ADV Rider #65 issue

Anniversary

Celebrating 39 years!

e decided being that as our 39th Wedding Anniversary was coming up, we needed to do a little adventure to celebrate. Initially the intention was to head North and travel some of the country West of Wauchope.

My husband was plotting the intended route when we discovered our intentions had been destroyed by a bushfire the same day! High temperatures and out of control bushfires sent us looking at weather forecasts across South Eastern Australia for a cooler alternate route.

The forecasts showed that heading south was the most viable course to be undertaken with no prediction of significant rain or extreme temperature. So, we pointed the wheels south.

What followed was eight days of motorcycle camping with some of the best riding we have ever done!

Day 1: Central Coast -Oberon -Taralga

We are allergic to expressways and whenever possible stick to quieter roads. This saw our departure from the Central Coast along the Hawkesbury River crossing the river at Wisemans Ferry and the Sackville Ferry to gain the Bells Line of Road over the Blue Mountains. Through Lithgow had us topping off the tanks at Oberon. The intention was to camp at Wombeyan Caves for the night, but the closer we got to the caves, signs began to appear stating that the caves were closed! Maybe it was a misprint? So onwards we travelled to the road barriers that had been placed unreasonably across the road by someone trying to impede our further progress. We halted for a short while whilst my husband scouted ahead. On his return he declared the road was quite suitable for our progress. So, around the barriers

we trundled, travelling stealthily down, so as not to draw any unwanted attention. To our dismay we found at the bottom of the descent all the campsites meshed off with building site barriers and our drawing the unwanted glare of a ranger on a slasher. I think he might have been having a bad day. Quickly, we begin to haul off up a dirt road covered in kangaroos to regain our lost altitude back to the top of the gorge. There was nothing for it. Off to Taralga we headed. (On a previous recent trip through Taralga we discovered that there is no reliable fuel to obtained in the town on a Saturday afternoon, which had left us running on fumes to Crookwell.) As we were now pretty tired, having done over 400km for the day, we headed straight to Taralga Show ground for an awesome shower and a good night’s sleep.

Day 2: Taralga- Marulan-BraidwoodMoruya - Congo Point.

Awaking to a frost on the ground reminds us we are in the Southern Tablelands. Out of town on the Bannaby Road, we pull up at a gorgeous old church for a photo stop and muse that this would be a great spot to be buried.

Onwards we run down Swallow Tail pass and found it to be in really good condition. The run to Marulan sees steadily increasing traffic and we pause in town to top off the tanks and set course for Bungonia Gorge. At the lookout we are awestruck not at the grand natural beauty of the ragged gorge plummeting

below us, but at the giant mining scar on the opposite side of the gorge. The temperature had been climbing and it was good to remount the bikes and run the quiet mixed roads to Braidwood. In town

we spy some large loaded ADV’s at a café. Dutifully we swing in and stake our claim on an adjoining table. These guys are travelling on large KTM’s and GS’s and turn out to be a font of information; giving

u

Words and Images: Vicki Webber

us new route options in country we had previously travelled.

Out of town it was an amazing run down steep tar, before gaining the dirt down the Araluen Valley. Speed was tempered by high temperatures, the bikes were now reading 42 Degrees, lots of twisties and lots of skatey ball bearings in the very numerous corners. It was still lots of fun, but we were glad to exit down near Moruya. Heading to Congo Point we get to within 500M of the campground when we are once again beset by road closure. The ensuing “U” turn sees us making an unintended detour to gain the said campground via some minor roads.

The water available at Congo Point is brackish, saline and undrinkable even after filtering. It was a relief when a nice couple with a big ‘van gave us some water and a bottle of cold VB with which to slake our thirst. Much appreciated on both counts.

Day 3: Congo Point- Eden – Bombala

The Princess Highway after Congo point reminds us why we don’t like highways. We are much more comfortable when we take the Bermagui Road and the fun ride down the coast to Merimbula where we get hung up in midday traffic through the town. Back to the highway until about 25km past Eden when we head up Imlay Road that leads up through the forest to Bombala. Lots of logging trucks on this

road but the road is wide asphalt and they are all coming in the opposite direction, so we have no other competition on our road. Camp was at the local council camp ground, once again amazing showers with heaters but outside was freezing cold. The temperature was 4 degrees but Elders Weather said it felt like -5.6. Rather chilly.

Day 4: Bombala – Delegate -

Orbost -The Snowy River Barry Way campground Willis.

