Dansk Daily Saturday, 6th of Aug 2011

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

PROUD SPONSOR OF

dansk daily COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK SPRING SUMMER 2012 — Saturday 06.08.2011 —

Trend —

GREAT DESIGNERS REVITALIZE Max Factor — LOOK OF THE DAY: DENNIS LYNGSØ

Reviews — BENEDIKTE UTZON, DESIGNERS REMIX, HENRIK VIBSKOV

Feature — WHY FIRST-TIMERS INVADE COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Cover photo — Josephine Skriver in Helje Hamre by Anders von Greffelstejn

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Editorial —

RENOVATION Renovation was the theme for By Malene Birger’s new collection, presented yesterday in the presence of princess Marie and an impressive turnout of A-list celebrities, including actresses Iben Hjejle and Ellen Hillingsø and singer Lene Nystrøm, in a stylish setting at Carlsberg’s hip art space ’Tap 1’. Malene Birger’s models paraded the runway in stylish disco slash summer of love-outfits in a grandiose setting, where even the chairs were dressed to kill in long robes.

But the word also beautifully sums up one of the strongest — and most welcome — trends in this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week: The tendency for the great contenders in Danish fashion to re-evaluate their design and infuse it with innovation, without losing their way or letting go of their DNA. I’m thinking, of course, of Benedikte Utzon, who last year revitalized her ladylike fashion and again this year delivered a confident and elegant collection with a chic touch of glamour.

Of Ivan Grundahl, whose authentic safari look bore witness to the hand of a mature designer who is capable of combining innovation and tradition, while steering clear of the pitfalls of pretentiousness. And, among others, I also think of Bruuns Bazaar, which boldly leaves it to a new creative director to redefine one of Danish women’s favorite labels.

In this respect, Copenhagen Fashion Week is a testimony to one of nature’s most delightful systems, the big guys aiding the smaller ones, for the benefit of the pack. More than a handful of first-timers vitalize the show schedule of this season, resulting in another powerful current trend: innovation on the runways.

Giving a show is a great financial risk for a newly established label, but for a talent, doing so has the ability to make a designer in the first attempt. This happened to the successful Norwegian designer Veronica B. Vallenes, as she tells us in this issue of Dansk Daily: ”It gave me a chance to present my collections within a professional context in front of national and international journalists, and this has resulted in quite a lot of press, as well as an increased demand.” Now, the same seems to be the case for one of this season’s first-timers, Anne Sofie Madsen. But it wouldn’t have happened without the established designer stars to provide the context and draw media such as Vogue, The New York Times and Dazed and Confused, who graced our front rows with their presence.

Renovation equals innovation, if only the talent is ripe.

Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz SUBEDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN DesignUnit EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Theresa Bødkergaard WRITERS Elsebeth Mouritzen, Moussa Mchangama, Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning, Stinne Jensen, FashionForum.dk PHOTOGRAPHERS Anders von Greffelstejn, Simon B. Mørch, Thomas Degner, Sacha Maric DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Karen Bang Larsen PRINT Berlingske Avistryk

— page 2 —

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DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — News —

NEWS — EXCELLENCE ALWAYS IN FASHION Paris, London, New York and Milan Fashion Week, are just a few of its clients. DHL provides logistics services to a total of 23 global Fashion Week and Fashion Day events in 10 countries on four continents, and has now widened its official partnership to include Copenhagen Fashion Week - the Fashion Capital of Scandinavia. As “Preferred Logistics Partner of Copenhagen Fashion Week,” DHL will offer great deals for brands collaborating with Copenhagen Fashion Week and will be supporting the new generation of Danish fashion. This season, DHL shows its support by sponsoring Anne Sofie Madsen and thereby securing new talent on the runways of Copenhagen Fashion Week. www.dhl.dk

Christian Westphal launches womens wear

— by FashionForum.dk —

Danish designer Christian Westphal (who has worked for Galliano at Dior Couture and Ungaro) is launching a line for women. The first collection, “Cut, Trim, Eat” is based on the idea of a butcher, a surgeon and a tailor.

“Women wants clothes that are formal, but relaxed; new, but not too advanced; confident, but not too aggressive; and last but not least, the clothes need to tempt the woman to buy them,” says the designer.

— by FashionForum.dk —

THE FUSION WRAP In the less-than-perfect world of yesterday, women were forced to make a crucial daily choice: length or volume mascara? Of course, we’re not talking trialing choices that change the world, but nonetheless an everyday choice that despite its basic nature is on many a mind. At last, rescue is here!

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Rozanna’s pick This summer, creative editor of Dansk Daily Rozanna can be seen walking the streets of Copenhagen in this new pair of sneakers by Nike. Purple is for passion, and what to be more passionate about than a pair of fresh sneaks? www.nike.com

Max Factor False Lash Effect Fusion Mascara is DKK 139 and comes in three colors.

— page 6 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — News —

NEWS —

ANNE LOVES 2ND DAY The popular Danish brand Day Birger et Mikkelsen, known for its bohemian take on fashion, has launched a younger and edgier subline called 2nd Day. “I really like the contemporary interpretation of Day’s universe, as it adds a bit of darkness and rock’n’roll attitude,” says executive editor Anne.

