VOL. 6 NO. 1 • JANUARY 2020 • COZY FREE COPY
EATERIES THAT TAKE THE CHILL OFF P. 10
Bring your hot toddy A-game
CRAVEABLE CRUNCH P. 30
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10 Devour Dozen
Come in from the cold and bask in the warmth of these dining sanctuaries
Contents
BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF
Stoneground Kitchen
8 Bowl Town
Cozy soups and stews in Ogden that are worth the drive BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
28 The Spread
Emigration Brewing BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
30 It’s Crunch Time
Start the new year with heart-healthy fare from these inventive eateries BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
32 Zhuzh It Up
Bring your hot toddy A-game BY MIKA LEE AND CAIT LEE
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JOHN TAYLOR
34 Italian Chef’s Tasting
La Trattoria di Francesco BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
36 Things We Love
Global warmth (the good kind) BY AIMEE L. COOK
38 Spirit Guide
Curl up on a cold winter’s night with cocktails inspired by spirituous scripts BY DARBY DOYLE
42 Last Bite
In search of what buzzes on the tongue BY JOHN RASMUSON
Devour Utah • january 2020 5
Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Director of Operations PETE SALTAS Edi torial
Editor JERRE WROBLE Proofreaders LANCE GUDMUNDSEN, MEGAN WAGSTAFF Contributors AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, CLAIRE MCARTHUR, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, JOHN RASMUSON, MEGAN WAGSTAFF
When she’s not busy canning jam or perfecting her breakfast hash, you’ll find writer and SLCnative Megan Wagstaff on her snowboard. Living downtown, Megan says that her backyard is the size of a postage stamp. “Yet, it’s so easy to get to the mountains,” she says. “It’s the best of both worlds.”
Production
Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, CHELSEA NEIDER, JENIFER TERRY
Business /Office
Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at ABourbonGal.com.
Circulation
Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
Sales
Digital Operations Manager ANNA PAPADAKIS Senior Account Executives DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER Retail Account Executives KELLY BOYCE, MICHELLE ENGSTRAND
On the cover: Stoneground Kitchen bolognese over creste di gallo pasta
After starting out writing about beautiful homes and gardens in Utah, Aimee L. Cook now dabbles in subjects from food to human interest. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, she writes for several local publications.
Photo by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour Utah are available for $4.95 at the Copperfield Media offices located at 175 W. 200 South, Ste. 100, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-716-1777 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing
Copyright 2020 All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
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@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Rebecca Ory Hernandez began her life in south Louisiana surrounded by Cajun gardeners and cooks who instilled in her a love of preparing well-made food. Now a freelance writer, home cook and artist, Rebecca lives (and cooks) in Ogden.
From the Editor
Blankie Time
T
he genesis for this issue came from Megan Wagstaff, a Devour Utah writer who spoke of her appreciation for restaurants that offer blankets for patrons to snuggle up with as they glance over the menu. How cozy is that? The comfort quotient in dining out reaches new heights these days. It wasn’t that long ago that fine-dining establishments had dress codes and forced dinner jackets on those lacking such gentlemanly garb. It was a given that women wore dresses or skirts, hose and heels—with hair coiffed, lipstick carefully applied, hat just so—it was all part of the dining-out ritual. Now, some wear flannel pajamas out to a meal without so much as a raised eyebrow from fellow diners—since many are likewise wearing flannel. Of course, those “dressed for destress” folks might well be cruising a cereal bar or ordering a breakfast of French toast encrusted with Fruity Pebbles. Not only is dining-out attire more casual, so is the meal service at many hip chains these day, where it’s “fast-casual.” Gone, too, are the linen tablecloths. Too bad restaurants didn’t think to hold on to them and fold them up like blankets. Now, they have to shell out $90 for a plush Sferra Celine throw to hang on a chair for those with chilly shoulders. Alex Beggs, a digital editor for Bon Appetite, writes about “blankies” hanging on the backs of chairs in fine restaurants from Atlanta to San Francisco. The trend is leading diners, she says, “to a place so comfortable, so cozy, so thoughtful, you might never want to go home ...” Not only are the plush wraps offered to shivering guests seated under the air conditioning vent, but some eateries are selling the blankets to patrons after the meal. “’Take care of me, I surrender,’ we say to the blanket,” Beggs writes on BonAppetite.com, theorizing that hospitality is leaning in the direction of an almost mythical homelife, with “intimate, maternal associations.” In Salt Lake, I’ve yet to encounter indoor blanket service. Have you? I do love snuggling up on the patio of Silver Fork Lodge in Big Cottonwood Canyon, not only under a blanket but on top of a sheepskin chair cover. Log Haven in Millcreek Canyon also offers blankets and heaters on their patio. And if a hot chocolate aperitif were to come with the blanket, I’d pretty much be relieved of all my problems of the moment. I might just settle in for a long meal enjoyed with a couple of decadent cocktails and leave a massive tip because I felt so cared for. But back to our genesis story. Wagstaff’s blanket idea led to this Cozy issue you’re reading. As such, she pretty much had to write about her coziest eateries in the Devour Dozen. And for those who prefer a comfy night in, Darby Doyle listed some of her favorite “literary libations,” cocktails to be enjoyed with a cherished book. Beyond that, we have a bear’s lair full of ideas for maximizing the comfort quotient in your life. So, snuggle up and start reading. ❖ —Jerre Wroble Correction: Incorrect photos were used in the Plate It feature in our December 2019 issue. The burger photos (and burger types) published are not the same as those served by Just Burgers at the downtown Harmons. The correct images now appear online at DevourUtah.com. We apologize for our error.
C u a o n Taste Y e v o L
801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South | finecandies.com
New Expanded Hours Tues. - Sat. 8:00 am to 8:30 pm Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner To Go Orders (801) 906- 0369 Devour Utah • january 2020 7
Saagwala
WL
B
TOWN Cozy soups and stews in Ogden worth the drive
I
BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ PHOTOS BY STEVEN VARGO
t’s been more than a few years since the word hygge hopped across the Atlantic and into our lexicon. Hygge (pronounced “hoo-gah”) is a Danish and Norwegian word for a mood of coziness and comfortable conviviality. Especially in winter, humans seek a space that’s nice, snug, safe and known. We’re drawn to places where we can be comfy, whether at home or at dining spots that offer a warm and inviting vibe. So where to go to get that cozy feeling in January? Ogden, for one, has the hygge concept well in hand. These four eateries, located less than an hour north of Salt Lake City, serve up simple dishes that will warm you to your toes and keep you contented as you ring in the New Year. The “less is more” concept should not be confused with diminished flavor. So, bundle up, take a leisurely drive and check out these savory soups and stews.
