Horse news quarterly first issue

R OCKY S PRINGS H ORSE NEWS Q UARTERLY Special Free Issue

April 15 2014 Volume 1, Number 1

https://www.facebook.com/RSRHorseNewsQuarterly

Rocky Springs Ranch, LLC.

Hello, Neighbors!

By Claudia J Swisher Welcome to the inaugural issue of Horse News Quarterly.

Our purpose is to provide specialized information to our equine-owning neighbors. In this and future issues we will attempt to give you interesting articles and the latest news and information from out local horse world. The publication will keep you posted on equine events and activities in Winchester, Frederick, Clarke, Shenandoah and Warren Counties in Virginia and in neighboring Hampshire County and Martinsburg, WV. This publication, like all new things, will grow and develop as we gain experience in knowing what you are interested in seeing. In this first edition you will find articles by equine professionals and horse owners who have interesting stories to tell. To the right you will find an Inside This Issue box to guide you through this first number’s offerings. In subsequent issues, you will find more breaking news from our area, information about new products, seasonal advice, regular features like Kids Corner, 4-H News Report, Tips from the Professionals, and Ask the Professional along with an Activities Calendar.

Fancy’s Story

INSIDE THIS ISSUE Hello Neighbors Fancy’s Story YOUR BODY SPEAKS LOUDLY TO YOUR HORSE Healing with Honey Companionship for Horses and Ponies IT TURNS OUT, YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER Therapeutic Riding Shenandoah Community Calendar Spring Pasture Renovation Shenandoah Valley Equine Rescue Network 4-H News Report Safety Tips from the Professionals (trailers) Tack Care Tips

page 1 page 1-2 page 2 page 3-4 page 4 page 5 page 5 page 6 page 7 page 8 page 9 page10-11 page 12

Your editor is Claudia J. Swisher, owner of Rocky Springs Ranch, LLC. And founder of Balanced Awareness Horsemanship. Claudia is a life-long resident of the Winchester/Frederick County area. Follow her on Facebook or visit her blog for more valuable information at http://ofhorsesandhumans.blogspot.com.

Questions about horses or suggestions for future articles should be e-mailed to rsr.cswisher@gmail.com.

Contributed news or articles may be e-mailed or snail mailed to Rocky Springs Ranch, 116 Pinetop Road, Gore, VA 22637. If you are interested in advertising a business, product or service, call us on 540 858 3090 for our rates.

By Kim Meyers

In February 2010, a foal was born in Frederick County Virginia. Her mother was a solid black paint, with a white blaze on her nose and 3 white feet. She was a pretty mare, with a tired look in her eyes. The foal was a solid black filly with a lot of spunk and vinegar from the day she was born.

She was tough and that was a good thing, because the farm where she was born was not a fit home for any of the 40+ horses that lived there, and certainly not fit for a baby. The horses often went without grain, hay or water. There was nothing but frozen ground to pick at, and not enough of that to support the herd. Every horse at that farm hated humans because nothing kind had ever been shown them. It had been a particularly cold winter, and February continued in this pattern. I owned 2 horses that I boarded in the county and I heard that 5 rescue horses were coming that weekend to the barn. Since there was not a rescue at that time to provide support, I was interested in helping with their care and support financially. It took several hours to get them unloaded and settled in their new homes. Two of the horses were yearlings with a body scale of 11/2 and 2, another was a tired old pony with Cushings, and the black mare and her foal. After vet checks and getting them in stalls separated from the rest of the horses, we stepped back and looked closely at the work ahead of us. It was then that I really looked at the youngest member of the group. I fell in love with that foal immediately, and even though there was nothing that she knew about humans that told her to trust me-she did. Claudia gave her to me on the spot and she became the focus of my time at the barn.

Fancy’s Story is continued on page 2.

116 Pinetop Rd., Gore, VA 22637

Page 2

Fancy’s Story

Horse News Quarterly

continued from page 1.

She was very malnourished, with frost bitten ear tips that were very sore. She was also born with an umbilical hernia that needed special care. The mare’s milk had all but dried up so most of baby’s nourishment came from hay and soaked grain. Claudia, my horse expert, knew the right nutrients and exactly how to care for both mother and baby. I was able to pet her, and touch her a little from the beginning. I started spending my afternoons grooming her mother and fussing over her. It really paid off, because the filly stuck right with us and soon I was able to brush her. The mare’s milk came back and both horses began to thrive. It was very rewarding to have a baby that looked for me every day and followed me all around the pasture. It was about a month before I named her. After watching her run and prance-I settled on Fancy Prancer, and today we call her Fancy. Fancy is now almost 4 years old. Her training has all been by Claudia and myself. I prepared her for all the work ahead by spending time with her every day, feeding her and grooming her, walking her, and training her in ground manners. Claudia has very deliberately started her training. I have assisted where I could and trusted Claudia to teach Fancy and keep me safe. So far her efforts have paid off. I am able to work Fancy in the round pen at liberty and with a rope halter. I am able to saddle her and sit on her and walk in the round pen with just a halter to guide her. I am able to groom her without tying her and she tries new things with Claudia and myself as her guides. I cannot wait until I can saddle her and climb on and ride as I do my other horses.

