VOL. 5 NO. 10 • OCTOBER 2019 • FEASTS OF THE WORLD FREE COPY
DIVINE dumplings p. 10
Bottles For Your Bucket List P. 50
s t s a e F of t h e d l r o W P. 36
Devour Utah • October 2019 1
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Devour Utah • October 2019 3
Contents
WAHSO TOFU WITH VEGETABLES: PHOTO BY MIKA AND CAIT LEE
10 Hot pockets
44 Plate It
BY MIKA LEE AND CAIT LEE
BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
14 Your Feast Awaits
46 Devour This Recipe
A dumpling feast from around the globe Spedelli’s poutine
12 luscious landings for those special occasion BY DEVOUR STAFF
40 The Spread
Rabbit porchetta with Briar Handly BY DARBY DOYLE
50 Feast Your Senses
Ginger Street
Spirits experts weigh in on their bucket-list bottles
42 The Green Scene
58 Comfort Carbs
BY AMANDA ROCK
BY HEATHER L. KING
BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
Meatless feasts at Chopfuku 4 Devour Utah • October 2019
BY DARBY DOYLE
Belgian waffles and frites are a bite of bliss
Be
FEARLESSIn The
Kitchen
Now, Anyone Can Attend Culinary School! Get certified in as few as 6 Weeks In Salt Lake City - Small Class Sizes Convenient Schedules. Call for more information! #1 Best of State in Culinary Education
1484 South State Street, Salt Lake City | pcculinary.com | 801.413.2800 Devour Utah • October 2019 5
Contribu tors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Director of Operations PETE SALTAS Edi torial
Editor JERRE WROBLE Proofreader LANCE GUDMUNDSEN Contributors CAROLYN CAMPBELL, DARBY DOYLE, ANNA KASER, HEATHER L. KING, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, CLAIRE MCARTHUR, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, AMANDA ROCK
Mika Lee and Cait Lee are food writers known for food binging, test kitchens and food photography. Their adventurous palates have taken them around the world. @crazyfullasians
Production
Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, SEAN HAIR, CHELSEA NEIDER
Business /Office
Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS
Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at ABourbonGal.com.
Marketing
Director of Events and Marketing SAMANTHA SMITH
Circulation
Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
Sales
Magazine Advertising Director Sales Director, Events Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executive
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF KYLE KENNEDY ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER KELLY BOYCE
Rebecca Ory Hernandez began her life in south Louisiana surrounded by Cajun gardeners and cooks who instilled in her a love of preparing well-made food. Now a freelance writer, home cook and artist, Rebecca lives (and cooks) in Ogden.
Cover photo by Mika Lee and Cait Lee: Wahso executive chef Rafael Zamora recommends an Asian feast Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing
Heather L. King writes about food and culture in Utah and beyond. She is the founder of Utah Ladies Who Lunch and a proud Great Dane owner.
Copyright 2019 All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • October 2019
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Devour Utah • October 2019 7
From the Editor
Savory or Sweet Our Food is Hard to Beat
FIESTA FLAVOR
A
• Breakfast • Lunch • Take-out • Catering • HUGE Beverage Menu!
FREE BEVERAGE with Entree purchase Valid through 10/31/2019
CafeVilleBella.com 3679 Harrison Blvd, Ogden 801.603.0385
lucky find at the slowly closing Eborn bookstore on downtown Salt Lake’s Main Street is a book titled Dining In—Salt Lake City: Cookbook: A collection of gourmet recipes for complete meals from the Salt Lake City area’s finest restaurants. Assembled by U of U history professor emeritus Larry R. Gerlach and the late Carole B. von Schmidt, it highlights 21 local restaurants circa 1985. The recipes showcased Salt Lake’s fine-dining scene of the time, including chefs such as Margueritte and Roman Gales of La Fleur de Lys, Max Mercier of Le Parisien, Owen and Barbara Reese of New Orleans Café, Franklin Biggs of Deer Valley’s Silver Lake Lodge, Philippe Held of Philippe’s at Park City’s Copperbottom Inn, Drew Ellsworth of Restaurant Dijon and Roger Cortello with The Roof. Amid recipes for classic French, Italian and German dishes were a few standouts, one them being the cuisine of Casa Grande. That’s where, according to Dining in— Salt Lake City, a formidable Salt Lake chef had begun to build her legacy. Born in Villa Escovedo, Chihuahua, Mexico, in 1924, María Cardenas learned to cook from her mother and then from a woman she considered the most famous woman chef in Juarez, Mexico: Virginia Prats. María moved to San Francisco in 1955 where she met Ramón , who became her husband of more than four decades. They opened a restaurant in the Bay Area where María not only cooked but made wedding cakes on the side. With two children, Lucy and Ramón Jr., in tow, Ramón and María yearned for more opportunity. In 1965, a family member suggested the couple look into an eatery called the Casa Grande in Salt Lake City. They saw its potential and soon moved to Utah to take over the restaurant, eventually locating it at 177 E. 200 South. Twenty years later, as business on 2nd South dwindled, the couple closed Casa Grande and opened the Red Iguana, initially on 300 West between 1st and 2nd South, and then, after a fire in 1986, at the present-day North Temple location. They served the same delicious fare—their crowd-pleasing enchiladas, chile rellenos, chile Colorado and moles—as they did at Casa Grande, but the new location strongly resonated with locals as well as visitors from around the world, catapulting the eatery into fame. Sadly, just as the hard work began to pay off, María Cardenas died in 2002, followed by their son, Ramón Jr., who died in 2004. Today, Ramón Sr. is retired, and daughter, Lucy Cardenas, purchased the business with her husband Bill Coker. They also have a second location (Red Iguana 2) and a food court eatery called Taste of Red Iguana. Dining in—Salt Lake City quoted María as saying, “Contrary to popular belief, Mexican food is not necessarily hot. It is festive, colorful, healthful food, seasoned delicately or boldly at the discretion of the chef.” While she wished more customers would order authentic specialties such as pollo pibil (chicken in banana leaves) and Veracruz-style red snapper, her idea of a Mexican fiesta, according to the recipe book, included a smoked-oyster salsa appetizer, lentil soup, shrimp-stuffed avocados, arroz con pollo (chicken in saffron rice) and old-fashioned flan, much of which, in 2019, is off-menu and would need to be arranged in advance. All the same, when planning a feast for family and friends in Salt Lake, a visit to Red Iguana is often top of mind. We hope you enjoy getting your feast on at the eateries we’ve highlighted in this month’s issue. ¡provecho! ❖ —Jerre Wroble PS—La Caille (9565 S. Wasatch Blvd., Sandy) was also featured in Dining in—Salt Lake City and remains one of a few iconic dining establishments from the’80s still in operation. The rustic elegance of La Caille will be the site of our international food feast called Devour the World, slated for Thursday, Oct. 17, from 7 to 10 p.m. Tickets are $75 per person and include craft cocktails, ethnic foods from local restaurants and entertainment. Read more on p. 36 or—or for tickets—visit DevourUtah.com/ index.php/contest/promotions. Look forward to seeing you there!
8 Devour Utah • October 2019
THE PATIO IS OPEN!
It’s time to book your
PARTY 2155 s highland drive | salt lake city Reservations: 385.602.3177
3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com Devour Utah • October 2019 9
Hot Empanada Express: Chicken, left, and Argentine beef with avocado sauce, right; the Jamaican with mango sauce, bottom
A dumpling feast from around the globe STORY AND PHOTOS BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE
F
or centuries, bakers and cooks from around the world have been making dumplings, pockets and purses filled with savory meats, spicy veggies and sweet and sour fruits. Dumplings represent a staple of many culinary traditions and give us small bites of spice and flavor to help us better know the cuisine of other cultures. The ideas for wrappers and fillings are endless but one thing’s for sure: pocket foods remain a favorite around the world and can be enjoyed any time of day. For this month’s Fab Four, we’ve sought out some of the area’s tastiest dumplings. If you’re not familiar with them, we hope you’ll step out of your comfort taste zone and give them all a try!
