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AUTUMN / WINTER 2013

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02ND

THE CULTURE CLUB

REVIEWS

IVAN GRUNDAHL | BIBI CHEMNITZ NOA NOA | GAIA | WOOD WOOD

BEAUTY

SPOT

HOMERUN IN HOMELAND SOULLAND

LOOK OF THE DAY PETER JENSEN COVER PHOTO WOOD WOOD BY SIMON B. MØRCH


dansk daily

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Wh at th e f utur e ho lds Editorial

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen

Just like the rest of our society, the future of fashion lies in the hands of the next generation. Not only from the creative point of view, but ever so importantly in the business aspect as an integral part of fashion. No ideas, no money — no success. In the course of these hectic four days, everybody is in constant competition for attention, and every season we see new brands emerge on the show calender, wanting to test their talents on broader audiences. There are success stories like Anne Sofie Madsen, Astrid Andersen, Asger Juel Larsen and Freya Dalsjö, but time and again we have come across new designers and brands whose talent and concept have not been sufficiently strong from the beginning in order to succeed on the circuit.

The whole idea of fashion is change, and as much as we welcome new visionaries, they should be ready — on all levels — to meet the hard demands of the fashion world of today.

rector and fashion designer Bruno Pieters, as if he had been asked for advice on this matter. But his quote emerged yesterday in conjuction with new actions from Designers’ Nest, the annual New Talent award at Vision.

Copenhagen Fashion Week is the platform where primarily Danish and Scandinavian fashion is promoted and supported, and for the sake of all parties — designers, buyers and media — perhaps the brands, and not just the young ones, should put even more consideration into the choice of whether to market themselves on the runway or by other means, so as not to be disappointed by the outcome.

In collaboration with Designers’ Nest, Bruno Pieters and American fashion journalist Kristopher Arden-Houser are announcing the world’s first academic fashion prize that will reward the winner with a mentorship at the August 2013 fashion fair in Copenhagen, aimed at developing a unique product collaboration to be presented six months later.

”As a child I dreamed of fashion, as an adult I realized that I needed to wake up so the dream could continue,” says Belgian art di-

This could serve as inspiration for the fashion establishment to help create a more sustainable environment for all new talents, and to give Copenhagen Fashion Week a new challenge as a fashion intermediary.

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EDITORIAL

Contributors PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Kasper Fjederholt, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt Web Editor / Editorial Assistant Rikke Charlotte Larsen

Editorial assistant Julie Christine Kühne WRITERS Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning FashionForum Naja Helene Hertzum, Anne Kongsbak PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Mathilde Schmidt Jonas Dahl Grue, Copenhagen Fashion Week Sales Representative Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Louise Hansen, Julie Christine Kühne, Sabine Lyneborg PRINT Berlingske Avistryk


w w w. o l e ly n g g a a r d . d k j e w e l l e r y d e s i g n c h a r l o t t e & o l e ly n g g a a r d •

50th a n n i v e r s a r y c e l e b r at i o n visit our flagship stores • copenhagen city centre: ny østergade 4 copenhagen airport: nytorv • stoc kholm c it y c entre: hamngatan 11


dansk daily

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A KISS OF FASHION EXPERTISE

Head to Copenhagen Fashion Festival’s website any time during fashion week to check out acute sartorial oberservations in blog form by the fabulous BISOU blogger collective.

www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com

Exhibiting the Danish bacon The Dansk Daily team adores the colorful 2012 Bel Sac campaign featuring Danish top model Gertrud Hegelund. Rumor has it that the face of next season’s Bel Sac campaign will another top-notch Dane. We don’t kiss and tell, but a hint is that she has been the face of Balenciaga for the last two seasons. We’re looking forward to it!

Make some noise This season, Copenhagen Fashion Week has, for the first time ever, teamed up with Noise PR as its media partner in crime. Noise PR has a highly focused PR department which, besides Copenhagen Fashion Week, handles public relations for brands like Freya Dalsjö, youheshe.com, Nag Store and Noa Noa. Besides the fashion department, Noise PR takes care of our health and wellbeing with its beauty department, which has brands like Oriflame and Moroccanoil as clients. Wanna make some noise? www.noisepr.dk

A fire to admire

Outlet heaven near Copenhagen

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news

Less than an hour away from fashionable Copenhagen you’ll find an even more fashionable city — at least when it comes to outlet stores of clothing both Danish and international. Ringsted Outlet is a small Mecca of more affordable items with no lack in quality; and is for your information the only real outlet village in Denmark. In 2013, Ringsted Outlet will just be getting bigger, when Superdry opens a grand outlet store. Don’t know what to do next weekend? Grab your loved ones and spend a shopping day at Ringsted Outlet. www.ringstedoutlet.dk

Let there be light! The new fire buckets by MENU are both visually pleasing and ultra-practical. With clear references to the warm inviting fireplaces of summer nights past, Norm Fire Buckets serve as a source of light, warmth, and homely calm. With a clean, simple and very Nordic expression, the fire bucket lights up your garden or porch. Made in stainless steel, it will serve you in all kinds of weather (which is basically a must in Scandinavian winters). The designers behind Norm, Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen and Kasper Rønn, strive for timelessness in all aspects of their work. They worship minimalism and functionality, and endeavour to design products that meet real-life needs while pleasing all of our senses at the same time. www.menu.as


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dansk daily

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The kids are alright

Louisiana x Pop Art The next big exhibition at contemporary art museum Louisiana is ‘Pop Art Design,’ coming this spring. Scandinavian childrenswear brands are thriving, and with four kids shows this season, a need for an independent kids schedule arose. Here you can find all events, shows, and trade fair activities related to childrenswear. The Kids schedule will improve service for the increasing number of childrenswear media and buyers. Check out the schedule at www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Pop Art is one of the most influential art movements of the post-war years. The dialogue between art and design in the years 1955-72 was massive and has been of crucial importance to the influence of Pop Art ever since. The exhibition elucidates the complex character of the phenomenon and illustrates how images and subjects mix, creating new connections between images and objects, subjecting standard genres to new pressures and establishing new ones.  You can see the exhibition from February 22—June 9. www.louisiana.dk

