2023 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK & SINGAPORE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN
“These are bottles that number among the finest that contemporary Burgundy has to offer.”
WILLIAM KELLEY, JANUARY 2025
INTRODUCTION
Even years of plenty like 2023 are spread thin at Domaine Dugat-Py. With 37 wines in this year’s offer and an estate of just 19 hectares, you can see the conundrum.
Domaine Dugat-Py has one of the great sets of holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin. But it also remains something of an enigma. How to introduce a domaine as unique as this? Perhaps with the experience of tasting there. Tasting at Dugat-Py is… Dark. The ecclesiastical cellar is so dimly lit that time seems to stand still. It’s a black hole of vinous discovery. To see what you’re writing, make sure your mobile phone is charged.
A marathon… and a sprint. Tasting the whole range is easier said than done. Barrel samples come thick and fast, two glasses at a time, for nearly three hours.
Joyful. To hit these highs, time and again, requires a unique sort of dedication. By his own admission, Loïc doesn’t take holidays and barely travels (making an exception for his annual visit to us in London). His unique focus has resulted in some of the most exciting wines in Burgundy today. If it wasn’t so dark, you would see us smiling as we taste.
The Dugat family have been growers in Gevrey-Chambertin since the early 17th century. Loїc Dugat, son of Bernard Dugat, is the 13th generation. The 2023 vintage is C&B’s third as exclusive UK agent and second as exclusive Singapore agent.
The holdings include four of the great grands crus of the village: Chambertin, MazisChambertin, Charmes-Chambertin and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Several wines are labelled Très Vieilles Vignes for the estate’s particularly old vines, some well over a century old.
The estate has been organic since 2003 and follows the lunar calendar. Several vineyards have recently been converted to the high-trellised tressage system of vine training. The buildings are in the historic centre of Gevrey-Chambertin, at the foot of the Combe de Lavaux.
The tenderness and elegance of recent vintages marks the beginning of the next chapter of Dugat-Py, one which we are thrilled to be a part of. The 2014 vintage can be seen as the start of the current era at the domaine, with 2017 and 2018 really stepping up to another level.
I cannot commend these wines to you more highly. They rank among the top tier of modern Burgundy.
GUY SEDDON, HEAD OF FINE WINE BUYING MARCH 2025
A TIMELINE OF DOMAINE DUGAT-PY
1645: Birth of Hugues Bollenot, son of Étienne Bollenot, vigneron in Gevrey-Chambertin.
1923: Marriage of Fernand Dugat and Jeanne Bolnot, resulting in the creation of Domaine Dugat.
1972: Pierre and Michèle Dugat, parents of Bernard Dugat, win the Tasse d'Or, awarded by Alexis Lichine for the best 1972 red grandcru,with their Charmes-Chambertin.
1975: First vinification of Bernard Dugat. The domaine begins to expand.
1994: Creation of the name Domaine Dugat-Py, appending the maiden name of Bernard’s wife.
1996: Loïc joins the estate while studying at university and doing internships.
1999: First year of conversion to organic viticulture in Chambertin and Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur de Roy.
2003: Conversion of the whole estate to organic viticulture. Acquisition of two plots in Côte de Beaune, Pommard and Meursault Blanc.
2004: Renovation and creation of new cellars. Acquisition of a Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 1er Cru Morgeot parcel.
2005: Purchase of 50% of the domaine by Loïc Dugat. Loïc makes various wines solo for the first time.
2006: Horses introduced for ploughing in various plots: Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny and Les Évocelles.
2009: Acquisition of new parcel of Gevrey-Chambertin Les Évocelles.
2011: Two new parcels on the hill of Corton: Corton-Charlemagne and Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille.
2013: Three Gevrey-Chambertin premiercrusmade separately for the first time: Fonteny, Les Corbeaux and La Perrière.
2014: Loïc Dugat and his wife Marie-Amélie responsible for all management and winemaking at the domaine.
2015: Organic certification granted.
2016: Loïc Dugat and his wife Marie-Amélie own 100% of the domaine. First vintage of Fixin Clos de Fixey Monopole.
2017: First vintage of Chorey-Lès-Beaune and planting of new parcel in Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.