FASHION FLICKING Via Issuu you can now flick through an exact online version of DANSK Daily, the guide to Copenhagen Fashion Week and the Copenhagen Fashion Festival program. Visit www.copenhagenfashionweek.com or www.danskdaily.dk.

Rising jewelry star The fast-growing jewelry brand Shamballa Jewels is known worldwide for its beautiful and original designs. Equally notable is the company’s impressive customer portfolio, including designers, models and style icons such as Valentino Garavani, The Roitfeld family, Viktor from Viktor & Rolf, Mary Kate Olsen, Bianca Brandolini and many more.

Shamballajewels.com

— page 7 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — News —

NEWS — SLOW WEAR Usually, it’s trends in fashion that inspire interior decoration, but with the celebrated Danish design company Karmameju, it’s the other way around. The interior design company headed by former fashion model Mette Skjærbæk has made a name creating laidback, luxurious lounge furniture in a celebration of the good life. Now, Karmameju brings the wellness trend into fashion with a collection of so called Slow Wear, in which a key item is the TRIBECA cardigan, knitted in 50 % bamboo and 50 % silk. Karmameju.com

Vintage shopping online can (help) save the world Red Cross Denmark and miinto.dk, the biggest webshop in Scandinavia, have teamed up, making it possible to buy vintage clothing for a good cause online. On the website you can find clothes for both men and women, with high fashion brands like Kenzo, Cacharel and Burberry sold next to unique and crazy outfits from a past long gone.

Since all the profits go directly to the Red Cross’s work, there is no good excuse for not taking a look at www.rodekors.dk/butik.

INSIDE COPENHAGEN Le Gammeltoft, DJ and popular host on the national radio channel P3, is known for mixing up disco, house and techno on the Danish club scene, but has also found time in her busy schedule to launch the record label Sound of Copenhagen.

You shouldn’t miss enjoying a glass of wine at café Bådudlejningen at Christianshavn. It’s the perfect spot to sit by the canals, watching life go by and Copenhageners cruise around.

— by FashionForum.dk —

For dinner I recommend Geist. The chef Bo Bech is one of the best in Denmark, and opened Geist this spring. Not too expensive, but the food is fantastic and the atmosphere perfect.

For shopping I love Dansk on Istedgade in Vesterbro. It’s full of beautiful Danish interior design. For accessories, I’m a sucker for this new shop in Gothersgade called It’s. And &Pagne on Hyskenstræde is one of my favorite clothing stores, or It’s on Gothersgade for accessories.

The best party you’ll find is at KB3 in the Meatpacking District.

They care more about the vibe than immediate coolness. No 17-year-olds in Gucci.

— page 8 —

IBEN’S PICK OF THE DAY Narciso Rodriguez once chose a young Norwegian designer as his protegé, and his patronage seems to be paying off. Helje Hamre is the name of the now experienced designer, who finally left New York and recently launched his own label. This gorgeous black suit was one of several good pieces in the promising collection he presented yesterday for Copenhagen Fashion Week.

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — News —

NEWS — CREATIVE MUGSHOTS

SONS AND DAUGHTERS Moonspoon Saloon presented its new collection Sons and Daughters Thursday at an event for press and buyers. Speckled with prints of little ghosts, the new Moonspoon offerings have been inspired by a mix of hip hop and 90s techno. The label is growing and with a solid presence in both Copenhagen and LA, it will be exciting to follow its further developments.

Sharp lines and sustainability.

Mugshot is an upcoming force in the Danish hair industry.

Started in Summer 2010 by the young team Mike Nielsen (26) and Kristinn Óli (29), the ambition is to take the hair business to a higher, more creative level.

“The concept of Mugshot is to step away from your typical hair salon’s wellness-concepts and instead prioritize creativity and handcraft. Mugshot is more of a creative workshop than an ordinary hair salon” Mike Nielsen explains.This concept seems to work. In just a year, Mugshot has expanded to a staff of five hairdressers, and is now teaching classes and hosting big seminars all over the country. Every season, Mugshot creates a new collection to inspire and contribute to the hair zeitgeist. With Mugshot, you’ll never see the same style twice. Mugshot is represented at this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, styling Baum und Pferdgarten, Ole Yde and Stine Goya’s shows for Wella. www.mugshot-hair.dk

M A R I A M A C K I N N E Y

-VAL E N T I N

MODE

MARIA MACKINNEY-VALENTIN

M O D E

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VIDEN

SEGALL’S BOTTLED BLISS

NEW BOOK TEACHES FASHION FOR SCHOOL KIDS

Spectators at the Designers Remix show this season could feast their eyes on a spectacular sculpture made of Copen*hagen bottles. Its creator, Karen Segall, graduated from the Royal Academy of Arts in 2009, having focused on the interaction between illustration, fashion and art.

Since then, she’s been an illustrator in constant demand.

A new book on fashion has seen the light of day. Its author, assistant professor at the Danish Design School Maria Mackinney-Valentin, has made a book to give kids a vocabulary for fashion, so they can express themselves, their choices and their culture. Watch out, 7th-grade fashionistas — school just got a lot more interesting.

