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* GOAT MEAT MADE EASY * HOMEMADE FISH & CHIPS * MICHEL ROUX JR *

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Baking

Fresh & tasty soups

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£3.99| Mar 16

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Paul Hollywood's Brilliant Breads + 10 Bright & Beautiful Cakes

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ISSUE

Local, Seasonal, Delicious

JOHN TORODE'S BEST EVER ROAST!

54

STUNNING SPRING RECIPES

Rick Stein's Perfect Chicken Pie * Sticky Yorkshire Rhubarb Sponge * Cornish Pasties


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Welcome...

*

MEET THE EXPERTS

Seasonal food lovers are well used to experimenting with different fruit and veg as the months change, but when it comes to meat, fish and even dairy, it's all too easy to get stuck in a rut. Enter our new favourite meat... British kid. Goat is one of the world's most consumed meats, yet it has largely eluded home cooks in the UK. Male kids are a by-product of the dairy industry that in the past would have been euthanized shortly after birth (a terrible waste) so it makes ethical sense to make use of them. It also helps that the meat is utterly delicious too – very similar to lamb – so hopefully our feature on p.37 will inspire you to seek it out. If you want to branch out from fishy staples like cod and haddock, Gareth May seeks out some lesser known sea species and suggests ways to broaden your fishy eating habits on p.78. Venison has never been more readily available, and our recipes on p.108 shed some light on how best to cook this wonderfully lean meat. Also, look out for the first of many columns from the lovely John Torode on p.42. This month he shares one of his all-time favourite dishes – nanna's perfect roast chicken – and top ingredients for cooking with in March. Have a delicious month!

Natasha

RICK STEIN'S MEDITERRANEANINSPIRED DISHES ADD A SPLASH OF SUNSHINE TO THIS MONTH'S COOKING ON P.117

OUR NEW COLUMNIST JOHN TORODE KICKS THINGS OFF WITH HIS FAVOURITE SUNDAY LUNCH DISH ON P.42

MICHEL ROUX JR TELLS US ABOUT THE THIRD GENERATION OF ROUX CHEFS IN OUR INTERVIEW ON P.86

FORMER MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS WINNER ADAM HANDLER SHARES HIS FOOD LOVES AND HATES ON P.146

Editor natasha@aceville.co.uk

hind the scenes } {Be on GBF�

g 're celebratin This month we arb! See our favourite ub rh everything p.31 fruity buys on

Learn how to be a better baker with our 15-page guide on p. 91

Discover why Su favourite food ffolk is one of our counties on p. 67


Contents ISSUE 70 | MARCH 2016

60

Editor Natasha Lovell-Smith 01206 508619 natasha@aceville.co.uk Deputy Editor Holly Brooke-Smith 01206 508623 holly@aceville.co.uk Editorial Assistant James Fell 01206 505985 james.fell@aceville.co.uk Group Advertising Manager Daniel Lodge 01206 505951 Advertising Manager Owen Cook 01206 505939 owen.cook@aceville.co.uk Group Editor Charlotte Smith 01206 508615 Contributors Lizzie Enfield Account Manager Nathan Kliber 01206 505424 nathan.kliber@aceville.co.uk Art Editor Matt Sumner Designers Louise Abbott, Connie Ngai, Damien Paddick Publishing Director Helen Tudor 01206 505970 Photography CliQQ Photography Subscriptions Jenny O'Neill 01206 508605 Circulation Mick Orrin 01206 505912 Accounts Joy Loveday 01206 505914 Published by Aceville Publications Ltd, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY Newstrade Sales MarketForce 0203 148 3300 Next Issue on sale: March 4th

Tempting Ideas 9 This Month

News, events, shopping ideas and eating out

Irresistible ideas for this seasonal favourite

46 Alpine Suppers

44 GBF Notebook

Warm the cockles with these cosy dishes

88 Subscription Offer!

60 Homemade Takeaways

132 Rule Brittania

82 Cooking with Beer

Tell us what you're cooking Get your mag delivered and receive a free gift

Great British shopping ideas

137 Off the page

This month's best cookbooks

140 The Big Giveaway

Win a weekend break in Leeds and ÂŁ250 of kitchen kit

Tasty Recipes 17 In Season

Buy locally, eat seasonally

26 Spring Flavour

Celebrate early green shoots

4

31 Rhubarb!

Healthier and cheaper – it's a no-brainer Perk up recipes with a good glug of ale

89 9 Ideas with Savoy cabbage

This crinkly brassica is wonderfully versatile

94 Nice and Slicey

Classic tray bakes to fill the cake tin

98 Paul Hollywood's Bread Prove a perfect loaf with Paul's recipes

101 Simple Cakes & Puddings

Sweet treats you can rustle up in a jiffy and enjoy with friends and family

108 Venison

Find inspiration for this increasingly-popular game

117 Rick Stein's Spring Suppers

Light, seasonal and inspiring ideas from Rick Stein. They're too good to miss

120 Make It Tonight

Friday night steak and chips in 30 minutes

127 Weekday Wonders Keep the week interesting with these simple ideas

In the Know 52 Things You Never Knew About... Oysters Crack the shell of this magical mollusc


104

32

82 121

40

82 55 The GBF Cheeseboard We're shouting about hard cheeses this month

57 Tried and Tested

We investigate the best flavoured rapeseed oils, and reveal which ones to buy

77 Beer Country

Sophie Atherton heads to the breweries of Burton-on-Trent

92 Baking Hacks

Super quick tips for better cakes, bread and biscuits

Foodie Features 25 Valentine's Kitchen

Find inspiration for the 'hungry gap' with Val Warner

...with a special trial subscription of three issues for just £6! * BURY BLACK PUDDING * NORFOLK SEAFOOD * THE BEST BLUE CHEESES *

64 Nathan Outlaw's Fish Tales

Seasonal inspiration from the guru of seafood

78 Sustainable Fish

Broaden your fish choices!

86 The GBF interview: Michel Roux Jr

* STICKY GLA

H ea l th y + Homemade

* Jamie’s Feel Good Food * Perfect Pork & Cider One-Pot * Hearty Kale & Chicken Soup

Dinner tm Covere as d * Hugh Boxing FW's Day Cu rry * James Festiv Martin's e Pudd ings

Toad in the Hole • Syrup Sponge • Welsh Cakes •

£3.99| Jan/Feb 16

JOHN TORODE’S

121 Food Tourist

Cook Better

Chef Adam Handling reveals his foodie likes and dislikes

* GORDON RAM

SAY'S 6 STU

NNING SID

MARY BERRY'S C ris tm LET’S hCOMFORT CLASSICS as Special TUCK I * Your Ch N ! ris

Family Roasts

146 Last Words

* HOMEMADE GIFTS

ES * TOP FOOD

FESTIVALS

*

59 delicious recipes using the finest local produce

The secrets of Le Gavroche laid bare

We head to Edinburgh to try the capital's finest food

ZED HAM

FO

We uncover the gems of this east coast county

John shares one of his all time favourite recipes, for his nanna's roast chicken

F

67 Eat Local... Suffolk

42 John Torode at Home

SUBSCRIBE TODAY! P.88 O

The best chopping boards in the shops

We visit Devon goat meat company at Cabrito to learn about kid

! ! IN 0 IZES W 00IE PR £4 OD

59 Kitchen Confidential

37 The Kids Are Alright

Choclate ora yule log nge p 127

P.29

Gloriou Fest s e Recipiv es £3.99|

OUR SCOTLAND SPECIAL!

15 pages of Burns Night inspiration

Artisan bread for beginners Homemade jammy dodgers Mix gin cocktails like a pro Magic How to make: bone broths al w Ch

in 2016!

63

inter b

ocol Tear 'n ate Mince Pi ' Share es Buns & , Gingerbrea d Spiced Apple Strude l

akes

Dec 15

Magical winter bakes

KERR TOM CHRISIDGE’S TM KITCH AS EN

Eat, Drink & Be

MERRY

English & best bubbly of Br cheese itish board

5


Recipe 26 Rundown

From simple light lunches to tasty seasonal suppers and show-stopping puddings

36

Light Bites & Sides

26 Lemon Curd 46 Potato R枚sti 108 Venison Scotch Eggs with Pickled Cucumber 114 Savoy Cabbage & Potato Soup With Bacon 114 Creamy Savoy Cabbage with Carrots 114 Stir-Fried Savoy Cabbage with Caraway 114 Savoy Cabbage with Almonds 114 Savoy Cabbage with Chorizo, Shallots & Rice 114 Pan-Fried Savoy Cabbage with Garlic 114 Savoy Cabbage with Green Chilli & Cumin 114 Buttered Savoy Cabbage & Leeks 127 Spinach Soup with Slow-dried Baby Plum Tomatoes 127 French Onion Soup 127 Classic Beef Bone Broth 127 Vegetable Top & Tail Broth

Vegetarian

17 Garlicky Crumbed Spaghetti 26 Spring Squash Lasagne 26 White Wine Risotto 46 Gnocchi With Wild Mushrooms 114 Savoy Cabbage, Walnut & Apple Salad 127 Roasted Tomato Soup with Basil Oil 6

Meat

127

17 African-Spiced Beef Stew 26 Roast Beef & Homemade Gravy 40 Nanna's Roast Chicken 46 Goulash Soup 60 Cornish Pasties 60 Lamb Saag 108 Venison Steaks with Sherry & Cream Sauce 108 Venison Steaks with Blue Cheese 108 Venison Steaks with Teriyaki Glaze 108 Moroccan-style Venison Tagine 117 The Best Chicken Pie In Greece 120 Steak & Chips

26 31

Fish & Seafood

17 Baked Plaice with Black Bean Vegetables 17 Cornish New Potato & Crab Salad 31 Mackerel with Rhubarb Salsa 52 Baked Oysters with Tender Leeks & Thyme 52 Oyster Rockefeller 52 Oyster Kilpatrick 52 Oysters with Mignonette Dressing 60 Classic Fish & Chips with Tartare Sauce 64 Lemon Sole on the Bone with Parsley & Clam Butter 78 Cuttlefish & Chorizo Stew 82 Mussels in Coconut & Beer 117 Seafood Linguine

Puddings & Bakes

17 Rhubarb & Ginger Sponge 31 Rhubarb Meringue Flan 31 Rhubarb & Ginger Crumble 31 Rhubarb & Orange Trifle 82 Chocolate, Beetroot & Stout Cake 94 Bakewell Slice 94 Pineapple Upside-Down Slice 98 Date & Fig Bread 98 Potato Focaccia Pugliese 98 Onion & Bacon Fougasses 101 Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Icing 101 Bri么che Bread & Butter Pudding 101 Peanut Butter Fondant

82 94


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GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:16 Page 8


This month HOT PRODUCTS * PEOPLE * EATING OUT * WHAT'S ON

Local – Seasonal – Brilliant!

The days are getting longer and each passing week is filled with the promise of spring. And while there's masses of produce on the horizon, cooks often need to be imaginative in March to fill the 'hungry gap' between winter and spring. Look to the coast for the last of seasonal shellfish, indulge in hearty greens like leeks or kale and brighten plates with beetroot and purple sprouting broccoli.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT Mark the changing season with a light and vibrant root veg salad. Founder of Rude Health, Nick Barnard has created a recipe for Beetroot and Goat's Cheese salad that is wonderfully earthy and fresh. Eat Right (£25, Kyle Books)

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Pick of the

MONTH

TIDY SINK A four piece washing set that all fits neatly in its own bucket Bucket dishwashing set, £40, redcandy.co.uk

Start the spring clean in style, with our pick of cleaning and storage kit BOXING CLEVER For packed lunches or storing nuts and seeds Eight plastic storage boxes, £11.50, berryred.co.uk

BIG CHEESE Cheer-up the washing-up with this fun sponge Cheese sponge, £8.99, gettingpersonal.co.uk

SCRUB UP Portable and stylish, rubber bowl and wooden brush Normann Copenhagen washing up bowl and brush, £60, design55online.co.uk

WIPE OUT Super stylish charcoal-blue dish cloth Shore birds cloth, £3.90, andshine.co.uk

BIN THERE! High quality steel base and flip-topped bin for the kitchen Wesco Pushboy, £154.95, wesco-shop.co.uk

SUPER SAVERS Don't let leftovers go to waste with these neat food tubs Bit Pots, £8 for 2, newsoda.com

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YOU WASH, I'LL DRY? Soften the blow with this cheery graphic dish towel Come dry with me tea towel, £6, emmabridgewater.co.uk


Happy Eating What we’re up to this month

Natasha, editor It's finally time to get sowing in the garden! First up is beetroot – I'm going for a real rainbow selection of yellow, purple and stripy pink beets this year. I'm also going to try my hand at growing carrots. Holly, deputy editor As a butter-fanatic I think it's about time I try making some of my own. It's so easy – just beat cream until it separates and goes solid. I'm planning to experiment with flavours like rosemary, basil and maybe even anchovy. James, editorial assistant I've been dodging the rain to build a wood fired oven this month – I can't wait to get it up and running over the summer. It's been quite a challenge but I'm really pleased with the results. Bring on the pizzas!

WHAT KATIE ATE

Cauliflower is at its best in March, try it in Katie Quinn Davies' recipe for Spiced Cauliflower Cheese with Crunchy Topping, from her book What Katie Ate at the Weekend (£19.99, Saltyard Books)

Keep an eye out for the first of the spring lambs, arriving across the country this month

11


Q&A

ys

Unsung Hero

Florence Knight

e.

[March]

Celeriac! The gnarly, bowling ball of a root veg is set to have its moment in 2016 –the foodie forces have spoken and announced it is the 'new kale'

HEAD CHEF AT SOHO'S POLPETTO TALKS HENRICKS GIN AND HEMMINGWAY What’s your favourite place on the British coastline? It has to be Mersea Island, on the Essex coast. It’s really evocative of an England that once was, with rows of painted beach caravans and wind-breakers lining the seafront. I love paying a visit to the Company Shed there for a really fresh seafood lunch. If you had £5 for dinner how would you spend it? I would keep it simple and buy some of my favourite cheese at the moment called ‘Bleu des Causses'. It's a French blue, similar to Roquefort. What’s the most exciting ingredient in your kitchen at the moment? We have a huge jar of Japanese fermenting tea, called kombucha. It still needs a few more weeks to mature.

What’s the best book you’ve read this year? I’ve really enjoyed revisiting two of my favourites; The Pedant in the Kitchen by Julian Barnes and the timeless classic The Old Man and the Sea by Ernest Hemingway - both beautifully written short novels. What do you always order from a fully-stocked drinks bar? I love classic cocktails such as the occasional Gibson made with gin, vermouth and garnished with a pickled onion! Which storecupboard seasoning do you always turn to? As basic as it sounds, salt. It enhances the flavour of everything and it comes in a surprising number of variations.

ILLUSTRATION:LOUISE ABBOTT

But, we suggest you forget the fads and just appreciate the wonderful everyday versatility of this nutty veg. Mash it with potatoes, grate with mayo for a remoulade, or pan fry in cubes with herbs for an alternative to chips. Unbeatable.

HAPPY PEAR AT RIVERFORD

Twin Irish chefs The Happy Pear have launched a limited edition veg box with Riverford. The duo, Stephen and David Flynn, have a large following on Jamie's FoodTube and are passionate about fresh, seasonal produce. Expect recipes for Mexican leek, Black bean chilli and Puy lentil coconut dahl. Order online at riverford.co.uk/recipeboxes.

GBF’s Shopping Basket P.146

Marmalade sugar pot, £24.99, emmabridgwater. co.uk A pretty pot to keep sugar to hand, on the table or worktop

12

Perfect Portion plate, £14.99, thedietplate.com Keep your meals balanced with this clear and simple picture plate

Bettys Bury Simnels, £9 box of 4, Bettys An seasonal variation on the well-known Bettys fat rascals

Clementine & Cointreau marmalade, £5.49, radnorpreserves.com A beautiful bittersweet preserve, with a little boozy kick

"You can expect to see at least one embarrassing photo of me as a child if you come and eat at Caxton!"

ADAM HANDLING


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:17 Page 13


Where to go to...

warm up winter 1. UNRULY PIG, SUFFOLK Newly refurbished and wonderfully cosy, The Unruly Pig serves simply brilliant food – seasonal, local and prepared with care. It sits on the edge of Anglo Saxon archaeological site Sutton Hoo and is a short distance from many Suffolk coastal walks as well. theunrulypig.co.uk

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2. THE BELL INN, EAST SUSSEX A beamed bar and roaring fire greet you at The Bell Inn, as well as a hearty menu including local treats such as Fletchers Flock lamb rack and The Bell burger. There's a choice of beautiful rooms as well. thebellinticehurst.com 3. THE INN AT WHITEWELL, LANCASHIRE Set in stunning fell and moorland of Clitheroe, The Inn is a warming and traditional haven. The rustic menu is expertly prepared and the dining room has stunning views. Sink into an armchair after lunch beside the roaring fire. innatwhitehall.com

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What’s on Cake International 18-20 March, NEC Birmingham The go-to show for all cake and icing enthusiasts. You'll find a wealth of inspiration among the demonstrations, stalls and exhibitors. Stock up on baking ideas, just in time for Easter. cakeinternational.co.uk

World Pasty Championships 5 March, The Eden Project, Cornwall It's time for the ultimate pasty bake-off! Each year, entrants from around the globe pit their pasty recipes against each other, in the heart of pasty country. There's live music as well as flowing ale and cider. Great fun! edenproject.com 14

The Chocolate Festival 26-27 March, Bristol Chocoholics unite! The feast of cocoa, ganache and truffles is here again and it promisies to satisfy all your chocolate cravings. Expect a range of Easter activities, such as egg decoration and bonnet making. festivalchocolate.co.uk Nip Whisky Festival 29 March- 2 April, Inverness A celebration of the finest craft whisky and gin from the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, showcasing some of the best distilleries of the area. There is a dram for everyone and for all tastes at the festival, ranging from contemporary to traditional blends. thenip.scot

FAIRTRADE FORTNIGHT 29 FEB- 13 MARCH FAIRTRADE.ORG.UK BRITISH PIE WEEK 7-13 MARCH JUSROL.CO.UK/ BRITISH-PIE-WEEK TIME FOR A CUPPA 1-8 MARCH DEMENTIAUK.ORG NATIONAL BUTCHERS WEEK 14-20 MARCH NATIONALBUTCHERS WEEK.CO.UK


● THIS MONTH

New Bottle on the Block This signature blend from East Sussex vineyard Henners Estate has a real depth and it's absolutely lovely. The first notes are of ripe pears and brioche flavours which develop into a rich almond finish. The fizz is made from Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes grown on the 4 hectare vineyard. Henners Brut 2010, £29, virginwines.co.uk

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FOODIE BAROMETER WHAT’S HOT

VENISON SALES Shoppers bought 115% more venison last year than in 2014, according to Mintel COFFEE SHOPS The number of high street coffee shops has doubled in the last decade says Allegra Strategies research ENGLISH BUBBLES It was a corking Christmas for English fizz; sales were up 300% according to Marks & Spencer WHAT’S NOT CHANGING A CLASSIC The new Cadbury Creme Egg recipe contributed to a loss of £10 million sales last year SWEET TEMPTATION Supermarkets are backing a law to reduce sugar by 50% in cakes, biscuits and fizzy drinks, says British Retail Consortium FAKE FAT This year, natural fats are in full favour – we'll be seeing lots of recipes using nuts, olive oil, avocados and oily fish

DROP SCALES Kitchen scales have smartened up somewhat since the days of weights and balances. This electronic set links directly to 'Recipe App' and measures out specific dishes of your choice. You can adjust quantities to as many portions as you want, or if you only have a certain amount of one ingredient. There are lots of 'how to' videos on the app as well. Drop Kitchen Connected Scale and Recipe App, £79.99, Lakeland

SUPER BOWLS! Designer Alistair Donald has launched a range of bowls to help British households reduce food waste. The design is called Hokan, from the Japanese word for safekleeping. Alistair's lovely cobalt blue-glazed bowls can go straight from the freezer or fridge, to the oven or microwave, and then directly to the table! You can also cook stews and porridge in them. The lids can be used as a serving plates and everything stacks neatly together. A set of three bowls costs £87, from hokanbowls.com

MARMALADE FESTIVAL 2016

Three of the best…

British salmon

Easy-peasy poach in the bag salmon. A great option for busy week nights. Salmon fillets with garden mint 250g, £5.89 bigfishbrand.co.uk

Hand sliced salmon sides, oak smoked on the Norfolk coast. Sliced smoked salmon 200g, £9.50, cleysmoke house.com

Beautiful smoked salmon from the Isle of South Uist. Salar flaky smoked salmon 200g, £8.30, salarsmoke house.co.uk

This year's much-awaited Dalemain Marmalade Awards kicks off on March 19th. The 16-strong judging panel will include baker Dan Lepard and Quo Vadis chef Jeremy Lee, as well as the Cumbrian W.I. Held in wonderful setting of Dalemain Mansion and gardens in Cumbria, the amateur category attracted 2,700 jars last year. Deadline for entries this year is February 14th, visit dalemainmarmaladeawards. co.uk for details. 15


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:17 Page 16


â—?RECIPES | EAT IT NOW

In Season March is the ultimate transitional month; the chilly weather still calls for warming comfort food and hearty root veg, but the first signs of spring are also starting to emerge, with fresh seafood and vibrant green leaves at the top of our list

ON THE MENU

* Forced Rhubarb * * Purple Sprouting Broccoli * Early Carrots * * * Spinach * * Pak Choi * * Potatoes * * Crab * * Plaice *

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“Rhubarb & ginger is a classic combination that’s spicy, sweet and comforting. This sponge is easy to make and ideal to finish a Sunday lunch”

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●RECIPES | EAT IT NOW

with salt and pepper, and add extra lemon juice if required

RHUBARB & GINGER SPONGE Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 40 minutes 400g rhubarb, chopped 200g sugar 3 balls stem ginger, finely chopped 100g butter 2 free range eggs 100g self-raising flour Cream, to serve

1. Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC/ Fan 160ºC/Gas 4. Put the chopped rhubarb into an ovenproof dish and sprinkle over of 100g sugar and 3 balls of finely chopped stem ginger in syrup. 2. Beat the butter and sugar together. Whisk the eggs and add to the butter mixture, with the flour, beating until light and fluffy. Pour over the rhubarb and bake for 30-40 minutes. Serve with cream. Last three recipes courtesy of recipes.asda.com

Eat it Now: Crab Brown crab is the most commonly found variety in the UK and often wield an impressive amount of meat. Crabs are best sourced whole, live and fresh, or at least freshly boiled. If boiling from fresh, it's considered most humane to place them in the freezer 2 hours before cooking. PAIR WITH: mayonnaise, egg, chilli, garlic, butter, brandy, cheese, asparagus, lemon

AFRICAN-SPICED BEEF STEW Serves: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 30 hour 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 500g essential Waitrose British Beef Sirloin Steak, trimmed and cut into 5cm pieces 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 red chilli, finely chopped 350g Chantenay carrots, or

Eat it Now: Rhubarb The vibrant pink hue of forced rhubarb is always a joy at this time of year, when colour is a bit lacking in the seasonal larder. Famously grown in Yorkshire's rhubarb triangle, plants are 'forced' into growing indoors in darkness out of their natural season in order to achieve the characteristic colour and pleasing texture. PAIR WITH: custard, vanilla, orange, ginger, strawberries, elderflower, pork, mackerel, herring, cheese

CORNISH NEW POTATO & CRAB SALAD Serves: 4 Prepare: 5 minutes Cook: 25 minutes 1kg new potatoes 150g fresh white crab meat Juice of 1 lemon 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed 1 red chilli, chopped 2 tbsps chopped parsley 3 tbsps rapeseed oil Salt and pepper, to season

1. Boil the potatoes in salted water for 15-20 minutes, then drain and allow to cool before cutting in half 2. Mix the crab, lemon juice, garlic, chilli, parsley and oil together, then stir through the potatoes. Season

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Eat it Now: Plaice Characterised by the eye-catching reddish spots on their smooth, brown skin, plaice are a chip shop stalwart and are probably Britain's most popular flat fish. They have been subject to over-fishing in the past, though stocks are said to be recovering, so be sure to buy MSC assured fish. PAIR WITH: melted butter, parsley, lemon, garlic, prawns, bacon, chorizo, tomatoes

1 tbsp rice wine or dry sherry 1 tsp reduced salt soy sauce 1 tsp sunflower oil 250g Tenderstem broccoli spears, halved 1 large red pepper, deseeded and sliced 2 tbsps black bean sauce 1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted

1. Preheat the oven to 200ºC/Fan 180ºC/Gas 6. Cook the rice in boiling water for 20–25 minutes until tender, then drain. 2. Meanwhile, arrange the fish fillets side by side in a shallow, heatproof dish, scatter with the shredded salad onions and drizzle with rice wine or sherry and soy sauce. 3. Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake for 10–12 minutes until the fish is opaque and cooked through. 4. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the broccoli and pepper for 5 minutes until tender. Stir in the black bean sauce and sesame seeds and serve with the fish and rice. similar, halved lengthways 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tbsps tomato purée ½ x 25g pack fresh mint, leaves roughly chopped

1. Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole or heavy-based saucepan. Season the steak with salt and pepper and add to the hot oil. Fry for 5 minutes, turning until browned on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. 2. Add the onion, garlic, chilli and carrots to the casserole and cook over a gentle heat for 6–8 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the cinnamon and cook for another minute. Stir in the tomato purée 20

and 300ml boiling water and mix well. Cover and simmer for 10–15 minutes, until the carrots are tender but still retain some firmness. 3. Return the steak to the pan and gently warm through for 2 minutes. Scatter over the mint and serve with rice. BAKED PLAICE WITH BLACK BEAN VEGETABLES Serves: 2 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 25 minutes 100g brown basmati rice 2 x 120g plaice fillets 2 salad onions, thinly sliced

GARLICKY CRUMBED SPAGHETTI Serves: 2 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 15 minutes 150g spaghetti 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 50g chunky breadcrumbs, made from a day old ciabatta or white loaf 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 50g blanched hazelnuts, roughly chopped Grated zest 1 lemon 100g bag baby spinach 25g sundried tomatoes, roughly chopped, plus 1 tbsp oil from the jar Handful fresh basil leaves


â—?RECIPES | EAT IT NOW

Eat it Now: Early Carrots Look out for the first tender carrots of the season – they're pulled fresh from March onwards and are particularly sweet and delicate. Try to track down tiny finger carrots with their green tops still attached if you can, they look particularly beautiful in salads or baked in a tart. PAIR WITH: honey, cumin, coriander, ginger, parsnip, beetroot, orange

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● RECIPES | EAT IT NOW

1. Cook the spaghetti in boiling water for 10–12 minutes, until tender. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the breadcrumbs, garlic and hazelnuts and fry for 5–6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp. Stir in the lemon zest and take off the heat. 2. Drain the spaghetti, reserving 1 tablespoon's of the cooking water. Return to the pan and fold in the spinach, tomatoes and reserved oil from the tomatoes. Warm through over a gentle heat until the spinach has just wilted. 3. Stir in the basil and divide between 2 serving plates. Scatter over the garlicky crumb mixture to serve. Last three recipes courtesy of Waitrose.com

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Eat it Now: Spinach While bagged, ready-to-eat spinach is available all year round from the supermarkets, it's well worth hunting down loose, young leaves at outdoor markets at the start of spring – they're delicious! PAIR WITH: soft cheese, eggs, smoked fish, cream, bacon, chicken, tomatoes, yoghurt


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:18 Page 23

Great tasting British Stilton made the traditional way Our unique family heritage, traditional craftsmanship and passion for great cheese, help make Cropwell Bishop Stilton so tasty.

