T H E PA S TA MAKER RESTAURANT
RESTAURANT WE MISS THE MOST ANDERTON’S EAST JIM’S PLACE EAST JUSTINE’S JARRETT’S RONNIE GRISANTI’S / MIDTOWN JOHN GRISANTI’S STEAK AND ALE CAFÉ EXPRESSO FOUR FLAMES LULU GRILLE
Near the front of the restaurant, Lightning King makes artisanal pasta at The Pasta Maker in Germantown, where chef Michele D’Oto and partner Laura Derrick serve pizza flatbreads and pasta dishes reminiscent of D’Oto’s birthplace in Modena, Italy.
R
ejoice, Germantown pasta lovers. Chef Michele D’Oto has relocated from Cordova, bringing his big personality, Sunday afternoon cooking classes, and chef-driven cuisine to Exeter Village Shopping Center. Simply put: Life in the ‘burbs is good. To be honest, I was a little worried when I heard D’Oto and his partner Laura Derrick closed their former restaurant Pasta Italia, but the couple understands change. They’ve been displaced by Hur-
ricane Katrina, opened a restaurant on the Collierville square, and moved briefly to Chattanooga. The couple’s latest venture, however, feels more permanent, a friendly and affordable venue with food that replicates the authenticity of D’Oto’s birthplace in Modena, Italy, the home of Ferraris and balsamic vinegar. House-made artisanal pasta and toppings to match are at the heart of D’Oto’s menu, served for dinner and lunch. On a recent visit, we tried four different dishes, and each one was a
happy union between garnish, sauce, and pasta. Across the menu, D’Oto elevates simple combinations with fresh ingredients into memorable and pretty plates. Yes, the meat lasagna and Rosette al Forno are exceptional, but don’t skip linguini Pomodoro, where the pasta — paper-thin and effortless — twirls on a fork like a Bolshoi ballerina on an endless pirouette. — Pamela Denney
BEST NEW RESTAURANT (OPENED SINCE NOVEMBER 2015) LOFLIN YARD CHAR RESTAURANT CATHERINE & MARY’S THE KITCHEN BISTRO BUNTYN CORNER CAFÉ FINO’S EAST MAXIMO’S ON BROAD THE PASTA MAKER RESTAURANT DIRTY CROW INN MACIEL’S TORTAS & TACOS
2095 EXETER RD., GERMANTOWN (901-799-3928) F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 7 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 41
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