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news

Flying in style Copenhagen Aiport is stylish in and of itself, but becomes even more so during Copenhagen Fashion Week and beyond, when a pop-up lounge will focus on Danish design and inspirational fashions. Named ”Fashion Your Way,” the lounge will show exhibits by Danish fashion icons such as designers Silas Adler and Trine Wackerhausen, editors Frederik Lenz Andersen from Euroman and Cecilie Christiansen from Danish Elle, CEO Christian Stadil from Hummel and singer Aura Dione. Besides fashion inspiration, there will also be cocktails and delicious canapées. The lounge, situated in an extention to the taxfree area, is open for all visitors, departing and arriving, until March 3.

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne loves Altewai.Saome

I’m always on the lookout for new emerging talent in Scandinavia, and Altewai.Saome is definitely one of the most interesting brands to come out of Sweden in the last couple of years. Can’t wait to see their AW13 collection.


Designer father Preben Lind and business daughter Bine Lind have found a niche with The MAT, for which they recycle leather from furniture, handbags, and car seats — and combine it with natural rubber — to achieve a functional and sturdy material. Danish manufacturers transform it into contemporary and cool lifestyle products for office and living spaces, and for personal use, like iPad covers and bags.

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Cool recycling

dansk daily

QUALITY TIME

THE DAILY GEM Veteran accessories design brand DyrbergKern have withstood the turbulence of the markets by sticking to their core competence: affordable quality products that bridge fashion jewelry with fine jewelry by using noble steel and Swarowski crystals in their trademark clean design. ”In this day and age, women tend to look for fashion and accessories that are longer lasting, and our Icons collection offers classic cool jewelry that doesn’t feel outdated after a few seasons. Since we’re constantly exposed to new fads and trends on all media platforms, our customers need something secure to hold on to,” says Henning Kern of DyrbergKern. But they also cater to the trend-oriented segment, and for spring/summer they tempt with the Sinners & Saints collection, which spans from a devilish look of dark silver, black stones, and leather to the lighter angelic and romantic look. ”We expect a lot of women to embellish themselves with leather bracelets, cool and sexy earrings, and rocker-inspired neck-chains. For night, it will be in full bling with sexy hoops and big cocktail rings. And for those on the quiet side, tennis and click-on bracelets.” ”We are constantly looking for new expressions while staying true to our DNA, and the best reward after 28 years in the business is to see women around the world wearing our design,” says Henning Kern. News provided by fashionforum.dk

www.lindna.com

Musical chairs at By Malene Birger’s Danish brand By Malene Birger, which graces celebs like British duchess Kate Middleton, gets a new CEO. Charlotte Egelund has so far taken up the seat as retail director but replaces former CEO Lars Andresen in January. ”There was not a doubt in my mind when they asked me. I’m extremely excited to play a greater role in the future strategy for By Malene Birger and the development of the brand,” states a happy new CEO. News provided by fashionforum.dk

KAREN’S COOL CAVE Karen by Simonsen, a breakaway brand from Munthe+Simonsen, opens its own first stand-alone store. The new flagship store in Copenhagen will carry not only the Karen by Simonsen main line but also the new diffusion line 5 Elements by Karen. The 5 Elements collection is based upon a one-of-a-kind concept, meaning that each style is produced in a — very — limited number. page 7

news

Karen by Simonsen, St. Regnegade 3, Copenhagen K.


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Sneak a peek  Couldn’t we all do with losing a couple of pounds after winter has found its way onto our thighs? Now you can be sporty and look fashionable at the same time. Weekday is growing, and is set to launch its newest brand soon. The new kid on the block is called 1440, described as a sportier fashion brand for both women and men. The designer behind is the very talented Nhu Duong, who has a predilection for extreme sports built on the color scale of black and white with a slice of neon, silver, and the everlasting pastel universe. Spring cannot come quickly enough! Run down to your nearest Weekday store, where 1440 will be launching.

Swirly patterns on display

News provided by fashionforum.dk

The Danish Design Museum in Copenhagen is going British these days. On display are 17 printed textiles from the British post-war period, from the early 50s to the late 70s. In the exhibition, you’ll find beauties from design stars such as Lucienne Day and Evelyn Redgrave, and all the textiles have been donated to the Danish museum by London-based textile collector Francesca Galloway. Post-war British Textiles (ends September 2013) Designmuseum Danmark, Bredgade 66, Copenhagen K. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 am – 5 pm (Wednesday until 9 pm)

Curious already? Check out www.weekday.com & www.nhuduong.com

Focus on men

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news

News provided by fashionforum.dk

Instead of the traditional trend show, CIFF at Bella Center has invented the new showcase space Crystal Hall, which will house a mix of the world’s most forward-looking lifestyle- and menswear brands, curated by Pierre Tzenkoff and Arnaud Vanraet with CIFF Fashion & Design Director Kristian W. Andersen. Crystal Hall was specially designed for CIFF by renowned scenographer Jean Christophe Aumas, who has worked with the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, including Louis Vuitton, Celine and Dior. The event is open every afternoon to everyone visiting the fair.