10 Devour Utah • october October 2019
Fab Four
RUNNING ON EMPANADAS
While these tasty half moonshaped, filled hand-pies are popping up all over town, it’s hard to beat Empanada Express. Entrepreneurs Meredith Alfaro and her husband, Oliver, have been busy breaking the fastfood mold. Diners marvel at how something this tasty, authentic and wholesome can be prepared both quickly and affordably. Branching out from Oliver’s Venezuelan roots, this couple started their business offering two traditional favorites: an Argentine chicken empanada and a Venezuelan steak empanada. “We decided to expand to other South American countries,” Meredith says. After years of testing recipes to highlight the cuisines of Cuba, Jamaica, Colombia and others, the menu is wideranging and features delectable sides, sauces and desserts. Empanada Express 7178 Union Park Ave., Midvale 801-998-8212 EmpanadaExpress.com
MORE MOMOS
Momos are a staple in Tibetan cuisine, and locally, Cafe Shambala is celebrated for serving up all things Tibetan. Momos are among their most popular items, filled either with beef or vegetables. Our favorite is the vegetarian momo, a flour-based bread stuffed with potatoes, carrots, peas, beans, cabbage, cilantro, turmeric and celery. Handmade, cooked either steamed or fried, and accompanied by a ginger sauce (made with a secret recipe), these momos will knock your socks off with a house chili sauce, rated next-level spicy. Cafe Shambala 382 Fourth Ave., SLC 801-364-8558 Cafe-Shambala.business.site
Steamed veggie momo with ginger sauce, served up fresh and delicious at the family-owned and -operated Cafe Shambala
Devour Utah • October 2019 11
12 Devour Utah • October 2019
Fab Four
WAIT FOR IT— SAMBUSA!
This mom-and-pop gem offers Middle Eastern and African dishes at affordable prices. Their sambusas are a Somalian dish that’s traditionally served at holidays, weddings, parties and just because. A savory combination of beef, onion and veggie fills thin, crispyfried wrappers. They’re best served with a lemon wedge and the creamy housemade hot sauce, finished with a mandazi roll (sold separately). Sambusas are made to order, and your wait is well worth it.
Noor’s Somalian sambusas filled with savory beef, onions and veggies
Noor Restaurant 1151 S. Redwood Road No. 108, SLC 801-975-6356
CRAVEABLE KIBBEH
Kibbeh is a Middle Eastern craveable dish you’ll want again and again. Luckily, Salt Lake City now has authentic Lebanese cuisine at a number of places including the Beirut Cafe. Newly opened this past summer and family-ownedand-operated, Beirut Cafe’s housemade fried kibbeh is stuffed with seasoned ground beef, onions and pine nuts encased in fine ground bulgur wheat. It’s unlike any other appetizer. The result is a burst of juicy flavor in a falafel textured crust. Served a la carte, you’ll also want a side of yogurt sauce for dipping. “The flavors are traditional, just like back home,” says Habib Soweidan, manager and owner. ❖ Beirut Cafe: Lebanese Cuisine & Farr Better Ice Cream 1326 E. 5600 South, SLC 801-679-1688 BeirutCafe.com
Beirut Cafe’s fried kibbeh features wrappers made with ground bulgur wheat that are stuffed with ground beef, onions and pine nuts
Devour Utah • October 2019 13
r u o Y t s a e F s it a Aw 12 luscious landings for those special occasions BY DEVOUR STAFF
14 Devour Utah • October 2019
I want the food to be comforting, beautiful, appear simple, but first and foremost, be delicious. —Tyler Stokes
His wok barbecue baby back ribs above fall in line with his philosophy
THE AMERICAN FEAST
Dishes with global influences Provisions chef Tyler Stokes knows that in the multicultural melting pot of the United States, “American” food is much more than cheeseburgers and fries. “It’s like how chef David Chang says that Momofuku is actually an American restaurant,” Stokes says, referring to the celebrity chef behind the Momofuku restaurant empire that serves everything from Southern fried chicken to smoked pork ramen. Provisions, with influences from across the globe, is an upscale eatery nestled in East Millcreek, inspired by
JOHN TAYLOR
W
e’ve all felt that wave of panic upon learning a second cousin is coming to town with her husband and six kids. Or when our boss asks us to take a very important client out on the town. Where do we go? How do we make them feel welcome? What eateries are we most proud of, and which do we show off? Even with social media and restaurant websites at our fingertips, we can still be stumped when we need inspiration for a special occasion. While each of our individual lists of favorites might go on for pages, this is the Devour Dozen, and we’re limited to just 12. As such, we know we’re only scratching the surface. Let us just say the eateries that follow grace us with their presence. They bring flavors and a dining experience to the 801 that we would not otherwise have. Their approach to food—from preparation and drink pairings to service and ambiance— converge to create a distinctive dining experience. Yes, it’s possible you could find a hair in your soup (we’re all human, even those who serve you food). But for now, let’s give these 12 their due as outstanding eateries that know how to put on a delicious feast. (And if we missed your favorite destination, please let us know on our social media!)
the seasons and serving a selection of small and large plates. Share caramelized wild shrimp and grits (cooked with scallion, red onion, ginger, garlic and chili with a slowcooked poached egg on top), dip a rice cracker into wagyu beef carpaccio with yuzu koshu aioli, truffle oil, arugula and katsobushi (dried fermented fish flakes), or dive into hamachi sashimi topped with coconut milk, lime juice, Thai basil, fresno chili and puffed rice. Housemade pappardelle (with braised rabbit, speck, sage-brown butter sauce and reggiano) and fried chicken (smothered in sticky sauce and herbs and served alongside green
Devour Dozen
COURTESY PHOTO
Fit for a feast: Provisions spice beignets with orange creme anglaise
COURTESY PHOTO
Provisions rabbit pappardelle
papaya salad and Thai coconut-ginger rice) are just some of the decadent large plates found on the restaurant’s everevolving menu. “I want the food to be comforting, beautiful, appear simple, but first and foremost, be delicious,” says Stokes, who has also created a feast for the eyes in the light-filled restaurant with dreamy red and white floral wallpaper. For the ultimate feast at Provisions, Stokes recommends kicking off the meal with a charcuterie and cheese board made from cured meat and farmstead cheese that change daily and are served alongside pickles and grilled bread.
“When our regulars come in, they really do know how to feast,” says Stokes. “We recommend two to three small plates for a table to share, then go into a couple of the seasonal specials before trying a couple of large plates. And you should always end with dessert.” Provisions is known for unique creations like spice beignets with orange creme anglaise and a passionfruit and black pepper ice cream sandwich. Housemade sorbets and ice creams are spun daily based on what’s in season. And don’t forget the wine: “We have a couple hundred bottles that
When feasting, Provisions chef Tyler Stokes recommends starting out with two to three small plates to share
CLAIRE MCARTHUR
Fried chicken smothered in sticy sauce, papaya salad and coconut-ginger rice
COURTESY PHOTO
COURTESY PHOTO
Hamachi sashimi topped with coconut milk
we’ve sourced from all over, but we predominantly try to focus on domestic wine from California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and New Mexico,” adds Stokes. As summer turns to fall and harvest is at its peak, it’s the ideal time to plan a multicourse (and multicultural) meal at Provisions. “It’s one of my favorite times of year,” Stokes says. (Claire McArthur) Provisions 3364 S. 2300 East, SLC 801-410-4046 SLCProvisions.com Devour Utah • October 2019 15
CHATEAU DINING
16 Devour Utah • October 2019
Feast at a country chateau complete with roaming peacocks
almost a brownie—not a cake.” La Caille’s classic bananas Foster, with a tableside presentation, is another dessert choice. The delightful blend of dark rum and homemade caramel enhances the flavor of the bananas, which are served over ice cream. After dessert, the finale includes a mignardise—a one-bite pastry—“with a bit of a wow factor, an explosion of taste from the pastry chef,” Dansie says. This year, La Caille became an estate winery. “We grow our grapes, then pick, process and bottle them to create our Chateau La Caille wine,” Dansie says. La Caille released its second wine, a chateau rose, in July. In late summer
La Caille’s roasted beet salad is topped with brûléed goat cheese
ANGELA HOWARD PHOTOGRAPHY
ANGELA HOWARD PHOTOGRAPHY
La Caille’s charcuterie board
ANGELA HOWARD PHOTOGRAPHY
A storybook setting for any special occasion Located within the picturesque ambience of a 23-acre pastoral countryside surrounding a turreted stone French-country chateau, La Caille offers a classy getaway for elegant feasting. Layne Dansie, general manager, says that dinner begins with an amuse-bouche, a single-bite hors d’oeuvre to awaken the palate, prepare the guest for the meal and offer a glimpse of the chef’s style. The appetizer “may or may not be similar to a future entrée,” Dansie says. “These flavorful little tastes allow the chef to see guests’ reactions to his fun creations.” On his European travels, Dansie came to appreciate the next pre-entrée offering, the charcuterie board. La Caille’s version contains samplings of both local and French cheeses, meats and homemade crostini and chutneys, along with a local pickled mustardseed honey. Filled with variety, it’s a fun appetizer to share, Dansie says. He suggests following this delectable beginning with the roasted beet salad. The earthy beets are topped with brûléed goat cheese and accompanied by arugula and other selected greens grown in the La Caille gardens. It’s drizzled with a lemon olive-oil vinaigrette sea salt dressing. To cleanse the palate prior to the entrée, diners are treated to sorbet, often made from raspberries grown in La Caille’s gardens. For a main dish, Dansie recommends the canard à l’orange risotto, “our beautiful Peking duck entrée, which includes a seared duck breast and duck leg confit, served over a locally foraged mushroom risotto. A champagne mandarin orange gastrique complements the flavor of the duck and is accompanied by candied orange peel, “to add to the dish or not, as you wish,” Dansie says. For dessert, he suggests the flourless chocolate cake, topped with a raspberry coulis pressed from La Caille’s own raspberries. Dansie notes this dessert “is highly flavorful and is
2019, they expect to release a red wine. “It is now possible to have a fullblown wine tasting and wine pairing using only the La Caille brand,” Dansie notes. “The ability to grow our own ingredients makes it always worth the effort to come up with new ideas,” he says. (Carolyn Campbell)
La Caille 9565 S. Wasatch Blvd., Sandy 801-942 1751 LaCaille.com
Devour Dozen
Sonora Grill’s queso fundido and shrimp chile relleno
EL BANQUETE
A family food celebration in Ogden Sonora Grill’s owner, Steven Ballard, believes in made-from-scratch food that celebrates regional Mexican cuisine. Sonora makes its food in small batches using whole ingredients with Ballard putting his own twist on each menu item. Intertwining good food with a modern, open and warmly welcoming interior, there’s the makings of a memorable experience. It’s not unusual to walk in any day of the week to see large pre-set tables ready for a family feast, but two or a few can gather and dine just as extravagantly.
REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
Sonora Grill’s elote is rolled in crema and sprinkled with cheese and spices
Once seated, your server delivers a basket of whole, made-in-house corn tortilla chips that you can break apart yourself. This is one large basket of chips! Two salsas complement the chips: green tomatillo and smoky red salsa. For those who like it hot, there’s a habanero salsa by request. If Ballard were to arrange a feast, he would suggest the following dishes Tableside queso fundido: melted cheese, salsa, and chorizo—perfect for more chips! The sizzling display captures attention. Perfectly paired with one of several house margaritas or a glass of wine or local beer gets supper started. Elotes (Mexican street corn by request):
This item is truly delicious, rolled in crema and sprinkled with cheese and spices with cabbage salad on the side. Watch the delightful faces of your tablemates as they try to stay clean. Shrimp chile relleno: The combination of the chilies, creamy enchilada sauce, black beans and coconut almond rice is a signature dish that customers return for again and again. Mocha cheesecake: This dessert is not overly sweet, nor is it overly tangy. It’s the perfect finish to your feast with lots of mocha and a hint of sweet. Regardless of how you feel about cheesecake, try at least one flavorful bite. Add agua fresca or a Sonora margarita to this feast and you’ve got a memorable gathering that is kind to your pocketbook. One of the best things about Sonora is the service, where they provide just enough attention while giving privacy and time to enjoy your meal. Oh, and parents will be glad to know there’s a kids’ menu. When asked what separates Sonora Grill from the others, Ballard says, “A good example is our cheese. Instead of buying generic cheeses like American or cheddar cheese that can be mixed with oil, we buy authentic cheeses including Oaxaca, asadero, manchego, panela, queso fresco and cotija.” One of the things that Ballard enjoys the most is looking for inspiration for new dishes. “We travel to Mexico at least once a year to learn more about Mexican cuisine,” he says. (Rebecca Ory Hernandez) Sonora Grill 2310 S. Kiesel Ave., Ogden 801-393-1999 TheSonoraGrill.com Devour Utah • October 2019 17
JOHN TAYLOR
Tuscany resembles a fairy-tale hunting lodge
UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN
Classy, robust fare paired with superb vintages Tuscany resembles a fairy-tale hunting lodge, bordered by majestic cottonwood and evergreen trees. This classy and cozy dining establishment is surrounded by lush greenery and vibrant colorful flowers. Inside, Tuscany brings to mind a chalet in the northern Italian Alps, complete with stained glass windows and a handmade 500-bottle wine cabinet. This stunning, one-off restaurant offers the perfect pastoral ambiance for a sumptuous 18 Devour Utah • October 2019
JOHN TAYLOR
JOHN TAYLOR
Along with finely crafted cocktails, diners can choose from Tuscany’s 600-bottle award-winning wine list
feast. Tuscany’s culinary staff prides itself on using fresh local ingredients to create a widespread menu that encompasses both traditional and Americanized Italian dishes. Tuscany’s fare is also a visual feast, “because you eat first with your eyes,” says Tuscany executive chef Adam Vickers. Shawn Boyle, Tuscany’s general manager, suggests starting off with an appetizer of beer-battered fried calamari, which has a light, crisp breading and is accompanied by a red pepper aioli. This appetizer, like most Tuscany dishes, “is large
JOHN TAYLOR
A good start: Tuscany’s beerbattered calamari
The pear salad features delicate greens with pine nuts and pear slices sprinkled with Gorgonzola cheese
enough to share, so that you can pass it around the table in the Italian familystyle tradition,” Boyle says. He then recommends the pear salad, featuring delicate greens, including arugula, radicchio and endive along with pine nuts and a julienned D’Anjou pear sprinkled with Gorgonzola cheese. The salad dressing is a champagne vinaigrette. “This light, airy salad complements the other courses,” adds Boyle. The maple-molasses brined doublethick pork chops have been a signature Tuscany entrée since its inception.
Devour Dozen Tuscany’s banana cream pie baked in a coconut tart
JOHN TAYLOR
Tuscany’s fare is also a visual feast, “because you eat first with your eyes,” says executive chef Adam Vickers
“They are marinated for 48 hours in a brine of molasses and bay leaves accompanied by a sachet of aromatics, then served with scallion whipped potatoes and a Marsala reduction sauce,” Boyle says. Another main course possibility is lasagna baked in Tuscany’s wood ovens. The lasagna’s flavor and texture are enhanced by fennel sausage, béchamel sauce, spinach, pomodoro and a meat sauce. This zesty entrée is finished with Parmesan cheese. Boyle suggests pairing the salad and main courses with a dry Riesling,
JOHN TAYLOR
JOHN TAYLOR
A Tuscany feast should include a maplemolasses brined double-thick pork chop
a pinot noir or one of their Piedmont wines. Along with Boyle’s suggested pairings, diners can also choose from Tuscany’s 600-bottle award-winning wine list. Boyle’s suggested dessert choice, also popular since Tuscany first opened, is the signature banana cream pie baked in a housemade coconut tart shell. Topping the tart shell is flavorful pastry cream with artfully angled brûléed bananas and freshly whipped cream. Boyle suggests pairing this dessert selection with a glass of champagne or moscato. Another suggested feast
finale is Tuscany’s famous “Mark Eaton” chocolate cake, a tall threelayer cake in which the layers are separated by chocolate ganache. Both the highest cake layer and the vanilla bean gelato that adorns it are also topped with chocolate sauce. Boyle suggests pairing the delectable cake with Graham’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port. (Carolyn Campbell) Tuscany Restaurant 2832 E. 6200 South 801-277-9919, TuscanySLC.com Devour Utah • October 2019 19
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Devour Dozen Say cheese with the halloumi cheese plate
SHARE THE DIP
It’s all about coming together to savor Middle Eastern fare Moudi Sbeity and his husband, Derek Kitchen, have worked hard to create a community hub at Laziz Kitchen where anyone and everyone will feel comfortable gathering and sharing a meal. And when Sbeity mentions sharing a meal, he means just that. Often, he says, a large group will come into the restaurant and order a variety of appetizers. When the dishes are served, the diners spoon a portion onto small plates—a little dip of hummus here and a stuffed grape leaf or two there, each eating from individual plates. And, being from Lebanon, Sbeity says this practice seems odd to him. “In Lebanon,” he says, “You would just dip into whatever plate the dip was served on. And other things you can
eat with your hands. [Dining] is more casual and comfortable there.” For those really special celebrations, and the small ones, too, here’s Sbeity’s menu of festive, sharable dishes at Laziz. To start, try an Arabic coffee, and if you desire a more spirited substance, go for one of their Lebanese beers or wines. Next are appetizers. Sbeity’s favorites are all extremely sharable, including the homemade baba ghannouj, a fireroasted eggplant dip with tahini, lemon and garlic, or the feta dip that’s cheesy with a spicy zing. Order a few dips, grab some pita and dig in. Another “can’t miss” item on the menu is the grilled halloumi cheese that comes with its own dip. If you simply can’t decide, order the sampler dip plate or the mezze appetizer platter for multiple flavors and textures.
