ADV Rider #65 issue

Winter Trails and

Mountain Tales

Winter Motorcycle Camping in Northeast Victoria

Words and images John McLennan

In the heart of winter, the Australian Alps transform into a rugged wonderland, where icy winds whip through the trees and the landscape is painted in shades of white and grey. When winter rolls around our choices for two wheeled

adventures, at least nearby, become more limited. The mountains are covered in snow, and the weather is at zero or below in our favourite alpine riding mecca! For me, it’s time to go back to basics and revisit some old-time favourite camping spots!

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A long-time favourite of mine is Mountain Creek Campground near Tawonga in Northeast Victoria. A visit to this place is all about getting back to nature! I have always been drawn to this

picturesque region in Northeast Victoria.

In fact, I have camped at this campground at the base of Mount Bogong, Victoria’s highest mountain, 1986 metres above sea level, regularly for more than 35 years,

Above: Mitta Mitta Pub has excellent meals and a relaxing beer garden on the Mitta Mitta River.

Top right: Delicious pies at the Mitta Mitta General Store. I hear the hamburgers are great!

Below: Trappers Gap Road checking gear before heading up to Mount Emu

The journey begins just outside Wodonga, where the urban fringes give way to the rolling foothills of the Alps. Despite the cold, the ride is exhilarating. The clear, crisp air enhances every sensation, from the wind rushing past, to the rumble of the engine! Heading through Tangambalanga, and then onto

the foothills of the Australian Alps and has a population of around 170. Arriving here feels like stepping back in time, and the charm of this small town is evident.

climbed nearby Mount Bogong many times, and hiked and motorbiked the trails and tracks extensively. For those seeking an adventure that pushes the limits and offers unparalleled natural beauty, this ride is an excellent choice.

The BMW F900 GS Enduro proves to be an ideal companion, handling the diverse terrains with ease!

Come along as I take the BMW F900 GS Enduro up to this beautiful region, visit an icy Mount Emu, the quiet rustic town of Mitta Mitta, ride the back tracks and ridge lines, to finally spend a night camping at one of Victorias most scenic campgrounds. A journey that combines the thrill of the ride with the serenity of nature. As I know adventure bike riders are a curious lot, I will give a rundown of my winter camping/riding setup as well! Camping in winter is a unique experience. The cold is pervasive, but with the right gear, it’s manageable. Thorough planning is essential. As is the correct gear.

Tallangatta, I am looking forward to getting off the asphalt and out of the cold wind!

About 5km outside Tallangatta, I turn right down Yabba Road, and head towards Callaghan Creek Road, which will take me through some open terrain, then some beautiful bushland and eventually bring me to Mitta Mitta.

Nestled by the banks of the Mitta Mitta River, the historic buildings and the tranquil atmosphere offer a stark contrast to the adrenaline-fueled ride along Callaghan Creek Road. It’s a good place to take a break, refuel both your bike and you, and maybe even chat with some locals for information on the roads. In winter the road to Omeo is subject to snow, and often closes in winter due to snow drifts. I highly recommend the pies at the Mitta Mitta General Store, and the beer garden behind the local pub is outstanding, situated on the beautiful Mitta River.

A check of the gear ensures everything is in place for the more challenging sections to come. The river’s gentle flow and the surrounding greenery provide a stark contrast to the upcoming rugged terrains of Trappers Gap and Mount Emu. I decide to alter my plans slightly, and head directly over Trappers Gap Road, taking a shorter route as I am starting to wonder if there will be competition for the camping spot I have in mind for the night, considering it is school holidays in Victoria at present. The track starts only a couple of kilometres outside Mitta and leads along Trappers Gap Road with a scenic long straight section of dirt road to mark departing asphalt! Winding through the bush, the road is perfect territory for the GS! Trappers Gap Road joins Mitta Mitta with Mount Beauty and Tawonga, just under 50km. I enjoy this section, stopping to admire the views of Mount Bogong in its full beauty! u

Trappers Gap

Road and climbs to the magnificent summit of Mount Emu, which stands at an elevation of 1,360 metres.

To arrive on the open summit of Mount Emu is nothing short of breath taking!

I spend some time to take it all in before I decide to descend to Mountain Creek via a tight little track that rejoins Mountain Creek Road, from there it’s only 2km or so to the campground.

The Final Stretch: Mount Emu to Mountain Creek Campground

With the afternoon sun casting long shadows, it’s time to head towards the Mountain Creek Campground. This leg of the journey is shorter but no less scenic. The road narrows as it winds through the foothills, the forest closing in around you. Occasionally, the canopy opens to reveal breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks in the distance

and across the valley below. The F900 GS feels comfortable on this tight, damp and icy track. The occasional wet slippery log across the track catches me unaware but I manage to save it every time! The anticipation builds as I get closer to the campground, knowing that starting a warm fire will be the first task at hand. A critical part of winter camping is warmth, and your campfire.