Contact us to find out more about our range of delicious cheese telephone: +44 (0)115 989 2350

www.cropwellbishopstilton.com

follow us on Twitter @YummyStilton

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GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:18 Page 24


Valentine’s�

KITCHEN Stuck for seasonal ideas? Even when produce is a bit thin on the ground, Val has plenty of inspiration to offer

This time of year has historically been referred to as the ‘hungry gap’ – referring to the time when winter veg finish cropping, and before the full abundance of spring begins. Although I’m sure this phrase had real resonance into the mid 20th century when most people grew food, it really does not apply today in the same sense. True hunger is experienced by few and, for those who unfortunately do go hungry, this is not because weather or food storage threaten a family’s eating habits. Whereas once this term may have referred to an urgent scarcity of produce, nowadays it could only really represent a lack of understanding of ingredients in a society that increasingly does not cook. However! I’m not here to knock heads or split hairs as to what the 'hungry gap’ might mean, but to offer consolation to cooks. The weather in March can still be as cold as a witch’s nipple but this is okay – I do not want to hear the click of salad tongs until the first cuckoo heralds the arrival of spring. And there is plenty of food to suit the weather, just as Mother Nature intended. Consolation against long nights can be found in cooking plates of real deliciousness. The month of March

sees me poaching meats for medicinal savoury teas, which will also include onions, the last of the parsnips and several winter roots. 'Leeks vinaigrette' provides a gentle pleasure, which is simply leeks served with boiled eggs and a mustardy dressing. Brussels sprouts are also fabulous on their own with just butter or oil, salt, vinegar and a twist of black pepper. Early in the month, the last mussels can be enjoyed and (stealing an idea from the masterful chef Bruno Loubet) I would make a very creamy, garlicky potato purée, form a well in the middle and fill it with

steamed mussels and their juices, mixed with parsley. Or you can finely shred kale, deep fry it and mix with muscovado sugar and toasted fennel seeds. Lemon possets are possibly the simplest deserts to make …ever! Just boil cream and sugar with lemon juice. Crown them with a radiant kumquat compote and it’s a knockout pudding. Kumquats are also surprisingly easy to grow. There is so much to cook in this period – I could go on and on, but for anyone who really feels the gap, then find me on Twitter and I’ll try and give you a recipe in 140 characters @ValentineWarner.

"There is plenty of food to suit the weather, as nauture intended"

ILLUSTRATION:LOUISE ABBOTT

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BRIGHT & BEAUTIFUL

Spring is so close we can almost taste it! But until the warmer weather properly arrives, these vibrant recipes are packed with the fresh flavours of warmer times ROAST BEEF WITH HOMEMADE GRAVY Serves: 6 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: Around 2-2½ hours 2–3kg beef rib joint (3–4 ribs) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 10–12 beef marrowbone pieces, cut lengthways 1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 6–8 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped 2 tsps lemon juice Small bunch of fresh dill, chopped Sourdough toast, to serve For the homemade beef gravy: 400–500ml water Sprig of rosemary 4–5 tbsps redcurrant, quince or crab apple jelly 2 heaped tbsps cornflour mixed with 6–8 tbsps cold water Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7. Season the beef well with salt and black pepper, place it in a large roasting tin and roast for 30 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 160°C/Fan 140°C / Gas 2½. Cook for 20 minutes per 450g for medium, or 15 minutes per 450g for rare. 2. About 30 minutes before the end of cooking, add the beef marrowbones to the roasting tin, cut-side upwards, along with the onion and anchovies.

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3. When your beef joint is cooked let it stand for 20 minutes and transfer the marrow bones onto a platter to keep warm. Next make the gravy. Remove the meat and bones from the pan, leaving the onion and anchovy fillets with the juices. Holding one corner of the roasting tin with a tea towel, tip it gently to drain off almost all the fat into a bowl, removing the last of it with a large spoon. 4. Put the roasting tin over a high heat, add the water and rosemary and bring to the boil, scraping the pan to release any baked-on bits. Stir in the jelly, followed by the cornflour liquid, and bring to the boil. Reduce, if necessary, to the desired thickness. Season, and strain into a serving jug. 5. Just before serving the marrow bones, sprinkle with the lemon juice, dill and a little more salt, and make sure everyone has a small spoon so they can scrape out the marrow onto some hot sourdough toast. FINISH-THE-BOTTLE WINE RISOTTO Serves: 4-6 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 35 minutes 600ml hot organic chicken stock 2 bay leaves 60g unsalted butter 2 tbsps rapeseed oil, plus extra to serve 3 small leeks, washed and finely chopped 3 sprigs of lemon thyme 200g Arborio rice


● RECIPES | EARLY SPRING

“A properly matured joint of beef is a thing of beauty. Dark marbled flesh, with cream-coloured fat that will baste the meat as it roasts gently, needs nothing but a little seasoning and a slow oven” 27


250ml white or rosé wine 150g frozen baby broad beans or peas, defrosted 1 heaped tbsp full-fat crème fraîche Salt and freshly ground black pepper Big handful of grated Parmesanstyle cheese, plus extra to serve Fresh mint, to serve 2 heaped tbsps za’atar (optional)

1. Put the chicken stock into a saucepan, add the bay leaves and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, in a separate large pan, melt a knob of butter with the oil and add the leeks and thyme. Cook over a gentle heat until soft and translucent. 2. Stir in the rice and make sure it is thoroughly coated in the butter and oil. Pour in the wine and increase the heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a brisk simmer, stirring often, until half the liquid has evaporated. 3. Add the broad beans with one ladleful of the hot stock. Keep stirring and cook until all the liquid has been absorbed. Then add another ladleful of stock and repeat, stirring constantly. Continue with the remaining stock (topped up with boiling water, if needed) until the rice is cooked but still has a slightly firm texture with a creamy consistency. This takes about 20 minutes. 4. Add the stock gradually so you’re not left with a soup at the end. Don’t overcook the rice as it will continue to cook for a few minutes when it is removed from the heat. 5. When the rice is cooked, stir in the crème fraîche. Season with salt 28

and black pepper to taste, cover and set aside for 6–8 minutes. Serve scattered with grated cheese, fresh mint leaves, a sprinkle of za’atar (if using) and an extra drizzle of oil, and hand some extra grated cheese around for people to help themselves. ORANGE, LEMON & DILL BUTTERNUT SQUASH LASAGNE Serves: 6 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 30 minutes 9 large lasagne sheets Sea salt and rapeseed oil 100g spinach leaves, roughly chopped A large handful of fresh parsley, chopped 500g ricotta cheese, crumbled Freshly ground black pepper For the coconut sauce: 50g coconut or rapeseed oil 50g plain flour 400ml can coconut milk 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the breadcrumb topping: 75g strong hard cheese, such as Parmesan 75g sourdough breadcrumbs 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped Finely grated zest of 1 orange Handful of fresh dill, chopped For the butternut squash: 3 tbsps coconut or rapeseed oil 1kg peeled butternut squash,


●RECIPES | EARLY SPRING

drizzle with olive oil so they don’t stick together while cooling. 4. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Finally, assemble the lasagne. Layer about one third of the butternut squash (or root veg) into a deep 20cm x 27cm dish, followed by one third of the spinach leaves, one third of the ricotta and a good grind of black pepper, then 3 lasagne sheets followed by a thin layer of coconut sauce. Repeat this layering twice more. 5. To finish, spoon over the remaining coconut sauce. Mix the breadcrumb topping ingredients together in a bowl and spread the mixture in an even layer over the top of the white sauce. Bake for 30–40 minutes or until piping hot and golden. LEMON & THYME CURD Makes: 2 x 450g Jars Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 25 minutes 200g unsalted butter 4 sprigs of fresh thyme (we like lemon thyme) Zest and juice of 4 unwaxed lemons 400g white granulated sugar 4 large eggs, at room temperature Pinch of sea salt

Parmesan 75g sourdough breadcrumbs 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped Finely grated zest of 1 orange Handful of fresh dill, chopped

1. Start by making the squash. reheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Put the coconut oil in a large shallow roasting tray in the oven for 1 minute to warm. Then add the butternut squash (or root veg), rosemary, lemon zest and salt. Toss in the oil and roast for 30–40 minutes or until very tender when poked with a fork. Remove from

the oven (switch the oven off), mash, and set aside. 2. Next, make the coconut sauce. Mix together the oil and flour in a saucepan. Cook over a medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the coconut milk a little at a time, mixing until you have a smooth sauce. Stir in the nutmeg with salt and black pepper to taste, then set aside. 3. Cook the lasagne sheets for 5 minutes in a large pan of salted boiling water with a tablespoon of olive oil until the sheets have softened. Drain the sheets and

1. Put the butter and thyme into a medium bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water. Add the lemon zest, juice and sugar. Stir occasionally until the butter has melted, then remove the pan from the heat and leave for 10 minutes so the thyme infuses the butter mixture. 2. Remove the herbs and return the pan to the heat, so the water simmers again under the bowl. Whisk the eggs in a separate bowl, then reduce the heat under the butter mixture and gradually beat the eggs into it. 3. Return the water under the bowl to a simmer and stir the mixture regularly for about 10 minutes until the curd is thick and custard-like in consistency. Then turn off the heat, remove the bowl from the pan and stir the lemon curd as it cools to prevent a skin forming. Pour into two sterilised jars and seal. It will keep for two weeks in the fridge. Recipes adapted from Food for Thought by Vanessa Kimble (£19.99, Kyle Books) Photography by Laura Edwards 29


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:18 Page 30

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●RECIPES | RHUBARB

IN THE PINK Versatile, vibrant and pink – these seasonal spears are brilliant in sweet and savoury dishes

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T

he neon pink knuckle of a rhubarb shoot, poking through dark winter soil must be the closest thing to a living phoenix any of us are ever likely to see. The determined pink sprout slowly unfurls into a fiery spear with frilly yellow-green leaves. It’s a dramatic arrival! To gardeners, rhubarb is a vegetable; while cooks are more likely to use it as a fruit – in jams, fools and crumble. It works as a relish with oily fish or lamb, just as well as in gooey cakes and creamy custard dishes. Seasonal spears

Rhubarb has two seasons – the earlier crop of forced rhubarb is harvested from December to March. The stems are grown in pitch dark sheds and ‘forced’ into maturity as they shoot up, in search for light. Rhubarb folklore says you can even hear the rhubarb rustle as it pushes through the straw. Then the second crop of field-grown rhubarb arrives in April. This is hardier than the more delicate forced stems. Rhubarb grown in the dark is sweeter and has a deeper pink colour. Forced leaves are also much smaller and paler than field rhubarb. MACKEREL WITH RHUBARB SALSA Serves: 4 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 25 minutes 500g new potatoes, halved or quartered 1 tbsp sunflower oil, plus 2 tsp for the fish 4 Asda Cook From Frozen Mackerel Fillets, or similar 250g rhubarb, cut into 1cm pieces Zest of 1 small orange 1 red chilli, de-seeded and finely chopped 1 tbsp clear honey 8cm piece cucumber 1 small red onion peeled, finely chopped 2 tbsps coriander, chopped Sugar snap peas, to serve

1. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5. Boil the potatoes for 5 minutes. 2. Drain, put in a roasting tin and toss in 1 tablespoon of the oil. Cook in the top of the oven for 40 minutes until cooked through and golden. 3. Put the mackerel in a roasting tin in a single layer and brush with oil. Cover with foil and bake for 25 minutes. Drain off any juices. 4. To make the salsa, add the rhubarb to a pan of boiling water,

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bring back to the boil and simmer for two-three minutes. Drain, then refresh in cold water. 5. Add the orange zest, chilli and honey. Halve the cucumber lengthways, scoop out the seeds, and cut into small cubes. Add to the salsa with the onion and coriander. 6. Serve with the mackerel, potatoes and sugar snaps.


●RECIPES| RHUBARB

rhubarb in an even layer and bake for 45 minutes. 4. Serve hot with the reserved juices and custard or cream. RHUBARB & ORANGE TRIFLE Serves 8 Cook: 35minutes Prepare: 90 minutes 1 orange 150g caster sugar 400g rhubarb (trimmed weight), cut into 4cm pieces 4 Asda Trifle Sponges, or similar 4 tsps orange marmalade 3 tbsps Cointreau (or orange liqueur or juice) 500g pot ready made custard 250g pot Mascarpone 300ml double cream

RHUBARB & GINGER CRUMBLE Serves: 6 Prepare: 35 minutes Cook: 45 minutes 800g rhubarb, cut into 2cm pieces 2 balls stem ginger in syrup, drained and chopped 3 tbsps ginger syrup from the stem ginger jar 100g caster sugar, plus 75g for the crumble 50g Oats 100g plain flour 75g butter, chilled and cut into

small cubes 25g sunflower seeds 25g poppy seeds Custard or cream, to serve

1. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5. Put the rhubarb in an ovenproof dish. Add the chopped stem ginger, ginger syrup and 100g sugar, then stir to mix. 2. Cover and cook in the oven for 25 minutes. Drain off about half the juices and reserve them. 3. Put the oats and flour in a bowl and rub in the butter. Stir in 75g sugar and the sunflower and poppy seeds. Sprinkle on top of the

1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. To make the candied zest (for decorating), remove the orange zest using a vegetable peeler, taking care not to include any white pith. Cut into thin strips. Put 50g sugar in a pan with 150ml water and heat until dissolved. Add the zest and simmer for 10 minutes or until tender. Drain and leave to cool. 2. Put a single layer of rhubarb in a shallow greased dish and sprinkle over the rest of the sugar. Add the juice from the orange, cover with foil and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. 3. Remove the foil, turn the pieces over and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Leave to cool. Drain and reserve the juice. 4. Split the sponges and sandwich with marmalade. Cut each into three pieces and put in the base of a trifle bowl or individual dishes. Mix 5 tablespoon rhubarb juice with the liqueur and sprinkle over the sponges. Put the rhubarb on top. 5. Mix the custard with the mascarpone and spoon over the rhubarb. Level the top and chill for 20 minutes. 6. Whip the cream until it just holds its shape and spread on top. Decorate with candied zest. RHUBARB MERINGUE FLAN Serves: 8 Cook: 60 mins Prepare: 30 mins 500g Jus-Rol Shortcrust Pastry 33


Flour, for rolling 75g strawberry jam 600g rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 2cm pieces 50g caster sugar, plus 175g for the meringue Finely grated zest of 1 orange, plus 100ml juice 25g cornflour 3 free range large eggs, separated

1. Pre-heat the oven to 190째C/Fan 170째C/Gas 5. Roll out the pastry and line a 23cm flan tin. Prick the base and lay a piece of foil on top. Add baking beans or rice and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and beans/rice and cook for another 5 minutes. Spread on 25g of the jam. 34

2. Put the rhubarb in a pan with 50g sugar, the zest and half the juice. Cover and simmer for 12 minutes or until tender. Mix remaining juice with the cornflour and stir into the rhubarb. Heat until simmering and thickened. 3. Pour into a bowl and stir in the remaining jam. Cool for 15 minutes. Lightly beat the egg yolks and stir in. Pour into the flan case and bake for 15 minutes. 4. Whisk the egg whites to form stiff, glossy peaks. Whisk in the rest of the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until stiff. Spoon onto the rhubarb so there are no gaps. Bake for 15-20 minutes until tinged brown. Recipes courtesy of recipes.asda.com


●RECIPES | RHUBARB

PRETTY IN PINK

We select the very brightest and best rhubarb products 1 Rosebud Preserves Rhubarb & Orange Jam, £2.99 Booths 2 Taylors & Kew Sweet Rhubarb Tea, £2.99 ocado.com 3 Chazwinkle’s Rhubarb Preserve, £3.16 chazwinkles.co.uk 4 Warner Edwards Rhubarb Vodka, £34.95 warneredwards.com 5 Alder Tree Stem Ginger & Rhubarb Ice Cream 500ml, £4.99 alder-tree.co.uk 6 Yeo Valley Rhubarb Yoghurt, £1.50 ocado.com 7 Belvoir Rhubarb & Strawberry Cordial, £3.15 ocado.com

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GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:19 Page 36

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â—? BRITISH GOAT MEAT

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT Reducing needless waste and creating a beautiful product at the same time? Goat meat company Cabrito has got us listening FEATURE: HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH

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I

f you think about cooking with goat, what’s the first thing that comes into your head? Is it a goat curry? You’re not alone, according to founder of Cabrito, James Whetlor. And he’s spent a lot of time talking to people about goat over the last three years. “But there’s so much more to it! What we’re selling is the equivalent to lamb, as opposed to mutton. And anything you can do with lamb you can do with kid goat. Personally, I think it makes an amazing lasagne, especially with a bit of hard goats cheese melted into the bechemel.”

Waste Not...

James never set out to sell goat meat, but three weeks in 2012 changed everything. He was working as a chef at The River Cottage, and wanted some goats to clear a patch of overgrown land. And that’s when he learned that nearly all male goats born in the UK are killed at birth. “Nanny goats are put into kid (impregnated) so that they keep producing milk. Female kids are kept for farming, but male kids are largely useless to the dairy industry, so they’re knocked on the head or gassed” he explains. “There are about 100,000 nanny goats in the UK, and 38

“Anything you can do with lamb, you can do with kid goat”


● BRITISH GOAT MEAT

where he needed to kill the billies. He had been trying to keep them or sell them, and it was causing him a huge headache.” So James took four goats that day, and the following year came back and took all the billies from Will’s farm. He found a local farmer who could rear them until they were ready to be butchered, and his goat business Cabrito was born.

not everyone’s going to order it, or even like it, but no-one’s surprised to see it on the menu. The first chef to take it was Jeremy Lee of Soho’s Quo Vadis, and, from then on, everything just started to fall into place. Because if your product is good enough for Jeremy Lee then it’s good enough for everyone. Soon

Getting Goat on the Menu roughly 30-40,000 male billy goats born every year. And they’re nearly all killed. It’s such a well-kept secret.” A friend had introduced James to Will Atkinson, who makes Stawley goats cheese. “Will was really happy to give me a few goats to clear the paddock, and also explained this problem,

“I started driving to London on my day off with carcasses in the back of the van – peddling goat to chefs! It sometimes felt like I was selling a completely new product, which is madness – we’ve been eating goat for thousands of years. “I want to get goat back to the same place as a meat like venison or partridge – where 39


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Cabrito Kid Shanks, £15.20, ocado.com The perfect cut to experiment with goat meat at home

“In the next 5-10 years you’ll see more goat recipes in cookbooks – and there will be more demand for it. The whole thing becomes self-perpetuating.” we had our goats on the menu at St John, Duck Soup, Barrafina, Bocca di Lupo.” “It’s the most gratifying thing when someone as talented as Neil Rankin applies his skill to our product. The goat taco they made at Meatopia was the most tweeted thing on their menu. In fact, that taco from Neil was what made me realise we’ve got something special. That was the moment when I thought – this is a product that can move beyond restaurants, into the mainstream” 40

And James is starting to see a wider shift across the whole British goat industry. “Traditionally, lots of goat recipes will have been replaced by lamb in cookbooks, because goat has been so hard to get hold of. But maybe in the next 5-10 years you’ll see more goat recipes around – and there will be more demand for it. The whole thing becomes self-perpetuating. And it’s these moments that really show the British food industry is in great shape – people really are interested!”


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:19 Page 41


At Home with

John Torode We’re delighted to announce the lovely John Torode as our new monthly columnist! To kick things off he talks about one of his all-time favourite dishes – his nanna’s perfect roast chicken

I

love this time of year. The days are getting longer and brighter and Easter is looming (which for me isn’t just about the chocolate!). March offers you a great opportunity to inject fresh, seasonal flavours into your dishes, so you can treat your friends to the joys of spring. It’s a great time for veggies as spring onions, leeks, new potatoes and purple sprouting broccoli come into season, and it’s also a chance to experiment with lighter meats and seafood. At this time of year we often have family around for lunch, so I like to cook crowd-pleasing dishes that are simple but bursting full of flavour. One of my all-time favourites is roast chicken – and my love for it has certainly been well documented! In my latest cookbook there are a number of roast bird recipes, but the one I am sharing this month is particularly great for spring. When I was five years old, my nanna showed me how to make the gravy for her amazing roast chicken and it was my first cooking lesson. Her food was always honest, delicious and generous and has made me the cook I am today, so this one I always dedicate to her. To mix up the mash, add the chopped whites of a few spring onions at the same time as the milk and cream and stir through the greens at the end.

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JOHN’S MARCH ESSENTIALS: Spring Onions Lemons I’ll be stocking my cupboard up with spring onions this month. Whether you use the whites, greens, or both, adding them to a dish is a simple way to liven it up – they’re great with potatoes or in salads.

