Rural Pleasures T
he women are hardy, with wrinkles that betray their
model European market,” guarantees Rosa with pride
daily toil. They get up early when everyone else is
stamped across her face. The tall ceilings and large
still asleep to set up their fruit, vegetable and fish
floor space echo to the sound of the vendors’ cries and
stalls. And the same holds true for Rosa Gomes, one
customers’ bargaining. If nothing else, the mixture of
of the oldest vendors at one of Lisbon’s most popular
colours on the lined up fruit and vegetable stalls is a
markets, the Mercado de Alvalade Norte.
sight for sore eyes. And the smells mix into a harmoni-
Rosa took the risky plunge into the “fruit and veg” trade
ous whole that impels you towards the fresh produce.
at 23. At a time when few people yet lived in Alvalade.
The supermarkets have no answer to the service pro-
“Life was hard. I used to make three trips on foot with
vided by the vendors. Patiently, they explain to ‘unedu-
the fruit on my head because there was no transport,”
cated’ city dwellers what each vegetable is and how
she recalls. In that same year, her son was born, who
best to prepare them. The lack of pretty labels with
was often left home alone because of his mother’s
information about where they were grown, number of
unusual working hours. Later, and after saving a few
calories and suchlike forces it upon them. And, like in
pennies, Rosa bought a motorbike. And, sat amid the
days of old, they still hand out free parsley and corian-
greens, little Vítor started to come to the market with
der to customers.
his mum. That was 33 years ago. The little boy grew up,
But it is not just fresh produce that is sold at the mar-
studied accounting and business, but never turned his
ket. Lining the walls of the market are small shops
back on the family business. The two of them still work
selling a little bit of everything. Many belong to im-
together at the market to this today.
migrants who saw a chance to earn a living. Clothes,
Their greatest bêtes noires are the big supermar-
bags, shopping trolleys, flowers and even bed linen,
kets. Few young people are interested in buying fresh
nothing seems to be missing. There are endless stacks
fish, fruit and vegetables first thing in the morning.
of objects between these narrow walls, which seem to
“Business is terrible. Only older people come here;
have room for everything.
the youngsters wouldn’t know how to make a bowl of
Free of glamour or style, or the touch of an interior ar-
soup!” remarks Vítor.
chitect, this manages to be one of the most satisfying
Nevertheless, if you visit the market first thing, you are
and appealing places in the city. Because it is genuine
struck by the commotion. This is one of the biggest and
and real. Because it transports the most urbanised of
most important markets in the city. “It’s considered a
urbanites into the spontaneity of rural life. •
8 · roma & alvalade con vida