— by FashionForum.dk —

— page 9 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Feature —

FIRST TIME’S THE CHARM Words — Iben Albinus Sabroe

Illustrator — Anne Sofie Madsen

A TOTAL OF 11 FIRST-TIMERS VITALIZE COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK’S SHOW CALENDAR THIS SEASON. THE BOLD AND THE YOUNG DEFY FINANCIAL RISKS TO FULFILL THEIR DREAMS OF SUCCEEDING WITH THEIR OWN LABELS. ALSO, THEY’VE FIGURED OUT THE VALUE OF BRANDING.

She worked for John Galliano and Dior in Paris.

She worked for Alexander McQueen in London.

And she was selected by Vauxhall Fashion Scout to do a show with three other newcomers during London Fashion Week. Yet, when asked what is the highlight of her career so far, Anne Sofie Madsen doesn’t hesitate: ”When I was invited to open Copenhagen Fashion Week. First I thought wow. Then I panicked.” As it turned out, she didn’t need to. Her first show in her own label was more than well-received. ”For as long as I can remember, I’ve always wanted to have my own brand, but I didn’t know if I could do it.” 31-year-old Anne Sofie Madsen took a break from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts. First working as an illustrator for trend agency Peclers in Paris, she came to John Galliano’s office as a trainee. Then, a French agency recommended her to Alexander McQueen, who hired her as a junior designer. ”That’s when I found out that I wanted to do my own stuff. I thought that if I had to work this hard I wanted to have my own name on the label. Then they called me from Fashion Scout 2010, and I realized that I might have a chance.

So, I made some money working as an illustrator and it gave me time to think and work out what to do. I worked out a business plan and formulated my vision,” says Madsen, who made her collection with five interns in a backyard office, where she couldn’t afford a refrigerator. ”I have seen people put too much money at risk in this business, so I want to keep expenses at a low cost and try not to bake too big a bread.” So why do a show so soon, one might wonder. ”A show is the most important priority for me.

The media are to fashion what galleries are to the art world. The clothes are seen on a living, walking model, and as a designer, a show is your only chance to influence absolutely everything surrounding your design,” says Madsen.

“IF I AM LUCKY, STYLISTS WILL USE MY THINGS IN MAGAZINES, BUT THIS IS MY CHANCE TO INVITE PEOPLE INTO MY UNIVERSE.” Her show was inspired by Japanese film action heroine Princess Mononoke, and was accompanied by taiko, traditional Japanese drumming. ”It means a lot for me as a designer to control all these things; to invite people into my universe,” says Madsen, and adds, almost as a parenthesis, but nevertheless an important one that reveals her awareness of the power of branding: ”Also, a runway represents high fashion.”

important to keep the flame going. If you want to be taken seriously you need a show. A show is a financial risk, but it’s what I want.”

To Emilia Hernesniemi and Hanna Riiheläinen, the risk is actually much bigger if you don’t bet on what you’ve got. They are the women behind the Finnish label R/H, who just gave their first show ever in Copenhagen. ”Many people asked us why we are willing to take such a great risk. Shows cost a lot of money. But we thought we would risk more if we got stuck working for someone else, just earning a living.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE, YOU KNOW. IT’S ONLY MONEY; IF YOU LOSE YOUR CREATIVITY, IT’S A LOT WORSE. MAYBE YOU CAN’T GET IT BACK,” SAYS EMILIA HERNESNIEMI, 27.

She and Riiheläinen, 31, met at the University of Art in Helsinki in 2003. After graduating, Emilia was a textile deisgner, while Hanna worked for Zac Posen in New York. ”But the only thing we really wanted to do was to have our own collection. When we completed our master’s degrees, Hanna did the silhouettes and I did the prints, and we made a plan.” A year after, in 2009, the two friends launched R/H. They chose Copenhagen after Emilia had worked with Agency V, doing PR for Stine Goya: ”We have been around for a year, so we didn’t feel prepared for a show. But when we asked for a fair booth, we were encouraged to do a show.” ”Copenhagen is perfect us. It’s a small city for a fashion week, but a lot is going on.”

Dennis Lyngsø, also a first-timer, agrees: ”I love shows, because that is where a designer can create an atmosphere around the work.

I want to tell a story about my work, and that is difficult to do on a stand at a fair,” says the 26 year-old-designer, who has no intentions of focusing on what he calls ”commercial clothes”: ”Danish fashion is very democratic, but I am not interested in promoting the classic understated elegance,” says Lyngsø, who designs for women mainly in black silks, ostrich and raffia.

Just out of school, he won the prestigious award Den Gyldne Pelsnål and the Triumph Inspiration Award, garnering him quite a lot of attention: ”I always wanted to have my own brand, and when I won those awards I thought it was

— — page page 10 10 — —

Even if giving a show right out of school may seem hazardous, it could very well be the right way to go for a new designer, says Veronica B. Vallenes, a quickly rising Norwegian designer based in Copenhagen: ”I had my first show last year, and it has definitely been worthwhile. It gave me a chance to present my collections within a professional context in front of national and international journalists, and this has resulted in quite a lot of press, as well as an increased demand,” she says. A show by itself, however, is not enough, she adds: ”If you want to succeed with your own brand, you’ve got to have a signature, a will of steel, patience and above all passion. Well, maybe not above all, because there is no doubt that you need a head for business on top of that,” says the designer, who has already become a favorite of the Copenhagen fashion crowd.

So, who’s next?

