Columbia Eats! Fall 2023
Issue 2: From the Dining Table
Who we are Columbia Eats! Magazine is Columbia University’s first and only food publication, dedicated to sharing restaurants, recipes, stories, and more with the undergraduate community. We promote food and culture from around New York City and beyond. Our team is composed of students from all four undergraduate schools, brought together by our shared love for all things food. Follow us on Instagram @columbiaeatsmagazine or contact us at columbiaeatsmagazine@gmail.com to get involved!
GENERAL BODY ALISSA CHEN (Writing & Editing) ALLISON SU (Writing & Editing) ARPITA IYER (Writing & Editing)
CECELIA FATTA (Writing & Editing) JINNY YOON (Writing & Editing) MAY SHAIR (Writing & Editing)
OLYMPIA GONZALEZ (Writing & Editing) RIA BASU (Writing & Editing) ARJUN KALIA (PR & Social Media)
CHARIS YOON (PR & Social Media) SOPHIA STRUGNELL (PR & Social Media) ALEXANDRA PAIZ (Finance & Funding)
KATE DARLING (Finance & Funding) ZOE HERMAN (Finance & Funding) EMMA O’CONNOR (Graphics & Layout)
NATALIA SCHEINFELD (Graphics & Layout) SOPHIA LOPEZ (Graphics & Layout) MACEY STANCATO (Graphics & Layout)
2023 EXECUTIVE BOARD Emani Fung Editor-in-Chief
SARA CHOUGH Managing Editor
SLOANE GOLDBERG Writing & Editing Chair
Emani is a junior in Columbia College majoring in EconomicsPolitical Science. A proud New Jerseyan, Emani can usually be found somewhere arguing about why NJ bagels are superior to New York’s in literally every way. She’s obsessed with poke and has probably spent all her Dining Dollars at Café East by now. She loves exploring, writing, and trying new things, especially when those activities involve a good meal.
Sara is a senior in Columbia College studying Neuroscience and Behavior on the pre-med track. A New York City native, Sara is a self-proclaimed foodie who is always on the lookout for the best new restaurants. Sara is a strong proponent of the “phone eats first” rule and is particularly partial to Korean cuisine. She loves watching food and travel content in her spare time.
Sloane is a junior in Columbia College studying Neuroscience & Behavior and Linguistics. In her free time you can find her eating chocolate croissants in Blue Bottle, baking a cake in her dorm kitchen, or telling everyone that she’s from Seattle.
JESSIE HUANG Finance & Funding Chair
ISABELLA POLSFUSS P.R. & Social Media Chair
MARJORIE KREYNIN Graphics & Layout Chair
Jessie is a freshman in the School of Engineering and Applied Sciences studying Biomedical Engineering from Bay Area, California. She particularly enjoys Chinese food that is not spicy and commits to taking photos of them before eating.
Isabella is a pre-med junior in the School of Engineering and Applied Science studying Biomedical Engineering. She’s from San Diego, CA and is a big foodie (although she admits her inability to cook anything except microwave popcorn). Her favorite dish is her mom’s homemade tacos, and she loves checking out new restaurants in the city, especially Italian and sushi.
Marjorie is an Economics major with an Art History concentration in the Columbia College class of 2025. She has lived in New York City her entire life and loves to explore new restaurants. Her favorites in the City are Momoya and Sarabeths!
Letter from the Editor Dear Foodies, Have you ever wondered what life would be like without dining tables? Where would you eat your meals? Where would you connect with loved ones? Where would you exasperatedly throw your keys and your coat after a long day? Dinnertime, a designated haven for rest and relaxation, would never be the same. Eating would become a simple act of subsistence, a biological necessity. Families would have nowhere to say grace and nowhere to spill tea. Without a designated dining space, we would have nowhere to pause amidst the haze of school, work, and daily obligations. Without dining tables, we would have nowhere to catch our breaths. Holidays recognize this societal necessity by drawing us from the frenetic pace of everyday life and sticking us into a warm seat by a set placemat. For just a few moments, we take stock of the people, the memories, and of course, the food that enriches our lives. From Rosh Hashanah to Thanksgiving, Fall is a season brimming with holidays. Fall hosts numerous opportunities to raise our glasses and come together. Some celebrate by eating out, or ordering in. Some celebrate in aprons, and others in black tie. By sharing these meals, we prove that even in the mundane and even in misfortune, there is constant cause for celebration. Over this past season, our team at Columbia Eats! has endeavored to capture these special moments and the food that garnishes them. We’ve traveled to holiday markets and chocolatiers. We’ve dined together, cooked together, and explored eateries from New York City to Prague. With this issue, we strive to immortalize these memories and keep the taste of the holidays alive. We hope to share that taste with you, too. From our home to yours, we offer you a taste of our second seasonal issue: From the Dining Table. Dig in! Sincerely, Emani Fung, Editor in Chief
Our Tasting Menu
Inside a Dorm Room Dinner Party Jinny Yoon
Best of Europe: Must-Try Dishes in Eight European Cities Alex Crow
A School Night at ARIARI (and an Ode to the Beli Reservation System) May Shair
Festivities & Fungi: Inside NYC’s Annual Fungus Festival Cecelia Fatta
Sip & Grind: Putting Dear Mama to The Test Ria Basu
For Warm Atmosphere and Holiday Spirit: Motel Morris in Chelsea Ariana Eftimiu
A Vegan’s Guide to NYC Jinny Yoon
Finding the Best Hot Chocolate in New York City Sara Chough
Melt into the Holidays at Bryant Park Winter Village May Shair
‘More than a Bakery’: Poom, the Oculus’ Newest Indie Bakers Collective Sara Chough
All I Want for Christmas is Food Clara Davies
Dorm Room Dinner Party By Jinny Yoon Hosting a dinner party sounds intimidating, especially when you’re limited to a college dorm space. It’s time consuming, expensive, and there are so many factors that could go wrong. But it doesn't have to be that way. The Columbia Eats! Friendsgiving dinner party showed me that with the right planning, college dinner parties can be fun, relatively effortless, and stress-free. Before the night of the dinner party, we all got together to brainstorm a menu of tasty yet simple dishes that we could easily cook up in an EC dorm kitchen. We created a grocery list based on the menu and delegated shopping duties. Given our busy schedules, we decided to all pitch in and cook everything together. Cooking as a group helped us unwind from the stress of college life and created a shared experience. The process of cooking became a fun part of the dinner party experience rather than a separate preparation step. Of course, another essential aspect of a successful dinner party is setting the atmosphere. We decided to turn off the lights and lit scented candles on the dinner table, creating a dimly lit glow and an intimate ambience. We also used our laptops to play Christmas music, which we listened to while we cooked. After sitting down to eat, we played a game of Rose, Bud, Thorn, sharing our highlights, hardest moments, and our remaining hopes for the semester. Overall, it was a very successful night. My dorm and I are now ready to host any occasion that college throws our way!