YOUR BODY SPEAKS LOUDLY TO YOUR HORSE

By Dr. Joseph Cheff There are many aids you can use to communicate to your horse. But, if the source is not transmitting clearly, your horse may be responding correctly to an improper command. Your body speaks loudly to your horse. Make sure you are giving the correct signals. Basic, basic, is to make sure your body is in proper alignment. When the body is in symmetrical alignment, it is balanced; right to left, front to back, diagonal to diagonal and top to bottom. Sometimes what feels correct is not correct. Get someone to observe your standing and sitting posture. From a front or back view, you want to see the head, shoulders and pelvis level with the horizon. From a side view, you want to see the ear canal over the tip of the shoulder, over the top of the hip, over the ankle. These alignments are fundamental. If you have difficulty achieving this balanced alignment, seek help from your trainer and/or chiropractor. Once confidentially there, you have power, you have stability and you have adaptability. From here, you are clear to your horse where you are. You can connect and be understood.

When you are in good alignment, your proprioceptive nerves are signaling comfort to your brain and then in return, your brain is signaling ease throughout your body. Thus, you communicate ease to your horse.

For a starter, you can become more familiar with your “sit bones”. At the bottom of your pelvis is called the ishial tuberocities (A.K.A “sit bones”). This is what makes contact on the saddle. Try this: Sit on a level surface and place your hands, palm side up with your fingers under your “sit bones”. Now, slide the “sit bones” forward across your fingers and then back. Feel them move across your fingers. You can go fast and you can go slowly. Next, sink your weight down more to the right, then to the left. Go slow and linger. Feel and pay attention to what you feel. You can add squeezing your butt muscles, your belly muscles and your inner thigh muscles with the various positions.

This is a good way to start your balanced awareness. With good alignment, will come good movement, which will bring good communication in yourself and to your horse.

To your Good Health, naturally.

Dr. Cheff is a practicing chiropractor since 1981. He practices in Woodstock, Virginia. Dr. Cheff gives talks on Quality of Life, Living, Chiropractic care for horses and dogs. He and his wife Stephanie live on a 30 acre farm with their 3 horses, 4 dogs and 9 cats.

Page 3

Horse News Quarterly

Healing with Honey

It was a balmy Sunday night. I was a year or so out of school, with a spirit too high to be deterred by any emergency, when the call came in: “yearling with a pretty big cut

by Cheryl L. Detamore, DVM on the front of her shoulder.” My enthusiasm quickly faded when I saw the filly with an open wound over her tiny chest bigger than my hand.

While cleaning the wound, I went about the hard business of explaining that conventional treatment was simply not an option. The skin and subcutaneous tissues were ripped away, revealing the underlying muscle. Then, as the reality of the situation finally set in, I had a revelation. So with as much confidence as I could muster, I explained that we would try an old remedy - honey. Needless to say, I could see the skepticism on the owners’ faces as I told them to go shopping for raw honey, lots of it. Meanwhile, I gave the filly a tetanus shot and applied a half bottle of honey they had on hand - grocery store honey, but better than nothing - and left them with instructions to apply a generous amount of honey daily.

Each time I checked on the little gal, I was amazed at how well she was responding to the honey regimen. There were no signs of infection and the wound margins were rapidly shrinking. Within a few months, the only evidence of the trauma was a thin diagonal scar. And so began my love affair with honey. Many years later I still marvel at the healing power of this amazing substance. But while it’s beginning to gain momentum in human practice, honey is not widely used in veterinary medicine.

Dating back thousands of years, the healing power of honey is well documented.

Anthropologists have evidence that Egyptians used it as a remedy as early as 5,000 years ago, while Roman soldiers carried it into battle. Ancient cave paintings, meanwhile, depict primitive people robbing bees of their honey.

Considering the healing properties of honey, its loyal following throughout history is no surprise. Honey rapidly clears existing infection, while preventing additional invasion. This is because most bacteria are not capable of existing in the presence of honey due to its low-water content. That’s in addition to a low acidity that inhibits the growth of bacteria. An antioxidant, honey also gains wound- fighting strength from another naturally occurring process: hydrogen peroxide is produced when honey is diluted by wound secretions, which aids in the natural debridement (removal of dead or damaged tissue) of wounds while preventing bandages from sticking. As a result, bandages can be left in place longer without being changed. This phenomenon is also responsible for reducing wound odors.

A natural anti-inflammatory, honey reduces swelling while stimulating epithelial tissue to expand - contributing to rapid healing with minimal scarring. Honey also appears to alleviate pain and helps boost the immune system. Consult your veterinarian before starting a honey regimen.

While honey from your favorite grocery store may look pretty and impart a nice sweetness to your favorite tea, it’s a long way from raw honey. That’s because much of the therapeutic value is lost during processing. Pasteurized honey has been heated to reduce moisture, which helps prevent granulation and improves shelf life; however, this process also diminishes the healing constituents of honey.

As with anything else, organic is generally better. Organic honey is produced from hives untreated with antibiotics or pesticides - a real challenge in times with so much hive disease. In fact, organic bee colonies are maintained without using any chemicals and the hives are isolated in environmentally pure areas free from any potential contaminants. Organic honey can be certified by national or independent agencies. Don’t assume that just because it’s raw honey that it’s organic as well.

Because raw honey isn’t heated, it is prone to crystallization. This is a natural process and doesn’t harm the honey. When stored in large containers and at room temperature, it is less likely to granulate, but placing honey in the refrigerator will hasten the process.