Muuse’s musings

Muuse has crowned young Turkish designer Ece Gözen talent of the year 2012. The Muuse x Vogue Talents Young Vision Award 2012 provides the winner with display and sale of her capsule collection on Muuse.com and a feature on Vogue.it. Danish Muuse is a primarily online platform that helps young designers all over the world get the recognition they deserve by providing production, sales, PR and logistics aid. www.muuse.com

News provided by fashionforum.dk


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Scoop Models is one of Scandinavia’s leading model agencies, with mother model Bente Lundquist (former top model herself )’s more than 20 years in the fashion industry she has created a strong network in the business and is representing a strong spectrum of high fashion models and still introducing new talents.

dansk daily

SCOOPELICIUS

Among her super model team you find Marikka who at the moment are walking down the runway at Alexander Wang, Gucci and Proenza Schouler doing campaign jobs for Mango, Top Shop and Bitte Kai Rand and not to forget she is captured in high fashion magazines Harper’s Bazaar UK & DANSK. But that’s not all! Bente is also the mother of the three Balenciaga girls Juliane, Kirstin and Julier. But not to forget at Scoop you also find some handsome eye-candy. Around the world in shows for Dior, Louis Vuitton and Prada, on the cover of Euroman and in the H&M Campaign you will find the gorgeous Scoop guys Mikkel Jensen, Victor Nylander, Henrik F and Mathias Lauridsen.

Gimme gimme more Turn your life into a vibrant fairy tale with Oriflame’s highest pigmentation lipstick and nail polish ever, from the new collection More by Demi. With actress Demi Moore’s Hollywood glamour and allure, you’ll get the boldest, richest color and saturation you’ve ever witnessed. The line’s six stunning shades provide the ultimate intensity in color with an extra finish — turning your chromatic fantasies into reality. Like a Hollywood glamour these colours will resist to fade and will retain a everlasting high-gloss finish. Dare to shine like a star – now you definitely will. www.oriflame.dk

Triumphant lingerie despite tough times

www.scoopmodels.com

Editor’s pick of the day I love the combination of edgy leather inspired by the original biker jacket done by Sand in a soft feminine version in dusty pastel.

Lingerie giant Triumph has a clear strategy: specific products for specific markets. In China, Triumph is all about colors, patterns, and lots of sass, whereas the Western customer gets a more muted brand. But the crisis has taken its toll on Triumph, explains head of sales and retail Søren Steffensen (yes, he’s a Dane): ”Underwear is not a must-have as such. It’s not all that visible, so of course we’ve felt the crisis. But we’ve decided to use the climate for our own benefit: We need to be proactive so that we’ll be the ones the customers remember once the crisis is over.”

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News provided by fashionforum.dk


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Voila — three new Bestseller brands Danish colossus Bestseller with — ahem — bestselling brands like Jack & Jones and ONLY under its belt launches not one, not two, but three new brands this spring: There’s the plus-size wholesale brand JunaRose covering European sizes from 42-52, the ONLY diffusion line Jaqueline de Young, and then there’s Noisy May, which adds a younger, more denimy touch to the Vero Moda stores. All in all, there’s plenty to check out this year when you visit one of the more than 800 Vero Moda stores worldwide.

News provided by fashionforum.dk

Inside Copenhagen Christian Gether

More than fashion

Director of Arken, Christian Gether, is no stranger to fashion. He recently incorporated clothes in the successful exhibition ”India: Art Now,” and the museum of modern art just south of Copenhagen now enjoys a hip crowd for their Damien Hirst show. Where do you go for a unique shopping experience in Copenhagen? I had the pleasure of working with Rasmus Storm on the India exhibit, and I really like his boutique in Store Regnegade for the very personal mix of fashion brands and lifestyle products. What’s the best place to eat dinner in Copenhagen? I like to take guests and curators visiting Arken to Tivolihallen in Vester Voldgade, a classic yet innovative ”smørrebrød” restaurant (open-face sandwich), where it’s not just about nostalgia. Famo on Vesterbrogade is an Italian favorite for dinner, because they keep developing the classic menu. What’s your favorite spot in the city? I like Bredgade, starting from bustling Nyhavn, with it’s generous mix of art galleries, auction houses, vintage furniture stores and Designmuseum Danmark.

News provided by fashionforum.dk

Taking a holistic approach to lifestyle as more than the clothes we wear, the Øksnehallen venue hosts the ambitious fair Defining Scandinavia this fashion week for the very first time. The hope is to build a trading platform for established and up-and-coming brands in the field of Scandinavian interior design and living, and judging by the impressive roster of exhibitors, the organizers have struck a chord among the purveyors of good taste, among those Chimalaya. www.definingscandinavia.com

Costume drama Don’t be embarrased if you just want to kick back on Sunday nights in March when the third season of the critically acclaimed upstairsdownstairs costume drama ”Downton Abbey” premieres on DR1. It’s called fashion research! The previous seasons of the show have already inspired the likes of Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, and with all the rage of the roaring twenties arriving with the world premiere of Baz Luhrman’s remake of ”The Great Gatsby” in May, it’s good to be prepared. ”Downton Abbey” also moves into the 1920s, though with more subtle styles than those revealed from the Gatsby-set.

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Creative editor Rozanna loves THE aw 2013 COLLECTION FROM GANNI www.ganni.dk


DANISH DESIGN

Bel Sac clutch i ægte pythonskind, håndmalet i Italien


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Homerun in homeland

SOUL LA N D words Rikke Dyrholm photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Thursday night, City Hall oozed of boldness and beauty with fashion folks drinking bottled beers, as Soulland presented its AW13 collection from the hands of designer chief Silas Adler.

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SHOWS

Sporting shirts, chinos, cable knits, casual blazers, sweats, knee-long shorts and classical outerwear like pilot- and western jackets, the collection radiated a crisp and modern take on classic menswear fashion. A new line of suits in mixed wool suited the brand well in a fine balance with a hint of Soulland’s street audacity.

Recurring details included chinos casually folded at the bottom, prints of childinspired drawings and dots, baseballs, geeky Boy Scout emblems, and embroidered shirts. It was street with sporty undertones. T-shirts with printed baseball references indicated that Soulland embodies the team spirit. The main colors were off-white, beige, grey and navy mixed with a royal blue and a sharp pink, an awesome cheeky standout.

