Memphis Magazine, April 2017

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Memphis • THE CITY MAGAZINE • W W W.MEMPHISMAGAZINE.COM

REDBIRDS | DA VINCI’S MACHINES | BHAN THAI | HALLIBURTON | SWEET GRASS

THE CITY MAGAZINE

VOL XLII NO 1 | A P R I L 2 01 7

Re m e m b e r i n g

USA $4.99

THE BUDDING SUPERSTAR’S DEATH IN THIS CITY 20 YEARS AGO ROCK ED T HE N AT ION. HE WA S 30. T HIS IS HIS MEMPHIS S T ORY.

0 4

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ALLEN EDMONDS AMERICAN THREADS ANN TAYLOR ANTHROPOLOGIE APPLE STORE AT&T BANANA REPUBLIC BRIGHTON BROOKS BROTHERS CHICO’S FRANCESCA’S FREE PEOPLE GRIMALDI’S PIZZERIA GYMBOREE INDIGO J.CREW J. JILL JANIE AND JACK KENDRA SCOTT LILY RAIN

STYLE

LOFT LUCKY BRAND JEANS MADEWELL MARMI SHOES MICHAEL KORS

I N STO R E

MONSOON CHILDREN ORIGINS PAPER SOURCE SLEEP NUMBER SOFT SURROUNDINGS SOMA SEPHORA STONEY RIVER TALBOTS TEAVANA VERA BRADLEY VOM FASS VICTORIA’S SECRET WHITE HOUSE | BLACK MARKET

Coming Soon SUR LA TABLE

T H I S MONT H AT

APRIL 1ST PAWS FOR A CAUSE Pet Adoption Event

APRIL 3RD JOSEPHINE CIRCLE Fashion Show

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APRIL 20 – 22 MOONLIGHT MADNESS Sidewalk Sale

901.753.4484

3/20/17 12:04 PM


SMALL MEETINGS. BIG IMPACT. Here’s what our Clients are saying about The Westin Memphis Beale Street: We’ve had this meeting at the Westin Memphis Beale Street 3 years in a row. Each year has been great, but this year was even better!!! Kudos to the staff!!! - Steve F. What’s not to Love? Location to FedEx Forum - Team was comfortable - Food was great - Service was terrific.- Jay D We always receive the best customer service from the Westin! - Mark G. I had high expectations, but I was still really impressed. AV was set up early and ran well, the food was delicious and the service was great, not disruptive to the speaker or presentation in the least. Hospitality is what Westin does best, and we really felt taken care of from the moment we walked in, to the minute we left. Staff was friendly and helpful, parking and valet was convenient, the entire event seemed very turn-key, leaving our team not having much to do beyond enjoy the event. Shaina G. Everyone was professional and handled everything beautifully. Great work! - Jessica G.

Contact our Professional Sales and Events Team to help plan your next event! 901-334-5920 • westin.com/bealestreet

The Westin Memphis Beale Street 170 Lt. George W. Lee Avenue, Memphis, TN 38103

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Built to be driven. Beautiful to behold. The 2017 C-Class Sedan. Mercedes-Benz engineers have done it again — creating a vehicle as breathtaking to look at as it is to drive. Its quiet, spacious interior is complemented by an aggressively sculpted exterior. Its assertive style is furthered by a powerful turbo-4 engine working in tandem with the DYNAMIC SELECT drive program, which allows the driver to transform the car’s characteristics with the flip of a switch. Sensual, seductive, scintillating, and safe — it’s a 2017 IIHS Top Safety Pick and a winner of a NHTSA 5-Star Overall Safety Rating — the C-Class Sedan is something you must see and drive for yourself. MBUSA.com/C-Class

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Mercedes-Benz of Memphis 5389 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 345-6211 www.mbofmemphis.com

2017 C 300 Sport Sedan in Iridium Silver metallic paint shown with optional equipment. *Stated MSRP excludes all options, taxes, title, registration, transportation charge and dealer prep. Options, model availability and actual dealer price may vary. See dealer for details. Government 5-Star Safety Ratings are part of the U.S. Department of Transportation’s New Car Assessment Program (www.SaferCar.gov). ©2017 Authorized Mercedes-Benz Dealers For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.

HEADLINE: 26 pt. • BODY COPY: 9.5 pt

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200 Varick St. New York, NY 10014 : Phone 212-805-7500

3/15/17 11:42 AM


MEMPHIS FUNERAL HOME The Most Trusted Name In Memphis. Since 1931.

A gathering of family and friends will always be the cornerstone of a Celebration of Life. Memphis Funeral Home offers its Life Remembrance Center as the perfect choice for these gatherings. Unique? Indeed. The only one of its kind in the Mid-South. 5599 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN 38119 • 3700 North Germantown Road, Memphis, TN 38133 (901) 725-0100

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VOL XLII NO 1 | APRIL 2017

REDBIRDS | DA VINCI | DIXON | BHAN THAI | HALLIBURTON |SWEET GRASS

THE CITY MAGAZINE

24

31

36

VOL XLII NO 1 | A P R I L 2 01 7

Re m e m b e r i n g

52 USA $4.99

THE BUDDING SUPERSTAR’S DEATH IN THIS CITY 20 YEARS AGO ROCK ED T HE N AT ION. HE WA S 30. T HIS IS HIS MEMPHIS S T ORY.

DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 10, 2017

(= 9

on the cover: Jeff Buckley PHOTOGRAPH BY

EBET ROBERTS / GETT Y IMAGES

Up Front 10 12 14 16 18 20

letters to the editor in the beginning spotlight fine print city journal out and about

40

46

Features

24 city flashbacks Witness #43

She was working at the Lorraine Motel on April 4, 1968. Where did she go?. ~ by henry nelson

31 Richard Halliburton: The Forgotten Myth

A brief, endless journey on the road to romance. ~ by guy m. townsend

36 Scent and Symbolism

The Dixon Gallery and Gardens teams with a Japanese museum to present an exhibition that explores the world of fragrance in art and nature.

~ by anne cunningham o’neill

40 Getting It Together!

Spring is here — time to declutter, organize, and de-stress. ~ by shara clark

46 Fine Feathered Friends

88 Memphis (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $15 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 © 2017. Telephone: 901-521-9000. For subscription info, please call 901-521-9000. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

As the Memphis Redbirds glide into their 20th season, a look at the hits — and the misses — and what’s to come. ~ by frank murtaugh

52 A Meeting of Mythologies

Singer Jeff Buckley was a budding superstar when he died 20 years ago. This is his Memphis story. ~ by danielle costello

61 road trip

Man of the Future The prophetic genius of Leonard da Vinci is on display in Union City. ~ by chris mccoy

61

Columns

68 retirement living

Making the Right Moves Professionals can take the work — and worry — out of moving to a new home.

~ by anne cunningham o’neill

82 ask vance

Woodmen of the World Our trivia expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. ~ by vance lauderdale

84 garden variety Digging In

Meet Miss Huff and Max, available at local plant sales offering the exotic and the unusual.

~ by christine arpe gang

86 dining out

Sweet and Savory Celebrate milestones, revisit favorite dishes, and discover traditional Thai cuisine at Midtown’s Bhan Thai. ~ by amy lawrence

88 city dining

Tidbits: Oyster Bar at Sweet Grass; plus the city’s most extensive dining listings.

96 last stand

Mission Finally Accomplished Sometimes technology can be balked by a bolt. ~ by marilyn sadler

APRIL 20 17 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • 7

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BONUS STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE SINCE 1950

In This Issue What’s Haute

Central BBQ was voted “Best BBQ Ribs, Sandwich & Food Truck” in Memphis magazine’s 2017 restaurant poll. Visit Central BBQ for competitionstyle ribs and BBQ. 4375 Summer Ave., 901.767.4672; 2249 Central Ave., 901.272.9377; 147 Butler Ave., 901.672.7760.

Unique, handcrafted and custom rugs. Serving the greater Memphis community, Taghavi Oriental Rugs offers hand-cleaning, restoration, and sales, both new and antique. 3554 Park Ave; 901.327.5033; www.taghavirugs.com.

Now open on Saturdays! Shop for Easter and WE Consign our Annual Antiques Sale! Open MondayFriday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. The Woman’s Exchange; 88 Racine Street, Memphis, TN 38111; 901.327.5681; womans-exchange.com.

VSA Designs exclusively in Germantown at More Than Words. Shown: San Benito Magdelana necklace handcrafted in San Miguel de Allende Mexico. $268. 2123 West St.; 901.755.4388; www.morethanwords.com.

See local artist Stephen Hudson’s wall of new works Make a statement with this ring from the Yellow Fire displayed at 1910 Frameworks. Great prices on Collection set with a center row of yellow diamonds art as well as framing. Family owned and operated accented with a white diamond border. The collection for over 39 years. 2029 Union Ave.; 901.274.1910; also includes matching bangle and circle pendant. 1910frameworks.com. Jewelers’ Choice, Inc.; 5100 Wheelis Drive #211; 901.763.0195; 800.264.4146; jewelerschoiceinc.com.

The Art of Dining in Memphis 3 is now available at Monogram for graduation or Mother’s Day. Corkcicles available in 23 colors of Canteens and the Lucky Duck Gift shop located in the Peabody Tumblers. Ménage Fine Stationery & Gifts; Hotel. joysartofdining.com. 430 Perkins Extended; 901.683.6809.

W H AT'S H AU T E page 29 The area’s leading retailers showcase their spring merchandise.

Altrezza Salon has the solution to Hair Loss. Male- or Female-Pattern & Medical Hair Loss. Call today for your free analysis. Don’t suffer through hair loss alone. 5736 Stage Road, Bartlett. 901.384.1680. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SEC TION

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FA I T H A ND WORSHIP GUIDE

Holiday Worship Guide The families of Second Presby terian Church invite you to join us this Christmas

EASTER

EASTER

A P R I L 1 6 2 01 7

SATUR DAY, APR IL 15 Easter Egg Hunt 10:00 a.m. A family event for children in third grade and under

pages 58-60 Houses of worship throughout the Memphis area are featured.

SUNDAY, APRIL 16 Sunrise Service 6:30 a.m. Memphis Botanic Garden

S U N D AY

Easter Worship

8AM Community-wide Easter Service on the lawn of the Nat’l Civil Rights Museum 9:30-10AM A prayer walk for our city to Clayborn Temple 10-10:30AM Coffee & donuts at Clayborn Temple 10:30AM Easter Worship Service at Clayborn Temple

Memphis Magazine’s

FOR MORE DETAILS DOWNTOWNCHURCH.COM

THE 2017

FACE

Join us Easter weekend for powerful worship:

Saturday, April 15 5:30 & 7:30 pm

ORIENTAL RUGS

Easter Sunday, April 16 8:00, 10:00 am & Noon

*May be crowded Activities for infants-Kindergarten available at all services. *Activities for Special Needs kids and adults available at 5:30 pm & 10 am services.

@Hope4Memphis HOPECHURCHMEMPHIS.COM SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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Coming in June

Master Weaver Ali Taghavi Restoring a antique Persian Farahan rug.

T OP DOC T ORS

MEMPHIS TOP DOCTORS FOR 2016 Castle Connolly Medical Ltd. is a healthcare research and information company founded in 1991 by a former medical college board chairman and president to help guide consumers to America’s top doctors and top hospitals. Castle Connolly’s established nomination survey, research, screening, and selection process, under the direction of an MD, involves many hundreds of thousands of physicians as well as academic medical centers, specialty hospitals, and regional and community hospitals, all across the nation. Castle Connolly’s physician-led team of researchers follows a rigorous screening process to select top doctors on both the national and regional levels. Its online nominations process — located at www.castleconnolly.com/nominations — is open to all licensed physicians in America who are able to nominate physicians in any medical specialty and in any part of the country, as well as indicate whether the nominated physicians is, in their opinion, among the best in their region in their medical specialty or among the best in the nation in their medical specialty. Careful screening of doctors’ educational and professional experience is essential before final selection is made among those physicians most highly regarded by their peers. The result: We identify the top doctors in America and provide you, the consumer, with detailed information about their education, training, and special expertise in our paperback guides, national and regional magazine “Top Doctors” features, and online directories. Doctors do not and cannot pay to be selected and profiled as Castle Connolly Top Doctors. Physicians selected for inclusion in this magazine’s “Top Doctors” feature may also appear as Regional Top Doctors online at www.castleconnolly.com, or in a Castle Connolly Top Doctors® guide, such as America’s Top Doctors® or America’s Top Doctors® for Cancer.

3554 Park Avenue, Memphis, TN • (901) 327-5033 • taghavirugs.com

“We want women to know that

W

hen Memphis magazine presented its first Top Docs issue in 1996, the world of healthcare was very different than it is today. For one thing, few patients (if any) searched for a doctor “online.” If

technology at our fingertips has undergone a transformation — it’s actually undergone several — imagine what it’s done for medical research and the treatment of human ailments, large and small. How a “Top Doc”is defined today uses different criteria than what was utilized two decades ago. That said, you’ll find a few esteemed physicians on this year’s list who also appeared in that 1996 issue. We profiled four of them here, each an example of sustained and adaptive excellence in their specialty. ALLERGY & IMMUNOLOGY

JOSEPH S. FAHHOUM, MD

Allergy & Asthma Specialists of Memphis 2006 Exeter Rd., Germantown, TN 38138 901-202-4100 Asthma & Allergy

GREGORY A. HANISSIAN, MD Baptist Memorial Hospital - Memphis Hanissian Allergy 2101 Merchants Row, Suite 3 Germantown, TN 38138 901-751-9696 Asthma & Allergy, Immune Deficiency

D. BETTY LEW, MD

Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital UT Le Bonheur Pediatric Specialists 51 N. Dunlap St., Suite 400, Memphis, TN 38105 901-866-8816 Pediatric Allergy & Immunology, Immune Deficiency

PHILLIP L. LIEBERMAN, MD Baptist Memorial Hospital - Memphis Allergy & Asthma Care 7205 Wolf River Blvd., Suite 200 Germantown, TN 38138 901-757-6100 Asthma & Allergy, Rhinitis, Anaphylaxis

CHRISTIE F. MICHAEL, MD

Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital UT Le Bonheur Pediatric Specialists 51 N. Dunlap St., Suite 400, Memphis, TN 38105 901-866-8816 Asthma & Allergy, Autoimmune Disease

CARDIAC ELECTROPHYSIOLOGY

ERIC E. JOHNSON, MD

Baptist Memorial Hospital - Memphis Stern Cardiovascular Foundation 8060 Wolf River Blvd., Germantown, TN 38138 901-271-1000 Arrhythmias, Pacemakers

JEFFREY E. KERLAN, MD

Baptist Memorial Hospital - Memphis Stern Cardiovascular Foundation 6027 Walnut Grove Rd., Suite 112 Memphis, TN 38120 901-271-1000 Atrial Fibrillation, Defibrillators

DAVID ZHI-QIANG LAN, MD

Baptist Memorial Hospital - Memphis Stern Cardiovascular Foundation 8060 Wolf River Blvd., Germantown, TN 38138 901-271-1000 Arrhythmias

CARDIOVASCULAR DISEASE

TODD D. EDWARDS, MD

Baptist Memorial Hospital - Memphis Stern Cardiovascular Foundation 8060 Wolf River Blvd., Germantown, TN 38138 901-271-1000 Transplant Medicine - Heart

STEVEN S. GUBIN, MD

Baptist Memorial Hospital - Memphis Stern Cardiovascular Foundation 8060 Wolf River Blvd., Germantown, TN 38138 901-271-1000 Preventive Cardiology, Echocardiography

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Coming in August CIT Y GUIDE

C E L E BR AT IN G

Memphis • THE CITY MAGA ZINE • W W W.MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM

that can be explored for their pain and incontinence issues.

40 YEARS

THE CITY MAGAZINE

The most comprehensive guide to living in the Memphis area. Featuring our annual “Who’s Who” profiles.

VOL XLI NO 5 | AUGUST 2016

CITY GUIDE 2016

Minimally Invasive GYN Surgeon

Hafsa Memon, MD

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COLLEGE GUIDE

2016 COLLEGE GUIDE

Seminars sponsored by:

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East Campus |6555 Quince Rd. | Memphis, TN 38119

Our widely read annual feature presents the area’s leading physicians as chosen by their peers.

J U L Y 2 0 1 6 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 53

there are treatments Ben Abdu, MD

At the corner of Poplar & Goodlett · 2pc.org /easter

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OF

appraisals handwash/cleaning sales reweaving repairs color run restoration pet and other stain removals moth damage odor removal and much more

8:00, 9:30 & 11:00 a.m. Worship Services in the Sanctuary at Second

Your life. Our passion.

Our in-depth guide to local colleges and universities.

7/26/16 9:06 AM

For more information on advertising or our upcoming special sections, please contact Margie Neal at margie@memphismagazine.com

11/8/2016 8:41:14 AM

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Memphis T H E CIT Y M AG AZIN E

General Excellence Grand Award Winner City and Regional Magazine Association 2007, 2008, 2010, 2014

&7

PUBLISHER/EDITOR kenneth neill EXECUTIVE EDITOR michael finger MANAGING EDITOR frank murtaugh SENIOR EDITOR shara clark ARTS & LIFESTYLE EDITOR anne cunningham o’neill FASHION EDITOR augusta campbell FOOD EDITOR pamela denney CONTRIBUTING EDITORS john branston,

tom jones, vance lauderdale, amy lawrence EDITORIAL OPERATIONS ASSOCIATE sam cicci

4

CREATIVE DIRECTOR brian groppe PRODUCTION OPERATIONS DIRECTOR margie neal SENIOR ART DIRECTOR carrie beasley ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR christopher myers GRAPHIC DESIGNERS jeremiah matthews,

bryan rollins PHOTOGRAPHY dan ball, justin fox burks, larry

kuzniewski, andrea zucker

4

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES joy bateman,

sloane patteson taylor ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE zach scott ADVERTISING ASSISTANT roxy matthews

4

published by contemporary media, inc. memphis, tn 901-521-9000 p • 901-521-0129 f subscriptions: 901-521-9000

4

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER kenneth neill CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER molly willmott CONTROLLER ashley haeger DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT jeffrey a. goldberg EDITORIAL DIRECTOR bruce vanwyngarden DIGITAL MANAGER kevin lipe DISTRIBUTION MANAGER lynn sparagowski EMAIL MARKETING MANAGER britt ervin IT DIRECTOR joseph carey ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT celeste dixon RECEPTIONIST kalena mckinney

&7

april 2017

CARING FROM CROSSTOWN BEGINS SPRING 2017 1350 CONCOURSE AVE. SUITE 142

churchhealth.org/give 10 Memphis.Ad.CaringFrom.2.7.17.indd • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M 1• A P R I L 2 0 1 7

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member: City and Regional Magazine Association member: Circulation Verification Council 2/7/2017 1:10:22 PM

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

GOLF & GAM Family Park 40 ACRES OF FUN

A Memphis Tradition for o 40 Years

F

irst off, I want to compliment you and the staff at Memphis magazine for the great work you do in producing a first-class magazine that makes all of us living here proud of greater Memphis. We’ve been subscribers almost since we moved here in 2004 and really enjoy getting each edition; we’ve even given it as gifts to our neighbors and friends. We all know our local news is often somewhat depressing with the many challenges we face as a community, so it’s always great to read about some of the positive things going on, hear about the people making it happen, learn about our many strong community organizations and business partnerships, etc. That said, I was disappointed in John Branston’s Fine Print feature in the March 2017 edition, “Looking for a Secretary of Education.” An example of what I mentioned above of someone making a positive difference for our community, it wasn’t the topic itself, nor disagreement with Mr. Branston’s praise of Superintendent Hopson. My disappointment came from the author’s use of the military analogy that the superintendent, “. . . is so battle-tested he could wear medals.” These words show either a lack of compassion for those serving in our Armed Forces or a lack of understanding of what it takes to earn those “medals.” When I read that passage, I thought about two things which are obviously not true: the first is that the superintendent is at war with someone or some group in the school system, and second, that somehow his efforts reached the level of being awarded a medal for valor or of extraordinary service akin to members of the Armed Forces who serve in harm’s way. We continue to read about the growing divide between society in general and those that serve and words like this contribute to that dumbing-down of what our society knows about our Armed Forces. I don’t know Mr. Branston (or Superintendent Hopson for that matter) and I assume he was writing for effect and not trying to minimize or denigrate anyone’s service. But words matter and in this case, I think Mr. Branston used a poor choice of words, which were then emphasized in the prominent red-type call-out box. During an editorial review, that one sentence could’ve been stricken and nothing about the feature’s meaning would’ve changed, nor would his point have been less impactful. While noteworthy as to the difference Superintendent Hopson has made and continues to make, I have to also say that the feature’s tone borders on a political bent (rant?) I’m not used to seeing in Memphis magazine. My intent is not to advocate for or against U.S. Secretary of Education Betsy DeVos, but it’s obvious Mr. Branston has a position and tearing Secretary DeVos down, both directly and indirectly, was the other theme of his story and the obvious vehicle he used to highlight Superintendent Hopson. I’m not sure why he had to go so far with the political-speak to get his point across as to Superintendent Hopson’s success or why he couldn’t have just given us more in-depth facts about the good the superintendent has done, with perhaps a passing reference to Secretary DeVos as opposed to the central theme. I can get all the political commentary I want from the Commercial Appeal or from many other sources. I’d hope your publication can remain free of political dialogue, especially one-way dialogue that implies consent on your part to whatever flavor it might be, and focus on greater Memphis and the many great things going on here and not become just another political publication. Again, thanks for highlighting what makes it great to live here and for taking my feedback into account. Colonel Charlie Smithers, U.S. Army (Ret.) memphis magazine welcomes feedback from our readers. You can email us at murtaugh@memphismagazine.com.

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www.golfandgamesmemphis.com Golf Academy of Memphis. 901-372TOP 100

in the U.S. Golf Range & Pro Shop 100 Tee Lighted 54 Holes Driving Range.of Putt-Putt Golf 100 Arcade Games —GRAA Mid-South’s Largest Go-Kart Track Children’s Go-Karts & Rides Multi-Level Lasertron Laser Tag Softball/Baseball Batting Bumper Boats • Battle Zone Roller Coaster Simulator • Much More! We proudly offer a full service golf learning center

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Love a little die a little and break the law. Trey Milligan did all three in the summer before his 14th birthday.

From Sartoris Literary Group, the debut novel by Frank Murtaugh. Pre-order eBook ($8.95) now at Amazon.com. Paperback ($19.95) available June 15th.

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IN THE BEGINNING | by kenneth neill

Post Scripts

E

very magazine editor’s job description includes the fielding of compliments, concerns, and complaints from readers. And while this is not always my favorite task, more often than not it proves to be very enlightening.

CELEBRATING 38 YEARS SELLING

ALL AROUND TOWN Jimmy Reed, President

Since 1868 JimmyReedRealtor.com | 901.682.1868

“A CAREER BUILT UPON TRUST”

Playing Favorites WE ARE THRILLED TO welcome Astrid Schween, newly appointed cellist of the Juilliard String Quartet, and her brilliant piano partner, Michael Gurt, in a concert of favorite works from the repertoire: Sonatas by Beethoven (A Major), Brahms (F Major), and Shostakovich. Come and be dazzled! JOIN US

sunday april 9, 2017 3pm

1 7 3 8 R I D G E WA Y R O A D MEMPHIS, TN 38119

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Recently I had the occasion to gain just such casualties of the internet age we live in. After enlightenment. In this space in our January all, why bother sending your opinion directly 2017 issue, I put forward the concept that ev- to us when, within minutes, you can send a ery American voter should be able to pass group e-mail or a tweet, letting the whole unithe same basic civics test that we as a nation verse know just how you feel about something require naturalized citizens to pass before they in Memphis magazine? are given the right to vote. One day last month But these two recent reader responses reI received a message from a Mr. Smith (not minded me of something that we in the busihis real name), a reader who, I was told, was ness often forget. Historically, magazines not pleased with that column. I have been creators, not just of returned the call, expecting to (hopefully) good journalism, but get my editorial clock cleaned. of genuine communities. The This, however, was not at all great nineteenth-century magwhat happened. azines – the survivors today “Your concept of requiring include Harper’s and The Atlantic native-born Americans to take – brought together generation afthe same civics test immigrants ter generation of sentient beings, about to be citizens take was all across this country. Whether brilliant,” Mr. Smith said. “But you read Harper’s in Minneapolis then you went and screwed the or Memphis, you were part of a whole column up by dragging community that treasured truth the recent election into the mix.” over falsehood. Most of the time, August 1977 I must admit I hadn’t thought the journalism was informative (see page 31 ) along those lines. But Mr. Smith and enlightening, but the comhad a point, and went on to bring up something munity bond these kinds of publications creelse I hadn’t even thought about while writing ated was just as important as the reports and essays they produced. that particular column. “You know, all of us who read Memphis magPerhaps that’s where modern city magaazine are part of a community. Whatever our zines come in, particularly those magazines politics, we care every day about what hap- that have been forces in their communities pens in our city and why. We are proud of our for long periods of time. While daily newspastrengths, aware of our weaknesses, but deeply pers, for example, have suffered mightily in the committed. I read Memphis magazine because digital age, city magazines – the good ones at it gives me an honest look at what this city is least – have by and large remained viable and all about, good or bad. So, please, stick to what powerful forces for change and continuity in you do best!” their communities. Not everyone here sees I thanked him for his call, and suggested their work, but regional magazines like Texas that we get together sometime soon. In fact, Monthly and Philadelphia annually produce some we’ve since done just that, and had an excel- of the best long-form journalism in America. Here at home, Memphis the magazine turns lent conversation about all manner of things, despite the fact that our politics are hardly 41 this month, by the way, serving a diverse identical. community of readers that has been built over A week or two later, we received an actual four decades. That’s a very special group. As letter from another real-live subscriber. And my experience this past month has shown, we while it was in response to a completely differ- not only welcome, we require regular feedback ent story (see p. 11), it also reminded me of the from all of you. So feel free to let us know what place city magazines can play in bringing to- you think of what we do, and hopefully our gether their communities, and gave inspiration letters to the editor page will make the kind to our bringing back a “letters to the editor” of “comeback” that will further enhance our page to the front of this magazine this month. sense of community. Kenneth Neill Once upon a time, such pages were a funpublisher/editor damental part of what magazines were all neill@contemporary-media.com about. Now many of them have disappeared,

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3/15/17 11:43 AM


SPOTLIGHT | Five Fridays of Free Jazz | Benjamin L. Hooks Central Library | March 3, 2017 | Photography by Andrea Zucker

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his free series, presented by The Levitt Shell and Memphis Public Libraries, is in its second successful year. We went to the first well-attended Friday event which featured music by the Reach Forever Quartet. Amro loaned the piano for the night, and artist Stacey Ferguson was on hand to paint the scene. There is always a cash bar and the music starts at 6:30, but come early to mix and mingle. These events are fun and community-building and draw people to the library who might not otherwise realize what an incredible resource center it is. The Second Editions used bookstore in the library will be open for these Friday evenings as well. Mark your calendars as there will be two more jazz events this month, one on April 14th and another on the 28th. — Anne Cunningham O’Neill

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Panoramic view of the event 2 Diane Jalfon, Henry Nelson, and Anne Pitts 3 Jacqueline Wallace and Vernetta Anderson 4 Camilla Wilson and Ross Phillips 1 5 Dalynn Stewart and Ellen Munoz 6 Suzanne Foote and Don Hassell 7 Herm Markell and Therese Mangold 8 Takumi Shimojima and Magumi Mayumi 9 Callum, Erik, Cicely, Quinn, and Matej Carlson 1 0 Alicia and Ana Garcia 1 1 Callie Farmer and Wayne Bannon 14 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • A P R I L 2 0 1 7

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3/15/17 11:44 AM


FINE PRINT

All in Good Fun? Maybe our 24/7 sports fixation is hazardous to our health.

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n this season of Lent, what better thing to give up than an addiction to professional and big-time college sports? The “nightmare of Obamacare” or the “insanity of Trumpism,” depending on your point of view, is no worse than the greed, brutality, hypocrisy, and corruption of the NFL, NBA, and NCAA. Rapes at Baylor and Vanderbilt and Montana and North Carolina, convicts idolized as heroes in the NFL, serious discussions on ESPN about the “unfairness” of Aaron Rodgers not getting a $150 million contract, and — to come down a few pegs — a head coach of the NBA Grizzlies who tells fans who dare to criticize him to “kiss my [butt]” and makes headlines for doing it. Obscene, obnoxious, infantilizing, hypocritical, soul-killing, and boring are printable words that come to mind. I know, I am not one to talk. I aged out of sports fandom but still sneak a peak at UT football, the World Series, and the Super Bowl. I’ll put on my Michigan cap and cheer for the Wolverines this September.