However, honey can be successfully frozen and thawed at room temperature without detrimental effect. When honey does crystallize, applying low heat will dissolve the crystals. But once dissolved, it should be demoted to kitchen use, as any amount of heat will diminish its therapeutic value.

A visit to your local natural foods store will reveal a variety of raw honeys, all unique in color and clarity. Most raw honeys are sold in glass containers, but some producers offer the classic plastic honey-bear-bottle design. When shopping for raw honey, you’ll also encounter different varieties, such as clover, wildflower and tupelo. The flowers from which bees collect nectar contribute to the flavor and aroma of honey, and also determine its variety. Don’t be intimidated by the many different varieties; it’s simply a matter of personal choice. I’ve used practically all of them.

I have to admit, I’m fond of the honey-bear bottle (with tip) because it provides me better precision over small or hard- to-reach areas, while a tongue depressor and a large jar works Honey also appears to best for extensive conditions. Whatever your method, apply a generous coating of honey alleviate pain and helps boost daily.

More severe conditions may require attention several times a day. After the initial the immune system. cleaning, avoid cleansing the area between applications - this will disrupt the healing process and introduce contamination. Just continue to add honey over top of the existing residue.

Healing with Honey continued on page 4

Page 4

Horse News Quarterly

Healing with Honey continued from page 3.

Since then, my use of honey has multiplied and evolved numerous times over. I discovered many other uses besides catastrophic wounds. And, at the same time, I began exploring other natural remedies to complement my use of honey. I currently use a combination of honey, lanolin and essential oils in a salve I developed (www.MeliHeal.com). Using the highest-quality, therapeuticgrade ingredients found in nature, it creates an optimal environment for healing. And by enhancing the honey with other natural ingredients, I’ve been able to expand my use of honey to a wide range of common equine aliments: thrush, rain rot, ringworm, frostbite, sunburn, dermatitis, allergic reactions and skin infections.

As you can see, my career has taken many turns since I first experienced the curative properties of honey. You might even say that the filly I treated all those years ago and I have grown up together: she has thrived and so has my veterinary practice. To this day, I’m still a hero to her owners. Not because she overcame a potentially life-threatening injury but, I like to think, because of my courage to go out on a limb. And it’s all because of honey.

A graduate of Tuskegee University School of Veterinary Medine, Dr. Detamore practiced integrative equine medicine in Kentucky, Virginia, and West Virginia for over 15 years. She now lives in Winona, Kansas. www.MeliHeal.com

Companionship for Horses and Ponies

By Susan Murch

Being herd animals, horses and ponies, like having a companion to spend time with. You need not have to go to the expense of and other equine to fill the void. A barn buddy can be any creature who will interact with your equine friend.

My friend Sally has a gelding, Thunder, who has a wether goat, castrated male, for a friend. Joey, the goat, eats, drinks, sleeps and does about everything else with Thunder. Thunder is aggressive towards other horses, but lets his pal Joey do everything that he will not tolerate from another horse including standing on his back. They truly are good friends.

I have seen and heard of cats, dogs, rabbits, pigs, ravens and chickens befriending horses. In my barn my horse Mac, who would run down any horse put in his space, befriended Buffy, a hen I had saved after being savaged by her coop mates. She had run of the barn. She would roost on his door at night. He would bury his muzzle in her fluffy feathers and just let her sleep there.

She was with him constantly, eating under his feet all the time. if he laid down she laid with or on him. When nights got cold she slept on his back. It was a unique relationship. He accepted her without question.

You can even fill that void by just spending short spells of quality time, several times a day. Just sitting and watching them, petting and talking to them, let them know you are there to be more than a trainer or rider, but also a loving friend.

Susan Murch, originally from the New England area, now resides in Augusta WV with her husband, three dogs, a few hens, a pony and a young mare. She was trained in classical Dressage, was a USDF Instructor/trainer and judge in the New England and east th coast region up to 4 level Dressage. She has worked with feral horses, young stock and timid riders.

“Helping you to help your horses thru kindness and consistency”.

Phone 304 856 2976 email: suzan.murch@yahoo.com

Page 5

Horse News Quarterly

IT TURNS OUT, YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER

It turns out, you can lead a horse to water and yes, he will

By Stephanie J. Cheff drink and drink and drink, that is, if it’s Kangen Water.

Olympic and Breeders Cup trainer, Jeff Jensen, swears by Kangen Water, for all his horses. He reports his horse’s love it! They move better, have better digestion and recover quicker from infection. Even training is better with better energy and reaction time What is Kangen Water? It is water that is Alkalized through Ionization. The Ionization process takes regular tap water, runs it through the Kangen Ionizing Machine and creates water that is clean, better Hydrating and rich in Antioxidants. The water molecule clusters are now much smaller, making them Super Hydrating. Simultaneously the machine is creating acid water that comes out through a second hose. This acidic water has super antibacterial and antifungal properties.

The 9.5 Alkalized water, is what horses drink while the Acidic 2.5 water is what is used on the horses. The acidic water is used for rain rot, scratches, thrush, cuts and injuries.

With all of these uses, it’s easy to see why Jeff Jensen, myself and other horse people, Love Kangen Water for their Horses!