Fall Sangria
Charcuterie Board
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
2 apples 1 orange 4 cinnamon sticks Ground cinnamon Apple cider, to taste 1 lemon squeezed 1 oz maple syrup or honey Grenadine, to taste 1 bottle of white wine Brewed chai, to taste
Fruit of choice (ex. grapes, blackberries, etc.) Varied cheeses of choice Crackers of choice Roasted nuts of choice
INSTRUCTIONS Arrange all ingredients cheese board and serve.
onto
a
INSTRUCTIONS Add all ingredients to a large pitcher and stir until well combined. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Cacio e Pepe INGREDIENTS 8 ounces uncooked pasta 2 tablespoons butter, diced into 1 tablespoon chunks Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 ounces finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, to taste
INSTRUCTIONS Bring a large pot of salted water to heat. Once boiling, add in the pasta and cook until al dente. Melt butter in a large pan over medium heat. Add the black pepper and let cook for 30 seconds, then turn off the heat. Drain the pasta and save ⅓ cup of the pasta water Add the pasta, ⅓ cup pasta water, and cheese to the pan with the butter and pepper. Toss to combine. Add in half the cheese and toss again, adding in pasta water as needed. Add in the remaining cheese until the cheese is melted and forms a smooth sauce. Serve the pasta immediately and garnish with extra black pepper and/or cheese if desired.
Baked Brie INGREDIENTS 1 8 oz round brie Honey, to taste 2 garlic cloves, sliced thinly Black pepper, to taste Chives, finely chopped, to taste
INSTRUCTIONS Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Add the brie to a baking sheet and score the top in a crosshatch pattern with a knife. Place the garlic and chives onto the top of the cheese. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle on the black pepper. Place the baking sheet into the oven for around 15 minutes, or until the cheese is gooey. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 2-3 minutes before serving.
Olive Oil Herb Toasted Bread INGREDIENTS 1 loaf of crusty bread, thinly sliced Extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper Dried herbs of choice (rosemary, thyme, basil, etc)
INSTRUCTIONS Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the slices of bread onto a baking sheet and drizzle generously with olive oil. Sprinkle on salt, pepper, and dried herbs. Place the baking sheet into the oven and toast until the bread is golden brown. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.
BEST OF EUROPE MUST-TRY DISHES IN EIGHT EUROPEAN CITIES BY ALEX CROW
COPENHAGEN
ATHENS
It’s no wonder that Copenhagen was named the food capital of Scandinavia. After four months, I have tried a lot of really good food here! My top spot, however, has to go to the Pomodoro pasta from Fabro. This dish was a perfect little reminder of home. The light, creamy tomato sauce reminded me of a vodka sauce, which is usually my go-to order, but has been very hard to find in Europe. The dollop of stracciatella cheese on top was reminiscent of La Pecora Bianca’s trademark burrata. The meal was enhanced by the cozy, quaint environment of Fabro. This charming hole-in-the-wall is a must try in Copenhagen!
I love a good dip - they just make a meal more fun! Unsurprisingly, my favorite dish in Greece was a dip trio from Arcadia Restaurant. The dish included homemade tzatziki, humus and fava bean with freshly baked pita. I’m not usually a hummus fan, so I was planning on leaving it all for my friend, but after one bite I was hooked. I fear I may be too spoiled to eat store bought hummus now! I can’t forget to mention the pita: it was so soft, pillowy and perfectly seasoned that I could’ve eaten it plain. Let’s just say after that appetizer I didn’t save much room for my main course.
STOCKHOLM
GENEVA While in Geneva, I went to one of the city’s most renowned fondue restaurants: Auberge de Saviese. And let me just say - Switzerland really does know its cheese! My friends and I opted for the “Half & Half” fondue, which is 50% gruyere, 50% vacherin. While traditional fondue is 100% gruyere, the Half & Half option still gives you 100% Swiss cheese, yet tones down the gruyere’s tang. This option was perfect: there was a balance of sweet and savory flavors, and the fondue was nice and thick. To top it all off, they give you soft, fresh bread for dipping. What else could you need?
I thought Swedish meatballs were going to be my favorite dish in Stockholm, but surprisingly, I was wrong. The top spot in Copenhagen’s Scandinavian sister city goes to the cold wheat noodles from Asian fusion restaurant Ling Long. These wheat based noodles were mixed with puffed rice and topped with spring onion and a peanut sauce; one of the best peanut sauces I’ve ever had. The word “cold” was almost a turn off for me, but I’m so glad I decided to try it. The cold presentation made it stand out from any other similar dishes I’ve had before.
BARCELONA
PRAGUE
Having paella at a restaurant on a Barcelona beach is an experience I will never forget. It was one of the most filling and delicious meals I had all semester. The combination of spices was incredible. There were so many flavors going on all at once, yet they all blended well. My favorite part of the dish was the fresh seafood. One food I had been missing since coming to Europe was shellfish, especially after spending my summer at the Jersey shore. Although Restaurant Salamanca offers a few different variations of their paella, I recommend the seafood option, as it elevates the beachfront dining experience.
VIENNA As winter begins, there is no better way to say goodbye to autumn than with pumpkin risotto. After walking around Vienna all day in the bitter cold, we found ourselves at Oswald and Kalb, a classic Viennese restaurant. The risotto I chose from the menu warmed me right up. The pumpkin flavor was noticeable throughout the whole dish, but it was never overwhelming. The risotto itself was so rich and creamy, you would have thought I was in Italy. The parmesan cheese garnish not only made the dish visually, but it also offered just a little tanginess to juxtapose the pumpkin’s sweetness.