I can’t get enough of them; they’re easy to store and full of great citrusy flavour. A simple squeeze is a great way to add some real zest to a dish, whether infusing a salad or livening up a chunk of meat or fish.


●COLUMN | JOHN TORODE

NANNA’S ROAST CHICKEN

For the mash: 2kg potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks about the size of a golf ball 200ml milk, plus extra if necessary 50ml double cream 70g butter, plus extra if necessary White pepper

1. To make the stuffing heat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Melt the butter in a frying pan over a high heat, add a pinch of salt, two grinds of pepper, the onion and bacon and fry for a couple of minutes so the bacon smells good but isn’t crispy. Take off the heat and mix in the rest of the ingredients. 2. To stuff and cook the chicken, rub the bird all over with the butter. Stuff both ends with the stuffing and tie the chicken legs together with string. Lift the chicken breast-side up into a roasting tin. Put the chicken into the oven and turn it down to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5 and roast for 1 hour. Turn the chicken over so that it sits on its breast and cook for another 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, drape the chicken with a sheet of kitchen foil and leave to rest for 20 minutes. 3. To make mash, put the spuds into a large pan, cover with cold water and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes, until tender. Drain well, shaking off all the excess water, then put them back in the pan (off the heat) cover with a tea towel and leave for 5 minutes. 4. Mash the potatoes with a fork - a fork doesn’t squash the spuds like a masher does. Put the pan on a low heat, add the milk, cream and butter and mix will. Add salt and white pepper – lots if you’re me. 5. Almost there! To make the gravy, take the chicken out of the tin and put it on a board (get rid of the foil). Place the tin over a medium heat and sprinkle the flour over the chicken juices. Use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the tin to lift up all the brown bits and make a paste. Stir and cook for 2-3 minutes. Pour in 250ml of water, turn up the heat, bring to the boil and whisk to get rid of any lumps. Add more water and keep it boiling until it’s the consistency you like. 6. Finally, pull the chicken apart and pull out the stuffing. Big dish of chicken, big bowl of mash and stacks of gravy. Loads of food for the family.

For the gravy: 2 tbsps plain flour

Recipes taken from My Kind of Food by John Torode (£25, Headline) Photography: Yuki Sugiura

Serves: 6 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 40 minutes 1 large chicken, about 1.5kg 50g butter, softened For the stuffing: 50g butter 1 onion, peeled and diced 100g smoked streaky bacon, roughly chopped Handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 150g fresh breadcrumbs Grated zest of ½ orange 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and grated, or a British alternative 100g sausage meat Salt and freshly ground black pepper

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The GBF

Noteb�k What you're up to in the kitchen this month

Star Letter

The tail end of March is my favourite time of the year. The weather can be fabulous, with the sunshine glimmering down through crisp and clear blue skies. This amazing period also brings some of my favourite early summer food. I absolutely love the bright green ingredients the season brings; you can't beat peppery watercress and fresh peas. Do you have any recommendations for combining the two? Greg Simons, via email

WIN!

WRITE US A STAR LETTER AND WIN A BOTTLE OF WHISKY! This light and aromatic single malt by Isle of Arran is made using whisky matured in both bourbon and sherry casks. It's a really fresh, beautifully packaged malt which contains no artificial colouring and is made for easy drinking. arranwhisky.com

GBF: You can't go far wrong with the classic pea and watercress soup, Greg. The light dish works wonderfully as you have the delicate taste of the peas paired nicely with the mustardy bite from the watercress. Serve it with some crunchy garlic bread croutons and you have a fantastic alfresco lunch! The ingredients work in perfect harmony when simmered and blitzed into a purée, too. Serve it alongside some grilled halibut with lashings of lemon juice and you have the most amazing seasonal dish.

Your Kitchen Creations SOME OF YOUR BEST HOMEMADE DISHES

ÓÓÓ

1. @cerelin Welsh gammon served with own potatoes, British veg, parsley sauce and sticky glaze, yummy

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2

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2. @2003_davies Chocolate Orange Marble Cake & Pistachio, Cranberry & Orange Chocolates. Both really easy recipes

3. @floandgeo Sunday brunch, Omelette Arnold Bennett and soda bread

Get in touch

Send us photos of your homemade dishes, your restaurant and deli discoveries, share cookery tips or send us letters and emails – we love to hear from you!

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WRITE IN: Great British Food, 25 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY


●YOUR GBF

THE INGHAM SWAN

YOUR

Norfolk

Balanced on the east coast, the expansive county plays host to lots of scrumptious produce, charming delis, lovely pubs and great restaurants. Here are some of your favourite places to eat in Norfolk @Rawsthorne The Ingham Swan, Brasted's, Library Restaurant, Pedros, The Pigs, Strattons Hotel. I could go on... @johnrest3 The Forge at Thursford, one of the best @seaviewtodiefor Upstairs at No1 Cromer is fab, also Byfords in Holt is lovely @Jenny24Wren Mermaids Slipper in Stalham is always a wonderful warm welcome with absolutely stunning food

Anna Jones' Dosa-spiced Potato Cakes

Anna Jones is author of A Modern Way to Eat and A Modern Way to Cook. Recipe courtesy of lakeland.co.uk Given this recipe your own personalised touch? Send a photo to james.fell@ aceville.co.uk and it might make these pages! For the potato cakes: Olive oil 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 tbsp black mustard seeds ½ tsp ground turmeric 10 curry leaves 4 potatoes, boiled, drained and coarsely mashed Salt and ground black pepper For the avocado: 2 ripe avocados, halved and destoned Juice of ½ a lemon

THE INGHAM SWAN

EMAIL: james.fell@ aceville.co.uk

For the cucumber pickle: ½ a cucumber, halved and thinly sliced 1 tsp coriander seeds, based in a pestle and mortar A pinch of sugar Grated zest and juice of ½ an unwaxed lemon 1 tbsp white wine vinegar

TWEET: @BuyBritishFood

1. Heat a splash of oil in a frying pan on a medium heat and fry the onion for about 5 minutes, until soft and sweet. Add the mustard seeds and stand back while they pop. Scoop out a heaped tablespoon of the onion and set to one side to cool. With the pan still on the heat, add the turmeric and curry leaves and fry for another minute or so, then put the whole lot into a bowl and cool slightly. 2. Add the mashed potato to the onions, then season and mix well. Divide the mixture into 4 portions and shape them into 4 potato cakes. Put them into the fridge to chill. 3. In another bowl, mash the avocados with the lemon juice, then stir in the tablespoon of onion. Mix, then season well. 4. To make the pickle, put the sliced cucumber into a bowl and add all the other pickle ingredients. Using your hands, scrunch the cucumber slices to get the flavours going. 5. Put the frying pan back on the heat. Take the potato cakes out of the fridge and fry them gently and carefully in a little oil for about 2-3 minutes on each side, until warmed through and crispy brown. 6. Serve piled with the mustard seed, onion, mashed avocado and with a spoonful of pickle on each side.

FACEBOOK: facebook.com/ greatbritishfood

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COSY COOKING From crisp, buttery rösti to a big dish of comforting goulash, the ‘apres-ski’ dishes served at alpine ski resorts tick all of our seasonal eating boxes! Try them at home with our warming recipes

RÖSTI Serves: 2-3 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 16 minutes 600g floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper 50g unsalted butter, melted A little oil, to fry

1. Coarsely grate the potatoes into a bowl then pour over a kettleful of boiling water and leave to stand for a minute or two. Drain, then, once cool enough to handle, squeeze out as much water as you can using paper towels. Tip into a bowl and toss with the melted butter. 2. Take a heavy-based frying pan and heat a little oil in the bottom. Place the grated potato into the pan and press down. Cook very gently for 6–8 minutes, loosening the rösti after a couple of minutes, so that it doesn’t stick, until golden brown on the bottom. 3. Flip out carefully onto a plate and heat the rest of the butter and oil in the pan or pans. Slide the rösti back in, top-side down, and continue to cook for a further 6–8 minutes over a very low heat. GOULASH SOUP Serves: 6 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 3-3½ hours 46

Rapeseed or olive oil, to fry 100g smoked streaky bacon, finely chopped 1kg braising steak or beef shin, cut into 2.5 cm chunks 2 heaped tbsps plain flour 2 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2 red peppers, deseeded and sliced 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 5 juniper berries, crushed 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp sweet smoked paprika ½ tbsp hot paprika 2 tsps caraway seeds 2 tbsps tomato purée 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1.2 litres beef stock 300g waxy potatoes, cut into chunks 2 beetroot, cut into chunks Sea salt and ground black pepper Freshly chopped parsley, to serve Sour cream, to serve

1. Heat a good layer of oil in a flameproof casserole or large saucepan and fry the bacon over a medium heat until it starts to colour. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. 2. Dust the beef in the flour with plenty of seasoning, then brown in batches over a high heat in the same pan, adding more oil if necessary. Remove and set aside with the bacon.


●RECIPES | COSY SUPPERS

“Rösti is also great for lunch, with cured meats and salamis, little slices of nutty cheese and lots and lots of cornichons”

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“There is something undeniably comforting about little pillows of potato gnocchi. When cooked properly, they should be tender and fluffy rather than dense and heavy” 3. Add a little more oil to the pan and add the onions and peppers. Fry for 10 minutes until softened and the onions start to colour. Add the garlic, juniper, bay and spices, and fry for a few minutes before adding the tomato purée, vinegar and stock. 4. Return the beef and bacon to the pan and season well. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 2–2½ hours until the beef is starting to become really tender. Add the potatoes and beetroot to the pan and simmer, with the lid off, until the vegetables are tender. 5. Stir in the parsley and serve in large warmed bowls with generous dollops of sour cream. GNOCCHI WITH WILD MUSHROOMS Serves: 2-3 48

Prepare: 30 minutes Cook: 50 minutes 500g even-sized small floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper, unpeeled 100g 00 flour, plus extra to dust Freshly grated nutmeg 1 free range egg, beaten 30g unsalted butter 1 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil 2 banana shallots, peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 300g wild mushrooms, cleaned and sliced if large 75ml dry white wine 150ml double cream Small handful of fresh parsley leaves, chopped Fine sea salt and ground black pepper Freshly grated Parmesan, to serve


●RECIPES | COSY SUPPERS

1. Cook the potatoes, whole in their skins, in boiling salted water for 25 minutes until they are tender. Drain the potatoes and, once cool enough to handle, peel the skins off and mash the flesh using a potato ricer or by pushing it through a sieve so it is lump-free and fine. 2. Put the flour, 1 teaspoon salt and a little nutmeg into a bowl and add the potato, mixing with the blade of a knife. Make a well in the centre, add the beaten egg and mix together until well combined. Bring together with your hands but don’t knead or you could make your gnocchi tough. 3. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough into sausage shapes, about 1 cm wide, then cut into 1 cm pieces. Use the tines on the back of a fork to roll the gnocchi, giving them the characteristic ridges. Put on a floured baking sheet and chill until you are ready to cook. (You can cook them now or chill for up to 24 hours.) 4. Make the sauce. Melt the butter in a pan and add the oil and shallots. Cook for 10 minutes until softened and tender. Add the garlic and fry for a further 30 seconds then add the mushrooms. Increase the heat and fry for 10 minutes until they are golden brown. 5. Add the wine and bubble for a minute. Add the cream, a splash of boiling water to loosen it a little and plenty of salt and pepper, then stir in most of the parsley. 6. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and add the gnocchi. They are cooked once they float to the surface, about 1–2 minutes. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and divide among warmed serving bowls. Warm through the sauce and spoon over the gnocchi. Scatter with the remaining parsley and serve.

Recipes taken from Winter Cabin Cooking by Lizzie Kamenetzky (£19.99, Ryland Peters & Small). Photography by Nassima RothackerIt 49


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52

IN the

KNOW Your guide to what to cook, make and buy this month

1

CONTENTS p.52 Things you never knew about oysters

59 55

57

p.55 Our pick of the best British Parmesan alternatives

p.57 The tastiest flavoured oils in the shops

p.59 We test the finest chopping boards 51


THINGS YOU NEVER KNEW ABOUT...

Oysters The delicate meat inside these rough, sea-honed shells has captivated cooks and diners for centuries

Shucks away!

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster”, wrote Jonathan Swift – and it's easy to see what he meant. The shellfish doesn't look particularly inviting from the outside and, once opened, perhaps even less so... until you know what a treat you're in for. Beyond the initial soft seasalty flavour, oysters can be buttery, nutty, saline and sweet; depending on which variety you choose.

KEEP IT SIMPLE

A good oyster needs nothing more than a a simple squirt of lemon, diced cucumber or dash of tobasco. Although we love baked oysters with a thick crispy topping too (right). Loosely speaking, there are two types of British oyster; natives, which are round, seasonal, and prized for their flavour; and Pacific rock oysters, which are teardrop shaped, often farmed and can be eaten all year round. The native oyster season is during every month that is spelt with an 'r' – so, that means right now!

3 ways with...

OYSTERS

1 2 3

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Bake oysters with lots of butter and fresh herbs for Oyster Rockefeller Top with bacon and Worcestershire sauce before grilling for Oyster Kilpatrick Vinegar, shallots and black pepper make a classic mignonette dressing for oysters

DID YOU KNOW?

* In Celtic times abundant native oysters were seen as a last resort when no other food was available. Then, the invading Romans brought a passion for seafood and oysters became a kitchen staple – which lasted until they left, when oysters slipped back out of fashion for several centuries. * The Victorians ate lots of oysters – pickled, fried or in beef pies. In the 1880s as many as 120 million oysters were eaten across Britain. * In more recent times the shellfish has been hailed a delicacy – endowed with aphrodisiac powers and associated with Champagne society. * There are oyster fisheries all across the UK – in Essex, Kent, Cornwall, the west coast of Scotland and Ireland. Some of the most prized native oysters historically come from Essex; specifically Mersea and Pyefleet.


IN the

KNOW 1

Recipe adapted from Oysters, by Cynthia Nims (£14.99, Sasquatch) available from March 2016

Baked Oysters with Tender Leeks & Thyme Serves: 2 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 10 minutes Rock salt, for baking 2 tbsps unsalted butter 4 medium leeks, trimmed and cleaned 1 tsp fresh thyme ½ tsp lemon zest Sea salt and black pepper 5g fine dried bread crumbs 2 tbsps finely grated Parmesan cheese 100ml dry white wine 12 medium to large oysters in their shells, shells well rinsed

1. Preheat the oven to 230°C/Fan 210°C/ Gas 8. Line a rimmed baking sheet with

rock salt or cut a piece of aluminum foil twice as long as the baking sheet and crumple it on the surface of the pan. 2. Melt the butter in a pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring often, until they begin to soften, about 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in ¾ teaspoon of the thyme, ¼ teaspoon of the lemon zest, and a good pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook until the leeks are quite tender to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes longer. The leeks should not brown. 3. While the leeks are cooking, in a seperate small bowl, stir together the bread crumbs and Parmesan with the remaining ¼ teaspoon thyme and ¼ teaspoon lemon zest. Set aside. 4. Uncover the leeks, stir in the wine, and cook until the liquid has mostly

evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Take the pan from the heat and set aside to cool. 5. Shuck the oysters, discarding the top shell. Cut the muscle from the bottom shell, leaving the oyster in place. A little oyster liquor is good, but pour off excess if there is too much in some shells. Nestle the oysters into the salt or foil on the baking sheet so they sit evenly and securely. Top the oysters with the leek mixture, spreading it out a bit to cover the oysters. Sprinkle the bread crumb mixture evenly over the leeks. 6. Bake until the oysters are plump and the bread crumbs are nicely browned, for 8 to 10 minutes. Use tongs or an oven glove to transfer the oysters to individual plates or a platter, perching them as evenly as you’re able. Serve immediately. 53


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IN

GRATE EXPECTATIONS

the

KNOW 1

Try sprinkling these British alternatives to Parmesan and Pecorino on your next dish to give it the perfect final flourish

BERKSWELL, WARWICKSHIRE A hard ewe’s milk cheese with a distinctive rind and lively, intense flavours that vary with the season of production. £9.50 for 250g from paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

SPARKENHOE RED LEICESTER, LEICESTERSHIRE The only traditional farmhouse Red Leicester made in Leicestershire. It has a complex and mellow flavour with nutty, fruity tones. £5.75 for 250g from paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

TWINEHAM GRANGE, SUSSEX This versatile cheese tastes as good on a cracker, as it does finely grated over pasta, thanks to its farmhouse flavour and delicious tang. £2.50 for 150g from Ocado

DOUBLE GLOUCESTER, GLOUCESTERSHIRE A traditional cheese handmade with the milk of Gloucester cows. Its well-rounded, mellow flavour and smooth texture make it a real crowd-pleaser. £6.75 for 250g from paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk LINCOLNSHIRE POACHER, LINCOLNSHIRE Made by a pair of brothers from their heard of Holstein Fresians, this cheese is similar to an excellent mature cheddar, with added depth. £5.75 for 500g from ottersfinefoods.co.uk

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Our award winning Flaky Smoked Salmon has won numerous awards since it was first produced on the premises and we aim to continue to build on past successes.

Produced in small batches, the distinctive flavour and texture our Flaky salmon are different to any other hot smoked products due to the unique hand built kilns and recipe; we use the same special process and kilns designed by the original owner, our smoked cooked salmon retains all the natural omega 3 oils and nutrients and produces the succulent but firm Flaky texture which only Flaky Smoked Salmon can provide.

We source only the highest quality Atlantic salmon (Salmo Salar) from Scottish salmon producers which is reared in the clear waters off the coast of Scotland. Our processes are simple and old fashioned in a way, handmade throughout the process, ensuring each portion is handled with pride and quality; it takes years of experience and patience to master this process, one that cannot be rushed.

See website for details www.salarsmokehouse.co.uk

Here at Yorkshire Drizzle, based in the picturesque town of Holmfirth, we share a passion for good food generously flavoured. That's why we produce a range of healthy flavoured oils and vinegars to add real flavour to your cooking. Dip, drizzle, marinate, roast or stir fry and see where Yorkshire Drizzle takes you.

SAVE 20% WHEN YOU ORDER ON LINE SIMPLY QUOTE COUPON CODE GBFM Normal price ÂŁ4 per 250ml bottle. Offer ends 1/6/16

www.yorkshiredrizzle.co.uk 56


IN

TRIED & TASTED

FLAVOURED OILS 5

the

KNOW 1

Our choice of the best British oils with an extra hit of flavour 1 Ola Extra Virgin Coldpressed Rapeseed Oil with Basil Grown and coldpressed in Aberdeenshire, Ola’s basil infused rapeseed oil adds a summer twist to pasta, or salad dressings. The oil is produced without chemicals or heat. £2.25 for 100ml, £3.95 for 250ml, olaoils.co.uk 2 Borderfields Chilli Infused Rapeseed Oil A vibrant, fiery oil that packs a punch. It adds real depth

to stir fries or mince and sauces. The rapeseed is grown in Northumberland, Nottinghamshire and the British borders, by a traditional farming co-operative. £7.99 for 3 bottles, amazon.co.uk 3 Kentish Cob Nut Oil Grown, pressed and packaged in Kent, this award-winning cobnut oil is a real delicacy – it takes over a kilo of handpicked cobnuts to make each 250ml bottle. Fortnum and Mason

chose it as an outright winner from 6,000 oil submissions. £15.95 for 250ml or two for £30, kentishcobnuts.com

4 Yorkshire Drizzle Rosemary & Garlic Rapeseed Oil We tried this oil to roast potatoes with a leg of lamb and it was an absolute hit! The extra herb and garlic flavours are a really easy way to pack lots of taste into your dishes. Or just pour into a dish and use to dip with

crusty bread. £4 for 250ml, yorkshiredrizzle.co.uk 5 Fussels Smoked Rapeseed Oil The lovely smooth rapeseed oil from Fussels is given extra depth with an oak wood smoke infusion. Use it in dressings, or to give your fried potatoes an extra depth. Delicious as a preserve for dried tomatoes and peppers as well. £3.50 for 250ml, fusselsfinsfoods.co.uk

4 1

3 5 2

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IN

2

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KNOW

3

1

1

4

KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL 5 CHOPPING BOARDS 5

5

James Fell tests his chopping, slicing and dicing skills on some of the best boards out there 1 MIA FLEUR GREEN MARBLE If you're after a touch of class when dicing your veg, then look no further than this beautiful board. The dark wood and rich green marble make it a great serving platter and it looks good as a permanent feature to your kitchen worktop, too! £40.95 from miafleur.com

2 Fish Chopping Board Designed by artist Marianne Nilsson in the 1950's, the blue fish pattern is utterly timeless and represents pure simplicity. Its durability makes this a robust breadboard. The lined surface neatly catches any stray crumbs, too. £24.50 from andshine.co.uk

3 STELLAR BAMBOO CHOPPING BOARD Solid and slimline, this board will survive the nicks and knocks of a busy family kitchen. The knife honer ensures your blades are always as sharp as possible when getting through tough meat or niggly veg. Bamboo is naturally antibacterial, too. £19.99 from stellarcookware.co.uk

4 JOSEPH JOSEPH WORKTOP SAVER Brighten up your work surface with this dazzling board that's befitting of an art gallery. With rubber feet, the sturdy accessory allows you to chop without any risk of slippage. It's stain and odour resistant, so the colours won't be fading any time soon! £16.50 from redcandy.co.uk

5 ACACIA CHOPPING BOARD With its vibrant, mintcoloured edging, this utensil is definitely capable of turning a few heads. The sturdy handle is a useful addition, as the board can double up as a sophisticated cheeseboard and also be hung on the wall. £19.50 from berryred.co.uk

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Homemade Takeaways Put down that menu and cook up an amazing feast of takeaway favourites from the comfort of your own kitchen

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●RECIPES | FAST FOOD

CLASSIC FISH & CHIPS WITH TARTARE SAUCE Serves: 4 Prepare: 25 minutes Cooking: 35 minutes 1.5 litres vegetable or sunflower oil, for deep-frying 4 floury potatoes, peeled 200g self-raising flour, plus a little extra for dusting 2 tsps salt 250–300ml lager 4 x 200g pieces of thick cod, haddock or pollock fillet, skinned Malt vinegar, to serve For the tartare sauce: 6 heaped tbsps good-quality mayonnaise Juice of 1 lemon 1 large shallot, peeled and finely diced 2 tbsps capers, roughly chopped 1 large gherkin, finely chopped 2 tbsps chopped parsley

1. Heat 20cm of oil in a large, high-sided saucepan or deep fryer to 160°C. If you don’t have a thermometer then you can tell when the oil is at the right temperature by dropping a cube of bread into it; the bread should be golden brown in about 1 minute. 2. Slice each potato into chips, roughly 2cm thick. Carefully lower the chipped potatoes into the hot oil. Fry for 7 minutes at this low temperature before removing with a slotted spoon and tipping on to a tray or plate lined with baking parchment. Leave these blanched chips in a cool place until ready to fry again. 3. Prepare the tartare sauce. Spoon the mayonnaise into a bowl and add the lemon juice, shallot, capers, gherkin and parsley and mix until all the ingredients are well combined. Cover the sauce and place in the fridge until ready to eat. 4. Increase the oil temperature to 170°C – your bread should take 40 seconds to brown at this temperature. 5. Tip the flour into a large bowl and add 1 teaspoon of the salt. Pour the lager slowly into the flour whilst whisking. Work the lager into the flour until you reach a batter with the consistency of thick double cream. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Line an oven tray with baking parchment.

6. Scatter some of the extra flour on to a plate or tray, and season generously with salt. Take each piece of fish in turn and dust in the seasoned flour. Pat the fish with your hand to remove excess flour – you’re after a thin coating. When your oil has reached the correct temperature, again, working with one piece of fish at a time, dip the floured fillets in the batter, shaking off excess batter, then gently lower into the hot oil. It is probable that you will only be able to cook two pieces at a time. 7. Fry the fish for 9 minutes, by which time the batter should have turned crisp and golden. Transfer the fish to the lined tray and place in the warm oven. Repeat the process with the remaining fish. 8. Increase the heat of the oil to 180°C – your bread should take about 30 seconds to brown at this temperature. Drop your blanched chips into the hot oil, and fry for 2 minutes until the chips have turned golden and crisp. Remove the chips with a slotted spoon and season with a generous smattering of salt.