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Sometimes, simple is best. Bombay Grill’s creamy spinach with warm spices of garlic, ginger, turmeric, paprika, coriander, fresh green onion, fresh tomatoes and cilantro simmering over chicken or shrimp is just the ticket on a cold winter’s night. For more than 12 years, Ogden locals have enjoyed the delicious chicken or shrimp saagwala, a signature dish of Jaspal Singh, who hails from Punjab, India. Don’t forget the freshbaked naan to soak up every last drop of sauce that his wife, Jagdish, creates. They offer upward of 10 different varieties of naan, all baked in a tandoori clay oven. Bonus feature: a very kid-friendly atmosphere. Bombay Grill 3035 Washington Blvd., Ogden 801-393-4828
Cozy Issue
Vegetable Beef Soup
When “what’s for dinner?” comes up again, the Old Grist Mill Bread Co. prepares dozens of wholesome soups weekly, along with fresh-baked breads and cookies, where wheat is ground daily on premises. So popular it’s a daily special, the beef and vegetable soup comes by the cup, bowl or quart, brimming with old-fashioned goodness, chock full of carrots, potatoes, peas and delicious beef broth. Just what you remember as a child on a cold winter’s night. Grab a piece of cornbread if it’s available. Feel free to bring the entire family for this very informal dining experience. Old Grist Mill 460 Second St., Ogden 801-392-8801 OldGristMillBreadCompany.com
Sukiyaki
Casual Japanese local-fixture on Riverdale Road, Windy’s Sukiyaki is known for a variety of traditional, cooked-with-care homemade gyoza, donburi, ramen and udon, not to mention wonderfully prepared sushi. In winter, try the sukiyaki in one of their tea rooms. After all, it’s the restaurant’s namesake, and for good reason. Served in a hot iron skillet, this comforting, semi-sweet broth topped with enoki mushroom, fresh vegetables, Napa cabbage, beef, onions and noodles is sure to warm your bones. Cooked with care, this meal in a hot pot comes with rice. Windy’s Sukiyaki 3809 Riverdale Road, Ogden 801-621-4505 WindysSukiyaki.com
Tom Yum Soup
The most warming soup that “Pat” offers at Bangkok Garden has to be the tom yum soup. Tom, meaning “spicy” in Thai and yum, meaning “sour,” best describes the dish. The broth—made with lemon grass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, tomato and yellow and green onions—gets accents from chili pepper and secret spices. Shrimp, seafood or vegetarian versions are all available at this award-wining eatery. Add rice noodles or rice, and all we can say is “Yum!” Bangkok Garden 2426 Grant Ave., Ogden 801-621-4049 BkGarden.com
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Cozy Issue
Come in from the cold and feel the warmth of these dining sanctuaries BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF
W
ith the holidays over and family no longer occupying your guest bedroom, it’s hard not to feel the let down as you recall days that felt cheerier, brighter and somehow warmer despite the snow and ice. Reclaim that cozy ambiance with these 12 restaurants that invite you to linger over a comforting bite.
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HSL’s dazzling counter
HSL’s hues of green are meant to invoke a feeling of refuge
Seeded cracker
Thanks to the design expertise of Melissa Gray and Cody Derrick (cityhomeCOLLECTIVE), walking through the front door of HSL feels as though you’ve just arrived in tropical Havana in its prime. With lush flora, green velvet chairs and Hemingway-worthy wicker lamps, you’ll wish you’d worn espadrilles instead of snow boots. Chefs Briar Handley and Matt Nelson’s menu rotates seasonally, but you can’t go wrong starting with the seeded cracker served with Grandma Britton’s peppered jelly ($6), a family recipe and HSL staple. HSL 418 E. 200 South, SLC 801-539-9999 HSLRestaurant.com PHOTOS COURTESY CITYHOME COLLECTIVE
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If ducking in from the cold and down into the hidden basement where this speakeasy is located doesn’t chase away the winter chill, we’re not sure what will. Cozy up in a dimly lit booth and get ready to stay awhile—the succulent beer can chicken ($35) takes up to an hour to prepare, but it’s plenty for two and worth the wait. Pass the time in true speakeasy fashion with a few craft cocktails made with local Honest John’s Bitters. Reservations strongly recommended. The Rest 331 S. Main, SLC 801-532-4452 Bodega331.com
The Rest keeps things low key with craft cocktails, oldtime collectibles and a hunting lodge vibe
PHOTOS BY DEREK CARLISLE
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Cozy Issue
Family-style dining at Communal
Communal’s pork loin with parsnip puree, pear compote and fried sage
PHOTOS BY DEREK CARLISLE
Recapture the warm vibes of a bustling kitchen at Provo’s Communal, where you can cozy up shoulder to shoulder at the communal dining table or sit at the counter and watch your Clifford Farm’s pork loin cook in the open kitchen. With parsnip puree, pear compote and fried sage, it’s the post-holiday dish you didn’t know you needed. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, there’s never a bad time to get out of the cold and enjoy a little comfort food at Communal. Communal 102 N. University Ave., Provo 801-373-8000 CommunalRestaurant.com Devour Utah • january 2020 13
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Cozy Issue
AUSTEN DIAMOND
Ogden’s Hearth on 25th is an ‘Appy Hour’ favorite
Hearth on 25th’s ‘hearth of gold’
COURTESY PHOTO
COURTESY PHOTO
Yak meatballs
Truffle fries
COURTESY PHOTO
Curious how to pronounce “hygge”? Skip it and say Hearth on 25th instead. Part restaurant, part pantry, this Ogden establishment on historic 25th Street is an ideal destination after a few powder turns at Snowbasin. Its “Appy Hour” Monday through Saturday, 3–6 p.m., is the place to enjoy half-off select appetizers such as yak meatballs ($10) and truffle fries ($5), plus $5 glasses of wine on Wednesdays. Relax on a Chesterfield sofa near the bar, or score a table by the window for snow-capped mountain views. Hearth on 25th 195 25th St., Ogden 801-399-0088 Hearth25.com Devour Utah • january 2020 15
Cozy Issue
You don’t need luck to score one of Nuch’s few tables ... just a reservation. This pint-sized pizzeria is absolute perfection when the temps are frigid. Order the New Haven pizza ($16.95). Its Yukon gold and roasted garlic mashed potatoes, bacon, asparagus and mozzarella make for a pie that sticks to the ribs and warms the soul. Be sure to save room for dessert; the ricotta cheesecake ($5.95) is reason enough to put your New Year’s resolution on the back burner.