Soulland’s new collaboration with Danish accessories brand Adax on a line of bags showed high quality and design, travel- and tote bags held in an eye-catching camel, underlining the classical turn Soulland has taken. Soulland’s AW13 collection showed a high level of wearability, the classic turning lending the label maturity, a growth well suited for a brand that’s energetically charging ahead. Homerun to team Soulland.


Messe: For um-Galler y stand 021

Model: Marikka Juhler / Scoop Models

WEBSHOP // w w w. b i t t e k a i r a n d . c o m


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NOA NOA

words Elsebeth Mouritzen photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Fashionably feminine Veteran fashion brand Noa Noa has enjoyed immense success for three decades with its layered, bohemian-inspired collections, but lately they have pared down the designs and silhouettes in favor of a more streamlined look, albeit without letting go of the soft and feminine details that are the DNA of the company.

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In the hands of stylist team Femmes Regionales, the clothes appeared simple and delicate on the runway in wearable combinations. They daringly mixed mustard yellow with chocolate brown and navy in colorblocking outfits, but also blended in some Indian-inspired pat-

terns. An ikat-print worked well in both blue and red viscose blouses and shirtdresses, but you had to imagine the pants or stockings to cover the long, bare legs strutting the runway in delicate high-heeled Oxfords or cool backzipped biker boots.

Always a staple in the Noa Noa collections, there was a smart slender military-inspired grey flannel coat to keep you warm, along with voluminous long cardigans and a cosy turtleneck poncho in earthy colors narrowed at the waist with slim colorful belts to add a little edge. Perhaps inspired by the Danish Crown Princess, who favors soft, feminine blouses paired with full-legged menswear trousers, the look of white and ivory viscose tops with delicate embroidery on the front and navy and black bottoms oozed of a new self assurance — that you don’t have to layer yourself to appear fashionable and feminine. Simple does it, too.


pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores

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PLACED Fifty shades of grey BY GIDEON words Sille Henning photo Gavin Davies

I didn’t know exactly what to expect at the Placed by Gideon show at the Stock Exchange yesterday — except that it was a men’s knitwear company founded in England in 2009 by the now Hong Kong/Macaubased emerging fashion designer Gideon Tam.

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However, it was a really a really nice and simple collection that demonstrated uses of

all kinds of little details in knitwear. Think Dead Poets Society with a touch of Hong Kong. I saw well-groomed men in simplistic tight dark-grey woolen pants mixed with all kinds of knits — from fine delicate ones to chunky cardigans, some plain and others more detailed, and some even with embroidery detailing on the back — all of course

kept in different shades of grey. It was in the mix between the different grey colors that most of the detailing was evident — whether as “color blocking” and just a darker grey lining, or as stripes. Placed by Gideon is not a brand that seeks revolution, but it showed some really nice knitwear for men.


Ganni.dk


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WO OD WOO D words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

The feel of Copenhagen

The inspiration for the Wood Wood ‘In The Club’ collection may have been New York City and its clashes of cultures and emotions, but what was visualized at the show Thursday night was nothing less than a supreme take on what traditional Danish fashion has to offer; the thoroughly designed, functional, creative and urban — that distinct feeling of cool was what oozed down the runway.

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The garments themselves were a diverse bunch, with a great mix of prints, fabrics,

colors and silhouettes — but what really (really!) worked was everything metallic (the heels, a shiny set in red/grey for women and a gorgeous dress in a perforated material, especially), truly great outerwear (a heavy bomber and a biker leatherjacket took the cake), and Wood Wood’s take on tailoring, which they’ve refined a bit since last season. A better fit on some of the trousers for men would work, but that’s a seriously small issue

in a collection that showcased a cool combination of colors and just felt, well, easy to love. They’re not trying too hard, over in this club. Back in the day, the Wood Wood show always packed the coolest crowd, hyping itself and creating a unique feel of Copenhagen cool. If anything, that feeling was back on Thursday night – and it makes it very, very difficult not to join the club when Wood Wood opens its doors.


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Modern simplicity

RI I S

words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Exactly one year ago to the day, the young designer Stine Riis won the H&M Design Award. Last August, she showed a collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week, but this time around it felt like she had produced an even more coherent entity in a well-rounded collection.

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The new RIIS collection is minimal and simple on the outside, but crafted with great skill on the inside. It’s a very slender silhouette she creates, with narrow pencil skirts, slim pants and light tops in silk or sheer fabrics, contrasted by some heavy and slouchy jackets. Hard, shining plastic is added for detail on a skirt, on the back of a sleeveless cloak, or as a belt — a fine contrast to the other materials that easily could have played a bigger part.

Colors were deep and rich, ranging from burgundy, purple, blue and bottle green to a clear orange that was inserted in the panels of two tops — some of the best looks in the collection. The designer’s tall, slim silhouette is both a strength and a weakness: when all the clothes are so body-conscious, getting them to fit in the right way is key. That let her down a couple of times, but overall it was a joy watching Stine Riis unfold a more coherent universe. What comes next only time will tell, but an expansion of her universe and more risk-taking would be great. She certainly has the talent and is someone of whom we can have very high hopes.


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IVAN GRUNDAHL words Rikke Dyrholm photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Young and fit

Kicking off with class, Ivan Grundahl’s Friday show at the Copenhagen Stock Exchange had models wear blue round sunglasses 80s style, black painted eyebrows and big black fluffy fuck-hair wigs with Liz Taylor flair. The Benjamin Button of Danish fashion, it seems the old man is only getting younger as the years pass. Once again, Grundahl’s collection dripped remarkable avant-garde garments and provided a fresh renewal for younger audiences.