AMSTERDAM
Brunch is my favorite meal, yet it took me six cities for a brunch meal to take the top spot. Dutch pancakes are a staple in the Netherlands. Folks eat them morning, noon and night! You can get them topped with just about anything, so whether you are a sweet or savory person, there will be a Dutch pancake for you. The pancake itself is much thinner than a typical American pancake, but it is also much sweeter. You only need to add a small drizzle of syrup on top. It reminded me of an open face crȇpe, so I chose a classic topping combination of strawberries, bananas and nutella. If only I could have Dutch pancakes every morning…
Sweet treat o clock! Trdelník is one of Prague’s most popular street foods, and it's not hard to realize why. Also known as a chimney cake, trdelník is made of sweet dough, baked and rolled in sugar. You can eat it plain, but as someone with a big sweet tooth, I chose to get mine filled with ice cream and strawberries. It required a lot of napkins, but the mess was worth it. It’s almost too good to describe; the cake is served warm, so it falls apart in your mouth. The cold ice cream and strawberries offer the perfect contrast. It will be hard to find a sweet treat that can top this.
A School Night at ARIARI and an Ode to the Beli Reservation System By May Shair As any foodie at Columbia can attest, there is an abundance of restaurants throughout NYC and only so many days of the weekend on which we can find the time to venture off campus. However, I’ve found that the Beli app’s reservation sharing system has inspired me to try new restaurants in the middle of the week. Take October 31, a random Tuesday that I spent doing homework with a friend in the Butler main room. As I turned the pages of my history textbook, I received a Beli notification on my phone: “ARIARI, Tomorrow Night, Nov 1 7:00 PM, Party of 2. Click here to claim it!” I immediately opened the notification and weighed the pros and cons of accepting the reservation in my head. On one hand, I would knock off another restaurant on my want-to-try list, and who could turn down authentic Korean downtown in favor of Ferris? Though on the other hand, would I really have time to waste my entire night on such an excursion to the East Village? Spoiler alert: I did, and I dragged that friend with me. ARIARI is a new restaurant—it recently celebrated its one-year anniversary—but the attention to detail would suggest that it’s an old neighborhood favorite. Upon entering the restaurant, we immediately noticed the decor: the interior almost looks like a diner, with wooden walls, metal chairs, and framed photographs of Korea. The space itself is noisy, a result of tables situated close to one another in the small space, but we were still able to converse and take in our surroundings. From our table, we had a view of the bar, where the bartender shook drinks named after ingredients prominent in Korean and East Asian cuisine, such as Doraji (bellflower root), Hyun-Mi (brown rice), and Gochugaru. Even in the plating were diner motifs prominent, such as in the plating of the fried chicken appetizer atop ARIARI branded tissue paper.
Each table receives a complimentary plate of house-made kimchi. ARIARI’s recipe features a sweet, creamy, and lightly spiced marinade that did not taste overly fermented. To start, we ordered the seafood pancake and the fried chicken. The pancake was crispy, and the shrimp was distributed evenly in each bite. The chicken was perfectly juicy and tender, and the batter was light, airy, and benefitted from the curry. However, the accompanying sauces for both dishes were provided scantily, and the two appetizers together were quite greasy and heavy. I recommend ordering a hot/fried appetizer alongside a raw appetizer. As we devoured our kimchi to cut the greasiness, we were pleased that our waiter brought us a complimentary second plate.
The appetizers were followed by the Beef Su-Yuk, a beef noodle soup. Our waiter kept the dish over an open flame in order to keep it from becoming cold. The broth was warm and rich, and the beef was tender. The star of the show, however, was the Dolsot Al-Bap. This bibimbap featured rice and fish roe with furikake seasoning, topped with whipped sea urchin cream. Our waiter stirred the rice tableside to ensure that each flavor and texture would be captured in each bite. And wow was each bite divine. The roe provided the perfect crunch alongside the rice, and the sea urchin cream added a light fishiness and butteriness without making the dish overly rich. Truly an absolutely heavenly dish, and an absolute must-try Korean dish in the city.
We ended our meal with the corn crème brûlée, which was surprising in the best ways. We tasted delicate corn notes, with an undeniable buttery flavor, almost reminiscent of buttered corn on the cob. Don’t be fooled by the unassuming photograph of the seemingly small ramekin on the menu; we could barely finish the dessert between the two of us. Cashing in at $88 between the two of us, we couldn’t help but feel that the meal was a steal. If you are looking for casual ambiance and traditional, yet innovative Korean fare, ARIARI has you covered. I cannot wait to return, and I cannot thank Barry Goldenblatt enough for posting this reservation on Beli.
F ESTIVITIES + F UNGI INSIDE NYC’S ANNUAL FUNGUS FESTIVAL BY CECELIA FATTA
On a cloudy Sunday morning in October, I met my friend Anne at the 116th Street bus stop. We were on a quest to find a festival happening on Randall’s Island, an island almost straight east from Columbia. It was the New York Mycological Society’s Annual Fungus Festival. The event had promised food, activities, talks - all centered around fungi. I will be honest I almost never eat mushrooms. However, they are full of good minerals and are a pretty good source of protein. They are also better for the environment than land-intensive crops like corn. My footsteps faltered as we waited for the bus doors to open - did we need the regular M60 or the M60-SBS? Taking a leap of faith, we jumped on and found seats, and luckily, we made the right guess. We transferred to another bus a while later, and after crossing the Robert F. Kennedy Bridge, we made it to Randall’s Island. Located only a few miles straight east from Columbia, I was surprised I had not been there before. We were unsure where to walk from the bus stop, but we made the obvious decision to follow a lady who had a mushroom hat on.
It was the first weekend in maybe two months that it hadn’t rained, so we were excited. The overcast sky made me nervous, but the sun had begun to peek out on our bus ride there. We found our way to a field with many tents, tables, and already a good crowd of people. The wide green space, bordered by two beautiful bridges, really enhanced the experience. Once we made it to the clearing, we first happened upon some speakers giving a talk about how mushrooms benefit soil. After listening for a few minutes, our attention was caught by some other festival-goers. People were dressed for the occasion, with mushroom beanies, socks, and sweaters everywhere we turned. We were immediately lured in by the good smells emanating from the food vendors. Our bus ride and walk through the park had made us hungry, so we decided to eat. My friend chose a vegan pizza, which we watched get rolled out and placed in a tiny outdoor oven. I chose gnocchi, which was topped with mushrooms, sage, rosemary, and thyme - wait, isn’t this a Simon and Garfunkel song? Also available were mushroom teas, a mushroom beer garden, a stew with mushrooms and quinoa, and a crostini sample with beef-like mushrooms and horseradish spread. I was nervous to try my mushroom dish, but I was surprised. The herbs gave the gnocchi a nice flavor, and the mushrooms gave the dish a new texture as well as earthy flavor. Venturing through the island’s urban farm, we came across a postermaking activity. We pasted newspaper and dictionary scraps together in a scrapbook-like fashion, leaving room for the crown jewel: a beautiful mushroom stamp that we got to press onto the page. On our way out of the garden, we saw a paper-making workshop, as well as a table laid out with a wide variety of fungi. I was especially excited for the stationery vendors, who had printed beautiful posters for the event. Also available were prints, zines, and other posters - all to do with mushrooms. One zine I perused had cartoon drawings of different types of mushrooms. I chose to buy the event’s t-shirt, which was covered with different mushrooms. Anne bought what looked like a field guide mushroom poster, the scientific names italicized below the illustrations.