Stephanie Cheff lives with her husband in the Shenandoah Valley along with her horses, dogs and cats. She and her husband, Dr. Joeseph Cheff own Cheff Chiropractic Care. Stephanie is also a distributor of Kangen Water Ionizers. www.wateriam.com

Therapeutic Riding in the Northern Shenandoah Valley

For seven years, the Blue Ridge Center for Therapeutic Horsemanship has served children and adults with disabling

By Margie Youngs conditions in the northern Shenandoah Valley.

Based in Clarke County at 420 Russell Rd in Berryville, BRCTH offers 8-week spring and fall sessions as well as two, one-week summer day camps.

The center offers Equine Facilitated Learning (EFL) as well as the more traditional therapeutic riding experience which uses riding instruction to address individual student’s strengths and deficit areas. EFL is focused more on psycho-social learning and stresses observation of horse behavior, utilizing un-mounted ground exercises to build trust and self-esteem.

BRCTH is a member operating center of the Professional Association for Therapeutic Horsemanship, International (PATH) and of the Therapeutic Riding Association of Virginia (TRAV). Executive Director, Marjorie Youngs, M.Ed. and the other two instructors who teach for BRCTH are PATH certified, and hold additional certifications that enhance their effectiveness. BRCTH serves children, from age 5, and adults with cognitive, physical and emotional disabilities in a safe, structured and fun environment.

BRCTH is a 501(c)(3), non-profit organization that relies heavily on volunteers to help with lessons and with many other roles. Orientation for new lesson volunteers is at 6:00 on April 2nd. Trainees then attend one of several hands-on training sessions offered the following week. Horse leaders must have horse experience, but side walkers, although preferred, do not. Minimum age for lesson volunteers is 14, but younger youth can still help in other ways.

If interested, contact Volunteer Coordinator, Esther Forcey at 301-873-6728 or at volunteerbrcth@gmail.com.

The 8-week Spring Session begins the week of April 21, and the first week of day camp is June 23 – 27. A second week is tentatively planned for July 7-11. There are openings for new students this spring, and lessons are taught on Monday through Thursday afternoons and on Saturdays.

For more information or to request a registration packet, contact them at 540-533-2777 brcthinc@hotmail.com.

Page 6

Horse News Quarterly

Shenandoah Community Calendar

June 1 Eastern Panhandle Saddle club Pleasure show.

April 6 Equine Extravaganza It is held at the Warren County Fairgrounds outside Front Royal, Va. Currently it is scheduled for April 6th with a rain date of April 13th. There will be demonstrations, breed exhibitions and many vendors and booths of local craftsman. Lots to learn and lots of fun for all ages. Contact Kelly for more information at ponygirl86@comcast.net.

June 5 and 19 Barrel Racing series at Maple Hill Arena 540 336 3170

April 12 Tack sale and swap. @ Tractor Supply Woodstock everyone welcome!! bring your horse/ dog related items and a table and join us!

Setup @ 7:30 am. Sale starts @ 8:00 am.. All sellers buyers welcome!!

Contact Jane Johnson 1-540-335-1268 for more information.

April 13 Eastern Panhandle Saddle club Fun Show starts at 1 pm. In Martinsburg. For more information contact Megan Magaha 1 540 931 4560 April 19 Rocky Springs Ranch Trail Ride and cook out. $10 cover charge (Bring your own horse, you must have a current coggins 1 pm. Trail will be about an 1 1/2 hours more or less. Return and start cook out. Please bring your beverages and a side dish. The farm will supply hamburgers, hot dogs and buns. Call 1 540 858 3090 April 19 First of the season Locke Meadows Horse Show Series. Go to www.LockeMeadows.com for more information and directions April 26 Cowboy Dressage Open Clinic 10 am - 12noon Learn what Cowboy Dressage is all about at Rocky Springs Ranch in Gore, VA. Fee is $25 (Rocky Spring Member fee is $20) Auditing free Call 540 858 3090 April 27 Cowboy Dressage Practice 2 pm till dark. This is an open arena practice every Last Sunday of the month at Rocky Springs. Fee is $10. Call for information 540 858 3090.

May 1 Barrel racing series Maple Hill Arena, Winchester VA 540 336 3170 -------------May 7, June 5 & 19, July 3 & 17, August 7 & 21------------------May 3 Balanced Awareness Ground Schooling clinic 10 am – 12 noon $45 -Beginning Ground Driving Clinic 2 pm – 4 pm $45 or do both for $70 NO AUDITING for this clinic. Rocky Springs Ranch, Gore VA call 540 858 3090 to register. (rain date is May 10th ) May 17 Balanced Awareness Bomb Proofing clinic 10 am – 12 noon break Obstacle course clinic 2pm – 4pm -----------Fee for either one is $45 or do both for $70. Rocky Springs Ranch, Gore VA 540 858 3090 for information.

May 24 Cowboy Dressage Clinic 10 am – 12 noon. Then stay and join us for lunch. $25 Rocky Springs Ranch For more information call 540 858 3090 to register.

May 25 Cowboy Dressage Practice open arena $10 fee. 2pm to 6 pm.

May 31 Eastern Panhandle Saddle club Speed Show.

Visit us on Facebook and like us. We will be listing more activities and events on our page as we become aware of them.

Go to https://www.facebook.com/RSRHorseNewsQuarterly

June 7 Balanced Awareness Adult Rider ‘s Camp at Rocky Springs. All Day 8 am – 6 pm 540 858 3090 June 14 RSR Trail ride 4 pm then cook out afterward. 540 858 3090 June 23 --- 25 Teen horse camp . Three day activities from 8 am to 6 pm .