2018: Change of trellising in four grandand premiercruparcels to 2.2m height, with six wires. This greater height allows the domaine to ‘arch’ the vines, using the tressage technique.
2019: The domaine acquires a number of plots formerly managed by Domaine Newman: Beaune Les Beaux Fougets, Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux, Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Pommard La Levrière, Pommard Les Vaumuriens-Hauts and Monthélie. First vintage of Fine and Marc de Bourgogne, and Crémant de Bourgogne.
2022: Acquisition of two new parcels: Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain and Aloxe-Corton Les Paulands. Organic certification granted from the 2022 vintage for new holdings: Beaune Les Beaux Fougets, Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux, Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Pommard La Levrière, Pommard Les Vaumuriens-Hauts and Monthélie.
2023: Addition of three reds — Auxey-Duresses Sur Melin, Savigny-lès-Beaune and Monthélie 1er Cru Les Riottes — and four whites — Bourgogne Aligoté, Monthélie La Combe Danay, Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons and Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières.
THE VINEYARDS
“The point of working with old vines is having a concentration and natural quality of wine.”
LOÏC DUGAT
Domaine Dugat-Py's holdings are blessed with particularly old vines, many of which are over 100 years old. The oldest vines of the estate were planted in 1905.
The domaine has 15 hectares, spread over more than 20 appellations, from which over 30 wines are made. The aim, as Loїc puts it, is “to obtain the quintessence of each terroir.”
The roots of the old vines reach 5-10 meters deep, contributing to the marked differences in terroir expression from plot to plot. Soils are cultivated to enable deep rooting. In 2018, Loїc began to convert four parcels (grands and premiers crus) to the tressage method whereby untrimmed vines are ‘arched’, so as to encourage root growth and energy flow.
By raising the height of the trellis to 2.2m, using six wires in total, it is possible to ‘braid’ the long vine canes back into the canopy. Loïc explained that tressage causes less stress to the vines and has totally changed his wines' tannins
The domaine embarked on its first organic trials 20 years ago. Loїc stresses that it has always been obvious to him that “nature must be preserved” — an approach which also happens to result in the best quality wine. The team follows the lunar cycle for vineyard work and cellar operations, “as our ancestors did”, as well as using biodynamic preparations.
Two hectares are now ploughed by horse and Loїc harvests significantly earlier than his father. The domaine has been among the first to start picking in recent vintages.
Loïc Dugat and Adam Brett-Smith
GRANDS CRUS
THE HOLDINGS
RED WINES
Not released en primeur GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN (5.04 hectares in total)
* one parcel dates from 1910
VOSNE-ROMANÉE (0.32 hectares in total)
POMMARD (0.66 hectares in total)
(1.07
* vines from Gevrey-Chambertin voluntarily declassified to Bourgogne Rouge
THE CELLAR
The historic Dugat-Py cellars are the only remaining part of a 9th century abbey called the Aumônerie. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, they are, according to Loїc Dugat, Burgundy’s oldest.
The abbey itself belonged to the St-Bénigne order in Dijon. Aumônier (Abbot) Halinard was responsible for its construction, at the foot of Gevrey-Chambertin’s Combe de Lavaux.
Of particular note are the Aumônerie’s gothic vaults and Byzantine style. Its six-metre height is extraordinary, lending a quasi-religious character. Indeed, in its early years, it would have been the monks who tended to both the vineyards and the cellar.
The cellar contains bottles made by Loїc’s father, grandfather and great-grandfather. All vintages since 1950 are represented, as well as some even older bottles. This large area of natural cellar space, with no need for air conditioning, is a rare luxury in the region.
Cellarage and ageing is clearly close to Loїc’s heart. He stresses, “the great terroirs only wake up after 5-10 years in bottle.” Élevage tends to be between 13 and 20 months.
Loïc has reduced the percentage of new oak. His father Bernard tended to use 100% new oak for all premiers and grands crus, and sometimes for communal appellations too. The Petite Chapelle 1er Cru now sees around 50% new oak, and the Vosne-Romanée just 30%. Loïc has also refined his selection of forests, seasoning and toast. The domaine’s cooper is François Frères.
Since 2018, Loïc has aged the premiers crus, other than Petite Chapelle, in Italian terracotta amphorae. This change was made without fanfare — as Loïc says, “I do things and only talk about them 5-10 years later.”