Co-owners Derek Kitchen and Moudi Sbeity can help create your next feast
COURTESY PHOTO
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
A Lebanese meal begins with dips such as this hummus plate, says Laziz Kitchen co-founder Moudi Sbeity
For the main course, Sbeity suggests a favorite at many traditional Lebanese feasts: chicken and/or kafta beef skewers (aka Lebanese beef kabobs), accompanied by rice as well as Laziz’s silky hummus and freshly based pita bread. And you should know that when and where possible, Laziz uses locally sourced quality meats, such as ground beef and steaks from Niman Ranch. For the final flourish, Laziz offers a variety of ice cream, as well as baklava, pudding and cake. So, order a selection for the table and continue the theme of sharing by letting your dinner guests taste bite by bite. Sit back, enjoy the people you’re with, breathe in the aromas and spices of Lebanon and share some dip. (Anna Kaser) Laziz Kitchen 912 S. Jefferson St., SLC 801-441-1228 LazizKitchen.com Devour Utah • October 2019 21
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22 Devour Utah • October 2019
Devour Dozen
Table X chefs Nick Fahs, Michael Blocher and David Barboza work together to create a five-course Chefs Tasting Menu
COURTESY PHOTO
A Table X feast is a one-of-a-kind culinary adventure
CULINARY WHIMSEY
Experience the chef’s tasting menu for the ultimate feast In a former egg sorting facility built in 1929, three chefs (and good friends) have created a modern dining experience that you are not likely to find anywhere else in northern Utah. Tucked away in the neighborhood of Millcreek, Table X is a collaboration between chefs Michael Blocher, Nick Fahs and David Barboza—cooking school buddies-turned-business partners who, after years of working for other peoples’ restaurants on the East Coast, were ready to cook what they wanted to cook. The result is a modern American cuisine with a focus on quality products, including produce grown in their on-site, 13-bed French potager garden. Different varieties of fresh bread are made daily, butter is
churned and cultured in house, fresh homegrown herbs are hung out to dry in the open kitchen, and there’s always something pickling or fermenting. Table X started out as a series of pop-up dining events featuring a multi-course meal and wine pairings, but eventually, the trio realized it was time to find a permanent home. “The idea behind Table X was that it was this different experience and experimental in a way,” says Fahs, a Salt Lake City native. “The other part was that most restaurants have a table one or table zero, the chef’s table, so when we were branding the restaurant, we decided to make everything open and sort of make it so that every table is like a chef’s table.” To truly experience the collective creativity of Table X, indulge in the fivecourse Chef’s Tasting Menu ($55) and artfully selected wine pairings ($20).
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Nick Fahs: Every Table X table is a chef’s table
After an amuse-bouche and freshly baked bread, diners dive into two appetizers before a fish course. Next is an entree centered around beef, lamb or pork followed by a seasonal dessert. While this may sound like a vague outline of a meal, given the chefs’ ever-evolving culinary whimsies, you never know what you might find on the seasonally inspired menu. After just three years in business, Table X is nearing the hundredth iteration of its menu—so it’s sure to be a new and innovative experience with each visit. For the ultimate feast, book the private dining room overlooking the garden to enjoy the tasting menu with 14 of your food-loving friends. (Claire McArthur) Table X 1457 E. 3350 South, SLC 385-528-3712 TableXRestaurant.com Devour Utah • October 2019 23
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Wahso’s lobster crab ramen
UP THE ANTE
Indulge your senses with inspired Asian fare Fine dining, meet Asian fusion. She lives in Park City, and her name is Wahso. One of Bill White’s most longlived eateries, Wahso has remained a local foodie favorite for nearly two decades. Tuck yourself into an intimate booth behind a velvet curtain and begin your discovery of tantalizing appetizers, innovative main courses and scrumptious desserts. With its vintage 1930s Shanghai interiors, Asian sculptures, table lamps, 24 Devour Utah • October 2019
artifacts and art, Wahso’s interior is a blend of romantic sophistication that complements the fusion cuisine overseen by executive chef Rafael Zamora. Wahso uses locally sourced foods as much as possible, even growing its own microgreens and meats at the nonprofit Bill White Farms. Corporate executive chef Matt McMillen and his team collaborate to tweak traditional Asian favorites. Inventive they may be, but each twist is designed for broad appeal. “We want foreign foods to be approachable and not too niche,” he says.
Organic tofu with summer vegetables
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Tombo sashimi
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Korean pear romaine salad
So how would Devour readers experience a feast at Wahso? Chef McMillen suggests beginning the tour of Asian flavors with the Korean pear romaine salad. Korean pears, known for their crunchy texture and subtle sweet juice, balance the rich, crispy pork belly dressed in a sudachi citronette. Another starter not to miss: the tombo sashimi, which is seared albacore tuna dressed to the nines with ponzu onions, garlic chili sauce and farm herbs. No visit to Wahso is complete with
Devour Dozen
ordering the famous lobster + crab ramen. The secret to this striking dish is the black-bean crustacean sauce in the broth. “Meeting the consumer halfway yet expressing what our chefs wanted resulted in this delicious [lobster and crab ramen] dish,” Chef McMillen says, while highlighting the nontraditional Asian ingredients that fill the bowl, including Chinese sausage and wood ear mushrooms. Savory swirls of umami broth make a guest thirsty, and Mike Brown, Wahso’s beverage manager, can ably supply the needed guidance when it
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Sweet potato cake
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Your feast awaits: Enter Wahso on Main Street in Park City
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Wahso chef Rafael Zamora samples the dishes of his Asian-inspired feast
comes to pairing the dishes with the perfect beverage. For this world feast, Mantensei’s Star Filled Sky sake is recommended. The unique junmai gingo grade sake is delicious when chilled, and we’re told it gives a clean, dry finish to the umami flavor. Alternatively, wine aficionados might wish to pair this shellfish ramen with Atrea’s The Choir, a full-bodied white wine from Mendocino, Calif. Its balance of high acidity to the floral jasmine and melon notes serves as a palate cleanser between bites. To finish off our journey, we mark
the occasion with the delectable sweet potato cake with hazelnut praline ice cream, churned at Windy Ridge Bakery, a Bill White sister property. This gluten-free cake is reflective of Wahso’s desire to accommodate dietary restrictions, including allergies, low-fat and vegan. (Cait Lee and Mika Lee)
Wahso 577 Main St., Park City 435-615-0300 Wahso.com Devour Utah • October 2019 25
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Devour Dozen After the fast, Feldman’s Reuben sandwich might be on your mind
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A joyful Break the Fast Platter can be enjoyed at any time, but especially after Yom Kippur
To really appreciate food, abstain from eating for a day Feast days and fasting are often tied to faith. Christians, Muslims and Jews—to name but a few religions—often show devotion and sacrifice by abstaining from certain foods or even fasting from all food and even water for a prescribed period of time. In October, Jews fast in observance of Yom Kippur, Judaism’s holiest day of the year. In 2019, the Day of Atonement begins before sundown on Oct. 8 and ends at night fall on Oct. 9. During these 25 hours, Jews refrain from working, eating, drinking as well as other physical pleasures, and, instead, spend time praying and reflecting. “It is a day to think about what has gone wrong and what has gone right over the past year,” says Michael Feldman, owner of Feldman’s Deli.
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FAST, THEN FEAST
DEREK CARLISLE
Owner Michael Feldman reflects on Yom Kippur even while serving food to deli customers
These days, though, Feldman admits it is harder for him to fast for the entire duration, now that he is surrounded by food at his restaurant all day. He still takes the time to commit himself to being a good person and doing what is right at Yom Kippur each year. The day before the fast begins, families might eat a lunch that includes meat, such as breaded chicken and potatoes, then perhaps a dinner of a meatless soup or a high-carb dairy dinner. “People tend to eat lighter,” says Feldman of the last meal before the fast, noting that some will eat chopped liver, bagels and a spread. As for breaking the fast, Feldman says it’s a good idea to continue to eat light. “Once your stomach has shrunken,” he says, “it is hard to eat a lot.” At Feldman’s Deli, a joyful Break the Fast Platter can be shared with family and friends for this very occasion.
The platter includes bagels with six different spreads such as egg salad, tuna, chicken salad, liver, hummus and more. The combination of light, protein-packed food is the perfect way to begin the year spiritually and physically renewed. To non-Jews, the Break the Fast Platter may seem like a breakfast meal, but since Yom Kippur ends in the evening, family and friends typically enjoy breakfast fare, including quiches, noodle kugels and coffee cake. For those who wish to break their fast with something sweet, Feldman’s offers traditional rugelach, crescent-shaped filled pastries or hamantash, a cookielike pastry in the shape of a triangle often filled with a fruit filling. (Anna Kaser) Feldman’s Deli 2005 E. 2700 South, SLC 801-906-0369 FeldmansDeli.com Devour Utah • October 2019 27
Open everyday for breakfast & lunch!
Cottonwood Heights Cafe 7146 Highland Dr. | 801-947-0760 Open 7:00am-2:30pm
28 Devour Utah • October 2019
New Location!