DYHR.HAGEN

HELP ME HELP

Helena Christensen har designet en t-shirt i samarbejde med Dyhr.Hagen for Brand 8. Overskuddet fra salget af t-shirten går til Aidsfondet. Læs mere om sagen og forhandlerinformation på aidsfondet-brand8.com.

Visit Brand 8 at Terminal 2, booth T095, to see the collection.

TAK TIL: Helena Christensen, Dyhr.Hagen, Brand 8, 9PR, Jonas Bie, Petra Kleis, Bern Film, Kokoon, Tune Tekstiltryk, Damgaard Jensen, Wetouch, Dansk Daily.

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

BENEDIKTE UTZON

AFFORDABLE LUXURY Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen

Photo — Sacha Maric

Last season, Benedikte Utzon reset her company, looked to the future and debuted with a streamlined, luxurious collection that received rave reviews. The big question: can she keep up the good work?

Simple answer: yes!

As leather is no longer exclusively a fall/winter material, she offered delicate mushroom and mauve snake imprints on stretch suede leather in fit-toperfection leggings for spring, topped with a snake print billowing silk blouse and leather shorts, bikerskinny and wide-legged. A strong theme was the series of powder rose and black graphic prints, used on soft dresses and blouses with wide stripes and flowers.

Benedikte Utzon has a strong hand in tailoring, a skill particularly evident in a feminine beige trenchcoat with a ruffled undercollar, and a killer black business suit with a cropped jacket and a nicely detailed pair of slim pants.

— page 12 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

DESIGNERS REMIX

SOPHISTICATED RETURN Words — Stinne Jensen

Photo — Sacha Maric

After a short break from Copenhagen Fashion Week, Designers Remix returned to an expectant audience.

In collaboration with the new ubiquitous designerbeer Copen*hagen,the show took place under an installation of hanging robes at the ‘Ny Tap’ at Carlsberg. This worked very well with the long lines of the collection.

As always, designer Charlotte Eskildsen showed a minimalistic yet stylistically ambitious collection of wardrobe essentials, focusing on dresses and suits. The overall silhouette was tall and slender, mixed with architectonic details, mostly on shoulders. Her usual play with asymmetry, supple draping and tailoring were very present, and so were the many styles suitable for both day - and nighttime. In particular, the excquisitely draped, sculpted dresses in either bright yellow or tan are worth noticing.

Colors were kept safe in black, white, tan and dark blue, with a small number of styles in bubblegum pastels and a refreshing splash of neon yellow. Only a few styles had more than one color, giving the whole collection a very calm and sophisticated look.

Super tall models strutted down the runway, resembling strong Helmut Newton women with their long legs, tight ponytails and strong gaze.

Eskildsen is continuously refining her style and perfecting the art of the dress. Although this collection seemed to show less dresses than usual, Eskildsen’s way of rethinking her own style never seems to disappoint.

— page 13 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

HUGO BOSS

THREE LINES OF BOSS Words —Sille Henning Photo — Sacha Maric

Friday morning was kicked off with the HUGO BOSS show, presenting the three different lines HUGO, BOSS Orange and BOSS. The HUGO collection was simple yet beautiful, with a monochrome color palette of black and white and an accent of bright pink and cobalt blue — two colors we have seen repeatedly this week. There was a minimalistic coat in hounds tooth mixed with slim pants, leather pants mixed with a blazer and a blouse in printed silk, narrow jeans with a leather jacket and striped shift dresses an upscale and modern take on everyday wear.

At BOSS Orange there was a casual and easy feel, with a striped maxi dress in jersey, chinos and denim. It provided a fresh but muted color palette perfect for a summer day.

The sophisticated BOSS line featured elegant skirt suits, simple shift dresses, and pantsuits in pale rose, all very feminine and chic, topped off with floor-length dresses in the show’s finale. The sorbet nuances mixed with black and white gave the collection a luxurious mood.

Overall, a safe and attainable collection from the hands of the established and iconic fashion brand.

HAANING & HTOON

URBAN CONTRASTS Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen

Photo — Sacha Maric

After showing in Oslo and Amsterdam in the previous seasons, new Norwegian-British design duo Haaning &Htoon, educated from Esmod and St.Martins respectively, decided to give Copenhagen a try.

They have wanted to let their brand grow gradually into what they modestly call “innovative realism”, as in wearable clothes in luxurious fabrics, but with an affordable price tag. They carried it out beautifully in their collection called “Ballerina goes to war”, where feminine meets masculine, conjuring a decadent dancer sharing her wardrobe with a utilitarian soldier.

The overall impression was a feminine and confident collection with breezy dresses and shirts in monochrome nudes and roses, plus a cool Chanel-like tweed-print on a drawstring dress. Lots of patch pockets were used on slim pants, jackets and even on an A-line dress as decoration, and the edgier items were mixed with the softer side of the collection. No ballerina flats, all heels, and dog tags as jewelry. Urban contrast indeed.

— page 14 —

www.pilgrim.dk

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

FUTURISTIC SOPHISTICATION Words — Sille Henning

Photo — Sacha Maric

A long and inspirational day ended Thursday night at City Hall with Baum und Pferdgarten’s show — the second since the label’s break from the runway.