RED WINES
REGIONAL CÔTE DE BEAUNE
BOURGOGNE ROUGE
The domaine’s Bourgogne Rouge comes from 5-6 parcels, totalling around a hectare. The average vine age is 35 years. Flinty wild strawberries and exotic spices with fleshy pliancy and fine, clipped tannins. Punches way above its weight. 50% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2031
£315/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BOURGOGNE HALINARD
These vines are in Gevrey-Chambertin and are voluntarily declassified to Bourgogne Rouge. They range from 25 to 75 years old and have been certified organic since 2003. Darker fruited than the regular Bourgogne bottling, this is a flinty, spicy delight. The old vine component here makes for a wine of greater richness and substance. It spends 12-18 months in oak barrels, 10% new. 50% whole bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2034
£395/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BEAUNE LES BEAUX FOUGETS TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
Les Beaux Fougets is a village lieu-dit in the south of the Beaune appellation, a stone’s throw from the border of Pommard. The domaine’s holding is a tiny 0.26 hectares, close to Pommard 1er Cru Les Épenots, planted with 55-year-old vines. This was acquired from Domaine Newman. Dark berry and wild strawberry fruit, with firmer tannins here. 60% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038
£535/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE
This is a new wine in 2023. Aromas of cool, dark berry fruit lead into a palate of fabulous poise and clarity, on which subliminally rich raspberry and blackberry fruit are framed by fine, fruit-coated tannins. 50% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038
£350/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CHOREY-LÈS-BEAUNE TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
2017 was the first vintage of this wine. Chorey lies just north of the city of Beaune before you get to the hill of Corton. These are over 90-year-old vines planted on less than 0.3 hectares. Tasted before racking in November 2024. Happy, bright, buoyant raspberry fruit, particularly rich in matter, with playful spices. 50% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038
£535/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MONTHÉLIE TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
2019 was the first year of the domaine’s Monthélie, making this only the fourth vintage. The domaine has just over a hectare here; the average vine age is over 70 years. This formed part of the ex-Domaine Newman previously, several of whose holdings were acquired by Domaine Dugat-Py. A showstopping nose of bright red berries leading into a juicy, delectable palate of raspberry fruit and shapely, supple tannins. 50% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2033
£455/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
POMMARD LA LEVRIÈRE TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
La Levrière is beside the Château de Pommard. It tends to make a particularly aromatic style of Pommard. Over 70-year-old vines. 2003 was the first vintage — this wine and the Meursault were the first from the Côte de Beaune in the domaine’s line-up. This doesn’t shy away from the tannic power of Pommard — a rich, sweetly fruited wine which takes no prisoners. Tasted before racking at an early stage of élevage, so there is refinement to come. Adam declared this to be “very Heathcliff — raw power and passion,” presumably referring to the brooding antihero of Wuthering Heights. 60% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£775/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
POMMARD LES VAUMURIENS-HAUTS TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
Les Vaumuriens-Hauts is at the top of the slope, close to the woods above the village of Pommard. This previously formed part of the ex-Domaine Newman. Sweetly, darkly fruited (blackberry pie, according to Joe) and so bright, this is the antithesis of La Levrière. Upbeat and life-affirming, with great freshness. Vinified in a 10hl concrete dolium. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£875/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BEAUNE 1ER CRU CLOS DES AVAUX VIEILLES VIGNES
A short stroll from the centre of Beaune, Clos des Avaux sits in the centre of the swathe of Beaune premiers crus, just beneath 1er Cru Champs Pimont. The domaine has half a hectare here of 45-year-old vines. Fine, elegant and poised raspberry fruit with delicate spices, framed by fine, chalky tannins. This has the clarity of expression of the top echelon. Surely one of the stand-out stars of this under-the-radar vineyard. 50% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2039
£675/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
ALOXE-CORTON LES PAULANDS VIEILLES VIGNES
2022 was the first vintage of this wine. This 0.33-hectare plot was acquired by Loïc Dugat at the same time as his Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain. These are 70-yearold vines. Reductive nose when tasted in November 2024, leading into a palate of pure raspberry coulis and blackcurrant. Brilliantly bright fruit is the key to this wine. The tannins will resolve with further élevage. 60% whole bunch fermentation. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2039