But, damn, it’s getting harder and harder to do. Those crowd shots of color-coordinated aff luent white students and alumni cheering for black gladiators on the field are weird, to put it mildly. Those of us in front of our televisions are simply addicted to a lesser degree. A few months ago I traded in some expiring frequent f lier

miles for magazine subscripthe ranks of the notorious. The most famous hostess in college tions, including one to Sports Illustrated that I had let lapse football lore is arguably Lacey years ago. SI used to run a litEarps of the University of Tentle front-of-the-magazine piece nessee Orange Pride, a womcalled “Sign of an nick named Obscene, obnoxious, “ The C lo ser,” the Apocalypse” featuring some whose story was infantilizing, outrageous quote told by Armen hypocritical, soulKetey i a n a nd or excess from the sports world. Jeff Benedict in killing, and boring are Now they could the book The Sysprintable words that f ill 50 pages a tem in 2013. come to mind. week with them, T he B ay lo r details are just if only they had so gripping, and the facts so the advertising. The features in this particular issue included undeniable now that the case one on the NFL “combine” — has made its way through the the audition for prospects — courts and left the liars and and the enhanced technology apologists with no wiggle room. that lowers those all-important The victim of one rape went 40-yard sprint times and bench public and was a former footpresses and another one on a ball fan. Once a nursing student 6’9” 396-pound college prospect on an academic scholarship, she “who barely knows what a first lost her scholarship and eventudown is, but so what?” ally dropped out of school and So what, indeed? went into therapy. Baylor, deservedly, is on the Her attacker, who was accused of several other rapes, hot seat now because of its sanctimonious former presiwas convicted and sentenced to dent Kenneth Starr, its Baptist 20 years in prison in 2014. The foundation, coaches who lie as Board of Regents split between easily as they breathe, legal judeniers and come-cleaners. jitsu (the college’s best defense Starr polished his affable image is the statute of limitations), by running on to the field with the coed “hostesses” who enstudents before games while the tertained recruits, and the allegations were still being disappalling number of alleged missed as “isolated incidents” or rapes — 52 of them by at least “unfounded reports.” When the 31 football players from 2011 coed stood her ground, went through 2014. As even one of public, and won her case at trial the television announcers said he was run out of town. last season while broadcastShe could be your sister or your daughter or your girling a close game, “It’s hard to cheer for Baylor.” friend. When you look at it that But Baylor’s sordid story is way, it becomes a little harder to not unique. North Carolina cheer and a little easier to turn off your television set.  and Vanderbilt have also joined

ILLUSTRATION BY ANDREW PAVLOVICH | DREAMSTIME

by john branston

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Think of it as a URWell: MethodistHealth.org/PrimaryCare Whether it’s online or at any of the nearly 30 Methodist Medical Group Primary Care offices around Memphis, you’ll find primary care reimagined. Our physicians and supporting care team members serve as guides for all of your health care needs — offering comprehensive care throughout our extensive network of physicians.

To make an appointment today, call 901.758.9898. Learn more at MethodistHealth.org/PrimaryCare.

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3/15/17 11:45 AM


CITY JOURNAL

The Lock ’Em Up Approach No city needs sweeping criminal justice reform more than Memphis.

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emphis and Shelby County Governments spent more than $5 billion in the past 10 years on criminal justice — from enforcement on the street to hearings in court to time in prison. And yet, Memphians don’t seem to feel any safer. The spike in crime in 2016, driven by the record-setting 228 murders, dominated news coverage and fueled the debate about whether money is better spent on more police or on prevention programs. With the political reality that law and order policies are rewarded at the polls, prevention rarely has a fighting chance. With public debate concentrating on how to reduce murders and get more police in the streets, serious trouble signs in other parts of the criminal justice process get less attention than they deserve. There are complaints about prosecutors withholding information from defense lawyers, and the Tennessee Court of Appeals reversed some high-profile murder convictions. The Shelby

County Juvenile Court attracts the attention of the U.S. Department of Justice because of its “systematic failures … that violate children’s due process and equal protection rights.” A “lock ’em up” attitude permeates policies, and because of it, local government lobbies the Tennessee Legislature regularly for more and more prosecutors, for laws that take away judicial f lexibility and impose longer mandatory sentences, and for some anti-gang measures that give civil libertarians heartburn. A $9.7 million computer upgrade for the Shelby County Jail ended up with some people being “lost” in jail after they should have been released. At about the same time, Shelby County Public Defender Stephen Bush sounded the alarm about 10 people in jail who had been waiting for a to-

tal of 795 days for mental health control jail costs, but that prestreatment. sure does not exist here. MemAfter years of battling to get phis does not have a city jail, so the inmate population to manonce police arrest someone and ageable levels, jail overcrowding drop them at the Shelby County is again a problem with an averJail sally port, the costs are paid by county government. age of about 2,400 men and 275 women, not because more people Historically, American jails were to be used to house peoare being booked into jail, but because they are staying longer. ple accused of crimes who were It’s the law of unintended considered flight risks, but toconsequences. State legislators day, they are much more, which is passed laws that meant inmates, why our jail has to take seriously the responsibility to help people when convicted, will stay in with mental health, drug depenprison longer, so bail bonds are dency, and health problems. But higher and more defendants are putting off the inevitable by goShelby County Jail is just one part ing to trial. of the system, and while criminal If there was one clear indicajustice reform has received nation of how broken the system is, tional attention from both sides it was when a common sense, noof the political spectrum, it rerisk bond program went down in mains largely unaddressed here. Usually, the same people from flames. It was proposed by Just City, which in only two years the same organizations talk has upset the prosecutor-centric about their problems, while the culture of the criminal justice news media treat prosecutors as if they are in charge rather than system. Its plan was to use prijust one piece of a complex puzvate donations to cover bail for carefully screened nonviolent dezle. What’s missing is real comfendants. It failed prehensive crimiin Memphis but nal justice reform With the political went into effect in that is broader, reality that law and Nashville. more balanced, order policies are a n d i n c lu d e s Forty-five years ago, several Crimmore voices. rewarded at the polls, inal Court judges, With one of prevention rarely has the highest innotably W. Otis Higgs, called for carceration rates a fighting chance. an overhaul of the for major cities in bail bond system, and Shelby the U.S. — three times higher County Attorney General Phil than Detroit and Birmingham, Canale Jr. said it was time for and 50 percent higher than Chitighter regulation and oversight. cago and Atlanta — but still with In the interim, little has changed, one of the highest violent crime and the defeat of the proposed rates in the country, no city has modest change to the bail bond more reason to be the center of system speaks volumes about criminal justice reform. the inclination to maintain the All that it takes is finding status quo. the political will to figure out if In other cities, innovation is ofthere’s a better way to spend $5 ten driven by budget pressures to billion over the next 10 years.

PHOTOGRAPH BORTN66 | DREAMSTIME

by tom jones

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PRESENTED BY

L AT I N O M E M P H I S

Colombia FESTIVAL 2017

SATURDAY, MAY 13 / 9 AM - 4 PM / OVERTON PARK Latino Memphis and Memphis in May have partnered in 2017 to salute Colombia

Get ready to party Colombian style! We’ll have Colombian cuisine, arts & crafts, kids’ activities, action-packed interactive soccer demonstrations, salsa dancing classes for adults and kids and an outdoor marketplace featuring shopping for all things local. Register for the Fiesta 5K and join Memphians from all walks of life running together for unity. You can also enter the Salsa-Making Championship for a chance to have your recipe named the best salsa in the 901.

World-Class Performances Not to be Missed!

Colombian Folkloric Ballet of Houston, Cali Salsa Pal Mundo, the 2017 World Salsa Summit Champions, and Futboleros who will present a high-energy freestyle soccer show.

Latino Memphis

FIESTA

Become a Festival Vendor Interest form deadline: Friday, April 28

Calling all Salsa Chefs! Team registration deadline: Friday, May 5

Run for Unity

Registration deadline: Wednesday, May 11

For festival schedule or to register visit latinomemphis.org / $5 suggested donation at the entrance gate

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OU T A ND A BOU T

APRIL 2017 | compiled by samuel cicci

Memphis City FC

4.28,30

Memphis City FC I-40 Cup

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emphis’ new soccer team kicks off its second season in a two-legged tie against Mid-South rivals Little Rock Rangers. The teams will duke it out for the coveted I-40 Cup, a traffic cone representing regional dominance. The first game will be played at home, so join the Rogue Squadron fan group and cheer on our new team. Mike Rose Soccer Complex, 9000 E. Shelby Dr. memphiscityfc.com

4.5-8

Memphis Fashion Week

Overton Square Scrubs Week

4.3-7

Scrubs Week

For one week only at Overton Square, restaurants and businesses will be honoring medical professionals with discounts. Anyone with a valid medical ID is welcome, although personnel are encouraged to wear scrubs. Overton Square 2101 Madison Ave.

4.4

MLK50: Where Do We Go From Here?

The National Civil Rights Museum launches a year-long

commemoration of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., leading up to the 50th anniversary of his death in 2018. A leadership team and scholars committee will work to provide activities throughout the year, with the goal of linking the issues Dr. King was most concerned with at the end of his life to positive social change. The museum will also host a special website to provide a new platform for storytelling and engagement: MLK50.civilrights.org National Civil Rights Museum, 450 Mulberry St. civilrightsmuseum.org

Non-profit Memphis Fashion Design Network (MFDN) hosts Memphis Fashion Week, several days dedicated to cultivating and celebrating local fashion, from designers, photographers, models, to boutiques. Fashion Week aims to keep emerging industry talents in Memphis while focusing on education, workforce development, manufacturing, and fashion design infrastructure. Visit their website for various locations. memphisfashionweek.org

Memphis Fashion Week

Overton Square Crawfish Fest

4.8

Overton Square Crawfish Festival

4.15

Bacon & Bourbon

The Memphis Flyer brings you an event replete with two Southern Overton Square celebrates traditions. Explore the joy of everyone’s favorite freshwater crustacean with its annual Crawfish combining both bacon and bourbon as local restaurants Festival. Starting on Madison provide their own creative takes and stretching from Cooper to on delectable bacon dishes Morrison, the festival features an alongside a wide variety of arts and crafts market, live music distilled spirits. Tickets are going performances, and around 4,000 fast, so be sure to grab one while pounds of crawfish. The festival is free to enter, while food and drink they’re still available. Memphis Farmers Market will be available for purchase. memphisbaconandbourbon. Overton Square com 2101 Madison Ave. overtonsquarecrawfishfestival. contin u ed on page 22 com

Bacon and Bourbon

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3/21/17 1:39 PM


SPRING TIME WRAPS

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3/20/17 12:08 PM


OU T A ND A BOU T contin u ed from page 2 0

The Sound of Music

4.18-23

The Sound of Music

The Orpheum halls are alive, for The Sound of Music is coming to Memphis. Venture alongside the Von Trapps on their musical adventure through Nazi Germany. Directed by three-time Tony Award winner Jack O’Brien, the musical is sure to recapture the original film’s magic on stage. The Orpheum Theater, 203 S. Main St. orpheum-memphis.com

Southern Hot Wing Festival

4.22

Southern Hot Wing Festival

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The greatest culinary invention since sliced bread, the chicken wing will be out in force at the Southern Hot Wing Festival. If you’re feeling peckish, thousands of pounds of spicy wings are available, with proceeds going to local charities. But don’t get too cocky with your wing-eating prowess, as competition is fierce in the wing cooking and wing eating contests. The festival also hosts a live auction, live music, and a children’s area. Corner of Court Ave. and Riverside Dr. southernhotwingfestival.com

4.22

V&E Artwalk

Venice Tile & Marble showroom

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Do you enjoy supporting the local community as well as local artists? Then be sure to come on down to the 6th annual V&E Artwalk. Over 65 artists will show off their work, while wine, craft beer, barbecue, tacos, children’s art activities, and bounce houses round out the festivities. Proceeds from the event go toward maintaining the V&E Greenline community trail. 1625 Tutwiler Ave. vegreenline.org

4.29

Bookstock

Memphis area authors unite at Bookstock, the annual celebration of local literature mavens. The family-friendly event includes the participation of 40 authors, with readings, book signings, storytime for the kids, face painting, and, of course, food trucks and live music. Benjamin L. Hooks Central Library, 3030 Poplar Ave. memphislibrary.org/bookstock

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3/16/17 11:34 AM


CIT Y FL A SHBACK S

Witness #43 She was working at the Lorraine Motel on April 4, 1968. Where did she go?

by henry nelson “Female colored, 21, Residence, 160 Walker, Apt. 2, phone, 947-3787. Her statement reflects that she is employed at the Loraine (sic) Hotel as a waitress and cook, that she was at the motel when Dr. King was shot, and she heard the shot, but did not see it. She thought a tire blew out. Her statement is brief, and in the statement she tells of a girl named Lois telling her nobody killed him but a policeman.”

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n the Homicide Bureau’s Criminal Investigation Report, filed by the Memphis Police Department in July 1968, the young woman described above was simply Witness #43, a hotel worker on the premises of the Lorraine Motel on the afternoon of April 4, 1968. To me, however, she was someone special. Witness #43 was my older sister, Mary Ellen. Most families have things they don’t talk much about, incidents rarely spoken about, or stories that remain invisible for generations. Each year in April, I am reminded of how one of the greatest tragedies of modern times personally touched a member of my family. Yet for many years, it was a subject we never discussed. Only right: In this iconic black-and-white photo of Dr. King’s entourage pointing from the balcony, Mary Ellen is standing at the bottom of the stairs, with her arms crossed in a distinctly familiar posture of fear and worry.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSEPH LOUW / GETT Y IMAGES

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recently have Mary and I begun to talk about that difficult day, and even now, there is reluctance to do so on her part. This is the first time I have ever written about it. Mary Ellen was one of six employees on duty at the Lorraine Motel when Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. “It was not a big place,” she explains, “so we didn’t need a lot of employees.” April 4th began like most workdays for Mary Ellen and her colleagues, when she arrived at her maid’s job at the Lorraine. In a matter of hours, however, she would be an unwitting and ultimately silent witness to history. Across the river in West Memphis, the day started out ordinary for me as well. I was in my first year at the predominantly white West Memphis Junior High School, and I changed eighth-grade classes throughout the day.

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The evening of the murder remains something of a blur, but what happened at school the next day is etched in my memory. Three white boys whom I didn’t know — cheerful, playful, and enthusiastic — passed me on the sidewalk, laughing, shouting, and repeating in close proximity: “They killed that nigger!” In that moment, I remember being stunned, frightened, sad, hurt, and angry, not just over their taunting, but also being tired of dealing with a well of emotions that I had been experiencing much of my life. I had just turned 14. I was vaguely aware that my sister worked at the Lorraine, but it was no big deal. After Dr. King’s assassination, I remember the family looking at a photo of Mary Ellen and a co-worker crying hysterically; that picture later appeared in Jet, Ebony, and the local West Memphis newspaper, and perhaps elsewhere. My sister frequently speaks fondly of Olivia,

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who was on duty with her that day. Mary Ellen can’t remember Olivia’s last name; I’ve since located statements by Olivia Hayes (Witness #42) but have no idea of her whereabouts. It’s an irony of history that both Mary Ellen and Olivia were so close, yet so removed, from one of history’s most painful tragedies, and along the way became silent and invisible to each other as well. Maybe they will connect through this essay, and perhaps there will be better closure for both of them. My sister worked three years at the Lorraine. The handful of employees rotated through housekeeping services, working the switchboard, acting as concierge, and working as a short-order cook at the motel’s restaurant. At the moment of the assassination Mary Ellen had just finished answering phones and had moved to the restaurant; Olivia was at the switchboard. During one of our casual conversations she told me “that’s my cleaning cart next to his room,” referring to the balcony in the well-known photo of Dr. King’s body and his colleagues pointing in the direction of where the shot had been fired. The late Walter and Loree Catherine Bailey were the owners of the Lorraine Motel at

Most families have things they don’t talk much about, incidents rarely spoken about, or stories that remain

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invisible for generations. the time. Several employees chose to stay at the hotel for three days after the shooting. I asked Mary Ellen if it was for the police investigation. “No, Mrs. Bailey told us to stay there because of the curfew and the rioting,” she recalled. “And Olivia and I knew how to run the switchboard.” In that iconic black-and-white photo of Dr. King’s entourage pointing from the balcony, Mary Ellen is standing at the bottom of the stairs with a co-worker and the Baileys, with her arms crossed in a distinctly familiar posture of fear and worry — a posture which I have seen on several occasions. When I asked Mary Ellen what she was thinking, she replied: “About how this could have happened. We were just looking up toward the balcony, talking to Mr. and Mrs. Bailey. I had just walked out of the kitchen right behind me; we didn’t know where the shot came from. There were a lot of people staying at the hotel and outside.” Mary Ellen already had moved across the river from West Memphis, a year or two before the assassination. She had two children, and was living at Walker and Third, not far from Gaston Park. On Fridays, I would take

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the bus across the river from West Memphis and spend the weekend babysitting for my sister. The bus would rumble across the old bridge and drop me off at Crump and Third, and I’d walk to my sister’s house. The fare was 25 cents. Mary Ellen moved to Lansing, Michigan, not long after April 4, 1968, where she lives to this day. She got a job as a school bus driver, had two more children, and three years ago, married her second husband. She is now happily retired in Lansing. Not surprisingly, she’s a diehard Michigan State fan, and rarely misses a Spartan football or basketball game. Over the years, our conversations about her time at the Lorraine have been few and far between. “It was just something that happened,” she has told me, many times. She tells me that over her long employment in Lansing, there are only two coworkers who know about her experience.

Several employees chose to stay at the hotel for three days after the shooting. I asked Mary Ellen if it was for the police

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to stay because of the curfew and the rioting,” she recalled. I’ve asked Mary Ellen why she talks so little about her time at the Lorraine, and with familiar nervous laughter, her reply is straightforward: “I didn’t say anything because I didn’t want people to think I was lying. I would sometimes show them the picture. To me, it’s just something that happened. After they shot Dr. King, they didn’t care about us.” Perhaps there are others like Mary Ellen who spent such intimate moments at the Lorraine and also share similar thoughts. I brought this up in a conversation with Raka Nandi, collections manager and registrar at the National Civil Rights Museum. “There is something both shocking and authentic about revealing why Mary Ellen is reluctant to talk about this experience,” says Nandi. “Many people want to insert their story into the lives of historical figures or celebrities, and Dr. King’s case is no exception. “Mary Ellen did not want to cheapen her memory of this moment by being perceived in this way. But it clearly was one of the pivotal moments of her life.”  Henry Nelson’s long radio career began in 1973 at WLYX, located on the campus of Southwestern at Memphis (now Rhodes College). Early in his career he was an on-air personality for WMC’s FM-100, and in 1979 he was part of the start-up team for WHRK-97. Today, he is community outreach and projects specialist with the City of Memphis Libraries Division.

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Richard Halliburton looks over the Acropolis in Athens, Greece, during a 1926 journey through Europe. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE RICHARD HALLIBURTON ARCHIVES - RHODES COLLEGE

RICH ARD H ALLIBURTON EDITOR’S NOTE: At one time, Memphian

THE FORGOTTEN MYTH by guy townsend

Richard Halliburton (19001939) was one of the bestknown writers in America, if not the world, with readers clamoring for his books and magazine articles about his travels and adventures, and newspapers covering his dramatic exploits around the globe. Today, his fame has mostly faded away, his time in Memphis memorialized by the Halliburton Tower on the campus of Rhodes College. This article, which originally appeared in the August 1977 issue of

“We all have our dreams. Otherwise what a dark and stagnant world this would be ... Lord Byron once wrote that he would rather have swum the Hellespont than written all his poetry. So would I! Sometimes, once in a long, long while, sentimental dreams come true. Mine did, and it was as colorful and satisfying as all my flights of fancy had imagined it would be.” — richard halliburton,

S

THE GLOR IOUS A DVENTUR E

wimming the Hellespont, which Richard Halliburton did in 1926 in imitation of his hero Byron, was but one of the dreams, sentimental or otherwise, made real by the adventurer-writer in his brief, spectacular life. His exploits were featured on the front pages of local newspapers around the globe; his own accounts of his adventures were translated into virtually

every major language. Between 1921 and 1939 he ventured in the company of Borneo headhunters and heads of state, French Foreign Legionnaires and Devil’s Island con-

this magazine, traces the

victs, Oriental sages, South American Indians, and subscribers to the Ladies’ Home

dramatic rise and fall of a

Journal. In the end, his life and works were indeed as colorful as could be imagined; as

true American original.

for satisfaction, he might well have settled for a single Byronic stanza.

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Halliburton had fans of all ages. Thelma Courtney King of Dallas, Texas, sent this photograph to the author’s parents in 1941. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY RICHARD HALLIBURTON ARCHIVES - RHODES COLLEGE

The second two decades of the twentieth century — the Twenties and Thirties — constituted perhaps the last age of adventure and conquest acknowledged by the modern world. It was the era of Lindbergh and Hemingway, of Babe Ruth and Rudolph Valentino. It was the era, too, of Richard Halliburton. Unlike his contemporaries, however, Halliburton is largely forgotten today. The exploits that made him famous in his lifetime are uncelebrated in his absence; his books, tremendous bestsellers in their day, are long since out of print. There are those who would argue that this circumstance is fitting enough for a man whose writings have as little relevance to the present-day world as an operator’s manual for a Stanley Steamer. Be that as it may, Richard Halliburton was in his own way a remarkable man who lived an interesting and eventful, if incomplete, life, and for a decade and a half, anyway, he was the most famous Memphian in the world. Those who do find their way to Halliburton’s adventures today generally represent two widely separate segments of the reading public — older readers, who remember the man from his heyday half a century ago, and adolescent readers, whose minds and spirits are still attuned to the romantic and adventurous frequency on which Halliburton operated so enthusiastically. Indeed, Halliburton’s acquaintance is probably best made during

adolescence, when the romantic urge is at its strongest, when the lives of adults seem to be endless drudgery at best. Halliburton represents — in his writing at least — an escape from all that, a casting off of tiresome responsibilities and mundane obligations, a carefree questing after the joys and adventures of life wherever they may be found, be it Borneo or Timbuctoo.

R

ichard Halliburton was born on the ninth day of the twentieth century in Brownsville, Tennessee. Shortly thereafter, he and his parents, Wesley and Nelle Halliburton, moved to Memphis. Richard briefly attended the Hutchison School for Girls, where his mother taught, and later was a student at the Memphis University School for Boys. Wesley Halliburton had hopes that his gifted son would attend his own alma mater, Vanderbilt, but Richard had his eye set on Princeton, and to further that end, he was sent to prep school at Lawrenceville, a mere six miles down the road from the Ivy League institution in New Jersey. It was at Princeton, which he entered with the Class of 1921, that Richard was first overcome by the wanderlust which was to dominate his life. At the end of his sophomore year he “ran away” to New Orleans, where he signed on as an ordinary seaman on a freighter bound for England. Life aboard the freight-

er was harder and much less romantic than the young man had expected, however, and he would have jumped ship when it put in at Norfolk, Virginia, but the Halliburtons were vacationing nearby, and Richard’s mother, insisting that he carry out his obligation to the captain, persuaded her son to return to the ship and complete the voyage. Halliburton later saw the incident as the turning point in his life. Richard spent the next several months walking about England and France, taking in all he could with seemingly boundless energy, and sailed home in January of 1920. He returned to Princeton in the middle of the spring term, where his leave-taking and newfound worldliness earned him a mixture of envy, awe, and resentment. Halliburton sold his first piece of professional writing, an account of a hunting and fishing trip he took with friends to the Montana Rockies, which Field and Stream bought for $150. Richard had entertained the rather unlikely notion of spending his life traveling and adventuring about the world, supporting himself by writing about his activities. With the success of his first story, he determined not only that he could, but also that he would. Richard had earlier made his most important determination, however — that he would never resign himself to the “even tenor” of life his father hoped he would settle into when his youthful exuberance was spent. He had written his father from Paris: “I hate that expression, and as far as I am able, I intend to avoid that condition. When impulse and spontaneity fail to make my way uneven then I shall sit up nights inventing means of making my life as conglomerate and vivid as possible … .And when my time comes to die, I’ll be able to die happy, for I will have done and seen and heard and experienced all the joy, pain, and thrills — any emotion that any human ever had — and I’ll be especially happy if I am spared a stupid, common death in bed … .”