The new Spring/Summer 2011 collection the designer duo presented continued down the same path as last season, when the design was a little less quirky and more modern, albeit without losing the label’s DNA. There was a reworked classic trench and twisted boyfriend shirts combined with feminine ruffles and trapez skirts. The colors were bright in green, blue, and orange, the prints simple with Breton stripes, dots, and different kinds of checks — all mixed together in the fashion blender, giving it a playful and modern look.

The silhouette was slim and more minimalistic than before, and hemlines varied from calf-length skirts to minis, and ankle-cropped pants to the very short kind. Overall, the collection had a sporty feel with drawstring details, patch pockets, plenty of jersey, and neoprene materials all juxtaposed against wellknown materials like silk, denim and knit.

The collection was casual yet elegant, futuristic yet sophisticated and still very wearable. An interesting collection with many new wardrobe classics to be.

— page 16 —

Agnes. Moscow. Hotel Metropol.

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

DESIGNER’S NEST

NEW TWISTS ON SCANDINAVIAN FASHION Words — Sille Henning Photo — Sacha Maric

A talent award show is always a good opportunity for aspiring designers to showcase their vision of the future direction of Scandinavian fashion. Yesterday’s show was no exception, as 23 promising Scandinavian design talents presented their design at the 14th edition of ‘Designers Nest’.

Linda Larsson from Textillhögskolan i Borås was awarded first prize for a fresh twist on Scandinavian simplicity. Her designs were asymmetric with origami details and kept in off-white, underlining the cleanness of her vision.

First runner-up was Anne Thomsen from the Royal Danish Academy for Fine Arts (Danmarks Designskole), who was lauded for her choice in fabrics and good craftsmanship.

Runner up Anna-Mari Leppisaari from University of Art and Design Helsinki had fascinated the jury with her materials and extravagant use of colors.

Amongst the prizes was a stand at the Copenhagen Vision fair for two seasons for each of the three winners, granting them a platform to present their creativity and talent for the press, stylist and potential buyers.

IVAN GRUNDAHL

EBONY AND IVORY Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen

Photo — Sacha Maric

Ivan Grundahl may just have delivered the most authentic interpretation of a modern day Karen Blixen, and fellow globetrotters’ infatuation with the large continent below, when he revealed his pure yet imposing collection to the dry sound of tribal flutes in a packed art gallery. He avoided the pitfalls of warrior makeup and large ethnic jewelry, and let the clothes speak for themselves in beautiful fabrics and his signature voluminous silhouettes.

The colors ranged from crispy white over ebony and grey to mushroom and earthy browns, complemented by a luminous Tuareg blue. No patterns, just textures. He worked with pleats, cut-outs and draping in the finest cottons, burlap, linen, silk, some with rough hems, and pulled it together with the occasional big leather belt.

He was still true to his general Asian influence with a suite of black summer wools and leather in a slim design, but the lasting impression was a clever and respectful take on the African trend.

— page 18 —

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DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

MINIMARKET

THE ALLURING QUEEN OF EGYPT Words — Rikke Dyrholm

Photo — Sacha Maric

The design trio behind minimarket took a different path than in earlier collections, unveiling a remarkable Egyptian universe evidently inspired by the ancient goddesses. The prehistoric myth of sinners and slaves was brought to life by means of the classic story about queen Cleopatra.

Wearing identical black Cleopatra wigs, the models entered the stage in light delicate dresses, ankle-cropped pants, long, light blazers and kimono-like pieces in thin airy materials — very see-through yet gracefully layered.

The color scale underscored the theme by introducing 70s tonal colors such as yellow tones, faded orange, brown and dustygreen, combined with faded black and dusty white. In addition to the garments, minimarket presented several outstanding wedges and flats in hues of gold, red and animal print.

The change of style suited the label in its presentation of a complete and striking collection.

— page 22 —

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DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

ASTRID ANDERSEN

BALKANS’ FINEST Words — Stinne Jensen

Photo — Sacha Maric

Set in the swankiest gym in town, Astrid Andersen showed her SS12 collection in the most refreshing way, subverting fashion show conventions. A gang of well-trimmed Eastern European men hung around the gym, posing and pumping iron, while showing off the spectacular streetstyle designs. To the sound of live violins, the press was let into the room in small groups and snuck around staring at the tough-looking guys.

The clothes were, like last season’s, a streetwearinspired collection of jackets, tracksuits, shorts, T-shirts and shirts with all the well-known characteristics of sportswear, but twisted into something of its own with the choice of fabrics and composition of color and trim.

Shiny polyester, soft jersey and lace were collection cornerstones with details like gold zippers and large red terry cloth letters. The look was All Stars basketball meets street gangsta meets eighties Yugoslavian Olympic Team (some shirts even had Yugoslavia written across the chest).

The whole setup was a contradiction. Masculine euro hunks wrapped in delicate pink lace (the tight shorts were fabulous!), streetwear and violins, muscles in transparent mesh — but it worked perfectly and demonstrated why Astrid Andersen is on the fast track in the fashion world.

— page 24 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

BY MALENE BIRGER

OVER THE RAINBOW Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen

Photo — Sacha Maric

Color blocking is great.

Color blocking in black in white is even greater!

And Malene Birger did not let anyone down when she in a truly grand style presented her new collection in front of royalty and nobility, rockstars and celebrities, press and buyers, with a parade of beautifully tailored clothes for day and night in her signature colors.

But she also took everyone on a trip over the rainbow.