LAMB SAAG Serves: 6 Prepare: 25 minutes Cook: 2 hours 3 tbsps garam masala 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder (or cayenne pepper) 1 tbsp ground turmeric 1.5kg lamb neck, chopped into 4cm dice 5 tbsps vegetable or sunflower oil 3 onions, peeled and puréed in a food processor or grated if you don’t have a processor 6 cloves 2 cinnamon sticks 7 cloves garlic, crushed to a paste 6cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated 2 green chillies, split lengthways but still attached at the stalk 60g cashew nuts, toasted (optional) 250g baby leaf spinach 1 small bunch of coriander, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper 61


“Lamb neck is an excellent choice for curry as it contains a decent amount of fat, which when slowly cooked becomes deliciously tender. Chunks of lamb shoulder or leg would work well in this recipe too, as would beef shin if you are looking for a different flavour” 1. Place half the garam masala, chilli powder and turmeric in a large bowl along with a generous amount of salt and pepper. Add the lamb neck and mix so that the meat is well coated in the spices. Leave to one side. 2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. When hot add the puréed onions and a pinch of salt. Fry the onions, stirring regularly for about 15 minutes by which time they should have coloured and become meltingly soft. 3. Add the cloves, cinnamon, garlic and ginger. Increase the heat a little, and fry, stirring regularly for a further 2–3 minutes, before adding the remainder of the ground spices and the green chillies. Fry for another minute. Increase the heat to maximum and tip in the marinated meat, scraping in any spices left in the dish. Fry for 2–3 minutes, stirring almost constantly. Pour in 500ml water, stirring as you add. Bring the liquid to the boil before reducing the heat and simmering the curry for about 1½ hours, adding a little water if it is looking dry. 4. Whilst the meat is cooking pour 100ml boiling water over the cashew nuts, if using, and leave for at least 10 minutes. Purée the nuts in the water using either a food processor or a pestle and mortar. Keep to one side. 5. After 1½ hours the meat should be tender, if not, continue to cook for a bit longer. Add the cashew purée and stir. Bring the curry back to the boil. Add the spinach and coriander. Your curry is ready as soon as the spinach has wilted.

HOT STUFF

Why buy chillies when they’re so easy to grow at home? DT Brown Seeds have seeds and plants of all varieties of chilli, from warming and tasty to red hot – perfect for this tasty curry! dtbrownseeds.co.uk 62

CORNISH PASTIES Makes: 4 Prepare: 30 minutes Cook: 35 minutes Plain flour, for dusting 2 x 500g block shortcrust pastry 250g rump steak, chopped into 5mm pieces 250g red potatoes, chopped into 5mm pieces 150g swede, peeled and chopped into 5mm pieces 1 small onion, peeled and chopped into 5mm pieces 1 free range egg, beaten, for glazing Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat your oven to 180°C/Fan 170ºC/Gas 4. Line a baking tray with baking parchment. Lightly dust a clean surface with flour and roll out your pastry to a thickness of about 5mm. Using a small plate as

a template cut out four discs, about 20cm in diameter. This may require you to re-roll the pastry. 2. Mix the steak, potatoes, swede and onion in a bowl, season with a generous amount of salt and pepper, and give the ingredients a mix. 3. Make equal piles of the mixture in the centre of each pastry disc, leaving a border of at least 3cm all the way around. Brush the edge of the pastry with a little beaten egg. 4. Draw two sides up over the filling and press together in the middle over the raw filling. Using your fingers, crimp the joined pastry into the classic pasty shape. This is something that will become easier and more precise with practice. 5. Transfer the pasties to the prepared baking tray, glaze with more beaten egg and place in the oven for 35–40 minutes, by which time the pastry will have turned a deep golden colour and the filling will be cooked through. To ensure the meat is fully cooked push a sharp knife into the thickest part of a pasty and leave it for 5 seconds. Touch the tip of the knife and if it’s hot then the meat is fully cooked. 6. Let the pasties stand for 5 minutes before digging in. Alternatively these are delicious served at room temperature for a very filling lunch. Recipes taken from Homemade Takeaways by Rob Allison (£18.99, Orion)


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:21 Page 63

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Note: The Magic Plate® for children is a healthy portion designed for children, boys over 11 should use the male version.

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Nathan Outlaw’s

FISH TAILS

The spring season is starting to kick off for Cornish chef Nathan Outlaw – here he talks about the pros and cons of being based in one of the most remote corners of the UK March is a special month for me. I was born in March, making me a Pisces, quite fitting seeing I became a seafood chef! It is also the start of the season following our winter break, so the guys are back from their travels and raring to go. Last year we relocated Restaurant Nathan Outlaw to Port Isaac. It’s always risky moving a restaurant as there’s never any guarantee that you’ve chosen the right place. However, I now know that it was a good decision and we can breathe a sigh of relief. It was also a gamble because Michelin stars don’t travel with you when you relocate restaurants, but thankfully over the past year we’ve regained our 2 Michelin stars and added other accolades to them!

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The people of Port Isaac have welcomed us and we’ve had lots of encouragement, which is much appreciated. Local B&Bs have made our guests very comfortable and the local taxi drivers have been willing to drive guests about at the drop of a hat. For those of you who’ve never been to Port Isaac, you might not realise what challenges being quite remote brings. Of course it’s all part of the charm, but it does mean that you have to think about getting about after a certain time of night! My new book, Everyday Seafood will be published on 7th April and I’m very excited. I’ve listened to readers’ comments about my other books and I’ve tried to make this one really useful for those of you cooking at home. All the ingredients can be

found in supermarkets or online, and there’s a chapter of desserts that go well with a fishy main course, plus guidance from my sommelier, Damon Little, about choosing drinks to go with seafood. I don’t think you can go far wrong if you want to produce a seafood feast. My hope is that it’s well used, not just put on a shelf to gather dust! Talking of cooking, cod (sustainable, of course), turbot and lemon sole are delicious now because the sea is still cold and if you’re lucky you might also see early cock crabs, a real treat. I’ve included a favourite recipe from my first book this month for a lemon sole dish. I hope you enjoy it! Recipe taken from Nathan Outlaw's British Seafood (£25, Quadrille)


THE

Recipe 98

Lemon Sole on the Bone with Parsley & Clam Butter I’ve always been mad about potted food (shrimps, duck, crab etc), probably because they are so well seasoned, which they need to be as they are typically eaten cold. Here I’ve taken the classic potted shrimp seasoning – lemon, cayenne, nutmeg and parsley – and incorporated it into butter, which I warm the clams up in. You can do the same with cockles

Serves: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes, plus 2 hours cooling time Cook: 15 minutes 4 lemon soles, about 400g each, prepared to cook whole (ask your fishmonger) 2kg live clams, cleaned Light rapeseed oil for cooking 100ml white wine Cornish sea salt

the cooking juices and a little more oil if needed. Grill for a further 5–6 more minutes until cooked, checking every minute or so towards the end. Meanwhile, unwrap the butter and slice into discs. When the fish is cooked, place 3 slices of the flavoured butter on top of each lemon sole and soften it slightly under the grill. At the same time, gently warm the clams in some

of the flavoured butter. (Refrigerate any leftover butter for another use.) 5. Place a cooked lemon sole on each warmed serving plate and add the fish cooking juices to the clams. Spoon the clams and butter over the lemon soles and sprinkle with some chopped parsley. Serve with lemon wedges and a bowl of crispy deep-fried courgettes or seasonal vegetables of your choice.

For the flavoured butter: 250g unsalted butter, softened 4 tsp chopped curly parsley 20 rasps of nutmeg 1 tsp cayenne pepper Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped To serve: 1–2 tbsps chopped parsley Lemon wedges

1. For the flavoured butter, put the butter, parsley, nutmeg, cayenne, lemon zest and juice in a food processor or blender and process for 2 minutes until well blended. Transfer to a bowl and add the shallots, garlic and salt to taste. Fold together until evenly combined. Lay a sheet of cling film on a work surface and spoon the butter onto it. wrap the butter in the cling film, rolling it into a long sausage and tie the ends of the cling film to secure. Chill for 2 hours to firm up before serving. (The butter will keep in the fridge for a week, or it can be frozen.) 2. When ready to serve, heat your grill to medium-high. Oil the grill tray. Now oil the white side of the fish, season with salt and lay in the grill tray, white side down. Drizzle a little more oil over the upper brown side of the fish and season with salt. Slide the tray under the grill and cook the fish for 5–6 minutes. 3. At the same time, place a large saucepan (that has a tight-fitting lid) over a medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the clams and wine. Put the lid on and steam for 2 minutes until the shells open. Drain the clams, reserving the juices; discard any that are unopened. 4. Baste the fish under the grill with

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GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:21 Page 66

Fun, hands on recreational cooking days Mark and Annie David created The Cooking Experience 15 years ago in their house in Hadleigh, Suffolk. Courses are all Hands-On, Fun and Inspirational. The Cooking Experience courses are moving to The Taste Academy in Ipswich near the train station. A cookery school with plenty of room and free parking. Corporate Teams are well catered for as well as Private Celebration parties, Hen Parties etc. The Cooking Experience also organises catering for Weddings and other Celebrations. Themes include: Seafood & Shellfish recipes; Quick, Easy & Impressive Entertaining; Italian; Meditterranean; Moroccan & Meditteranean; Thai; Indian and more.

Tel 01473 827568 email: info@cookingexperience.co.uk www.cookingexperience.co.uk

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Eat Local

A C E L E B R AT I O N O F R E G I O N A L F O O D , D R I N K A N D T R AV E L

EAT LOCAL

SUFFOLK From russet-red cottages and gentle green valleys, to the wild coastline of Benjamin Britten; Suffolk has more than a few surprises up its sleeve

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BEER, BREAD & BACON Suffolk’s food heritage is rooted in the satisfaction of simple produce, done exceedingly well. And there’s so much to choose from!

Butchers, breweries, bakeries, ENGLAND’S BREAD BASKET fishing boats, a scattering The earliest windmill on record was built in Bury St Edmunds in of dairies, vineyards and 1191. Using wind to mill grain was a radical move in the Medieval world of water mills. By the early 19th Century milling heydays, orchards – Suffolk produce Suffolk was home to 500 windmills. Today there are just 37 left, comes together in one but the established history of wheat and corn grinding has left magnificent banquet of its floury fingerprint on the county. Bakers’ ovens are fired up all across Suffolk. local, seasonal fare

Named best food producer in the 2012 BBC Food & Farming awards, Pump Street Bakery sits pretty and pink in the village of Orford. Founded by father and daughter team Chris and Joanna Brennan, the bakery and cafe sells sourdough loaves, Eccles cakes, croissants and beautiful sweet pastries. The shop’s own range of bean-to-bar chocolate (which includes an incredible Sourdough and Sea Salt bar) is worth a visit in its own right. Chris also takes beginner and advanced baking classes in the kitchen for keen home bakers. Baker John Spillings trained with Raymond Blanc before setting up his wholesale Penny Bun Bakehouse in 2010, in Lowestoft. One

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EAT LOCAL

SUFFOLK

BANGERS & BACON

of John’s specialties is his North Sea Sourdough, which is lovingly crafted over two days. His extensive range of handmade loaves and rolls are delivered to restaurants and caterers across Norfolk and Suffolk. The family-run Cake Shop Bakery is the oldest business in Woodbridge and has been selling warm loaves to happy customers since 1946, as well as baguettes, sourdough, ciabatta, pastries and cakes. The bakery uses local ingredients wherever possible, including stone ground flour from the nearby Tide Mill - which is used to make a special Tide Mill Loaf. On the banks of the river Deben, the Tide Mill has been using the power of water to grind flour since 1170. It was the last working commercial tide mill in the UK when it closed in 1957 – and has since been reopened. The mill produces stone ground wholemeal flour for several bakeries, using locally-grown wheat. Time your visit with the tides and you can see the mill in action.

Among the dolls-house pink cottages, Constable Country meadows and East coast beach huts, a field of pigs might be overlooked. But it’s a distinctive sight in the county – pig farming is a major part of Suffolk agriculture. Rich, light soil combined with wide, flat land provides an ideal home for pigs to happily rootle about. The climate also suits pigs perfectly, who find it hard to cope in extreme temperatures. Plus, the ready supply of sugar beet in the county offers a good feed throughout the year. Based in north Suffolk, Dingley Dell Pork farm is devoted to raising happy pigs – so much so that many of their shelters are painted in cheerful multicolored designs. The company was founded in 1999 by brothers Mark and Paul Hayward. As well as pigs, the farm is home to over 200,000 bees, and large areas of the land are covered with seeds to sustain wild birds and insects. At Lane Farm, pig farmers Ian and Sue traveled the world learning how to make salami, before creating their distinctive Suffolk Salami and Suffolk Chorizo – making them one of the first UK farms to produce British charcuterie. Ten years since starting out, their sausages are now sold in Fortnum & Mason and Harvey Nichols. The ‘Newmarket sausage’ is made with breadcrumbs and pork shoulder, and was given protected food status in 2012. Familyrun Musks butchers of Suffolk have been supplying these light and succulent bangers to the Royal Family since 1907. The recipe derives from a time when pigs would snuffle about in the Newmarket racehorse stables – and butchers would make use of the surplus pork.

The North Sea Sourdough loaf at Penny Bun Bakehouse is crafted over two days

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Meanwhile, Shaun Palfrey and Deaglan Hall set up their artisan butchery service, Palfrey & Hall, for the local smallholding and pig-rearing community in 2013. The pair collect carcusses and then cut, smoke and cure the meat to a variety of recipes. One of their signature products is Suffolk Black Bacon, made with Porter’s ale from the local Earl Soham brewery.

TAP INTO SUFFOLK BEER There are some big-name brewers in Suffolk: Adnams and Greene King, as well as cider makers Aspalls. Alongside these household names, the county is also home to a vibrant scene of younger, pintsized breweries. So whether you’re interested in the history of the craft or looking to unearth the next new brew – there’s a beer for everyone and all tastes in Suffolk.

Nearly 300 years ago, Clement Chevallier arrived at Aspall Hall in Suffolk and made the radical decision to plant apple trees on the arable land he’d inherited. Clement bemused the local farmers yet further by importing a heavy granite wheel and trough from Normandy, which arrived by ship at Ipswich docks and took three days to travel 15 miles on horse and cart to Aspall Hall. His first batch of cider was pressed in 1728.

Dairy trailblazers

Fen Farm Dairy introduced the UK’s first raw milk vending machine, at their farm in Bungay. Their Montbeliarde herd of cows are grass-fed and produce high protein milk, which is simply filtered and cooled before being sold at the farm’s shop and vending machine. The farm is confronting fears surrounding raw milk, and has built a devoted following. They also sell a delicious raw butter and beautifully creamy, unpasteurised brie called Baron Bigod. Meanwhile, Alder Tree fruit cream ices have gathered a nationwide fan-base, since Stephany Hardingham moved back to her parents’ smallholding and started producing the tubs of frozen fruity cream in 2007. Strawberries, blackberries, tayberries, gooseberries, rhubarb and raspberries are all grown on the farm – and go into 12 flavour variations. Each tub includes just fruit, British cream and sugar. It’s no wonder Nigel Slater thinks they are ‘sensational’!

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Three Suffolk breweries to try THE OLD CANNON, BURY ST EDMUNDS Pub and micro-brewery in the heart of historic Bury St Edmunds, The Old Cannon pub has been brewing on site since 1999. Made with East Angliangrown malted barley, the core beers include Best Bitter and Gunner’s Daughter. Visitors can spend a day learning how to brew and stay overnight.

EAT LOCAL

SUFFOLK

ST PETER’S, BUNGAY Established as a brewery in 1996, St Peter’s Hall dates from 1280 and is complete with moat and extensive agricultural buildings – which now house the brewery (below). The range is sold in distinctive oval bottles, and includes a Best bitter, Cream Stout, and two gluten-free ales. The brewery is open for tours from Easter to December each year. GREEN JACK, LOWESTOFT The most Easterly brewery in the UK, Green Jack began producing real ales in 2009. The bottles have won several awards and include Excelsior Golden Brown ale and Trawlerboys Best Bitter. Head to the brewery’s pub the Triangle Tavern in Lowestoft to sample the range in true Suffolk style. Brewery tours can be arranged on an individual basis. MUNTONS HOMEBREWING KITS Suffolk malt producer Muntons has grown into a major international company since its formation 90 years ago. The Suffolk site uses malted barley from a 60 mile radius and dispatches over 180,000 tonnes of malt extracts, flours and other products to the global market. You can try a flavour of East Anglian malt beers with Muntons’ range of homebrewing kits. Find out more at muntonshomebrew.com

Today, the thriving Aspall orchards are run by the eighth generation of Clement’s family. Bury St Edmunds has a long record of brewing ale – Domesday records show that monks of the Great Abbey drew water from their chalk well to make ale as early as 1086. Benjamin Greene arrived in the town in 1799 where he began making and selling his Greene King ale. Today, the 217-year-old brewing giant can still link the yeast it uses to the same strand that Benjamin started out with. Meanwhile, George and Ernest Adnams came to the Suffolk coast in 1872 and bought Sole Bay Brewery in the village of Southwold. Over the following 144 years, Adnams has grown into an award-winning and well-loved brewery with its own pubs, hotels, condiments and spirits.

GYPSY TART

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WHERE TO STAY AND WHAT TO DO! Make the most of your Suffolk sojourn with our favourite hotels, shops and cookery schools BELLE GROVE As you arrive at Belle Grove farm, with its mustardcoloured turret, bridge over the duck pond and rustic courtyard gardens, you can almost feel the ‘real world’ gently slip away. Owners Jo and Nick have created a cosy haven, filled with curiosities and textiles from their travels. Each of the five self-catering barns are a labour of love – where antique four-poster beds and exquisite wall hangings merge seamlessly with state of the art kitchens and en-suite bathrooms. Book your stay and be transported! 01986 873 124, bellegrovebarns.com

Belle grove farm

HAM DARShall old

THE BRUDENELL HOTEL Boasting one of the most stunning locations in Suffolk – The Brudenell’s doors opens straight onto Aldeburgh’s shingle beach and unbroken seascapes. The relaxed Seafood and Grill restaurant serves a great menu of fish, delivered fresh to the kitchens every morning. The bedrooms are comfortable and either have views out across the North Sea, or across the river Alde. It is perfectly positioned to enjoy the best of coastal Suffolk. 01728 452 071, brudenellhotel.co.uk

DARSHAM OLD HALL Dating back to the 13th century, the striking Old Hall is run as a B&B by Paul and Jude Rylott. Choose from one of four rooms, each with a nod to different eras of the hall’s history. From a Jacobean four poster to a hand-crafted copper bateau bath, no detail has been overlooked. And the breakfasts are unmissable! Locallysourced sausages, bacon and black pudding are all fried on the AGA, accompanied by eggs from chickens in the garden. The house sits within 60 acres of private gardens, hedegrows and woodland – shared by a 100-strong herd of pedigree alpacas. 01728 668 446, darshamoldhall.co.uk

suffo foodlk hall

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SUFFOLK FOOD HALL As a one-stop taste of Suffolk, you can’t do better than this award-winning Food Hall, just outside of Ipswich. Selling an incredible range of local produce, the large beamed barn has its own on-site bakers and butchers. It’s a broad display of the very best Suffolk has to offer. The on-farm Cookhouse restaurant serves a stunning seasonal menu, and boasts panoramic views across the river Orwell. Make sure you try the afternoon tea! 01473 786 610, suffolkfoodhall.co.uk 72


EAT LOCAL

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THE DUNE HOUSE Built by Living Architecture, this geometric gem is nestled among rolling dunes near Thorpeness. The fully-glazed ground floor commands incredible views and the upstairs rooms are wonderfully cosy. The tinted orange steel alloy roof is designed to reflect the changing colours of the wide Suffolk skies and sea. It’s a highly desirable spot so book ahead. The house sleeps nine people. Book online at living-architecture.co.uk

KENTON HALL ESTATE The farm at Kenton Hall has grown over the last few years and is now home to a beautiful farm shop and state of the art cookery school. The estate’s resident herd of Longhorn cattle is known for its marbled fat and tender meat. All the beef is butchered on site and hung for a minimum of 28 days and sold in the shop along with the farm’s pork, lamb and veg. The ‘Food Hub’ cookery school holds classes on baking, Italian cooking and seasonal dinner parties. 01728 862062, kentonhallestate.co.uk

THE COOKING EXPERIENCE Mark and Annie David run cookery classes from their well-equipped kitchen in Ipswich. Classes are sensibly sized and intimate, which means the teaching is focused and tailored to individuals. From Simple French or Thai Cooking, to Baking or Fish classes, the school offers something for everyone. You can also book group lessons – perfect if you’re planning a celebration or a Suffolk trip with friends. Visit the website for course calendar. 01473 827 568, cookingexperience.co.uk

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SUFFOLK COTTAGE HOLIDAYS Keep your stay flexible with a self-catered cottage. Since launching in 2000, family-run Suffolk Cottage Holidays has grown into a popular and trusted letting company, with an expanding collection of over 220 properties. From cosy rural retreats to coastal hideaways dotted throughout Suffolk – there’s a fantastic choice. Whether you’re looking for a romantic bolthole, an action-packed break with kids and the dog, or a large space for celebrations; you’ll find the right property here. 01394 389 189, suffolkcottageholidays.com Go to visitsuffolk.com for more places to stay and seasonal activities 73


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Belle Grove may sit in a tr corner of ru anquil ral England, but it’s conv eniently plac ed for shopping in market towns nearby Suffolk coastli and the ne mention grea , not to t food opportunities ie !

www.bellegrovebarns.com Tel: 01986 873124

As Suffolk farmers, we are proud to provide you with much of the fantastic food produced locally.

There is all that you would expect from an internationallyrecognised farm shop, and more... traditional carcass to customer butchery, scratch bakery operating seven days a week, stunning fishmonger's counter, delightful delicatessen with lots of products made in the Cookhouse commercial kitchens, wine & beer merchant, greengrocer, grocery, chocolatier...

01473 786 610 www.suffolkfoodhall.co.uk

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Taste of Suffolk

EAT LOCAL

SUFFOLK

Sample the best of Suffolk’s produce from the comfort of your own kitchen

1. Aspall Draught Cyder, £1.99, aspall.co.uk 2. Fairfields Farm Crisps Lightly Sea Salted, stockists at fairfieldsfarmcrisps.co.uk 3. Hillfarm Mayonnaise, £2.90, hillfarmoils.com 4. Suffolk Chorizo, stockists at suffolksalami.co.uk 5. Billy’s Champion Chilli Jam, £2.90, scarlettandmustard.co.uk 6. Sourdough and Sea Salt 66% Chocolate, £6.25, pumpstreetbakery.com 7. Musks Newmarket Sausages, £3.29, musks.com 8. Chilli Bites, £3.99, scarlettandmustard.co.uk 9. Edward’s Raspberry and Ginger Cordial, £12.80, yumbles.com 10. Ornamental Ginger & Soy Sauce, £3.99, scarlettandmustard.co.uk

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*Welcome Hampers supplies a pre-boxed selection of East Anglian produce, including the items below. Visit welcomehampers.co.uk for details

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Refreshing Breaks on the Pembrokeshire Coast Do you spend your days dreaming of escaping to the coast, throwing off your shoes and socks, and soaking up the instant freedom achieved by walking barefoot on the sand or the thrill of the cold sea water washing over your toes…? It’s the kind of freedom that makes you feel a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. The Pembrokeshire Coast has so many delights to discover; one holiday is simply not enough and many people return year after year to explore a different area or re-visit their treasured places. It goes without saying that if you are a beach lover you will be spoilt for choice. You can find miles of sandy beaches for romantic strolls, secret coves and popular spots for barbeques and picnics abound. Get your walking boots on and discover the stunning coastline - there are 186 miles of coastal path with breath-taking views around every turn. A day spent out walking lends itself to a well-earned stop off for a tasty 000

lunch at a welcoming pub where you may be tempted to sample some freshly caught fish. Alternatively, spend your evening dining out in one of the county’s many charming restaurants, again enjoying the best of Pembrokeshire’s produce. Coastal Cottages of Pembrokeshire, a family run business who have been providing cosy holiday cottages for almost 35 years, have an impressive portfolio; from romantic boltholes for two to large family homes - perfect for a big family gathering. Renting your own cottage allows you to get up when you want, relax, unwind, and live life at your own pace – no rush for breakfast, catch your own fish and cook it for tea, or pop down to the local farmers market and bring back some

wonderful local specialities for dinner. Alternatively, treat yourself by using Coastal Cottages Concierge Service, and experience a hamper of welsh produce on arrival, unwind with a private yoga session or spa treatment or, for the ultimate indulgence, a private chef to prepare and serve a mouth-watering meal - all in the comfort of your very own cottage. You can escape for a short refreshing break to simply recharge your batteries, or stay for longer and explore the beaches, castles, wildlife, and all the delicious treats that Pembrokeshire has to offer.

