of high society. A bandstand with curious lyre-shaped
a slide, a small carousel and some tricycles” for the
capitals was erected to provide well-dressed urban-
hundred or so children in the area.
ites with music. Metal seats could be rented to watch
Over time, everything changed and a lot disappeared
countless shows by actors and “divettes”. On the upper
- bandstands, kiosks and artistic children’s play-
level, a lovely and romantic kiosk was installed, with
grounds. But, in this place with a poet’s name, statue
tables sheltered under a broad hexagonal wrought iron
of a journalist and nickname of a saint (António Nobre
awning, that served typical Lisbon-style refreshments
is its official name as a garden; the statue erected in
– red currants and syrupy drinks (capilés, orchatas and
1904 pays homage to Eduardo Coelho, the founder of
carapinhadas). And, on the lower level, an “Eden Con-
the newspaper Diário de Notícias; and the nickname,
cert” was even put on, featuring theatrical and musical
by which everyone knows it, was borrowed from the
renditions. In 1884, the whole garden filled with curious
facing convent), nothing has changed for some time. In
and fascinated locals to witness the French acrobat
their unforgettable guide to Portugal, the writers Raúl
Henry Beudet lift off into the city’s skies from the cas-
Brandão and Raúl Proença noted: “But it is at nightfall
tle in a hot air balloon. There are countless engravings,
that the view … dazzles. One little window somewhere
photographs and postcards that testify to this glorious
suddenly burns in a golden light, as if unexpectedly
era and, yes, in all of them you can make out the many
illuminated. Then another lights up, and then yet an-
leafy trees.
other; and within a moment, in front of us, all the win-
In the 20th century, the lower level discovered a new
dows are alight. The whole of Lisbon is ablaze, and the
and younger audience. In 1933, Fernanda de Castro,
colour transmutes, the windows in the blood-red pomp
a writer married to António Ferro, founded the first
of the setting sun are fire and purple… Then, one after
of many children’s playgrounds on this spot. Ask-
the other, the windows go out, as if puffed out one-
ing money from Ricardo Espírito Santo and begging
by-one. But up at the top one little window still burns
plans from his architect friend Jorge Segurado for a
alone, like a spark in the remains of the flaming fire
wooden structure, he invited the artist Tom to design
that for a few moments consumed Lisbon, making it a
the miniature furniture and the painter Sarah Affonso
heavenly picture.” The view is, indeed, still exactly the
to decorate the main room. The latter having recently
same. And the continued rapture guaranteed, making
begun an affair with the genial Almada Negreiros, the
the Jardim de São Pedro de Alcântara one of the most
two of them illustrated the walls with designs inspired
extraordinary places in the entire city, albeit only more
by children’s stories. Outside, there are now “swings,
or less green.
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bairro alto & príncipe real con vida · 17