Nuch’s New Haven pizza with mashed potatoes, bacon and aspargus
Nuch’s 2819 S. 2300 East, Millcreek 801-484-0448 Nuchs-Pizzeria-And-Restaurant.com
Don’t miss out on Nuch’s specialty calzones
Owner/head chef Rose Witesman
PHOTOS BY DEREK CARLISLE
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COURTESY PHOTO
Le Nonne’s warm and inviting interior and homestyle Italian food are well worth a trek to Logan
Le Nonne offers Northern Italian cuisine and live jazz on Fridays
COURTESY PHOTO
If you’ve spent time in Cache Valley during the winter, you’re familiar with the special kind of cold that settles in between Wellsville and the sled hill on Old Main. But nestled in a restored Victorian home near the historic Logan Tabernacle, you’ll find a Tuscan restaurant by the name of Le Nonne inviting you to remove your coat and warm up with chef Pier Antonio Micheli’s homemade ravioli de granchio ($18), a fresh pasta hand-stuffed with Alaskan king crab, ricotta and cream sauce. The only thing better is enjoying it on a Friday when Le Nonne features live jazz.
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Le Nonne 129 N. 100 East, Logan 435-752-9577 LeNonne.com
Cozy Issue
No matter the season, there’s never a bad time to bite into pillowy soft gyoza. But at Koyo, they serve up gyoza pot stickers with a spicy dipping sauce (from $7) that is especially adept at chasing away the chill of winter. Along with traditional Japanese teriyakis, Koyo also serves sushi in its tatami rooms where you can take off your winter boots and sit around low tables with warm Japanese lanterns glowing overhead. Prefer a shoes-on dining experience? There are plenty of regular tables partially enclosed with shōji— paper screens—for an intimate dinner. Koyo 2275 E. 3300 South, SLC 801-466-7111 KoyoSLC.com
Koyo’s gyoza with spicy dipping sauce
Koyo’s tatami rooms provide an intimate vibe to any meal
Regular table seating is also available at Koyo for those reluctant to go shoeless
PHOTOS BY DEREK CARLISLE
Devour Utah • january 2020 19
Cozy Issue
On a snowy evening, a short drive up Millcreek Canyon to Log Haven gives us all sorts of over-the-river-and-through-the-woods vibes, and with a low cal/high impact nightly special (MP) from chef Dave Jones—ideal for those of us with resolutions to lose a few pounds—there’s more room to splurge on calories from their impressive wine list, which has won multiple awards from Wine Spectator. Reserve a table by the fireplace and pay the babysitter extra— you’ll want to stay awhile. Log Haven 6451 E. Millcreek Canyon, SLC 801-272-8255 Log-Haven.com
Log Haven is the definition of cozy
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A path to enchantment
Romantic meals begin and end at Log Haven
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NIKI CHAN
JOHN TAYLOR
Chef Dave Jones is always cooking up surprises
Contemporary Japanese Dining
LUNCH • DINNER • COCKTAILS
18 MARKET STREET • 801.519.9595
JOIN US FOR APRÉS SKI Located at the mouth of Big & Little Cottonwood Canyons
3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 2015 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com Best
of Utah
Devour Utah • january 2020 21
Cozy Issue
Painted Pony’s baconwrapped duck
Desert dining at Painted Pony in St. George
COURTESY PHOTOS
St. George tends to be the warmest city in the state, but it still sees its fair share of southern snowstorms. This is the time to saddle up to The Painted Pony with its sandstone and terracotta decor for an ambiance that nods to warm desert days. The bacon wrapped duck ($29) is a local favorite, but if you’re there for lunch you’ll want to try the torta abogada ($9), a south-of-the-border take on the classic French dip with spicy guajillo chile dipping sauce. The Painted Pony 2 W. St. George Blvd., St. George 435-634-1700 Painted-Pony.com
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t a e t o e v l Reso ! os c a t e r o m Let Us Cater Your Holiday Party!
SOUP SEASON IS HERE
Warm up with our Bonsai butternut squash soup
Pickup • Delivered • Staffed Event UNIVERSITY 1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE 385-259-0712
HOLLADAY 4670 HOLLADAY PLAZA 801-676-9706
DOWNTOWN 149 EAST 200 SOUTH 385-259-0940
FASHION PLACE MALL 6154 FASHION BLVD #2 801-266-2487
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK | TAQUERIA27.COM
LEHI 1688 W. TRAVERSE PKWY 801-331-8033
801-713-9423 | 5692 S. 900 E. Murray
www.japanesegrill.com
@yoshisensogrill
Devour Utah • january 2020 23
A N F O O D H E AV E N G E RaM n Delicatessen & Restauran Germ
20 W. 200 S. • (801) 355-3891 • Catering available Open Mon-Wed: 9am-6pm Thu-Sat: 9am-9pm siegfriedsdelicatessen.com
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t
Cozy Issue
Stoneground Kitchen
Piping hot pizza from the Stoneground oven
Stoneground’s pasta is made fresh in-house
Chef Shifflett’s bolognese PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
Haven’t been to Stoneground since the early aughts? Then you might not know how far it has come in Salt Lake’s rapidly growing Italian dining scene. Its pool tables replaced by a gorgeous enclosed glass fireplace, its college vibe decidedly more fine dining, Stoneground is a haven in the winter, rising above the muddy slush on 400 South and offering a unique perspective of Library Square. It’s a gathering spot where you can thaw out with chef Justin Shifflett’s rich, comforting bowl of homestyle bolognese topped with San Marzano tomatoes, house ricotta and basil ($20). Stoneground Kitchen 249 E. 400 South, SLC 801-364-1368 StonegroundItalian.com Devour Utah • january 2020 25
In the January tradition of “Auld Lang Syne,” consider taking “a cup o’ kindness yet” with an old acquaintance at Pallet. Make a res-y so you’re sure to score a candle-lit corner table, then choose from their artfully selected wine list or ask the bartender to make you one of many rotating craft cocktails. Either go well with the full board ($31), a spread of cheese and charcuterie that begs to be paired with long conversations, close friends and warm memories.