U

pon his graduation from Princeton in the spring of 1921, Halliburton sailed for Europe, beginning his first trip around the world. Until such time as he began to sell his magazine articles, Richard was receiving an allowance of $100 per month from his father; Wesley Halliburton had also arranged for The Commercial Appeal to buy all the travel articles his son sent in, at $35 apiece. After extensive, though uneventful, travel in northern Europe and the Low Countries, Halliburton arrived at last in Zermatt, Switzerland, the site of his first genuine adventure (as distinguished from the ersatz adventures he created, on occasion, in order to add zest and excitement to his later writings). On September 23, 1921, Richard, in the company of a friend and two capable

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guides, began his ascent of the Matterhorn, the finished product in hand he had trouble arriving at the 14,701-foot summit just before selling it to publishers, who regarded it as noon on the following day. Richard had never sophomoric; finally, in April 1924, his Princeton connections, on which he relied heavily climbed before, and that fact, plus the dangerous climbing conditions which prevailed whenever possible, helped get the book acso late in the season, combined to make his cepted by Bobbs-Merrill, on the condition ascent of the Matterhorn a feat worth bragthat it be pared down somewhat in size. The ging about. Royal Road to Romance (which Richard adaAfter further travels in France and Spain, mantly insisted the book be titled, over the Halliburton arrived in Gibraltar in January strenuous objections of his publishers) was 1922, where he succeeded on its way to publication. in getting himself arrestEven before the book Halliburton was a ed as a German spy by was off the presses, Hallpersisting in taking phoiburton was on his way to remarkable man who tographs of British instalhis second round of advenlations after having been tures, this time to retrace lived an eventful, if warned repeatedly that it the route of Ulysses as incomplete, life, and for was forbidden to do so. He described in Homer’s Odyssey. He sailed from New was finally let off with a a decade and a half, he 10-pound fine. He did not York on the Mauretania have that much money July 4, 1925. It was on was the most famous himself, but he borrowed this trip that Halliburit from an acquaintance ton re-enacted Lord Memphian in the world. and quickly fled the island. Byron’s swim across the Hellespont (the (Halliburton’s personality inspired generosity in others, and he was Dardanelles). Halliburton made the never the least bit backwards in taking adcrossing in two hours on August 11th. vantage of it.) After a brief stay in Egypt he The swim, though certainly demandtraveled extensively throughout India, the ing, was hardly an extraordinary feat high point of his Indian adventures being a — it had been accomplished, unhermidnight swim in the elevated pool before the alded, by a number of persons before. Taj Mahal. Halliburton stretched his limited Halliburton managed to turn it into a funds while in India by stealing free rides publicity stunt nevertheless by havon trains — dodging conductors and, when ing it reported in the U.S. that he had necessary, lying about having lost his ticket. drowned in the attempt. Things did In fact, he seems to have held to the belief that not work out exactly as planned, howwhen he committed crimes of this nature they ever, and Richard was able to clear his were to be regarded as light-hearted pranks. skirts only by dint of some dexterous From India, he traveled considerably — misrepresentation. and often dangerously — about Asia and on to Japan, where he scaled 12,700-foot Mt. t is somewhat curious that Fujiyama alone in a season when the climb Halliburton would resort to exaggeration — and in some cases, fabrication was regarded as impossible. He finally sailed from Japan as a seaman on the liner Presi— in the course of this and later travels. Most dent Madison and arrived back in Memphis on of his “adventures,” however shallow or conMarch 1, 1923. trived, were real — and perilous — enough. Of the dozens of articles he had written The Hellespont swim, for example, was not during his travels, he had only managed unique, but it was a genuinely brutal expeto sell a couple to Travel and one to Nationrience: The white-capped water was numbal Geographic, so after a brief visit with his ingly cold, and Halliburton emerged severely parents, he went to New York to try to sell sunburned, suffering from nausea and exhis writings in person. His efforts were unihaustion. Indeed, the author took incredible formly unsuccessful, and by early summer, risks, albeit often unknowingly, and never he turned in desperation to lecture agencies, avoided a physical challenge, whether it took finally being signed by the Feakins Agency. the form of hostile Turkish troops, towering peaks, or cobra-infested jungles. Amazingly, At last he began to turn his travels into profit, being booked for $2,500 worth of lectures and till the end of his life, and especially in his quickly rising from 45th to 6th place on Feakmost foolish exploits, Halliburton seemed ins’ list of lecturers. The one drawback was protected as much by his innocence somehow that his busy lecture schedule left him with as by his cunning and wit. Richard was back in Memphis for Christno time for turning his notes on his travels into a book. Finally, he retreated to seclusion mas, 1926. The Royal Road to Romance was out on Nantucket Island and had a breakdown and meeting with decidedly mixed reviews. By the end of January, however, it had made of sorts before whipping the book into shape (in a sanitarium) by the year’s end. Even with the best-seller list, and by year’s end it had

I

Richard Halliburton stands with one of the drive wheels on the “20 mule team wagon” in Death Valley, California, in 1934. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY RICHARD HALLIBURTON ARCHIVES - RHODES COLLEGE

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sold 100,000 copies. Halliburton’s lecture to Mexico, where he retraced on foot Cortez’ tour during this time was a fantastic succonquest of the country and climbed Popocess, and his 1926 earnings totaled $70,000 catapetl. In the Yucatan he visited the ancient — quite a lot for a 26-year-old vagabond. Mayan site of Chichen Itza, where young virAugust and September he spent holed up in gins had been ritually thrown into the “Well his parents’ apartment in the Parkview Hotel of Death” to appease the rain god. Stand(overlooking Overton Park) working on his ing alone at the lip of the well, 70 feet above second book. The book, the dark surface of the which Richard entitled water, Halliburton was “ When my time comes to (again to his publisher’s suddenly overwhelmed die, I’ll be a ble to die embarrassment) The Globy a desire to experience rious Adventure, was due what those maidens had h a pp y, for I w ill h av e at Bobbs-Merrill in Nofelt centuries earlier; before he could think vember. It was published done a nd seen a nd he a r d in May 1927. twice, he had stepped off Despite the celebrity the ledge and was falla nd exper ienced a ll the and financial success ing. Later, climbing back he achieved during this up the cliff-like walls of joy, pa in, a nd thr ills time, Halliburton was the pool, he realized the the object of increasromantic potential of — a ny emotion th at a ny ing critical disdain for his action. Also mindful the superficiality and of the skepticism with hum a n ev er h a d ...” shallow romance of his which some of his earlier works. Though he repeatedly — and proudly feats had been greeted, Richard leapt again — justified his adventures by claiming they into the well on the following day — this time were what the public truly desired — and with a camera faithfully recording the event. he had the sales to back him up — Richard For his next stunt, Halliburton swam the occasionally took on the mantle of self-doubt Panama Canal through the locks; though he himself as to the worth of his writings. Some made the swim in stages over eight days in of his closest companions even chided him mid-August, it was a difficult, and occasionally dangerous, feat which managed to bring from time to time that he was wasting his him still more notoriety. talents, that he was capable of more significant contributions to the literature of the day. Breaking off his adventures in January It was perhaps in response to this feeling 1929, Halliburton returned to the States to that Richard sailed for England in mid-1927, spend some time on the lecture circuit, where where he spent several months gathering he now commanded a $900-per-week guaranmaterial for a biography of the poet Rupert tee. His books also continued to sell at a brisk Brooke. Ironically, Brooke’s mother proved pace. After a hero’s welcome in Memphis in May, he went back on the trail again to comto be one of the few elderly women alive caplete his obligation to the Journal. That sumpable of resisting Richard’s charms, and she mer he spent several weeks at the infamous absolutely forbade him to write about her son while she was still living. Halliburton French prison on Devil’s Island, living for a returned to New York in October with masses time as a prisoner, and for the remainder of of notes, but the biography was never written, his stay, as a guest of the governor. He later not even after Mrs. Brooke’s death a short stopped off on the island of Tobago, where he time later. Neither did Richard ever turn his played Robinson Crusoe for two weeks, comhand to “serious” writing again. plete with a man “Tuesday,” before returning to New York in late August. Halliburton’s ac k i n t h e U . S . , R ic h a r d stories had increased the Journal’s circulareturned to the lecture circuit where tion so much that the magazine gave him a his popularity was, if anything, even $2,000 bonus, and he went into seclusion at greater than before. Despite his substanan Atlantic City hotel to convert the articles tial fees and the royalties from his second into a book. Published in November 1929, it best-seller, however, he seemed to be perwas entitled, in the unmistakable Halliburton petually broke. He could never explain even style, New Worlds to Conquer. to himself where the money went. In 1928, he earned some money by endorsing Lucky he Great Crash of 1929 caught Strike cigarettes, though he didn’t smoke, Richard Halliburton with $100,000 and his chaotic spending habits forced him in the stock market, of which he lost to agree to another trip, despite a weariness more than 80 percent. Wesley Halliburton’s of travel that had suddenly settled over him. construction and real estate business in MemLadies’ Home Journal would pay him $3,000 phis also suffered indirectly, and Richard felt apiece for 10 articles on Latin America, which he had to help his parents out. Unfortunately, he could later rework into a book. the Depression was not a good time for book In April 1928, he sailed from New Orleans sales or lecture tours, either. New Worlds to

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Conquer quickly scaled the best-seller list, but even best-sellers weren’t selling particularly well. There was nothing left for Richard to do but mount yet another trip and write yet another book. Without much enthusiasm, he decided to fly around the world in a light plane, stopping for adventures at any likely places. Bobbs-Merrill liked the idea, and Ladies’ Home Journal tentatively agreed to buy another series of articles. The only problem with the plan was that Halliburton did not know how to fly and had no desire to learn. The problem was solved, but not without frustrations, by the hiring of an experienced young pilot named Moye W. Stephens. Richard scraped together enough money — in part by endorsing Chase and Sanborn coffee — to buy a Stearman two-place open cockpit biplane which he christened The Flying Carpet. After numerous delays, The Flying Carpet began its adventures in March 1931, with extensive flights around North Africa, highlighted by a daring 1,300-mile flight across the Sahara and a visit to Timbuctoo, where Richard observed the workings of the slave trade. The Journal, in the meantime, backed out of its agreement to buy Richard’s stories, leaving him with no immediate source of income. At this point, however, Halliburton was too heavily committed to the trip to have backed out had he wanted to. This downturn of luck was immediately followed by a series of near-disasters. Richard acquired a sunburn so severe in swimming across the Sea of Galilee that he had to be hospitalized in Jerusalem for a week. In Nepal, he failed to secure his seatbelt and almost fell out of the cockpit when Stephens rolled the plane. Flying high up the slopes of Mt. Everest on his 32nd birthday, Richard nearly caused the plane to stall by standing up in the air stream to snap a picture of the summit. In Singapore, he almost got himself killed by catching an anchor line in the propeller of the now pontoon-equipped Flying Carpet. Finally, in April 1932, after a pleasant bit of hobnobbing with headhunters in Borneo, the weary travelers headed home. Halliburton returned to the U.S. not merely broke, but $2,000 in debt. Before returning to the lecture circuit, he spent several months at the Alexandria, Virginia, home of Paul Mooney, a young writer he had met in California who would collaborate with Richard on the new book. Entitled, reasonably for once, The Flying Carpet, the book appeared in late November 1932. This time out, the reviewers discovered in Halliburton’s accounts a new maturity for which they applauded him roundly. Unfortunately, the book market was still in a slump. In 33 years of life, Richard Halliburton had not made a single move toward establishing a definite home for himself. In the spring of 1933, he made a tentative one by purchasing

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a dramatic ridge-top lot near Laguna Beach, California. This might also have been a hint of emerging maturity had the acquisition not been financially absurd. Halliburton could hardly afford the property, and the result was that he had to undertake another “adventure” in July; he was to be paid $200 each for 50 2,500-word newspaper articles. The trip took him from Baja, California, to the Caribbean, then on to Europe and Asia, where his most notable achievement was an exclusive interview in Siberia with a man who claimed to have overseen the execution of the Russian royal family and the disposal of their bodies. He also rode an elephant Hannibal-style across the Alps. By the time he returned in August, Richard’s newspaper articles had increased his popularity beyond anything it had ever been before, and he was once again in great demand for lectures. But he was tired, and he dreaded the work necessary for readying his new book, which he entitled (in a regrettable lapse into his old ways) Seven League Boots. He finished it, however, in a month’s visit to Memphis, and though it received generally favorable reviews, surprisingly it did not sell very well. Richard was travel-weary at this point, and after a whirlwind lecture tour he took an apartment in San Francisco and settled for a while. In time, Bobbs-Merrill approached him with the idea of doing a book for children, combining adventure and geography, and Richard was taken by the idea, particularly since it would not require any additional travel. The book, to be called Richard Halliburton’s Book of Marvels, would be done in two volumes, one on the East and the other on the West. Halliburton spent the summer of 1936 working on it before resuming his lectures in the fall. It was about this time that Halliburton’s attention first turned toward what was to be his last adventure. A friend gave him the idea of sailing a junk from China to San Francisco for the 1939 World’s Fair; the more Richard thought about the idea, the more he liked it. Such a scheme would cost far more, of course, than he then had access to, but the World’s Fair was still three years away, so he had time to work on the finances. For the moment, Richard turned his attention to more immediate matters. He moved to Laguna Beach, brought his friend Paul Mooney out from Alexandria for companionship and assistance on the Book of Marvels, and turned at last to building a home for himself on the lot he had purchased three years earlier. The avant-garde structure, which Halliburton dubbed “Hangover House” due to its position on the ridge, took 15 months to build and cost $36,000 — characteristically, almost four times the original estimate. In October, Halliburton embarked on his 1936-37 lecture tour, leaving Mooney to com-

Halliburton poses in front of the Sea Dragon, under construction in 1938. This was one of the last photographs taken of the explorer. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY RICHARD HALLIBURTON ARCHIVES - RHODES COLLEGE

plete the first volume of the Book of Marvels. Mooney finished in March, but Richard had to rewrite it because it smacked too much of Mooney and not enough of Halliburton. When the first volume finally appeared, sales were tremendous and the critics, for once, were virtually unanimous in their praise. Richard turned over the second volume of the Book of Marvels to Bobbs-Merrill in June 1937.

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or the rest of the summer Halliburton concentrated his efforts on raising money for his upcoming ocean crossing. He was not very successful, and he was finally reduced to fundraising among his friend and relatives, supplementing this by mortgaging his new house, and in effect, persuading several wealthy young men to pay for the privilege of accompanying him on the adventure. Finally, on September 23, 1938, Halliburton boarded the President Coolidge bound for Hong Kong. After his arrival in Hong Kong, matters went quickly sour. The Sea Dragon, as Halliburton christened the outsized junk he had specially built for the voyage, was poorly designed and constructed, and as usual, it cost far more than he anticipated. In addition, the captain Halliburton had hired, one John Wenlock Welch, turned out to be, in Richard’s words, “a regular Captain Bligh.” On top of all this there was some question as to whether the Japanese, who had already

begun their aggressions in Asia, would allow the vessel to pass through their waters unmolested. Finally, however, the Sea Dragon sailed from Hong Kong on February 4, 1939, bound for San Francisco. Six days later she limped back into Hong Kong harbor for repairs and modifications. Two of Halliburton’s young patron-companions took advantage of the return to disassociate themselves permanently from the venture (as did Halliburton’s Phillipine cook), thereby saving their lives. The Sea Dragon put to sea gain on March 4th. It was last heard from, via radio, on March 23, 1939, encountering heavy weather near the International Dateline. Inevitably, Richard Halliburton changed as he grew older, and the change was reflected in his writing. His critics applauded it as the tardy but welcome onset of maturity; Richard saw it, at times, as the loss of his joie de vivre. He rightly perceived, late in his still young life, a more significant change — a change in the world around him. The appetite of the public for his special kind of fare was waning — his “unreasoned thrills” were becoming less and less “irresistible.” The twentieth century was approaching its forties; the world was no longer young. Richard Halliburton fulfilled in his lifetime what most of us only dream of in ours. In the process he brought a little adventure and excitement — and a little inspiration, perhaps — into a great many otherwise placid lives.’’ A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 35

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THE DIXON GALLERY AND GARDENS TEAMS WITH A JAPANESE MUSEUM TO PRESENT AN EXHIBITION THAT EXPLORES THE WORLD OF FRAGRANCE IN ART AND NATURE.

(=9 by anne cunningham o’neill

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o borrow from Robert Browning’s famous “Oh, to be in England now that April’s there,” it is equally wonderful to be in Memphis at this time of year. Capitalizing on our glorious season, The Dixon Gallery and Gardens is mounting a “scent-sational” exhibit, one which imaginatively marries antique perfume bottles in the museum and fragrant flowering plants in the garden. The exhibition will run from April 6th through July 2nd. “Scent and Symbolism: Perfumed Objects and Images” has been organized in collaboration with the Umi-Mori Art Museum in Hiroshima, Japan, and will reflect upon the role of scent in the history of art, through displaying a magnificent collection of 140 scent bottles, dating from the seventeenth through the twentieth centuries.

opposite page: Roger & Gallet Paquerettes – 1908 “Paquerettes” flacon Design by R. Lalique – 1913 Transparent glass Umi-Mori Art Museum

background flowers: Calycanthus ‘Venus’

Carolina allspice or Sweetshrub

Rhododendron canescens

Piedmont azalea

Ybry Femme De Paris – 1925 “Jerrican” flacon

Design by G. Chevalier – 1925 Purple crystal, enamel, gilt metal Umi-Mori Art Museum

This multidisciplinary exhibit will also feature paintings that will explore how the sense of smell has been described by painters through the ages with such works as Jean-Louis Forain’s Woman Breathing in Flowers and Henri Fantin-Latour’s still-life, Carnations without Vase. Also included are engravings by the great Pierre-Joseph Redouté and humorous lithographs by Honoré Daumier. The paintings and works on paper in the exhibit are both borrowed from other museums and galleries and taken from the Dixon’s own collection. Pieces from the Dixon’s antique porcelain collection

will also be featured. The garden component of the exhibit will provide a chance to experience the origin of perfume in some of its fragrant plants. The genesis of this exhibit goes back to the Dixon’s close relationship with Gilles Chazal, director of the Petit Palais in Paris, which led to the Jean-Louis Forain show in 2011 and the Bijoux Parisiens exhibit at the Dixon two years later. It so happens that Chazal’s wife, Martine, an internationally recognized decorative arts expert, has advised the Umi-Mori on its collection of perfume bottle masterpieces. Jean-Louis Forain French, 1852-1931 Woman Breathing in Flowers, 1883

Pastel on paper 35 x 31 inches Collection of The Dixon Gallery and Gardens, Museum purchase, 1987.2

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L. T. Piver Astris - 1908 “Carafon” flacon

Perfume Flacon with Ring Switzerland - ca. 1820 Gold, enamel, garnet Umi-Mori Art Museum

Design by Baccarat – 1912 Transparent crystal, gilt metal Umi-Mori Art Museum

Guerlain Coque D’Or – 1937 “Nœud Papillon” flacon

Design by R. Guerlain and J. M. Franck -1937 Blue crystal, gold Umi-Mori Art Museum

background flowers: Rhododendron austrinum native azalea

One thing led to another, and Kevin Sharp, director of The Dixon Gallery and Gardens, traveled to Japan and was excited and dazzled by the collection. He and the museum’s director, Michio Umemoto, got along famously — bonding over their favorite vintage American television shows — and plans for the Memphis exhibition were set in motion. Sharp found the experience of being in Hiroshima intensely moving. Mr. and Mrs. Umemoto as well as the Chazals will be in town for the opening of this particular exhibition. In the course of a roundtable interview for this article with Dale Skaggs, director of horticulture; Julie Pierotti, curator; and Chantal Drake, director of communications, Sharp pointed out that the experience of scent is one of humankind’s most powerful yet enigmatic senses. Vladimir Nabokov fa-

mously said, “Nothing revives the past so completely as a smell that was once associated with it.” To demonstrate this universal link, each of us weighed in with a favorite memory of scent. For Sharp, it was the smell of baking bread. For Pierotti and Drake, it was Avon’s Skin So Soft. For Skaggs, it was Bay Rum cologne. And for me, it was orange blossom perfume from Florida’s groves. Sharp explained that perfume-making in the eighteenth century was an endeavor undertaken by skilled artisans, and their products were only for the wealthy. Of course, modern perfume making is a most elaborate industry, although now it appears that artisan perfume makers are making quite the comeback, creating more natural perfumes touted in small, less synthetic batches. Consider the wildly popular scents of UK-based

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Jeff Koons Smooth Egg with Bow (Magenta/Violet), 1994–2009

Mirror-polished stainless steel with transparent color coating On loan from the Diane B. Wilsey Collection

fragrance designer and cosmetics superstar, Jo Malone, who began her career as a florist. Malone has created straightfrom-the-garden scents, using for example peony, woodsage, bluebell, freesia, mimosa, and lavender. Skaggs noted that in Hugo Dixon’s correspondence with his sister, Hope Crutchfield, when first creating his estate, it was agreed at the outset that “this garden should be a garden of fragrance.” With that in mind, it is clearly not an easy job to make the 17-acre garden bloom on cue, especially with the very mild winter we have had this year. As Skaggs says, “putting Mother Nature on our calendar is humbling,” and the museum faces a moving target when trying to ensure fragrance for all 12 weeks of the show. The good news, however, is that this olfactory kaleidoscope will hopefully keep people coming back to enjoy new garden experiences. There will be a discovery room for families to compare and contrast scents and aromas, as well as a full display outlining and informing visitors on extraction methods that are used to make perfume from plants. This Dixon exhibition is accompanied by a beautiful, full-color softcover catalogue, with contributions from Paris’ Martine Chazal, as well as from Kevin Sharp and Dale Skaggs. “Chazal does a great job of walking us through the history of perfume,” says Sharp. Interestingly, the evolution of fragrances usually reflects

periodic cultural shifts. For example, in the suffragette era, scents were muskier and more “manly,” while after World War II, they became more feminine. The perfume bottles on display themselves are so exquisite they will take your breath away. Visitors will see pomanders, flacons, atomizers, and vinaigrettes (ladies used these containers for aromatic substances to combat unpleasant city odors) artfully made through the ages of silver, enamel, porcelain, and glass. For example, the “boule” shape of Lanvin’s famous “Arpege” perfume bottle is familiar to many of us, and the exhibition includes many other whimsical and beautiful late-nineteenth and early-twentieth-century items from France during its Art Deco design heyday. These bottles are small works of art in and of themselves, from legendary makers such as Baccarat, Lalique, Daum, Gallé, and Fabergé, brilliant treasures created for perfumeries such as Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Boucheron, Coty, Houbigant, Caron, Guerlain, and Lubin. Says director Sharp: “This unique show is a complicated and rich experiment that blends the worlds of art and nature.” I should add that upon leaving The Dixon Gallery and Gardens after my visit, I was graciously presented with, of course, a fragrant arrangement of freesia, stock, and snapdragons from the Dixon’s gardens. All of which whetted my appetite for the upcoming “scent-illating” exhibition.

JEFF KOONS’EGGCELLENT ADVENTURE

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hile good things come in small packages in the forthcoming “Scent and Symbolism” exhibition, visitors to the Dixon this month can view something truly grand on the grounds of the Museum. Smooth Egg with Bow (Magenta/Violet) is an excellent example of the work of neo-pop sculptor Jeff Koons, arguably the most well-known living artist in the world. A Pennsylvania native, Koons still holds the record for the highest auction price achieved by a living artist, set in 2013 when his Balloon Dog (Orange) sold at Christie’s for $58.4 million. The current piece, on display at the Dixon until August 21st, is on loan from San Francisco collector Diane Wilsey, a close friend of the late John Buchanan, former director of the Dixon and later the director of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Happily, Wilsey has displayed with the Dixon before; hence, the museum’s good fortune in arranging for it to spend the spring and summer of 2017 here in Memphis. You won’t want to miss the opportunity to see this very special work from a very special sculptor! — Dwayne Butcher

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SPRING IS HERE — TIME TO DECLUTTER, ORGA NIZE, A ND DE -STRESS. by shara clark

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tacks of papers on the coffee table. Clutter

on the kitchen counter. Shoes in the hallway. Let’s not even mention the state of our closets. If

there’s space, we fill it. Maybe we don’t need three ice cream scoops in the kitchen drawer or seven jackets on the coat rack. As harmless as it may seem, all that stuff — if not organized in some meaningful fashion — can hinder our productivity and add unnecessary stress to our lives. And organizing goes beyond orderliness in terms of stuff; with busy schedules and hectic lives, adjustments to our routines and habits can save us time — no more looking for a misplaced cell phone or lost keys. If you’re seeking peace in a chaotic world, get organized.

“For every minute spent in organizing, an hour is earned.” — benjamin franklin

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“Organizing is a routine, and it’s an evoluchronic disorganization and hoarding. tion based on where you are and what you Jones, a mother of two teenage boys, works have,” says JoAnn Jones, president of the primarily with families, helping to organize Memphis chapter of the National Association spaces that tend to get a little messy, like of Professional Organizers (NAPO). Jones mudrooms, kitchens, garages, and closets. became involved with NAPO in 2009 and has Prior to her work as a professional organizer, worked with a variety of clients — professors, Jones worked in international marketing and doctors, professional chefs, homemakers. As training for hospitals. “I found that I had to a professional organizer, Jones assesses how be very organized with my scheduling and her clients live, what works and what doesn’t coordination of things,” she says. “I’ve always work for their lifestyle, to help them make been inclined to do that, to have everything better sense of their schedules, spaces, and prepared ahead of time, so it was an easy stuff. transition.” Carey Snider, a homemaker and mother of “There is not a simple cookbook recipe,” Jones says. As you grow and your dynamics three children — 12, 10, and 8 years old — change, so does the way you organize. “You hired Jones at the suggestion of her decoramight have previously taken up tors when she moved into a new As you grow and a bunch of space for baby diahome, a new build with more pers and now you can use that space than her previous house. your dynamics “I wanted her to help me make space for putting your towels change, so does the back in the linen closet. Or as sense of the space — especially you get older, you might have the kitchen and my master closway you organize. different needs — you may et,” Snider says. need more space for medicines, so you have Simple adjustments in the kitchen, like to repurpose areas where you had something storing the silverware near the dishwasher, else stored. You may be an empty-nester and the coffee mugs — lined neatly, single-file now have more space for the figurines or with all handles facing the same way — near artwork you’d always wanted.” the coffee maker, and serving dishes that aren’t used as often higher and out of the way, NAPO is an educational association whose members include organizing consultants, helped Snider establish sensible storage soluspeakers, trainers, authors, and manufacturtions for her kitchenware and tools, and a ers of organizing products. Local chapter formula that the kids could stick with, too. Dishes her children use often were placed members offer organization services ranging from residential and business to bookkeeping in a custom-built drawer in a lower cabinet and downsizing and moving and staging to so they’d be easily accessible. Spatulas and

ORGA NIZING TIPS Courtesy of Sarah Lewis, NAPO Memphis member organizedbysarah.com Prioritize items on your to-do list. This way the list is not so overwhelming. Use “A” for the items that have to be done today, “B” for the things you should do today, and “C” for the tasks you hope to do.

bake. Store the sponge in a suction cup in the sink. Store coffee in a canister next to the coffee pot. One of the best ways to tackle the daily mail is to create an incoming mail area. Open all mail as it comes in. Throw away junk mail and envelopes right away. Sort your mail as you open it and put the papers into bins based on what you need to do next: pay, file, use, attend, and read.

Spend 10 minutes at the end of your day planning and making tomorrow’s to-do list.

Sort the clothes in your closet by item and color. This will make it easier to get dressed and keep you from buying duplicates.

In each room of your house, store things where you use them. This is especially important in the kitchen. Store your baking supplies where you

Make laundry day easier by using separate laundry baskets to hold clothes for separate loads. Sort based on how you do your wash: by

UNORGA NIZED A MER ICA Redbook magazine polled 1,000 subscribers in a 2016 survey. In “The Truth About Organized Women,” results showed that: 8 out of 10 women consider themselves to be organized, yet 72 percent still spend at least 8 minutes and up to 20 looking for misplaced things every day. The top three types of clutter they have? Junk drawer: 67% Overstuffed closet: 46% Piles of paper: 45% And 30% admitted to having a room just for stuff that has no spot. Being disorganized has caused… 45% of respondents to be late paying a bill 29% to miss a doctor’s appointment 10% to miss a social engagement 3% to miss an important work meeting

color, by type, or by family member. Keep your shoes organized. Keep the shoes that are worn most frequently accessible on lower shelves. Store less-frequently worn shoes in protective clear shoe boxes so they’re out of the way yet easy to spot when you need them. Tape a photo of the shoes to the outside of the box so you can quickly spot them. Switch your shoes between summer and winter to save space. Label bins of children’s toys with picture labels. Young kids who can’t read yet can help with the cleanup. In the kitchen, only keep necessary items that you use daily (coffee maker, can opener, utensil basket, etc.) out on your countertop.

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BEFOR E In a 2015 Moen Clutter Zones Research Study: Nearly 20 percent of respondents considered organization a very low priority. And in total, this indifference was classified as the most annoying organizational habit of others by those who think of themselves as the household’s “organizer.”

A F TER A study conducted by Brian Wansink, director of Cornell University’s Food and Brand Lab, and published in USA Today in 2014 (“9 ways to lose weight by rearranging your kitchen”) showed: Cluttered kitchens prompted people to eat 44% more of their snack food than a kitchen that was organized and decluttered. This means putting away things such as the toaster, cutting board, and knives. “Where a more organized kitchen may prompt selfcontrol, a disorganized one does the opposite,” Wansink said.

A Huffington Post poll conducted in 2013 (for “Home Organization Is Major Source Of Stress For Americans, Survey Finds”) showed that: 91% of Americans reported being stressed recently and 84% of them worried that their home was not clean or organized enough. *source: napo.net

mixing spoons were stored on their sides. Instead of the usual square fold and stack, “It’s really a way to use the space wisely; it’s “she folded it over one more time to where almost like you’re filing them, instead of just it was like a rectangle and then turned it throwing them all in,” Snider says. on its side. It was almost like my T-shirts In the Snider family’s three-car garage, were filed.” This folding and “filing” method, where a mess of basketballs, footballs, bicywhich Jones calls “bread slice shirt folding,” cles, and scooters had taken up a lot of floor allows for easy visibility of logos and designs space, Jones helped her design blueprints and maximizes drawer space. “The great thing about it, too, was I could for a wall-mounted gear track system for these items to be hung up and take what I learned from Jones “wrote up what I stored, taking advantage of her and go do it in my kids’ the garage’s vertical spaces. rooms,” Snider says. Now would need in order to “She laid out on graph paper that she’s settled into her new get everything on the a spot for every single thing,” home, everything is neat and Snider says. “She wrote up walls and off the middle tidy; everything has its place. what I would need in order “Sometimes you just need an of the garage floor.” to get everything on the walls outsider to help you along and off the middle of the garage floor. I orand then it sticks with you. Of course I’ve dered everything myself, and when the cargot to keep it that way, but now I know how penters came, I gave them the drawing.” to do it.” For Snider’s closet, she was shown better “When you cohabitate with others, things ways to store shoes, T-shirts, and accessories. aren’t always going to be put back in the Jones suggested storage cubes for shoes and same spot,” Jones says. “It’s about trying to clear, labeled Tupperwares for belts, hats, and create a habit and managing expectations. If small purses. An especially smart idea, Snideverybody knows that the dishes are going to er says, was the way Jones folded T-shirts. be in either the drawer or the cabinet, that’s A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 43

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E V ERY THING IN ITS R IGHT PL ACE These products can help you de-clutter and get organized. Vertical file holders. Take advantage of the vertical spaces in your home with vertical file holders. These come in a variety of styles — standup, wall-mounted, or over-the-door — and can work wonders for storing paperwork or magazines and are especially helpful for sorting mail. Keep bills, homework, and catalogues in a designated space — and off of the countertop! Peg boards. These multi-function boards can help with storing and displaying jewelry; with an open view of your collection, you won’t forget to wear that stylish necklace you had tucked away in a jewelry box for ages. Peg boards also work for hanging scarves and bags and can be painted or decorated with wallpaper to add a splash of color wherever they’re used. Hang a peg board in the garage for easy organization of tools.

