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Features
College Tribune October 6th 2009
Travel
A fruitful taste of the Mediterranean
As the long, cold Winter months of Ireland disembark, Mollie Guidera remembers the many highlights of Seville, the cultural capital of sunny Spain “Seville,” wrote Byron, “is a pleasant city, famous for oranges and women.” He’s bang on. Although he might have added: a city of cultural expanse, authentic Spanish charm, rich in illustrious history and architecture, with a heat so intense that there’s a plethora of ice-cream kiosks to be seen in every plaza. Reaching temperatures of 45 degrees in the height of summer and enjoying a mild winter spectrum, Seville is always ideal for any type of holiday you may have in mind. If you’re looking for a European city which is classic, vibrant and surprisingly cheap, look no further than the provincial capital of Andalucia. Direct flights with Ryanair, an airport in close proximity to the city and many budget options for hotels and apartments are attractive excuses to visit the ancient kingdom. Seville is a city for everyone, with ample scope for party animals, linguists, historians, architects, artists and just those of you who want to elope to the continent for cheap and cheerful frivolity. Part of Seville’s ineffable charm is the lack of English spoken. It truly is the Connemara of Spain; in the most Spanish Spain way, not in the remote way. It is necessary to brush up on your Spanish before you arrive. Flamboyant gestures and affixing “a” to the end of English words just doesn’t work. Seville is unique in its ability to retain its Hispanic influences without being diluted by tourists. You’ll find a colloquial atmosphere with hundreds of tapas bars scattered around the beautiful city, even under the famous Eiffel designed Triana Bridge. Some of the best include those in the eclectic Plaza Alfafa, such as “Bar Giralda;” a converted Moorish bathhouse. The tapas tradition is popular, with grilled, salty bacalao sizzling to the mellow soundtrack of amiable Spanish voices, or the aroma of fresh calamares enticing
you into a bar, perfect with €1 beers. Everything is laid back. Fiestas usually wrap up at about six in the morning, leaving you moseying back for a cheeky siesta before brunch. With such a casual ambiance, and no official dress code, it’s fair to say that flip flops will suffice. However if you’re in the mood for a treat, the romantic Barrio Santa Cruz is a more upmarket quarter and boasts some fabulous cocktail bars and restaurants.
“Seville is unique in its ability to retain its Hispanic influences without being diluted by tourists”
An exception to the pricey area is “Bodegon Pez Espada”, a reputable seafood joint near the cathedral, acclaimed for its all-you-can-eat paella. Elegant horse and carriages form queues along the cathedral wall and can be a fun way of getting home if you barter them down to a reasonable price. Clubs get busy at around 2am, although if enquiring, refrain from using the word ‘club’, instead adopt ‘discoteca’ because a club is a seedy strip club. Schoolboy error. Live music is always a feature in Sevillian clubs like the Fun Club and Poseidon with free entrance and moderately priced drinks. Sangria, Tinto de Verano, shots and various beers won’t damage the funds as they all cost about €1 or €2. You won’t need to splash out on taxis either as the city is easily navigable on a grid of cobbled sidestreets which circulate the centre. Seville at night is safe and well-lit, encompassing
the cathedral which bathes the city in a golden glow, the largest Gothic church in the world. A roof-top visit is well worth all the climbing of spiral stairs because there is nothing like seeing the structural beauty of the city from a platform. The whole city is striking; the Giralda mosque especially stands out, dominating the untainted skyline. No matter what time of year you visit Seville, there is bound to be a feria kicking off. These festival celebrations are usually in honour of patron saints. Semana Santa during Easter week is always spectacular, displaying carnival-style floats and processions of masked penitents, they look like the Ku Klux Klan but don’t be alarmed. Another large festival is Feria de Santa Ana which takes place in August in Triana. Along the river, casetas (tents) are assembled and masses of people spend the week eating, drinking, watching flamenco and firework displays and happily sauntering home in the early hours of the morning. During the day, there are shows and games for young and old, including the Bull-run and the Slippery Pole Challenge, where contestants have to climb up a greased pole suspended over the river and retrieve a flag. Should they succeed there is a lucrative award but then again, hundreds don’t and the award for them is a Tetnis shot and a disinfectant spray-down. As well as the late night banter, there is so much to see and do in Seville which makes it the heart of Andalusian culture, with flamenco music and bullfighting, cathedrals, towers, palaces and parks. Seville is home to a 17th century bullring renowned all over Spain as the best venue to enjoy la corrida. Although controversial, those of you with the appetite for a passionate duel between a bull and a sequined-clad man will thoroughly enjoy it. The spontaneous nature of flamenco
makes it nearly impossible to entertain a 2 show cabaret night so to experience the real thing, check out “Los Gallos,” in Plaza Santa Cruz. Here you will encounter a dance which epitomises the essence of Seville, replete with vivid colours, traditional guitar playing and impassioned women sashaying around in elaborate dresses. After all, Seville is very close to the home of Flamenco; Granada. Seville is the ultimate budding architect’s paradise. As it was one of the earliest Moorish conquests (in 712) it exhibits the Giralda. The ascent of the bell tower is highly recommended if you want a panoramic view from indisputably the most beautiful building in Seville.
A view that vertigo-sufferers should avoid and photographers will love. The Toro de Oro – the Tower of Gold is another mustsee when in Seville. The Main Palace (the Alcazar) depicts all the grandeur of Moorish and Mudejar architecture perfectly, boasting exquisite high ceilings, Renaissance art and patios which rival Granada’s great Alhambra. A well-preserved Roman Theatre in nearby Santiponce is worth a trip outside the city to engage historically with the culture of Andalucia. Frequent buses and trains located centrally are ideal for getting around to nearby highlights like Ronda and the ilex-covered hills of Sierra Morena. A great way to spend the day is in Maria Luisa Park. It is one of the most impressive public gardens in all of Spain and definitely deserves a stroll or a cycle with the free bikes on offer. Never has anyone seen so many pigeons in one place before. Seville is not only a beautiful city, proffering culinary delights and cultural enrichment. The shopping is fantastic. Along the main promenade is a chain of high-street and designer shops, with a Corte Ingles department store and many typical Spanish dress shops and souvenir stalls. Every day the squares host markets and musicians. There is a subtle aspect of Seville which appeals to the traveller; the ease with which the stylish city embraces a relaxed Mediterranean attitude and lifestyle. Amidst the marble pavements and breathtaking regal buildings, a hint of Morocco prevails. Ryanair often advertise cheap flights to Seville. Before 28th September, a return flight to the city is just €38.37. Expect flights to cost about €130 normally, all inclusive, off-peak. Flight sales with Ryanair are a good opportunity to grab a bargain to Seville or other European cities. So what are you waiting for? Vamos!