£455/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BEAUNE 1ER CRU LES GRÈVES TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
Grèves is considered by many to be the greatest site in Beaune. This holding was also from Domaine Newman and, as Loïc says, was the prize in many ways. These are 60-year-old vines. Aromas of dark berries and cocoa powder. The palate is acid-driven and precise, making for a focussed wine of energy and drive. Impressive and in need of some patience but with excellent balance. 60% whole bunch fermentation. 15% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2039
£995/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK 13
FIXIN CLOS DE FIXEY MONOPOLE
Clos de Fixey is a 0.29-hectare walled vineyard planted with 45-year-old vines on the slopes above the Route des Grands Crus. The domaine being the sole owner, it is a monopole. As Loïc said, “I like to make it supple, as it can be quite austere otherwise.” Creamy dark berries on the nose. The palate is, indeed, supple and pliant, with a dark cherry lift and a fine fruit coating to the chalky tannins. 50% whole bunch fermentation. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040
£450/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
VOSNE-ROMANÉE TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
This is the domaine’s only Vosne-Romanée. It is labelled Très Vieilles Vignes to acknowledge the 80-year-old average vine age. It comes from two highly esteemed plots: half is from Quartier de Nuits — a village climat wedged between Grands Échézeaux, Suchots and Clos de Vougeot — and half from Les Violettes, just beside Échézeaux. Wild strawberries, raspberry essence, coffee beans and a dark core make this one of the most serious village Vosnes you are likely to taste. Powerful and velvety. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 30% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2040
£975/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VIEILLES VIGNES
The Gevrey ‘VV’ and the following wine, Coeur de Roy, are, in a sense, the heart of the domaine. Whilst certainly not plentiful, they are less tiny (3-4,000 bottles per year). This vieilles vignes cuvée is made from 1.3 hectares of 40-50-year-old vines from at least ten parcels. Elegant dark berry fruit with a fine tannic framing makes for a discreet yet powerful wine, rendered with impressive refinement. 60% whole bunch fermentation. 15% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040
£725/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN COEUR DE ROY TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
Named after the family who previously owned the vineyards around the domaine, Coeur de Roy is made from vines aged between 50 and 115 years old. It is a selection from four plots, spread over three hectares and is the largest volume cuvée at the estate. Aromas of strawberries and cream — the nose is lifted and pretty. The palate reveals darker berries and is seamlessly elegant, with expressive sappy spices lifting the flavours harmoniously. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2040
£795/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES ÉVOCELLES TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
Évocelles, although a village vineyard, is the continuation of the line of premiers crus that runs from Clos SaintJacques to Cazetiers and on to Champeaux. Loïc Dugat described it as “one of the greatest lieux-dits of GevreyChambertin.” The domaine has three-quarters of a hectare of 65-year-old vines here. Such refinement on the darkly berried nose leading into a palate which is “almost a premier cru,” in Loïc’s words. Textbook Gevrey — as Joe said, “awesome”. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2042
£975/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CORBEAUX TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
Corbeaux is directly beside the great grand cru MazisChambertin. There are two small parcels here, the oldest vines of which are 90 years old. Aromas of sweet dark berry fruit, with cedary spices. Currently quite flashy on the palate, no doubt mostly due to the stage of élevage This is bigger boned than its siblings, with more overt, rotund fruit. It will find its balance in time — there is incipient beauty here. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 30% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18+
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2040
£1,725/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU PETITE CHAPELLE TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
The domaine’s vines in 1er Cru Petite Chapelle are only 500m from Charmes-Chambertin. The oldest vines here are almost 90 years old. Loïc calls this “The Chambolle of Gevrey”, and you can see why from its soaringly pretty red berry perfume and supremely supple, energetic palate. There is no shortage of matter here, but the style is buoyant, ethereal even. It finishes fresh and saline. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2043
£2,050/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU LAVAUX ST-JACQUES VIEILLES VIGNES
The domaine’s tiny 0.14-hectare holding here comprises two south-facing parcels 100 metres apart. The vines are between 45 and 65 years old. As Loïc described it, it is a wine “of grand cru quality, defined by the combe” — the Combe Lavaux side valley, which brings cooling breezes from the hills. Bright raspberry and elegant blackberry, this is a succulent charmer which deceives with its prettiness — there is phenomenal structure and pedigree beneath the joyful fruit here. Elemental, with lots in reserve. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 30% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2043