Eclectic design sets the mood
DEREK CARLISLE
Always start with a thirst-quenching cocktail
DEREK CARLISLE
Pallet 237 S. 400 West, SLC 801-935-4431 EatPallet.com
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COURTSY PHOTO
Pallet soothing interior is a blelnd of modern and nostalgic
COURTSY PHOTO
Pallet’s Full Board spread of cheese and charcuterie
Cozy Issue
For more than 20 years, Spencer’s dark woods and Tiffany-style ceiling lights beckon locals and travelers alike
Just the place for cocktails and appetizers
COURTESY PHOTOS
Aged, hand-cut and seared to perfection, Spencer’s steaks are all prime cuts
Splurging at a steakhouse when the whole family is in town for the holidays can be overwhelming. But treating yourself to a decadent lunch date in between returning gifts at City Creek? Yes, please. Spencer’s steak frites ($38) indulges your taste buds with 8-ounce Wagyu bavette, Idaho potato crisps and Spencer’s classic green peppercorn cognac sauce, among cozy craftsman-style decor like coffered ceilings and rich, leather banquettes. Spencer’s for Steaks and Chops 225 S. West Temple, SLC 801-238-4748
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Emigration Brewing
the
Spread Emigration Brewing
J
ust a few miles up the mouth of Emigration Canyon sits a new restaurant, coffee shop, quaint market and soon-to-be brewery and event space. Emigration Brewing is the embodiment of hygge—from the cozy cream, marble and wood interiors and sculptural tumbleweeds hanging from the ceiling, to the creek running alongside the deck and warmth exuding from two copper wood-fired ovens. In the dimly lit dining room, chef Evan Francois serves thoughtfully prepared small plates, salads, pizzas and a burger prepared in sight of the diners from his small open kitchen. But you won’t see a stovetop or traditional oven—all of the dishes are prepared in the wood-fired ovens. The plant-forward starters—dressed-
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STORY AND PHOTOS BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
up Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and herb potatoes, to name a few—get the high-heat treatment in the ovens, too. “All of the smoke is going directly up and out of the oven, so you’re not really getting flavor from smoke,” Francois says. “It’s all about the high heat and getting all those really nice caramelized flavors in there.” The carrot small plate, for instance, is roasted in the oven until al dente, then topped with a bright acidic chimichurri, charred peanut sauce (inspired by Francois’ year in Mexico) and puffed sorghum—a cereal grain that, when popped, resembles tiny popcorn— for texture. Even the lone burger on the menu finds its way into the fiery oven, which can reach temperatures of 800 degrees.
Fresh pretzels and pretzel buns are made in-house daily and are the ideal vehicle for the medium-rare patty of brisket and chuck. Dressed with melted aged cheddar from Heber Valley Artisan Cheese, arugula, pickled onions, housemade pickles and an aioli-meets-Utah-fry-sauce, it’s a blissful combination of flavors. To truly have the Emigration Brewing experience, you can’t pass up the pizza, especially the restaurant’s namesake pie topped with a mix of cremini and portobello mushrooms, fontina, tarragon and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. While the restaurant is still working to get its brewing operation in place, RoHa Brewing Project crafted a crisp, citrusy Emigration Pale Ale for the eatery. The drinks menu
Cozy Issue
Down the hall from the eatery, Henry’s Market sells artisanal products and growlers of kombucha and local beer
A soft, spongy pretzel bun adds flavor to a patty of brisket and chuck
also features a selection of beers from local breweries like 2Row and Level Crossing, as well as wines from Park City’s Old Town Cellars and craft cocktails such as the Pioneer Gulch Apple Cider Gin. Emigration also has a coffee shop that, in addition to serving up coffee and tea, offers a selection of housemade pastries. Just down the hall at Henry’s Market, patrons can purchase growlers of Salt Lake-made Han’s Kombucha, a selection of local beer and other artisanal products. ❖ Emigration Brewing 4170 Emigration Canyon Road, SLC 385-800-1098 EmigrationBrewing.com
Not just beer: Emigration Brewery also has an inhouse coffee shop Devour Utah • january 2020 29
The Green Scene
It’s Crunch Time
Start the new year with heart-healthy fare from these inventive eateries BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
A
fter decades of being equated to rabbit food and the cuisine of “hippies,” health food has at last gone mainstream. In today’s food world, you don’t have to search out a specialty grocer to buy sugar-free granola or barley in bulk, and the phrase “kale yeah!” can be found everywhere from T-shirts to totes. More and more plant-forward eateries are cropping up with a focus on nutritious meals not flavored with copious amounts of butter. (Writer’s note: Butter is a beautiful thing but, you know, everything in moderation.) Without compromising taste, a trio of Salt Lake establishments is cranking out delicious, nutritious food using techniques and ingredients that just might inspire and transform your own cooking at home.