Satisfied with our meals and our purchases, we began to walk back toward the bus stop, but not before snapping a picture in front of the “FUNGUS FESTIVAL” banner near the entrance. “We are a couple of fun-guys,” Anne joked as we rode back to Columbia. Whether we are fun guys or not, I cannot wait for next year’s festival. The New York Mycological Society put on a wonderful event, and Randall’s Island was the perfect location. Just a bus ride away from Columbia, this festival was a great way to contribute to the local community, learn something new, and spend a peaceful morning.
Sip & Grind As a newcomer to NYC, I am on the quest to find the best coffee shops the city has to offer. I explore both the indie and the ultra trendy, all while helping busy Columbia students find the best bang for their buck.
By Ria Basu
Putting Dear Mama to the Test Finals season is over, and winter break is at our fingertips. But over the last month, I was stuck in Butler for too many hours to count. The atmosphere soon began to lull me to sleep. Truth be told, I was itching to escape campus, hole up in a cute and cozy cafe, and finish my Lit Hum paper while sipping a hot latte (one that preferably did not come from Blue Java). In fact, my friend and I had been on the hunt for a late-night coffee shop, as we both like to study late: a feat that is tougher than it sounds. Most cafes around campus and in Midtown are closed between 4 pm and 6 pm. I was looking for a cafe I could stay in until around 9 pm, when all my classes would have ended and I’d be ready for another wave of work to tackle.
Our criteria for the cafe: Must be within a 20minute subway ride from campus. Must have wifi and space to study. Must be open until after 8 pm.
We ended up walking to Dear Mama, a cafe on 130th Street close to Columbia's Wallach Art Gallery. The space is large and airy, with long glass panels that let in plenty of natural light. There is an effortlessly comforting ambiance about the setup, as the bar is in the center, and a good amount of (but not excessive) greenery is placed around the cafe. (I was told that the tree in the center was real and named Jude! Jude slays.) Plenty of people were working on their laptops on the high-top counters facing the streets of New York and the art gallery, and there were little tables set up in the center. My friend and I reached the cafe around 5 pm, so the lighting was pretty dim, as we were told Dear Mama transitions to adopt the fitting 'cocktail bar' vibe later into the night. Onto the drinks. My friend got an Americano with whole milk on the side, and I got their Chai latte with whole milk as well. I was told their Chai was made in-house and quite popular, and it did not disappoint! Our drinks came promptly, hot with latte art in aesthetic ceramic mugs. The Chai was spiced, I could taste the cardamom and cinnamon, and it was just slightly sweet - which was perfect. I'm a Chai Latte skeptic, as I find most Chai to be made too sweet, which I had mentioned to the barista, so this was exciting. My friend's Americano was silky, smooth, and high-quality coffee. We ended up setting our laptops in the corner of the high tables. The atmosphere was quiet regarding chatter, but the Christmas music was pleasant and welcoming. It is important to note that the center tables did not allow for laptops, but plenty of seating was on the side. We got a lemon-poppy seed muffin along with our drinks, which was quite good. It had a strong lemon flavor, and its texture wasn't the fluffiest muffin, but it was still yummy and full of poppy seeds. It was perfect to nibble on with our drinks. (I'd like to say because we were also looking for a cafe to study in, my friend relocated to the seating area of the Wallach art gallery, which was connected to the restaurant through a door, because she found the cafe too dark but I enjoyed the dim lighting and stayed to work in the corner.) Later, we got a croissant lox sandwich and a club sandwich for dinner. The croissant sandwich was full of smoked salmon, herb cream cheese, tomato, pickled onions, and capers - it was the perfect breakfast-but-also-anytime-of-the-day sandwich, and the croissant was flaky and soft. The salmon-to-cream cheese ratio was perfect (this is important), and it was very filling. The club sandwich was even more filling, as it included three pieces of buttery toasted sourdough bread with tomato, chicken, bacon, and lettuce, all slathered in a tasty chipotle mayo. The sandwiches were phenomenal for a cafe and very satisfying for a late dinner. We walked back around 9 pm, content with our little cafe excursion and (somewhat) revived for the busy week ahead.
Ratings: Based on conditions at the time of visit: Study-ability: 7 Coffee: 8 Ambiance: 7 Overall score: 22/30
For Warm Atmosphere and Holiday Spirit:
Motel Morris By Ariana Eftimiu
Motel Morris, situated right outside the 18th St. station in Chelsea, is an ideal dining location for those with visiting family, looking for a warm atmosphere for a one on one conversation, and refusing to travel anywhere that isn’t a straight shot on the 1-train alike. The inside atmosphere, a color palette of flushed turquoise and mahogany wood, is simple but very inviting. The lighting glows amber, and potted plants add to the hotel lobby feel provided by the space. Executive chef Bill McDaniel previously worked at The Red Cat for 14 years as Chef de Cuisine, and the restaurant’s four owners (“brothers Sam and Brett Nidel, Brett Nidel’s wife Tamara McCarthy and his childhood friend Matt Mogil”) also own The Commons Chelsea, a neighborhood cafe near the restaurant (which also touts seasonal options, such as apple cider, ginger lemonade, and hot chocolate). I walked in on a late fall Friday, and the bar was bustling; I was invited to take a seat there while I waited for a close friend (despite it being past 7 P.M., I ordered a cappuccino). It was dim, yet comforting. Our experience felt very personal; although it was a Friday, I cannot recall there being many other patrons seated to dine, and did not have to raise my voice to be able to speak. To get the most out of our experience, my friend and I split a few dishes family style – malt vinegar dusted fries (adding to the homey, diner-esque appeal), butternut cream gnocchi, and zucchini parmesan. A few weeks later, looking to make another reservation, I found that the dinner menu already presented new options.