Setting Up Camp: Mountain Creek Campground

Reaching Mountain Creek Campground as the day fades is a welcome relief. Here you’re greeted by the serene beauty of the alpine environment. Nestled by a creek and surrounded by towering trees, the campground offers a sense of seclusion and peace. Nestled at the base of Mount Bogong, this is a popular spot for adventurers. In winter, it’s quieter, with fewer campers braving the cold. The cold is more pronounced here, with temperatures dropping sharply as the sun sets. When the campfire is lit, the cold becomes more manageable, giving way to a cosy warmth. The priority here is to have a strong fire with plenty of red coals for warmth as soon as possible. I prefer three or four fire lighters and some dry kindling, and quickly build the fire. By the time the tent is up you will be able to enjoy the

Above: The magnificent summit of Mount Emu

Left: A small track brings you down from Mount Emu summit to Mountain Creek Campground.

warmth of the fire. Always carry fire lighters and dry matches with you, especially when travelling solo. Can you imagine, in the event of an accident or emergency in a remote cold location messing around with flint or rubbing two sticks together to keep warm? Setting up camp in winter requires some preparation. A sturdy tent, a high-quality sleeping bag rated for sub-zero temperatures, and plenty of clothing layers are essential.

Below: The campground is extremely scenic, with the beautiful mountain stream and nature providing a relaxing background symphony! u

Above: The MSR Hubba Hubba light weight backpacking tent is ideal for winter camping. It is strong, roomy and full of features! Weighs only 1.3kg it is very popular amongst hikers!

Below: All Day Breakfast from On Track Meals is my go-to when camping. Absolutely delicious! In fact, all their meals are convenient and delicious! Just boil them up and eat from the pouch! www.ontrackmeals.com

The Night: Embracing the Chill

The night at Mountain Creek Campground is a mix of challenges and rewards. Thankfully I had arranged a mate to drop off a stash of dry firewood earlier in the week. Alternatively, I use my Silky folding saw to cut firewood as I near my camping site and strap it onto the bike. The cold is intense, but the clear skies reveal a canopy of stars that seem almost within reach. The sound of the creek, the crackling of the campfire, and the occasional call of nocturnal wildlife create a symphony that is both calming and invigorating.

Sitting by the fire, you reflect on life in general! I believe there is no better way to focus and think, than when you are comfortable and warm watching the bush television! After the day’s journey, and despite the cold, there’s a sense of warmth – from the fire, from the adventure, and from the sheer beauty of this beautiful campground. The mountain stream flows fiercely, full of the recent rain, and provides a relaxing continuous pleasing backdrop, as enjoy a glass of red. I start to think about previous trips here, and how I have spent hundreds of nights over the years staring at this very campfire, listening to the beautiful soothing sound of the mountain stream. As I start to think towards turning in, the night is cold, with temperatures dropping well below freezing. But the sense of accomplishment and the warmth of the fire make it all worthwhile. Dinner is a simple affair, with hot homemade stew and crusty bread rolls. A tasty feast after the day’s exertions. As I hop into bed, I put on my layers being my merino thermals as a base layer, a thin fleece as a mid-layer, then my down jacket and my fleece beanie. Then wait for the sleeping bag to do its work! The benefit of layering is you can remove or add a layer as required to regulate your body temperature. Add a layer if cold, remove a layer if too warm. The sound of the river puts me into a deep sleep in no time, one of the best night’s sleep I have had in a long time!

Morning and Departure

I am usually up early before the sun rises when camping. My bike gauge reads -2 degrees. Again, attending to the number 1 priority of a warm strong fire. Getting breakfast under way is simple, an Allday Breakfast from Ontrack meals is my current preference for breakfast. It’s easy, takes up minimal room in your luggage and along with a Moccona Cappuccino satchel I am good to go. Packing up with a resolve to face the cold again! The ride back home is just as exhilarating, the big Beemer feeling even more like an extension of myself. The return journey offers a chance to see the landscape in a new light, with the early morning sun casting long shadows and illuminating the beauty of winter.

My moto camping gear setup in 1990.

I have a tyre strapped on the bike as this is just after Cape York where I had this cheap knobby fitted. It lasted for ages! Gear sack luggage and a Dri Rider jacket from memory! Bike is a 1990 DR650 RS. Occy straps hold it all together!

Revolutionizing Adventure: Lightweight Camping Gear for Hiking and Motorcycling

In recent years, the adventure bike riding community has witnessed a remarkable transformation thanks to cutting-edge advancements in lightweight camping gear. Modern innovations have produced ultra-lightweight tents, sleeping bags, and

2024 BMW F900 GS Enduro, Kriega luggage, Arai Tour X5 Discovery helmet, BMW Enduroguard suit, Kriega backpack, BMW GS Rallye gloves and Gotthard Gore-Tex boots www.bmw-motorrad.com.au

My 2024 setup.

cooking equipment, specifically designed to cater to the needs of both hikers and motorcyclists. These gear advancements not only significantly reduce the weight and bulk traditionally associated with camping, but also enhance durability and functionality. New materials like Dyneema and advanced composites are leading the charge, offering exceptional strength-to-

weight ratios. Compact, portable power solutions and solar chargers ensure adventurers can stay connected and powered up even in remote locations. As technology continues to evolve, the line between comfort and adventure blurs, allowing enthusiasts to explore further and camp more efficiently than ever before.

Camping Gear

MSR Hubba Hubba Lightweight backpacking tent.

www.wildearth.com.au

Big Agnes Q Core Insulated Deluxe sleeping mat 30x78cm.

www.wildearth.com.au

Exped REM pillow.

www.tomsoutdoors.com.au

Western Mountaineering Alpinlite sleeping bag.

Cooking Gear

Soto Windmaster light weight hiking stove.

www.wildearth.com.au

Conclusion:

of Winter Riding

Riding and camping in winter is more than just a journey – it’s an adventure that tests your limits and rewards you with unforgettable memories. The cold is a challenge, but it’s also part of what

makes the experience so special. It sharpens your senses, enhances the beauty of the landscape, and makes the warmth of a campfire feel even more magical.