch. Supple blueberry and tender blackberry fruit is rendered saline and fine on the finish
CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 18
RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2026 – 2032
£400/ Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
We are now moving from Morey to Gevrey The domaine has a mere 0.19 hectares based in Mazoyères-Chambertin, although this wine has always been labelled CharmesChambertin, as is permitted. The average vine age is around 40 years. Dark cherry and black forest fruits. The palate is pure and luminous with firm, grippy tannins and, as Stéphane says, a “spherical” completeness. Where Clos Saint-Denis is potent and driving, this has wonderful clarity of expression. It will be given 12 months of oak ageing.