Bring your horse or use ours. Learn about horse care and enhance your riding skills for beginners to advanced riders Ages 13 to 18 For more Information and registration call 540 858 3090 June 28 Cowboy Dressage Clinic at Rocky Springs Ranch 540 858 3090 June 29 Cowboy Dressage Practice at Rocky Springs Arena July 3 and 17 Barrel Racing series at Maple Hill Arena 540 336 3170 July 7 – 9 Youth horse camp 8 am – 1 pm for ages 6 to 12 all levels from beginner to intermediate English and western . Bring your horse or use ours. Please register early as space is limited 540 858 309 If you have an event, activity or would like to post please contact us at rsr.cswisher@gmail.com or go to our Facebook page, like us and post your event. We hope to add more to the page as we find out about them.

Page 7

Horse News Quarterly

Spring Pasture Renovation - Southern States From time to time, pastures need to be renovated. Pasture renovation is a relatively easy process that involves improving the soil pH, controlling weeds and adding new seed to increase forage yield and quality. There are two primary issues which create the need for renovation: 1. Reduction of overall stand 2. Reduction in palatable plants.

The reduction of overall stand is easy for everyone to see. When grasses, like tall fescue or orchard grass, start to show clumping, the plant populations are too low.

It is best to renovate a pasture in decline prior to significant weed invasion, especially in a pasture where there is a combination of both broad leaf legumes, like alfalfa and clover, and grass. However, before spending money to renovate, it is best to control as many weeds as possible. If this means applying an herbicide that will kill most of the legumes, simply add more legume seed to the renovation mixture. The reverse is true if it is a grass type weed you need to control.

It is more difficult to notice a reduction in palatable plants. Animals will tend to graze the most palatable plants in a pasture regardless of species. This ultimately leads to a pasture that may look healthy, but is actually causing a reduction in animal performance. The loss of performance is caused by a reduction in daily forage intake. For this reason alone, it is a good idea to renovate a pasture every few years to ensure the highest number of palatable, high yielding plants possible per acre. If there have been genetic improvements in your pasture varieties, this is a good time to incorporate new varieties into an old pasture.

Fall is probably the best time to renovate pastures, but if the opportunity for fall renovation is missed, spring is a good alternative. If spring is too full of other activities to send time on pasture renovation, there are still some things you can do to prepare for a successful renovation later in the year or the following year, like soil testing and adding lime if necessary or controlling weeds.

Following is an outline of the steps for pasture renovation: 1.

FYI. We have several articles targeted to horse owners on our website under the “How To� category at the top of our home page. This is a link directly to the page. http://www.southernstates.com/articles/index.aspx

Up to a year prior to pasture renovation: a. Test the soil and add lime as recommended b. Begin an active weed control program to eliminate weeds prior to seeding 2. Prior to seeding, close graze or clip the pasture short. This allows the best opportunity for good seed to soil contact which is essential for the seed to germinate, and then to start growing with the minimum of competition from established plants.

3. Seed bed preparation: a. Minimum tillage: After close grazing or clipping, some minimum tillage may be done to increase exposed soil and reduce competition. After seeding, a cultipacker should be run over the soil to maximize seed to soil contact. b. No till drills may also be used to seed into an established closely clipped sod.

4. After seedlings have emerged, fertilizer may be provided to maximize the growth rate of the new seedlings. Timing is important as fertilizing too early will provide nutrients for the established plants to use which may lead to a growth spurt and excessive competition with the emerging seedlings.

5. Renovations may be done in the fall if soil moisture is adequate and in the spring provided the proper steps have been taken to prepare the pasture for over seeding. Legume seeds (primarily the clovers) may be frost seeded but this is a risky venture for the establishment of grass.

As the pasture establishes, make sure enough time has elapsed before grazing to ensure plants are well rooted.

For more information on pasture renovation, contact your local Southern States Agronomy Professional.

Page 8

Horse News Quarterly

Page 9

Horse News Quarterly

4-H News Report This Quarter submitted by Rose McDonald Golden Horseshoe 4-H Club Organizational Leader Our 4-H Year runs Oct. 1st to Sept. 30th st We just ended a very successful Horse Judging, Hippology and Horse Bowl year. Which runs from Nov. to March 31 .

Our juniors are the new Jr. State Horse Bowl Champs and Jr. Hippology Champs. One of our girls was Champion Individual overall. Our seniors are doing very well with a brand new team. Big thanks You to Coach Faye Strickler.

Our Junior Horse Judging teams did very well, placing as Team A as Champion Reason givers and Team B Reserve Champion reason givers. One of our girls placed individually first in reasons overall and one placing individually first in performance overall. Not to mention many top 10 placing. Our brand new senior team did very well also. Big Thank you to our Coach Hannah McDonald. Now they all get a well-deserved break as they end their knowledge season and gear up for showing season. Except Hannah McDonald is busy Judging with the Virginia Tech Horse Judging Team. They are leaving for Texas next week. We wish Hannah and the entire VT Team the Best of Luck!