in Chelsea
The menu is vast – from red curry mussels, to lasagna chips, to seared salmon. There are plenty of meat and seafood dishes, but also several alternatives; the sides are unique and sizable. The dinner dessert options, butterscotch banana pudding, key lime cheesecake, and chocolate mousse cake, solidified my decision to go back, as well as the creative cocktail menu. From “...THE PLUMS...IN THE ICEBOX,” made with Ten to One white rum, Ume plum liqueur, and lime, to “WHAT’S THE BUZZ” with bourbon, honey, and lavender bitters, the options are incredibly appealing. For dinner, Motel Morris is open Monday to Wednesday 4.30 PM to 10 PM, Thursday to Saturday 4.30 PM to 10:30 PM, and Sunday 4.30 PM to 9 PM. The brunch and lunch menu maintain the same cocktail, wine, and draft beer selections, although the menu changes, with options such as shakshuka, huevos rancheros, avocado tostada, breakfast fried rice, shrimp “gyro” salad, and other sandwiches. The restaurant also offers Happy Hour Mondays through Fridays, 3:30-6 PM, complete with “Martini Mondays, Tiki-Tuesdays, Margarita Miercoles, Throwback Thursdays, and OldFashioned Fridays,” in tune with the restaurant’s theme of creative selections and new spins on traditional fare. The same popular sides (including the malt fries that I continuously think about) are also offered, with deviled eggs for $8.00 and crusty garlic bread for $12.00. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday 11 AM to 3:30 PM, and lunch Monday to Friday 12 PM to 3.30 PM.
The restaurant’s evident charm made it feel similar to a boutique hotel’s dining room in the Catskills; a place to hang up parkas, warm up with tagliarini or chilled spicy peanut soba, and discuss the inclement weather (or more positive topics – the new engagements you found out about over Thanksgiving, perhaps, or plans to celebrate the month off come December). It most definitely lends itself to being a good space for autumn and winter dinners, and a great place to go in place of a Friendsgiving or winter holiday dinner party for the same feel. From the moment I walked in, I definitely knew it was a spot to frequent, perfect for essentially any kind of conversation, to foster a broad spectrum of connections. The spot also offers a newsletter to subscribe to on their website, and spirited pocket tees and keychains. I definitely recommend a trip to Motel Morris restaurant, particularly as the weather grows colder and you just might need to order a 7 P.M. cappuccino of your own in a homey atmosphere!
A VEGAN’S GUIDE TO NYC
By Jinny Yoon
Whether you are a seasoned vegan or an omnivore looking to expand your palate, there is no shortage of plantbased dining options in New York City, from upscale omakase restaurants to Southern comfort food. NYC is known as one of the most vegan friendly cities in the world, and as a vegan myself, I couldn’t agree more. I had the opportunity to try some of the city’s vast offerings this semester, and have found a couple of favorites I would highly recommend.
Peacefood Cafe: https://www.peacefoodnyc.com Peacefood Cafe, with locations on the Upper West Side and Union Square, is perfect for when you’re looking for a nice yet casual spot to dine with friends, family, or even solo. The menu offers a mix of healthy and indulgent options. My go-to order is the peacefood bowl, which comes with a choice of three seasonal vegetables, brown rice or quinoa, ginger oil, and an optional protein such as tofu or tempeh. It’s reminiscent of home cooked food in the best way possible; it’s simple yet hearty, nourishing, and flavorful. Another favorite is the shanghai dumplings, which consist of a mushroom, chive, bamboo shoot, and tofu filling encased in a thick, pan-seared wrapper. Finally, you must try their selection of vegan baked goods, from tiramisu to cheesecake to carrot cake, which is my personal favorite.
Hangawi http://hangawirestaurant.com Hangawi is a vegan Michelin-guide Koreanfusion restaurant. Located in K-town, this fine-dining restaurant offers a unique, homey dining experience where you take your shoes off at the door and sit on pillows on the floor. I would recommend going with family or friends and sharing multiple dishes for the full experience, and I guarantee that even meatlovers will enjoy Hangawi’s plant-based take on Korean cuisine. As for what to order, you can never go wrong with the classic dolsot bibimbap, or rice mixed with various sauteed vegetables and spicy Korean gochujang sauce in a hot stone bowl. The rice at the bottom becomes crispy and the stone bowl ensures your food stays warm throughout the entire meal. In addition to the classics, the menu includes a variety of innovative dishes such as grilled todok skewers, a uniquely Korean root vegetable marinated in an addictive spicy sauce that almost reminded me of Korean barbecued meat.
Spring Cafe Aspen https://www.springcafeaspen.com Spring Cafe Aspen is a casual, vegetarian (mostly vegan) restaurant by NYU where you order at the counter. If you are looking for a healthy, filling meal, you can count on this restaurant to serve organic, nourishing food with generous portions, whether it be breakfast, lunch, or dinner. They are well known for their big, flavorful, and fresh salads, and I also recommend the Highland bowl and Green Goddess Bowl. These bowls come with a base of brown rice and quinoa, respectively, and are topped with a variety of vegetables, protein of choice (pan fried tofu or bean-based tempeh), and dressing. They sound simple enough, but they are so satisfying and are some of my favorite dishes I’ve tried in New York. There is truly something for everyone on the menu, however, from vegan gluten-free pancakes to lentil meatballs and spaghetti to spinach mushroom enchiladas.
Finding the Best Hot Chocolate in NYC
This holiday season, the Columbia Eats! Team made it our mission to find THE best hot chocolate in New York City. We conducted extensive research and traveled across Manhattan to review seven very popular hot chocolate spots to see if they were worth the hype. We share our honest thoughts on each drink, ranking their delectableness in ascending order. We hope you find this list convenient during your next hot chocolate craving. Drink cocoa responsibly!
#7: Sarabeth’s Every New Yorker knows this chic, upscale American brunch spot with multiple locations spanning the city, but the true foodies know that they also have a classic hot chocolate on the menu. To be frank, Sarabeth’s, maybe stick to the traditional brunch items. This hot chocolate was barely a step above Swiss Miss mix, the kind that’s made with water instead of milk. The texture was thin, liquidy, and allin-all a huge let down. The chocolate flavor itself was also very dull, without any real flavor or sweetness to carry a presence. A solid 6/10 at most and a definite skip for us.