FUSION FAVES
Happy, healthy food in Holladay After launching three traditional Thai restaurants, entrepreneur Anny Sooksri decided her next venture would feature her favorite foods, some of which are a fusion of Thai and other bold flavors. That’s how she came to name her eatery Fav Bistro, as each dish is one of her “faves.” When asked if her fusion fare is still authentically Thai food, she answers, “We prepare foods that taste like home,” noting that each dish can be prepared to reflect unique regional flavors and styles of cooking. “We use the freshest ingredients, down to the water we filter in house. We never use MSG in our dishes,” Sooksri stresses. The bistro prides itself on making each dish to order. “You can taste the difference in the quality when it’s prepared fresh,” she says, “and it’s worth waiting the few extra minutes.” Her ultimate Thai feast would begin with a green papaya salad with turmeric Thaiseasoned grilled chicken, a dish so large, it easily feeds a party of four. A popular Thai street food, the green tossed salad is refreshing, crisp and light— perfectly at home on the restaurant menu, served with toasted coconut garlic rice. Her tom kar chicken soup in young coconut is easily the most flavorful (and our favorite) soup on the menu. Beautifully presented in a coconut, ample enough to serve multiple guests, this tangy, sweet and creamy coconut milk soup will leave you wishing you’d ordered it all for yourself. The eggplant stir fry shines as the beacon of this feast, and only those in-the-know are aware of this tender, crunchy dish (it’s not on the fixed menu. Ask your server). Thin sliced eggplant is lightly battered and deep fried, with your choice of chicken, pork, tofu, shrimp or fish (we recommend the fish). The ingredients are stir-fried with sliced bamboo tips, bell pepper, carrots, baby corn and basil and drizzled in a special house sauce. Consider pairing this feast with Fav Bistro’s house-brewed kombucha. “The eggplant goes well with our kombucha on tap,” Sooksri says, and it gives the dish a probiotic kick. Fav Bistro is a probioticpositive environment, making its own kimchi, sauerkraut and kombucha for more than four years. “We learn from our [family] experiences of the benefits of probiotics and we help others with what we’ve learned,”
Devour Dozen Anny Sooksri never stops thinking up new restaurants to launch
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CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Fav Bistro’s tom kar soup served in a coconut
Fav Bistro’s off-menu eggplant fish stir fry
Fav Bistro 1984 E. Murray Holladay Road, Holladay 801-676-9300 ASooksri.com
Thai seasoned grilled chicken with a papaya side salad
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Sooksri says. The closing showstopper is the mango sticky rice. Fav Bistro’s variation? Pandan leaf gives the rice a pop of color and flavor, complementing the sweetness of the mango. Sooksri says these dishes mesh well together because they provide “a nice balance of all the flavors Thai food has to offer.” The large portions promote the sharing of dishes and flavors, something that is important in Thailand culture. Fav Bistro has variations to meet all dietary needs. Keep an eye on Anny Sooksri. She’s got yet another eatery in the works, the Noodle Run, which will be located on 6000 South and State Street. (Cait Lee and Mika Lee)
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
The perfect dessert: pandan leaf-mango sticky rice
Devour Utah • October 2019 29
IT’S SHOW TIME
Jewelry for every occasion
Custom design, in house work, jewelry repair, high quality diamonds, engagement rings. 801-583-2700 | 1346 S. 2100 E. SLC, UT www.redfordjewelers.com
30 Devour Utah • October 2019
Making the scene at a downtown original If a Broadway show brings you to the heart of downtown Salt Lake City, or if it’s your anniversary, or you need to wine and dine a business colleague, or just because you’re craving great food and top-notch service at a one-of-a-kind eatery with an lively exhibition kitchen, you best make a reservation at Bambara. For two decades now, Hotel Monaco has housed this smart restaurant that’s within walking distance to bars, concert venues, malls, convention centers and theaters. The bright, quirky decor will entertain your party while the kitchen whips up some of the tastiest and often the most unexpected food offerings. For Act I, follow executive chef Nathan Powers’ imagination. His feast-worthy appetizers range from crunchy blue-cheese potato chips to rather rare delicacies. “When I think of feasts,” he says, “I think of special occasions. The most special occasions for me include caviar.” He scoops up a heaping spoonful of hackleback sturgeon caviar and places it atop a baked and seasoned marble potato, then adds a dollop of crème fraîche and a pinch of finely diced fresh chives. Chef Nathan suggests pairing his potato caviar bites with vodka, namely Absolut Elyx, served neat, and frozen, so as not to overpower the delicate, briny caviar. This winter-wheat vodka helps balance the caviar’s bitterness with a buttery freshbread richness. Bambara’s potato caviar bites will be offered for a limited time only to assist in sustainability efforts of the caviar industry. Act II highlights the bounty of the fall hunt. Chef Nathan grills up a tender cut of elk, one of the largest game animals in North America. This juicy elk loin sits atop corn risotto and Luxardo cherry barbecue sauce and is served with seasonal harvest veggies such as wilted baby kale and tempura asparagus. Grilled loin of elk will be featured on the fall/winter menus at Bambara. Act III allows diners to play with textures and richness of the ever-popular cheese board, featuring an English Stilton blue cheese (while supplies last) and Point Reyes blue cheese with Utah’s own Slide Ridge honey. The 2-year aged blue English Stilton has an ethereal richness, is salty
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Bambara’s grilled loin of elk
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Caviar’s best friend: frozen Absolut Elyx vodka served neat
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
Bambara’s honey-drizzled cheese board
Bambara 202 S. Main, SLC 801-363-5454 Bambara-SLC.com
Chef Nathan Powers puts the finishing touches on his potato caviar bites
CAIT AND MIKA LEE
and nutty, yet creamy. Alternatively, the much younger 2-month old Point Reyes blue has a subtle sweetness with a strong blue flavor. “Honey mellows out the pungent flavor of blue cheese,” Chef Nathan says, but it holds its own intensely strong flavors, balancing out the dish. As a palate cleanser, Bambara recommends Inniskillin by the glass, a dessert ice wine with residual sugars that freshen your outlook between bites. (Cait Lee and Mika Lee)
Devour Utah • October 2019 31
Margarita D’alessandro makes all the pastries for the dessert course
JOHN TAYLOR
Sicilia Mia co-owner Giuseppe Mirenda at the cheese wheel displaying their pasta carbonara signature dish
Ravioli and mozzarella in a pumpkin cream sauce
JOHN TAYLOR
JOHN TAYLOR
JOHN TAYLOR
The coffee-flavored tiramisu and other pastries are made in-house
Creamy tomato basil soup
32 Devour Utah • October 2019
JOHN TAYLOR
JOHN TAYLOR
Sicilia Mia’s caprese salad
Devour Dozen
SICILIAN PRIDE
Fresh ingredients, carbonara made tableside, attentive service: What’s not to like? The Mirenda family who owns five Italian restaurants in Utah is excited to announce two new ways to feast on their delicious Sicilian food. At Sicilia Mia, the Holladay location, they have created a new five-course menu that is available Monday through Thursday. Co-owner Giuseppe Mirenda explains that this feast begins with a choice of either caprese or Caesar salad. Appetizers following the salad include a choice of the soup of the day, fashioned from fresh ingredients chosen by the chef, or sautéed mussels with red tomato sauce. The subsequent primi or first dish pasta course includes a choice of homemade ravioli mozzarella in a pumpkin cream sauce topped with walnuts and mint, or spaghetti sautéed in white wine sauce with halibut, raisins and pine nuts. The next course, the secondi, or meat course, presents a choice between steak Sinatra, a grilled breaded rib-eye steak topped with mushrooms and cherry tomatoes or pesce bianco, a white fish prepared in a delicate blood orange sauce flavored with fennel, oranges and green onion. Mirenda explains that Sicilian cooking often incorporates more flavoring and spices than traditional Italian fare. “Because Sicily is on the coast, there is a lot of seafood. Garlic, lemon and oranges are picked from the land and incorporated into the cuisine. Eggplant is also traditional.” Giuseppe’s mother, Margarita D’alessandro, makes the tiramisu and cannoli that comprise the final dessert course. At the bottom of the menu, there is an option to choose to add truffles to accompany all of the courses. “Truffles are a very rare Italian mushroom found on the humid parts of the mountains in Northern Italy,” says Giuseppe. The Mirendas are busy launching La Trattoria di Francesco in the Sugar House area. “This restaurant is the real Italian deal—all of our other restaurants are 98% Italian and this one is 100%. It offers 100% Italian culture,” says Mirenda. The restaurant features two rooms with a capacity of 8-25 people. “Within these rooms, the kitchen is visible,” Mirenda says. “It’s possible to see a display of all of the cuts of meat and fish we offer.” He explains that dinner at this location is a leisurely experience of 1½ to two hours in which the courses are prepared separately upon ordering. As a final course, diners may choose from two homemade desserts made from scratch by Margarita D’alessandro. “We would like to thank all the people from Utah for giving us this opportunity to bring a new atmosphere and a new way to serve Sicilian food here,” Mirenda says. “Our family wouldn’t be here without that opportunity and we look forward to this new adventure in opening our newest location.” (Carolyn Campbell) Sicilia Mia Multiple locations SiciliaMiaUtah.com
Opening soon: Trattoria di Franceso 1500 S. 1500 East, SLC
Devour Utah • October 2019 33
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Where else can you order green-pea salad?