Photos © Copyright Visit Wales (2016)

For more information, to request your FREE 2016 Brochure or to book, call now on 01437 765 765 or visit www.coastalcottages.uk


● COLUMNIST | SOPHIE ATHERTON

ENT

N TR BURTON O

erton h t A e i Soph brewing e h t s l revea hts of the highlig hire town ds Staffor

The number of breweries in the UK has exploded! Once, there were just a few hundred and now there's more than 1,500 and we're probably headed towards 2,000. Almost everywhere in the UK has a local brewery – making us a true beer country once again. In the coming months I'm going on the road to visit some of Great Britain's best beer destinations, starting with Burton-on-Trent. Burton was once the brewing capital of the UK and if you're a beer-lover you definitely need to visit! Nowadays, the town's biggest beer name is the Molson Coors

Brewery, which produces beers such as Carling and Cobra on an industrial scale. Although I'm no fan of these mass produced beers, the brewery nevertheless offers up the hot, sweet aroma of malt almost the minute you step off the train. One of the reasons Burton became renowned for its beer is the local water, which is hard and rich in calcium sulphate. It lends itself to making certain styles, including the pale ale for which the town is famous. Yet ironically it's now home to a huge lager brewer – and lager is better made with soft water. Still, brewers, wherever they are, sometimes have to treat the water to fit their beer. When they need to make it harder it's known as 'Burtonising' – which is just one small indication of the town's historical importance. Burton's past is stuffed full of brewing history, going back more than 1,000 years including monks, mergers, buyouts, the canal and the railway. When you're in town make a trip to the National Brewery Centre to gen up on the town's brewing past and its importance to the whole history of beer. Beer is an incredibly versatile drink, but often it's a simple pleasure. And that's what I get out of a visit to Burton. A five minute walk from the train station is The Devonshire Arms, which is the epitome of a proper pub and one of those places which make me wish it was my local. Just across the street there's an Indian restaurant, Balti Towers, where that pleasure extends to being able to take a jug of cask ale (instead of resorting to lager, which often doesn't work with Indian food) from 'The Devi' to have with your curry. It's nothing flash but it sums up a can-do attitude to beer that I love and is one of the reasons Burton-onTrent is a favourite beer destination.

LOCAL BEER GUIDE THE BEST BREWERY: Burton Bridge Brewery. I was once told their Damson Porter (4.5%) was like 'an orgasm in a glass'! Look out for the traditionally Burton-style Bridge Bitter (4.2%) and a host of other great beers featuring British hops. WHERE TO DRINK: The Devonshire Arms (above), 86 Station St. The Coopers Tavern, Cross St, which is owned by resurrected local brewery, Joules is a very traditional old pub. Look out for the Joules pale ale, too. There's also a new micropub, The Fuggle & Nugget, on the High St. WHAT ELSE? The 37th Burton Beer & Cider Festival is at Burton Town Hall, 17-19 March 2016. *Do you live in Burton upon Trent? Let us know your favourite pubs and local brews on Twitter @buybritishfood

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u GO FISH

Megrim, cuttlefish, gurnard, whelks… there are so many native species in the UK’s seas it’s such a shame that we restrict our eating habits to cod and haddock. Gareth May seeks out some lesser known sea species and suggests ways to broaden your fishy eating habits.

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ometimes in this little kingdom we call home it can be easy to forget that we’re all floating along on a tiny island; each and every one of us a cockle’s throw from the shore. Whilst other countries are restricted from exploring the fruits of the sea we lucky few can dip our nets in at any time and sample an abundance of fin-tastic fodder – which leads us to the question, why are we Brits so shy when it comes to exploring Davy Jones’ larder? As a nation, annually we export between 80-90% of our fisheries’ catch, from oysters to gurnard it all ‘swims’ off to French bistros and Beijing restaurants; and we import the same quantity, mostly in white fish. Of course, no one can deny the appeal of battered cod and a portion of chips wrapped in yesterday’s news stories but how easy would it be to sample something new every once in a while? I went in search of some of Britain’s lesser known sea species and where better to start than in the local fishmongers? Sutton & Sons is owned and run by Danny Sutton, who started slapping fish in batter back in 1998. Their menu is pretty expansive with monkfish and coley sidling up alongside the classic cod and scampi. I asked Sutton what fish he would recommend away from the battered variety. “There is a fish called megrim,” he told me. “It’s a flat fish [predominantly] caught of the Scottish Coast, similar to

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Dover and lemon sole, but a lot cheaper to buy. It can either be cooked in the oven – with bit of white wine, capers and cherry tomatoes – or simply grilled.” Megrim is a good example of a fish we simply should be scoffing far more than we do. Yes, the French and Spanish may well be the biggest munchers of megrim but most of what they consume is caught in British waters! Part of its lacklustre appeal is due to the way it looks – it won’t be winning any underwater beauty pageants, put it that way, and it is sometimes sold as megrim sole and Cornish sole to make it more appealing for that very reason. But it’s cheap and it’s sustainable. Pop megrim on your next shopping list.

Something Fishy

Cuttlefish is another one of those sea species that often illicit an “eww” from British lips, as Denise Fraser from public body Seafish says, it’s “too messy for the Brits!” Is she right? On Seafish’s educational recipe and how-to website Fish is the


●SUSTAINABLE FISH

CATCH UP MEGRIM

It won't win any beauty pagents but it's cheap, tasty and sustainable

cuttlefish

This alienlike creature makes the most amazing calamari

GURNARDh The delicate white flesh is a great alternative to haddock

Dish, there’s a focus on trying new species in order to ease the impact on the sea’s ‘big five’ – prawns, tuna, salmon, haddock and cod. Believe it or not, as a nation we are only eating around 5% of all the fish species available and with the declining numbers of many, could cuttlefish be an underexploited species with commercial potential? Typically, as with so many of our native (and unusual species) our cuttlefish catch is shipped abroad to Europe and Asia (the Japanese alone consume around 700,000 tons of squid and cuttlefish a year). Oliver Gladwin, the London owner of British restaurants Rabbit and The Shed is certainly a fan. “Cuttlefish is abundant in our island waters so we should all eat more of it,” he says. “It can be cooked in paellas or stews, but my favourite way is to prep it like squid, marinate in kiwi to brake down the enzymes for 12-24 hours, then flour in paprika and fry in hot oil. It’s like the best calamari ever.” It certainly is – and a darn sight 79


cheaper too. CJ Jackson at Billingsgate Seafood Training School is another fan, although she says the ink can play havoc with experts and amateurs alike. “If you like squid you will love cuttlefish,” she says. “The only down side is the cleaning. They aren’t difficult to clean but do have copious amounts of black ink which is one of the reasons some fishmongers avoid them as the ink stains clothes and fingers.” A problem Jackson says is easily rectified with a pair of trusty rubber gloves.

Gurnard is the Word

A less sticky option for your sea fish experimentation is gurnard, a fish that Jackson says has been under-utilised even though are they landed regularly on these shores. “We use them at the Billingsgate school,” she says. “The head and bones are great in stock and the fillets (roasted with herbs at gas mark 6 for 8-12 minutes) have a delicate white texture and can replace other white species including haddock and plaice.” When it comes to shipping our sea’s bounty abroad nothing is as exported as much as our molluscs, particularly whelks. Caught in pots in a very low impact style of fishing, whelks are an ethical and delicious fruit of the seabed and in recent years, the Pommery Dorset Seafood Festival in Weymouth (July) has led a Great British ‘Whelk Revival’. Proprietor of the Dining Room restaurant, Taher Jibet regularly features whelks on his menu. “Whelks are nourishing, plentiful and low cost but 95% of them are exported to the Far East,” Jibet says. “We need to get the whelk back on our menus and into our fishmongers.” Jibet says that one of the problems with whelks is that they can be chewy if not cooked properly. Freezing helps as “the water crystallised and the sharp icicles break up the tissue.” The same reason you can’t freeze

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a strawberry without it turning to mush. There are many other types of sea species to try for all varying palates and flavours from the delicate and delightfully named witch to the bold and brash turbot. Clams, catfish, ling and dab… the list is endless. The question isn’t which fish should you try first, but rather, which will be your new favourite.


● SUSTAINABLE FISH

Serves: 4 Prepare: 25 minutes Cook: 35 minutes

and diced 2cm) 150ml white wine 250ml fish stock (optional) Rapeseed oil Salt and pepper

1 large cuttlefish 200g chorizo 1 red pepper, cut into 2cm dice 1 onion, peeled and chopped 2 tsps tomato purée 3 plum tomatoes 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 2 tins of tomatoes (skin, deseed

1. Cut the cuttlefish tentacles just below the eyes and remove the mouth from the middle of the tentacles. Remove all the guts from inside the hood and remove the bone. Peel the skin from outside of the hood. Cut the hood in half length ways, then into strips and cut the tentacles in half.

CUTTLEFISH & CHORIZO STEW

2. Sweat off the onions, garlic and chorizo in oil until the onions are soft, then add the cuttlefish. Cook for 8 minutes, add white wine and cook for a further 5 minutes. Now add the diced peppers and tomato purée. 3. Place the tinned tomatoes in a liquidizer and blitz, then pass through a strainer to get rid of the pips. Add the strained tomato juice and cook at a simmer for another 8 minutes, then add the diced plum tomato and season. 4. If sauce is a little thick, add some fish stock. Simmer gently for 1015 minutes until the cuttlefish is tender, then serve. Recipe courtesy of fishisthedish. co.uk 81


Mine’s a Pint!

Everyone knows beer is brilliant for drinking, but it’s also a wonderfully flavoursome cooking ingredient in its own right. Here are two of our favourite ways of using it

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●RECIPES | COOKING WITH BEER

MUSSELS IN COCONUT & BEER Serves: 2 as a main, 4 as a starter Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 20 minutes 1 kg fresh mussels 20g unsalted butter 2 tbsps olive or rapeseed oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 small red chilli, finely chopped 1 long green chilli, thinly sliced 1 stick lemon grass 1 Lebanese/Asian or Chinese aubergine (long and thin), cut in half lengthways and sliced 2.5 cm piece of ginger, peeled 75g peas 6 kaffir lime leaves, stalk removed and thinly sliced 235ml coconut milk 330ml Belgian-style wheat beer 60ml creamed coconut 1 tsp fish sauce 1 bunch fresh coriander, chopped

1. Clean and de-beard the mussels discarding any with broken shells, then set the rest aside in a colander. 2. In a pot large enough to hold the mussels on medium heat, add 1 tbsp of oil. When the oil is hot, add half of the chopped garlic and the red chilli and cook for a minute or two, stirring and being careful not to burn the garlic. Turn the heat to high and add the mussels to the pot, then one third of the bottle of beer. Put a lid on the pot and bring the beer to a boil. 3. Cook the mussels until they are all open, approx 3–5 minutes, shaking the pot vigorously to tumble the mussels. Resist the urge to take a peek by lifting the lid, as you will let the steam out of the pot and slow down the cooking process. 4. When lots of steam starts to push its way through the lid, the mussels will be done. When all or most of the mussels have opened, remove the pot from the heat and pour the mussels into a colander above a large mixing bowl to capture the cooking liquid. 5. Put the pot back on the heat, add the butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. When the butter foams, add the rest of the garlic and the green chilli and stir. With the flat of your kitchen knife or palm of your hand smash the peeled ginger so that it is squashed and falls into chunks. Add this to the pot. 6. Peel away the tough outer layers of the lemon grass stalk to reveal

the pale lower section of the stem. Use a sharp knife to trim the base. Cut the stalk into four pieces, then smash the stem with the flat side of a knife to bruise and release the flavour. Add to the pot. Add the aubergine to the pot along with the peas and the kaffir lime leaves. Stir well and cook until the aubergine has softened, about five minutes. 7. Add half of the remaining beer, the coconut milk, coconut cream and fish sauce and bring to the boil. Serve in bowls with the mussels.

RECOMMENDED BEER

To balance the spiciness of the broth without overwhelming the flavour of the mussels we’d pair with a mildly hoppy golden ale like Chiltern Brewery’s Monument Gold Pale Ale, £2.55 chilternbrewery.co.uk

CHOCOLATE, BEETROOT & STOUT CAKE Serves 10 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 20 minutes 1 large beetroot Juice of 1 large orange 150ml strong stout in the 6.5% ABV or greater range (but not too sweet), carefully warmed to a simmer 230g self-raising flour 50g cocoa powder 200g brown sugar Zest of one lemon 60g milk chocolate 60g 70% dark chocolate 100g unsalted butter, chopped 3 free range eggs, beaten For the icing: 250g icing sugar, sifted 80g unsalted butter, melted 60ml stout 40g milk chocolate, finely chopped 40g of dark chocolate 70%, finely chopped

1. Pre-heat oven to 160°C /Fan 140°C/Gas 3. Butter then line a 24cm springform cake tin with baking paper, bottom and sides. 2. Wash and trim the beetroot, cut in half and then cut each half in quarters. Place in a small saucepan with a lid, then add orange juice and gently simmer, with the lid

on, until just tender – about 20-30 minutes. Remove the beetroot and place in a bowl with cold water. When cool enough to handle, remove the skin by gently scrapping with a knife and cut into small cubes. 3. Place in a food processor and blitz until a paste forms. Add half of the stout, blitz some more, then set aside. Sift the flour and cocoa into a large bowl. Stir in the sugar and lemon zest and set aside. 4. Pour 300ml of water into a saucepan or the bottom of a bain marie or double boiler and bring to the boil before reducing to a simmer. Chop the chocolate into pieces and put in a bowl or the top portion of the double boiler and place over the simmering water. Allow the chocolate to melt before giving it a stir to combine. Add the chopped butter to the chocolate and allow it to melt before stirring to combine. Remove the bowl from the saucepan and allow the mix to cool a little before adding the three beaten eggs and then the rest of the warm stout and the beetroot purée, giving everything a good stir so it is well combined. 5. Pour the chocolate beetroot mix into the bowl with the dry ingredients and give it a good stir so there are no dry lumps, then pour into your prepared cake tin and pop that in to the oven. 6. Cook for about 40 minutes. Check the cake is done by inserting a wooden skewer into the cake – it should come out pretty clean or with just a few crumbs on it. If it comes out with wet cake mix, cook a little longer. Allow to cool before turning out. Serve warm or put in the fridge to cool while you make the icing. 7. Put the butter, stout and chocolate in a saucepan over a gentle heat and stir while it all melts then mix well together. Sift the flour into a bowl and then gradually whisk into the melted chocolate mixture until well combined and smooth. Remove from the heat and allow to cool before icing the cake. 8. After carefully icing the cake – the icing will run, so pour it carefully onto the centre of the cake and allow it to spread – put the cake in the refrigerator until the icing is set.

RECOMMENDED BEER

Dense, rich and very chocolatey, this cake is sturdy enough to stand up to the strongest of Imperial stouts, although for extra decadence we love it with Meantime’s Chocolate Porter, £21.99 for 12 bottles meantimebrewing.com 83


●RECIPES | COOKING WITH BEER

“The combination of beetroot, chocolate and stout makes for a deliciously decadent cake”

Recipes adapted from The Beer & Food Companion by Stephen Beaumont (£25, Jacqui Small)

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Luxury Bed & Breakfast

Darsham Old Hall, Suffolk Heritage Coast. The thoughtfully furnished rooms have been designed to capture the Old Hall’s rich hunting and horse-racing heritage, whilst ensuring that guests are offered the very best in modern day comforts. A sumptuous AGA cooked breakfast using only the finest locally sourced produce awaits you each morning in the breakfast room.

Tel: 01728 668446 07972 906141 Email: info@darshamoldhall.co.uk www.darshamoldhall.co.uk

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“My daughter Emily didn’t go into it with her eyes shut – she knew it would be hard” Having inherited towering cookery credentials himself, Michel Roux Jnr is now passing on skills of the kitchen to the third generation of Roux chefs; his daughter Emily. He tells Holly Brooke-Smith about the food of his family

*

My very first food memory is of churning vanilla ice cream with my father – I was probably about five years old. It was the mid-sixties and we were at the Fairlawne Estate in Kent, where my father worked. He didn’t have an electric ice cream maker – so it was a crate of crushed ice, with added salt to bring the temperature down, and an iron cylinder with a handle. After what seemed like an eternity we made ice cream! I remember being immensely proud when I got my first scoop. My relationship with my father has obviously changed a lot since then. It’s just developed naturally, in as much that I’ve grown older and so has my father – I’m no longer a child and he’s become a very wise man! It’s interesting working with my daughter Emily now, and seeing another new perspective. Cooking with Emily is great. When we work in the kitchen together we don’t have to ask questions about what we’re doing, or talk about what needs

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to be done next – everything just comes about naturally. Emily is 24, and has nearly seven years of experience in the kitchen under her belt – it’s amazing I don’t know where all that time went! Emily has wanted to be a chef since a very young age. She would come into Le Gavroche kitchens during the holidays or if she had a spare day. She started out doing really basic stuff like peeling tomatoes. We’ve always encouraged her, but definitely not pushed her in any way. If anything, my wife maybe even said ‘Whatever you do, don’t be a chef!’ She didn’t go into it with her eyes shut – she knew that it would be hard. The first thing I ever cooked for my daughter would have been something simple like pasta. But, now she has an Italian fiancée, she could probably teach me how to make proper pasta! When we eat out together we tend to go to places that are different to Le Gavroche – so not French and not too classic. We’re

constantly cooking that style of food, so it’s nice to experience something different. We love Japanese and Chinese – all sorts of food really, as long as it’s good. In London we love Zuma (zumarestaurant.com) and Andrew Wong’s fantastic Dim Sum (awong.co.uk). The Dairy (the-dairy.co.uk) and The Manor (themanorclapham. co.uk) in Clapham are both brilliant, too. Emily has showed me different approaches, different styles of dressing plates and more modern techniques. She’s introduced me to more contemporary ideas. Now she’s back in London, from Paris, we thought it would be great to do pop-ups together on Monday nights – to showcase her skills. It means that she can demonstrate her talents in the kitchen with an established customer base. I know it’s going to be popular, as places for the first night on February 1st sold out in less than an hour! For more info on events at Le Gavroche visit le-gavroche.co.uk


● THE GBF INTERVIEW | MICHEL ROUX JNR

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9 IDEAS WITH...

SAVOY CABBAGE

Whether it's a centrepiece or a side dish, this hearty British vegetable can be sautéed, steamed, braised and blitzed. We share our favourite ways to cook the emerald green delight

1 SAVOY CABBAGE & POTATO SOUP WITH BACON

4 STIR-FRIED SAVOY CABBAGE WITH CARAWAY

Boil potatoes in stock, add cabbage and blitz into a smooth purée. Loosen with more stock and serve with fried strips of bacon.

Heat oil in a wok on a medium heat. Remove the tough stems of your cabbage and finely shred the leaves, then fry in the wok with caraway seeds. Season with salt and pepper and stir in a knob of butter to serve.

2 SAVOY CABBAGE, WALNUT & APPLE SALAD

5 SAVOY CABBAGE WITH ALMONDS

Whisk together rapeseed oil, cider vinegar, honey, salt and pepper. Add toasted walnuts to a bowl with a thinly sliced head of a cabbage and chopped apples. Serve with hard cheese shavings and the dressing.

3 CREAMY SAVOY CABBAGE WITH CARROTS

Pull off the outer leaves of a cabbage and shred them, cut carrots into thin strips and put everything in a pan of boiling water. Drain and return to a hot pan and add butter and double cream, finally seasoning with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg.

Steam shredded cabbage until just cooked. Melt butter and oil in a wok and add garlic, rosemary and blanched almonds. Cook the almonds until browned then set aside. Add the cabbage to the pan, stir in buttery juices and return the almond mixture to the pan.

6 SAVOY CABBAGE WITH CHORIZO, SHALLOTS & RICE

Heat oil in a pan and sweat shallots and garlic with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add bay leaves, finely sliced cabbage leaves and pieces of chorizo sausage. Cook over a medium heat, add boiled rice and mix well.

7 PAN-FRIED SAVOY CABBAGE WITH RAPESEED OIL & GARLIC Remove the outer leaves of a washed cabbage and roughly chop. Put rapeseed oil, garlic, cabbage and salt in a pan with the lid on. Sauté for a few minutes then serve.

8 SAVOY CABBAGE WITH GREEN CHILLI & CUMIN

Heat oil and black mustard seeds in a pan and add chopped onion. Shortly after add cumin seeds, garlic, chopped ginger and green chilli. Next include turmeric and salt, then stir in shredded cabbage. After a while add water, stir, then cover and cook. Serve in a warmed side dish.

9 BUTTERED SAVOY CABBAGE & LEEKS

Blanch leek and shredded cabbage in a pan of boiling water and then drain. Melt a knob of butter in the pan and add garlic. Add the leek and cabbage back in and sauté.

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GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:24 Page 90


THE

Ultimate Guide to

BAKING!

Including... Bread with a twist from Paul Hollywood * *20 life-changing baking hacks *Delicious tray bakes from The Hummingbird Bakery *Our baking must-buys for spring

* SEASONALBERRIES.CO.UK

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s p i T & s t n 20 Hi

to Make you a Better Baker 1

Eggs used in baking should always be room temperature; if you're short on time, place in a bowl of warm water for 10-15 minutes.

2 3

For consistently sized cupcakes and muffins, use an ice cream scoop to spoon the batter into your pans. Cool cakes upside down to ensure a flat top; this makes layering and decorating them so much easier.

4

The smaller bags of flour or sugar in the supermarket are always poor value; if you're a regular baker buy as big as possible. World food shops are always a great source for big bags of cheap spices and aromatics.

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Baking powder and soda lose their lifting power over time, so try to replace tubs every 6 months to be safe. The freezer is your friend! Sponge cakes will keep for about three months, as will buttercream. Great to have on hand for cake emergencies.

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You don't need expensive kit to decorate your cakes with intricate designs – simply use a doily or even lace as a stencil and sprinkle icing sugar over the top.

8

Keep brown sugar from going hard by storing it in a jar with a slice of bread or a large marshmallow. To soften sugar quickly, microwave in a dish covered with a piece of kitchen paper for 20 seconds.

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To prevent splatters when using an electric whisk, take a paper plate, pierce a hole in the centre and place it above the beaters. Voilà, no more messy kitchen!

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LOUISE ABBOTT

Egg-free meringues... yes it can be done!

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The leftover liquid from a can of chickpeas (called aquafaba) makes a surprisingly excellent alternative to eggs in meringues: take the liquid from one can and mix using a stand or hand mixer for about 5 minutes until it's almost doubled in size. Slowly mix in 125g of icing sugar and ½ tsp of vanilla extract until stiff peaks form. Use in recipes as you would normal meringues.


“A wine bottle makes a handy pastry rolling alternative if you find yourself without a rolling pin”

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A wine bottle (or even a tall spirit bottle) makes a handy pastry rolling alternative if you find yourself without a rolling pin.

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If you've ever cracked an egg then you've definitely got shell in the bowl at some point! Remove it easily by wetting your finger and placing in next to the shell fragments – they'll gravitate towards you.

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Make a habit of always banging your tin of cake mixture on the kitchen counter a few times before putting in the oven – it'll release any air bubbles to give you a more even bake.

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Keep your non-stick tins and pans in good condition for longer by always hand washing them instead of using the dishwasher.

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Only fill cake, muffin and bread tins ¾ full with batter to avoid overspill and burnt sides. For shortcrust pastry that's both perfectly crisp and full of flavour, use half lard and half butter.