It was freezing cold with a gentle drizzle upon leaving Bombala. We were

regretting not having bought along our winter riding gloves, so we stopped at Delegate to buy rubber dishwashing gloves. We used these as liner gloves under our summer gloves, to try and help keep a little of the wind chill off. It helped a little. We turned off toward Bendoc on some lovely dirt roads surrounded by a towering Mountain Ash forest. We stopped for a break to warm up and take a photo on some steep ground. Bike balanced precariously. A photo, a wee and a warm up. Getting back onto his bike from the high side, my husband knocks his bike over once he gets his leg over the other side. We then get to warm up further by picking up his heavy beast. Shortly after we join the Bonang Road for the constantly twisty run down to Orbost. Quite a few of the speed advisory signs are understated which needs some respect. Great road and great fun all the way to Orbost. We had planned to do a 70km circuit down to the coast and back to Orbost but the southerly was blowing hard and a run along the coast looked like it could be pretty miserable. A quick re-routing sees us swing north again heading through Buchan toward Jindabyne along the Barry Way. We got to celebrate the morning of our 39th wedding anniversary by the Snowy River. No hot showers tonight but a cold dip in the Snowy.

Day 5: Snowy River (Vic) to 3 Mile Dam

via Jindabyne, Khancoban and Cabramurra.

I lost one of my expensive Saloman hiking boots somewhere on the Barry Way. The NSW side was much lumpier than the Victorian side, so I blame the NSW National Parks. Note to self: pay attention to how you attach things to your bike!!

It has snowed in Thredbo and Perisher overnight, and when we were in Jindabyne late in the morning the weather said it was still just above freezing in Thredbo. Fortified by this knowledge, we bought some merino glove liners in anticipation. The run up and over Dead Horse gap was fantastic, not cold at all, so now I have a spare pair of liner gloves. The run down the Alpine Way was as usual epic fun until a close call with a large doe on the side of the road. With a 60-degree slope above and drop off below it didn’t look like the doe had anywhere to go but

in a few effortless strides, it leapt up the 20m embankment to disappear happily into the forest.

Stopping at Khancoban for lunch, there were three guys in plain clothes walking around with pistols holstered at their side chatting and eating lunch. I presume they were police but wasn’t about to ask. It looked like a scene from a Wild West Movie, a little disconcerting. Had a great chat to a guy touring on his Moto Guzzi, having done 40K on his bike in the last 2 years.

Post lunch, we remount and rode the most amazing road to Cabramurra, then on to 3 Mile Dam. This was Swampy Plains Road to the Tooma Road which becomes a steep sinuous strip of asphalt around the Tumut Pondage area. Gorgeous views with absolutely awesome riding on one of the best roads I have ever ridden. The camp site at Three Mile Dam, past Cabramurra, was delightful. We rode between the barriers onto an isthmus jutting out into the dam, whilst it was a long walk to the toilets, we had the place to ourselves. A great spot to celebrate 39 years of marriage!

Day 6: Three Mile Dam- Blowering Dam via Tumbarumba, Tumut, Long Plain.

The howl of wild dogs on the opposite shore accompanies our breakfast. The fog is thick and gives an eerie “out there” feel to the camp. By the time we have packed up, the fog had burned off and the campsite resumed its idyllic atmosphere.

The first part of this day’s ride was a backtrack toward Cabramurra, to Goat Ridge Road. What ensued was more unbelievable twisty roads, descending spectacularly to the Tumut River. Onto the Elliot Way thence the Tooma Road through to Tumbarumba is also great riding but became progressively more mellow.

We avoid Batlow taking the quieter Old Tumbarumba Road to Tumut. Refuelling in Tumut, we travel the Snowy Mountains Highway beside Blowering Dam and climb steeply back up the range to Long

Plain Road. Our plan was to ride Long Plain Road to Brindabella Road then on to Wee Jasper. We had done this a couple of decades before when coming from Wee Jasper to Blue Waterholes. Stopping at the information board at the start of Long Plain Road we are surprised to see a locked gate marked on the map before Brindabella Road. We head out anyway, if we can’t get through maybe we will just camp at Blue Waterholes. The first 10km of Long Plain Road is covered in loose road ballast which is very squirrely to ride. We are u

given some hope when we find another map not showing a locked gate on Long Plain Road. There is an alternative route on Brindabella Road via Broken Cart fire trail. As this track appears before the mythical gate, we poke our noses up this track but find it descending steeply on loose rock after 1.5km. Not a big deal, but we know nothing of the conditions or country this road traverses, so we turn tail and strike back up Long Plain Road. It is some kilometers later that we find a rather definitive sign stating NO access to Brindabella Road. Grrr! Now, time to make a decision on the run.