£2,050/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU FONTENY TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
Fonteny is just above Mazis- and beside RuchottesChambertin. It is a warm site, nestled in a dip in the slope where the line of great Gevrey grands crus meets the Combe Lavaux side valley. The domaine has a miniscule 0.09 hectares here, whose vines were between 58 and 82 years old in 2023. The planting density here is 15,000 vines per hectare. A dark chocolatey nose with blackcurrant, fresh mint spices and a promise of limestone tension. The palate is violet-infused, the seamless, juicy, dark berry fruit framed by super-refined tannins. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 30% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2043
£2,050/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
The domaine has 0.47 hectares in Charmes-Chambertin. The vines here are over 70 years old. Incipient sweetness on the nose — as Joe said, there is a “sumptuous and playful” feel to this. The palate opens cool and racy, revealing almost unfathomable depths below. There is so much development ahead of this nascent beauty, even if it was somewhat shy when tasted in November 2024. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 25% new oak. My score is conservative.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2031 - 2045
£1,450/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
MAZOYÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
The stony Mazoyères, with its prominent minerality, is the yin to Charmes-Chambertin’s yang. The two holdings are separated by just 100 metres. The domaine has 0.23 hectares here. Since taking over, Loïc uses more whole bunch fermentation and less new oak here. A soaringly pretty nose of sappy spices and roses. Limestone tension sustains the palate, whose multifaceted, charming aromatics suffuse the journey through this wine rather wonderfully. 90% whole bunch fermentation. 30% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19
Recommended drinking from 2031 - 2045
£1,795/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
This tiny 0.22-hectare plot of 70-year-old vines was one of the first vineyards to which Loïc Dugat took us when we first visited the domaine. I have a feeling it is particularly close to his heart. He described the wine as aérien — that wonderful French word which is almost impossible to translate (ethereal, soaring, airborne…). Small berried and intensely red-fruited aromas. Intense, full stop. And then a touch of sexy sweetness. The palate delivers even more than the nose promises — it is curvy and soaring, then strict and finely detailed, both of the earth and the air. The most graceful of the grands crus. 75% whole bunch fermentation. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2031 - 2045
£2,150/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
BOURGOGNE BLANC
WHITE WINES
The domaine’s Bourgogne Blanc was the surprise hit of our original launch dinner. For a humble Bourgogne and a young vines cuvée by Dugat-Py standards (just 20-yearold vines), this wine over-delivers massively. It comes from two parcels — one in Gevrey-Chambertin and the other in Puligny-Montrachet — an intriguing blend of the two Côtes. A hint of pineapple and sweet spice here, teetering on the exuberant, but it reins it in on the salty palate. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2028
£295/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS
This comes from Chavanne, above Nuits-Saint-Georges in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. The vines here are planted at a higher density of 12,000 plants per hectare. Pear skin and white flower aromas. The palate is crunchy on the entry, opening onto a mid-palate of pure white peach fruit with a flash of sweet succulence. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2031
£315/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE BLANC LES VERMOTS
Les Vermots is a lieu-dit in the hills of Savigny, where vines give way to forest. This is one of the most beautiful parts of the Côte de Beaune. New to the line-up in 2023, Les Vermots offers aromas of white flower and pear fruit, opening onto a nervy palate of white peaches and chalky minerality. A wine of poised palate weight that will please the classicists. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2029
£250/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BEAUNE 1ER CRU BLANC ÉPENOTES
This Beaune 1er Cru lies just below Clos des Mouches, to the south of the city of Beaune. Ripe peach and apricot fruit with notes of cream and pâtisserie. A lush extrovert that is impossible not to like. It’s all-natural too — there is no new oak here.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2029
£525/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
PERNAND-VERGELESSES 1ER CRU SOUS FRÉTILLE