BYOB
In a post-goop society, BYOB no longer solely means to come bearing booze. At Pulp Lifestyle Kitchen (multiple locations, PulpLifestyleKitchen. com), it most certainly is all about Building Your Own Bowl (or wrap, or salad—for that matter). Over a decade ago, Pulp founder Thomas Kreitlow was 70 pounds heavier and not exercising or paying attention to what he was eating. “Over the course of a year, I started eating healthy, cooking my own food and working out, and I lost the weight,” says Kreitlow. “I realized there really was something to this idea that
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what you put in your body is the driver for your wellness—not only your physical health but your emotional health. That’s how Pulp started.” In 2013, Pulp opened as a small juice and smoothie bar in the gym at City Creek. Today, there are three Pulp Lifestyle Kitchens (downtown, Liberty Park and in Sandy) plus a smaller Pulp Express in Park City. Kreitlow, with a background as a chef and economist, says all their bowls are healthy, but each has a different flavor profile, base and protein. “So, we create the framework for the customer, but the customer has some input on what they choose to create,” he says. “We wanted to make the menu interactive.” Choose proteins such as sesame-seared ahi tuna, wild salmon, orange ginger cod or tofu and organic chicken breast to go in bowls, and consider healthy swaps like cashew cream instead of dairy, brown rice and quinoa. Then add flavorful sauces—sweet chili ginger sauce, honey jalapeno glaze and chili-lime dressing, to name a few—to bring it to life.
Layer, Flavors and Textures
The Rose Establishment (235 S. 400 West, SLC, 801-208-5569, TheRoseEstb.com), a brunch and lunch coffee shop in a beautifully restored former meatpacking factory produces plant-forward food with an eye for aesthetics and a knack for combining unusual but
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The Weekender at The Rose Establishment
COURTESY PHOTO
Pulp Kitchen’s Mao-Se Pad
complementary ingredients. While some might think that healthy dishes tend to be bland and flavorless, chef Chandler Bailey would beg to differ. “I like bold, flavorful food with a lot of color and depth to it,” he says, noting he cooks mostly with vegetables. Bailey adds texture and flavor to dishes with toppings like charred leeks, fermentedblackberry pickled eggs and pomegranate arils, which you will find on The Weekender, a loaded five-seed toast with a base of “parsnip butter” made with pureed parsnips and another ingredient that can be found throughout The Rose menu: cocktail bitters. From the well-known Peychaud’s bitters to the Salt Lake City-made bay leaf bitters from Crybaby Bitters, the secret ingredient imparts a serious flavor punch to dishes. Cody Kirkland, former manager at The Rose and now proprietor of Crybaby Bitters, is to thank for taking the concentrated flavor from the cocktail glass to the plate. Every dish at The Rose marries healthy ingredients with a touch of indulgence. Avocado toast gets an upgrade with roasted radicchio, black truffle potato chips, grated pecorino, pea shoots and fleur de sel. Gluten-free pastries are topped with edible flowers. “Don’t be afraid to play around with a lot of ingredients and layer flavors,” says Bailey. “But I always make sure it’s never too savory, never too sweet, never too acidic. It needs to be balanced.”
Real Food
With a combined 40 years in the restaurant industry, owners and partners Wendy Phelps and Bill Peterson opened Roots Café (3474 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-277-6499, RootsCafeSLC.com/ ), a small coffee shop and cafe with the mission to provide patrons with their version of healthy eating: real whole foods, humanely raised meat and vegetarian spins on classic dishes. “We started with a one-page menu, and over the years, it has grown to six,” Phelps says. With Peterson in the kitchen, the two developed a menu that balances meat entrees with veggie options. “One of the things I didn’t like about going out to eat as a vegetarian is your options were a veggie burger—boring!—or a salad. Pretty basic food you can make at home,” Phelps says. “We wanted to create some things that vegetarians don’t ever get to see, like chili verde, which usually has pork.” While the menu has classic dishes like shepherd’s pie, organic chicken piccata and a grass-fed beef sandwich with au jus, you will find the same dishes reimagined for vegetarians with portobello mushrooms, squash and more. “We wanted to open a restaurant that isn’t straight veggie or necessarily all healthy, but you’re eating real food, often from farms nearby,” Phelps says. “We want people to know where their food is coming from.” So, if you’re going to eat fatty foods, she says, know that the meats and cheeses they use are well-sourced and less processed. Plus, she says, all their foods are cooked in either organic extra virgin olive oil or clarified butter made in-house. ❖
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Roots Café chicken piccata
Devour Utah • january 2020 31
W
inter now has us in its icy grip, and there’s only one thing to do: Seek refuge in a warm mug of liquid refreshment. But what should that beverage be? Coffee or tea? Monotonous. Hot buttered rum? Predictable. Familiar libations with a little flair? Now, you’re talking! As Queer Eyes’ fashion ace Carson Kressley (along with those in the current reboot) have famously said: “Sometimes, you need to zhuzh it up a little.” Follow these recipes, and you’ll be the star of the next sledding party or gathering of friends around the fire pit to watch the stars shimmer in the frigid night sky.
Bring your hot toddy A-game STORY AND PHOTOS BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE
Peppermint Irish cream mocha Rejuvenate your Joe! The silky, smooth mocha here is balanced with a rich velvety homemade creamer that offers a little Irish “sparkle.” The divine bitterness of roasted coffee is enhanced by a tingly accent of peppermint. Makes 4 servings. Ingredients 32 ounces (4 cups) brewed coffee 4 teaspoons light brown sugar 6 ounces peppermint schnapps 5 ounces Irish whiskey 4 ounces sweetened condensed milk 2 ounces heavy cream 1 tablespoon chocolate chips, melted ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon almond extract Whipped cream (optional) Cocoa powder (optional)
GET YOUR SPARKLE ON
The Process Melt light brown sugar into hot brewed coffee. To make the Irish Cream Whiskey: In a blender, combine Irish whiskey, heavy cream, condensed milk, melted chocolate, vanilla extract and almond extract until frothy, approximately 20 seconds. Easy alternative: skip this step and use premade Irish Cream Whiskey, approximately 12 ounces Stir Irish Cream Whiskey and peppermint schnapps into coffee. Dress with whipped cream and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. Relax.