#6: Sant Ambroeus Another name every New Yorker has heard of, we were super excited to skip our usual order of Italian items and try a cup of their steaming hot cocoa. Unfortunately, our excitement quickly turned to disappointment. Not only was the aesthetic of the drink underwhelming, resembling a slightly fancier Starbucks, but the chocolate was a bit too bitter and bland for our taste. Its one redeeming quality was the texture, which was thicker than Sarabeth’s, but ultimately, nothing about this hot chocolate really stood out to us or made it worth buying again.
#5: Jacques Torres We decided to stray a bit from the traditional at Jacques Torres and try the Wicked Hot Chocolate, their take on a spiced hot chocolate. We weren’t sure what to expect going into it, but wanted to try something new. The spices in the chocolate definitely added some dimensionality to the drink that was both exciting and paired nicely with the darker chocolate they used. Their homemade whipped cream was also a nice touch for sure. Unfortunately, texture-wise it did fall more on the thinner side than some of the hot cocas that are higher on our list and lacked the “wow factor” we were looking for. We loved the uniqueness of this hot chocolate, but as an experience, we probably wouldn’t pay for it again.
#4: Hungarian Pastry Shop Ah yes, the Columbia staple that all Lions know and love. As we’re all aware, Hungarian sells incredible coffee, pastries, and other baked goods so we were eager to try their hot chocolate as well. The shop itself had a very pleasant ambiance when we walked in––warm, cozy, and inviting. The service was also amazing as always; we were seated soon after we arrived and the hot chocolate came out immediately after we ordered. The presentation of the hot cocoa itself was simple yet timeless. The taste, despite being somewhat watery and less sweet than we would have liked, had good flavor overall. The whipped cream on top was definitely sweet, which helped add some of that sugar, and the dusting of cinnamon was a perfect addition. Our final verdict? A pretty decent hot chocolate, but maybe we just like Hungarian.
#3: Glace by Noglu Did you know that the famous gluten-free bakery, Noglu, also opened a French ice cream parlor? Glace doesn’t just serve a diverse array of ice cream flavors, with gluten-free cones and ice cream cakes, but they also serve a pretty popular hot chocolate. We visited to judge for ourselves whether their hot cocoa was worth the buzz. The storefront was small, but cute, with not many places to eat except for a few chairs outside. However, they were playing Christmas music, the vibes were very jolly, and the service was speedy and efficient. Now for the hot chocolate. This beverage was the most expensive on our list at $10 per cup (New York prices, am I right), but it was also the only one that came with marshmallows, which were nicely toasted and delicious. The flavor was definitely reminiscent of s’mores. While the marshmallow fluff was definitely the highlight, it made it a bit difficult to dig for the hot chocolate and eating straight marshmallow at the beginning was slightly tiring. Additionally, the texture of the chocolate, while better than some of the earlier ones on our list, still wasn’t as thick as we were hoping. The cocoa also got very sweet after a while and couldn’t be finished—feeling more like a dessert than a drink. It was very delicious and creative, though, and there was a line at 12 p.m. on a Monday so others definitely agree with us.
#2: Angelina Paris If you’ve ever been on hot chocolate Tik Tok, you’ve definitely seen videos of the renowned, Parisian hot chocolate at Angelina’s. While there have been some mixed reviews out there, let us be the first to say that we were not disappointed. The texture of the hot cocoa was thick, rich, and silky smooth, and the flavor had a faint bitter note that made the taste that much more complex. While we loved this bitterness, it might not be a fan favorite for those of you who prefer a more classic, sweet hot chocolate experience. Angelina’s chooses to serve whipped cream on the side so that customers can add as much or as little as they would like to the hot chocolate, which we loved. The whipped cream was fluffy and clearly freshly made, and its sweetness cut some of the darkness of the cocoa itself. For those who also like making hot chocolate at home, Angelina’s sells canned options as well.
#1: Max Brenner Oh my goodness, words cannot begin to describe how floored we were by this hot chocolate. Decadent, warm, syrupy, and silky smooth––we were fighting each other for another sip. The whole store looked like a chocolate shop or a pastry box or some kind of advent calendar. The vibes were truly immaculate and inviting, despite the lack of seating, with holiday-forward decor that screamed Christmas. The hot cocoa tasted like Christmas itself as well; we can only describe it as heavenly, pure, rich goodness running down your throat. An image that comes to mind is the hot chocolate from Polar Express. You know what we’re talking about. Anyway, an easy 10/10, run don’t walk.
Melt into the Holidays At Bryant Park Winter Village
*Disclaimer: If you are a cheese lover, this article might not be for you. There are numerous guides for you on TikTok, Reels, and literally anywhere you might possibly think to look up “Bryant Park Winter Village Highlights” to indulge in cheese. Unfortunately, the attendees of this day trip do not particularly enjoy cheese. In fact, one of us so vehemently dislikes cheese that even the scent of cheese nauseates her. Neither the viral cheese wheel pasta nor the viral truffle Philly cheesesteak sandwich was consumed. Cheese will be discussed minimally, so proceed at your own risk.* As a native New Yorker and now Columbia student, the Bryant Park Winter Village has become a mainstay and tradition in my New York holiday season (aren’t New Yorkers allowed to dabble in touristic revelry from time to time?). The ice rink and blasting holiday music always propel me into the holiday spirit, and the food and shopping kiosks seem unending. Being just 20 minutes south of Columbia on the 1 train, a visit to the Winter Village is the perfect holiday activity for Columbia foodies. Last month, I went on said excursion with my fellow Columbia Eats! Member, Kate Darling, with the goal to try as much food as we could without spending too much money.
By May Shair
When we arrived, we were greeted by festive holiday music and the sweet and spicy aroma of apple cider donuts and hot apple cider. Not giving into temptation, we decided to walk a few laps to see what our options were. The Village hosts a wide array of small art stands, clothing/accessory stores, and, of course, food stands. I will say that not much of the food offerings seemed particularly Christmas/holidayoriented. We attempted to try mainly holiday-themed dishes, but did not fully succeed.