34 Devour Utah • October 2019
At Benji’s, you can still drink the Kool-Aid
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Pulled-pork sandwich with a side of coleslaw
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Benji’s Bar-B-Que Shack meat combo plate
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Dynamite sides, including black-eyed peas
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CRAZY DELICIOUS ’ROUND THE CLOCK CUE
Follow the smoke, find the flavor, 24-7 Growing up in his native Georgia, Benjamin Stalling’s great grandmother, Ella Lee Webb, taught him the art of cooking while his mother showed him how to create traditional Southern barbecue. Today, he brings that multigenerational knowledge of creating melt-in-your mouth meat to his restaurant, Benji’s Bar-B-Que Shack, located just north of 3300 South on SLC’s State Street. His secret technique of cooking meat “hot and fast, and then wrapping it in Saran Wrap during the resting phase, locks in the moisture so that it essentially steams itself when it comes out of the pit,” says Stalling. Flavorful, tender and moist smoked meats such as pulled pork, beef brisket, beef ribs, chicken, burnt ends and occasionally, lamb, are weighed by the ounce—$1.50/ ounce, or just $1/ounce if you pay in cash. House sauces, including barbecue and Southern mustard sauce, are included to enhance the meat’s flavor. The individualized measurement allows diners to customize their portions. Stalling explains that the flexible option of “creating your own plate” makes it possible to fashion a unique feast at every visit. “It’s ‘build your own’ everything,” Stalling says. “There are no instructions. You go out there and get what you need, and that’s it.” Along with the variety of meats, sides include mac and cheese with a thick, rich sauce and a bit of a kick, beans, coleslaw, corn bread, black-eyed peas, salad greens and dirty rice. They’re all offered a la carte at $4 for a half pound. Desserts—including apple, peach or cherry crisp, banana pudding and lemon icebox pie—are priced at $1/ ounce. Stalling’s own favorite combo is to add ribs, chicken, pulled pork, mac and cheese, collard greens, barbecued beans and coleslaw to his plate. For a sip of Southern sweetness, free Kool-Aid is offered with food purchases and a quart of Southern sweet tea is $4. The option to buy meats, sides and desserts in individual portions makes it possible to both have a dine-in feast or take it with you to savor at home. Catering is also available. “If you’re hungry now, you won’t be when you leave Benji’s,” Stalling promises. Open 24-7, the restaurant’s hours can accommodate all customers’ work schedules. And there’s also food for dogs at Benji’s. “We smoke our bones for 60 hours, then sell them for $15/bag as dog treats,” Stalling says. The dog treats are offered in honor of King, a dog that Benji rescued when the canine was 8 weeks old. In the winter, Stalling hopes to launch Benji’s Meals On Wheels, “a home feast delivery service like Blue Apron. With a minimum order of four meals, we will deliver the food to you hot and ready.” (Carolyn Campbell) ❖ Benji’s Bar-B-Que Shack 3245 S. State, SLC 435-709-5227 BenjisBarbqueShack.com
3 CATERING OPTIONS TO SERVE YOU! PICK UP, DROP OFF, OR STAFFED EVENTS
FANCY TACOS & FINE TEQUILAS
1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE | 385-259-0712 4670 HOLLADAY VILLAGE PLAZA (2300 EAST) | 801-676-9706 149 EAST 200 SOUTH | 385-259-0940 6154 SOUTH FASHION PLACE BLVD | 801-266-2487 1688 W TRAVERSE PARKWAY (LEHI) | 801-331-8033
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK I T A Q U E R I A 2 7 . C O M Devour Utah • October 2019 35
‘DEVOUR THE WORLD’ PARTICIPANTS
1.
2.
3.
1. LA CAILLE
La Caille is located on 20 manicured acres at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Providing excellence in service and cuisine for over 40 years, come enjoy the view, ambiance and award-winning food from Chef Billy Sotelo. Chateau La Caille bottles five different wines for sale in our package store, two of which are grown, harvested, aged and bottled right on property. 9565 S. Wasatch Blvd., Sandy 801-942-1751 lacaille.com 36 Devour Utah • october 2019
2. THE LOCAL GREEK
Executive chef and owner Geoffrey Patmides has been waiting a long time to show the love and passion passed on by his yiayia (grandmother). Raised in a traditional Greek household, all inspiration and teachings come from strong roots originated in Greece. The love that goes into every item we put forth does so with hopes of bringing people together and showing everyone how delicious and comforting Greek food can be. “Always say hi, always have a smile and always appreciate the life we have and the people we love and the food we eat” —The Local Greek 3673 W. 13400 South, Riverton 801-996-3042 thelocalgreek.com
3. BHUTAN HOUSE
Bhutan is a country nested in the Eastern Himalayas, sandwiched between China and India. According to archeological evidence, Bhutan has been inhabited for 4000 years. It’s a country of natural beauty that’s aiming for zero net greenhouse gas emissions to become not only the carbon neutral, but also carbon negative. Similarly, Bhutan House Restaurant has a key focus on preserving our environment by reducing the use of plastic accessories. We do our best to preserve and promote the local environment by going green with our genuine effort. Bhutan House aims to provide exceptional customer service, in a friendly environment, keep in mind about the health for both customer and our business. Welcome and be a part of Bhutan House Family. 1241 E. 8600 South, Sandy 801-679-0945 bhutanhouserestaurant.com
4.
4. FAV BISTRO
Chef Anny Sooksri has always enjoyed the flavors of Thai food. Her passion for cooking began early on since having grown up with a grandmother who loved to cook and made everything from scratch. Her desire to share her love of Thai food with her community led her to the opening of her first restaurant, Tea Rose Diner in 2007. From there she has gone on to open Chabaar (2011) Siam Noodle Bar (2014) Fav Bistro @favbistro (2017) and Noodle Run (2019). Anny’s passion is tasted in every entree, at every restaurant. Running five restaurants is a labor of love for her, but when she does have some free-time, she enjoys biking, hiking and sharing meals with friends. 1984 E. Murray Holladay Road, Holladay 801-676-9300 asooksri.com
thursday, October 17
7 pm - 10 pm at La Caille 9565 Wasatch Blvd. Sandy, UT
5.
international food festival and craft beverage experience
tickets include multi-cultural cuisine and craft beverages from Utah’s best ethnic restaurants, distilleries and breweries
5. PARK CITY CULINARY INSTITUTE
Become Fearless in the Kitchen at Park City Culinary Institute. Our new Salt Lake City campus hosts programs in cooking, baking, pastries, and craft mixology. You don’t need to be a professional to Cook Like a Pro! 1484 S. State, Salt Lake City 801-413-2800 parkcityculinaryinstitute.com
VENDORS INCLUDE:
For tickets and more info go to devourutah.com/promotions Devour Utah • october 2019 37
‘DEVOUR THE WORLD’ PARTICIPANTS
6. NEW WORLD DISTILLERY
New World Distillery in Eden, Utah, produces super premium beverage spirits. With an emphasis on New World ingredients and motifs, New World Distillery's discriminators are not only in their product formulation but also in the green aspects of the production, facility and process. We are open for tastings, tours and retail sales. Distillers of Rabbit and Grass Blanco and Reposado Agave Spirits, Oomaw Gin, Wasatch Blossom UT Tart Cherry Liqueur, the Uncharted Series and Ogden Valley VODKA. New World Distillery will be releasing their first Bourbon Whiskey Christmas, 2019. 4795 E. 2600 North, Eden 385-244-0144 newworlddistillery.com
38 Devour Utah • october 2019
6.
8.
7.
9.
7. MOUNTAIN WEST HARD CIDER
8. OGDEN'S OWN
Mountain West Hard Cider sources only the finest local ingredients from the Mountain West region to craft every day, seasonal and artisan hard apple ciders. Mountain West is owned and operated by Jennifer and Jeff Carleton, who along with their associates share a passion for the community, locally-owned business, and obviously: good times with good friends. Mountain West offers awardwinning cider and is ready to show people that The West isn’t just for beer anymore.