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SHOWS

Besides his traditional heavy avant-garde

garments, the collection featured tulip- and balloon-shaped dresses, delicate tight suits in Prince of Wales checks, and skirts and jackets in fresh materials like neoprene, heavy color-blocked woolen outerwear with visible pockets, and hoodies. Stand-out elements that expressed a rawness suitable for the young and bold. Grundahl’s trademark army color was subdued in dusty and dark hues, complemented by medium brown, black, white, hues of grey,

contrasting with fresh prints and a glittering soft pastel. Among the standouts was a tulip dress in a delicate textured taffeta with thick white vertical stripes covering the front, and a wavy A-shaped long skirt in glittering black tulle, both styles amazingly chic and wearable for women of various ages. The models’ closing catwalk entrance — for which all they wore were black transparent panty hoses, leather shoes, and black tops with spaghetti straps — said it all. Ivan Grundahl knows how to dress — and undress — women of all ages.


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BIBI C HEMNI TZ words Rikke Dyrholm photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Hiking over Greenland’s ice

For the first time, Greenlandic designer Bibi Chemnitz showed her collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week. As a black-and-white movie of dogsled rides on Greenland’s inland ice was screened, the collection unfurled as a casual character mix of sport and street with a pop culture sentiment. Targeting both males and females, the collection was coherent in theme, with a color scale held primarily in black and white, hues of grey, a red, a royal blue, and a deep green. The materials were simple and contained a natural jogging

cotton quality, wool and synthetic overtones. In support of the theme, the fitting was, overall, loose and casual.

ted casually and sometimes oversized. The items oozed of Bibi’s native roots, warm and cozy. And ready for a cold hike over the inland ice.

The collection sported jogging pants, skirts, hoodies, knee-long skirts in soft quilted jogging, long warm jacket-looking cardigans with huge pockets, long vests, quilted bomber jackets, fit-

Non-chromatic prints gave graphic movement, shirts emblazoned with the words ‘Home Sick,’ reflecting the overall feel of Bibi’s strong attachment to Greenland. The collection seemed a bit safe, and was short on details. However, a fine contribution to young sporty streetwear was observed with delicious traces of pop and the Greenlandic wilderness.

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PETER JENS EN words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

From rags to riches

Peter Jensen truly deserved the award presented to him by Magasin du Nord’s foundation — the prize being the show itself as well as DKK 500,000. That was abundantly clear when the models hit the runway to the sound of live violins playing.

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He’s always inspired by a muse, and this time it was Vivian Nicholson, famous for saying “Spend, spend, spend!” after she won a ton of money in 1961. Viv went from rags to riches and back again, as she spent all the money and ended up in a strip club. That inspiration meant a wonderful downplayed dualism between her ups and downs, with a luxurious part featuring dresses and bags dotted with shimmering, oversized sequins, glittering golden

shoes for men, and faux astrakhan and mink. Simple, well made dresses and plain but beautiful prints of sausage dogs and dots played the other part. There was a 60s feel to it all, but as always with the whimsical designer, it felt up to date with Jensen’s use of vibrant colors and color blocks against blue, brown, and grey hues, really good dresses for both work and partying, and menswear with a good fit. This may have been about rags and riches, but there wasn’t anything cheap or overtly extravagant about it. Peter Jensen’s DNA shone all the way through, and when that works, it’s all about the beautiful clothes that make you smile and enjoy yourself.


ART DIRE CTION OF DANSK DAILY

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DES I GNER S Wearable innovations NES T words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

27 students from nine Nordic design schools took part in the 17th edition of the competition Designers’ Nest Award, the fashion award created in 2005 that aims to expose and promote up-andcoming Scandinavian designers — to global buyers, designers, the media and trendsetters.

These elements, perfectly executed, were evident in a beautiful, loose white wool velour coat, a black jacket with pointed double lapels, and a blouse with an open back in misty grey chiffon layered on top of eggshell white.

Sophie Sälekari & Hanna-Maaria Sinkkonen Amandah Andersson

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Nicklas Kunz

Camilla Jæger Jespersen

Björg Skarphéöinsdóttir

Runners up were Sophie Sälekari & HannaMaaria Sinkkonen, Aalto University School of Design, and Nicklas Kunz, Kondinf School of Design. Strangely not among the winners was Ida Klamborn, from the Swedish School of Textiles, with rather fantastic, wide asymmetrical stripes in pink on white or black, and Björg Skarpheödinsdottir, whose large yellow/green knit and gold used in a leather suit and in a long lurex coat lit up the catwalk at the Vision venue.

Ida Klamborn

The idea is to consolidate Denmark’s status as a fashion- and design nation, which is further advanced by having one of the world’s bestdressed women, Crown Princess Mary, as patron. Her Royal Highness turned up in a pretty, navy shirtdress with gold metal zips and an Aline skirt and handed Camilla Jæger Jespersen from TEKO Center, Denmark the Designers’ Nest Award. Worth 50,000 Danish krone.

The jury’s basic criteria for choosing a winner is innovation, creativity, craftsmanship and commercial potential, and these demands, considered fulfilled by the jury for its final choice, was explained by the chairman of the jury, Tom Steifel-Kristensen, as “wearable innovation that can still be commercialized and full of interesting hidden details.”


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dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

Arty avantgarde

2O R+BYYAT words Elsebeth Mouritzen photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Børsen, the distinguished Stock Exchange venue, was a striking contrast to the fashions of Finnish newcomer 2Or+By Yat on the Copenhagen show schedule with the designer’s pronounced avantgarde edge in both styling and design.

page 28

SHOWS

The collection addressed both men and women in a common theme of very artistic fringy tops in shiny silky ribbons resembling oversize crochet sweaters from the punk age, for

the male part teamed with roomy rustic pants and bronzed combat boots. With strong references to origami and other Asian influences, the female part of the collection took a more feminine, yet strong and arty direction with asymmetrical hem- and necklines, folded and draped skirts, done in satin, wool and textured fabrics. Many of them

sparkling like frost with lurex and crystals in the mostly blue, petrol, warm orange and charcoal hues. Interesting were individual shoulder pieces of leather with long, dancing fringes, which would give a little edge to even the most ordinary sweater of other origin. It wouldn’t be Finnish without prints, and designer Yat had transferred oversize patterns and pixels to several dresses, but his strongest asset was the interplay of textures.