Here is a hi-light of some of the upcoming events for Golden Horseshoe.  Golden Horseshoe will be hosting the Horsemanship Skills Testing April 12th at the Frederick County Fairgrounds 9am till 1:30pm  Golden Horseshoe will be hosting the Northern District Qualifying Horse Show OPEN TO ALL May 10th at the Frederick Co. Fairgrounds 9am start time. We are looking for sponsors for our classes. $20 per class to sponsor.  Golden Horseshoe will be organizing and running a concession stand Friday and sat. of Apple Blossom.  Golden Horseshoe is selling JO CORBI Pizza and etc.… at this time please contact Rose to order. horsemomrose@yahoo.com  Frederick County 4-H Horse Camp July 9th, 10th, 11th Hosted By Golden Horseshoe 4-H. Looking for fun clinicians.  Frederick County Fair Open Horse Show hosted by Golden Horseshoe 4-H July 26th start time 9am. We are looking for sponsors for classes, $20 a class to sponsor.  A few Golden Horseshoe members will be traveling to North Carolina in late July for Southern Regionals Championship Horse Show. We wish them Luck as they are the best of the best.  Golden Horseshoe 4-H will be hosting a Northern District Showmanship and Trail class clinic August 30th at the Frederick County Fairgrounds, by donation. Clinicians will be Faye Strickler and Hannah McDonald. Call Rose for details, 540-877-4935  Golden Horseshoe will be traveling to compete in the Va State 4-H Championship Show in Sept. at the VA Horse Center. We invite folks to come and cheer us on.  Rose McDonald the Leader of Golden Horseshoe 4-H Club is the Chairman for the Silent Auction (fundraiser for state 4-H Horse Show) she is looking for donations. Please contact her if you can help by soliciting or donating. This is the main fundraiser that keeps our state show alive and helps us afford to pay horse center. 540,877-4935, horsemomrose@yahoo.com  Golden Horseshoe is also busy volunteering this year with Gainesboro Fire/Rescue, Frederick County Fair, Ruitan, Skirmish and county, state and national events in 4-H and as we say anyone else that calls us. At the present time we are cleaning up and beautifying the 4-H Horse Arena at the fairgrounds.

Golden Horseshoe wished to thank all those that have supported and still are supporting their club. We owe our success to great Leaders, Coaches, Kids, Parents and Supporters.

Happy Trails, Golden Horseshoe 4-H

Page 10

Each year about this time as the weather turns warmer we all get to thinking about going on that first trail ride. Most everyone gets their horse ready to go, This month’s Tip - Keeping your trailer road ready. gathers their tack, hooks up to the trailer and discovers that something on the trailer needs repair. Most of the By “Frank” William F Artrip lll time it's something simple like a light out or a poor Owner of W.F. Artrip and Son Trailer Sales connection. between the truck and trailer plug. A simple 12 volt test light is a valuable tool when working on electrical truck or trailer wiring. Unplug the trailer and check to see if corrosion has built up on the prongs of either the truck or trailer plug. If this has happened you can use a very small wire brush to clean them. While the trailer is unplugged now is a good time to take either a small flat screwdriver or a knife and slightly bend the flat prongs in the trailer plug towards the center a little. This will help them make better contact when you plug the trailer back up to your truck. If it is just one or two lights out, more than likely the bulb has corroded over the winter and is not making good contact with the power source. Take the lens off and remove the bulb. If the end looks greenish or has corrosion built up on it you can simply rub the end back and forth a few times on your jeans and this will shine it back to as new again. Replace the bulb making sure the bulb has enough tension on it to maintain a good connection. A small dab of grease helps keep it from corroding again.

Turn on your trailer lights and see if that has corrected the problem. Sometimes it's a little more than just the bulb. Look on the inside of the trailer to make sure the wire has not come loose at the connection with the main wire. If this has happened then just splice it back together with either a wire connector or splice it by removing a little of the insulation on both loose ends of the wires and twist them together and cover with electrical tape. If that still has not corrected the problem then it may be the ground to the light itself. Most trailer lights are installed from the factory with aluminum pop rivets. These can also corrode or become loose. If that is the case then you will need to replace the rivet with a new one. Do not use a sheet metal screw to fix it because the sharp point will be inside of the trailer where your animal could come into contact with it. If that still has not fixed your problem then the power wire is broken someplace between the light and the plug.

Another problem that seems to come up quite often is that the trailer brakes are not working. This can be a simple fix or be much harder to figure out.

Again, a lot of the times it is a poor connection between the plug and the truck.

We have already discussed this earlier so we can move on to the next area to look. Your trailer brakes have two wires that stick out of the back of the brake plate on the end of your axles. One of the wires is the power supply and runs all the way to the trailer plug. The other wire is the ground and most companies will simply pop rivet it to the side of the frame. About 90% of all the brake problems I encounter on a customer’s trailer is either a broken or loose ground wire. Simple fix. With the trailer still hooked to the tow vehicle or if unhooked then make sure to block all tires, both front and back so the trailer cannot roll, jack up the axle and remove the tire. You now have access to the wires and frame to reconnect the broken or loose wire. This more than likely has fixed your problem. If they still don't work then check the fuse to the brake control in the vehicle. Again, a test light is a must have item. If everything seems to check out fine then you may have more complicated problems such as a bad brake control or problems inside the brakes themselves that may require a mechanic to find and fix or replace some parts.

Don't forget to check your 12 volt safety brake battery. Make sure it is fully charged. You will need some sort of battery tester to check the current level in the battery. While a problem here will not keep your brakes from working while driving it will not stop your trailer should it happen to come unhooked from your vehicle. It is also illegal to operate a trailer that has electric brakes without a proper working safety brake.