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Make extra use of cookie cutters by using them to make fun pastry or icing shapes to decorate pies and cakes.

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Buttermilk isn't very widely available in British shops, so if you have a recipe that calls for it, improvise by adding a tablespoon of lemon juice to plain milk and leaving for 10 minutes.

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If a recipe calls for ripe bananas but you only have fresh, speed the process up by baking the fruit at a medium temperature for about 30 minutes.

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Make your own gluten-free flour by simply blending gluten-free oats in a blender until you get a fine powder.

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If the worst happens and you burn your biscuits, grab a grater and file off the over-cooked parts. They won't look perfect, but they'll still taste great!

How to Make

Perfect Buttercream

Donna Taylor at online baking store Cake Links shares her tips for making the simplest cake topping of all

*All you need is butter, icing sugar, boiled cooled water, and a good stand mixer. We recommend using a quality, pale, unsalted butter, (not spreadable or margarine). *To make enough buttercream for a 10" cake or 18 cupcakes, use 500g of butter and 1kg of icing sugar. *Slightly soften the butter by leaving it out

of the fridge for 15 minutes, chop into small pieces, and put into a mixing bowl. Add the icing sugar gradually while beating, using the flat beater blade of your stand mixer, not the whisk. Mix on a slow setting for about 8 minutes, adding a drop of water if needed to make it less stiff.

*By beating instead of whisking you are breaking down the sugar and creating a whiter buttercream that will look great in your cakes or as toppings on cupcakes. cake-links.com

“Remove egg shell easily by wetting your finger and placing in the bowl next to the shell fragments – they'll gravitate towards you”

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BAKE & SHARE

We've transformed the humble Bakewell tart and pineapple upside-down cake into deliciously sweet slices that are perfect for sharing with a group

“This famous English tart, with its distinctive jam filling and almond taste, originated from Derbyshire in the 1800's and makes a fabulous tray bake”

BAKEWELL SLICE Serves: 15 Prepare: 35 minutes Cook: 55 minutes For the raspberry base: 300g plain flour 90g soft light brown sugar 5g ground almonds 188g unsalted butter, softened 150g raspberry jam 200g frozen British raspberries, defrosted 94

For the frangipane filling: 125g unsalted butter 125g golden caster sugar 1 large free range egg 150g ground almonds ½ tsp almond extract A handful of flaked almonds, for sprinkling on top For the glaze: 65g icing sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Lightly grease a 33x23cm baking tray and line with parchment paper. Put the flour, sugar and ground almonds into a bowl and stir to combine. Add the softened butter and, using an electric hand mixer beat until well combined and the mixture has a crumb like consistency. 2. Press this mixture evenly into the base of the baking tray and bake on the middle rack of the oven for 10-15minutes, or until golden brown on top and firm to the touch. Remove from the oven (leave the oven on) and allow to cool for 10-15 minutes before


spreading with the raspberry jam and scattering the fresh raspberries over the top. Set aside while you prepare the frangipane filling. 3. In a bowl, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, using an electric hand mixer. Add the egg and mix until just combined. Add the ground almonds and almond extract and beat again. 4. Carefully spread this mixture evenly over the raspberry base and sprinkle some flaked almonds over the top. Return the tray to the oven and bake for 35-40 minutes, or until an inserted skewer comes out clean. If the top starts to brown too quickly, cover with a piece of kitchen foil until the slice is cooked through. Leave to cool slightly while you prepare the glaze. 5. Mix the icing sugar and 1 tablespoon of water together in a bowl, using an electric hand mixer or a wooden spoon, until you have a smooth glaze with a coating consistency. When the slice is almost cool ,drizzle the glaze in diagonals across the whole slice. Allow it to set and then cut as desired to serve. Keep any uneaten slice in an airtight container at room temperature for 3-4 days. PINEAPPLE UPSIDEDOWN SLICE Serves: 15 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 40 minutes For the base: 12 tinned pineapple slices, drained (reserve the juice) 150ml pineapple juice (from the tins) 200g light brown sugar For the sponge: 150g self raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 150g unsalted butter, at room temperature 150g light brown sugar 3 large free range eggs 60ml sour cream

1. Lightly grease a 33x23 cm baking tray and line with parchment paper. Drain the pineapple slices and reserve juice from the tins. Measure out 150ml of pineapple juice and pour into a small pan, then stir in the brown sugar. Bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and allow the mixture to simmer until it takes on a thick syrup-like consistency. This will take 3-5minutes. 2. Pour the syrup into the prepared tray, making sure it covers the bottom of the tray. Arrange the

pineapple slices neatly in the syrup. Set aside. 3. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Combine the flour and baking powder and set aside. In a separate bowl, cream the butter and sugar with an electric hand mixer until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, making sure each one is well incorporated before adding the next. Add the flour mixture and mix until combined. Finally, add the sour cream and beat until thoroughly incorporated. 4. Spoon the batter on top of the pineapple slice in the baking tray and spread it out evenly. Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until golden brown on top and an inserted skewer comes out clean. 5. Allow to cool in the baking tray, then turn out onto a serving plate, pineapple-side-up, and peel off the

“With it's pretty appearance and sticky, caramel-like texture, upside-down cake is a retro classic made even better here!” parchment paper. Cut the slice into squares, or as desired. It might be nice to make the squares roughly the same size as the pineapple rings so you have a pineapple ring in the middle of each square. Recipes taken from Primrose Bakery Everyday by Martha Swift (£12.99, Random House) 95


BAKE IN STYLE We can't get enough of the new Varsity range from Mason Cash. Matching natty navy blue with crisp cream, the subtle colour scheme would suit most kitchens, and each piece is made from chip-resistant stoneware that will stay smart for years to come. Stockists at masoncash.co.uk

Back to School

These fab cookery schools are just the thing for bakers looking to improve their skills 1. BakeWELL, Great Dunmow As well as being an Aladdin's cave of homemade cakes, patisserie and baking kit, BakeWELL also run a host of fantastic hands-on courses for cooks of all levels, including Decorating Basics, Creative Cupcakes and The Magic of Macaroons. youcanbakewell.co.uk 2. Bettys Cookery School, Harrogate The team at Yorkshire institution Bettys also run a cracking cookery school, where you can learn how to perfect some of the famous tearoom's most prized recipes Classes that caught our eye include Yorkshire Bread and Teatime Treats. bettyscookeryschool.co.uk

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LOUISE ABBOTT

3. Ashburton Cookery School, Devon Considered one the UK's finest cookery schools, Ashburton offers a huge variety of courses across all areas, though patisserie and bread-making classes are particularly acclaimed. ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk

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All You Need

BAKING BLOGGER HATTIE BAKEWELL TELLS US WHICH PIECES OF KIT SHE COULDN'T DO WITHOUT JOSEPH JOSEPTH MULTI ROLLING PIN The perfect product for a pastry aficionado, allowing you to roll thicknesses of 2mm, 4mm, 6mm and 10mm with the use of removable discs. KITCHEN CRAFT NON-STICK PASTRY MAT I use this daily! Unlike wooden pastry boards, rolled icing doesn't stick to this mat, meaning you won't need to use heaps of icing sugar (drying out your icing and spoiling your finish) for covering cakes. Doubles as a great biscuit, pie and pastry guide too. OXO Good Grips Pop Container Square 2.3 Litre Any baker worth their salt knows you should store your ingredients in air-tight containers to keep them fresh and achieve good results every time. I love this size for storing flour or sugar, and the pop-up handle makes it perfect for stacking multiple containers. SWEETLY DOES IT NON-STICK CAKE TIN LINER Cutting up greaseproof is one of those annoying little tasks every baker hates. Save yourself some time by purchasing pre-cut rolls of cake tin liner. Both sides are silicone coated and it comes in 25 meter lengths, which last for ages.

BE A BETTER BAKER

We asked Alexandra Blyth, baking pro at Pyrex, for her top tips for stress free baking *Trust the Recipe When it comes to quantities, baking isn't the place to experiment. It's a fairly exact science, so unless you're an extremely confident cook (or are happy to risk a batch going wrong) stick to the recipe. Save your creative flair for toppings, decorations and fillings! *Think Long-Term Invest in a few quality items that will go the distance. The options are endless, but for something a bit different, Pyrex has a great selection of glass mixing bowls, measuring jugs, flan dishes, baking trays, loaf and cake dishes. They can all be used in the oven, microwave, fridge and freezer, are scratch resistant and easy to clean as well. *Embrace technology Some bakers swear by keeping it simple with just a mixing bowl and a wooden spoon. But if you do have access to a lovely stand mixer or high tech gadget, don't be afraid to take a short cut – you're not cheating! Anything that can improve your bakes while also saving time (and washing up) is something to embrace.

STAINLESS ICING SET WITH 5 NOZZLES Perfect for piping inscriptions, borders and patterns onto your finished cakes. Adds a professional finish to even the simplest of cakes in no time at all. Use to pipe royal icing, buttercream and even sauces. You'll find the syringe very easy to control and accurate.

All products available from abraxascookshop.com. Look out for Hattie's guest blogs on the website too

*Hot or Not If your bakes keep failing, despite following the recipe, the problem may be the temperature of your oven, so it might be worth investing in an oven thermometer. Also, never open the oven door before the cooking time is up – check through the door – and don’t be tempted to put your goodies in the oven before it has reached the required temperature. *Buy the Best It sounds obvious, but quality raw ingredients will always improve the taste of your bakes – so buy the best butter, flour and sugar you can afford. The same goes for kit; don't be tempted by cheap pans that will be scratched and sticky after a single use. For example, Pyrex has a 10-year guarantee across all of its glassware, making it well worth paying a few pounds for. pyrexuk.com

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PAUL HOLLYWOOD'S

BETTER BREAD

Paul Hollywood shows you how to include delicious ingredients such as dried fruit, bacon and even potatoes into your breads

POTATO FOCACCIA PUGLIESE Makes: 1 loaf Prepare: 15 minutes, plus 2 hours rising time Cook: 30 minutes

DATE & FIG BREAD Makes: 2 loaves Prepare: 15 minutes, plus 2 hours rising time Cook: 25 minutes 400g wholemeal flour 100g strong white flour, plus extra for dusting 5g salt 20g yeast 50g butter, softened 1 tbsp treacle 75g dried figs, chopped 75g dates, chopped 98

500g strong white flour, plus extra for dusting 5g salt 20g yeast 300ml water 4–5 new potatoes, scrubbed and thinly sliced Drizzle of rapeseed oil Rock salt 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, destalked

1. Put the flour, salt, yeast and water into a bowl and mix to form a dough. Leave in the bowl to double in size for about 1 hour. 2. Cook the potatoes in boiling, salted water for 2 minutes to soften.

Drain. Line a baking tray. Tip the dough out onto the baking tray and flatten with your hands, then brush with oil and, using your fingers, make indentations over the surface. Layer the potatoes over the top, sprinkle with a little rock salt and stud with the rosemary sprigs. Leave to rise on the baking tray for 1 hour. 3. Preheat the oven to 230°C/Fan 210°C/Gas 8. Bake for 25 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven and brush the loaf with more oil, then transfer to a wire rack and serve when cooled. ONION & BACON FOUGASSES Makes: 3 fougasses Prepare: 30 mintues, plus 6 hours rising time Cook: 15 minutes 400g strong white flour 20g yeast 200ml water 1 tsp salt 75ml olive or rapeseed oil 1 onion, peeled, finely chopped and fried until translucent 3 rashers of back bacon, finely chopped and fried

1. Line three baking trays. Put 200g of the flour with all the yeast and about 175ml of water into a bowl and beat together for about 3 minutes into a thick batter. Leave to rise and fall – this should take 3-4 hours. 2. Add the remaining flour and water along with the salt, 60ml of the oil, the fried onion and bacon, and knead well for 5 minutes. Put

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LOUISE ABBOTT

1. Put the flours, salt, yeast, butter, treacle and 300 ml of water into a bowl and mix for 5 minutes. Tip out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 minutes, then put the dough back in the bowl and leave for 1 hour to rise. 2. Line a baking tray. Incorporate the figs and dates into the dough, then divide it into two equal pieces. Shape into balls, place on the baking tray and leave to rise for 1 hour. 3. Preheat the oven to 220°C/ Fan 200°C/ Gas 7. Dust the loaves with flour and, using a knife, make three equidistant horizontal cuts all around each ball. Bake for 25 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool.


ILLUSTRATIONS BY LOUISE ABBOTT

“I made this with a couple of Sicilian friends when I was in Italy, and was astounded by the flavours from the potatoes – they marry so well with the rosemary and bread”

back in the bowl and leave to rise for 1 hour. 3. Divide the dough into three equal pieces. Using a rolling pin, flatten each piece into a circle roughly 22cm inches in diameter. Using a knife, make a slash down the middle of each circle and three diagonal slashes on each side, opening the slashes slightly with your fingers. Place on the baking trays, brush lightly with the remaining oil and leave to rise for 1 hour. 4. Preheat the oven to 230°C/Fan 210°F/Gas 8. Bake for 15 minutes until golden brown, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. 100 Great Breads by Paul Hollywood (£16.99, Octopus)

BBC PICTURES

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GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:25 Page 100

Open Monday-Saturday 8am-5pm

Here is the answer to those little voices begging to bake. Our baking kits can be done simply, quickly, and with as little mess as possible when children and flour meet! Five yummy varieties that will get your little bakers mixing, learning, and having great fun! All our kits are made with only natural colours and flavourings.

Bake Happy Ltd Tel: 01765 689 274 Mobile: 07779 340 799 www.justpuds.co.uk/bakehappy 100


SIMPLE PLEASURES

Sometimes the simplest bakes are the best; these classic cakes and puds are easy to make, wonderfully comforting and look fantastic

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LOUISE ABBOTT

“Adding grated carrots to a cake batter makes it moist and sweet. The flavour is not discernible once the cake is cooked, but it imparts a moist texture”

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GBF LOVES... Whether you're tempering chocolate or just want super accurate readings every time, the SuperFast Thermapen is a baking staple for us. From £48 thermapen.co.uk

BRIÔCHE BREAD & BUTTER PUDDING CARROT CAKE WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING Serves: 8-10 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 50 minutes 300ml sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing 300g self-raising flour, sifted 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp grated nutmeg 300g caster sugar 4 free range eggs 250g carrots, grated and squeezed to remove excess moisture 75g walnuts, roughly chopped For the icing: 100g unsalted butter, softened 100g cream cheese, at room temperature 400g icing sugar Grated zest of 1 large orange, plus extra to decorate

1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC/ Fan 160ºC/Gas 4. Grease and line 2 x 23cm cake tins with baking parchment. Combine the flour, spices, and caster sugar in a bowl. Beat the eggs and oil in a jug and add to the dry ingredients. Then

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add the carrots and walnuts and stir well to form a stiff batter. 2. Divide the batter equally between the tins. Bake for 45–50 minutes, until the cakes are golden brown and an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Cool in the tins on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Then turn them out and place on a wire rack to cool completely. 3. For the icing, whisk the butter and cream cheese in a bowl until smooth. Gradually whisk in the icing sugar, until combined. Then add the orange zest and whisk well. Sandwich the cakes with one-third of the icing.

Use the remaining icing to cover the top and sides of your cake. Sprinkle over a little orange zest and serve. You can store the cake in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Serves: 4-6 Prepare: 10 minutes, plus cooling and resting Cook: 45 minutes, Unsalted butter, for greasing 250g briôche, cut into 2.5cm cubes 2 free range eggs 50g caster sugar 200ml whole milk 200ml double cream Icing sugar, for dusting Chocolate ice cream, to serve (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4). Grease a 20 x 25cm ovenproof dish. Spread out the briôche pieces in the dish, pressing down gently to form an even layer. 2. Place the eggs and caster sugar in a bowl and whisk to combine. Add the milk and cream, a little at a time, whisking constantly to combine. 3. Pour the mixture over the briôche, pushing down to help the liquid to absorb. Rest for 5 minutes. Place the dish in a large roasting tin. Pour hot water into the tin. 4. Bake for 40–45 minutes, until golden brown. Lift the dish out of the tin and leave to cool slightly. Dust with icing sugar. Serve with chocolate ice cream, if desired. You can store the pudding, covered in the fridge, for up to 2 days.


"Originally conceived as an everyday dessert that took advantage of storecupboard ingredients, rich and creamy versions of bread and butter pudding are now favourites at dinner parties, restaurants and pudding bars�

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Recipes from Step-By-Step Desserts by Caroline Bretherton and Kristan Raines. Published by DK (ÂŁ20.00) 103


PEANUT BUTTER FONDANT Makes: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes, plus cooling and chilling Cook: 20 minutes 150g unsalted butter 150g good quality dark chocolate, finely chopped 3 large free range eggs 75g caster sugar 1 heaped tbsp plain flour Cocoa powder 4 heaped tbsps creamy peanut butter

1. Grease four 200ml ramekins with unsalted butter and place in the fridge to chill. Melt 150g of the finely chopped good-quality dark chocolate and unsalted butter in a heatproof bowl over a small saucepan of simmering water. Stir and leave to cool. 2. Preheat the oven to 200ยบC/Fan 180ยบC/Gas 6. Whisk the eggs and caster sugar in a large bowl, until fluffy and tripled in volume. Whisk in the chocolate mixture until well combined. Sift the plain flour into the mixture and gently fold it in. 3. Lightly dust the ramekins with cocoa powder, shaking off any excess. Half-fill the ramekins with the fondant mixture, spreading it out to form an even base. Shape the peanut butter into balls and place one in each ramekin. Divide the remaining fondant mixture between the ramekins, covering the peanut butter completely. 4. Bake the fondants in the oven for 12 minutes, until the sides are set and the centre is soft to the touch. Leave to cool for 1 minute, before turning them out. Dust with cocoa powder, if desired, and serve immediately.

PLAN AHEAD You can wrap the fondant mixture in cling film at the end of step 3 and chill up to 2 days ahead, or freeze them up to 1 month ahead. Bring to room temperature before baking. 104


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:25 Page 105

Traditional tea breads, biscuits & cakes, ~ since 1865

“From plum bread, biscuits, pork pies & cakes, to gift vouchers, hampers & celebratory makes” Visit Bothams - in person or online ! 35/39 SKINNER STREET, WHITBY, YO21 3AH TEL: 01947 602823 WEB: WWW.BOTHAM.CO.UK

info@abraxascookshop.com

www.abraxascookshop.com 01327-341080 10.00am – 5.00pm daily 105


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GET KITTED OUT

Stock your kitchen and pantry with these brilliant baking buys

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1 Ball Quilted Crystal Jam Jars, prices start from £4.49 for 4

11 Propermaid Beetroot & White Chocolate Cake, £9.99 ocado.com

2 Tate & Lyle Icing Sugar Shaker, £1.20 ocado.com

12 B is for Brownie 'The

3 Clarence Court Free Range Duck Eggs, £2.62 ocado.com

4 Calon Wen Organic Unsalted Butter, £1.75 ocado.com

Madagascan', £18 bisfor brownie.co.uk

13 Lakeland Hearts Cake Tins, £24.99 lakeland.co.uk

14 Pyrex Classic Glass Measure

5 Uncle Roy's Natural Apricot

250ml, £5.99 from Ocado and Argos

6 Foodie Flavours Retro Set,

15 Cake Angels Flower Fun

7 Just Puds Little Prints Biscuit Kit,

16 Betty's Biscuit Selection Tin,

8 Pain Multigraine, £3.15/Pain Paul, £2.55 from Paul stores paul-uk.com

17 Nordic Ware Bavaria Bundt Pan,

Essence, £2.95 uncleroys.co.uk

£14.99 foodieflavours.com

£3.99 justpuds.co.uk

9 Hummingbird Bakery Measuring Spoons, £15 amazon.co.uk

Decorations, £1.60 tesco.com

£17.95 bettys.co.uk

£35.99 hartsofstur.com

18 Pyrex Bake & Enjoy Glass

Quiche Flan dish, £9.99 from Ocado and Argos

10 Emma Bridgewater Polka

Folk Border Cake Plate, £69.95 emmabridgewater.co.uk

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17 14

18

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●RECIPES | VENISON

Bucking THE TREND

The

Once the preserve of royalty, venison has never been more readily available to cooks from supermarkets and butchers alike; these recipes show just how versatile this delicious and lean meat can be TRIO OF VENISON STEAKS: SHERRY & CREAM SAUCE STEAKS Serves: 4 Prepare: 5 minutes Cook: around 10 minutes 4 x 150g venison haunch steaks from the silverside or topside Salt and pepper Rapeseed oil 25g butter 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 1 glass of sweet sherry 50ml venison or dark chicken stock 150ml double cream

1. Season the steaks and pan fry in a little oil until cooked to your taste. Remove the steaks from the pan and allow to rest while you make the sauce. 2. Add the butter to the pan. Once melted, add the finely chopped shallots and allow to sweat until soft. Add the sherry to the shallots and reduce by half, then add the stock and reduce by half. Now add the cream and reduce to a coating consistency. Season the sauce and serve with the steaks. BLUE CHEESE MELT STEAKS Serves: 4 Prepare: 5 minutes, plus chilling time Cook: 10 minutes 100ml double cream 20g Gorgonzola Piccante cheese,

x 150g venison haunch steaks from the silverside or topside Salt and pepper

1. Pour the cream into a saucepan and bring to a simmer, then add the cheese. Once the cheese has melted, stir well then pour into a small bowl and allow to cool in the fridge. Season the steaks and pan fry in a little oil until cooked to your taste. Remove the steaks from the pan and allow to rest. Take the cheese mixture out of the fridge. 2. Place the steak on a heat-proof serving plate and add a spoonful of cheese to each one then place under a grill to melt slightly. Serve at once. TERIYAKI GLAZED STEAKS Serves: 4 Prepare: 5 minutes, plus marinating time Cook: 10 minutes 150ml soy sauce 35g honey 4 x 150g venison haunch steaks from the silverside or topside 40ml mirin wine

*Th joint

*SH mak

*Ve roas

1. Mix together the soy sauce, honey and mirin wine in a bowl. Place the steaks in the bowl, making sure they are covered by the marinade. Leave for 2 hours then remove steaks from marinade and pat dry. 2. Place the marinade in a pan and reduce to a glaze. Pan fry the steak with a little oil until cooked to your taste. When the steaks are ready and the glaze is reduced, brush the glaze thoroughly over the steaks then slice with a sharp knife and serve at once. Delicious with chips, onion rings and mushrooms.

*Th price occa

*RIB butc pork

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VENISON SCOTCH EGGS WITH PICKLED CUCUMBER & PORTPOACHED REDCURRANTS Serves: 4 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 15 minutes 6 fresh free-range eggs (two beaten together) 500g minced shoulder of venison 6 rashers streaky bacon 2 sprigs thyme 1 sprig rosemary

“Venison steaks are taken from the haunch muscles: namely, the topside, silverside and the thick flank. These are all juicy, tender steaks that need only minimal cooking” 109


THE BEST CUTS FOR THE JOB The HAUNCH, or back leg, is mostly used as a roasting joint in a similar way to a leg of lamb. SHOULDER is a tough cut with plenty of flavour, making it great for slowcooking or turning into mince Venison LOIN is a particularly versatile cut – great for roasting or slicing into steaks The RACK is taken from the best end and can be pricey, but it makes a fantastic centrepiece for special occasions RIBS probably won’t be readily available, so ask your butcher; they make a deliciously lean alternative to BBQ pork ribs

Salt and pepper, to taste 100g flour 100g panko breadcrumbs 10g smoked paprika 1 cucumber 5g turmeric 50ml apple vinegar 50g caster sugar 200ml port wine 100g redcurrants 1 litre vegetable oil

1. Start by making the eggs. Place 4 eggs (cold from the fridge) in a pan of cold water. Bring to the boil and when the water just starts to boil, turn to a simmer, start the timing and cook the eggs for 5 minutes. Cool the eggs under cold running water and carefully peel the shell, making sure not to break into the egg. 2. Take the venison, streaky bacon, picked and chopped fresh thyme and rosemary and mince all together in a grinder on a medium coarse die. You could also ask your butcher to do this. Add freshly ground black pepper and salt and mix well. Test a small amount of the meat for seasoning by cooking in a pan. Split the minced venison into 4 and flatten out. Place the egg in the centre and fully cover and seal the egg in the venison mince. 3. Mix the smoked paprika with the flour and dust each egg, shaking to 110

Venison LIVER has a robust flavour that offal fans will love; try it in pâtés or fry gently in lots of butter

remove excess flour. Place into the remaining beaten eggs, then into the finely blended panko crumbs. Repeat the egg and bread crumb stage. 4. Put the eggs to one side while you make the pickled cucumber. Peel and remove the seeds from the cucumber and dice into small cubes. In a dry pan add the turmeric and sugar, dissolve the sugar and as soon as it starts to caramelise, carefully add the vinegar to make a sharp, sweet pickling liquor.