32 Devour Utah • january 2020
Cozy Issue
TEA FOR TWO Sparkling pomegranate: Earl Grey tea cocktail
Say goodbye to the humdrum cranberry vodka of yesteryear. Here comes this seductive, ambrosial cocktail. A pucker of pomegranate and cherry juices are ideal substitutes for cranberry. The spruce of this fruity, fizzy elixir is Lady Earl Grey tea, a tea typically served piping hot, now chilled and shaken, leaving lingering floral notes and a bergamot citrus finish. Recipe courtesy of Honey Teahive Co. Makes 4 servings. Ingredients 8 ounces vodka 8 ounces pomegranate juice, unsweetened 8 ounces cherry juice, unsweetened ¼ cup water ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 tea bag Lady Grey (or Earl Grey) tea Chilled Prosecco 1 wedge lemon for rim (optional) Brown sugar for rim (optional) Ice Process Bring water and sugar to a boil, remove from heat. Steep Lady Grey tea bag for 4 minutes; remove tea bag and let syrup cool. Prepare cocktail glasses by swiping rim of each glass with lemon and pressing into brown sugar. In a shaker full of ice, combine vodka, pomegranate juice, cherry juice and Lady Grey tea syrup. Shake well and strain into cup until ⅔ full. Top with chilled Prosecco and enjoy!
SPICE IS NICE Hot Spiced Wine
The sangria of wintertime is here! In this recipe, we’ve upgraded mulled wine to first class. A twist from traditional, these robust flavors keep the senses guessing. Exotic spices harmoniously blend, with no single flavor overpowering the other. The takeaway is a spicy, peppery sensation. Shiraz is the perfect base-wine, warming the palate with ripe fruits, smoky notes, berries and full-bodied tannins. Makes 4 servings. Ingredients 1 bottle Shiraz 16 ounces (2 cups) apple cider 4 ounces (½ cup) brandy 2 tablespoon honey 6 whole cloves 6 black peppercorns 3 cardamom pods 3 slices of ginger, size of a quarter 2 cinnamon sticks and 2 orange slices for garnish Process Combine wine, cider, brandy, honey and orange slices in a pot. In a cheesecloth, tie cinnamon sticks, cloves, peppercorns, cardamom and ginger with cooking twine into a sachet. Alternative option: remove spices with a slotted spoon after simmering. Simmer for 8 minutes, covered, on medium-low heat until warm (but do not boil). Remove spices and ladle wine into glass. Garnish with a cinnamon stick and an orange slice. Cheers! ❖ How did we do? Give us feedback on @crazyfullasians! Devour Utah • january 2020 33
Some Standouts Antipasti: Octopus alle fave
Starting with possibly the tenderest octopus you’ll ever taste, lightly breaded and slowly baked for several hours, served over a bed of pureed fava beans and drizzled with basil oil, nothing could be as inviting as a first course. The softness gives way to a buttery, light, sweet flavor and a texture more typically found in shrimp.
Chef’s Tasting AT LA Trattoria di Francesco BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ PHOTOS BY DEREK CARLISLE
I
n early January, the Mirenda family from Palermo, Italy, expects to launch their newest and most authentic Sicilian gastronomic adventure. “This is 100% Italian culture in both cuisine and experience,” says Giuseppe Mirenda, co-owner of the Sicilia Mia restaurants, and son of patriarch, Francesco, the namesake of a new eatery at 15th and 15th. What began in 2015 as a dream has blossomed into a flourishing food and cultural entertainment business. Sharing their passion for good food and good living has resulted in more family members moving to Utah to help run the six restaurants. A local partner intimately involved in the expansion is Frank Granato, son of the late Sam Granato, and whose family has operated Granato’s Importing for seven decades. “We pride ourselves in making dishes that Nonna (Grandmother) would be proud to call her own,” Giuseppe says, something you want to hear an Italian chef say. The recipes they use have been passed down from past generations in Palermo, so prepare to be delighted. You may frequently hear shouts of “Bella, Bella!” coming from the kitchen, which adds to the authentic charm. And no wonder, the food indeed is absolutely gorgeous. The Mirendas’ Sicilian heritage will make its way into each dish served at what will be an intimate chef’s table at La Trattoria di Francesco located at the former Paris restaurant location in east Sugar House. Prepare to spend a leisurely amount of time—two hours is average for a true Italian dinner of this kind—at small table groupings of 8 to 25. Enjoy time spent visiting with friends and family, punctuated by the occasional food floor show as each new course is served. Patrons will enjoy a view of the kitchen to watch meats and fish being prepared. Regional Italian wines will be offered to pair specifically with each course. What follows is a sampling of dishes you can look forward to at a future La Trattoria di Francesco chef’s table.
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Al dente tagliatelle al vino rosso and tartufo
Shall I compare thee to a homemade pasta dish? Chef Franco’s pasta is made from scratch daily, usually in the wee hours of the morning, and is a delightful surprise of simplicity twirled atop an artful splatter of red wine and beet reduction, which balances the richness of the cheese, truffle and cream.
Flamed tomahawk al basilico
Tomahawk steak, oven roasted in an herb crust, finished by torching (this family loves fire) in front of diners is quite the showstopper befitting a beautiful cut of beef rib-eye steak requiring nothing fancy on the plate— the hint of char will appeal to all the carnivores in your family.