The finale saw all the models clad in midi-length sideslit sheaths in sequins, ranging from white and ivory and matte silver and gold to rose, rust, blue green, and, of course, black. Wow! The trip also took us to destinations like Morocco and the Mediterranean, as reflected in ivory trousers and tunics with black embroidery, white eyelet embroidery dresses reminiscent of the summers of love in the 60s, and fluid, Halston-like disco jersey-dresses.

Birger also took us to the big city, where her new suede stilettos in an array of different colors are needed to steer clear of the crowds in her re-introduction of the 70s culottes, the pant that is almost a skirt, cut both mid-leg and full length. She landed safely with her many different examples of successful color blocking.

All it took was two colors that complement each other in a well-cut, soft silk shirt and equally flattering pants.

And she had plenty of that.

— page 25 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

DENNIS LYNGSØ

HIP IMPRESSIONS Words — Sille Henning

Photo — Sacha Maric

Expectations were high when show schedule first-timer Dennis Lyngsø, who last year won two prestigious design awards within a few months, presented his Spring/Summer 2011 collection at City Hall.

The collection was sculptural, emphasizing the female silhouette with his preferred focal point — the hips. Combined with the voluminous teased hair and dark make-up, the many cut-out effects gave the collection a dramatic feel. A predominantly black scheme was broken only by a few sandy colored pieces. Materials like raffia and linen were reworked in a way that gave the impression of leather — but the real thing was also there.

It was an intriguing collection that pointed towards a future in couture and costume design rather than commercial retail, with Lyngsøs strength lying in his evening gowns.

DESIGNSKOLEN KOLDING

A HARMONY OF VISIONS Words — Rikke Dyrholm

Photo — Sacha Maric

Friday morning, nine graduate students from Designskolen Kolding (Kolding School of Design) solved the riddle of how to harmonize the innate differences amongst design school students to deliver a coherent and complete show. Despite the natural distinctive traits, the show as a whole reflected a contemporary order in fashion — power and simplicity.

The themes circled around Nordic virtues, mysterious cities and ancient lands. Dichotomies of new versus old, natural versus artificial, and noisy versus quiet lent an experimental edge to the graduates’ visions.

The focus varied from playful native-inspired prints, circus ballerina, rainwear-inspired Nordic attitude and modern luxury and French art, and yes, somehow the fresh designers maintained a united path in equilibrium. The hues reflected the inspirations, with earthy shades in interaction with primary colors.

Kolding’s graduates demonstrated a maturity that omitted the artistic excesses typical of graduate shows, committing to a downplayed, ready-to-wear attitude and a more serious approach to business.

— page 26 —

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DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

HELJE HAMRE

SILKY SMOOTH AND FLUID Words — Moussa Mchangama

Photo — Sacha Maric

Helje Hamre is the name of another Norwegian debut this Fashion Week. At City Hall, he presented fluid fabrics and rough leather, making a collection for the working girl who needs to look good — for both day and night.

Loose high-waisted pants looked beautiful in both black and deep petroleum. The long grey evening dress was also something to keep an eye on, with its high slit and fluid silky fabric.

It was a smooth collection that boasted both feminine pieces, such as a girly black dress with white lines, and masculine features like leather pants, worn with a long, grey, armless silk shirt. The gorgeous leather jacket worn last gave the show a masculine finish. Skirts made out of long hair were fun, styled with white tops or skirts underneath, and a black skirt with leather detailing would work well for the girl who needs to look great at the office.

— page 28 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

HENRIK VIBSKOV

THERE IS ALWAYS A DOOR OPEN Words — Moussa Mchangama

Photo — Sacha Maric

The Henrik Vibskov show is always one of the most anticipated events during Copenhagen Fashion Week. The installation, the party-like feeling, the many please-take-my-photo-for-your-blog-dressed fashionistas and the creative designer’s playful collections put it high in demand.

As always, there wasn’t one specific theme to the collection. Vibskov had been studying pictures of old miners, which could be seen in jackets that resembled old workman clothing. On the other end of the spectrum, dresses for the girls had abstract floral prints made with watercolors. There were both petroleum and reds for boys and girls, with small variations in nuances.

Leather is perforated in the collection and used for both genders. The silhouette is a bit slimmer than before, but we’re still talking oversize (with cords in the waist to accentuate the hip) with some leggings and trousers in between.

Vibskov’s universe is still playful and fun, but if you see the pieces one-on-one you’ll see that it’s also more mature — and that suits the designs well.

— page 29 —

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Shows —

MAXJENNY

STRIKE OF THE STRIPES Words — Stinne Jensen

Photo — Sacha Maric

Sustainable fabrics, bright colors and a playful approach to dress-making pretty much sums up MAXJENNY, a first-timer on Copenhagen Fashion Week’s show schedule. The design concept focused on how to drape soft jersey fabrics in as many different ways as possible, and this mostly resulted in a variation of loose dresses, shawls and capes on the runway.

Colors were bright orange, cobalt blue and pink, always broken by black stripes. A family of colored check patterns gave a few styles a sporty look and black was used as base throughout.

The spirit of the collection was happy and almost naive — an impression echoed by the Alice in Wonderland collage film playing in the background. All styles looked comfortable and easy to wear. Among the standout were the Sonia Rykiellike striped cardigans, printed wrap dresses and voluminous daytime dresses. Not to forget MAXJENNYS signature, rounded jacket with batwing sleeves and high collars, shown in every imaginable color combination.