Now, we are all hooked up, trailer latched, electrical plugged in, safety chains hooked, 12 volt safety brake connected and we are ready to put our animals on and head down the road. Not so fast. Did you check the floor of your trailer? Are any of the boards rotted? Sure, they looked good when I lifted up the mat. You can not always tell by looking at the top of the boards. You need to get down and look up under the trailer at them. Take a screwdriver or knife and poke up into each board. If they are hard then you are good to go. If your screwdriver or knife punches into the board a ways then you have a board that is starting to rot. Rot is usually found at either the rear or along the sides of the trailer. That is where most of the moisture is able to come into contact with your boards. If any of them are rotted and it is a very small area you can put a piece of 1/2" plywood or another thin flat board over the rotted area and attach them with wood screws or short nails as a temporary fix until you can replace the board. This is a repair that needs to be done ASAP. The safety of our animals is the most important part of hauling them. A visual check of the rest of the floor is also important. Most trailers have wooden floors made of pine boards. Pine boards will always have some knots in them. Make sure that the knots have not come loose over time and dropped out. Also, check to make sure no boards are cracked or have pieces broken off of them. If they do then that is an area that can break and should be replaced. On trailers that have metal floors you need to look for signs of rust on steel or corrosion on aluminum trailers and repair as necessary.

Safety Tips from the Professionals

Keeping your trailer road ready. Is continued on page 11

Page 11

Keeping your trailer road ready continued.

Another important issue is the frame of the trailer. Most are built using angle iron and may or may not be painted from the factory. They will almost always have some rust on them. Unless the rust is sever there is really little to worry about. The trailer has to be pretty old for angle iron to rust through. That's not saying that rust is a good thing. It's not, but in all my years of selling and working on trailers I have only seen one trailer with an angle iron frame that was rusted to the point that it was an issue and that trailer was over 30 years old and used as a farm trailer most of it's life. Some companies choose to build their frames out of metal tubing. They can rust through much faster. They cannot paint inside of the tubing so it starts rusting from day one and when you see a big bubble of rust on the outside it is usually to late. It has already rusted completely through and needs to be repaired now! This is done by either plating and welding another piece of metal over the area or by cutting out the rusted area and replacing it with new metal that is welded in it's place. Other areas to look at are the seams of the metal on the sides of the trailer. While some rust may show and even have rusted through in a few spots these seldom pose a safety hazard. The one place that they can be a cause for concern is if your trailer has a drop ramp. Most of the time it will be at the bottom of the ramp and when the animal steps on it the weight could cause the metal to give way and let his foot go through. Not something you want to happen. Again, this is caused from moisture trapped between the metal and the wood on the ramp. If the mat on the ramp has come loose it is usually because the wood has rotted and then the metal rusts. All are items that need to be replaced or repaired. A little note here, just because your trailer is aluminum don't think it won't rust. It's called corrosion and will eat a hole through the metal just like rust does to steel. Takes a little longer but it will still happen. Aluminum trailers need to be high pressure acid washed a couple times a year to keep them looking new. You can have this done at most large truck stops. Aluminum trailer owners need to look for stress cracks also. These are mostly found around the rear upper and lower corners of the trailer and in the corners of the rear gate. The cracks must be repaired or they will continue to grow.

Now we come to the tires and wheels. Keep your trailer tires properly inflated to the tire manufactures suggested tire pressure. It will be stamped on the side of the tire. Doing so will prolong the tire life along with giving you better fuel mileage and they will hold the weight you are hauling much better. Make sure your wheels lug nuts are all tight. Any missing lug nuts or broken wheel studs need to be replaced. The bearings in your hubs need to be checked once a year for proper tightness and lubrication. It's not hard but can be a very messy job. Most people leave this part to a trailer repair shop. Look for any age cracks in your tires, both on the sidewalls and down between the treads. If your tires show heavy cracking then they need to be replaced.

Don't forget to have your trailer inspected. It's the law. It's needs to be done once a year just like your tow vehicle and can be done at most inspection stations. Nothing can ruin your day like being pulled over and issued a citation for a dead inspection.

The last thing on our list is mostly cosmetic. Your trailer can be a large investment and we want it to last as long as possible.

Ideally we would keep our trailers parked in a garage but few get such treatment so we need to protect them as best we can. That can involve a big job, washing and waxing something that may be a large as a semi. It's a big, time consuming job but the results have a big payoff. Not only will your trailer look better and last longer while you own it but can pay off when the time comes to sell it. NEVER, and I repeat, NEVER leave your trailer parked for long periods under a tree or next to the barn roof where the water will run off and land on your trailer. These are big NO NOs. There are companies that make trailer covers. They do work but you need to remove them a few times a year. Never use a tarp. This will trap moisture and cause the roof to rust faster than just leaving it parked outside. Keep the roof waxed and the paint will last a long time.

I think we have covered about everything and if these steps are followed we can look forward to a safe trip and a long life with our trailers.

Happy trailering!!!

Page 12

Your leather tack can last a long time if you take care of it properly.

As leather ages and is exposed to the elements, it loses the fats and oils used to saturate the hide during the tanning process. As leather dries

By Claudia Swisher out it will become brittle and it will crack and split. The secret is to replenish the essential oils that help keep leather soft and supple, while still allowing the hide to breathe. Also, keep the leather clean, so the dirt doesn’t erode the fibers and block the pores. Store your tack wisely, away from heat, humidity, sun.