Finish
“Il dolce, the best part of the dinner.” —pastry chef Davide Biondo
Diners have a choice of homemade desserts, made fresh daily. The buccelati (Sicilian cookies filled with fig) features all the delights of a typical Italian cookie with a crispy bite and a chewy interior. Also consider the classic Italian fruit tart, with fresh fruit and pastry cream in a homemade butter shell. Another strong finish is the strawberry mousse with Chantilly cream and shortbread. Pair it with a fine cup of espresso to top off a true Sicilian meal. The reason they created Trattoria di Francesco? “It’s all because of you,” Giuseppe says humbly, referring to Sicilia Mia’s enthusiastic fans who can’t seem to get enough of their food. All we can say is “Grazie!” ❖ La Trattoria di Francesco 1500 S. 1500 East, SLC SiciliaMiaUtah.com Scheduled to open Jan. 8
Cozy Issue
Tender octopus over pureed fava beans
Tomahawk steak with basil
Housemade pasta in a truffle cream sauce
Italian fruit tart
Devour Utah • january 2020 35
(THE GOOD KIND)
4
THINGS WE
LOVE h t m r a W Global ( the good kind)
BY AIMEE L. COOK
1
2
3 1
Salsa Queen Salsa
Add a bit of spice to your life with Salsa Queen salsas. Founder Maharba Zapata Garcia was a single mom looking for a way to provide for her seven children. Today, her salsas are shipped throughout the country. Turn up the heat on your favorite taco with the original red chili or pour that bowl of tortilla chips as a delivery vessel for the queso dip. For game days or Netflix binging, make the Queen’s ‘Wow-camole’ by adding both the gourmet pico and the creamy jalapeno with a pinch of salt to two mashed avocadoes. $5.99/each Various Harmons/Smith’s grocery stores
36 Devour Utah • january 2020
2 Gunpowder Green Tea
Snuggle up with a cup of gunpowder green tea. Not only will it warm you from the inside, but it has medicinal qualities, too. Loose Gunpowder green tea resembles pellets and is higher in caffeine than regular green teas. Preparing your tea in a traditional cast-iron kettle ($29.99) enhances the medicinal qualities. Iron from the kettle can be absorbed by the tea and provide yet another benefit. Green tea could just be the cure to what ails you this winter season. $5.99/pound Southeast Market 422 E. 900 South, SLC 801-363-5474 SoutheastMarket.com
Curry Soup Base 3 What could be cozier
than a warm bowl of curry soup? The Daisho Japanese Curry flavor soup base awaits your favorite ingredients. Pick a protein, or leave it out for vegetarians, then add your goto veggies and even some udon noodles. The premade soup base has 15 different spices along with the savory flavors of sesame paste and dried bonito. Get your soup on! $4.79/each Japanese Sage Market 1515 S. Main, SLC 801-484-4122
Tadka 4 Dal Move over soup base, there’s an
even easier way to get your comfort food fix in a bowl. Ashoka brands has created a line of ready-to-eat Indian dishes in varieties that are sure to please both your belly and your mind. As simple as boiling the ready-made pouch unopened on the stovetop or placing the contents in a microwave safe bowl and heating for two minutes, the traditional lentil dish is full of those Indian spices you crave and pairs fabulously with a piece of naan. $3.99/each ❖ Qaderi Sweetz N Spicez 1785 S. State, SLC 801-484-0265 QaderiSweetzAndSpicez.com
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Devour Utah • january 2020 37
Spirit Guide
H.W. LONGFELLOW
Literary Libations Curl up on a winter’s night with cocktails inspired by spirituous scripts BY DARBY DOYLE
M
y ideal way to spend a long winter’s night surely includes snuggling up with both a serious cocktail and a not-soserious book. In every genre from philosophy to poetry, lauded classics to campy steampunk, it’s a proven trope that spirituous liquors will surface as either the inspiration for or as the bane of many a writer’s existence. I know I’ve relished quite a few “finally hit the ‘send’ button” tots of whiskey following particularly angsty bouts of figurative (OK, and sometimes literal) writers’ tears. This edition of Devour Utah’s Spirit Guide takes us on a journey of some of our favorite locally produced libations and drinks inspired by literary legends.
38 Devour Utah • january 2020
Aleister Crowley
The Writer: Aleister Crowley The Essay: “Absinthe, The Green Goddess” (1918) The Drink: Iced Absinthe I deferred to one of the smartest and most well-read distillers I know (and that’s saying something—they’re fundamentally a fabulously literary fellowship) to follow the twisty history of absinthe-inspired writers. Ethan Miller, lead distiller at Holystone Distillery and rare spirits resuscitator of the first degree, recently developed a wormwood and fennel forward resurrection of that illustrious pale green spirit, absinthe. Made most famous by its very high ABV and supposed hallucinatory character (the former correct, the latter mythological), absinthe was freely imbibed by Impressionist artists and illustrious literati during the turn of the 20th century. Considered one of the most scandalous men of his time, writer, occultist and raconteur Aleister Crowley wrote a lyrical ode to The Green Fairy, aka absinthe, in 1918. Apocryphally, he penned this essay at the Old Absinthe House in New Orleans while waiting for a (ahem) lady companion and sipping copious amounts of smuggled potent Swiss absinthe. Miller’s favorite passage from Crowley’s essay reads, “But I can taste souls without the aid of absinthe; and besides, this is the magic of absinthe! The spirit of the house has entered into it; it is an elixir, the masterpiece of an old alchemist, no common wine.” Recipe: In the spirit of Crowley himself, Miller and I prepared our absinthe in the traditional fashion. We perched a slotted absinthe spoon topped with a raw sugar cube over an absinthefilled cordial glasses and dripped in ice-cold water until the absinthe reached the desired sweetness and dilution suited to our individual palates.
The Writer: David Sedaris The Book: Naked (1997) The Drink: Serve-Yourself Bar True story: I’ve snort-laughed innumerable sips while reading David Sedaris and learned the hard way to make sure my hot toddy has cooled a bit if I’m planning to sit down with a Sedaris tome. His collections of memoir-ish short stories like “Holidays on Ice” (the Christmas elves!) are tales of hyperbolic hilarity many of us may relate to in the dénouement following a hectic holiday season. One of my favorite Sedaris encounters happened when I didn’t actually get to meet him in person: I very flakily bailed on going to a Phoenix, Ariz., book signing for his 1997 release of Naked due to a deadline for my master’s thesis committee. One of my BFFs went in my place and later gifted me with a signed copy of the book with the inscription: “To Darby, So sorry I missed you but it’s not my fault you’re in graduate school for public history. —David Sedaris.” Years ago, Sedaris recognized that many of the self-destructive drinking mechanisms he learned at the family table (and bar) were interfering with his work, relationships and health, and he quit drinking. Says Sedaris of his family’s dynamic in Naked, “We were not a hugging people. In terms of emotional comfort it was our belief that no amount of physical contact could match the healing powers of a wellmade cocktail.” As Sedaris’s descriptions include consumption of everything from cheap Scotch to rare French wine vintages, I’m sticking with his (equally funny) sister Amy Sedaris’s suggestion for a simple entertaining DIY drinks station: A bucket of ice, an array of full-sugar Mexican colas and random booze for selfmixing. Add a pecan-crusted cheese ball served with blue corn tortilla chips, of course, for cocktailhour noshing.