Remove from the heat and add the diced cucumber. 5. For the port-poached redcurrants: reduce the port in a pan until it is a quarter of its original volume. The consistency should be thick but still movable and able to run. Add the redcurrants and remove from the heat, stirring just to warm them. 6. To finish the dish: heat the vegetable oil to a medium temperature in a pan or to 180°C for a deep fat fryer. Carefully drop the eggs into the oil and cook for around 4 minutes until the breadcrumbs are golden brown and the meat is cooked. Slice in half and serve with the pickled cucumber and the port-glazed redcurrants. The yolk of the egg should still be soft but warm. If you prefer your eggs fully cooked, boil them for longer in the first step.


●RECIPES | VENISON

MOROCCAN-STYLE VENISON TAGINE Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 2 hours Light olive or rapeseed oil 1kg venison shoulder, diced 1 onion, peeled 3 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tsps ground cumin 1 tsp turmeric 2 tsps garam masala 1 tsp ground coriander 1½ tsp harissa paste 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 x 400g tin chopped plum tomatoes 1 litre white game or chicken stock 80g sultanas 100g dried apricots 50g almonds, whole, blanched Fresh coriander 300g couscous Salt and pepper Fresh coriander to garnish

1. Heat a splash of oil in a large shallow pan. When hot, add half the venison and seal on all sides then remove from the pan. Repeat with the rest of the meat and remove again. Next, finely chop the onion and garlic and in the same pan used for the meat, gently heat some more oil to sweat the onion and garlic for 4-5 minutes – don’t let it colour. 2. Lower the heat and add the dry spices and harissa paste to the onions and garlic, allowing the oil to warm the spices and release their flavours. Return the meat to the pan and stir well. Add the tomato purée and cook for another 5 minutes on a low heat. Add the tinned tomatoes, bring to the boil stirring, then add the hot stock and again stir back the to boil then turn the heat down to a simmer for 1 hour 30 mins or until the meat is tender. 10mins before serving, add the sultanas, apricots and almonds. 4. Add 300ml of boiling water to the couscous, season, stir well then allow to stand for 10 mins then garnish with the chopped coriander. Recipe courtesy of Tom Egerton Recipes taken from Venison: The Game Larder by Jose Souto (£25, Merlin Unwin Books). Photography by Steve Lee

GBF FOOD HEROES *Scotland is famous for its fantastic

quality wild venison, and Great Glen Charcuterie have been creating wonderful things with the prized ingredient for over ten years. Anja and Jan Jacob create a stunning selection of air-dried meats that really capture the flavour of wild venison, from perfectly spiced Chilli Chorizo (£4.39) to Green Pepper Salami (£5.49) and deliciously moreish slices of Venison Bresaola. Try it now! greatglencharcuterie.com

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La Cafetiere Origins Grinder

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Copper Dustbin £65, hollys-house.com

FAIR COP Our pick of some of the most stylish copper kitchenware

Falk Starter Set £420, falkculinair.co.uk

De'Longhi Distinta Coffee Maker £180, John Lewis

National Trust Country Kitchen Collection creative-tops.com

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● SHOPPING

Karlsson Copper Wall Watch

£105, thedesigngiftshop.com

Salt & Pepper Set £20, tch.net

Orson Bar Stool

£99, swooneditions.com

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ere at Great British Food we're giving away a FREE* silicone muffin tray with the Cake and Bake Collection. This collection has more than 100 mouth watering ideas for bakers of all skill levels. Whether you need something sweet to impress guests at the end of a dinner party, or wholesome breakfast muffins to kickstart your day our easy to follow recipes span all manner of tasty

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● GBF PROMOTION

FALK CULINAIR

The Great COPPER COMEBACK Copper is having more than just a moment, it's experiencing a complete revival. We talk to Falk Culinair about its impenetrable appeal

W

atch any television cookery show, visit any professional kitchen or walk around any department store and you're likely to spot a vast collection of gleaming copper pans perfectly hung in size order – beautiful and functional. Copper was the cooking metal of choice for hundreds of years before the arrival of aluminium and stainless steel, which don't need as much maintenance to keep them in good condition – an attraction to many cooks of the time! That all changed in 1984 when Falk Culinair pioneered a new method of producing copper cookware, using a technology that has revolutionised the copper market. The craftsmen at Falk discovered that they could combine a plate of copper with a thin sheet of stainless steel under extremely high pressure to produce a high-quality bimetal copper product. This created

cookware with all the conductivity advantages of copper but with an interior layer of stainless steel for a strong, modern and durable finish. The benefits of cooking with bimetal copper mean heat spreads evenly and can reach very precise temperatures. This helps to reduce and increase heat very quickly, allowing you to braise, fry, and sear food to perfection. What’s more, stainless steel is extremely hygienic and almost indestructible. Director at Falk Culinair in the UK, Neil Corke explains what makes the technology unique. “For years people used to think copper was high maintenance and it often was. Re-tinning pans was expensive and polishing them took a long time, however the bimetal technology we’ve developed means chefs and home cooks can enjoy all of the benefits of copper without the laborious upkeep.” He continues, “the shiny copper finish of other brands look beautiful

in the showroom, but in reality they get tarnished very quickly and clearly show fingerprints. To overcome issue we developed a brushed finish that reduces the need for regular polishing, resulting in more time spent cooking and less spent cleaning – the only equipment required is some warm water and cleaning powder.” Copper’s distinctive burnt orange colour makes these pans as much of a fashion statement as they are a functional part of the kitchen. Nobody can deny the allure of copper pans hanging in size order, waiting to be used to create something delicious. It's no wonder copper pans are one of the most popular wedding gifts requested by couples setting up home – a quality set of pans will last a lifetime. A classical range starter set, made up of three pieces each with a rustic cast iron handle and cover starts from £420. falkculinair.co.uk 0800 1337560 115


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CREEKSIDE COTTAGE Near Falmouth, Cornwall

Waters-edge, village and rural cottages sleeping 2 - 8. Enchanting picturesque positions, peaceful and comfortable. Open fires. Dogs welcome. Available throughout the year. 01326 375972 www.creeksidecottages.co.uk 116


●RECIPES | RICK STEIN

Rick Stein’s

Springtime Suppers These Mediterranean-inspired dishes from Rick Stein offer a welcome splash of sunshine, but are hearty enough to warm you up on a chilly March evening

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118


●RECIPES | RICK STEIN

SEAFOOD LINGUINE Serves: 2 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 40 minutes 60ml olive or rapeseed oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed, no need to peel 12 medium raw prawns, peeled, shells and heads reserved 2 tbsps tomato paste 300ml water 350g linguine 60g squid rings and tentacles 16 mussels, in the shell, scrubbed ¼ tsp chilli flakes 2 handfuls cherry tomatoes, halved Handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped Sea salt and ground black pepper

1. Heat half the oil in a pan, add the garlic and prawn heads and shells and fry over a high heat for 5 minutes, turning them from time to time. Add the tomato paste and water, simmer with the lid on for 10 minutes, then use a stick blender to blitz the mixture. Pass through a sieve and reserve. 2. Cook the linguine in plenty of salted boiling water for 10 minutes or until al dente. Wipe out the pan then add the rest of the oil and fry the squid and prawns over a high heat for 2 minutes. Add the strained prawn and tomato stock, then the mussels, chilli flakes and cherry tomatoes. Bring to the boil with the lid on and boil rapidly for 4 minutes until the mussels have opened. (Discard any that don’t open.) 3. Remove the lid and if necessary reduce the liquor to a sauce consistency, then season with ½

teaspoon of salt and 10 turns of black pepper from a mill. Add the well-drained pasta along with the parsley and toss together well. Serve immediately. THE BEST CHICKEN PIE IN GREECE 1kg onions, peeled and chopped 30g butter 2 tbsps olive or rapeseed oil, plus extra for greasing and brushing 1 whole chicken (about 1.5 kg) 3 free range eggs, beaten 1½ tsp salt Freshly ground black pepper 6 sheets filo pastry

1. Put the onions, butter and oil into a large pan or stockpot with a lid, add the whole chicken and pour in enough water so the bird is almost submerged. Cover with the lid, bring the water up to the boil, then turn down to barely a simmer and poach the chicken for about 1½ hours. 2. When the chicken is cooked, remove from the pan and strain the cooking liquid into another pan, keeping the onions to return to the dish later. Boil the liquid hard to reduce to a tasty gelatinous stock. Allow the chicken to cool before stripping all the meat off the carcass, discarding the bones and skin. Put the chicken and the reserved onions into a large bowl and mix well. Add the eggs and chicken stock and season with the salt and some pepper. 3. Heat the oven to 230°C/Fan 210°C/Gas 8.Grease a round pie dish with oil. Line the dish with 3 sheets of filo, alternating direction each time and brushing each layer with a little oil. Add the chicken mixture and fold the overhanging edges in. Top with a further 3 layers of filo, again placed at different angles to one another. Fold in the overhanging edges to seal the pie and brush all over with more oil. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, reduce the heat to 200°C/ Fan 180°C/Gas 6, cut the pie into 6 or 8 wedges, then bake for a further 45 minutes. Allow to rest for 10–20 minutes, then serve, still warm.

Extracted from Rick Stein: From Venice To Istanbul (£25, BBC Books) Text © Rick Stein 2015. Photography © James Murphy 2015. 119


● RECIPES | EVERYDAY

Make it Tonight! Steak and chips is the ultimate ‘treat dinner’ – and this delicious recipe is ready to go in 30 minutes

STEAK & CHIPS WITH CELERIAC REMOULADE Serves: 2 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 30 minutes 350g frozen chips or fries 250g celeriac, peeled Juice of ½ lemon 2 tbsps mayonnaise 1 tbsp soured cream or crème fraîche 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsps chopped fresh chives

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250g Waitrose Hand-cut British Beef Bavette Steak, or similar 1 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 220ºC/Fan 180ºC/ Gas 7. Spread the chips on an oven tray and cook according to pack instructions, until golden. 2. Meanwhile, using a mandolin or the coarse grater attachment on your food processor, shred the celeriac. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the lemon juice. 3. Mix the mayonnaise, soured cream

or crème fraîche, mustard and chives together and season. Fold the mixture through the celeriac and set aside. 4. Heat a griddle pan until smoking. Brush the steaks with the oil and season. Cook on the griddle for 2 minutes each side, for rare, or 3 minutes for medium. Transfer the steak to a warm plate and rest for 5 minutes. Serve the steaks with the chips and celeriac remoulade, and extra Dijon mustard on the side. Recipe courtesy of Waitrose.com


Food Tourist

Great British Food uncovers the UK’s finest pubs, restaurants, hotels & foodie destinations for your eating pleasure

THIS MONTH: * Edinburgh* * Brighton * * Bermondsey * * Bath * * Glasgow* * Somerset *

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Out &About

Rain or shine, these fabulous hotels, restaurants and attractions are perfect for a foodie getaway

A Weekend Away HOTEL DU VIN, BRIGHTON

bedrooms has its own unique design as well as all the luxuries you could want – think supersoft Egyptian cotton linen, big fluffy towels, roll top baths and drenching monsoon showers.

And the food...

Why we like it?

Nestled in the quaint cobblestoned alleyways of The Lanes, practically a pebble’s throw from Brighton’s seafront, Hotel du Vin is an oasis of calm and laid-back luxury in the busy city. The hotel group are known for revamping historic buildings in stunning style, and the Brighton branch is no exception; the hotel (including its on-site bistro and pub) is assembled from a jumble of quirky gothic-style buildings that were, appropriately enough, first built by a wine merchant in 1695. As a result, each of the 49 122

There are plenty of tempting options for food and drink, starting with the beautiful vine-covered courtyard, where you can enjoy an alfresco breakfast, three course supper or a glass of wine all year round. The buzzy Bistro De Vin is styled up like a Parisian bistro and is a great spot for a romantic dinner, serving up hearty favourites like slow cooked belly of Gloucester Old Spot and 28 day dry-aged steaks. As you’d expect, wine is a huge focus here and the sommelier team are on hand to recommend the best drinks for your meal. Breakfast was a real highlight; guests help themselves to warm pastries, fresh fruit and delicious yogurts from The Collective, a fabulous dairy in Somerset, before choosing from the eclectic hot breakfast menu. Choices range from a classic fry up and boiled egg with soldiers, to cheese and bacon-filled crepes and brioche French toast. hotelduvin.com thecollectivedairy.com

Best of West Dust off your flat cap, wellies and gillet and embrace the culinary delights of the West Country by taking up a class at country skills and cookery school Vale House Kitchen. Located in Timsbury, near Bath, there are some fantastic courses on offer, including fishing, butchery, shooting, bread making and foraging classes amongst many others, all headed up by ex-River Cottage chef Tim Maddams. valehousekitchen.co.uk


● FOOD TOURIST | OUT & ABOUT

Great Glaswegian Grub

Glasgow boasts such an abundance of gastronomical highlights that it’s a tricky task deciding where to eat. So we welcome the news of a two week restaurant festival with open arms. The food showcase runs from 1st – 19th April and is an ideal opportunity to sample the flourishing dining scene with top restaurants offering specially priced menus, food tours, pop-ups, pairing nights and masterclasses with top chefs. glasgowrestaurantfestival.co.uk

IMAGE COURTESY OF OX AND FINCH, GLASGOW

RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH R E S TA U R A N T S T O R Y, L O N D O N

If there’s a downside to going to Restaurant Story for dinner, it’s that all future threecourse meals are going to pale in comparison. By the time we’d finished the menu, which lists 13 courses but in reality features more than 20, we’d experienced a full spectrum of tastes and textures, artfully presented by head chef Tom Sellers. From the candle made of beef dripping that slowly melts, leaving a pool of delicious fat to mop up with fresh sourdough, to the dessert of almond and dill, it’s soon apparent that this is a meal to remember. The meal begins with a flurry of snacks – delicious little bites bursting with flavour. The courses then start coming thick and fast; burnt onion with apple with a hot old tom gin jus, fallow deer with dandelion and the creamiest mashed potato with coal which, for us, was the best dish of the evening. We couldn’t help but watch the chefs at work – the kitchen is very small (the whole restaurant, in fact, is housed in what used to be a Victorian public toilet), and the call and response between everyone in there is fascinating to watch. restaurantstory.co.uk

Brew Something New

Reckon you could be a dab hand at brewing beer? Head down to The Queens Arms to craft your own bespoke ale with Gyle 59 brewery.

The course

Balancing malt and hops, understanding fermentation points and distinguishing pale ales from IPAs are just some of the skills you can learn during the new craft beer course at The Queens Arms in Somerset. Budding brewers join forces with Dorset brewery, Gyle 59, to learn about different malts, yeasts, hops and water to create your own collaborative recipe on the first day of the weekendlong course. The second day is spent brewing and bottling a bespoke batch. You’ll then be

sent six bottles of your own beer, which will also be on tap at the pub a few weeks after your brew day!

Eat and stay

The course also includes a two night stay in one of The Queens Arm’s elegant 5-star rooms, with dinner on the Friday and Saturday night, breakfast and a light lunch each day. The experience runs from 15th – 17th April and costs £800 for two people in a classic room or £830 for two in an executive room. thequeensarms.com 123


The Great Escape:

EDINBURGH

Scotland’s gorgeous capital barely needs any introduction; with cosy whisky bars, buzzing food markets and every type of restaurant you could imagine, Edinburgh is a world-class culinary destination

What to see in a day...

Start your day of exploration with a hearty Scottish breakfast. Edinburgh has countless independent caffs serving fantastic food, but our favourite has to be Roseleaf (roseleaf.co.uk), tucked away in the historic Port ‘o Leith. The breakfast menu at this busy pub/café knocked our socks off; think wild mushrooms sautéed in garlic butter served on homemade bread, smashed peas with goat’s cheese and poached eggs, or eggs Benedict served six ways. To take in all the city has to offer in one fell swoop, follow the Edinburgh Food Heritage Trail (ewht.org.uk) – maps are available from various tourist spots or to download at the address above. This self-guided tour is a great way of discovering the city’s food history and the 124

hidden nooks and crannies of its various districts. Highlights range from relics of food history gone by, that visitors would normally overlook (including a cannonball literally encased in the wall of an Old Town restaurant), to heritage buildings that have been given a modern use – such as the Georgian House (an elegantly restored town house that acts as a museum of 19th century high

society). The route also leads you yo The Gardener’s Cottage (thegardenerscottage.co), the former home of the royal gardener, now transformed into a fab modern Scottish bistro. Stop for a luxurious seafood lunch or early supper at Ondine (ondinerestaurant.co.uk) – it’s part of the heritage route, but also well worth a visit even if you’re not following it. Located in the heart of Old Town, the


● FOOD TOURIST | GREAT ESCAPE

Where to Stay

light and bright restaurant has panoramic windows that offer fantastic views over the city (great for people watching) and the menu makes magnificent use of Scotland’s bountiful fresh fish. Many of the tastiest dishes take inspiration from world flavours; including a saffronrich fish soup, Shetland mussels in a Asian broth and razor clams with chorizo and Sicilian lemons. However, for something truly decadent, try the roasted shellfish platter, piled high with butter-smothered lobster, langoustines and scallops.

What to see in a weekend...

DAY ONE You could easily spend a week exploring the various attractions and neighbourhoods of Edinburgh, but we’d recommend keeping it central if it’s your first time in the city. Using Waverley Bridge (adjacent to the main train station) as a starting point you can access the historic Old Town, with its labyrinth of cobbled streets and narrow alleyways, as well as the main shopping, theatre and cultural districts. You could scale the Scott Monument (a majestic sooty spire that’s probably the most famous building on the city’s skyline), or take a tour of Edinburgh Castle; sitting high upon an extinct 350 million years old volcano, it’s steeped in

history and offers an unbeatable view of Edinburgh and beyond. For lunch, head to Mother India’s Cafe (motherindia. co.uk), an Indian tapas-style eatery that’s always packed with locals. The food is fresh and absolutely packed with flavour, and the small plate concept is a great excuse to try lots of different things; highlights for us were the spiced baked haddock, keema dosa pancakes and chicken on the bone with spinach. For something more classically Scottish, try the Whiski Rooms (whiskirooms. co.uk), where you’ll find stalwarts like haggis, neeps and tatties and hot smoked salmon. Spend the rest of the afternoon browsing the chic indie boutiques on Victoria Street; alongside trendy fashion and beautiful homewares you’ll find plenty to tempt your taste buds, from the freshly carved hog roast rolls served at Oink (oinkhogroast.co.uk) to speciality cheeses at I.J Mellis (mellischeese.net) and all kinds of exciting spirits and liqueurs at Demijohn (demijohn.co.uk). In the evening, book a table at The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen (printingpressedinburgh.co.uk) for a lively night of exquisite steaks, people watching and strong cocktails. Trust us, the atmosphere is so great you’ll want to stay all evening! DAY TWO Did you know Edinburgh has a rich history of cookery teaching, dating back hundreds of years? Treat yourself to a class at one of

This luxurious boutique property is one of the newest additions to Edinburgh’s hotel scene, and the New Town location (just a short walk from the main theatre and shopping districts) makes it an ideal base for exploring. The Place is housed inside three Georgian townhouses and retains many of the original period features, though the light and spacious interior ensures the atmosphere is relaxed and informal – you’re guaranteed a jolly welcome. The quirky layout means there are lots of cosy nooks and crannies to explore, and all 47 rooms have their own individual style, all with uber comfy beds, stunning bathrooms and great gadgets. One of the hotel’s suites even boasts an amazing Caesar bed, which at 8ft wide by 7ft 3ins long is apparently the biggest bed in Edinburgh! For breakfast, guests can take their pick from the fantastic quality buffet or choose porridge, kippers or eggs Benedict from the al la carte menu. For the rest of the day, the restaurant and bar areas serve everything from bar snacks and late lunches to a great value set menu that’s available from 12pm to 10pm. yorkplaceedinburgh.co.uk the city’s finest. Situated right in the heart of Edinburgh, New Town Cookery School (entcs. co.uk) is ideally located for a day of sight-seeing before or after courses.We’d recommend one of the half-day Saturday workshops; guests arrive at 9.45 and learn how to cook an impressive three course dinner party menu – which they can then enjoy for lunch with a glass of wine before heading off to explore the city. For dinner eat ScottishFrench fusion at L’escargot Blanc (lescargotblanc.co.uk) in the West End. This charming bistro always has a buzzing atmosphere in typical Parisian style, however the dedication to sourcing fresh Scottish produce is brilliant to see. The delights on offer range from wild snails from the Isle of Barra, served piping hot with lashings of herby garlic butter,delicious pure breed Dexter and Highland Wagyu beef, as well as the most incredible fresh bread and butter. French staples like Bouillabaisse and Boeuf Bourguignon are cooked to perfection, however the stand-out dish for us was a hearty portion of slow-braised rabbit in a creamy mustard sauce. 125


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:26 Page 126

Enjoy the moment!

rootsandwingsorganic.com

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Wonders

●RECIPES | EVERYDAY COOKING

W e e k da y

n

n

Shake up your weekday cooking with these simple and delicious dishes. This month we take a look at some seriously special soups – great for lunch or a light supper

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COVER RECIPE! ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH BASIL OIL Serves: 6 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 1 hour 1kg ripe tomatoes, halved 2 red onions, peeled and sliced 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled 2 carrots, sliced Pinch of sugar 3 tbsps olive or rapeseed oil 900ml Vegetable Top & Tail Broth (see p.130) or quality chicken or vegetable stock 2-3 drops balsamic vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve: 4 tsps crème fraîche 4 tsps basil oil 4 sprigs basil Focaccia or sourdough bread, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5. 2. Place the tomatoes, cut-side up, in a roasting pan with the red onions, garlic and carrots. Sprinkle over the sugar and drizzle with oil. Season with a little salt and pepper. Roast for about 45–50 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and just starting to char around the edges. Check occasionally and turn the onions and carrots in the oil to prevent them sticking. 3. Remove the garlic cloves and squeeze out the garlic, discarding the skins. Place in a pan with the roasted vegetables and broth. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5–10 minutes. 4. Transfer the soup to a blender or food processor and blitz in batches until smooth – or use a stick blender, off the heat. Check the seasoning, add the balsamic vinegar and reheat the soup over a gentle heat. 5. Ladle the hot soup into bowls and swirl in the crème fraîche and basil oil. Top each bowl with a sprig of basil and serve with hunks of bread.

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“This vibrant green soup is packed with flavour and makes a superb spring lunch. Bulk it up with lots of crusty bread for a light supper”


● RECIPES | EVERYDAY COOKING

SPINACH SOUP WITH SLOWDRIED BABY PLUM TOMATOES Serves: 6 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 25 minutes For the soup: 2 tbsps olive or rapeseed oil 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 1 large potato, peeled and diced 1 litre Vegetable Top & Tail Broth, (see p.130) or quality vegetable stock 2 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves stripped 1 sprig fresh rosemary 200g frozen peas 1kg spinach leaves, chopped with any tough stalks removed Good pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Squeeze of lemon juice 4–5 tbsps reduced-fat crème fraîche (optional) Rosemary-infused oil, to drizzle (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C/130°C/Gas 2. To make the tomato garnish, mix together the oil, balsamic vinegar and herbs. Pour onto a baking sheet and add the tomatoes, turning them in the oil. Lay the tomatoes on the sheet, cut-side down, and season lightly with sea salt. 2. Cook in the preheated oven for at least 1 hour, checking them occasionally to ensure they don’t brown or burn. When cooked, they should be quite soft and starting to shrivel and wrinkle, with a concentrated sweet flavour. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. 3. Meanwhile, make the soup. Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the onion and potato over a low heat until tender. Add the broth and bring to the boil, then turn down the heat to a simmer, add the herbs and cook gently for 15–20 minutes. Stir in the peas and spinach and cook for 2–3 minutes until just tender but still a vibrant green. 4. Remove the sprig of rosemary, transfer the soup to a blender or food processor and blitz, in batches, until smooth – or use a stick blender off the heat. Return to the pan and season with nutmeg, lemon juice, salt and pepper. For a creamier consistency, stir in the crème fraîche. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve garnished with the slow-dried tomatoes and a drizzle of rosemary-infused oil.