R/H

JUNGLE FEVER AND HIPPIE Words — Moussa Mchangama

Photo — Sacha Maric

R/H is a Finnish fashion duo consisting of Hanna Riiheläinen and Emilia Hernesniemi, who both graduated from the University of Art & Design in Helsinki in 2003.

Their universe is feminine, and the show sent models with green wreaths and scarves around their heads down the runway, behind which a psychedelic kaleidoscope video was playing. Walking in low-heeled Swedish Hasbeens, the models wore pieces of knitted lace, light pastels and denim. Fringes were abundant — on the knees, on the side of trousers, on jackets in denim and on blouses. A jungle-inspired print on dresses, pants and a cute silk top added some growl to the collection.

Transparency was another big tendency here, with both black and blue transparent pants, dresses and tops, revealing just enough skin for young female bloggers to go crazy and dress accordingly.

— page 30 —

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DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Very Important Princesses —

MADS NØRGAARD Words — Magnus Jorem

Designer Peter Jensen enjoys a fashion beer with a key member of the Mads Nørgaard regiment.

Photographer — Thomas Degner

Disc jockeys Ingrid and Emma Leth provided the musical equivalent of Balenciaga.

This bad-ass fashion fiend proves that the classic stripes loved by Nørgaard are magnets for sweet lady company.

Fashionable man-machine Thor waited for requests to take a swing with his,erh, hammer...

Lady Gaga made an appearance, but oddly, she spoke Swedish.

OLE YDE

Yet another London-based hipster killing himself softly..

Words — Magnus Jorem

Photographer — Thomas Degner

THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL THRONGED TO TWO SUNNY EVENTS HOSTED BY DESIGNERS OLE YDE AND MADS NØRGAARD.

High-profile socialite Cath Alexandrine DanneskioldSamsøe may be all smiles, but secretly harbors a desire for more champagne.

Now.

Scoop’s model-mama Bente with one of her “new faces”, highprofile socialite Rigmor Zobel.

True sartorialists always coordinate their colors with their surroundings.

Shrink-fashionista Sarah Zobel with an alleged celebrity.

Designer Ole Yde, master of glamour and the event’s center of attention

Fashion journalist Sille Henning palled around with countess Jean Ahlefeldt-Laurvig.

— page 32 —

Oscar. Suzdal.. Vladimir Obla!. Ru"ia.

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Very Important Princesses —

CFW PARTY: GIVING BACK Words — Magnus Jorem

Model Agnete with a-Mew-sing rockstar boyfriend.

Models Vala, Hanni and Bettina have, like, posed before, you know.

Photographer — Frederik Kastrupsen

Disc Jockey Rasmus Stabell and pal were thrilled to give a little something back.

A naughty leopard-patterned Emilie Møller joins her CFW-colleague Anne Fiercesson in giving the journalists an intimate welcome.

SHARING IS CARING, AND THIS YEAR’S COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK PARTY WAS ALL ABOUT GIVING BACK. Composer Thomas Troelsen hides behind busty babe trophy wife.

Dior-face Victor stole all the looks with his aristocratic friend.

DANSK PARTY Words — Magnus Jorem

Creative director Kim Grenaa finds designer Charlotte Eskildsen’s inability to look into the camera quite atrocious.

Photographer — Simon B Mørch

OUR MOMMY-PUBLICATION DANSK THREW A HARD-HITTING PARTY FRIDAY NIGHT WITH LOADS OF CAMPARI AND LOADS OF FAME. Photography phenomenon Rasmus Skousen texting his other knockout female model friend — he needs two to satisfy his mojo!

This is what the two namesakes of creative agency Grenaa/Buchard looked like in the early hours of their party.

Morning TV’s Ann Lind palling around with pop provocateur Medina.

Our photographer Simon uses the self timer to capture himself with gorgeous modeling sensation Mathias.

— page 34 —

Campari Battle Round Five for actresses Iben Hjejle and Ellen Hillingsø.

GRAPHIC DESIGN ART DIRECTION OF DANSK MAGAZINE

GRAPHIC DESIGN ART DIRECTION OF DANSK MAGAZINE

WWW.DESIGNUNIT.DK

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Look of the day —

LOOK OF THE DAY BY MAX FACTOR Words — Mikkel Hyldebrandt

Photo — Simon B. Mørch

Show — Dennis Lyngsø

LOOK INTO MY EYES THE MAKE UP The enigmatic chic and seductive femininity from the show has been transferred almost oneto-one to the makeup look. The skin is flawless and bears almost no innocent flush to the cheeks, the lips are stained with a flash of red, and the eyes, oh, those eyes, practically absorb all of the attention paid to the face.

Ranging from dark grey to the blackest black the eyes become pools of seduction that will surely ensnare anyone with a bat of the mascara-drenched lash. Black eyeliner has even been applied to the inner eye, making the illusion of deep black complete.

THE HAIR The hair is a stylish combination of sexy sleekness and backcombed frizz. A ponytail is placed high up on the head and is backcombed to give it lots of upward volume. The front of the hair is slicked down to create the perfect contrast between structure and chaos.