After walking a lap, we visited our first stand of the day: Baked Cheese Haus. I know, I know. I said there would be minimal cheese. But I caved and was intrigued by their surprisingly authentic offering: “Classic Suisse Raclette over New Potatoes with Gherkins.” I would never have thought to pair hot, melty cheese with plainly boiled potatoes and sour pickles, and the flavor combination intrigued me. I am also conditioning myself to like cheese, and this stand seemed perfect for my mission. This dish surprised me! The cheese was crispy and deeply browned on the edges, and the raclette itself was somewhat mild. While the potatoes were a bit bland, they were the perfect base for the cheese without introducing another overwhelming flavor. The portion is quite large though, so definitely share this dish with a friend or two.
We then visited the adjacent stand: Destination Dumpling. They boast to be among the top dumplings in the city, displaying on their sign reviews taken from the Zagat guide, Time New York, and other sources. We just had to verify these claims for ourselves. We shared the spicy pork buns and the classic dumplings. The buns were more bready than meaty, though the pork was tender and flavorful. I cannot recommend the spicy buns though, as their chili crisp topping was actually very salty. The dumplings were your typically yummy pork potstickers, and they satisfied our potsticker cravings.
By this point in our visit, we were in desperate need of a sweet treat, so we made our way to the more explicitly holidaythemed area of the Village to visit the S’mores stand. With a line around the skating rink, we waited 20 minutes in anticipation of the gourmet marshmallows. I must give a shoutout to Henry, who runs the stand. He shared with us his love for the winter village and for making his customers happy: “I like using the torch, I like seeing people smile. It doesn’t matter the age.” He also told us how he understands that much of the allure of his stand comes from watching him scorch the marshmallows, but we must also acknowledge his friendliness and candor! Thank you, Henry, for the gooey peppermint smores and for the free marshmallows!
Wanting to maintain the sugar rush, we walked to try a Winter Village classic: Max Brenner’s hot chocolate with marshmallows. They use milk chocolate at the stand, which imparts a sweet, rich flavor without quite coating your throat in the way that sipping chocolate does. The singular large marshmallow is challenging to eat inside the hot chocolate cup, but it effectively soaks up the hot chocolate and is a nice treat at the end. On our way out, again attracted to the scent of apple cider and cinnamon, we visited the Breezy Hill Orchard stand to try their apple cider donuts and gingerbread cookies. The donut was cakey and coated in sugar, and the cookie was soft and chewy. These were the perfect treats to end our Winter Village excursion, and a sweet reminder that as busy college students, we should treat ourselves to Bryant Park more often!
‘MORE THAN A BAKERY’ Poom, the Oculus’ Newest Indie Bakers Collective By Sara Chough On November 20, 2023, I had the incredible opportunity to interview Sylvia Lee, CEO of Poom, an up-andcoming startup that promotes and sells baked goods on behalf of indie bakers and small family-owned bakeries across New York City. Poom’s name comes from the Korean word poom-ah-si, which describes a communal culture of sharing in Korea, and its mission is centered around using baked goods to fight against food insecurity, loneliness, and cultural barriers. When I asked Sylvia to share a bit about the history of Poom and why she wanted to found this kind of business, she had a story that many from abroad are familiar with. Having grown up in Korea, Sylvia moved to New York City, where she worked as an architect for many years. However, after the COVID-19 pandemic hit in 2020 and she was suddenly stuck at home most of the time, she realized that she didn’t know any of her neighbors. “I used to have crazy work hours,” she explained, “And I love my city, I love my job, but it bothered me that I wasn’t really rooted here in the city.” Sylvia remembered how she grew up in Korea, with a community fostered by poom-ah-si in which neighbors and friends knew each other well and would help each other in times of hardship––freely sharing food and whatever resources they had. Missing that environment, she decided to start baking and knocking on neighbors’ doors to introduce herself and share homemade treats. “Not necessarily because I was good,” she added with a laugh, “If I was good I would have started a bakery myself.”
Many of her friends thought this was a crazy undertaking, arguing that New Yorkers would hate getting random visits or that they would think it unsafe to eat food from strangers. “But I was like ‘if they don’t like it, they won’t eat it’.” Unfazed, Sylvia kept baking and sharing, and to her surprise, neighbors began sharing their homemade food back. “What was really amazing was that it wasn’t really about the food anymore,” Sylvia recalled, “It was actually talking about the food that brought us together and allowed us to share our stories with each other. It was forming a real, tangible community here in our building.”
Sylvia began posting about this small project on social media and became inspired by the impact she was creating. She thought that working with baked goods would be a perfect place to start, given that everyone was baking during the pandemic. “What made me more serious about Poom was that…I noticed that the best bakers are among us. Even though we live in a very fancy city with very fancy bakeries, the best baked goods I’ve actually tasted in New York City were from my neighbors, not Michelin-star restaurants.” Sylvia quickly realized that there were so many small bakers trying to get personal businesses up and running or small, lesserknown bakeries making authentic, incredible products. She wanted to find a way to promote these young entrepreneurs while encouraging a sense of community through the exchange of food.
Sylvia presented this idea at a tech conference in Seattle and as a result, met a few software engineers who were interested in developing this concept into an app. She partnered with them to build a prototype platform, which they entered into a tech startup competition and subsequently won. After obtaining seed funding as a prize, their journey only continued from there. Sylvia quit her job and devoted her full attention to Poom, which she had never expected to do as the project didn’t have any real business model at that point. In fact, their first platform was simply an accessible app in which people could bake various creations, upload photos of them to freely give away, and grow their social presence. Through the app, bakers could share their food while many facing homelessness or food insecurity could receive baked goods for free. When I asked about the effectiveness of the app given the lock of monetization for Poom and the bakers themselves, Sylvia replied, “You know, there were no clear incentives, and it’s actually a lot of work for you to post on the app and schedule the pickup, all of that, but people did it. We were very humbled by that.” Sylvia went on saying, “At least twice a month we [Poom] would bake a lot and just donate to shelters, donate to community fridges.” She vividly remembers a family who could afford food, but never dessert, asking her if they had extra treats to give away. Sylvia described how she saw the Poom app as a way for food insecure people to obtain delicious products for free without the stigma or hurt pride that comes from relying on a government-sponsored program or soup kitchen––the app was for everyone after all, regardless of socioeconomic position.