Here are a few things you may need. Saddle rack for your saddle will keep it off the floor and keep it from rodents.

Bridle holders help keep your bridles form getting tangled up. I like to have 3-4 soft cotton cloths or 3-4 hand towels or Lint-free rags (T-shirt; sheet). Recycle everything! Keep some soft-bristle brush (natural is best). Tooth brushes are great and soft finger nail brushes as well for little places and deep grooved tooled saddle. A vacuum with brush attachment (optional) for cleaning fleece on western saddles is great. I use glycerin or pHbalanced saddle soap. It can come in brick or spray forms. I like natural sponges, but synthetic will work. Use a small bucket of water, warm. Hot for really old or heavy soiled and always dry the leather well, then make sure you oil well afterwards with a leather conditioner and / or pure neatsfoot oil.

1. Brush away surface dust. Brush away any surface dust or dirt with a soft cotton cloth or a fine-bristled brush, such as a natural fiber shoeshine brush. A vacuum with a brush attachment also works well, as long as the bristles aren’t so stiff that they’ll scratch the finish.

2. Prep the tack. Open any buckles for easier access to those hard-to-reach spots. Remove cinches and stirrups. When cleaning bridles, reins, tack or harness, remove bits, buckles, hardware, and any silver accessories before applying leather cleaners. If you can’t remove the hardware, carefully clean around it, so you don’t contaminate the leather with the silver polish or tarnish the hardware with leather cleaner. You can wrap the leather with a small cloth while you are polishing the silver or hardware.

3. Apply saddle soap. Follow the manufacturer’s directions precisely for the type of saddle soap or leather cleaner to use. Some recommend working the cleaner into a lather, while others do not. Some products need to be rinsed off with water or a damp cloth, while others do not. Note that many of the new pH-balanced and glycerin formulas clean and condition without darkening the leather or leaving a greasy residue, while producing a lustrous shine when buffed.

Do not use oils on suede or light oil as it can darken. There cleaners made just for those.

4. Work carefully. With a big project, such as a saddle, work on small sections at a time. Wipe or rinse away excess soap as you go. (Don’t get the leather too wet.)

Residue left in crevices and folds attracts dirt, which will eat away the leather. In tooled areas, use a soft-bristled brush to make sure no soap is left in crevices. Rinse often, and use a towel to wipe up any excess moisture.

5. Be thorough. Clean under all flaps and the bottom side of the stirrup leathers. These areas will more likely have the heaviest soil and sweat buildup.

6. Use Castile soap. For areas of a saddle with a heavy accumulation of waxy dirt and dander, use Castile soap. A little bit of sudsing is okay here.

7. Condition. Check the label; some manufacturers recommend conditioning leather while it’s still damp, while others suggests a drying period. If you’re concerned about whether a product will darken the finish, test a spot where it won’t be seen. Authentic neat’s-foot and other “oils” will almost always darken leather, while some top beeswax-fortified “fine leather” creams will not. Wipe away any excess conditioner or oil so they don’t stain your clothes or collect dirt.

8. Buff. When the conditioner has been absorbed, buff the leather with a lint-free rag. As you go, check for any residual soap or dirt, especially in those hard-to-see places.

Once it is completely dry and all the oils have soaked up then you can store it away. When storing tack you want a clean dry area. Heat is the worst thing for leather as it dries and can cause it to age prematurely. Dampness is also a big no-no as it will cause the number one enemy access to your leather which is mildew. How to prevent these two enemies from taking over will take some though on your part. First thing to think about when you are preparing a tack room is to not store it in a place where it is exposed to the elements. The best case is a mouse proof, dry room with ventilation. We all cannot have that luxury so we do the best we can do whit what we have. Try to have you saddles on a saddle rack of some type where it can sit in a correct position.

Never lay your stirrup leathers, girth or breast straps over the seat. They will dry in a bad position and cause damage to the seat as well. Always wipe off excess sweat and dirt before leaving your saddle to sit. You also need to have it in a place that will not get direct sunlight nor have water exposure. Hang your bridles and halter up off the floor on the wall or on a hanging tack hook. When things are left on the floor they tend to draw dampness and mice. With just a few little things you can change your tack room into a better cleaner place.

You will also need to have a place to hang your saddle pads up to dry. Do not place them on your saddle unless the saddle has a cover (towel or something) and if you have to due to space then always place your pad upside down so it can dry out before the next use and it will not then dampen your saddle seat.

Pads also need cleaning no matter what types they are. If possible have a type that can be hosed off often or placed in the washing machine for throughout cleaning. Check your pads for wearing regularly as you put them on your horse and when you take them off and place them upside down you can also look and see where there are wet places or dry places. This could mean they need replacing or to check your saddle for fit.

Bridles and halter need to be cleaned in the same way you did the saddle.

Hanging them up on shaped holders are the best as they do not wear them in just one little spot. When you clean you will also be finding wear and cracking areas. This plays a two part roll. If the piece has a damaged or cracked place on it, then it needs to be oiled to prevent more drying and cracking or if too bad it will need repaired. If the item breaks while you are riding it could cause some injury to the horse or to you.

With just a few things like this to think about you can extend the life of your tack.

Tack Care Tips