For the slow-dried baby plum tomatoes: 2 tbsps fruity green olive oil Few drops of balsamic vinegar 1 sprig fresh rosemary 4 sprigs fresh thyme 12 baby plum tomatoes, halved Sea salt FRENCH ONION SOUP Serves: 6 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 25 minutes 2–3 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 1 knob butter 4 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2 tbsp plain flour 1.5 litres Classic Beef Bone Broth(see p.130), or quality beef stock 125ml dry white wine 1 bay leaf 1 small baguette 2 tsps Dijon mustard 125g Gruyère cheese, grated Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat the oil and butter in a deep heavy-based pan over a low heat. Add the onions and cook very gently for 30–40 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent

them sticking, until they are meltingly tender and sweet and have started to caramelize and turn golden brown. 2. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 2–3 minutes, then add a little of the boiling broth, stirring until smooth and well combined. 3. Stir in the remaining broth together with the wine and bay leaf, then partially cover the pan and simmer very gently for at least 40 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 4. Preheat the grill to high. Slice the baguette into diagonal rounds and lightly toast under the grill. Thinly spread each slice with mustard. Divide the soup between 6 heatproof bowls and float the toasted baguette slices, mustard-side up, on top. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and place under the hot grill for just long enough to melt the cheese. Serve immediately.

129


● RECIPES | EVERYDAY COOKING

THE BROTHS

Once you've made a batch of these wholesome broths you have a delicious base for making all kinds of flavourful dishes

CLASSIC BEEF BONE BROTH Makes: 1.2 litres Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 12-24 hours 1.5 kg beef bones, cut into 5 cm pieces 2 sticks celery, roughly chopped 2 medium carrots (parsnips or swede would also work well), roughly chopped 2 medium onions, roughly chopped 1 mixed bunch thyme, sage and marjoram, tied together with string 2.25 litres water 4 tbsps apple cider or red wine vinegar Ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5. Spread the chopped bones in a large roasting tray and transfer to the oven to cook for 45–50 minutes until well browned and sticking to the tray. Add a splash of water to the tray and stir to loosen the bones and remove any congealed juices. Transfer the bones to a large pan. 2. Place all the vegetables and herbs in the pan and pour over enough of the water to cover. Add the vinegar and a generous grinding of black pepper, then cover the pan and bring to the boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer and leave to cook, covered, for 12–24 hours, regularly topping up the water to ensure it is always covering the bones. 3. Cool the broth to room temperature, then strain through a piece of muslin into a large bowl. Use the broth immediately or portion it into freezerproof containers and store in the fridge for 5 days or the freezer for up to 5 months. VEGETABLE TOP & TAIL BROTH Makes: 1.2 litres Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: around 10 hours This recipe makes use of vegetable offcuts that you would either discard or compost; choose any 6–8 from the following, and use up to 2 herbs 130

SHOPPING BASKET

Stock up the store cupboard with these tasty time-savers

and one spice at a time 2 tbsps apple cider or wine vinegar VEG: onions, garlic and leeks, celery, endive, fennel, turnips, parsnips, swede, courgettes, sweet potatoes, butternut squash, French,runner or broad beans, beetroot, carrots, chard, kale or spinach HERBS: coriander leaves, parsley, bay leaves, sage, thyme, rosemary or fennel SPICES: ginger, turmeric root, star anise, cloves, cinnamon or nutmeg

1. Place all your ingredients (scrapings, shavings, peelings, tops and tails, less-than-perfect leaves, strong spines of chard, curly kale and spinach) into a large cauldron with 2.25 litres of water and set onto a moderate heat on the hob for several hours. 2. Check every hour to ensure that there is sufficient liquid and to stir the ingredients in the melting pot. Turn off the heat at night and leave covered, but do not refrigerate, as the flavours will develop more if the broth is left at room temperature. Strain the soup into another pot before ladling out your broth as needed. Recipes amended from broth [Nature’s cure-all for health and nutrition] by Vicki Edgson and Heather Thomas (£20, Jacqui Small). Photography by Lisa Linder

Wild At Heart Nettle Pesto, £4.75 wildatheartfoods.co.uk

The Condiment Company Hollandaise Sauce, £2.25 thecondimentco.co.uk

Kents Kitchen Spicy Korma Meal Kit, £2.50 amazon.co.uk

Byron Bay Chilli Co Green Jalapeno Sauce, £2.99 byronbaychilli.co.uk


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Kent’s Kitchen meal kits make an authentic, tasty dish in just 20 minutes. A quick and easy 1,2,3 step kit made with natural ingredients that creates a delicious meal for people who are short on time but love good food.

www.kentskitchen.co.uk 131


POTTS’

This Mother’s Day let Potts’ delicious and convenient sauces make treating mum to a home cooked dinner super easy. The Potts family have created ten classic cooking sauces to choose from, ranging from Great British favourites, such as fish pie sauce, to continental dishes that our nation has made its own, like stroganoff and bolognese. Available from farm shops, butchers and fishmongers nationwide or directly at pottspartnership.co.uk

CHOI TIME

MORNFLAKE

The beautiful teas from Choi Time have been awarded a total of 21 accolades at the Great Taste Awards. The range includes flowering bulbs, silver needle tea, rose buds and green tea. They make for an effortless detox, with customer feedback mentioning weight loss, lower cholesterol and a rise in anti-oxidant levels. Try the Thousand Year Red Flowers or Roses varieties for £19.90 from choitime.com

Mornflake is one of the few remaining family-owned, British cereal companies and the longest established oat miller in the UK. Its range of cereals are great for any time of day, although the Oatbran Granola Nuts and Seeds is perfect to get that much-needed energy boost in the morning. It tastes delicious with a dollop of Greek yoghurt and a drizzle of honey, or if you are feeling a bit peckish just dive in for a handful! £2.80 for 500g from Sainsbury’s

RULE BRITANNIA Check out the latest British products to hit the shelves PINKSTER

Premium gin Pinkster is made with fresh raspberries, which are grown near to the company’s Cambridge HQ. Deliciously dry, with a hint of fruit and an exceptionally smooth finish, it makes a refreshingly different gin and tonic when served with a sprig of mint. £35 from Ocado

T&G WOODWARE

Minimalist in style and charmingly traditional, this Loaf & Larder handled board is the perfect platform to serve your guests some freshly baked sourdough. Its leather tie really adds to the rustic appeal – it looks fantastic hanging in your kitchen. £19.99 from saltandpepper.co.uk 132


●RULE BRITANNIA

SNOWDONIA

KELLY’S OF CORNWALL

Where Cheddars are concerned the multi award-wining Little Black Bomber ® by Snowdonia Cheese Company ® is a modern classic, with a delicious intense taste and smooth creamy texture. Wrapped in black wax to create its now iconic finish. £4.50 from snowdoniacheese.co.uk

Ice cream parlours have been the backdrop to holiday memories for families at the seaside for generations. Kelly’s of Cornwall has captured these moments in four new retro ice cream flavours. The additions to the range include Lemon Curd Tart, Praline Caramel, Eton Mess and Chocolate Brownie Salted Caramel. The new flavours are available from selected supermarkets nationwide from 1st February

MINOR GOODS

Blue is definitely the colour at Minor Goods – we’re loving the new selvedge denim apron and bag, along with a consignment of indigo blue and off-white ceramics. The ceramic range is made from study stone-ware and includes a dinner plate, dessert plate, bowl, beaker, utensil pot and jug. Find out more at minorgoods.com

SALT AND PEPPER

Fancy adding a bit of character to your kitchen? This quirky and amusing sign is definitely capable of doing just that. It’s also perfect a great gift idea for any The Great British Bake Off lovers! £6.75 from saltandpepper.co.uk

BEE’S WRAP

The eco-friendly and organic Bee’s Wrap paper now comes in a funky geometric print. Wrap up your baked goods, cheese or a lunch time snack to seal in freshness. Each wrap is made from organic muslin infused with beeswax, jojoba oil and tree resin, which results in a divine smelling, malleable, water resist airtight paper. £15.95 per pack from thewisehouse.co.uk

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Choi Time Teas WINNER OF 21 GOLD GREAT TASTE AWARDS ‘Hailed’ The Dom Perignon of the Tea World - Sunday Times. 10% ONLINE DISCOUNT 'GBF16' choitime.com

PINKSTER AG R E E A B LY B R I T I S H G I N

Valid until 29.02.2016

A SMALL B ATCH, PREMIUM GIN PRODUCED WITH FRESH RASPBERRIES AT OUR C AMBRIDGE HQ. DELICIOUSLY DRY, WITH A HINT OF FRUIT AND AN EXCEPTIONALLY SMOOTH FINISH. WWW.PINKSTERGIN.COM @PINKSTERGIN #SPANKTHEMINT

www.choitime.com

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Off the

PAGE

1

2

4

5

Find inspiration with our round-up of the month's most tempting reads

3

1

More Home Comforts by James Martin (£20, Quadrille) The much-loved television chef has devised 100 new recipes for foolproof favourites he loves to cook at home. With speedy suppers like Pea and Parmesan Soup and family feasts such as Lamb Belly with Barbecue Sauce, James has all bases covered in this wonderfully eclectic book. If you have a bit of a sweet tooth, then you'll appreciate some of the more indulgent options, most notably the luxurious Dark and White Chocolate Cherry Brownies and a devilishly indulgent Sticky Toffee Roulade. Out 11th February

2

Deliciously Ella Every Day by Ella Woodward (£20, Yellow Kite) Expect seriously good smoothies and juices alongside slow-cooked comfort food in the latest addition to the Deliciously Ella catalogue. Devotees eagerly awaiting the release of Deliciously Ella Every Day will not be disappointed, Woodward has stayed true to her much adored style.

She champions cooking with natural, wholesome foods and helps readers include nourishing ingredients in their diets, however busy a lifestyle they lead. Out now

3

River Cottage Gluten Free by Naomi Devlin (£20, Bloomsbury) Whether you've got a gluten intolerance or you're aiming to reduce the wheat in your diet, this inspiring book will arm you with the tools to navigate mealtimes. Nutrition expert Naomi Devlin offers clear advice throughout, helping to identify alternative flours, methods of fermentation and delicious baking ideas. The beautiful photos will get you in the mood to create glorious gluten-free gems like Blinis with Creme Fraiche and Smoked Salmon, Leek and Bacon Quiche and a Blackberry Bakewell Tart. Out now

4

The Lunchbox Book (£9.99, DK) If you're constantly telling yourself to fix up more exciting lunches but

are unsure how to get started, this book is a godsend. Perfect for the time-poor, many recipes can be made in just a couple of simple steps the evening before, giving you the ultimate grab-and-go lunch for the following day. There are handy suggestions for turning leftovers into scrumptious snacks and weekly planners to help you shop wisely for tasty ingredients. Out 1st February

5

Garlic by Jenny Linford (£14.99, Ryland Peters & Small) This bulbous plant has been used in cooking for thousands of years, which is a testament to its flavour enhancing qualities. The fantastic recipes in this book demonstrate how to get the most out of garlic, with new ideas for dips, snacks, meat, poultry and fish, plus pastas and breads, too. With lovely photography throughout to inspire you to create something superb, there are also insightful essays on using garlic for health and how to grow a bounty of your own bulbs at home. Out now

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5 WAYS TO DISCOVER...

1 Tablet

You can now enjoy every issue of Great British Food on your tablet or mobile! Our digital edition includes everything featured in the print magazine and you'll be able to keep all your favourite recipes, features and interviews from past issues all in one handy place. To download this brilliant app for free, simply search for Great British Food in the app store on your Kindle, Ipad or Iphone. Then you'll be able to purchase the latest or any back issue for just ÂŁ2.99 each. That's ÂŁ1 saved on every hard copy!

2 Magazine

Pick up your hard copy of Great British Food in all major supermarkets and newsagents across the UK! It's the only UK mag 100% dedicated to the revival of British food and drink, bringing you delicious recipes perfect for winter, producer stories and product news.

4 Twitter

Get in touch on Twitter @BuyBritishFood! Ask our advice on a dish you're cooking, find out about all our giveaways and fill us in on your latest foodie adventures. We love to hear from you!

3 Website

Visit our website greatbritish foodmagazine.com where there's plenty more to see. You can also enter all our monthly competitions and giveaways and check out the latest free gift you get when buying a subscription!

5 Facebook

Like us on facebook.com/ GreatBritishFood and become part of our online community! You'll find even more seasonal recipe ideas, regional foodie news and chances to win in our giveaways.

139


Enter via our website greatbritishfoodmagazine.com/giveaways

The Big

Giveaway Win a tempting selection of gourmet goodies or a gastronomical getaway with our delicious competitions

WIN A CITY BREAK IN LEEDS, PACKED WITH A CHOICE SELECTION OF TASTY TREATS! Magical Leeds is offering one lucky GBF reader a weekend stay in Hilton Leeds City for two; including a cookery course at Chaophraya restaurant, free dinner at the city's Trinity Kitchen street food stalls and a beer tasting class at the Northern Monk Brewery. It's a one-off chance to experience the very best of the city's foodie delights! Hilton Leeds is ideally situated in the heart of the city, just a few moments' walk from the train station. The rooms all include complimentary wifi, and 32� plasma TV screens. Guests can also enjoy a gym, pool, sauna and steam room. Trinity Kitchen is a collection of street food vendors, all gathered together

Chaophraya Leeds has been called the best Thai restaurant in Leeds. Learn how to master the subtleties of the cuisine with expert chefs, before sitting down to enjoy the fruits of your labour! For more information go to visitleeds. co.uk

under the roof of the city's main shopping centre, Trinity Leeds. Use your winning voucher and take your pick of the treats on offer, from burgers to South Indian pakoras.

WORTH

ÂŁ1000

140


● COMPETITIONS

WIN A LUXURY GOURMET BREAK IN AYLESBURY! You and a guest could win an overnight stay at the magnificent Hartwell House Hotel & Spa, courtesy of Pride of Britain Hotels. You will stay in a Royal superior room, with a pre-dinner Dry Martini cocktail made with Aylesbury Duck Canadian vodka, followed by a 3-course menu inspired by Aylesbury Duck. Petit fours and coffee included.

Buckinghamshire. It was once home to the exiled King of France, Louis XVIII, and his court. The rooms are furnished with antiques and its elegant drawing and dining rooms provide the ideal setting to enjoy the delicious food and wines. This luxury hotel is a 45 minute drive from London Heathrow and 25 minutes from London Luton airport, and just an hour from central London.

This beautifully restored 18th-century stately home is set in 90 acres of parkland in the Vale of Aylesbury in

For more information go to prideofbritainhotels.com

WIN KITCHEN GADGETS WORTH £250! Spruce up your kitchen with a 6 litre one-touch pressure cooker and a 3-piece forged pan set from Tower Housewares! With over 100 years of manufacturing and design experience, British heritage brand Tower makes products to last. The pressure cooker prepares food in a third of normal time, preserving all the natural nutrients. Tower's pans are coated in unique cerastone material, which means you can cook with far less oil as well. Visit towerhousewares.co.uk for more details.

WIN THE ULTIMATE RHS WILEY PACKAGE! RHS Wisley has devised the perfect day out for one lucky reader, as well as a year's free gift membership to the organisation. Enter for the chance to win entry to the prized Wisley gardens for four people, followed by lunch in the garden's restaurant. And there's a £50 voucher for the plant or gift shop as well! The year-long membership includes free access to over 150 gardens in the UK, as well as a monthly magazine. Go to rhs.org.uk for more details.

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• Classifieds MARCH 16_GBF classifieds 14/01/2016 09:44 Page 142

Great British Market Town End Farm Shop & Tearoom with views of Malham Cove, Farm Butchery & Charcuterie, Home of The Yorkshire Chorizo, Monthly Pork Butchery, Curing & Charcuterie Courses.

Original, Traditional Cakes, Puddings and Dietary Specialities

Town End Farm Shop, Airton, Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 4BE Jenkins & Hustwit Ltd 3b Laurel Way, Bishop Auckland, County Durham DL14 7NF

Tel: 01388 605005 E-mail: cakes@jenkinsandhustwit.com

T: 01729-830902 @TownEndAirton www.townendfarmshop.co.uk

www.jenkinsandhustwit.com

CURE IT. EAT IT. LOVE IT. ONLY

‘Make Your Own Bacon’ Kit spicelydoesit.com great foodie gifts 144

£5.25

To advertise in

GREAT BRITISH FOOD please call – Owen on 01206 505939 or Nathan on 01206 505424


*

IN THE APRIL ISSUE OF

Bright & Beautiful 101 FRESH NEW IDEAS FOR EASTER

James Martin's

HOME COOKING

Out 4th WAITROSE

March

HEMSLEY & HEMSLEY'S

SPING SUPPERS

FUN ON THE FARM WITH

Jimmy Doherty

*BRITAIN’S BEST CHOCOLATE MAKERS*CHESHIRE FOOD *MOTHER'S DAY BAKES*WELSH WILD GARLIC 143


• GBF ESCAPES MARCH 16_GBF ESCAPES 15/01/2016 08:44 Page 144

GREAT BRITISH ESCAPES

1 Quay Point, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 4AL T: 01394 389 189 152 High Street, Aldeburgh, Suffolk IP15 5AQ T: 01728 454 724 info@suffolkcottageholidays.com

GBF presents a fabulous selection of retreats and getaways – perfect for a foodie break

01394 389189

‘‘

‘‘

A unique selection of high quality holiday cottages situated on the East Kent Coastline, one of Britain's most fashionable places to stay.

Whether you are planning a romantic escape, a family holiday or anything in between, Keepers Cottages will always put you first.

www.keeperscottages.co.uk

t: 01304 370939

e: enquiries@keeperscottages.co.uk

NEW 2016 BROCHU RE AVAILABL E Come and discover what Scotland has to offer and escape with Wilderness Cottages. Quality self-catering properties throughout Scotland from rustic appeal to 5 star luxury, countryside to seashore. Whatever your pastime come and explore Scotland. Short Breaks Available. Pets Welcome. tel: 01463 719219

www.wildernesscottages.co.uk 144


GBF MARCH 16 master_GBF 15/01/2016 13:28 Page 145

Whether you are looking for a restaurant serving the finest cuisine for dinner, a café/bar for lunch with friends, or a hotel/B&B for a relaxing break, you can’t go far wrong in considering any of the following that are highly recommended by Les Routiers. Enjoy great atmospheres, warm and friendly hospitality, the finest cuisine and best quality drinks within our individual yet unique establishments throughout the UK.

BED & BREAKFAST OF THE YEAR 2016

WEDDING VENUE OF THE YEAR 2016

The Fuzzy Duck – Armscote, Stratford Upon Avon

White Hart Royal Hotel – Moreton-in-Marsh, Gloucestershire

Nestled in the rolling folds of the Cotswold countryside, close to Stratford-upon-Avon, is The Fuzzy Duck an 18th century coaching inn.

This beautiful Grade II listed building oozes charm and warmth and celebrates four centuries of the hotel’s evolution.

PUB OF THE YEAR 2016

INN OF THE YEAR 2016

The Forest at Feckenham – Redditch, Worcestershire

The Railway Inn – Honiton, Devon

The Forest at Feckenham offers quality food, good value for money, only using the best ingredients they can source and all of their dishes are prepared by their chefs on the premises.

Modern, country pub with en-suite rooms serving modern European food, plus bakery classes.

CAFÉ OF THE YEAR 2016

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR 2016

Gran Café – Manchester

Chez Vous – Warlingham, Surrey

A different way to enjoy the San Carlo Group experience offering Breakfast, Brunch, Lunch and Afternoon Tea.

The fabulous Chez Vous Restaurant is situated in Warlingham Village, Surrey with a French Heritage and strong British roots.

CONFERENCE CENTRE OF THE YEAR 2016

VENUE OF THE YEAR 2016

The Mandolay – Guildford, Surrey

Ye Olde Punchbowl – Bridgnorth, Shropshire

Independently owned, The Mandolay Hotel couples outstanding service with first class facilities, 72 comfortable bedrooms and exceptional meeting facilities making them the obvious choice for business visitors.

GUEST HOUSE OF THE YEAR 2016

The Mowbray – Eastbourne An award winning and highly rated contemporary 4* guest accommodation, The Mowbray was once a townhouse which was converted 65 years ago into a 13 bedroom guest house.

Ye Olde Punchbowl Inn is one of the Nostalgia Inns family-run Freehouses where customers can enjoy a relaxing atmosphere with excellent food and great beer.

NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR 2016

Don Giovanni – Oxford Street, Manchester Don Giovanni was established in 1984 and celebrates over 30 years as Manchester’s oldest and most trusted authentic Italian restaurant.

HOTEL OF THE YEAR 2016

Camden Arms Hotel – Pembury, Tunbridge Family run business, sitting majestically on the northern side of the village green. The Camden Arms Hotel is an impressive building. It has been at the heart of the village life for about 200 years.

For more information on the above establishments and to view many more places to wine, dine and stay throughout the UK and Ireland, visit the Les Routiers website at www.routiers.co.uk or call us on 0845 050 1189. We expect the best so you receive the best.


●LAST WORDS | ADAM HANDLING

LOVES

IN THE KITCHEN WITH...

Adam Handling

HATES

The Scottish Chef of the Year 2015 reveals his foodie loves and hates

*It'sCauliflower a vegetable that often receives quite bad

*Mundanity People who know me often notice I can

press, but I feel it's misunderstood. With a little creativity it's a delicious element to any type of meal, especially as the main event on a plate. Burnt cauliflower might sound a little unusual but it's actually a great way to create real depth of flavour.

get bored pretty easily, so food that tastes and feels the same from the first bite until the last will never keep me entertained. I try to ensure my diners avoid this by devising dishes with exciting textures, temperatures and tastes.

Personal Cooking *Since starting my career I've developed in many

different ways, but I think the most profound moment was the realisation that attaching a story or philosophy to food makes it more exciting to eat. I've started to create a more personal tasting menu at my restaurant, Adam Handling at Caxton. Expect to see at least one embarrassing photo of me as a child if you come and try the menu!

*It'sChocolate often

deemed a guilty pleasure but it's probably one I don't actually feel that riddled with guilt about! I love combining berries with chocolate in my cooking, but if I'm looking to buy myself a treat it has to come from William Curley's shop. He's an incredible chocolatier and his sea salt caramel bar is my absolute favourite.

*Venison Liver

It's not that I have an issue with liver in general – in fact I serve a frozen chicken liver parfait which is delicious – but venison is a whole different story. It's got such a powerful flavour and although I do like strong tastes, I just cannot handle this one!

Coffee *Everybody seems to be

obsessed with coffee apart from me – it's everywhere you look! I think it's way too bitter and it just smells really bad, to my nose anyway.

Flavours *I'mAsian lucky enough to have travelled lots, despite

only being 27. I've mostly explored Asia, which has prompted me to really consider how Asian flavours can work with British produce. My menus often reflect this – I try to emulate the brilliant balance of umami, sweetness and sourness of Asian dishes.

Crockery

I honestly believe that we eat with our eyes so I always prioritise great crockery. I spend lots of my time searching for exactly the right plates to complement my cooking. If I serve food on a boring plate, I'll always feel disappointed.

*Off-key Flavours

Olive Oil *Cooking with the best ingredients is always my top

I do admittedly have a bit of a sweet tooth, however I have my limits and dishes that rely on sweetness alone are just not for me. It's all about striking the right balance of flavours!

priority. My passion for olive oil has gone to new levels though, as I've recently developed and released my own range called Olivia. It's sourced from my partner's family's award-wining winery and oil mill in Cordoba in Spain. 146

*Boring

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LOUISE ABBOTT


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