Jardim da Estrela >>> Estrela pode ser assustador, não pelo perigo, que hoje está bastante controlado, mas pelo silêncio, e pelas sombras das enormes árvores seculares que ganham formas de personagens gigantes, como nos contos infantis. Por isso se entrar no jardim da Estrela, percorra o passeio central de um lado ao outro e encha-se de vida e alegria, mas não deixe de conhecer o outro lado do jardim. Melhor mesmo será voltar ao ponto de partida, virar as costas à Basílica e subir pelo caminho mais à esquerda, vai passar entre dois lagos e por várias estátuas. Quando voltar a descer e cru-
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zar o portão norte do jardim, aproveite para beber água no bebedouro que se encontra logo aí, continue pelo mesmo caminho lateral, vai voltar a subir e se conseguir, suba mesmo ao miradouro de pedra. Daí terá uma visão completa dos lagos, das estátuas, do coreto, e da própria cidade. Quando voltar a descer ou antes de sair, já de frende para a Basílica, escolha a saída do portão esquerdo, sente-se confortavelmente numa cadeira e observe o magnífico tronco com galhos escorridos do choupo descomunal que tem à sua frente. Olhe-o como o melhor quadro do museu, ou a estrela deste jardim.•
ecause of its location at one of the high-
the open-air café, indoor cafés and weekend antique
est points of the city and in front of the
and handicraft fairs.
Basilica in Largo da Estrela, the park has
But there’s also the “other side of the park”, that side
been known ever since its construction in
which you enter more cautiously, as if braving a wild
the mid-19th century as Jardim da Estrela.
forest. Despite their proximity to the traffic and pulse of
The park separates the districts of Rato and Estrela
the city, it is the far ends which are the park’s mysteri-
and is crossed daily by thousands of people who divide
ous side. Early in the morning you can smell the damp
their lives between the two areas of the city, above all
earth and the leaves trampled into the ground; at night,
the pupils of Pedro Nunes, the secondary school right
visiting the far corners of the park can be a little scary,
outside the park’s northern entrance.
not because of any danger, that today is well control-
The park, as a result, is always lively. It has known
led, but because of the silence and the shadows of the
more and less rowdy times, but it has always had a very
huge old trees that take on the forms of giant charac-
distinct life of its own, that of a park divided between
ters from children’s stories.
the turmoil of daily life and the magic of a small forest.
So when you enter, follow the central path from one side
Because within these five verdant hectares there are
to the other and enjoy the life and joy, but remember the
two distinctly different realities and two different parks.
other side of the park as well. Ideally, return to where
The first is the central path which crosss the length of
you came in, turn your back to the Basilica and take the
the park and along which most of its attractions are
path furthest to the left, passing between two ponds and
arranged: the main pond with its peacocks, swans and
various statues. When you start descending again and
Egyptian ducks; the bandstand, which used to belong
come to the park’s northern gate, stop for water at the
to the Passeio Público (Public Promenade) in Avenida
fountain, continue along the same side path and you’ll
da Liberdade and which today, among other things, is
start climbing again and, if you can, climb all the way up
used to stage jazz concerts on fine summer evenings;
to the stone viewing point. From there you can see all
the recently renovated children’s playground where on
the ponds, statues, bandstand and even the city. When
sunny weekend mornings children queue to slide down
you come back down again, or before leaving, and while
the “lion”, which may be a tribute to the old “lion of
facing the Basílica, exit by the left gate, sit down and
Estrela”, a real lion brought from Africa and given to
observe the magnificent trunk and flowing branches of
the park by the explorer Paiva Raposo shortly after it
the huge poplar before you. Regard it as the museum’s
opened and its most sensational attraction ever; and
masterpiece, or the star of this park. •
8 · Campo de ourique & estrela con vida