Hooks. Another way to make the most of your vertical space is with hooks. Use stick-on hooks for lightweight items or decorative hooks for a more elegant feel. These can be used to hang jewelry, scarves, bags, and more. Boxes. Small boxes can help with organizing drawers. Place several inside of a kitchen drawer to organize gadgets and tools or inside a desk to keep pens, paperclips, and other necessary items in a neat space. Shoe boxes can even be used to tidy a nest of media cords; just put the cords inside and poke holes in the box to thread them through. Bins. A go-to storage item, bins can be used in just about any room of the house. Use them in the closet to store out-of-season clothes or shoes until you need them or in the garage to put away extension cords and car-washing accessories. Stackable and often see-through, these can be put out of the way and still be easily accessible when you need what’s inside. Baskets. Baskets are both attractive and useful. Use them as decorative storage options in the living room for magazines, media accessories, or pet toys. In the kitchen or pan-

try, baskets can be used to hold utensils, napkins, fruit, ingredients, and more. Cubbies. Especially useful in a mudroom or children’s area, cubbies can be used to store shoes, jackets, toys, and more. These can be left as open storage spaces or used with baskets or bins inside to mask the cubby’s contents. Lazy Susans. Always in fashion and available in a variety of styles, Lazy Susans can be used on the counter, in the fridge, or in a cabinet to store fruit, seasonings, snacks, canned items, oils, and more. Use one in the bathroom to store makeup and toiletries, rather than having those items spread across the countertop. Repurposed household items. Don’t know what to do with the oddly shaped pottery mug your kid made at school? Use it to store pens, pencils, or scissors on a countertop or desk. Have a teacup or decorative dish passed down from grandma? Get it out of the cabinet and use it to hold jewelry or other small items. Lots of household items can be used for storage or organization; don’t let them sit around collecting dust — find a creative way to repurpose them.

where they’re going to go to look for it; that’s become a dumping ground for shoes, coats, where they’re going to go to put it up. It’s just and athletic equipment, it can help to estabestablishing routines.” lish habits of clearing out that area often, It’s also about realizing what works best for only keeping necessary items near the door your lifestyle. How do you work in the kitchin order to save time — and minimize stress en? What’s the best way for you to manage — when readying to leave the house. “If your paperwork? Do you write out to-do lists? everybody chips in — and I think it’s good “People process things to start kids with this “Sometimes you just need differently,” says Jones. “My habit, too — then it’s not job is to learn how people an outsider to help you along chaotic in the morning,” process things and come Jones says. “If everything and then it sticks with you. you need for tomorrow is up with systems and soluOf course I’ve got to keep it tions for that person, for already there, you’re not that family. scrambling right before that way, but now I know “Say you’re working with you walk out the door to how to do it.” an artist, so they’re going find it.” to have a lot of things out and they’re very If too much stuff, say in a closet, is an isvisual. They might have things piled up, and sue, Jones suggests putting similar things you don’t want to go in and say, ‘All right, together to assess what’s actually needed. everything off this table.’ Because that’s not When working with clients, “I bring a hang how they work.” rack, so that we can get things out, make If you’ve got a full house, you might benmore space, and readily see everything,” she says. “If they have eight pairs of black pants, efit from a few small routine changes. If the home’s entryway, the mudroom, has we pick maybe the top three that fit them the 44 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • A P R I L 2 0 1 7

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best, that don’t look as worn, and are more of a current style. “If you’re not using something or you’re not sure and you want to test yourself and see how much you’re using some things, like those pants, there are some tricks you can do,” says Jones. “You can hang the clothes backwards so that you have to push the hanger back toward the wall and pull it toward you, and then if you notice after a month there are several things that have not even been utilized, that might help you

HELP!

Need a little direction in your journey to getting organized? Members of the local chapter of the National Association of Professional Organizers are here to help. Fran Cutshall Stay Organized With Us fran@stayorganizedwithus.com 901-651-0157 stayorganizedwithus.com Specialties: ◗◗ Document/paper management ◗◗ Moving/relocation ◗◗ Work with seniors ◗◗ Product spokesperson ◗◗ Residential organizing Karen Eskin ISP, MBA, CPO The Organized Advantage My Perfect Party LLC - founding partner organizedadvantage@comcast.net 901-351-2161 myperfectparty.com Specialties: ◗◗ Residential organizing ◗◗ Children/students ◗◗ Business organizing ◗◗ Home staging ◗◗ Relocation Jennifer Gammill Organize Today Memphis organizetodaymemphis@gmail.com 901-301-9672 organizetodaymemphis.com Specialties: ◗◗ Financial/bookkeeping ◗◗ Offices: home, small business, corp. ◗◗ Residential organizing ◗◗ Work with children ◗◗ Work with seniors

Jewell Gatewood Out of the Chaos Creative Organizers
 Jgatewood@outofthechaos.com 901-258-9411 outofthechaos.com Specialties: ◗◗ Residential/business organizing ◗◗ Moving/relocation ◗◗ Staging ◗◗ Chronically disorganized ◗◗ Seniors (downsizing) Teresa James, CPO, ASP Organize and Stage Your Home ADD/ADHD Specialist teresa@oasyh.com 901-229-4570 organizeandstageyourhome.com Specialties: ◗◗ Residential organizing ◗◗ Kitchens/closets/pantries ◗◗ Paper management and offices ◗◗ Downsizing/moving/relocating ◗◗ Business organizing JoAnn Jones Simple Organizing Solutions joannjones63@comcast.net 901-292-7607 Specialties: ◗◗ Residential organizing ◗◗ Kitchen/closet/pantry design ◗◗ Home offices ◗◗ Wardrobe consulting ◗◗ Moving/relocation Sarah Lewis Organized By Sarah organizedbysarah@bellsouth.net 901-359-5173 organizedbysarah.com Specialties: ◗◗ Residential organizing ◗◗ Families with children/students ◗◗ Offices/filing/computers ◗◗ Small business organizing ◗◗ Kitchens/closets/pantries

Special thanks to JoAnn Jones for contributing photographs to this story.

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in your purge process.” While the benefits of organizing are many, with regard to time-saving, efficiency, orderliness, and de-stressing, Jones says it’s also satisfying for her to be able to help people reach their organizational goals. “When you’re done and you take a photo and everyone is smiling, it’s very rewarding,” she says. “Sometimes I get follow-up calls saying, ‘It was such a relaxing morning today; no one was scrambling. It was such a nice change, and we even had time to spare.’’’ Paula Nichter Down Home Organizing paula@downhomeorganizing.com 901-602-6642 downhomeorganizing.com Specialties: ◗◗ Residential organizing ◗◗ Moving/relocation ◗◗ Storage spaces (garage, attic, closets, pantries, etc.) ◗◗ Space planning ◗◗ Paper management Sandy Stone Want It Organized sandy@wantitorganized.com 662-601-8515 wantitorganized.com Specialties: ◗◗ Kitchen design/organize ◗◗ Residential organizing ◗◗ Time management/goal setting ◗◗ Offices: home, small business, corp. ◗◗ Wardrobe consulting Amy Tuggle Stay Organized With Us amy@stayorganizedwithus.com 901-651-0432 stayorganizedwithus.com Specialties: ◗◗ Document/paper management ◗◗ Moving/relocation ◗◗ Work with seniors ◗◗ Product spokesperson ◗◗ Residential organizing Sandy Wright, CPO, CPO-CD WrightEdge Solutions wesolutions@comcast.net 901-647-3343 wrightedgesolutions.com Specialties: ◗◗ Residential/business organizing ◗◗ Chronic disorganization/hoarding specialist ◗◗ Time/paper management ◗◗ ADD/ADHD coaching ◗◗ Speaking A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 45

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FINE

Feathered FRIENDS

As the Memphis Redbirds glide into their 20th season, a look at the hits — and the misses — and what’s to come.

M

by frank murtaugh

emphis Redbirds history began with a flashback. The first man to step into the batter’s box for the home team on April 16, 1998, at Tim McCarver Stadium was speedster Vince Coleman.

While the game marked the return of Triple-A baseball to Memphis, this was no minor-league player. The 36-year-old outfielder had starred for the St. Louis Cardinals — the Redbirds’ parent club — in the 1980s and was hoping a Memphis audition would earn him a return ticket to Busch Stadium. Coleman singled, stole second base (of course), and scored what proved to be the only run in a Memphis win over Colorado Springs. Alas, he would play only 19 more games for the Redbirds, preferring retirement when it became clear he wasn’t in the Cardinals’ plans. (As the story is told, Coleman got off the team flight at the Phoenix airport and simply walked away for good.)

Fast forward to 2017 as the Memphis Redbirds open their 20th season, their 18th at what’s long been described as “the finest stadium below the major leagues,” AutoZone Park. Hundreds of batters have stepped to the plate since Vince Coleman, many of them playing at the highest level their skills would allow. A few have gone on to stardom with the Cardinals or other major-league teams: Albert Pujols, Yadier Molina, Adam Wainwright, and David Freese to name just four. The ballpark at B.B. King and Union Avenue has seen packed houses (887,976 fans bought tickets during the 2001 season) and nights when empty green seats far outnumbered the small gathering of supporters (merely 278,579 tickets were sold in 2015). On one hand, the Redbirds can be said to

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Current Redbirds president Craig Unger (left) and original president Allie Prescott. PORTRAIT BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

have sparked a renaissance both in the development of downtown Memphis and in the Bluff City sports culture. Would an arena on Beale Street now currently house an NBA franchise had AutoZone Park not been a success? Local insiders who were involved in the Grizzlies move from Vancouver in 2001 will tell you no, adding that the team ownership group had been blown away by what the Redbirds had done with that ballpark. On the other hand, the Redbirds now have played nearly two decades in a stadium that over-reached in terms of both physical size and hefty pricetag. Built at a cost of $80 million, the stadium more than doubled the previous record for the price of minor-league ballparks. Original leases on the stadium’s 47 luxury suites — an astounding number A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 47

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for a minor-league facility — expired after the 2014 season, and many remained vacant through 2016. But you can now find a pair of gathering venues on the club level, two grass-seating areas, “four-top” tables that bring food and drink with the price of a ticket, and a video board that dwarfs the stadium’s original scoreboard. Plans are in place as well for an urban garden. In other words, the Redbirds have grown. With all the stumbles, transformations (check out the new music-themed uniform design), and celebrations (two Pacific Coast League championships) that one might expect of a baseball franchise’s first two decades.

decision to build the new stadium downtown. Two decades later, the ballpark seems to fit like a jewel in its crown, but in the late Nineties, many felt eastern Shelby County made more sense. “We were convinced a ballpark would flourish out east,” says Prescott. “The population was growing and Triple-A baseball would be a big hit. But New Orleans had built a Triple-A park in [suburban] Metairie, and ten years after it was built, nothing had happened around the stadium. So Dean started acquiring some property around the [downtown] location. Third and Union was the right place for it.” Prescott managed to sell 15-year leases for all 47 of those suites, half of them before brick met mortar on the new ballpark. “It was a leap ou could say Allie Prescott of faith,” he says today. “Triple-A baseball, is the original Memphis Redbird. Two affiliation with the St. Louis Cardinals, and years before Vince Coleman stepped to the greatest stadium that’s ever been built the plate for Memphis, Prescott — a pitching below the major leagues. This was our major star during his college days at the University leagues. The NFL drives had failed. There of Memphis — answered a call to the bullwas no conversation about the NBA yet. And pen from longtime friend Dean Jernigan. we were eliminating blight on a major corThe Storage USA founder had lured a Triner of downtown.” A local architecture firm, ple-A franchise to Memphis (thanks to Major Looney Ricks Kiss, collaborated with HOK, a League Baseball expanding by two teams) prominent national design firm that specializand needed a baseball man to run the busies in sports facilities, to bring a modern field of dreams to life. ness. Prescott was, at the time, director of the Metropolitan Inter-Faith AsThe Redbirds’ final two “There’s still a love seasons at Tim McCarver sociation (MIFA), but he had served four years (1979-82) as for baseball and a love Stadium (at the Mid-South Fairgrounds) were memorageneral manager of the Doufor this facility. Really, ble-A Memphis Chicks. His ble in their own right. Having it’s a love for what task: sell a Triple-A team and drawn 113,183 fans to see the a stadium with luxury suites Chicks during their lamedowntown Memphis to a community that had seen duck 1997 season (before the has become over the neither. franchise moved east to Jack“It was fortuitous that the son, Tennessee), the ballpark past 20 years.” Cardinals’ player-development drew 395,592 to see the likes of — Craig Unger contract [with Louisville] was Coleman and J.D. Drew — the expiring [after the 1997 season],” says Prescott, franchise’s first star prospect — in 1998. And today a senior vice president at Waddell & in 1999, a single player — like Allie Prescott, Associates. “Dean and I went to St. Louis a right-handed pitcher — made nights at and sat down with the ownership group and “Timmy Mac” extraordinary. [general manager] Walt Jocketty, and told “I never got to sit next to Bob Gibson or Sandy Koufax,” ref lects Prescott, “but them how passionate Memphis was about the Cardinals. This would be a perfect fit.” Rick Ankiel was special.” The 20-year-old Prescott credits Jernigan entirely with the flame-thrower struck out 119 hitters in 88

Y

innings for the Redbirds and earned Minor League Player of the Year honors from Baseball America. Afflicted with anxiety, which he now admits led to his drinking before his starts, Ankiel lost the ability to throw strikes in the 2000 postseason for St. Louis. Reinventing himself as an outfielder, he hit 32 home runs for the 2007 Redbirds before being promoted once more to the big-league club.

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he Redbirds’ inaugural season at AutoZone Park opened on April Fool’s Day in 2000 with an exhibition game between Memphis and the Cardinals. An estimated 15,000 fans packed into the stadium to see back-flipping second baseman Stubby Clapp take on Mark McGwire’s club. (The since-tarnished home run king was unable to play with a back injury.) The “baby birds” won that game and continued to fly throughout the season, winning the Pacific Coast League championship on a walk-off home run by a relatively unknown outfielder named Albert Pujols. Since circling the bases that September night 17 years ago, Pujols has won a pair of World Series with the Cardinals, three MVP trophies, and enters the 2017 season with 591 career home runs. A single red seat remains on AutoZone Park’s rightfield bluff where that championship baseball landed. Prescott left the club after the 2001 season to start a consulting firm, Dean and Kristi Jernigan moved to London in 2002, and in 2003 Dave Chase began a seven-year run as team president, one that saw a steady decline in the franchise’s business model. The debt obligation — three annual payments of $1.7 million each — steadily eroded the Redbirds’ bottom line, turning what shortly before was a civic celebration into a cost-cutting game of musical chairs. “The vision the Jernigans had was mind-blowing,” says Chase, now living in New York State and the president of Chase Baseball Consultants. “All of us had ideas about limiting the capacity to create more demand for tickets, and Dean vetoed all of those things. Minor League Baseball created that,

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to some degree, because they established a 10,000-seat minimum for Triple-A stadiums.” The arrival of the NBA’s Grizzlies in 2001 changed the Memphis sports landscape dramatically, and particularly had an adverse impact upon the Redbirds’ business. “On Day One [of the Grizzlies’ arrival],” says Chase, “the Redbirds lost over $1 million from sponsors that left minor-league baseball to go to the NBA.” When the likes of Kroger and Wendy’s are no longer financial partners, revenue streams don’t just slow down. They dry up. The Memphis media moved right along with the sponsors lining up to support the Griz. “All of a sudden, we weren’t a sports story,” says Chase. “People wanted to cover the NBA. I understand that, but we never regained traction.” The financial crisis hit rock bottom in March 2009 when the Redbirds missed their bond payment for the first time. (The year did have an upside, as Memphis won its second PCL championship.) In 2010, Fundamental Advisors, a private equity firm based in New York, bought $58 million in debt on the stadium for less than 50 cents on the dollar. The franchise continued to tread water and cut costs under Global Spectrum, a facilities management firm based in Philadelphia. By the 2012 season, total attendance had dropped to 493,706, actually a high figure when you consider how dreadful the team was on the field (57-87). To the rescue, it seemed, came the parent St. Louis Cardinals. In a deal announced after the 2013 season, the Cardinals agreed to buy their Triple-A franchise from Fundamental Advisors at a significant discount on the original amount of the bonds. As part of the deal, the City of Memphis would take ownership of AutoZone Park, and the business of Redbirds baseball would begin anew. The Cardinals ownership stake lasted two seasons. Before Opening Day in 2016, Peter Freund purchased the Redbirds from the big-league club. The president of Trinity Baseball Holdings and a minority owner of the New York Yankees, Freund also owns the

Charleston RiverDogs and the Williamsport Crosscutters, both Class-A franchises. Under the leadership of Freund and Craig Unger — a former member of the Cardinals’ front office and the Redbirds’ president since 2014 — AutoZone Park has been dramatically renovated. Instead of a single large grassy seating area beyond leftfield, there are a pair of smaller “bluffs” near each foul pole, eliminating thousands of seats that were unoccupied for most games. The stadium’s second level now has two bars (the Home Plate Club and the Redbird Club) and two open-air party decks. The third level includes executive offices and, soon, a patio garden that will literally help feed the community. There are now “only” 29 suites in the stadium and seating capacity has been reduced to 8,404. “We came in at a very interesting time,” says Unger, reflecting on his first three years at the helm. “We were at the end — we hoped — of what were some bleak years. We knew it would be a long-term project. We found that when we showed the love of wanting to do more, and be more, and bring this stadium to a new period of glory, people responded. There’s still a love for baseball and a love for this facility. Really, it’s a love for what downtown Memphis has become over the past 20 years. The brand equity the Redbirds have here was huge.” Even with rising prospects like Stephen Piscotty and Randal Grichuk (now starting oufielders in St. Louis) on the field, attendance bottomed out at 278,579 for the 2015 season before increasing 17 percent in 2016. Tuesdays in April will always be a tough sell in minor-league baseball, but Unger and his staff are exploring ways to make the big nights — Saturday-night fireworks and such — bigger, while building on possibilities, even when the team is on a road trip. “The biggest challenge is being patient in our long-term goals,” says Unger. “We have a rolling five-year plan. There are adjustments we make along the way. How are we getting there? How do we capitalize off the summer months? We have great indoor space. How do we make the most out of 12 months?”

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hether or not the Redbirds are in town, AutoZone Park will have new life on a 4,000-squarefoot patio that to date has seen very little. A vegetable garden will be unveiled this spring on the west side of the stadium’s third level. The Redbirds’ grounds crew will monitor, manage, and cultivate fresh vegetables, to be donated to local communities in need. “We’re working with Miracle-Gro on an urban garden,” explains Unger. “It will be an educational space. It’s an opportunity for us to activate an area that has never been used. We’ll have brochures about what we’re growing. Even in the concrete jungle of downtown Memphis, we can connect with the community by providing food.” In January, the Redbirds unveiled the most dramatic uniform and logo changes in franchise history. Gone are the birds on the bat made so familiar by the parent club in St. Louis. Jerseys will now feature letters and numbers that suggest the lights of Beale Street. The “M” on hats and jerseys now includes a pair of music notes (not unlike the logo of the Memphis Blues in the 1970s). “We needed something that speaks to Memphis,” says Unger. “Something true to the Redbirds brand, but connects better with the city, ties into Beale Street. There was a conversation — not very long — about the Redbirds name. We knew what it meant to the community. While this is Cardinals country, we have a lot of people who are fans of other [teams]. For a Braves, Cubs, or Rangers fan, those birds on the bat meant Cardinals. Now, it’s Memphis first.” In March, the Redbirds announced the return of Rendezvous barbecue — distinctly Memphis — to the ballpark. Quite the opposite of rebranding, the Redbirds have brought back Stubby Clapp to manage the team. A modern folk hero during his playing days in Memphis (19992002), Clapp spent the last 14 years making various stops as a player and coach, most recently with the Toronto Blue Jays’ Double-A affiliate in New Hampshire. Clapp — back in Memphis — may be the rare minor-league manager who actually boosts atA P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 49

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Lauren Harkins Wiuff (901) 682-1868 (901) 859-3565 www.laurenharkinswiuff.com

tendance. “He understands the connection required between a team and its community for success,” says Unger. “He lived it when he was here. He understands what baseball meant to this community 20 years ago, and what it can be for the future.” The Redbirds haven’t forgotten that baseball is a child’s game. Throughout the front-office turmoil, the franchise has maintained its outreach program, RBI (Returning Baseball to the Inner-city). More than 1,000 kids in 12 local communities receive coaching and equipment each summer, courtesy of a baseball franchise determined to breathe new life into what was once considered the national pastime.

Spring Sale! The Redbirds have embraced Memphis music heritage with their new uniform design, while retaining a connection to the parent St. Louis Cardinals.

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“It was Dean’s idea,” says Prescott, “to operate a franchise — for the first time ever — as a not-for-profit. Dean and I grew up in public schools, playing baseball. Dean at Messick High school, me at Kingsbury. Baseball was a great learning experience; it helped mold us into who we are. It was sad to see that baseball had been eliminated from public schools at the middle-school level. Dean wanted to pour the profits back into the community and in a way that might bring baseball back.” Only five Triple-A franchises have been affiliated with their big-league club longer than the Memphis Redbirds and St. Louis. Two decades is a lengthy marriage on a baseball diamond. The marriage has endured its share of conf licts, financial woes, and all-too-lonely nights. Former baseball commissioner Bart Giamatti eloquently described baseball as a game “designed to break your heart.” But for the Redbirds — from Allie Prescott to Craig Unger, from Albert Pujols to Stubby Clapp — a two-decade foundation has been established, one with considerable hope for the days ahead. More from that famous Giamatti passage: “You count on [baseball], rely on it to buffer the passage of time, to keep the memory of sunshine and high skies alive.”

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3/21/17 10:04 AM


A MEETING OF MYTHOLWOGIES

A

TING E E M

OF MYTHOLO

GIE

S

BOR N IN 1966 IN OR A NGE C OUN T Y, CALIFORNIA, GUITARIST AND SINGER

WAS A BUDDING SUPERSTAR,WORKING OUT OF NEW YORK CITY IN THE 1990S. HE DIED IN THIS CITY 20 YEARS AGO, I N M AY 19 9 7. H E WA S 3 0 . T HI S I S HI S MEMPHI S S T OR Y.

(=9 by danielle costello

I

n the fall of 1997, I spent an evening with my older brother traversing New York City’s Lower East Side, searching for the spirit of Jeff Buckley. Our intended altar was Sin-é, a tiny bar-cum-performance space that was once a muse to the late singer with the unforgettable falsetto and a knack for colorful asides. A few wrong turns instead landed us in the right place, called 2A, where a Buckley intimate was keeping bar. Tom the bartender and my brother stayed in deep conversation while the hours and customers fell away. Nine years later, my brother and I found ourselves face to face with another Buckley intimate: Midtown Memphis. I was new in town, moving into a guesthouse a few blocks from Rembert where Buckley had lived in the spring of 1997 while working on a follow-up to his first (and wildly successful) 1994 album release, Grace.

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In the music world, Jeff Buckley had all the right stuff for stardom: a critically acclaimed album, respect from industry insiders, heartthrob looks, and mystique. The industry first took notice when he stunned the audience with his unforgettable vocal chops at a tribute concert for his folk-singer father, Tim Buckley, who abandoned him early in life and died of a drug overdose two months after their first meeting. Jeff Buckley left a mark on Memphis that has been somewhat tainted by media accounts of the evening of May 29, 1997, when he drowned after wading into the Memphis harbor for a late-night swim. But today, nearly 20 years after his death, recollections from friends and acquaintances show that his time in Memphis was more than just a tragic ending. It was about an artist and a friend living life authentically in a city that knows more than a bit about music. And lots about tragedy.

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Jeff Buckley in a test photo at Barristers in 1997. A full photo shoot with photographer Dan Ball had been scheduled for two days after Buckley’s death.

Buckley would land in Memphis again, this time with a big crowd at the New Daisy Theatre on Beale Street. Thanks to major-label backing — Grace, his first studio album, was making the rounds on radio stations across the country — he was quickly gaining celebrity, touring the world and capturing admirers with a vocal presence as commanding as the Mississippi River iteslf. University of Memphis sophomore Emily Helming was in the front row at the Daisy that night, having been a fan since discovering Buckley on the radio in her home state of Oregon. With one last beer for courage, she decided to find her way to the tour bus to thank the man whose live performance had blown her away. “That’s a great thing about Memphis — you can get up close with people you couldn’t elsewhere,” Helming remembered on a call between my home in West Virginia and hers in New York City. It’s true. During my five years in Memphis, I played taxi driver for Tommy Ramone; shared a table at Wild Bill’s with Samuel L. Jackson; made small talk with Luke Perry in the lunch line; and told Kate Beckinsale that, yes, she could give my dog a piece of chicken. Memphis has time and space for characters, not celebrities. It’s an endearing indifference. As for getting that chance to extend flattery to Jeff Buckley, Emily Helming got a dose of character instead. While she talked with his bandmates near the bus, he descended its steps and addressed her without saying hello. “You’re the vanilla girl. I smelled you on stage.” As quickly as he interrupted the conversation, Buckley walked away. He wasn’t rude, Helming pointed out. He was just there and gone. Doing what came naturally. Unbeknownst to Buckley, he was channeling the city of Memphis itself.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN BALL

As described in the book 1,000 Recordings to Hear Before You Die: A Listener’s Life List, “Buckley struck some admirers as a rock god a lá those of the mystical late 1960s, a singer forever in search of unattainable ecstasy. At the same time, he could sound like a tortured Sylvia Plath type, desperate to convey a particular depth of feeling. He could wail like an opera singer nearing the big final scene, and create extemporaneous themes like a jazz player.”

J

eff Buckley’s first Memphis moment wasn’t even in Tennessee; it was in Iowa, fall of 1994, where his band headlined a show with Memphis indie hard rockers, the Grifters. Neither group had ever heard of the other, but proximity and pre-show beers would signify the beginning of a friendship. Although affinity among touring bands isn’t uncommon, this relationship began with a typical mutual creative admiration that grew into real-life affection, the latter poignantly summed up by Grifters bassist Tripp Lamkins’ recent comment: “I miss him all the time.” At the end of that fall 1994 tour, the Grifters would reunite with Buckley at the former South End downtown. Still largely an unknown, the singer drew a small crowd, mostly due to the Grifters’ efforts to rally support for their new friend. The following year,

Before moving to Memphis, Buckley played his first local gig at the New Daisy Theatre in April 1995. PHOTO BY JENNIFER REAGER

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Rolling Stone magazine named Buckley’s Grace number 303 of the “500 Greatest Albums of All Time,” saying, “Buckley had a voice like an oversexed angel, and the songs here shimmer and twist. The fierce rocker ‘Eternal Life’ up-ends Led Zeppelin’s take on the blues while honoring it: Instead of a hellhound on his trail, Buckley, who drowned in 1997, evokes immortality bearing down on him.” He was also listed as number 39 among the magazine’s “100 Greatest Singers of All Time.”

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ike Jeff Buckley, I had a small taste of Memphis before making it my home, in the form of a weekend trip with a friend. Not long after we exited Sam Cooper, my preconceived ideas and reality collided, and kept at it for the entire weekend. It was the slow drip of Midtown, not the gush of Beale. It was accents whose velocity left Southern drawl in the dust. It was a barista who offered us tofu pie instead of pecan in a quiet Midtown district kept barely alive, not by the smell of barbecue and the sound of live music, but by a bead shop, a bike shop, and a pizza joint called a café. Unlike New York City or Los Angeles, Memphis doesn’t deliver. It will leave you underwhelmed — and wanting more. When I made Memphis home in 2006, I learned the complicated life cycle of Overton Square and discovered big rocks at Mud Island that would allow me closer to the river. I found

theater in fast-talking coffee shop characters and had love affairs with pimento cheese sandwiches. I learned that everyone, and everywhere, in Midtown has a story — not least the well-known panhandlers whose yarns, though not entirely inspiring, get credit for effort beyond, “Spare some change?” I learned that Memphis doesn’t have change to spare. Decades of strife — yellow fever, deaths of American icons, racial discord, economic despair, and violent crime — had given way to trickling evolution, Memphis-style. Here, growth happens “only in ways that make sense,” says one of the city’s brightest offerings, producer-director Morgan Jon Fox. Fox’s career could easily take him to New York or Los Angeles, yet leaving hasn’t been on his radar because he sees Memphis as “a place where soul seeps from the cracks in the concrete and overgrown parking lots. Here in Memphis, we have a community. We pride ourselves on the grit and grind attitude of us against the world. There’s nothing clean and safe about the art that’s made here.” Fox’s sentiments are echoed by another Memphis success story, writer-director-producer Robert Gordon, who literally wrote the book on creative culture in his hometown, It Came From Memphis: “You can come here and be a star or amount to nothing; either way it’ll have no impact on the greater community.” “Memphis allows you a great freedom,” says Gordon. “You don’t encounter a world of agents and publicists and managers — there’s not that pressure. The expectations, in fact, are low. The edge where artists live here is wide. You work at your own

The Grifters PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN BALL

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pace, you develop in public as much as you want, then you take it somewhere to sell — either in a van with a guitar, or to one of the cities of industry, or from your bedroom to the internet. We are a city for creatives.”