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dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

READY TO F I SH words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Velcro velocity

Yesterday evening, the Dutch label Ready to Fish presented its autumn/winter 2013 collection at the Copenhagen Stock Exchange.

page 30

SHOWS

It was an easy and urban collection, with understated silhouettes and a focus on functionality in details, with lots of sporty references like Velcro closures, drawstring waistbands, mesh, snap buttons, and double-faced jersey with a neoprene feel.

There were washable cotton suits with zip and Velcro-fastening at the bottom of the trousers, button-through dresses with adjustable elastic waistbands, and bomber-inspired jackets with Velcro closure. There were many zipper details like a mélange tunic with big visible pockets at the hips and a zip closure at the front, and other dresses with sizable back zippers.

The colors were mainly kept in the spirit of autumn, with varying tones of browns, greys, blues, greens and burnt orange — and of course a plentitude of mélange. It was a nice collection of easily wearable everyday clothes by a womenswear label that also makes furniture and music.


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29/01/13 21.31


dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

Peru meets Scandinavia

AYNI CP H words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Today for you, tomorrow for me — that is the meaning of ”Ayni” in Quechua, an old Peruvian language spoken in the Andes Mountains.

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SHOWS

Ayni CPH is the name of the fashion label founded by Lærke Skyum Blichfeldt who, along with a team, is responsible for developing the brand, based on Peruvian products produced at their origin location in Peru with traditional techniques and methods. The knitting is done by peasants in the mountains and the whole idea is to make ethical, sustainable collections, with respect for nature and no harm done to the environment — and thus promote Peru as a favorable production venue for the fashion industry. Alpaca, Pima cotton, silk and bamboo are Peruvian specialities — some of the materials used by houses like Prada, Ralph Lauren and Lacoste.

Ayni CPH’s good intentions are meant to be sublimated into the collection inspired by Peruvian cultures and Scandinavian styles. The knits are certainly of a high quality, but in order to be trendy and desirable, the design needs to be modern, to have an edge. That also entails professional styling, make up, hair and cut, in order to carry off the intentions of the brand. Spot on, however, in different kinds of knit, were sandcolored long cable knit sweaters and short peplum jackets in intricate patterns, as were beige sweaters with spike embroidery on the shoulders. And a thick crème beige sweater dress and heavy cardigans striped in turquoise beige and white were simply gorgeous.


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dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

GA I A words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Play with colors Danish designer Gaia, who has always been known for her colorful knits, presented her autumn winter 2013 collection late last night at Copenhagen City Hall.

page 34

SHOWS

This season, the designer had drawn inspiration from various historical painters, which definitely influenced the picturesque color palette, which went from crispy white and dusty pink to bright green and cobolt blue.

There were of course knits a-plenty; from her well-known trompe l’oeil effects and more ethnic folklore inspiration to minimalistic color-blocking. This season, the designer also had worked with merging different kinds of knit, which created an interesting

play in the design and an almost three-dimensional effect. Also, big crystals and other different kinds of embellishesments added to the 3D effect — some more successfully than others. The collection also consisted of flattering pleated trousers, short skirts, long tunics and feminine shirts, some in the colors and patterns of the knitting and others, such as the oversized houndstooth, existed on their own.


Par t ner s wit h M U U SE to Prom ote New Tal ent M a g a s i n i s d e v o t e d t o s u p p o r t i n g yo u n g fashion designers and bringing their i n s p i r i n g c r e a t i o n s t o a w i d e a u d i e n ce online at magasin.dk and in the Magasin department stores. Magasin has chosen MUUSE as partner in the mission to patron new design talents i n t e r n a t i o n a l l y a n d b r i n g co l l e c t i o n s b y a p p r a i s e d yo u n g d e s i g n e r s t o M a g a s i n customers. MUUSE represents the worlds 100 most promising emerging fashion d e s i g n e r s a n d w o r ks w i t h t h e d e s i g n e r s t o c r e a t e s i g n a t u r e M U U S E Ed i t i o n s co l l e ctions.

M U U S E Ed i t i o n s co l l e c t i o n s ca n b e b o u g h t o n m a g a s i n . d k a n d i n 2 0 1 3 c u s t o m e r s ca n v i s i t t h e M U U S E p o p - u p i n M a g a s i n Ko n g e n s N y t o r v d u r i n g C o p e n h a g e n Fa s h i o n We e k f ro m Ja n u a r y 2 8 t h . t o Fe b u a r y 3 rd . a n d i n M a g a s i n Ă… r h u s f ro m M a rc h 4 t h . t o 1 0 t h .

M a g re t h e D a l B u y i n g D i re c t o r M a g a s i n

“We take great pride in supporting new design talent, Danish as international. Young designers are invited to showcase and sell their collections in Magasin through our collaboration with M U U S E . We wish to give our customers the very latest and upcoming in fashion. Our collaboration with M U U S E enables us to do this.�

D a v i d D e n c ke r M U U S E C EO & Fo u n d e r

"Magasin shares our ambition of helping the best young designers connect with the people who love fashion. Working with a strong brand such as Magasin not only gives the designers a stamp of approval but being present in Magasin allows to present our outstanding young designers to Magasin's customers."


NYSK ABELSEN DER STARTEDE EN REVOLUTION INDEN FOR HÅRPLEJE. Hos Moroccanoil brænder vi for sundt, naturligt smukt hår: Vi forbedrer enhver hårtype, bevarer integriteten af hvert eneste fiber og skaber effektive nyskabelser inden for hårpleje. Mød vores første produkt: Det originale Moroccanoil Treatment. Det er et revolutionært, banebrydende produkt inden for hårpleje med olie og som alene stod for den verdensomspændende begejstring for arganolie. En enestående formel, der er essentiel til styling, pleje og luksuriøs, glansfuld finish. Oplev DET ORIGINALE. Moroccanoil - brandet der startede det hele med et produkt kendetegnet ved dets ikoniske, turkise mærkat og særlige originale glasflasker.