Initially, we exercise option 1, the Camp at Blue Waterholes, but with no phone reception and the NSW National Parks crappy, book ahead policy, we abandon this idea when we see numerous vehicles heading out there. Option number 2. Head further along the Snowy Mountains Highway to the Boboyan Road, or option number 3 retrace our route to camp at Blowering Dam. After deciding we did not want to go to Canberra, the Boboyan Road option was scrubbed in favour of option 3. Returning to the Snowy Mountains Highway we find the poor gravel surface easier to ride at 60-80km/hr. Fortunately there wasn’t too many corners but the ones we did encounter required careful deceleration and negotiation of deep gravel heaps. In due course we

return to Blowering Dam for a quiet night with the odd emu wandering through the camp.

Day 7: Blowering to Chiefy Dam via Wee Jasper Yass, Crookwell and Rockley.

After procrastinating over route options, we finally settled on a plan of attack. Back all the way to Tumut, we take the Wee

Jasper Road to Bombowlee Creek Road. This linked up with Brindabella Road and then the Nottingham Road. This gives great riding on asphalt and dirt. We used to tow horse floats up Nottingham Road. However, the descent to Micalong creek has become more overgrown, often blind and occasionally deeply rutted. I wouldn’t rush to take a float up there anytime soon. In the Wee Jasper township there is a distillery, where we have an early lunch, with quite a few Canberra bike riders present. Since the asphalting of all the road from Yass, this has become a bit of a local favourite for road bikes. Stopping in Yass we once again develop our plan of attack. Avoiding the Hume Highway, we head to Dalton and Gunning on some often very dusty roads. The reward being is that we only see two other vehicles in 50km. Onto Crookwell, Binda and to a campsite on the Abercrombie. We investigate the campsite whose track is deep river sand interspersed with large river racks to rocks. The place is sandy in the extreme and we find it unappealing. Next option the Trunkey Creek showground where we get a great free shower but leave when we are finished due to the presence of an obnoxious personality. I recalled the guys we met in Braidwood had said the road to Rockley was now in good condition so off we went again. The road was good and we traversed some beautiful farming country and finally called it quits for the day at Chifley Dam.

A free campsite, with toilets, picnic tables, water, gas barbeques and lovely views of the dam. Not a huge amount of flat space to pitch a tent, but as we had the place to ourselves, we had the pick of it.

Colo HeightsLower Portland- St Albans- Home Isn’t there an old saying that goes like: “the last mile from home is the most dangerous?”

The forecast is for a hot and windy day. We head to the Northern side of the Fish River and follow this to Tarana from Tarana to Lithgow. All great riding. We stop near Bilpin for some lunch and as we park the bikes this Indian guy pokes his head out of the restaurant then retreats. Curious. We place our order and this gentleman comes over to chat. “I heard the bikes. I knew they must be Royal Enfields!”, he says excitedly. We talk for about 20 minutes, lovely guy. He has seven bikes in India but his Australian wife won’t let him have one over here. Talk about a frustrated rider. He comes out to wave us goodbye and we both leave with a big smile.

Down Mountain Lagoon Road we test out the new bridge across the Colo River at Upper Colo then climb steeply to Colo Heights. Out along Wheelbarrow Ridge Road we miss the Wheelbarrow track turnoff. As the roadworks on Wheelbarrow Ridge Road had been completed, the detour sign for the track had been removed. We continued reluctantly onward to Lower Portland. It was now very hot, and the riding on a very narrow occasionally asphalt, often dirt road descended and followed the river. The speed limit is 50km/h but with the narrow loose surface we were only doing 40kmph. I’m sure I saw a sign prohibiting caravans on this road. My husband was in front, when around a blind corner a four-wheel drive towing a caravan appeared. No possibility to brake without a collision he swings into the loose drainage on the left. Still doing 40, the front wheel tucks to the left and with a quick dab pushes the bike back up where the front wheel immediately tucks to the right. Another dab to the right corrects the bike as the four-wheel drive following the tail of the caravan steams past. He brings his bike to a stop and I’m sure his previously sweaty underwear, has now taken on a serious shade of brown. All of this had occurred in a space no greater

than 1.2m wide. Neither vehicle had braked at all. The fun was not over yet as we climb steeply up on loose dirt hairpins when my husband yells over the comms’ STOP! GET OFF THE ROAD! As a dutiful wife, I do as instructed for a change. He is now stuck part of the way through a steep loose dirt hairpin and no space to complete the turn due to the presence of three closely spaced descending four-wheel drives. After some vehicle shuffling, some space is created and he is able to get his fully loaded bike off the steepest part of the hairpins apex.

We continue but have had just about enough by now with the heat, the near death experience and now a 500M queue of cars waiting for the Webb Creek Ferry. Once again, we change our route on the run as we overtake all the vehicles and head to St Albans rather than Wisemans Ferry. A dusty run up to Bucketty sees us descending down to the coast with the bikes now reading 41 degrees. It has been a long hot day, and we were glad to be back home. Store the gear, wash the bikes and collapse.

A great ride and a worthy 39th anniversary experience!