In the same way Buckley’s vocal stylings varied, so too did his guitar playing. Through the years, his style ranged from reggae and funk to rock and grunge, from jazz and country to the guitar-picking style showcased in his cover of Leonard Cohen’s “Hallelujah,” a track that became one of his most well-known recordings. His version of the song was inducted into the Library of Congress’ National Recording Registry in 2014.

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nlike other cities that attract the so-called creative class, Memphis isn’t big on consequences. Rent is relatively cheap, and starting over is the currency of creativity, which runs the gamut: music, film, TV, food, theater, writing, photography. Newcomers and natives alike have equal opportunity to climb or linger, to seek or simmer, to do it their way. After living in small towns and big cities like New York City and South Beach, I myself eventually pressed the thumbtack into the far left corner of Tennessee because why not, where else? Every writer should be Southern for a little while. B uck ley ’s b a r ten d er friend Tom Clarke, whom I tracked down on an email trail through three states, said Jeff had only planned to be in Memphis for a little while, too. Former Memphian Joey Pegram emailed me from China, recalling interactions with the star who “could just be himself and hang out and people treated him like one of the gang.” If Buckley wanted a break from the pressure of making art in New York City, he found it in the Bluff City. The Grifters’ Tripp Lamkins says of his friend, “Jeff was kind of how you imagine he’d be.” Hypercreative. Moody. Shy. Witty. He “radiated at a high frequency,” says former NYC roommate Joe Murphy, who coincidentally became a Memphian himself long after his friend’s time here. As a marvel of the public eye, Buckley met expectations.

Here’s the guy who did a wicked Cher impression; who’d share morning coffee at Rockopolis, aka the apartment shared by Tripp Lamkins and Lucero’s Roy Berry across from Shangri-La Records; who paid out of his own pocket for the Grifters to fly to Australia when their label, indie powerhouse SubPop, wasn’t keen on the expenses. Buckley was like any human: multidimensional. Observers saw the obvious, and intimates discovered the depth. It was the Grifters, after all, who introduced Buckley to Memphis, and Memphis to Buckley. Among his friends and acquaintances, there was a consensus: He felt at home in a city where he was treated as a friend more than a spectacle. A drummer by trade, Joey Pegram recalls running into Buckley one afternoon, hanging out on a patio with friends in Cooper-Young. The group walked a few blocks to play music at a friend’s practice space at Plan B gallery, formerly an industrial bakery no one remembers. For Pegram, the highlight of his acquaintance with Jeff Buckley was that jam session, where the two switched instruments and Buckley’s facility on the drums matched his comfort in a big city with a small-town feel. “I think he liked Memphis and the folks there,” says Pegram, “because we didn’t fawn over him or kiss up to him like I suspect a lot of people often did.” Moving to Memphis in early 1997, Buckley began work on his newest album at Easley McCain Recording. He performed several shows at the downtown venue, Barristers, a bar tucked away in an alley off Jefferson Avenue. Buckley was a lively entertainer, but in Memphis he could let loose in ways that record labels and big-city venues either didn’t allow or didn’t cultivate. At one of his Monday-night gigs at Barristers, Joey Pegram and Emily Helming were there, separately, and it’s telling that both remembered a night where fans sat on the f loor — not typical of Memphis bar crowds, or maybe any bar crowds. Helming says Buckley seemed frustrated that evening, but when he played the first notes of his infamous Leonard Cohen cover, “Hallelujah,” the atmosphere changed. Pegram added another layer, saying, “The music created a kind of sparkly magical feeling in the room … and people were kind of looking at each other, smiling like they knew they were experiencing something really special.”

*Special thanks to Matt Timberlake for providing leads to numerous sources for this article.

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Buckley (white T-shirt and jacket, front row) supporting his friends the Grifters, who accompanied him on his 1996 Australian tour. PHOTO BY STANLEY GALLIMORE

In a city whose musical history is forever wet to the touch, a major performer who called it home for merely a few months hardly makes a ripple. Buckley’s Memphis legacy is more about him than his music. In many ways, Buckley’s time here is a well-kept secret. Doug Easley, who worked with Buckley at Easley McCain Recording on that never-finished second album, says there’s “a kind of hush about it.” Of the small group who got to know Buckley, some waited 20 years to talk about it. The album that took shape between Easley McCain Recording and the house on Rembert Street would be released in rough form in 1998 as Sketches for My Sweetheart the Drunk. Tripp Lamkins can’t bring himself to listen to it all the way through, nor does he believe that it’s the album his friend intended to release. Without Buckley himself to lend insight, fans and friends are left to go the way of college literature courses: to look for themes and draw comparisons. Sketches has the unapologetic candor of New York City and the disturbing human-ness of the Southern Gothic tradition. Intentional or not, there’s Memphis flavor on the album. Songs like “Your Flesh Is So Nice,” with its hollow, unproduced edge, could sit comfortably between the Reatards and Harlan T. Bobo on a Goner Records compilation. The classic-denim cool, straight-whiskey buzz of “Witches Rave” might be inspired by one of Memphis’ most beloved exports, Big Star, whose song “Kangaroo” was a favorite cover for Buckley. contin u ed on page 81

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MAN OF THE FUTURE

“Vitruvian Man” is one of Leonardo da Vinci’s most recognized images. The human figure inscribed inside a circle and a square has come to symbolize the union between art and science.

Leonardo’s “Robot Knight” was powered by springs and pulleys modeled on human joints, muscles, and tendons. The term “robot” was not coined until the 1920s, but Leonardo was nonetheless a pioneer in the field of robotics.

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n 1482, the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, received a letter from a 30-year-old man named Leonardo di sir Piero da Vinci. “Italy in this time period was not one country,” says Martin Kane, a historian serving as education specialist for the Discovery Center in Union City, Tennessee. “It was many different warring city-states, all trying to get one up on each other. The Dukes of Milan tended to be particularly militaristic. The family had been mercenaries who worked for the old dukes until they thought, ‘Hmm. We’re the ones with the army. Why don’t we just take over?’” In the letter, Leonardo described in detail a number of machines of war he had designed that he could build for the Duke, which far exceeded the military technology available at the time. Almost as an afterthought, the PHOTOGR APHS COURTES Y DISCOVERY PARK OF AMERIC A AND BG A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 61

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above:: Leonardo’s final self portrait. right and center: The famous “airscrew” design was Leonardo’s attempt at designing a helicopter. He was obsessed with creating a flying machine, but the materials of his day were not strong enough.

letter’s final sentences mentioned that, by the way, if His Grace needed some painting done, Leonardo, who had apprenticed with Andrea dell Verrocchio, Florence’s most respected artist, could do it. “The Duke of Milan did hire him — mostly to paint,” says Kane. Leonardo da Vinci would spend the next 17 years in Milan, creating some of the most revered masterpieces in the Western world, including The Last Supper. By the time he died in 1519, he was regarded as one of the greatest artists and philosophers the world had ever seen, and the intervening centuries have only deepened his legend. Besides the Mona Lisa, Virgin of the Rocks, and The Last Supper, Leonardo left behind dozens of notebooks and codices filled with sketches, notes, and musings. These notebooks have be-

above: Leonardo studied bird and bat wings, hoping to design a successful flying machine. bottom center: A 3D representation of a polyhedral study was found in Leonardo’s extensive notebooks.

come prized as works of art in their own regard. (The only codex in American hands is owned by Microsoft founder Bill Gates.) “Over the course of his lifetime, he filled tens of thousands of pages with notes about many, many subjects — anatomy, observations about the natural world, sketches and plans for his artwork, and designs for machines, most of which were quite ahead of their time,” explains Kane. W hile the sketches and notes in the codices are beautiful in their own right, they are also notoriously difficult to decipher. For one thing, Leonardo was ambidextrous, and could reportedly write simultaneously with both hands. Much of the writing in his notes was backwards, or “mirror writing,” a practice which some scholars believe Leonardo developed to keep his secrets. “He’s writing

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above: Among Leonardo’s more practical ideas was the worm gear, a device still used today to transform movement from one direction to another.

right: Leonardo’s boat shoes were an attempt to help man walk on water. “He was a real problem-solver by nature,” says Discovery Center historian Martin Kane.

primarily for himself, so instead of giving you the full schematic of what he’s talking about, he’s just writing down what he specifically needed to remember,” says Lane, who has become quite the expert regarding all things relating to Leonardo. The alluring, strange beauty of the codices obscured their deeper meaning, and they were overshadowed by the crowd-pleasing brilliance of his artwork. “For centuries, people essentially ignored Leonardo’s notebooks,” says Kane. “Over time, perhaps more than half of the notes were lost. It’s only in the past century or so that scholars have tried to figure out what’s going on in these books. We’re still discovering. This is new stuff for everybody.” In the 1950s, the Leonardo da Vinci Institute in Florence, Italy, assigned Carlo Niccoli to attempt to build some of the devices described in Leonardo’s writings. Using only techniques and materials available during the Italian Renainssance, he discov-

ered the intricacies and genius of the artist’s creative mind. New discoveries have been f lowing from the notebooks ever since, and the artisans of Florence have continued to recreate Leonardo’s genius. That same Institute has put together this exhibition, currently traveling around the world. Their works form the backbone of “Da Vinci’s Machines,” an extensive collection on display at the Discovery Center — roughly two hours from Memphis, straight up Highway 51 — through April 30th. The 100,000-square-foot history and science museum was founded three years ago, and the works of the Italian artisans are displayed with the same emphasis on interactivity that defines the three-year-old institution’s outlook. “They have tried to make the most realistic working models that they can based on Leonards’s original notes,” says Kane. “What makes this exhibit so exciting is that a hundred years ago, nobody knew he was doing this kind of thing.”

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WA R M A C HINE S

n the fifteenth century, artists made their living through patronage. If you wanted to paint for a living, you had to find a wealthy person with taste willing to part with some gold. Leonardo, who had been working in the Florentine artists guilds in his 20s, knew the score. So in order to make himself more marketable to the squabbling Italian nobility, he turned his formidable imagination to war. “He worked as a military engineer for some of his career, which is odd given the common belief that he was a pacifist,” says Kane. “That would have made him very unusual for the time period. There are quotes from his writings that lead people to believe he found war to be fairly unpleasant and thought that humans shouldn’t engage in it. And yet, he designed these very intricate and elaborate military machines — the most famous of which is probably his tank.” The first real tanks actually lumbered A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 63

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left: When war forced Leonardo to flee Milan for Venice, he found work as a naval engineer. This design was intended to slash the sails and ropes of enemy vessels.

top right: Leonardo invented the concept of the gun turret, a naval warfare innovation that would not reappear until the American Civil War, some 400 years later.

bottom right: Leonardo may have been considered a pacifist in his personal views, but based on his notebook sketches, he also designed the first tank.

onto the battlefield during the Battle of the Somme in 1916, centuries later, but Leonardo had foreseen the basics of the design 350 years earlier. His version, sketched out in intricate detail, looked like a giant moving wigwam ringed with cannon pointing in all directions. The steep, sloping sides were meant to def lect incoming projectiles, protecting the men inside who would propel the beast forward, using giant hand cranks to drive the four concealed wheels. “What scholars have discovered when reviewing these plans is that he included deliberate mistakes,” says Kane. If you turn the cranks in the way his tank plans indicate, one set of wheels rolls forward, the other set rolls backwards. “The machine doesn’t move. One theory is that he was a pacifist,” says Kane. “He didn’t want the machine to actually work. Another theory is that it was job security — if you want the tank built, he has to build it for you.” In his later years, as war raged between the French King Louis XII and a coalition of Italian city states, Leonardo was forced to f lee Milan to Venice, where he found work as a naval engineer for the Doge of Venice. While there, he invented the con-

cept of the gun turret. “If you’ve seen warships from before the Civil War, they have straight lines of cannons,” says Kane. “If you want to point the cannon, you have to turn the ship. His design is very like a modern battleship in that it can pivot to fire in any direction. As in many cases, Leonardo is prefiguring something that will be invented again centuries later. Since many of his notes were lost, and are unavailable to the public, it’s not necessarily that he was inspiring future work. He’s predicting what will come after him.”

to flap the wings of his canvas, wood, and iron contraptions. The resulting devices are beautiful in the way that few purely functional aircraft are today, but Leonardo never really had a chance. The problem was power-to-weight ratios. Powered flight became possible when the internal combustion engine became light enough and powerful enough to propel the Wright Flyer through the air fast enough for its wings to create lift. Leonardo quickly figured out that the human body simply could not produce enough energy, so he designed devices intended to strengthen the arms and legs of his potential pilots. The resistance devices bear a striking resemblance to contemporary gym machines. “It’s an attempt to use human muscle to increase human muscle,” says Kane. But Leonardo’s vision stretched beyond the technology of the time. He devised the inclinometer, a plumb line encased in a glass jar that would tell the pilots if their craft was flying straight. Today, the attitude indicator is a vital piece of equipment for pilots. “He’s trying to solve the problems of getting off the ground,” says Kane, “but he’s also anticipating the problems of what happens once you’re up there.”

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DR E A M S OF F L IGH T

our centuries before the Wright Brothers, Leonardo was obsessed with f light. “Many of his designs are based on his observations of nature,” says Kane. “He wasn’t properly modern as a scientist, because he didn’t perform experiments. But he did carefully observe the world around him.” The term for a flying machine that gets off the ground by f lapping its wings is “ornithopter,” and Leonardo spent much of his considerable brainpower trying to make it work. He designed elaborate pulley systems

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T HE M A G IC I A N

he majority of Leonardo’s designs were beyond the capabilities of contemporary builders. The devices that were built were mostly used by his rich patrons to impress their guests. One of the most revolutionary inventions was a self-propelled cart, driven by springs and elaborate clockwork mechanisms. This was used not to carry heavy loads, but as part of a theatrical

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This spring-powered cart was one of many of Leonardo’s mechanical innovations that first saw use as props in fifteenth-century theatrical productions.

production, where a prop traveled from the wings of the theater to the center of the stage, seemingly by magic. He also invented the floodlight by putting a candle in a mirrored box with a lens to focus the light. “He wanted to make it so you could stage plays at night without setting the theater on fire,” says Kane. “Optics played a very important role in the Italian Rennaissance. Things like mathematical perspective in paintings, and the more refined use of shadow you see in Renaissance paintings, are the direct result of optics being brought back and studied in Italy. It was international trade advancing art.” The term “robot” was not coined until the 1920s, but Leonardo was a pioneer of the science nonetheless. His automatons were powered by springs and gears patterned after human muscles and joints, and encased in suits of armor. “He would take bits and pieces of his designs and spread them out through his notebooks,” explains Kane. “You would find some parts on one page, then other parts ten pages later. Again, this is potentially a way to keep people from stealing his ideas. In the

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last few years, people have been reassembling the various pieces of what is referred to as “The Robot Knight.” “The original idea was that these would be mechanical soldiers. Leonardo wanted to save mankind by sending the robots out to fight each other, and the side whose robots prevail wins. The new research indicates that these were meant to be robot musicians for stage purposes. They were covered with armor to hide the inner workings — the magician hiding his secrets.”

Leonardo did extensive work for the theater, including his design for a floodlight that amplified the light of a candle using mirrors and a lens.

T

he list of Leonardo’s ideas goes on and on. He invented the worm gear, transformed simple motions into complex ones, and designed a perpetual motion machine for the sole purpose of proving it was impossible. “There’s some evidence that he was planning to publish a treatise on mechanical devices such as these before his death, but he just didn’t get around to it,” Kane suggests. “He was somewhat distracted. He jumped around a lot depending on what caught his eye at any particular moment. Quite a number of his projects went unfinished over the course of his life, not because he wasn’t capable of finishing them, but because he had basically ADHD.” The biggest take away from the “Da Vinci’s Machines” exhibit is the stunning reach of Leonardo’s mind. The great man was artist, engineer, scientist, and naturalist all wrapped up in one package, driven by an unquenchable thirst for new knowledge. His curiosity laid the foundations for the modern world. “He has an overwhelming desire to fix problems that he sees,” concludes Kane. “He’s a real problem-solver by nature.”

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above: Julie Crenshaw Minton captured in a rare moment of repose.

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ulie Crenshaw Minton’s company is called All the Right Moves, and its tag line is “no work, no worry, we do it all!” When she says “all” she really means it, as her team can facilitate every aspect of a move for seniors,

busy executives, and anyone and everyone who needs a little help downsizing, upsizing, or relocating from one city to another. Her company’s goal is to make the transition less overwhelming and more stress-free. To say Minton offers a helping hand is an understatement. Her first step is a complimentary consultation for her clients; if all goes well, she and her staff get down to business.

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Step One is sorting belongings in advance of the move and helping plan furniture placement in the new location. Next comes the actual wrapping, packing, and moving. The last stage involves setting up the new home, by unpacking, staging accessories, organizing closets and if need be even filling the pantry. “Soup to nuts,” Minton likes to say, and in her world, no new home will ever be piled high with boxes for days, months or years. Julie Minton is one busy professional lady, literally always on the go (sometimes in high heels!) with her blonde hair piled on her head and outfitted in her standard uniform of white shirt and black pants or skirt, so she doesn’t have to waste time choosing an outfit for the day. She credits her industriousness and independence to her dear entrepreneurial father, Dan Crenshaw, owner of Crenshaw Mobile Homes, and to her mother, JoAnn Crenshaw who had a business, the Coffee Connection, on Brookhaven Circle.

Carol and Dan Yount in their garden home on the grounds of Kirby Pines (left). Minton’s company moved them from a larger home in Olive Branch with a lot of acreage, and they marveled at how “she got everything into the new place,” including Dan’s large collection of classic model cars.

“If things are important to people, I can fit them in.” — j u l i e cr e nsh aw mi n t on Minton got started in the move-management business 11 years ago in Mobile, Alabama, at her husband Jeff Minton’s suggestion, by helping seniors in retirement communities. She tells the story of one dear senior lady who told her, “I don’t want a big, burly moving man breaking my china.” Minton took that as a personal challenge and a A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 69

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Your Step Back Home

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business opportunity; while she worked solo for a while, she added more and more employees as well as extra services, after moving back to Memphis in 2011. She is grateful to Janine Willis, another local move-manager, who graciously steered Minton in the right direction in starting her own business. All the Right Moves now consists of a team of 16 employees, working with clients throughout Memphis and the Mid-South. Minton opted not to be part of a franchise

Minton prefers to personalize the process for each individual’s needs. operation, which she feels would be limiting. She prefers to personalize the process for each individual’s needs. Minton has moved a busy Kroger executive to Memphis from Kentucky, someone who had to begin working the next day after she moved; another client from Colorado was moved into a temporary apartment while awaiting renovations to her luxury apartment. A large percentage of Minton’s work involves senior citizens moving into retirement communities including Town Village Audubon Park, Carriage Court, Trezevant, Robinwood, the Village at Germantown, Heritage at Irene Woods, and Kirby Pines Retirement Community.

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Established.

Experienced.

Expanding. You can be here in May of 2017! The Independent Living expansion at The Village is already 8l% sold out, but there are still spacious one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments available! The Village offers a private residential lifestyle with the services you need today, as well as into the future. You will enjoy the benefits of our newly expanded assisted living, memory care, and adult day care, as well as our recently updated skilled nursing, should you ever need it. We have a full and thriving community here at The Village. We’re now welcoming new neighbors and striving to add exciting and fulfilling opportunities for our existing residents.

We invite you to come experience The Village Difference. Call today to schedule your personal visit. Don’t let this opportunity pass you by!

901-737- 4242 Independent Living 901-752- 2580 Healthcare Center 7820 Walking Horse Circle, Germantown, TN 38138

| www.village-germantown.com

Live your life— your way, every day — at The Village! MM_FullPage_TrimSize_9x25_11x125.indd 1

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RETIREMENT

LIVING

• Roof Replacement • Roof Repair • Gutters • Painting • Siding

CALL TODAY FOR A FREE INSPECTION

901-232-7732 mtownconstruction.com

Minton helped Virginia and Bill Luttrell deal with the emotional upheaval of leaving their Cordova home after 23 years.

B.J. Worthy REALTOR

B.J. IS “AN AREA STAR”

committed to serving the Memphis community. Her background — Booker T. Washington High School, LeMoyne Owen college, post-graduate work at U of M — reinforced her capacity to excel, lead and overcome challenges. 30 yr. church musician, past deacon at Lindenwood Christian Church, Pres. Memphis Silver Bullet Ski Club, charter member of River City Links, Inc. MIFA volunteer, 29 yr. life member of MAAR’s MultiMillion-Dollar Club. She will forever provide unparalleled trust, professionalism, real estate expertise, quality service, and communication.

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Downsizing into smaller residences with years of accumulated treasures is a daunting prospect, and these older clients are particularly grateful to move-managers like Minton for their help and expertise. As one contented Right Moves customer put it, “An ordeal became a blessing.” She frequently establishes close and rewarding relationships with these seniors, in some cases serving as a surrogate daughter. Minton works with local realtors who call on her to help their clients move, and also gives presentations to groups of realtors such as Dick Leike and numerous moving companies to demonstrate how to help people sort out their possessions in advance of the moving process. She particularly loves the decorating and interior design part of her job, which includes creatively repurposing furniture and helping her clients envision how their new place will look — a big problem for some. Minton’s daily mantra is this: “If things are important to people, I can fit them in.” Finding space for these prized possessions and displaying them in unexpected ways and places is clearly her forte. The Right Moves director took me to visit with Carol and Dan Yount in their garden home on the grounds of Kirby Pines. Minton’s company had moved them from a larger home in Olive Branch with a lot of acreage, and they marveled at how “she got everything into the new place.” In their case that is really saying something, since the Younts have so many cherished family objects, not to mention

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Vintageless. The Farms at Bailey Station is coming. And, along with it, unparalleled opportunities to live better and fuller with a wellness and vitality as never before. Enjoy the perfect balance of city and country life as you cultivate new friendships with like-minded individuals. Make an appointment to learn more. Call (901) 235-1759 today. 3382 Grand Central Circle East, Collierville, TN 38017 | (901) 235-1759 | thefarmsatbaileystation.com

Two Great Communities, One Great Family.

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Impressed with our grand staircase? Wait until you see our new front door. A new front entrance, dining venues and new apartment styles to choose from. 60 beautiful acres await you. Plus, the comfort and security of LifeCare. It’s all a part of the Kirby Pines lifestyle. A superior value in a naturally beautiful community filled with over 30 years of rich history. If you’ve been thinking about making the move to Kirby Pines, now’s the time. To learn more, call us today. What are you waiting for? 3535 Kirby Road, Memphis, TN 38115 | (901) 365-3665 | kirbypines.com

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RETIREMENT

LIVING

THE EMBASSY APARTMENTS A

DAT T E L

R E A LT Y

PROPERTY

“Luxury and Location”

CALL FOR AN APPOINTMENT 901-685-8020 505 South Perkins Rd. In the Heart of East Memphis 1BR | 2BR | Penthouses Utilities Included See our floorplans @ embassyaptsmemphis.com

Romantic. Iconic. Historic.

A lovely vignette in the Luttrells’ new twobedroom apartment showcases Minton’s impressive decorative talents.

several amazing collections: 200 teddy bears, countless model Corvette cars displayed artfully in the garage, horse and cat figurines, and much, much more. Art was everywhere to be found in their home, displayed in beautiful old picture frames refinished by Dan Yount, an expert woodworker. Minton had guided them to sell some of their things in an antique mall, and they also held a sale courtesy of Copeland Estate Sales. Unsold items were donated to BAM Thrift on Madison Avenue, which gives its proceeds to Teen Challenge.

Minton works with local realtors who call on her to help their clients move, Compassionate Senior Care and Assisted Living Services • •

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Carol Yount warned of the necessity to start early in the downsizing process, the earlier the better at a time when “you are more energetic.” Minton and her team had placed a sea of blue tape in the new home to indicate where pieces were to be positioned, which made the move go so smoothly that the Younts were on a cruise three weeks later. Record time indeed! Virginia and Bill Luttrell used words like “amazing” and “outstanding” in describing Minton and her services. She had helped them move from a four-bedroom home in Cordova to a two-bedroom apartment in Kirby Pines, holding their hands every step

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T R E Z E VA N T 40 YEARS OF RETIREMENT LIVING

Trezevant is one of the Mid-south’s highest rated retirement communities boasting an unparalleled LifeCare program in an upscale vibrant setting. If you have not visited Trezevant or it has been awhile, come see why Memphians have been calling us home for 40 years.

177 North Highland Street | Memphis, TN | 901.515.2800 | www.trezevantmanor.org

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TISHOMINGO COUNTY M

I

S

S

I

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S

I

P

P

RETIREMENT

LIVING

I

“One of the Best Kept Secrets of the South”

Nestled in the beautiful Hills of northeast Mississippi

Antique Shops | Bargain Shops | Boating | Festivals Fishing | Hiking/Biking Trails Hunting | Rock Climbing | Water Sports| & MORE! Tishomingo County Tourism | 662.423.0051 info@tishomingo.org | tishomingofunhere.org

f The Special Needs Trusts & Resource Center

Peace of mind does not have to cost a fortune. Special Needs Trusts safeguard personal assets and provide for services and items public benefits do not cover – all without jeopardizing eligibility for government benefits. Vista Points serves as trustee for pooled, first party, and third party Special Needs Trusts. The organization focuses on helping: n people living with a disability n their parents and caregivers n the professionals who serve and guide them.

Call 888.422.4076 www.vistapoints.org

Tom Lopez, a FedEx executive, is far from retired, but he and his wife Sarah needed Minton’s help with their move into the Enclave Estates in Germantown.

of the way. Bill Luttrell emphasized the emotional upheaval in leaving a home after 23 years and said that it had taken about five months for the couple to decide what to keep for themselves, what to sell (both online and in an estate sale), and what to pass down to their daughter Mary Hoots. Julie reminds me to emphasize that her service can help people at any stage of the moving process. This was the case for Tom and Sarah Lopez, a very busy couple who were moving from an older home in Germantown to a beautiful, newer one in the Enclave Estates. They were in a real pinch. Their home had sold in record time, and the buyers were in a hurry to move in and the date was non-negotiable. To complicate matters, the floors in the new place were in the middle of being refinished, and as it happened the Lopezes were booked for a trip to Italy! Fortunately All the Right Moves came to the rescue, and the team packed up their possessions in several days, which were then sent to storage until they could be moved into the new home. Minton likes to say, “We are the perfect solution for busy executives, senior adults, and anyone who would like to avoid the work and worry associated with moving.” The aim is to make the process as seamless as possible and to help people relax “as we turn your new residence into your new home.” Whether you characterize her company as relocation consultants, moving coordinators, organization managers, or “just plain packing ladies,” with a nod to Ghostbusters, who you gonna call? All the Right Moves, that’s who.

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MEMPHIS

Distinctive Residential Settings Chef-Prepared Dining and Bistro Premier Health and Wellness Programs Award-Winning Assisted Living & Memory Care Therapy and Rehabilitation Services CELEBRATING 20 YEARS!

The Community Built for Life.® 901-624-8820 • belmontvillage.com Winner of the Argentum 2016 Best of the Best and George Mason University Healthcare Awards for the Circle of Friends© memory program for Mild Cognitive Impairment.

ACLF License 102 © 2017 Belmont Village, L.P.

LET’S GIVE BACK In recognition of National Child Abuse Prevention Month, if you purchase a Trane® heating and air conditioning system or a Rinnai Tankless Water Heater®, Best Care will make a $100 donation in your name to the

W WW.BE STCARETN .COM

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Celebrating 60 years of Serving Seniors in Shelby County. Ave Maria is a great place to start your long-term care planning. Allow one of our long-term care professionals to assist you in planning your loved one’s future needs. Ave Maria provides a continuum of care for elders, including: Physical, Occupational & Speech Therapy • Assisted Living • HomeCare Services • Pastoral Care St. Luke’s Cottage (Alzheimer’s/Memory Care) • Assisi Adult Day Center • Green House® Homes For more information please contact us at (901) 386-3211 or visit our website at www.avemariahome.org. 2805 Charles Bryan Road, Bartlett, TN 38134 We do not discriminate in regard to race, creed, sex, religion or national origin.