Sous Frétille is a steeply sloping premier cru overlooking the village of Pernand-Vergelesses and opposite the En Charlemagne climat of Corton-Charlemagne. It has been part of the domaine’s line-up since 2011. We visited with Loïc when it was being ploughed by horse, which underscored the gradient. A wine of friable white pear fruit and chalky minerality in 2023, with pliant ripeness, this is a fleshier version of Corton-Charlemagne. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£735/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MEURSAULT TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
The vines here are an impressive 90 years of age, hence the Très Vieilles Vignes suffix. This small 0.21-hectare plot in the centre of the village was acquired by the domaine in 2003, making this the 20th vintage. Leesy aromas of hay and pâtisserie, with ripe peach fruit. The palate is fleshy and seductive, with a nice salty bite to the finish. 30% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£895/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU LES PORUSOTS
Les Porusots is wonderfully sited at mid-slope. Its premier cru neighbours are Genevrières to the south and Les Gouttes d’Or to the north. Rich aromas of nectarine and warm hay. The palate opens in a more classical, driving vein, although the plump apricot ripeness reemerges irrepressibly. 50% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2034
£1,350/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU LES CHARMES
One of the great premiers crus of Meursault, Charmes is a large mid-slope vineyard in the south of the appellation, surrounded by Puligny-Montrachet’s Combettes and Referts, and Meursault’s Perrières and Genevrières. This is finer and more precise than the village Meursault, with a clipped, phenolic definition. A wine of cool poise and a total contrast to Poruzots. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£1,250/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES PERRIÈRES
Puligny’s Les Perrières is just to the south of premiers crus Combettes and Referts. The domaine team worked this plot and picked the grapes. 2019 was the first vintage here. A nose of toasted hazelnut with expressive lime zest and grapefruit. The palate is saline and chalky — one for the purists. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2037
£1,275/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES REFERTS
Just downslope from Combettes, in the north of the Puligny appellation, I always think Referts deserves a higher profile. Although this is a négociant wine, the domaine team worked this plot and picked the grapes. This is clipped, focussed and classical, with lemon zest and stony minerality defying what might be expected from the 2023 warmth. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2036
£1,350/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES FOLATIÈRES
Folatières is a large vineyard above Clavoillon and below Champ Gain. 2023 is the first vintage made by Loïc. A wine of crunchy apple pith, whose tactile palate accentuates the impressive drive. Tense, nervy and pure. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£1,350/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES CHAMPS-GAIN
The domaine acquired this small parcel of 60-year-old vines in Champs-Gain two years ago — 2023 is the second vintage. This holding is just above Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières. Aromas of fleshy white peach fruit leading into a joyful palate of pliant peach-fruited succulence. The hedonistic mid-palate is reined in on the tactile, pithy finish, where the true class of this wine is revealed. “Wonderful,” I scribbled. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£2,150/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU MORGEOT TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES
The domaine’s 0.24-hectare holding in this large Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru is a mid-slope site in the Francemont lieu-dit, at the southern end of the vineyard. This plot of 80-year-old vines was acquired by the domaine in the 2004 vintage. Fine and clipped, it is an ultra-classical wine of chalky matter and substantial stone fruit. The merest of nods to the flirtatious side of 2023. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2035
£1,595/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU
The domaine’s 0.24-hectare plot of Corton-Charlemagne is in the En Charlemagne sector, on the PernandVergelesses side of the hill. It is southwest-facing, planted with 45-50-year-old vines. Lime skin and bright green melon aromas with gentle creaminess. The palate is stony-mineral and rich, with a lactic volume and phenomenal mineral drive lingering on the tactile finish. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2039
£1,495/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
21
LONDON
1 Thomas More Street
London E1W 1YZ
T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com
EDINBURGH
Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead, Midlothian EH37 5UB
T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com
EAST ANGLIA
1 Rous Road
Newmarket, Suffolk CB8 8DH
T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com
SINGAPORE
NORTH OF ENGLAND
4 Park Square East
Leeds LS1 2NE
T +44 (0)1133 400 380 northofengland@corneyandbarrow.com
AYR
8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland KA7 1HT
T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com
70 Anson Road #07-01 Hub Synergy Point Singapore 079905 T +65 6221 8530
singapore@corneyandbarrow.com
www.corneyandbarrow.com