WORLD OF WINE
BY MIRA HONEYCUTT
Basics of Food and Wine Pairing
O
h, the challenges of pairing food with fine wine! We’ve all been there. Planning that memorable experience of pairing your culinary skills with the wine stocked in your cellar. Food, when consumed with wine, has an effect on the way a wine tastes and vice versa. Generally, though, food has more impact on the way wine will taste than the other way around. There is an art and science to this approach. Let’s start with basic flavors of food — sweetness, saltiness, acidity, chili heat, and umami. Sweetness in food — increases the perception of bitterness and acidity in the wine; and decreases the perception of body, sweetness, and fruitiness in the wine. So, for dishes containing sugar, a general rule is to select a wine with a higher level of sweetness.
rusy viognier. The wine added a touch of acidity, thus complementing the sauce’s umami taste. “Think outside the box,” advised Learned. For example, how to enjoy big red wines in summertime. His answer: a cabernet sauvignon paired with beef in lettuce wraps. Or, for a vegetarian option, a beetroot Napoleon layered with a combination of mascarpone and blue cheese that I tasted, which paired brilliantly with a Robert Hall cabernet sauvignon. Umami in food is a savory taste associated with flavors like the salty taste of Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) or cooked/dried mushrooms. Foods with high levels of umami without salt are challenging to pair, such as asparagus, eggs, and mushrooms. However, certain foods that are high in umami and salt, can counteract the effect of umami on the wine, foods such as cured meats, and hard cheeses. Pair with white wines, Rosés, or low-tannin red wines.
Acidity in food — increases the perception of body, sweetness, and fruitiness in the wine; and decreases the perception of acidity in the wine. Some acidity in food generally is good for pairing as it can bring balance and fruitiness To get an expert’s take, I reached out to a to high acid wine. couple of Paso Robles-based chefs such as Rachel Ponce, who creates memorable pairSalt in food — increases the perception of ings with local wineries, and Michael Learned, body in the wine; and decreases the perception executive chef at Robert Hall Winery. of bitterness and acidity in the wine. Salt can be a wine-friendly component of food and can Both chefs, surprisingly, had a similar take to help wine taste richer and smoother, softening approach the meal’s protein as a blank canvas. some of the harder elements. “I’m really pairing with seasonings and sauces,” said Ponce. Learned concurred, “You don’t taste Chili heat in food — increases the per- the protein itself but the flavors around it.” ception of bitterness, acidity and alcohol burn; and decreases the perception of the body, “The main characteristic of the wine should richness, and fruitiness of the wine. The toler- be there,” Ponce explained. “Food should not ance of chili heat, which is a tactile sensation alter but lift the wine’s character, elevate the rather than one of taste varies from person to experience.” person. Alcohol kicks up the chili’s burning sensation, which can be enjoyable for some Recently I tasted some of Ponce’s appetizers people. Pair with white wines or low-tan- at Nenow Family Wine in Paso Robles. Such nin red and wines both with low alcohol as the Asian chicken meatballs accompanied by content. teriyaki-aioli sauce paired with a bright and citCentralCoastJournal.com
How about comparing and contrasting flavors of food with wine? Such as contrasting sweet and salty flavors, a match made in heaven — think sweet wine with blue cheese. Or spices with dessert wine, suggested Ponce. “Sweetness of wine works well with spice.” How about fatty foods with high acidity wines, which gives a pleasant experience as the wine’s acidity cuts through the food’s richness leaving the palate with a cleansing sensation. In comparing flavors, Learned refers to his sticky rice dish enhanced with elderberry reduction paired with a petite sirah. “The fruit notes in the wine go well with the berry flavors of the sauce.” When it comes to pairing intense flavors both in food and wine, be mindful that they don’t overpower each other. Such as pairing intensely flavored curry dishes. For a tropical Thai curry, an ideal pairing would be a riesling or gewürztraminer; for a North Indian curry rich with cinnamon and cloves, a Southern Rhône red blend would make a good match. While the above guidelines provide the basics, at the end of the day, it’s what your palate desires and your own culinary inspiration to create that memorable food and wine experience. JULY 2022 | 21