However, Sylvia soon realized that the business had to be monetized for the team to be able to scale up and have a greater impact on the city. While Poom wanted to start managing the deliveries and pickups of baked products themselves, acting as a mediator between sellers and buyers, it was difficult and costly to do so without a physical location. “With a storefront, we would be able to utilize third-party delivery apps like DoorDash, unlike many bakers who are currently operating businesses from home,” Sylvia explained. “Now that we have the storefront, anyone can utilize our storefront to deliver their baked goods or have customers pick up their goods from our storefront rather than from their apartments.” Poom also plans to have an online centralized storefront to manage all the orders of these small business owners. “Before we would have had to coordinate with the bakers constantly to schedule deliveries when they received orders on their individual websites, but with a centralized platform, this process becomes much more efficient.” Sylvia saw this new model as a better way to support small bakers––allowing them to focus more on baking and less on business.
In December of 2023, Poom opened their first storefront location at The Oculus in the World Trade Center. Sylvia selectively picks artisan bakers and bakeries to partner with and offers their products through Poom. She prioritizes featuring a diverse array of baked treats from cuisines around the world. For example, Poom has developed collaborations with people selling desserts from Korea, Vietnam, Germany, Greece, China, Brazil, Japan, and Mexico, to name a few. The pathway to Sylvia’s success today, however, was far from easy. “I was strapped for two years before we got the funding. It got to the point where I didn’t even have money to buy food,” Sylvia recalled. “I couldn’t even get food stamps and was facing eviction from my apartment. This is part of the reason why we do these ‘feed the hungry’ initiatives––because I really was very hungry. It was so scary, and I was very close to quitting altogether.” As a female, first-time entrepreneur without any technical software development skills or experience in the food industry, there were many hurdles to overcome. “I think the biggest challenge is always the fear,” Sylvia emphasized. She found it much more mentally difficult to create her own startup than working a corporate job because of the constant worry about potential failure.
When I asked Sylvia to then share her biggest piece of advice for young entrepreneurs aiming to start their own companies, she said without hesitation, “Just do it.” In the end, Sylvia found that despite always being stereotyped as a small-time baker when introducing Poom and the work that they do, she felt that it was because she wasn’t a baker that she was able to succeed. Her lack of experience in the food industry ended up being a major strength, as she was initially a bit naive about the baking world and was strongly compelled to learn without being limited by preconceptions. “For example, on the flip side, if someone asked me to start an architecture startup, I would say no way,” Sylvia said with a humorous smile. “Because I know too much about it and I’m already so biased; I know too much about the industry to jump into it thinking I can succeed.” Sylvia believes that too much knowledge or experience can be a debilitating burden at times. She hopes that young people looking to found startups will take inspiration from and be encouraged by her story as she is someone who would have been labeled as “unqualified” at the beginning of her journey.
Despite the countless struggles, Sylvia’s passion for using food to create community in what can often be a lonely city and expose people to a wider range of cuisines propelled her forward. Just as Poom’s mission statement outlines, “Share bread, live neighborly,” Sylvia has a vision of bringing poom-ah-si from Korea to New York and making a positive impact in the place she now calls home. If you ever find yourself near The Oculus or the World Trade Center, please stop by and support them!
ALL I WANT FOR C H R I S T M A S I S FOOD BY CLARA DAVIES As a Brit in New York, I’ve heard a lot of slander regarding British food. And true, a lot of our comfort staples are brick-by-brick reconstructions of dishes from the Blitz, but I present a counterpoint: Christmas. Christmas, it’s fair to say, is not a quiet time in the Davies household. We’re a big family, and a loud one, and everyone’s always bickering at twice the volume to be heard over the dulcet tones of Michael Bublé, but somehow, when dinner hits the table, a blissful silence falls. As proud secular Brits, Christmas isn’t much about religion in my house. It’s about two things: family, and food. Especially food. Each day of the holidays is defined by its meal schedule: what we’re eating and when, who’s bringing what, will we have enough room in the fridge for this, and is there actually any point in having brussel sprouts when no one is going to eat them? My mum starts a vegetable list in mid-November. Meanwhile, my dad goes to the butcher’s for what I imagine must be a serious and lengthy negotiation on the size of the goose for Christmas Day. I miss most of this, three-thousand miles away in the Northwest Corner library. The second I touch down in England, however, I’m ready to get going. The first phase of Christmas begins for me: Baking Day. The hours slip by. There’s something healing about making pastry by hand, grating in the butter and bringing it together in my palms. When the sausage rolls are finished, I begin to produce enough gingerbread to feed a small army, in the hope it will keep us going until mid-February or so. Next to me in the kitchen, my mum makes tiny mince pies, spooning the ruby filling into each case. We indulge in the British tradition of referring to TV chefs by first name, and these are “Nigella’s.” In recent years, we’ve eschewed cooking on Christmas Eve for a trip to our local curry house: Crendon Indian Cuisine, a village institution and (unbiasedly) the best Indian food in England. Somehow the sweet, spicy, cranberry-red brinjal bhaji and pillowy, garlicy naans feel as festive as anything. We raise a glass to my Grandad, who (as a firmly unadventurous eater) would have hated this. We leave rosy-cheeked, warm from the inside, and walk home in the glow of twinkling lights slung from house to house.
On Christmas Day, excessive eating is balanced with generous drinking – usually beginning before twelve (which is allowed, because it’s Christmas). Christmas dinner is as follows: rich roasted goose, onion stuffing, sausages wrapped in bacon, roast potatoes, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower cheese, and more often than not Yorkshire puddings, each puffed up tall in the oven, soaking up the gravy. By the end, the general mood is one of low-level sickness… but this does not by any means preclude another meal later. And this meal is, for me, the holy grail, the true meal of Christmas: the sandwiches. There’s no greater pleasure than a sandwich with thick butter and small pieces of crackling studded among the stuffing. Beside it, sausage rolls and the auspiciously named Christmas Pickle, which, though considered an heirloom family recipe, is mostly just a very 1970s mixture of cucumber, onion, and vinegar. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. This meal is a rite of passage: you never want it, but you always eat it, and you always, always enjoy it. Food is a ritual. We eat in patterns, we cook with reverence, the scents of spices take us back to childhood. Perhaps this menu doesn’t sound hugely appealing to you – but isn’t that really the point? Very little is objectively delicious. But food is layered with time. It’s both gone in an instant and eternal, and more than anything, it’s communal. No matter the food, no matter the celebration, no matter the ritual, when dinner hits the table, we all sit down together.