The Writer: Ernest Hemingway The Work: A Moveable Feast (1964) The Drink: Hemingway Special Daiquiri Ernest Hemingway
“I drink to make other people more interesting,” is probably the most on-the-nose of Ernest Hemingway’s attributions. Famous as much for his written words as for his larger than life persona, bars from Havana to Paris laud Hemingway’s drinking legacy in the form of quotes, recipes and accumulated cocktail-related ephemera. His first major novel in 1926, The Sun Also Rises, chronicled hard-drinking, absinthe-fueled exploits of jaded American and British post-WWI expatriates in Spain and France. On the advice of a friend and fellow “Lost Generation” ex-pat in Paris, Hemingway was encouraged to visit Cuba and Key West, Fla., places that appealed to his gusto-driven lifestyle and fascination with unique environs and character-rich people. When I visited the Hemingway Home in Key West years ago during a trip retracing Hemingway’s sport-fishing haunts, I was as much captivated by the challenging fly fishing as by the polydactyl (sixtoed) feline inheritors of his estate and, of course, the region’s citrus-forward cocktails. My go-to Hemingway staple was influenced by his many years visiting and living in Havana, Cuba: the Hemingway Special Daiquiri aka “Papa Doble,” as it’s called when served as Hemingway ordered, double strength. Recipe: Hemingway Special Daiquiri 2 ounces overproof white rum (such as Wray & Nephew) or Distillery 36 Brigham Rum ½ ounce maraschino liqueur ¾ ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce fresh grapefruit juice To a shaker filled with ice add all ingredients. Shake until tin is frosty, strain into a coupe class. Garnish with lime wheel.
Devour Utah • january 2020 39
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Spirit Guide
Bernard DeVoto The Writer: Bernard Devoto The Book: The Hour—A Cocktail Manifesto (1948) The Drink: A Spiteful Dirty Martini Considered nationally as one of the most influential historians and political critics of his time, Ogden native Bernard DeVoto wholeheartedly embraced the ethos of a dedicated cocktail hour, as Devour Utah writer John Rasmuson has noted in previous essays. He penned a treatise, The Hour: A Cocktail Manifesto in 1948 that became wildly popular. In addition to being a Pulitzer Prize-winning essayist, historian and novel writer, DeVoto championed public lands in the West, taught at Northwestern University and Harvard and served as Democratic presidential candidate Adlai Stevenson’s speechwriter in the 1950s. Often described as being in equal parts brilliant, bullheaded and bombastic by his peers and critics, DeVoto had the good sense to marry the book reviewer, editor and prolific cook Avis MacVicar in 1923. The two had a long partnership centered around the love for the written word. Both DeVotos became close friends with Robert Frost, and Avis was an influential guiding hand for Julia Child’s cookbook career. Perhaps Bernard DeVoto was poking a bit of fun at Avis’s dear friend Child—a longtime lover of olive-garnished gin martinis—by writing: “And, I suppose, nothing can be done with people who put olives in martinis, presumably because in some desolate childhood hour someone refused them a dill pickle and so they go through life lusting for the taste of brine.” Recipe: A Deliciously Spiteful Dirty Martini 2 ounces Hammer Spring Distillers gin ½ ounce Ransom dry vermouth splash of green olive brine To a stirring glass filled with ice add all ingredients. Stir well to chill, strain into a chilled coupe glass. Olive garnish. ❖
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Devour Utah • january 2020 41
DEREK CARLISLE
Last Bite
Eat Your Words
Searching for tongue buzz in a sea of food clichés BY JOHN RASMUSON
A
latent, nerdish impulse is quickened in me when the subject is— to quote Hamlet—“words, words, words.” I like ’em, I really do! I’ve been known to browse a dictionary. I pore over each year’s crop of coinages to find the likes of “locavore,” a 2007 word of the year, and “foodie,” a noun born in New York Magazine almost 40 years ago. Tracing the etymology of such idioms as “eat your words” has distracted me from household chores. What I most like, however, is words fitted together with the lapidary skill of the likes of Don Delillo, Vladimir Nabokov and John McPhee. Writers of lesser ability—me, for instance—often come up short. Sometimes we fail to get the right words in the right order. Other times, we regress to the formulaic. (By that I mean plodding, linear constructs like the five-paragraph “process” essay in high school English.) When is the last time you read a restaurant review that didn’t lead with appetizers and conclude with dessert? Such structural challenges aside, those of us in the food-journalism dodge deal with abstractions—textures, flavors and aromas—and the need to bring them to life in the minds of readers. This is so difficult, writes New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov, there is a tendency to develop a descriptive vocabulary that may not be understood by the reader. He cites “minerality” as an example. For Asimov, “minerality is a highly useful general term that helps to convey the character of wines, which can seem stony, pebbly or rocky.” For me, minerality justifies one more glass of
42 Devour Utah • january 2020
calcium-enriched cabernet. In the writers’ tool kit, nouns like minerality are outnumbered by modifiers, 20 to one. That despite Stephen King’s insistence that the road to hell is paved with adverbs and the fact that adjectives are the furry lumps of roadkill along the way—many of which have been run into the ground by food writers. On the RIP list are: orgasmic, cloying, toothsome, velvety, artisanal, moist and Instagrammable. Verbs and figures of speech have longer life expectancies. The pairing of an onomatopoetic verb and a simile in the New York Times described a parfait that “nearly buzzes on the tongue—like the exhilarating miracle of swallowing a bee before it has a chance to sting you.” It is good writing. It is also an object lesson at a time when plant-based meat substitutes are gaining market share. Food writers will have to do better than “tastes like beef” if they hope to appeal to the nerdish bent of climate-activists who believe meatlessness is a smart way to alleviate global warming. “Better for you, better for the environment” is New Wave Foods’ slogan for its plant-based shrimp that “tastes like the real thing.” No tongue buzz in those words, and therein lies the challenge food writers face. They will have to retool—find new words—just as political journalists have done to report on the Trump phenomenon. Failing that, the words will be so “weary, stale, flat and unprofitable,” that both reader and writer will be left as melancholic as Hamlet. ❖
Devour Utah • january 2020 43
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SICILIAMIAUTAH.COM 44 Devour Utah • january 2020
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