9293 Poplar Avenue Germantown, TN

(901) 757-4114

info@germantownplantation.com

Month-To-Month Rents!

RETIREMENT R ESOU RCES Allenbrooke Nursing and Rehabilitation Center, LLC

3933 Allenbrooke Cove, Memphis, TN 38118 901-795-2444 | allenbrookerehabcenter.com Apple Grove Alzheimer’s & Dementia Residence

3575 Hacks Cross Road, Memphis, TN 38125 901-755-1244 | applegroveliving.com The Arbors at Olive Grove Terrace

9684 Old Goodman Road, Ste. 100, Olive Branch, MS 38654 | 662-550-4394 | americareusa.net Ave Maria Home

2805 Charles Bryan Road, Memphis, TN 38134 901-386-3211 | avemariahome.org Belmont Village

6605 Quail Hollow Road, Memphis, TN 38120 901-624-8820 | belmontvillage.com Brookdale Memphis

6015 Primacy Parkway, Memphis, TN 38119 901-312-9743 | brookdale.com The Farms at Bailey Station

3382 Grand Central Circle East, Collierville, TN 38017 901-328-4850 | thefarmsatbaileystation.com Gardens of Germantown Memory Care

3179 Professional Plaza Drive, Germantown, TN 38138 901-755-5450 | gardensofgermantown.com    

Large, Upscale Apartments with Balconies Fine Dining with Chef Prepared Meals Dedicated Chapel Movie Theatre and Indoor Pool

   

Transportation to Doctors & Shopping 24-hour Licensed Nurses & Full-time RN Emergency Call Pendants Locally Owned and Operated

“a beau�ful community with a caring staff offering both independent and assisted living op�ons. . .” www.germantownplantation.com

Germantown Plantation Senior Living Community

9293 Poplar Avenue, Germantown, TN 38138 901-757-4114 | germantownplantation.com Glenmary at Evergreen

1550 North Parkway, Memphis, TN 38112 901-726-4881 | theglenmary.com Hearing & Balance Centers of West Tennessee

6242 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN 38119 901-842-4327 | hearingmemphis.com Heritage at Irene Woods

4580 Forest Hill Irene Road, Memphis, TN 38125 901-737-4735 | roseseniorliving.com Kirby Pines

3535 Kirby Road, Memphis, TN 38115 901-369-7340 | kirbypines.com

FLOOR HEATING SYSTEMS

Legacy at Lenox Park

CHANGE THE WAY YOU HEAT

6551 Knight Arnold Road, Memphis, TN 38115 901-692-9260 | seniorhealthservices.us Legacy Estates at Lenox Park

6539 Knight Arnold Road, Memphis, TN 38115 901-360-8785 | legacyatlenoxpark.com ph: 901.794.4636 | memphistileandmarble.com

LifePointe Village at Southaven

2782 Star Landing Road E., Southaven, MS 38672 662-429-7672 | lpvsouthaven.com

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WE’LL MAKE YOUR GOLDEN YEARS SHINE G r and Living in Midt o w n M emphis & Eas t M emphis R et ir ement & A s s is t ed Living w it h Independenc e & C hoic e kenningtonpointe.com 9 0 1 .3 6 6 .6 2 0 0

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Upgrade your lifestyle, Downsize your worries

A Unique Perspective on Senior Living Amenities Include: Utilities* • Xfinity Cable TV • 24-hour Emergency Staff on site • Secure/Gated • Video Monitored Maid Service • 24-hour Maintenance • Lawn and Garden Care • Community Dining • Activities • Transportation Health Screenings • Fitness Area • Library • Game Room • Independent Living • 8.5 Acres

Why rent when you can own for less?

*Cottages pay gas and electric.

3589 Covington Pike, Memphis, TN • 901.385.7061 • LutheranVillageMemphis.com

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All Inclusive

Lutheran Village

3589 Covington Pike, Memphis, TN 38128 901-385-7061 | lutheranvillagememphis.com

Assisted Living Level II

Memphis Jewish Home & Rehab

36 Bazeberry Road, Cordova, TN 38018 901-758-0036 | memphisjewishhome.org

No more washing dishes or mowing the yard

Quail Ridge Alzheimer’s Special Care Center

2820 Kirby Whitten Parkway, Bartlett, TN 38134 901-440-2585 | jeaseniorliving.com Quince Nursing & Rehabilitation Center

Locations * Heber Springs, Arkansas * Russellville, Arkansas * Conway, Arkansas * Cabot, Arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

6733 Quince Road, Memphis, TN 38119 901-755-3860 | quincerehabcenter.com Robinwood Resort

2795 Kirby Whitten Parkway, Bartlett, TN 38134 901-300-3832 | rlcommunities.com Schilling Gardens & the Arbors of Schilling Gardens

 A caring staff 24 hours a day

 Medication management

 Private apartments

 Onsite therapy service available

 Home cooked meals

 All utilities, wireless internet & cable TV

15 Schilling Bend Commons Road, Collierville, TN 38017 | 901-286-5862 | americareusa.net

 Scheduled Transportation

 Visiting Physician and Nursing staff

The Solana Germantown

 Recreational and social activities

 Adult Day/Respite Care

8199 Poplar Avenue, Germantown, TN 38138 901-313-0303 | brookdale.com

 Housekeeping and laundry services

 Vegetable and flower gardening

Southridge Village Assisted Living

CALL US: 800.944.2607

VISIT OUR WEBSITE: www.southridgevillage.com

401 Southridge Parkway, Heber Springs, Arkansas 72543 | 501-362-7023 | southridgevillage.com St. Peter Manor

108 N. Auburndale Street, Memphis, TN 38104 901-278-8200 | wesleyliving.com Taylor Hearing Centers

LIVING WELL. Aging Gracefully. Enjoy all the advantages of active retirement living – even if you’re not ready to retire. Build friendships, explore your interests, and enjoy a carefree lifestyle.

4646 Poplar Avenue, Ste. 100, Memphis, TN 38117 901-762-0125 | taylorhearingcenters.com Town Village Audubon Park

950 Cherry Road, Memphis, TN 38117 901-537-0002 | townvillageaudubonpark.com Trezevant Manor

• Spacious apartments • Flexible, restaurantstyle dining • Indoor heated pool • Emergency call system and 24-hour on-site staff • Engaging life enrichment activities and social opportunities

177 N. Highland, Memphis, TN 38111 901-325-4000 | trezevantmanor.org Village at Germantown

7820 Walking Horse Circle, Germantown, TN 38138 901-752-2500 | village-germantown.com Wesley Housing Corporation of Memphis

1615 Appling Road, Cordova, TN 38016 901-380-4900 | wesleyhousing.com Wesley Meadows Retirement Community

Call for a personal tour and complimentary lunch.

1325 McIngvale Road | Hernando, MS 38632 662-429-2070 | mss.org Zounds Hearing

950 Cherry Road Memphis, TN 38117

901-537-0002

www.TownVillageAudubonPark.com

6915 Crumpler Bouevard, Olive Branch, MS 38671 662-874-6279; 7730 Wolf River Blvd., Ste. 106, Germantown, TN 38654 901-791-2467 | hearmasters.com

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• NO-HASSLE RATE STARTING AT O

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DATE

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JEFF BUCKLEY continued from page 57

10

when you m

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Buckley penned an ominous note on this autographed magazine clipping.

MEMPHIS GRIZZLIES

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A former Memphian, Danielle Costello is now a freelance writer/editor in Morgantown, West Virginia. A mom of two, exercise enthusiast, and dog-rescue advocate, she spends her free time making 45-minute 30-minute meals and savoring disrupted sleep.

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COURTESY DANIELLE COSTELLO

uckley is part of a coterie of soul seekers — a mix of names recognizable and unknown — who have come from other states and countries to a home inside the Parkways, or maybe they never left there to start. For those inclined to follow their noses more than their wallets, for those who feel that, as Robert Gordon and others have said, “life is short and art is long,” Memphis is a beacon. The living is cheap. The pace is slow. This sets it apart, even from somewhere as close TEMPLATEFILE as Nashville. You don’t have to make it in Memphis, but you can — it’s just different. Memphis is creative awakening, growing untamed like kudzu. Buckley’s journey through this city is also a ref lection of just that. On May 29, 1997, while waiting for his band to travel to Memphis from New York to join him in the studio, Buckley went for a swim in the Wolf River Harbor, reportedly fully clothed and wearing boots. He drowned after being pulled under in the wake of a passing tugboat. His body wasn’t found until June 4th. The autopsy report deemed the drowning accidental, as no signs of drugs or alcohol were found in his system.

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Steve Weber

New Construction Whole House Renovation Kitchens, Baths, & Additions

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ASK VANCE

Woodmen of theWorld Our trivia expert solves local questions of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes.

DEAR VANCE: During a recent visit to Elmwood Cemetery, I came across a monument for a man named Percy Finlay, carved in the shape of a massive tree (above). I noticed other, smaller gravestones nearby, also carved into logs or tree trunks. Can you explain this? Were all these people lumberjacks, or involved in the timber industry? — t.j., memphis.

For years, our city proclaimed itself the Hardwood Capital of the World because of its location at the center of ancient forests in Tennessee, Arkansas, and Mississippi. As a result, quite a few industries here — Anderson Tully Company and Memphis Hardwood Flooring immediately come to mind — have a direct connection to lumber, so it makes sense you might think the employees would mark their graves with tree-shaped tombstones. But look carefully at these markers, and in addition to the name of the deceased, you will usually find a round seal for the Woodmen of the World (left), and the stones you noticed mark the last resting places of Woodmen. But they are not lumberjacks or lumber workers. Or at least, I should say, not all of them. Allow me to explain. Woodmen of the World is actually a fraternal organization, much like the Elks and Masons and Shriners. It was founded in 1883 in Lyons, Iowa, by an insurance salesman named Joseph Cullen Root, but his name had nothing to DEAR T.J.:

do with the name of the group. Root decided to form a “mutual benefit society” that would provide all sorts of insurance services — including burial benefits — for its dues-paying members, after hearing a sermon about “pioneer woodsmen clearing away the forest to provide for their families.” Root called his new organization the Modern Woodmen of America, but he clearly ran into difficulties because histories explain (for reasons never made clear to me) he was ousted from his own organization. So he moved to Omaha, Nebraska, and in 1890 formed another, almost identical group, which he called Woodmen of the World. In 2015, the name became WoodmenLife. The newer group expanded quite rapidly, claiming more than 88,000 members within its first decade. In 1912, they built a headquarters building in Omaha that, at 20 stories, was the tallest structure west of Chicago. Within five years, membership had increased almost tenfold; an astonishing 750,000 men (and women) were Woodmen of the World. Root originally limited membership, as did so many other groups, to white males, but also denied membership to others that he deemed risky for insurance, among them saloon owners, gunpowder factory workers, miners, and even professional baseball players. These restrictions were later relaxed. The Woodmen established hundreds of chapters around the country, organized marching and drill teams called Modern Woodmen Foresters, broadcast news and music from their own

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY VANCE LAUDERDALE

by vance lauderdale

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radio station WOAW, built tuberculosis sanitariums when the disease was far more prevalent than it is today, partnered with the Red Cross to provide aid whenever it was needed, and did all sorts of good deeds. But today, it seems, most people know them mainly for their distinctive tombstones. When a member died, his insurance policy provided a tombstone carved in stone (or cast in cement) in the shape of a tree trunk, with details like bark and vines and sometimes even a woodsman’s ax included in the design. I encourage anyone to do as I did one lovely afternoon. Have your chauffeur drive you around the older cemeteries in Memphis — Elmwood, Forest Hill, and Calvary are my favorites — where you can’t help but notice how popular the Woodmen of the World markers were; in some places, it’s almost a forest of stone trees, their trunks cut off to indicate a life cut short. At Elmwood, I located some two dozen Woodmen of the World markers. Most were the standard tree trunk design, with minor Root denied variations, as you see here membership to (opposite page, bottom), but a few were more trasaloon owners, ditional gravestones, algunpowder factory though they still carried the WOTW seal someworkers, miners, and where. They represent an even professional interesting cross-section of Memphis society in baseball players. the early 1900s. Effie East (1870-1912) was a clerk in a dry-goods store. Louie Wilson (1883-1915) worked as a mechanic. Mary Seissinger (1853-1905) was a housekeeper. J.E. Bell (1855-1919) was a streetcar inspector. William Deaton (1844-1919) sold Singer sewing machines. Erle Brown (1897-1918), at age 21, the youngest Woodmen of the World burial I could find at Elmwood, was a sailor. As you surely noticed if you were paying attention, all of the death dates stop before 1920; that’s when the Woodmen decided to discontinue the tombstone benefit. Apparently all these fancy tombstones were becoming too expensive. But what about that truly massive carved tree you noticed at Elmwood, T.J.? Well, that one is a bit of a mystery. It stands over the remains of Percy Finlay (1872-1913), and a plaque attached to the base of the tree says this about Finlay: “He loved his fellow man.” He was a very prominent attorney with the law firm of Finlay & Finlay, with offices in the Memphis Bank and Trust Building. The mystery, however, is whether this is an “official” Woodmen of the World gravestone. I think not. For one thing, it’s much larger and much more intricately carved than the other WOTW markers nearby. Also, it lacks the WOTW seal that is, at least from my initial studies, always a part of the memorial. Woodmen of the World — oops, I keep forgetting the new name is WoodmenLife — has a chapter in Memphis, and its members even maintain a Facebook page. The group is still very active all across America, still providing benefits and assistance to members, with their slogan, “Standing Strong for Generations.”

below: An old snapshot shows The Peabody under construction in 1924-1925.

above: This attractive building stood at the southeast corner of Union and South Belvedere.

Gerber’s East

DEAR VANCE: You’ve written before about the John Gerber Department Store on Main Street across from Court Square. But my mother says Gerber also had a Midtown location on Union Avenue. Where was it? — e.w., memphis.

Your mother has an excellent memory. I didn’t recall another Gerber store on Union, but after what seemed like months of diligent research, I turned up a Commercial Appeal advertisement (shown here) announcing the new “East Memphis” Gerber store, at the southeast corner of Union and Belvedere. The store had its grand opening on November 8, 1941 — perhaps not the best timing, since one month later the U.S. would enter World War II, but despite the lean years that followed for our country, the Gerber store remained in business — specializing in women’s clothing — until the late 1940s. I don’t have a specific date, but sometime around 1950, Gerber’s closed there, and Morris Berliant opened a women’s store in the impressive building. He had been a buyer for Shainberg Department Store, and his wife, Sonia, had worked for Lynn’s Millinery Shop downtown. Berliant’s remained in business until the mid-1960s, when that location became home to Interiors by Grenadier. Over the years, the busy corner changed hands many times, and I could list all those businesses but I really don’t want to. At some point, the nice building you see here came tumbling down; the corner is now a KFC.  DEAR E.W.:

Got a question for vance? EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.com

MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis magazine,

460 Tennessee Street #200, Memphis, TN 38103 ONLINE: memphismagazine.com/ask-vance

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G A R D E N VA R I E T Y

Digging In Meet Miss Huff and Max, available at local plant sales offering the exotic and the unusual.

by christine arpe gang

above: Miss Huff, a lantana that blooms from spring until frost, grows three to four feet tall and wide and comes back every year, a fitting partner to the pumpkins, gourds, and squash featured in fall displays. inset: Miss Huff’s flowers are a brightly colored kaleidoscope of vivid oranges, pinks, and yellows. PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAROL AND JASON REESE, UNIVERSITY OF TENNESSEE EXTENSION

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ardeners don’t need tornados to feel like they are spinning their way through spring. The season rushes through so quickly that every plant seems to need a little attention whether it’s a trim here or a deadheading there. Early weeds will be tugged out creating, hopefully, a few bare places for the new plants we’ve been dreaming of all winter and a few that scream “buy me” at nurseries and plant sales. High on my shopping list is the lantana known as Miss Huff, a plant that blooms all summer and, more importantly, through the fall when I most want its bright orange, yellow, and pink flowers. She will be a pretty partner to Max, my nickname for a clump of perennial sunflowers botanically known as Helianthus maximiliani —which I wrongly assumed was named for

its 7-foot stature and almost infinite girth. And even though some gardeners reject the massive Max as a thug that wants to take over, in the right place he’s a prince of a guy. This native of the American prairie was named for the German Prince Alexander Philippe Maximilian, an explorer, ethnologist, and naturalist who discovered this species of flower on an expedition to our country in 1832. The plant can be a bit difficult to find at brickand-mortar nurseries. Most people who have Max are more than happy to share a clump with you. Mine are the progeny of a plant once owned and freely shared by the late Angela

Mullikin, a past president of the Memphis Herb Society and all-around great gardener and friend. Seeds can be ordered online from nurseries specializing in wildflowers. Last year Max proved to be a majestic backdrop for a modest display of pumpkins and gourds when his bright yellow flowers finally opened in October. But Max wasn’t quite enough, so I added some potted mums and coleus. Although generally pleased with this humble effort, I knew it could be improved. Being frugal and lazy, my mind searched for plants that would enhance the display in my front yard all summer and still look good enough to partner up with those toughskinned orange, yellow, and mottled edible orbs later on. I decided that Miss Huff, a lantana that blooms nonstop from spring until frost, could be it. Like other lantanas, Miss Huff attracts butterflies and hummingbirds, thrives in full sun, and isn’t too fussy about soil as long as her feet aren’t constantly wet. Most lantanas are tender perennials that must be replaced every year. Miss Huff returns year after year unless our winter temperatures fall well below zero. She also stands much taller than most of her cousins, easily reaching three feet tall or more if not trimmed back once or twice during the summer. If Miss Huff is happy where she is planted, she has been known to spread 10 feet wide! Count on a three- to four-foot spread if she is comfy but not necessarily deliriously happy. I can’t wait to see how she fares with Max. I’m hoping it’s a marriage made in plant heaven even though Miss Huff is not connected to a royal family. She was discovered by some observant and enterprising nurserymen happily blooming year after year in the front yard of the mayor of Crawford, Georgia, a small town near Athens. His mother, known to everyone as Miss Huff, brought the lantanas to the property from Florida.

S

hopping for new plants is a frenetic but fun part of spring gardening, especially if you visit the sales put on by the Memphis Botanic Garden, The Dixon Gallery and Gardens, and the Lichterman Nature Center. Sales at these non-profits focus on presenting plants that are well-adapted to our climatic conditions and gardening traditions.

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Best of all, you can see how many of them are used successfully in their landscapes. So here’s a brief guide. Dixon’s Garden Fair (April 7-8) will offer rare, choice, and unusual plants such as Itoh and other peony varieties, native azaleas, ground orchids, and Chinese paperbush (edgeworthia), the stunning winter-blooming shrub that is at home underneath a canopy of deciduous trees. See more at dixon.org. Lichterman’s plant sale (April 21-22) focuses on native plants and well-adapted non-natives grown on its premises by devoted volunteers. The big draw is a large selection of plants that attract butterflies, especially the milkweed that feeds the caterpillars of the migrating monarchs. These once-prevalent native plants are being displaced as farmland shrinks and the use of herbicides grows. Numerous milkweed varieties will be for sale, including the native pink flowering forms and butterfly weed, which has orange blooms. Gardeners who buy the plants caterpillars feed on need to know those plants will be consumed down to nubby sticks. The popular children’s book, The Hungry Caterpillar, is not a fantasy. Black swallowtail caterpillars will munch on parsley and fennel. I grew large bronze fennels primarily for them and gently moved the ones I found on my parsley over to the fennel. Also for sale are a number of shade plants including hardy ferns, a big assortment of perennial salvias and some unusual fuchsias that endure our summer heat. Bargain hunters know to flock to the halfprice sale, which will be held April 22nd. Expect a scene that is almost like the department store sales depicted in old movies. I’m told people line up before the sale and then run to buy the plants they want. The biggest of the three sales is at Memphis Botanic Garden (April 21-22). The sale includes some 500 varieties of perennials and flowering shrubs, some of which attract birds, butterflies, and bees, as well as hostas, hydrangeas and a huge selection of herbs. Getting a spotlight this year is the Memphis Herb Society, which is offering lectures, demonstrations, and tours of the herb garden during the sale hours. Herb Society members will also be stationed near the sales area devoted to herbs so they can answer questions from shoppers. Check out memphisbotanicgarden.com for more details. These sales will make it easy to “dig in” to local gardening.   Christine Arpe Gang has been writing about gardening in Memphis for more than 30 years, primarily for the commercial appeal. She seeks out the best plants and growing techniques to share with her readers and use in her own garden.

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Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2017

FACE OF

COFFEE

ARTISAN COFFEES

SCRATCH BAKERY - SODA FOUNTAIN

BREAKFAST - LUNCH - DINNER cafeeclectic.net Harbortown - Midtown - Highland

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DINING OUT

Sweet and Savory Celebrate milestones, revisit favorite dishes, and discover traditional Thai cuisine at Midtown’s Bhan Thai.

Spicy Old Man

spring roll wrappers were starchy like phyllo dough, and the rolls reminded us of a tiny, hearty Thai burrito. A classic Thai peanut sauce and a honey-mustard sauce were drizzled on top. My cup of Tum Kha soup was surprisingly light and delicately flavorful. The coconut milk base featured a lemongrass chicken stock, and the soup included thinly sliced mushrooms, green onions, and at my request, whole shrimp. We marveled at the generous portion of chicken in our order of satay and the Spring Rolls well-balanced peanut sauce that accompanied it. One of my dining companions selected the Bhan Thai salad as a starter, a big salad with plenty of protein, crispy tofu, hard-boiled eggs, and peanut sauce. For his entrée, the vegetarian at our table chose the Spicy Old Man with Asian eggplant, tofu, basil, and a thick, savory “secret” sauce. He had no problem finding plenty to choose from on the menu since the choice of tofu, chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp is available for most dishes. I went with the specialty that I can’t ever get enough of: green curry with vegetables and bamboo shoots over rice. The kicker to this dish is the sneaky sweetness and spiciness of the sauce. First, basil hits the nose; Thai chili comes next; and coconut sauce cools at the end. Our third companion opted for a meatier treat, Eight Angels — a cast of shrimp, chicken, pork, beef, shiitake mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, and baby corn — from the house specialties section of the menu. Not a fan of spicy food, she was relieved to find the brown sauce to be mild, just as described. For dessert, the sticky rice custard, the most traditional Thai offering, stood out. The custard on top of the dish was sweet enough to qualify as a dessert, but its pressed rice and topping of black sesame seeds gave it a savory edge. Service at Bhan Thai was focused and brisk but still

by amy lawrence | photographs by justin fox burks

A

certain special feeling permeates the beginning of every dining experience I have at Bhan Thai: There’s a welcoming, comfortable vibe that never seems to waver, paired with a lovely anticipation for the amazing Thai flavors present in course after imaginative course. The restaurant’s name simply means “Thai house,” and it’s a place I’ve been going back to over the years to celebrate birthdays and hard-fought accomplishments. I recently revisited this converted Central Gardens home that started out years ago as the famed Raji restaurant, and I was thrilled to have a reason to try dishes that were new to me while also savoring some old favorites. First off, any place that serves good spring rolls is automatically in my rotation, and at dinner Saturday night, one order was plenty for our table of three. The

Molly Smith

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personable on this busy Saturday night. Our server thoroughly answered our questions and recommended her favorite cocktails. Two members of the group tried the Thai Jito, a mojito with basil replacing the mint, and Molly’s Margarita, while I opted for an $8 sake. At Friday lunch a few weeks later, Bhan Thai was packed, but service remained friendly and solicitous. On weekdays, entrées are served with the chef’s choice of soup, and lunch menu dishes are all around $9. We shared small egg rolls packed with cabbage, carrots, and onion and served alongside a clear, vinegary, peppery sauce and then, between sips of hot tea for me and Singha beer for my companion, we feasted. First up was spicy Thai fried rice with tofu, egg, and vegetables, among the best fried rice dishes we’ve had anywhere thanks to fluff y rice, many large slices of fried tofu and egg, and its generous portion. Earlier, a friend who’s moved to Portland had reminisced about the restaurant’s chicken massaman, which was served with potatoes and cashews in a creamy red curry. The menu notes that traditionally, chicken massaman was served to celebrate entry into monkhood, and the dish definitely lives up to such expectations. Our pad Thai, pricier than the regular lunch menu items, was also a hit with perfectly cooked noodles and a balance of sweet and sour. For dessert, we were among the first to try a new menu item: a slice of marbleized green tea cheesecake with caramel sauce polka-dotting the plate. I knew that instead of more typical desserts, I wanted another Thai-style dessert like the impressive sticky rice custard we’d all loved at dinner. While cheesecake’s existence owes more to Greeks, Romans, and Europeans, the addition of green tea was enough of a nod to Asian cuisine for me. Delving deeper into the Asian flavors highlighted at Bhan Thai — the perennial winner for Best Thai food in Memphis reader restaurant polls — was more than worthwhile, and owner Molly Smith and Chef Sorrasit “Alex” Sittranont’s dedication and vision were palpable. If you haven’t been in a little while, or if this spot is new to you, I recommend stopping by soon for an excellent meal created by folks who are at the top of their game. AMY’S PICS

Thai Jito & Molly’s Margarita

BHAN THAI 1324 Peabody Ave. (901) 272-1538

★★★★ ★★★ ★★ ★

Exceptional Very good Satisfactory Skip it!

STARS: ★★★★ FOOD: Traditional Thai favorites expertly prepared, with

dishes on the full spectrum of mild to spicy. DRINKS: Full wine list, specialty cocktails with standout

Chicken Satay

The satay is marinated in curry powder, then grilled and served with cucumber salad.

interpretations of the traditional mojito (with basil) and margarita, beer, and a small selection of sake. ATMOSPHERE: Raucous and upbeat with a mix of celebrations and date nights in different rooms of an American four-square house built in the early 1900s. SERVICE: Servers are personable, knowledgeable, and committed to getting the details right. EXTRAS: A side patio, expanded deck, and bar at the back of the restaurant offer outdoor seating. A special event space also is located next door. RESERVATIONS: Recommended, especially on weekend nights or for large parties. PRICES: Starters: $4.50-$11; Soups and salads: $3.50-$11; Dinner entrées: $13-$25; Lunch menu entrées: $9-$10; Desserts: $6 OPEN: Dinner Sunday-Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. and on Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed on Monday.

THREE TO TRY

GREEN CURRY: Served over rice, the bamboo shoots and beautifully cut vegetables come in a spicy, lightly sweet curry sauce accented with fresh basil.

TUM KHA SOUP: Light and flavorful with coconut and lemongrass notes, this soup is the ideal kick-off to a meal with powerful flavors. Thinly sliced mushrooms and green onions complement the broth. Add shrimp!