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dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

look of the day

Twist of neon P e t e r J e ns e n LO O K O F THE DAY Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt P hoto Mathilde Schmidt Makeup by MAC Cosmetics Key makeup artist Live Apelland

The clean-cut, fresh and feminine look contrasts with the naturally beautiful skin and gently shaded eyes, with a popping neon lip and a defined brow. Despite the organic vibe of the skin and the eyes, the freshly hued lips transform the makeup into a modern look — albeit with a slight 50s feel. The edges of the lips look almost airbrushed, just as the eyebrows are only slightly defined to forge a very soft and organic look, which doesn’t look overdone. Modern simplicity with a neon twist.

page 38

LOOK OF THE DAY

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The hair has a structured out-of-bed look, which conveys more naughty and less nice. The big, soft curls have been brushed back and fixed behind the ears with lots of gel, and the whole look has been doused in hair powder to give it that coveted dirty edge and a cooler feel, which also plays off of the set design of icebergs and snowy landscapes. Featured Products Liquid Fabric — Volume Maker Hair Powder — Extreme Urushi Gel All By Shu Uemura Art of Hair


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dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

You prob ably h ave no idea h ow to pronounce j e we l e r Zarah Voigt’ s s urname D e sig n e r M a ds Nø rg a a rd i nven t ed the co n ce p t o f st rip es a n d i s g en u i n ely con ce rn e d a b o u t t h e fa s t pa ce t ha t f a sh io n h a s t a ken ever s i n ce

Top mod el jud g es Caroli ne F lemi ng and U f f e B uchard were all smi les to d i sg ui se the f act that they had acci d entally glued thei r f orehead s together

Eurowo m a n’ s G e rt ru d Bø n n ely kke i s t o t a l ly okay a bo ut p ayin g M a ds Nø rga a rd roya l t i es fo r hi s i nven t i o n of strip e s; f rie n d B ea i s , l i ke, n o t a bo u t t o s plu rg e o n t hat

De s igne r Anne Sofie Mads e n was l ike , oh my god, my Dans k Daily re v ie we r Mouss a Mch angama jus t totally ge ts my ob s e ss ion for al l th ings s ire n-fe tis h -chi c

DANSK col lect i ve Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J orem

The t a s t e- pu r veyo rs o f o u r pare nt mag DAN SK ass e mbl e d a s mas h ing col l e ction of s artorial inventiveness f or f ashi on week d i splay.

A heartbreaki ng crowd of stagg eri ng genius

page 40

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

O h. . .

I f Heath e r L ock l ear wore cl oth e s , fab ul ous cl oth e s , s h e woul d l ook l ike Danis h Fas h ion I ns titute ’ s C EO Eva Kr us e , s e e n h e re next to th e inimitabl e K im Gre naa, creative dire ctor of DAN SK

A lt f o r Da m ern e’ s L i n e H i n d s g av l a n d C amil l a Frank , w h o l ike s big l ape l s

Desi g ner Tri ne Wackerhausen and i nteri or styli st Nathali e d eci d ed to attend f ashi on week i nstead of watchi ng X-Factor


DENMARK’S ONLY real OUTLET VILLAGE HOME TO DANISH AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS


dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

Non-lesbi an hand baller M i kkel Hansen went i nto f ashi on asylum thi s week to avoi d persecuti on by anyone wi th the f ai ntest i nterest i n sport T h e only pe opl e w h o real ly ge t it, obv ious ly

Soulla n d-p ro du ce r Jo n proba bly do e sn’ t list e n t o reg g a e

soul la n d Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J orem

S i l a s Adl e r ’ s üb e r -popul ar me ns wear l ab e l Soul l and dre w we l l -dre ss e d people f rom th e worl ds of s port, publ is h ing, fl amb oyant fl auntation and rap musi c.

Eurowoman’s Cami lla gives her “not i mpressed ” g aze because she d oesn’t beli eve you really appreci ated the f ashi on to the extent that her d i scerni ng eyes d i d

Rap p er Ke si h a d t o b e b a by s i t t ed by pha l l i c sneakers - af icio n a do Jo a ch im S even I n ch, a s i t wa s his first t im e a t t e n din g a fa s hi o n s how w i t ho u t wet n u rse Fre de “ E u ro t w i n k” An d ers en Fas h ionabl e as h e may b e , DAN SK Magazine’s Ras mus Sandb e rg is ne ve r too prope r to l augh at a good ol d poop j oke

Cut he re a n d re ce ive yo u r ver y ow n Frederik An de rse n p a ssp o rt pho t o t o pl a ce in your wa lle t a n d b rin g a l o n g ever y w here

Subve rting al l conve ntions of s ty l e

Spalt PR’s John Chri stof f er shocked the personal i ncarnati on of f ashi on week Anne Chri sti ne wi th hi s possi bly-Givenchy style shocker

t he em b a ssy Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J orem

page 42

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

O u r n e igh b o rs t o t he n o rt hea s t , Swed en , a l s o make s l e e k fas h ion and th e ir e mb ass y h os te d a coctail e ve nt to ce lebrate the launch of the book Fashi on Scand i navi a.

Swe dis h amb ass ador I nga Erik sss on Fogh i s a re d-h ot dipl omatic force to b e re ckone wi th T h e Swe dish u pper cl a ss ba ra ä l s ka r Da n m a rk!