KEY PRODUCTS Max Factor Smoky Eye Effect, Onyx — Max Factor Earth Spirit Single, Onyx nr. 110 Max Factor Liquid Effect Eyeliner, black — Max Factor False Lash Effect Fusion Mascara Max Factor Lip Tint nr. 9 Passion Red — Wella Professionals Thermal Image Wella Professionals Stay Styled — Wella Professionals Pearl Styler

— page 36 —

DEN SVENSKE VITAMINDRIK

DANSK DAILY Saturday 06.08.2011 — Schedule —

SHOWS

Saturday 06.08.2011 AVIA OF SCANDINAVIA 10, Bella Sky Ballroom and CIFF Auditorium Hall, Center Boulevard 5, Copenhagen S By invitation only

EVENTS

Saturday 06.08.2011 BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN TEA PARTY 10.00-17.00, The Royal Café , Amagertorv 6, Copenhagen K Open to the public KOPENHAGEN FUR DESIGN EXHIBITION 10.00-18.00, Illums Bolighus , Amagertorv 10, Copenhagen K Open to the public MARC BY MARC JACOBS X ELLE PRESENTS VISION AVANTGARDE 14.00-17.00, CPH Vision, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V Open to the public HEINEKEN AFTERHOUR 17.00-18.00, Terminal-2, Building OBV 037, Otto Busses Vej 51, Copenhagen SV By invitation only NINETY AT NINE CELEBRATION 21.00-06.00, Teaterkælderen, Gl. Kongevej 29, Copenhagen K After 23.00 open to the public THE OFFICIAL COPENHAGEN FASHION FAIRS CLOSING PARTY 21.30-05.00, Marriott Hotel, Kalvebod Brygge 5, Copenhagen V By invitation only FW PARTY AT TOLBODEN BY SCOOP MODELS, ARMANI COLLEZIONI, SHAMBALLA JEWELS & CPH FINEST Copenhagen K Tolboden, 22.00-05.00, Nordre Tolbod 24 THE AUTHENTIC FINAL FASHION WEEK PARTY 22.30-04.00, Kødboderne 3, Copenhagen V By invitation only PAUL SMITH SHOES IN COLLABORATION WITH HACKETT LONDON, EUROMAN AND SOUND OF COPENHAGEN 23.00-05.00, Simons, Store Strandstræde 14, Copenhagen K THE OFFICIAL FASHION WEEK CLOSING PARTY BY DANISH FASHION INSTITUTE & WORLD’S FINEST CLUBS 23.00-05.00, Zen, Nørregade 41, Copenhagen K

FASHION FESTIVAL Saturday 06.08.2011

REFRESHING BUBBLES AND BEAUTIFUL JAZZ MUSIC 13.00-15.00, Tommy Hilfiger, Østergade 26, Copenhagen K

GET STYLED AND PHOTOGRAPHED! 11.00-16.00, Whiite, Kronprinsensgade 7, Copenhagen K

Tommy Hilfiger invites you to an afternoon of refreshing bubbles and beautiful music. The jazz/rock trio Baby Barbarella play delightful classics while you discover the Hilfiger universe.

Head to WHIITE in Kronprinsensgade, where you can have makeup applied by MAC Cosmetics and get styled in their Autumn/Winter 2011 collection. After the styling, you’ll get your picture taken by a professional photographer and receive your personal WHIITE cover on a CD. Bubbly refreshments served.

FABULOUS DJ’S AND MASSIVE VISUALS 22.30-?, KB3, Kødboderne 3,Vesterbro Meatpaking District VS. Magazine & Gallery Fashion Fair throws an authentic final party hosted by Unique Models, A.Naselli & Jean von Baden. Lineup: Lulu Rouge, Jean von Baden, DJ Flip, Nico Muzzleflash, Brynjolfur, Malou & Erikka, and Tonnovi.

HIGH FASHION HITS THE STREET 14.00-16.00, Apair, Ny Østergade 3, Copenhagen K

PARTY WITH THE FASHION FAIRS 21.00-?, Copenhagen Mariott Hotel, Kalvebod Brygge 5, Copenhagen V, entrance only by invitation.

Apair is ready with another fashion show in front of its store, this time featuring David Andersen’s first women’s collection.

Copenhagen Fashion Fairs’ final party goes off at the Mariott Hotel Saturday night. Celebrate with a fantastic DJ lineup, glam-inspired dancefloors and surprises.

JEWELLERY SHOW AT GALLERI K 12.00-13.00, Susanne Friis Bjørner Copenhagen, Galleri K, Østergade 32,Copenhagen K

FASHION SATURDAY IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD 14.00-18.00, The Grønnegade Neighbourhood, Copenhagen K

NINETY AT NINE 23.00-?, Teaterkælderen, Gammel Kongevej 29, Copenhagen K

Successful Danish jeweller Susanne Friis Bjørner Copenhagen celebrates Copenhagen Fashion Festival with a grand show at Galleri K, with live DJ’s, contests and refreshments. Open to all

It’s time to head to the Grønnegade neighbourhood in the heart of Copenhagen, where an energetic array of designers and shops welcome you to an afternoon of styling, fashion, music, drinks and contests.

Secrecy and surprise are the key words in this celebration of Italian fashion and lifestyle. The event revolves around the celebration of the 90th anniversary of one of Italy’s leading luxury fashion houses.

— page 38 —

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