STICKY RICE CUSTARD: Everyone at the table raved about this inventive square of Thai-style rice pudding, a not-too-sweet dessert bordering on savory. A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 87

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OUR IN-DEPTH GUIDE TO MEMPHIS-AREA RESTAURANTS

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

CITY DINING TIDBITS

Oyster Bar at Sweet Grass

C

by pamela denney

hef Ryan Trimm’s love affair with raw oysters is generational, a sentiment passed from grandfather to father to son. Now Trimm is a dad himself, and his own children, ages 2 and 5, eat oysters on the half shell with atypical finesse. For Trimm, unbridled oyster love means the kids are growing up right. “My daughter doesn’t even put them on a cracker,” he says, with an appreciative shake of his head. “You have no idea how proud I am of her.” Oyster lovers of any age can settle into a new oyster bar at Trimm’s Sweet Grass in Cooper-Young, the first of its kind in Memphis. While many local restaurants serve oysters, the seasonal offerings at Sweet Grass move beyond hearty Gulf Coast favorites. Try sweet-tasting beauties from Virginia’s pristine Rappahannock River, salty morsels in teardrop shells from North Carolina’s Outer Banks, and the Chesapeake Bay’s Sweet Jesus, darlings for me because the oysters taste like summer cucumbers, cool and lightly salted. Hot oysters — chargrilled with garlic, Parmesan, parsley, and lemon or plated with barbecue sauce and fennel slaw — join the restaurant’s revamped bistro menu along with shared plates served family-style. Consider the restaurant’s expertly fried chicken, which comes to the table as a 10-piece platter with veggie sides, pickles, and hot sauce. “Think about a Chinese restaurant,” Trimm says. “People order five or six things, pass them around, and try a little of everything. It’s a fun and friendly way to eat.” I couldn’t agree more after sharing an oyster salad tossed with Green Goddess dressing, a lovely retro throwback, and a magnificent rice pirlau served with a ladle in a wide-rimmed bowl. Breathtaking and bountiful, the fish, ham, sausage, and shellfish stew binds past to present with an aromatic broth that feels married to the sea. “Pirlau is of African descent, a Low Country food with soul in it, with a story behind it,” Trimm says. “I’ve always been drawn to that kind of food.” Sweet Grass, 937 S. Cooper (901-278-0278) $-$$$ clockwise from top: Sweetgrass Chef Ryan Trimm; chargrilled oysters; fried chicken for two; Low Country pirlau served family-style. We celebrate our city’s community table and the people who grow, cook, and eat the best Memphis food at

MEMPHISMAGAZINE.COM/FOOD-DINING

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M

CIT Y DINING LIST

emphis magazine offers this restaurant listing as a service BONNE TERRE—This inn’s cafe features American cuisine with a flair, and a seasonal menu that changes monthly. Offers to its readers. The directory is not intended as a recommendation of the estab- Southern Angus steaks, duck, pasta, and seafood. Closed Sun.-Wed.  4715 lishments included, nor does it list every restaurant in town. It does, however, Church Rd. W. (Nesbit, MS). 662-781-5100. D, X, $-$$$ include most of the city’s finer restaurants, many specialty restaurants, and a representative BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, sampling of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food facilities or cafeterias brewed steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with are listed, nor have we included establishments that rely heavily on take-out business. live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty Restaurants are included regardless of whether they advertise in Memphis magazine. serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as   The guide is updated regularly, but we recommend that you call ahead to check on hours, chicken fried quail and braised pork shank. Closed Mon. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. D (Tues.-Sat.), SB, X, $-$$ prices, and other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; please contact us. BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, Email dining@memphismagazine.com. and subs. 3 42 Hwy 70, Mason, TN. 901-294-3400. L, D, $-$$ BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine BAR LOUIE—Serves small plates, flatbreads, sandwiches, burgers, includes such entrees as fish and chips burgers, sandwiches, salads, 148 NORTH—French cuisine meets Southern comfort food here salads, and such large plate entrees as blackened fish tacos and baked and daily specials. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, SB, MRA, $ with menu items such as chicken and waffles, duck confit, and Ke’s mac-and-cheese.  2125 Madison. 207-1436. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas,including the Knuckle Sandwich, made with lobster knuckle and puff pastry. 148 BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna; Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and “soulN. Main (Collierville). 569-0761. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ also pulled pork shoulder, Texas toast barbecue sandwich, chicken food specials.”   2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207901 GRILLE & MARKET—Neighborhood market and eatery sandwich, and salads. Closed Sun.  1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, 1546. L, D, X, $-$$ serves burgers, gyros, falafel pitas, hot wings, and more. 711 E. X, MRA, $-$$ BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Parkway S. 512-6171. B, L, D, $ BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian influence, Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ABUELO’S MEXICAN FOOD EMBASSY—Mejores de la Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ Meatballs, as well as ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed casa — beef and stuffed shrimp — is a specialty here, along with salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily specials.   73 Monroe. 275-8752. B Sun.  1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, MRA, $-$$$ tilapia Veracruz, quesadillas, chili rellenos, and chicken medallions. (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, $-$$ BROOKS PHARM2FORK—Serving fresh vegetables and meats 8274 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 672-0769. L, D, X, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern responsibly grown by area farmers. Entrees include Marmilu Farms ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and Pork Triangle Steak, Old School Salmon Patties, and Pan Seared Lake’s includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also beef dishes and a homemade soup of the Catfish.  120 Mulberry. (Collierville). 853a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$ day. 2 2 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, DINING SYMBOLS 7511. D, X, $-$$ ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in a stylish MRA, $-$$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—Breakfast is the setting using locally sourced products; also small-plates/bar. Closed for BARKSDALE RESTAURANT— focus here, with specialty omelets, including B — breakfast lunch Sat. and all day Sun.  690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, Old-school diner serving breakfast and the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily $$-$$$ L — lunch Southern plate lunches.  237 Cooper. specials, and homemade breads and pastries. AGAVE MARIA—Menu items at this Mexican eatery include short 722-2193. B, L, D, X, MRA, $ D — dinner Closed Mon.  3519 Walker. 324-0144. B, X, rib stuffed poblanos, shrimp and crab enchiladas, and grilled lamb BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New SB — Sunday brunch MRA, $ chops.  83 Union. 341-2096. L, D, X, $-$$ Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery WB — weekend brunch BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter and large plates; among the offerings is the pan-seared hanger steak X — wheelchair accessible Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and are among the popular entrees here. Closed with duck-fat-roasted fingerling potatoes; also handcrafted cocktails rice, and muffalettas; also serves some MRA — member, Memphis Tuesday. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, and local craft beers. Closed for dinner Sun.   940 S. Cooper. favorites from the former Le Restaurant Association $ 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ Chardonnay.  2094 Madison. 278-8626. $ — under $15 per person without BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL— ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — including Mr. T L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. drinks or desserts Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, bottled or on tap.   100 S. BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ $$ — under $25 cuisine with international flair served in a more.)  5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes former beauty shop. Serves steaks salads, $$$ — $26-$50 Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 pasta, and seafood, including pecan $$$$ — over $50 (Yates only, M-F), D, X, MRA, $-$$ Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ crusted golden sea bass. Closed for dinner BUNTYN CORNER CAFE—Serving SHADED — new listing ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN—Traditional Sunday.  966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, favorites from Buntyn Restaurant, including Italian cuisine with a menu that changes seasonally with such entrees as SB, X, $-$$$ chicken and dressing, cobbler, and yeast Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Cl. 347-3569. BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleo-centric rolls.  5050 Poplar, Suite 107. 424-3286. B, L, X, $ D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ restaurant offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, enchiladas, THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. fillets ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed Sun.  327 S. Main. 409to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood.   107 eggs benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast 6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$ S. Germantown Rd. (Cordova). 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, fare; also burgers,sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 BELLE: A SOUTHERN BISTRO—Brisket in a bourbon brown MRA, $$-$$$ S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $ sugar glaze, and chicken with basmati rice are among the specialties; CAFE 1912—French/American bistro serving such seafood entrees as THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Specialties include also seafood entrees and such vegetables as blackened green grouper and steamed mussels: also crepes, salads, and French onion sweet potato pancakes, a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich, tomatoes. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.   117 Union Ave. soup. 2 43 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ and breakfast served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D 433-9851. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ CAFE 7/24—Specialties at this Southern eatery include Mr. Charles’s (Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $ BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and Fried Catfish and slow smoked barbecue ribs. Closed Sun. 94 S. Front. ASIAN PALACE—Chinese eatery serves seafood, vegetarian items, dim seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar 590-3360. L, D, X, $ sum, and more.  5266 Summer Ave. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ also featured.  912 Ridge Lake. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ CAFE BROOKS BY PARADOX—Serving grab-and-go pastries, A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete BHAN THAI—Authentic Thai cuisine includes curries, pad Thai as well as lunch items. Menu includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce.  3445 noodles, and vegetarian dishes, as well as seafood, pork, and duck such as the Modern Reuben and Grown Up Grilled Cheese. 1934 Poplar Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. and all day Mon.  1324 Peabody. (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 544-6200. B, L, X, $ AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime downtown favorite specializes 272-1538. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE ECLECTIC—Spanish omelets, and chicken and waffles are in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; also BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with global among menu items, along with sandwiches, wraps, and burgers.   603 extensive martini list.  83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, X, MRA, influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties are a 14-oz. N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645; 510 S. $-$$$ bone-in rib-eye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. Third, in the Highland. 410-0765. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This Overton Square eatery Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, WB, X, CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and $$-$$$ salads, and more.   12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ enchilada of the day; specials change daily.  2115 Madison. 274-0100. BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN—Kabobs, flavorful chicken and lamb CAFE OLE—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; L, D, SB, X, $-$$ stew, and injera (flatbread) are traditional items on the menu, along one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343BAHAMA BREEZE—Baby back ribs, Jamaican chicken wings, with vegetarian options. 1788 Madison. 474-7214. L, D, X, $-$$ 0103. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ and coconut shrimp are among the entrees at this Caribbean-fusion BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE—Serves CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, restaurant.  2830 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 385-8744. L, Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood, duck, and steaks, with and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 D, X, MRA, $-$$ seasonally changing menu; also, a sushi bar and flatbread pizza. Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and Closed Sun.  139 S. Rowlett St. (Collierville). 861-1999. L, D, X, location; call for hours.  121 Union Ave. 522-2010; 2150 W. Poplar at fried seafood platters. 5 35 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ $-$$ Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748; 715 W. Brookhaven Cl. BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken CAFE PONTOTOC—Serves a variety of internationally inspired 590-2585. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet.  1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. small plates, as well as salads and sandwiches. Closed Mon.   314 S. BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international (Cordova). 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ Main. 249-7955. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with BONEFISH GRILL—Serves wood-grilled fish,as well as steaks, CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, specialty cocktails. Closed Sun.-Mon. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, chicken and pork entrees. 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including baconX, $ 753-2220; 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Carriage Crossing wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. (Collierville). 854-5822. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 89

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CIT Y DINING LIST

T H E W I N E M AV E N

Wines for the Wedding Adding the finishing touch to that special event. b y ch a r l i e wa r n er o, your daughter is getting married and, as good parents, you want her to have the best wedding ever. You’ve got the dress-maker in high gear, the invitation lists organized, the rehearsal dinner being planned, and the main event scheduled at your venue of choice. The caterer has the menu. The photographer is ready and waiting. All is proceeding to plan. Even the weatherman has been bribed. Then one evening, a thought strikes — wine for the wedding! That should be easy. Right?

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I often get questions about how to choose wines for a wedding. At first thought it seems simple. However, there are a myriad of considerations, some of which can seem daunting as the wedding day nears. Of course, everything depends on the time of year and style of the wedding. Then, there’s the ugly word — cost — to be considered. Often, all these are intertwined. First things first. Try to make your wine decisions before you’ve chosen a venue and put a deposit down; in fact, this should be discussed before you make that decision. Some hotels/restaurants/ clubs have contractual arrangements that require they sell you the wine from their stock (at sometimes steep prices), which drastically limits your choices. If this question is not settled before you agree on a venue, the cost can be high. Many venues, however, will allow you to bring your own wine to the event. More than likely, they will insist on charging a corkage fee, not unreasonable given that they are providing glassware and qualified service. Costs can range from $10 to $30 a bottle. But this will allow you to bring a special wine that perhaps the wedding couple favors, and thereby make the event that much more special. Of course, these same questions can be raised regarding the rehearsal dinner as well. Religious considerations may need attention, depending on whether the venue is a church or synagogue. In some cases, kosher wines may be needed. Also, as not all attendees partake of alcoholic beverages, something appropriate should be available (other than soft drinks and water) for the guests. Non-alcoholic punch bowls or non-alcoholic wines and beers are good options. Now that you have the venue taken care of, let’s look at choosing wines. A budget should be established, depending, of course, on the number of guests. Whether this budget is part of the overall catering budget or a separate entity, it should be determined early in the process. Part of this decision will be where you source the wines. Assuming you are using a local retailer, make contact early and explain your needs with an estimate of how many guests you expect. A knowledgeable retailer will be able to tell you how much wine you will need. Most retailers will provide a discount if you buy wine by the case. For a wedding, you might be able to negotiate this down a bit further based on a volume purchase. Another discussion you should have with the retailer is whether you can return any wine that is not consumed. Of course, the bottles must not have been opened (or the capsules damaged) and the labels must be un-damaged/un-stained. (That means not chilling any white wines that you may want to return.) Of course, you can now go to a big-box store to buy your wines. However, negotiated discounts and returns at these stores are most unlikely. As with

all things, there are trade-offs to be made. So, what wines to actually choose? You may want to differentiate between the wines to be served at the rehearsal dinner and those for the main event. Traditionally, that is the job of the groom’s family, but you may want to coordinate so both parties can take advantage of any deals you have made. Probably the biggest factor, other than budget, is the style of wedding and the season. Is the wedding outside? Is it a springtime event? Evening or afternoon? Self-catered or formally catered? Are you planning a big, multicourse dinner with several toasts, or a buffet, serve-yourself, all-you-can-eat function? Assuming you have a wedding planner and/or caterer, you need to coordinate these issues early, including which style of wines you would like to serve, so the caterer can pair dishes with wines. Weddings often last well into the wee hours, so any wines served need to be light and refreshing, even in the winter months. If the party is an afternoon affair, with bright sunshine and balmy temperatures, then a nice, inexpensive rosé should be considered. As far as the white wines go, regardless of the season or time of day, stay with the favorites: Light and mildly fruity sauvignon blancs, pinot grigios, or un-oaked chardonnays are always a good choice. As for reds, stay away from the big cabernet sauvignons or malbecs and favor lighter-bodied reds like pinot noirs and merlots. Your retailer should be able to help in the selections. We mentioned toasts. Are you planning several toasts or just one serious toast? For general toasts, whatever is in the glass at hand is fine. For the big, never-to-do-again, world-class toast to the happy couple, some sort of sparkling wine should be used. Of course, if money is no object, you cannot go wrong with champagne. However, assuming 200 guests, and 5 glasses per bottle, that means at least 40 bottles (rounded up to 4 cases to get the discount) of the bubbly. At $40 a bottle (or more) . . . well, you get the picture. Are there any options to champagne? Absolutely. Proseccos from Italy (the hot trend right now), Cavas from Spain, Crémants from France, and sparkling wines from many other places in the world, including New Mexico. These are all viable (and much less costly) alternatives to champagne, and, to be honest, most of the guests will not know the difference by that time of the evening anyway. You might want to up the ante and use champagne for the rehearsal dinner, as there likely will be fewer guests. If a dessert wine is desired, a lower alcohol wine, such as a Moscato d’Asti at 5 percent, is a good idea. A little prior planning and research, along with help from the wedding planner (if you use one) and/or the caterer, as well as a good retailer, will all help to make your family’s wedding something special to remember.

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Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun.  212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ CANVAS—An “interactive art bar” serving salads, sandwiches, and flatbreads.  1737 Madison. 619-5303. L, D, $ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun.   Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), pasta, and several northern Italian specialties.  149 Union, The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL—Serves chicken Bryan, calamari, various pastas, and other “old-world” Italian entrees.  4600 Merchants Park Cl., Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 854-0200; 5110 Poplar. 685-9900. L (Sat.-Sun.), D, X, $-$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 1707 Madison. 4216949; 5030 Poplar. 725-8557. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajun- and Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 2 72 S. Main. 254-8600. D, X, $-$$$ CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips.  903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue.  2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 767-4672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CHAR—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, char-broiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, #120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern staples with a Cajun twist. Menu items include “totchos,” jerk wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 2299 Young. 207-6182. L, D, $ CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/contemporary French cuisine presented in a luxurious atmosphere with a seasonal menu focused on local/regional cuisine. Afternoon tea served Wed.-Sat., 1-3 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.-Tues. T he Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, $$$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a wood-fired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, eggplant rolotini, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun.  565 Erin Dr., Erin Way Shopping Center. 205-2500. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sunday.  152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients.  5101 Sanderlin. 7297687. B, L, D, X, $ COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings.  2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122; 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville.  5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana pudding. Closed Sun.Mon. 7 35 N. Parkway. 527-9158. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, X, $ CURRY BOWL— Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross. 207-6051. L, D, $ DEJAVU—Serves Creole, soul, and vegetarian cuisine, including po-boys, jambalaya, and shrimp and grits. 51 S. Main. 505-0212. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including

CIT Y DINING LIST CASUAL DINING

These establishments offer American cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. While some serve ethnic entrees, the emphasis is on steaks, salads, sandwiches, pasta, fish and seafood. Also some soul-food and homestyle cooking. J. ALEXANDER’S—2670 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 381-9670. APPLEBEE’S—2114 Union Ave. 725-7136; 2890 Bartlett Blvd. (Bartlett). 213-5034; 710 DeSoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-7725914; 7515 Goodman Rd. (Olive Branch, MS). 662-893-7555. AJAX DINER—118 Courthouse Sq., Oxford, MS. 662-232-8880. BELLY ACRES—2102 Trimble Pl, 5297017. BLUE AND WHITE RESTAURANT—1355 U.S. 61 N., Tunica, MS. 662-363-1371. BLUE PLATE CAFE—5469 Poplar. 761-9696; 113 S. Court. 523-2050. BLUE SHOE BAR & GRILL—Hotel Memphis, 2625 Thousand Oaks Blvd. 362-6200. CAJUN CATFISH COMPANY—336 New Byhalia Rd. Collierville. 861-0122. MRA. CHEDDAR’S—2147 N. Germantown Pkwy. 380-1119. THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY—2760 N. Germantown Pkwy, Suite 193 (Wolfchase). 937-1613. CHILI’S—7810 Poplar (Germantown). 756-5203; 4609 Poplar. 685-2257; 8100

Giacosa Pl. 372-3132; 287 W. Goodman Rd. (Southaven). 662-349-7002; 237 Market Blvd. (Collierville). 853-7520; 1260 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 756-7771; 8526 Highway 51 (Millington). 872-0555. COLTON’S STEAKHOUSE—8030 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 383-8445; 8051 Goodman Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-4142. COMO STEAKHOUSE—203 Main St. Como, MS. 662-526-9529. THE COVE—2559 Broad Ave. 730-0719. THE CUPBOARD—1400 Union. 276-8015. MRA. ELWOOD’S SHACK—4523 Summer. 761-9898. MRA. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S—185 Union, Double Tree Hotel. 523-8500; 176 E. Goodman Rd. (Southaven). 662-349-4223; 7733 Winchester Rd. 752-1369; 8325 Highway 64. 372-2539. KEM’S RESTAURANT—2751 New Brunswick Rd., Holiday Inn & Suites. 2661952. LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE—2710 N. Germantown Parkway. 381-5254; 5901 Poplar. 684-2272; 7755 Winchester Rd. 759-1430; 6685 Airways Blvd. (Southaven). 662-772-5015. MAC’S BURGERS—4698 Spottswood. 512-4604. MIDTOWN CROSSING GRILLE—394 N. Watkins. 443-0502. O’CHARLEY’S—6045 Stage Rd., #74 (Bartlett). 373-5602; 1040 N. Germantown Pkw. 754-6201; 357 W. Goodman Rd. (Southaven). 662-349-6663; 656 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-5811.

lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yoghurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$ DIRTY CROW INN—Serving elevated bar food, including poutine fries, fried catfish, and the Chicken Debris, a sandwich with smoked chicken, melted cheddar, and gravy. 855 Kentucky. 2075111. L, D, $ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross, Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon.   1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. L, D, X, $-$$ EIGHTY3—Contemporary menu of steaks and seafood offers a variety of eclectic specialties; also weekly specials, small plates, appetizers, and patio dining.  83 Madison Ave. 333-1224. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak.  402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026; 9947 Wolf River (Collierville) 853-7922. L, D, X, $ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items.  2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar, Poplar Plaza. 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemon grass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday.   8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 384-0540. L, D X, $-$$ ERLING JENSEN—Presents “globally inspired” cuisine: specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees,and fresh fish dishes.  1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

THE OLIVE GARDEN—7778 Winchester. 624-2003; 8405 Highway 64, Wolfchase Galleria. 377-3437; 6615 Airways (Southaven). 662-536-3350; 5679 Poplar, #1. 761-5711. OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE— 1110 N. Germantown Parkway. 751-9800; 2255 Union Ave. 728-5100; 125 W. Goodman Rd. (Southaven). 662-349-7488. MRA. RAFFERTY’S—4542 Poplar. 374-0096; 505 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4799. RUBY TUESDAY—1653 Sycamore View. 382-9280;7535 Winchester. 7556570. SIDECAR CAFE—2194 Whitten. 388-0285. MRA. SIDE STREET GRILL—31 Florence. 274-8955. MRA. SILVER CABOOSE—132 E. Mulberry (Collierville). 853-0010. SKIMO’S—1166 N. Houston Levee, #107 (Cordova). 756-5055. MRA. SOUL FISH CAFE—862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. MRA. SPAGHETTI WAREHOUSE—40 W. Huling. 521-0907. STONEY RIVER—7515 Poplar. 2071100. TUG’S—River Inn, 51 Harbor Town Square. 260-3344. MRA. VINEGAR JIM’S—12062 Forrest (Arlington). 867-7568. WOLF RIVER CAFE—460 U.S. 194 (Rossville). 853-2586.

EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon.  630 Madison. 748-5422. L, D, X, $ EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads.   2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 6250 Stage Rd. (Bartlett). 382-3433; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544 (check online for additional locations). L, D, X, MRA, $ THE FARMER—Serving upscale Southern cuisine, with a focus on locally grown ingredients. Among the specialties are smoked beef tenderloin and shrimp and grits. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon.  3092 Poplar #11. 324-2221. L, D, X, $-$$ FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with low-country, Creole, and Delta influences, using regional fresh seafood, local beef, and locally grown foods. Entrees include shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon.  Brinkley Plaza, 80 Monroe, Suite L1. 523-0877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and tortellini are among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas (whole or by the slice), with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, X, $ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees.  8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300; 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 850-1637. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE FIVE SPOT—Tucked behind Earnestine & Hazel’s, this popular eatery features innovative bar food by chef Kelly English.   531 S. Main. 523-9754. D, X, $-$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wet-aged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day.  6245 Poplar. 7616200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR—Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as pork ribeye and roasted duck, all matched with appropriate wines; also gourmet plate lunches. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers.  105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE— Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials.  551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ A P R I L 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 91

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CIT Y DINING LIST FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-and-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Monday.  6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Closed Monday.   998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D (call to check hours.), $ FOX RIDGE PIZZA—Pizzas, calzones, subs, burgers, and meatand-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery. 1769 N. Germantown Pkwy. 758-6500. L, D, X, $ FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sunday.   750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia.   1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ FUEL CAFE—Focus is on natural dishes with such specialties as bison burgers, quinoa chili, and tacos; also vegan and gluten-free options. Closed Sun.-Mon.  1761 Madison. 725-9025. L, D, X, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-you-can-eat ribs.  2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. (Germantown). 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here.   990 N. Germantown Parkway, #104 (Cordova). 753-5488. L, D, $-$$ GRIDLEY’S—Offers barbecued ribs, shrimp, pork plate, chicken, and hot tamales; also daily lunch specials. Closed Tues.  6842 Stage Rd. (Bartlett). 377-8055. L, D, X, $-$$ FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, fillet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sunday.  Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT—This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s Special and chicken ravioli, along with lighter fare and changing daily chef selection. Closed Sun.   Sheffield Antiques Mall, 684 W. Poplar (Collierville). 850-0191. L (Mon.-Sat.), D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ THE GROVE GRILL—Offers steaks, chops, seafood, and other American cuisine with Southern and global influences; entrees include crab cakes, and shrimp and grits, also dinner specials.  4550 Poplar. 818-9951. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to a pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options.  1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 215 S. Center St. (Collierville). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-294-2028. L, D, X, MRA, $ HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as King crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location.  688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more.  385 S. Second. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ HAVANA’S PILON—Tiny eatery serving Cuban cuisine, including fried plantains in a pilon topped with shrimp, ropa vieja (shredded beef in tomato sauce), roasted pork, and a Cuban sandwich. Closed Sunday.   143 Madison. 527-2878; 3135 Kirby-Whitten, Suite 108 (Bartlett). 512-6359. L, D, X, $ HERITAGE TAVERN & KITCHEN—Featuring classic cuisine from the country’s five regions, including lobster rolls, fried chicken, smoked tamales, Green Goddess shrimp, and more.   6150 Poplar, Regalia. 761-8855.L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Monday.   477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HM DESSERT LOUNGE—Serving cake, pie, and other desserts, as well as a selection of savory dishes, including meatloaf and mashed potato “cupcakes.” Closed Sunday and Monday. 1586 Madison. 290-2099. L, D, X, $ HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. Closed for lunch Mon.  707 W. Brookhaven Cl. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$

LOCALITY GUIDE BARTLETT

Huey’s J. Alexander’s Abuelo’s Jerry Lawler’s BBQ Applebee’s Jim N Nick’s Bar-B-Q Cajun Catfish Company Joe’s Crab Shack Coletta’s Logan’s Roadhouse Colton’s Steakhouse Moe’s Southwest Grill Dixie Cafe T.J. Mulligan’s El Porton O’Charley’s Exlines’ Best Pizza Olive Garden Firebirds On the Border Gridley’s Osaka Japanese Hadley’s Pub Outback Steakhouse La Playita Mexicana Pei Wei Asian Diner O’Charley’s The Presentation Room Ruby Tuesday Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza Sekisui Rafferty’s Side Car Cafe Red Lobster Side Porch Steakhouse Romano’s Macaroni Grill Tops Bar-B-Q CHICKASAW GARDENS/ Sekisui Shogun UNIV. OF MEMPHIS Skimo’s Another Broken Egg Cafe Tannoor Grill A-Tan DOWNTOWN The Bluff Agave Maria Brother Juniper’s Aldo’s Pizza Pies Camy’s Alfred’s Char The Arcade Cheffie’s Automatic Slim’s Derae Bangkok Alley El Porton Bardog Tavern The Farmer B.B. King’s Blues Club La Baguette Bedrock Eats & Sweets Los Compadres Belle — A Southern Bistro Lost Pizza Bleu Medallion Blind Bear Speakeasy Newby’s Blue Monkey Newk’s Bluefin Osaka Japanese Blues City Cafe Pete & Sam’s Brass Door Irish Pub Rock’n Dough Pizza Cafe 7/24 R.P. Tracks Cafe Eclectic Sweet Potato Baby Cafe Cafe Keough Woman’s Exchange COLLIERVILLE/WEST TN. Cafe Pontotoc Capriccio (ARLINGTON, COVINGTON, Catherine & Mary’s MILLINGTON, OAKLAND) Central BBQ 148 North Chez Philippe Bangkok Alley City Market Bonefish Grill Cozy Corner Bozo’s Hot Pit Bar-B-Q DeJaVu Brooks Pharm2Fork Dirty Crow Inn Cafe Piazza Double J Smokehouse & Saloon Cajun Catfish Company Earnestine & Hazel’s Carrabba’s Italian Grill Eighty3 Chili’s Felicia Suzanne’s Ciao Baby Ferraro’s Pizzeria Corky’s Five Spot Crepe Maker Flight El Mezcal Flying Fish El Porton Flying Saucer Emerald Thai T.G.I. Friday’s Firebirds Ronnie Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant Green Beetle Gus’s Gus’s Fried Chicken Happy Mexican Hickory Tavern Hard Rock Cafe Huey’s Havana’s Pilon Jim’s Place Grille Huey’s Long Road Cider Co. Itta Bena Manila Filipino Jerry Lee Lewis’ Cafe & Honky Tonk Mulan King’s Palace Cafe Osaka Japanese Kooky Canuck Memphis Pizza Cafe Little Tea Shop Pig-N-Whistle Local The Sear Shack Loflin Yard Sekisui Lookout at the Pyramid Silver Caboose Luna Restaurant & Lounge Stix Maciel’s Tortas & Tacos Vinegar Jim’s Max’s Sports Bar Wolf River Cafe McEwen’s on Monroe CORDOVA The Majestic Bahama Breeze Mesquite Chop House Bombay House Mollie Fontaine Lounge Bonefish Grill The Office@Uptown Butcher Shop Paulette’s Cheddar’s Pearl’s Oyster House Chili’s Pig on Beale Corky’s Rendezvous, Charles Vergos’ Crazy Italians Rizzo’s Diner East End Grill Rum Boogie Cafe El Mezcal Silky O’Sullivan’s El Porton South of Beale T.G.I. Friday’s South Main Sushi & Grill Flying Saucer Spaghetti Warehouse Fox Ridge Pizza Spindini Green Bamboo The Terrace Gus’s Texas de Brazil Happy Mexican Tug’s Hunan Palace

Tuscany Italian Eatery Twilight Sky Terrace Uncle Buck’s Fishbowl & Grill Westy’s