Ogden’s Own Distillery announced the release of their new Porter’s Rye Whiskey. Porter’s Rye is a 95/5 blend of rye and barley. The straight rye whiskey has been aging in heavy charred, new oak barrels for over three years. The new design features Porter’s face moved to the rear of the bottle and is seen peering through the glass. Ogden’s Own is releasing approximately 1,000 cases of Porter’s Rye in 2019.
425 N. 400 West, SLC 801-935-4147 mountainwestcider.com
3075 Grant Ave., Ogden 801-458-1995 ogdensown.com
9. HOLYSTONE DISTILLING
Holystone Distilling is a unique, artisan distillery where we turn thoughtfully curated ingredients into exceptional spirits. Our award-winning, ultrapremium spirits are handmade with passion, patience and skill. Available for purchase in liquor stores throughout Utah, as well as our distillery in Murray, the gift of Holystone Distilling spirits, is the gift of Luxury Distilled. 207 W. 4860 South, Salt Lake City 503-328-4356 holystonedistilling.com
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13.
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11. 10. BETONY TRAVELING CAFE
Betony Traveling Café, is a personal/ private chef and catering service founded in the summer of 2018 and based out of Salt Lake City. The business model of the café is unique, in that chef Billy Moschella Jr., the owner and founder, prepares savory meals of your choice in your own home kitchen. The café also prepares and delivers cateringstyle trays of fresh baked goods and pastries, available for direct purchase. Betony Traveling Café is available for events of all kinds, including personal/ private chef services, small-scale gatherings, get-togethers with friends and family, and intimate candlelight dinners (for smaller groups). It’s like bringing the restaurant or the pastry shop straight to your front door! Mobile service
801-651-9863 betonytravelingcafe.com
11. HUGO COFFEE ROASTERS
12. SAN DIABLO ARTISAN CHURROS
13. BENJI’S BUTCHER SHOP
1794 Olympic Parkway, Park City 435-655-5015 hugo.coffee
1212 Draper Pkwy., Draper (inside Macey's) 801-432-0880 sandiablochurros.com
3245 S. State Street 435-709-5227 benjisbbqshack.com
Hugo Coffee Roasters is a local coffee roasting company with the social mission to save dogs by roasting fantastic, fair trade, organic coffee. Hugo Coffee donates between 8-10% of all retail coffee sales to animal rescues including local favorites Nuzzles & Co. (in a former life, Claudia, the owner, used to be the Exec Dir of Nuzzles & Co.) and Best Friends Animal Society. Hugo Coffee aspires to be the go-to coffee for all animal lovers! #drinkcoffeesavedogs #coffeewithapaws
San Diablo Artisan Churros specializes in providing artisan filled churros for special events, parties and celebrations. Their churros are handcrafted to golden crispy perfection, coated with sugar and freshly ground cinnamon, and then filled with a choice of sweet happiness--like the traditional dulce de leche, Nutella, or sweet cream, or specialty flavors like lemon curd, strawberry cheesecake or coconut cream.
Benji’s Butcher Shop imports 9+ Wagyu Kobe Beef Style Beef direct from Australia’s finest producer, Sher Wagyu. Sher Wagyu’s exceptional, highly marbled meats are in great demand in Japan and throughout Asia. Experience America’s first, “ Appointment Only” butcher shop. Our Wagyu is raised without antibiotics or added growth hormones, and 100% Halal Certified.
Devour Utah • october 2019 39
Ginger Street’s flavorful food is mirrored in the vibrant, trendy interiors
the
Spread S
erving up Southeast Asian hawker-style street food in a restaurant reminiscent of Urban Outfitters, the Ginger Street experience is anything but understated (in the best way possible). The eclectic eatery opened this June thanks to a partnership between Michael McHenry, the restaurateur behind OAK Wood Fire Kitchen in Draper (and former Even Stevens president) and Tyler Stokes with Provisions in SLC. “We wanted to bring the intentionality and integrity of fine dining to a fastcasual setting,” says McHenry. “We’ve brought a flavorful, inventive menu to Salt Lake City as well as an aesthetic and
40 Devour Utah • october 2019
Ginger Street
STORY AND PHOTOS BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
energy that is as spicy and vibrant as the food that we serve at the table.” And vibrant it is—the restaurant’s logo is hot pink, a disco ball hangs from the ceiling, the servers rock multi-colored fanny packs, and at night, a DJ cranks tunes from a booth. String lights drape across the ceiling amid hanging plants and woven pendant lamps. The seating ranges from large round tables to accommodate big groups to bleacherstyle seating accented with kilim pillows for those who want a quick bite. The Pan Asian restaurant incorporates cuisine from Thailand, China, Vietnam and Singapore, while focusing on sourcing quality ingredients.
“We’re utilizing no-hormone chicken, all-natural meats, wild-caught shrimp, as much local and regional produce as we can, and organic almost all the time,” explains Stokes. The crispy duck fresh rolls are a standout menu item, featuring duck confit rolled up in an egg roll wrapper with a mixture of cabbage, shiitake mushroom, onion, scallion, soy sauce and white pepper. After a trip to the fryer, the roll is wrapped in rice paper with shiso basil, mint and cilantro and dipped in a sesame hoisin sauce for a delightful mixture of textures and flavors. From dandan noodles and orange chicken to pad Thai and tofu red curry,
The Spread Ginger Street’s fried chicken sandwich is sweet, salty, crunchy and tangy
Bleacher-style seating caters to diners in need of a quick bite
Ginger Street’s eggplant chop suey is a rich and flavorful vegan dish
the menu at Ginger Street is inclusive for all diets, including many dishes that are naturally vegan, vegetarian and glutenfree. The eggplant chop suey is a surprisingly rich vegan option. “We take long skinny Chinese eggplants, do a quick flash fry on those and then sauté them in the wok with chilies, garlic, a little bit of oil and red bell peppers,” Stokes says. “We hit it with a prik tum (Thai chili paste) and miso paste and finish it with Thai basil over rice. It’s got great heat, and the eggplant has this fleshy butteriness that’s amazing.” For the meat eaters, the fried chicken sandwich is a must-try. Crispy fried
Restaurateur Michael McHenry, left, and chef Tyler Stokes opened Ginger Street in June
chicken is sandwiched in a squishy bun with a green papaya slaw, tomato, kewpie mayonnaise (Japanese mayo), sliced jalapeno and a heap of fresh cilantro. Complemented by a selection of natural wines, imported and local beer, Thai teas and other Asian-inspired cocktails, Ginger Street has clearly created its own niche—and they’re sticking to it. Round out the meal with a playful soft serve cone of vanilla bean, curry, strawberry or coconut-lime coated in Fruity Pebbles. Ginger Street also offers a streetside “wok up” window open 11 a.m. to 10
The crispy duck fresh rolls are stuffed with duck confit
p.m. Monday to Thursday, until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday, and from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. on Sunday. “So, when you’re hopping between bars or leaving a music venue late at night, you can come up to our window and grab a spicy chicken sandwich,” says McHenry. “We don’t believe you can get the experience of Ginger Street anywhere else in Salt Lake City. It was time to bring this type of atmosphere and this culture and this dining experience to the heart of the city.” ❖ Ginger Street 324 S. State, SLC 385-477-4975 GingerStreet.com Devour Utah • october 2019 41
The Green Scene
Go West! Chopfuku in Taylorsville has a vegan menu in the works
Meatless Feasts
Chopfuku’s new vegan menu is a feast waiting to happen BY AMANDA ROCK | PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
Y
ou might not expect to find a sushi restaurant in a strip mall amid a sprawling golf course and several mobile home parks east of Taylorsville. Yet, if you’re driving east along 4500 South, your eyes might catch a glimpse of the large red letters of the Chopfuko marquee. Those who follow the restaurant on social media are familiar with the name—which means “lucky chop chop,” the knife-cutting sound—and those red letters. Chopfuko’s Instagram feed showcases a slew of colorful and elaborate sushi and Asian dishes, but when they posted teasers of a vegan menu in the works, they had my full attention. Thoa Hoang, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Van Tran, shared the inspiration behind the new vegan menu with me. She wanted to make sure the Buddhist elders in her family could enjoy a vegan feast. “We have a Buddhist background,” Thoa says. “There are religious dates where they would go vegan for a whole day, a week or a whole month.” Since the younger generations in her family don’t necessarily eat vegan on religious holidays, Thoa said, “It’s pretty tricky to think of a place where I can take them where we can all eat.”