These sneaky style-ad d i cts gatecrashed every si ngle event of Copenhagen Fashi on week


SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

dansk daily

A confide nt expone nt of l as t s eas on’s My Li ttle Pony h air as pione e re d by L i na Raf n

A m ode l n e e ds n o ca pt i o n

M a ri a n n e B ra ndi, th e Firs t L ady of DAY a n d c rea t ive dire ctor of DAY Home

If you regret jumpi ng on the eyebrowless bandwag on, the best remedy i s longer bangs

day birg er e t mi kkelsen Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J orem

DAY Bi rg er et M i kkel s en o pt ed fo r an in-s tore A/W pre s e ntation at w h ich eage r fas h ionis tas coul d p eruse the new collecti on on i nert mod els.

DAY ’ s h ead de s igne r Rik ke Wie nmann Mai w ith pe rpl exe d bl ond e accompli ce

T h e An g el a M erkel o f t he p u blish in g wo rl d, M a l en e M a l l i n g

T h e alway s -inquis itive founde r of DAY, Keld Mik ke l s e n, is one h ands ome de v il

page 43

DAY ’s m a st e rm in d o f glob a l d o m i n a t i o n Pet er H en ri cks en plo t s t h e way ahea d w i t h col l ea g u e

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Thi s. Thi s i s how you sell f ashi on. And she knows i t


dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

Ivona B ruun and Si gne B i nd slev are as i nseparable as the Olsen twi ns C h rist ia n H a n se n si ppi n g hi s d a i ly gl a ss o f cha m pa gne wit h f row n i n g fem a l e co m pa ny

C ute -as -a-l ol l ipop Bj ørn Br uun

Collectors of med i eval torture i nstruments T h e f e ro ci o u s An d rea N i el s en

b aum v s bruu n s Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J orem

Ba u m u n d P ferd g a rt en joi n ed force s w ith pare nt company Br uuns Bazaar to ce l e b rate th e ir fabulous new combi ned f lagshi p store.

page 44

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Fe mme Re gional e s’ E mil ie and Jul ie give th e I ronfl ag graph ic de s igne rs iron pol e s in th e ir pants

The e co -f rie n dly Pet er I n g wers en ha d a not- s o -f rie n dly g a z e , bu t hey, t ha t ’ s fa s hi o n

Tei s B ruun’s si g nature masculi ne look emanates f ashi on conf i d ence

He l l e He s te h al e and Rik ke Baumgartne r


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dansk daily

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02 ND

events saturday - february 2, 2013

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

11.00-13.00 T HE BIG BRUNC H - Made in Italy V I S I O N · Lokomotivvæ rkst e d e t · O tto Buss e s Ve j 5A, C ope nh age n SV · open to all trad e f ai r vi si tors 12 . 00-22.00 C ommon Heritage Flagship Store Opening and O fficial R e leas e of S S 1 3 Colle ction Sinds hv il e ve j 19, Fre de rik s b e rg · by inv itation only 16.00-17.00 AFT ERHO UR by Heineken and Egekilde V I S I O N · Lokomotivvæ rkst e d e t · O tto Buss e s Ve j 5A, C ope nh age n SV · open to all trad e f ai r vi si tors 22 . 00 C P H Finest Fashion Week C losing C elebration H ot e l S kt. P e tri · Kr y s tal gade 22, C ope nh age n K · s ign up for guestli st 23 . 0 0- 04.00 Unique Models & P eter Jensen C FW Afterparty S imons · Store Strands træde 14, C ope nh age n K · by inv itation only

For mor e ev e nts and d e tails g o to www. co p e n h a ge nf a shionweek .com

saturday - february 2, 2013

COPENHAGEN FASHION festival DAILY EV ENT S S H O P · MACARO O N S W I T H AT T I T U D E · La Glac e S koubogade 3 , Copenhagen K · open to all Fashion in F ilm F e stival · C I N E MAT I C ST Y LE · B irds of Par adis e Co p e nhag e n Edt. lll C inemateket & N ikolaj Art Hall , Copenhagen K · open to all S H O P · 3 0 Jan - 2 F e b · CO M PAN Y S O R I G I NAL - E X T R AVAGAN T C E LE B R AT I O N O F MALE N E B I RGE R F rederiksberggade 2 4 , Copenhagen K · open to all 12.00, SHO P P ING, NAME IT — FASHIO N FOR K I DS Vimme l s k afte t 42, C ope nh age n K 12 . 0 0- 14.00, C O MP ET IT ION, ORGREEN KOBENHAV N — GO S HADY Store Re gne gade 1, C ope nh age n K · ope n to al l 14.00 & 15.00, SHOW, FO OT Y FASHIONS Apair · Ny Ø s te rgade 3, C ope nh age n K · ope n to al l 14 . 0 0- 16 .00, SHO P P ING, TOMMY HIL FIGER - NEWS HIT S THE S HE LVE S Ø s te rgade 26, C ope nh age n K · ope n to al l 14 . 0 0- 16 . 00, SHO P P ING/ C O MP ET IT ION, INSP IRAT IO N FO R YOUR S PRI NG LOOK Magasin P ersonal Shopping Magasin · 2 nd F loo R · Konge ns Ny tor v 13, C ope nh age n K · open to all 23 . 0 0 PA RT Y, C O PEN HAGEN FASHIO N FEST IVAL — OFFIC IAL FASHIO N FE S TI VAL CLOS I NG PARTY H I V E · Sk inde rgade 45, C ope nh age n K · ope n to al l

FO R M O R E EV E N T S AN D D E TAI LS G O TO www. co p e n h a ge nf a shionf estiva l. com

show sChedule page 46

SHOW SCHEDULE / EVENTS

saturday - february 2, 2013

by invitations only

13. 00- 14. 00 C I F F Kids Trend S how B e lla C e nt e r · C en ter Bou leva rd 5, C op en h a ge n S For mor e ev e nts and show d e tails g o to www. co p e n h a g enf a shionf estiva l.com


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DANSK Daily Saturday 2nd February