EAST MEMPHIS

Acre Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen Asian Palace Bangkok Alley Belmont Grill Blue Plate Cafe Broadway Pizza Brookhaven Pub & Grill Buckley’s Fine Filet Grill Buntyn Corner Cafe Carrabba’s Italian Grill Casablanca Central B B Q Chili’s Ciao Bella City East Corky’s Dixie Cafe El Mezcal El Porton Fino’s from the Hill Folk’s Folly Fox & Hound Fratelli’s The Grove Grill Half Shell Hog & Hominy Houston’s Huey’s Interim Erling Jensen Jim’s Place The Kitchen Bistro Las Delicias Lisa’s Lunchbox LYFE Kitchen Lynchburg Legends Marciano Mayuri Indian Cuisine Dan McGuinness Pub Mellow Mushroom Memphis Pizza Cafe Mempops Mortimer’s Mosa Asian Bistro Napa Cafe Neil’s New Hunan Old Venice One & Only BBQ Park + Cherry Patrick’s Pimento’s Pizza Rev Porcellino’s Craft Butcher Rafferty’s The Sear Shack Sekisui Pacific Rim Soul Fish Cafe Staks Taziki’s Mediterranean Cafe Three Little Pigs Wasabi Whole Foods Market Zaka Bowl

GERMANTOWN

Belmont Grill The Cheesecake Factory Chili’s City East El Porton Exlines’ Best Pizza Germantown Comm. Mellow Mushroom Memphis Pizza Cafe Mesquite Chop House New Asia The Pasta Maker Petra Cafe Rock’n Dough Pizza Royal Panda Russo’s New York Pizzeria & Wine Bar Sakura Soul Fish Cafe Southern Social Stoney River Steakhouse and Grill West Street Diner

MEDICAL CENTER The Cupboard Evelyn & Olive Sabor Caribe Sabrosura

Tops Bar-B-Q Trolley Stop Market

MIDTOWN

901 Grille & Market Abyssinia Alchemy Aldo’s Pizza Pies Alex’s Applebee’s Babalu Tacos and Tapas Bar DKDC Bar Louie Bar-B-Q Shop Bari Barksdale Restaurant Bayou Bar & Grill Beauty Shop Belly Acres Bhan Thai Blue Nile Ethiopian Boscos Bounty on Broad Broadway Pizza House Cafe 1912 Cafe Brooks by Paradox Cafe Eclectic Cafe Ole Cafe Palladio Cafe Society Canvas Casablanca Celtic Crossing Central B B Q Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe The Cove Cozy Corner The Crazy Noodle The Cupboard Dino’s DWJ Korean Barbecue Ecco El Mezcal Fino’s from the Hill Frida’s Fuel Cafe Golden India Growlers HM Dessert Lounge Huey’s I Love Juice Bar Imagine Vegan Cafe India Palace Izakaya Jasmine Thai Java Cabana Lafayette’s Music Room LBOE Little Italy Local Mardi Gras Memphis Maximo’s on Broad Memphis Pizza Cafe Midtown Crossing Grille Molly’s La Casita Mulan Chinese Bistro Murphy’s Old Zinnie’s Onix Otherlands Outback Steakhouse P & H Cafe Peabody Point Cafe Pei Wei Asian Diner Pho Binh Pho Saigon Restaurant Iris Robata Ramen & Yakitori Bar Schweinehaus The Second Line Sekisui Side Street Grill The Slider Inn Soul Fish Cafe Stone Soup Strano Sicilian Kitchen Sweet Grass Tart Tsunami Young Avenue Deli

NORTH MISSISSIPPI Ajax Diner Applebee’s Blue and White Bonne Terre Catfish Blues Chili’s City Grocery Colton’s Steakhouse

Como Steakhouse Corky’s Fox & Hound Huey’s Lee’s Family Restaurant Logan’s Roadhouse Lost Pizza McEwen’s Dan McGuinness Pub Memphis Barbecue Company Memphis Pizza Cafe Mesquite Chop House Nagoya O’Charley’s Olive Garden Osaka Japanese Cuisine Outback Steakhouse Ravine STEAK by Melissa

PARKWAY VILLAGE/ FOX MEADOWS Blue Shoe Bar & Grill Leonard’s Jack Pirtle’s Chicken Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q

POPLAR/I-240

Amerigo Benihana Blue Plate Cafe Brooklyn Bridge Capital Grille, The City Silo Table + Pantry P.F. Chang’s Chipotle Exlines’ Best Pizza Fleming’s Frank Grisanti’s Happy Mexican Heritage Tavern & Kitchen Julles Posh Food Co. Mister B’s Olive Garden One & Only BBQ Owen Brennan’s Pyro’s Fire-Fresh Pizza Red Koi River Oaks Ruth’s Chris Salsa Seasons 52 Sekisui Wang’s Mandarin House

RALEIGH

Exline’s Best Pizza

SOUTH MEMPHIS Coletta’s The Four Way Interstate Bar-B-Q Jack Pirtle’s Chicken

SUMMER/BERCLAIR Bryant’s The Cottage Elwood’s Shack High Point Pizza La Taqueria Guadalupana Lotus Nagasaki Inn Pancho’s Panda Garden Queen of Sheba Tops Bar-B-Q

WEST MEMPHIS/ EASTERN ARK.

The Cupboard Pancho’s Sammy Hagar’s Red Rocker Bar & Grill

WHITEHAVEN Delta’s Kitchen Hong Kong Marlowe’s

WINCHESTER

Curry Bowl DWJ Korean Barbecue East End Grill Formosa Half Shell Happy Mexican Huey’s Logan’s Roadhouse Olive Garden Red Lobster Ruby Tuesday T.G.I. Friday’s Tops Bar-B-Q Tycoon

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CIT Y DINING LIST

HONG KONG—Cantonese and Mandarin standards are sweet-andsour chicken, and pepper beef. Closed Sunday.  3966 Elvis Presley. 396-0801. L, D, X, $ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip.   5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$  I LOVE JUICE BAR—Serving an extensive line of juices and graband-go lunch items. 553 S. Cooper. 612-2720. L, D, X, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, breakfast items served all day. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, SB, X, $ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily lunch buffet.  1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ INTERIM—Offers American-seasonal cuisine with emphasis on local foods and fresh fish; macaroni and cheese is a house specialty. Closed for lunch Sat.  5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped porkshoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662393-5699. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served here; specialties are filet Oscar and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta.  145 Beale St. 578-3031. D,X, MRA, $$-$$$  IZAKAYA—This fine dining Asian fusion steakhouse, located in the historic 19th Century Club mansion, serves sushi and a variety of steakhouse-style dishes, such as Wagyu beef steaks, pasta, and seafood.  1433 Union. 454-3926. L, D, X, $-$$$ JASMINE THAI AND VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT— Entrees include panang chicken, green curry shrimp,and pad thai (noodles, shrimp, and peanuts); also vegetarian dishes. Closed Mon.Tues.  916 S. Cooper. 725-0223. L, D, X, $ JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$ JIM’S PLACE/JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine with such entrees as pork tenderloin, several seafood specialties, and hand-cut charcoal-grilled steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.  518 Perkins Extd. 766-2030; 3660 Houston Levee (Collierville). 861-5000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ JOE’S CRAB SHACK—Serves a variety of seafood, along with chicken, steak, and pasta.  7990 Horizon Center Blvd. 384-7478. L, D, X, $-$$$ JULLES POSH FOOD CO.—The changing menu features seasonal “cooking light� dishes such as salmon-shrimp cakes with green salad and roasted sweet potato wedges; also cold-pressed juices, to-go dishes, and desserts.   6300 Poplar. 509-8675. B, L, D, X, $-$$ KING JERRY LAWLER’S MEMPHIS BBQ CO.—Offers a variety of barbecue dishes, including brisket, ribs, nachos topped with smoked pork, and a selection of barbecue “Slamwiches.�   465 N. Germantown Pkwy., #116 (Cordova). 509-2360. L, D, X, $ THE KITCHEN BISTRO—Tomato soup, grilled fish, sticky toffee pudding, and dishes made using in-season fruits and veggies are served at this establishment at Shelby Farms Park. 415 Great View Drive E., Suite 101. 729-9009. L, D, X, $-$$ KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga�; also late-night menu. 87 S. Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun.  3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LA PLAYITA MEXICANA—Specializes in seafood and Mexican entrees, including red snapper, tilapia, oysters, chimichangas, tostadas, and taco salad. 6194 Macon (Bartlett). 377-2282. L, D, X, $-$$ LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, $ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po boys and shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas; also live music. 2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sunday. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA—Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas tostados and such sides as steamed corn. Closed Sunday.  1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200. L, D, X, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $

Celebrating 41 years of good times! Come for the game, stay for the great food and the BEST BEER IN TOWN. See and hear local music. LISTEN TO THE EDDIE SMITH BAND EVERY WEDNESDAY NIGHT. OPEN DAILY 11 A.M.-3 A.M.

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Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2017

FACE OF

PIZZA

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CIT Y DINING LIST LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings. and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet.  5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, MRA, $-$$ LISA’S LUNCHBOX—Serving bagels, sandwiches, salads, and wraps.   5030 Poplar, 761-4044; 5885 Ridgeway Center Pkwy., Suite 101. 767-6465; 2659 Thousand Oaks Blvd., Suite 1200; 2525 Central (Children’s Museum). B, L, $ LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes.   1495 Union. 725-0280, L, D, X, $-$$ THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomatoes. Closed Sat.-Sun.   69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ LOCAL GASTROPUB—Entrees with a focus on locally grown products include lobster mac-and-cheese and pork osso bucco. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 725-1845. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and barbecue restaurant with barbecue and vegetarian fare cooked on a custom-made grill.  7 W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, $-$$ LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black eye peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cidersteamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun. through Wed.  9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $ THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves Southern fare, including catfish tacos and crawfish tails. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 6204600/291-8200. L, D, X $-$$$ LOS COMPADRES—Serves enchiladas, burritos, tamales, tacos, and vegetarian dishes; also Cuban entrees.  3295 Poplar. 458-5731. L, D, X, $-$$ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more.  2855 Poplar. 5721803; 5960 Getwell, Southaven. 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli.  4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $ LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include Citrus Glaze Salmon and Cajun Stuffed Chicken. Closed for lunch Sat. Breakfast only on Sun.  179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ LYFE KITCHEN—Serving healthy, affordable wraps, bowls, sandwiches, and more; entrees include roasted salmon and “unfried” chicken. 6201 Poplar. 684-5333; 272 S. Main. 526-0254. B, L, D, WB, X, $ LYNCHBURG LEGENDS—This restaurant with a Jack Daniels’ theme and Southern cuisine serves such entrees as Bourbon Street salmon, buttermilk-fried chicken, and grilled steak and wild mushroom salad. DoubleTree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 969-7777. B, L, D, X, MRA, $- $$$ MACIEL’S TORTAS & TACOS—Entrees include tortas, hefty Mexican sandwiches filled with choice of chicken, pork, or steak. Also serving fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037. L, D, X, $ THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Housed in a former silent-picture house, features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theatre menu and classic cocktails. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. 7 849 Rockford (Millington). 209-8525. L, D, X, $ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Rack of lamb with roasted potatoes and demi-glace is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza.  780 Brookhaven Cl. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$
 MARDI GRAS MEMPHIS—Serving Cajun fare, including an etouffee-stuffed po’boy.  496 Watkins. 530-6767. L, D, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagne, and more.  4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine. Closed Mon. and Tues.  2617 Broad Ave. 4521111. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat.  6524 Quince Rd. 7538755. L, D, X, $-$$ MCEWEN’S ON MONROE—Southern/American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location.   120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner

T UNICA TA BLES CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY /662-357-1225. FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711 JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ —711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, ext 8213.

specials.  4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662890-7611. L, D, X, $ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap.  9155 Poplar, Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243; 5138 Park Ave. 562-1211. L, D, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket, along with such sides as mac and cheese, grits, and red beans.   709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads.  2087 Madison. 7265343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ MEMPOPS—Specializes in handcrafted popsicles. Cream and fruit pop flavors include Mexican Chocolate and Hibiscus Lemonade; menu changes.  1243 Ridgeway. 421-5985. L, D, X, $ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 2495661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon.  6655 Poplar, #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues.  679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, $ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties.  2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, several chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. Closed for lunch Sat.Sun.  590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/fusion entrees.   850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $ MULAN—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; some sushi, too.  2059 Houston Levee (Collierville). 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table.  3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes.  7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$
 NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken.   4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $
 NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties is miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.  5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ NEW ASIA—Specializing in authentic Chinese food, including roast Peking duck.  2075 Exeter, Suite 90. 758-8388. L, D, X, $ NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees;also lunch/dinner buffets.  5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ THE OFFICE@UPTOWN—Offering sandwiches, wraps, pizza, soups, salads, and several vegetarian options. Closed Sunday.  594 N. Second St. 522-1905. B, L, D, X, $

OLD VENICE PIZZA CO.—Specializes in “eclectic Italian,” from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 60 toppings.  368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ ON THE BORDER—Dishes out such Tex-Mex specialties as fajitas and Southwest chicken tacos; also fresh grilled seafood specials.  8101 Giacosa Pl. (Cordova).881-0808; 6572 Airways (Southaven). 662655-4750. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, and more.  1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, MRA, $ ONIX RESTAURANT—Serves seafood dishes, including barbecued shrimp and pecan-crusted trout, and a variety of salads and sandwiches. Closed Sun. 1680 Madison. 552-4609. L, D, X, $-$$ OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call.   3670 Houston Levee (Collierville). 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross. 662-890-9312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$   OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sunday.  The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PANCHO’S—Serves up a variety of Mexican standards, including tacos, enchiladas, and mix-and-match platters; also lunch specials.  3600 E. Broadway (West Memphis). 870-735-6466. 717 N. White Station. 685-5404. L, D, X, MRA, $ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday.  3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$ PARK + CHERRY—Partnering with chefs Wally Joe and Andrew Adams of Acre Restaurant, the Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Menu features sandwiches, like truffled pimento cheese, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed Monday. 4 339 Park (Dixon Gallery). 761-5250. L, X, $ THE PASTA MAKER—This Italian eatery specializes in artisanal pasta. Entrees include Spaghetti allo scoglio, Penne Boscaiola, and Fusilli Primavera. Gluten-free options available. Restaurant closed Sunday (cooking classes by reservation).  2095 Exeter, Suite 30 (Germantown). 779-3928. L, D, X, $-$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter-pepper cream sauce and popovers with strawberry butter; also changing daily specials. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEABODY POINT CAFE—Serves dinner salads, paninis, and pasta. Entrees include lasagna and build-your-own pasta dishes with choice of noodles and sauce. 2 43 Cooper. 722-2700. D, X, $ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes.  299 S. Main. 522-9070. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEI WEI ASIAN DINER—Serves a variety of Pan-Asian cuisine, including Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean, and Thai. Noodle and rice bowls are specialties; a small plates menu also offered.  1680 Union Ave., #109. 722-3780; 2257 N. Germantown Pkwy. 382-1822. L, D, X, $-$$
 PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala.  3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar (Germantown). 754-4440; 9155 Poplar (Germantown). 7555440. L, D, X, $-$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant.  1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday. 1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes.   6084 KerrRosemark Rd. (Millington). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ PIZZA REV—Specializes in build-your-own, personal-sized artisanal pizza. Choose from homemade dough options, all-natural sauces, Italian cheeses, and more than 30 toppings.   6450 Poplar. 379-8188. L, D, X, $

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CIT Y DINING LIST PORCELLINO’S CRAFT BUTCHER—Small plates, charcuterie selections, specialty steaks, house-made pastries, and innovative teas and coffees are offered at this combination butcher shop and restaurant featuring locally sourced menu items.   711 W. Brookhaven Cl. 762-6656. B, L, D, X $-$$ PRESENTATION ROOM, THE—American bistro run by the students of L’Ecole Culinaire. Menu changes regularly; specialties may include such items as a filet with truffle mushroom ragu. Closed Fri.Sun. 1245 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-7115. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven; wide choice of toppings; large local and craft beer selection. 1 199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 2088857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. 207-1198. B, L, D, X, MRA, $ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 5 3 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-2344555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables.   5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ RED LOBSTER—Specializes in crab legs, lobster, and shrimp dishes; also pastas, salads, steaks, and chicken.  8161 Highway 64 (Cordova). 387-0056; 6535 Airways (Southaven). 662-536-1960; 7750 Winchester. 759-9045. L, D, X, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon.  52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.Sat.), D, X, MRA, $-$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole cuisine includes shrimp and delta-grind grits, and New York strip stuffed with fried oysters and blue cheese. Closed Sun. 2146 Monroe. 590-2828. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ RIVER OAKS—A French-style bistro serving seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.  5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, MRA, $$$ RIVERFRONT BAR & GRILL—Beale Street Landing eatery serves Southern American specialties, including Tom Lee Catfish, and Tennessee Caviar, a fresh veggie salsa of black-eyed peas and cilantro with pimento cheese and toast points; also sausage-cheese appetizer. Closed Monday.   251 Riverside Dr. 524-0817. L, D, X, $ RIZZO’S DINER—Chorizo meatloaf, lobster pronto puff, and brisket are menu items at this upscale diner, Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.   492 S. Main. 304-6985. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes, and sake.   2116 Madison. 410-8290. D, WB, X, $ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 3445 Poplar Ave., Ste. 1. 512-6760; 7850 Poplar, #6 (Germantown). 7792008. L, D, SB, X, $$ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL—Serves MediterraneanItalian cuisine, including hand-crafted pasta Milano and penne rustica, and create-your-own pasta; also steaks, seafood, and salads.  2859 N. Germantown Pk wy. (Cordova). 266-4565. L, D, X, $-$$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties.   3120 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ RUSSO’S NEW YORK PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR— Serves gourmet pizzas, calzones, and pasta, including lasagna, fettuccine Alfredo, scampi, and more.  9087 Poplar, Suite 111. 7550092. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster.  6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday.  662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican.   782 Washington. 421-8180. B, L, D, X, $-$$ SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. (Germantown). 758-8181. 4840 Poplar. 572-1002. L, D, X, $-$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun.  Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SCHWEINEHAUS BBQ—Serving barbecue and Bavarianinfluenced fare with a Southern twist; includes wurst platters, pork schnitzel, smoked brisket, pulled pork, and more. 2110 Madison. 347-3060. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$

F A S T- C A S U A L

Fresh cuisine prepared while you wait and served in an upscale setting. Not your typical fast-food restaurants, most serve beer, wine, and liquor. CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL—5865 Poplar, Ridgeway Trace, #104. 416-1944; 2760 N. Germantown Pkwy. 620-0469. CRAZY ITALIANS—1250 N. Germantown Pkwy., #105 (Cordova). 347-2449. CREPE MAKER—4630 Merchants Park Cir., #731 (Collierville). 861-1981. GENGHIS GRILL—2362 N. Germantown Parkway. 584-0412; 7706 Winchester. 522-5048; 5849 Poplar, #117, Ridgeway Trace. 308-4040. MRA. HUMDINGERS—6300 Poplar. 260-8292; 1134 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 271-2912. MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL— 465 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-5058. 6300 Poplar Ave., #108. 685-5685; 3660 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 457-7227; 3546 Walker. 590-0192. THE PASTA KITCHEN—875 W. Poplar (Collierville). 316-5119. SWANKY’S TACO SHOP—6641 Poplar (Germantown). 737-2088; 4770 Poplar. 730-0763; 711 Southcrest Pkwy, #101 (Southaven). 662-655-0662. MRA. TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFE— 540 S. Mendenhall. 290-1091.

THE SEAR SHACK BURGERS & FRIES—Serving Angus burgers, fries, and hand-spun milkshakes. Closed Mon. 875 W. Poplar, Suite 6 (Collierville). 861-4100; 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 103. 567-4909. L, D, X, $ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$ THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his new eatery; serves a variety of po-boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, and andouille, shrimp, and pimento cheese fries.   2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 2 5 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar (between Perkins & Colonial). 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 Kirby-Whitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun.-Mon.  5689 Stage Rd. (Bartlett). 3772484. D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. (Germantown). 754-5555. D, X, $-$$$ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more.  520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $ SPINDINI—Italian fusion cuisine with such entrees as wood-fired pizzas, gorgonzola stuffed filet, and fresh seafood; pizza specials on Mon.; large domestic whiskey selection.   383 S. Main. 578-2767. D, X, $$-$$$ STAKS— Offering pancakes, including Birthday Cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch.  4615 Poplar. 509-2367. B, L, WB, X, $ STEAK BY MELISSA—Aged, choice-grade, hand-cut steaks are a specialty here. Also serving fresh seafood dishes, plate lunches, burgers, and sandwiches. 4975 Pepper Chase Dr. (Southaven). 662-342-0602. L, D, X, $-$$$ STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice.   4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 854-3399. L, D, X, $-$$

STONE SOUP CAFE—Cooper-Young eatery serving soups, salads, quiche, meat-and-two specials; and daily specials such as Italian roast beef. Closed Monday.  993 S. Cooper. 922-5314. B, L, SB, X, $ STRANO SICILIAN KITCHEN & BAR—Presenting a Sicilian/Mediterranean mix of Arab, Spanish, Greek, and North African fare, Strano serves small plates, wood-grilled fish, and hand-tossed pizzas such as the King Alaska, with salmon and chevre. Closed Mon.   948 S. Cooper. 275-8986. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ SWEET GRASS—Low-country coastal cuisine includes such specialties as shrimp and grits. Closed Mon. The restaurant’s “sister,” Sweet Grass Next Door, open nightly, serves lunch Sat.-Sun.  937 S. Cooper. 278-0278. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ SWEET POTATO BABY CAFE—The eggplant Parmesan panini and mac-and-cheese hushpuppies are among popular dishes offered. Menu includes a variety of desserts, including Sweet Potato Baby Cake. Closed Sat. and Sun.  1005 Tillman. 608-1742. L, D, X, $ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available.   830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$ TART—Combination patisserie, coffeehouse, and restaurant serving rustic French specialties, including baked eggs in brioche, topped with Gruyere, and french breads and pastries.   820 S. Cooper. 725-0091. B, L, WB, X, $-$$ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such entrees as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, five-spice salmon, and grilled vegetarian eggplant; also small plates.  Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings.  150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, SB, X, $$-$$$ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans.   5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, MRA, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers.  1286 Union. 725-7527. 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, MRA, $ TROLLEY STOP MARKET—Serves plate lunches/dinners as well as pizzas, salads, and vegan/vegetarian entrees; a specialty is the locally raised beef burger. Also sells fresh produce and goods from local farmers; delivery available. Saturday brunch; closed Sunday.   704 Madison. 526-1361. L, D, X, $ TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday.   928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ TUSCANY ITALIAN EATERY—Serves classic Italian dishes. Menu includes paninis, deli subs and wraps, pasta, soups, and more. Closed Sunday.  116 S. Front. 626-8848. L, D, X, $ TWILIGHT SKY TERRACE—Offers small plates of tostados, nachos, flatbreads, paninis; also hand-crafted cocktails and sweeping rooftop views of the downtown Memphis skyline. Open, weather permitting.   The Madison Hotel, 79 Madison. 333-1224. L (Sat.Sun.), D, WB.X, $ TYCOON—Among the Asian entrees are spicy garlic shrimp, Thai gumbo, and special house noodle soup.  3307 Kirby Parkway. 3628788. B, L, D, X, $ UNCLE BUCK’S FISHBOWL & GRILL—Burgers, pizza, fish dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting.   Bass Pro, Bass Pro Drive, 291-8200. L, D, X, $-$$ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the goldensesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist.  6065 Park Ave, Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty.  5101 Sanderlin Road, Suite 105. 421-6399. L, D, X, $-$$ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. (Germantown). 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, MRA, $ WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.Sun.  88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $ ZAKA BOWL—This vegan restaurant serves build-your-own vegetable bowls featuring ingredients such as agave Brussels sprouts and roasted beets. 575 Erin. 509-3105. L, D, $

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LAST STAND

Mission Finally Accomplished Sometimes technology can be balked by a bolt.

F

or a couple of weeks last fall, I received robocalls from the power company about the new smart meters their contractor would be installing. “Workers will be in your neighborhood,” a voice declared. “Please be sure any gates are unlocked and dogs are secured …”

It’s been a few years since I first heard about those meters — electronic gadgets touted to give more accurate accounts of how much electricity we use. They sparked quite a controversy as irate folks wrote testy letters to the editor. Seems the naysayers didn’t want the smart meters, didn’t need ’em, didn’t trust ’em. But as sometimes happens with small controversies, bigger ones rear their heads, and that one eventually died away. One morning when I was outside watering the front yard, a vehicle pulled up at the curb and a young man emerged. “I’m here to install your smart meter,” he said, showing his ID with a smile and a nod. I thanked him, went on with my watering, then left the house to run an errand or two. I returned to find the man had gone and a card was tucked inside my storm door. In bold print were the words “INSTALLATION UNSUCCESSFUL” — no reason given. I called the number on the card, more out of curiosity than disappointment. A woman on the line told me, “I can’t say why it failed.” I didn’t much like that word failed, but I let it go. “I’ll try to find out and get back to you.” She never did. A week or two passed, and another young man appeared at my front door. Pleasant, neat, eager to please: “I’m here to install your smart meter!” I told him about the last attempt and the message left on the card. “I’ll get that fixed for you, ma’am!” “All righty then.”

A few minutes later he was back at my door, crestfallen. “Can’t do it, ma’am. Can’t get the old meter off. Seems you’ve got a bolt through that meter.” “A bolt?” “Yes, ma’am. I took a picture of it.” He showed it to me and beamed when I said, mainly to be kind, “Well, that’s real good.” “Gonna show it to my supervisor, gonna get that bolt out for you.” Two more weeks passed and here came another cheerful fellow who said to call him Kevin. “I’m here to install your smart meter.” “Good luck with that,” I told Kevin. He didn’t ask why he’d need it. But soon he was back saying, “You’ve got a bolt through that meter.” “So I’ve heard.” And I advised him of the previous attempts to remove the old meter. “Can you not get the bolt out?” “No ma’am. But I took a picture of it,” and he showed me an image of himself staring at the meter looking concerned, even a bit sad. “Gonna show it to my supervisor.” “Nice touch, that selfie,” I said, thinking my bolt-ridden meter already boasted quite a little photo gallery. “Let’s walk around here so I can see it.” Sure enough, underneath the plastic dome was the infamous metal rod securing the timeworn gadget they wanted to replace. “Wonder why that’s in there,” I asked. Just then he snapped a photo of me. “No sir, delete that,” I told him. How I despise those cell-phone closeups with my nose like a zucchini

“You have a bolt through your meter.” By then, the phrase echoed through my mind like a rock song. My head bobbed a little to the beat.

and eyelids drooping to my chin. “Delete it now.” “Yes ma’am” — and I watched as he obeyed. “I just thought my supervisor might appreciate the personal touch, seeing the customer and how much she wants our smart meter.” A few hours later I received a call from a man who identified himself as Kevin’s supervisor. He said, “Ma’am, I understand you have a bolt through your meter.” By then, the phrase echoed through my mind like a rock song. My head bobbed a little to the beat. “Well, we’re gonna take care of that for you. I’ll be sending you a form to complete about how that bolt came to be there.” “You’re gonna do . . . what? But I don’t have a clue how it got there!” “Just complete the form, ma’am, the best you can.” And he hung up. I never got a form. Later I asked a few people if they have a smart meter and, if so, could they tell any difference in

their bill. One friend said she had one, but no, her bill was about the same. Another said, “Yeah, I think I do. What does it look like?” As if I would know! The other night an old Cheers rerun was on TV and my attention was caught by the chatter at the bar. Norm, Cliff, and Woody were actually discussing bolts, not in utility meters but in the floor of the Boston Garden where the Celtics play. Apparently that floor was secured with thousands of bolts, and those wacky guys left their barstools and headed out to count them. A day or so later — a few months after the robocalls started coming — I got to thinking about the meter and I went out to the side of the house. Kinda like Norm and the gang, I couldn’t get that bolt off my mind. What I expected to see was that same old meter pierced to the wall. But lo and behold! There in its place was a fine new high-tech job labeled a Smart Grid, apparently installed one day when I wasn’t home. And without so much as a card in my storm door declaring “installation successful”! Gee, I’d have thought after the dead-ends Kevin and his cohorts kept hitting, they’d have been crowing over finally making me smart, probably even filming a YouTube video insisting that I star in it. And what if I’d called the company to complain that I was still waiting for my upgrade? Why, they may have signed me up for a stupid meter. Well, I’m glad it’s done. And if I should ever see any of those bright-eyed young men again I’ll thank them for not giving up. I’ll also ask them, “Just where is my bolt?” Marilyn Sadler is a former senior editor of Memphis magazine. She has not yet counted the bolts in the floor of FedExForum.

PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHAN PIETZKO | DREAMSTIME

by marilyn sadler

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