42 Devour Utah • october 2019
Having a full vegan menu was important, and she wanted her family to enjoy an appetizer, salad or soup, and an entree. At other Asian restaurants, her parents and grandparents could only find a vegan entree. “I want them to have a full meal,” she said, not just one or two dishes. Thoa and Van assure me the vegan menu will expand as the two kitchen magicians on staff, Chef Ty and Chef Long, continue to create new dishes. They both enjoy the challenge of composing new menu items, such as the off-menu special treat they prepared for me: a traditional Buddhist monk’s meal of glass noodles, mushrooms, veggies and tofu. Vegan appetizers include the edamame ($4.99), which I recommend with the spicy garlic flavoring, and the tempura tofu and shikishi ($5.99), served with a sweet chili sauce. Or try the pan-fried veggie gyoza ($4.99) or tofu kabobs ($5.99), flavored with lemongrass and served with sweet chili sauce. The tofu salad ($9.99) promises to be both filling and refreshing, topped with tempura tofu and crispy wonton chips served with plum dressing. There’s also the seaweed salad ($3.99) and sunomono salad with cucumber, vegan imitation
Chopfuku owners Van Tran and Thoa Hoang
crab and sweet Ponzu sauce. If you’re in the mood for soup, good luck choosing between gyoza soup ($5.99) and tomyum soup ($5.99). I tried the okra roll ($10.99), which was a satisfying combination of avocado, asparagus, cucumber, okra and brightly flavored pickled beet, wrapped in green soy paper. When is the last time you enjoyed a California roll? Vegan imitation crab, avocado and cucumber will bring you back to the first time you tried a maki roll. I can’t wait to taste the Cha cha roll ($11.99) with onion rings, asparagus, topped with tempura vegan imitation crab and lemon, drizzled with Korean sauce. Both of the entrees I sampled were delicious. The Sally Sally ($13.99), named after a favorite vegan customer, consists of stir-fried seasonal vegetables, okra, pickled beets and lotus root dressed with a sweet and savory orange teriyaki sauce, served with rice. The tofu steak ($13.99) was impressive. Marinated with a flavorful miso sauce and grilled, the texture and flavor were perfect. Served with stir-fried vegetables and rice, this simple dish was my favorite. If you’re not following Chopfuku on Instagram, remedy that immediately. Then, get in the car and travel to Taylorsville (yes, that’s right, Taylorsville) to enjoy a tasty vegan feast ❖ Chopfuku Sushi Bar and Asian Fusion 4546 S. Atherton Dr. (815 West) Ste. 107, Taylorsville 801-819-0072 Chopfuku.com Devour Utah • october 2019 43
Plate It
COURTESY PHOTO
Poutine on the ritz: Spedelli’s tops its fries with shredded mozzarella and hot gravy
Plate it
F
riends who traveled to Canada for snowboarding trips inspired brothers Mac and Sam Spedale to add poutine—a French fries and gravy concoction—to the menu at Spedelli’s, the restaurant the Spedales co-founded in Salt Lake City in 2011. Poutine has been called Canada’s national dish. Several restaurants in Quebec claim to have originated poutine in the late 1950s. Mac Spedale believes Spedelli’s is one of the first Utah restaurants to offer poutine. “It has become increasingly popular over the years,” he says.
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Spedelli’s Poutine
BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
In Canada, poutine is usually made using cheese curds and brown gravy. The Spedales begin to make poutine by placing hot hand-cut fries on a large, salad-style plate that resembles a shallow bowl. They top the fries with shredded mozzarella cheese, and then pour hot chicken-based gravy over the cheese and fries. “The gravy melts the cheese and it’s really delicious,” says Spedale. “Lots of people eat it as an appetizer and share it with friends. Others prefer to eat it as a stand-alone dish.” He adds, “People eat poutine with all kinds of other foods; it
appeals to anyone who likes French fries with a twist.” He says diners sometimes like to add meat to the poutine mixture. “They’ll add carne asada, pork or chicken. Meat changes the flavor of the poutine a little bit and adds some protein.” Poutine, he says, is now more popular than ever. ❖ Spedelli’s 2991 E. 3300 South, SLC 385-528-0181 Spedellis.com
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Devour This | Recipe
Rabbit Porchetta
Handly’s elegant rabbit porchetta uses the often-overlooked long sections of tender rabbit loin
Secure rabbit with twine spaced at 1-inch intervals to keep the shape intact during cooking.
With Briar Handly BY DARBY DOYLE PHOTOS BY BLAKE PETERSON
W
hy don’t Americans eat more rabbit? After all, rabbit and other small game were a significant component of the continent’s diverse protein palate in the early 20th century. In much of western Europe, rabbit is still a familiar dish on the table from rustic English farmhouse dinners to haute French cuisine. Most culinary historians agree that the culprit isn’t so capricious as a moral or cultural shift away from eating Peter Cottontail. Rather, the 20th-century rise of large poultry conglomerates and breeding programs that emphasized big, boneless chicken breasts took over the typical American family table. Also, economics triumphed: The higher feed required vs meat obtained ratio skewed mightily toward chicken as a superior cost-perpound producer. For the family farm larder, having a year or two of egg production prior to prepping a hen for the freezer also gave chickens a distinctly flexible appeal. Now, raising rabbit for consumption is a seeing a rebirth of sorts, especially in the U.S. backyard homesteading community. Due to their comparatively weak immune system, rabbits do not survive or thrive well on an industrial scale. Food activist Michael Pollan notes that rabbits eat abundant alfalfa (instead of energy-expensive soy or fish meal) and are legendarily, um, fecund. Also, American eaters are becoming a bit more adventurous, and restaurant chefs relish an opportunity to bring something interesting and unique to the plate. “Rabbit is delicious,” says multiple James Beard-nominee chef Briar Handly of Handle Park City (136 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-602-1155, HandleParkCity. com) and HSL (418 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-539-9999, HSLRestaurant.com). “One of my favorite dishes is rabbit 46 Devour Utah • october 2019
Handly had previously saved the lean flanks from dozens of rabbits, pressed them together with fat and seasoning, and then brined them to make a kind of rabbit strata
Handly meticulously frenches the ribs to make a miniature standing rack
legs, confit style,” he says, especially when they’re served with a bounty of late-season vegetables. In keeping with his philosophy of using the whole animal in all of his restaurants’ preparations,Handly walked me through his strategy for using the less-frequently utilized portions of rabbit: the loins, flank and bony mid-section. Crucial to all of this meticulous butchering is using a very sharp, lightweight knife. Fortunately, Corey Milligan, owner of New West KnifeWorks (which has a new shop on Main Street in Park City), had recently dropped by with a roll of knives for Handly to sample while we broke down a rabbit into its constituent parts. In addition to a rabbit loin porchetta (recipe featured here), Handly had previously saved the lean flanks from dozens of rabbits, pressed them together with fat and seasoning, and then brined them to make a kind of rabbit strata. He meticulously frenched the ribs to make a miniature standing rack. Handly also set aside the saddle and foreleg meat to potentially grind into flavorful sausage and reserved the bones to roast and to
turn into fragrant stock. Eventually, he pulled the bacon-wrapped rabbit loins out of the refrigerator where they’d been resting, then basted the rabbit porchetta in butter and herbs. The resulting dish was nuanced, unexpected and packed with the rich flavors of fall. RABBIT PORCHETTA BUTCHERING TECHNIQUE AND RECIPE Butchering small game like squirrel and rabbit is roughly similar to breaking down a chicken by following along the natural sections of joint and muscle mass. However, there are a few additional considerations. Broken rabbit bones are incredibly sharp, so it’s essential to pop the joints and separate at the ball with the point of a very sharp knife, rather than using a cleaver and risk bone fragments in your meal. The longer, leaner body mass of rabbit means that the money meat is in the hindquarters (rather than breast); that’s the portion Handly saves almost exclusively to confit for another spectacular bunny dish. The rest of the animal takes more attention to preserve the maximum amount of meat. It’s
Briar Handly’s rabbit porchetta served with roasted, grilled and pickled fall vegetables over a vegetable purée
delicate, meticulous work; using a sharp paring or boning knife is essential. Watching Chef Handly’s technique for cleaning and frenching a tiny rack of rabbit ribs is a thing of beauty—not something that I’ll be tackling in my home kitchen any time soon. A more reasonable recipe for a home cook is a streamlined version of Handly’s elegant rabbit porchetta, which uses the oftenoverlooked long sections of tender rabbit loin (which run the length of the animal parallel to the spine on each side). For the rabbit three-ways dish photographed here, the porchetta is the cross-cut round portion of rabbit served with stunning selection of roasted, grilled and pickled fall vegetables over a divine roast root vegetable purée. RABBIT PORCHETTA RECIPE Makes 2 servings as a main dish, 4 for starter Ingredients Dry rub: equal parts kosher salt and granulated sugar 4 rabbit loins, kept intact lengthwise 4-5 pieces wafer-thin sliced bacon 2 tablespoons butter 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme 1 clove smashed garlic
PROCESS Pat dry the rabbit loins with a towel. Generously coat all sides of the rabbit loins with dry rub; shake off excess. Press together all the loins lengthwise to make an evenly shaped roll. Wrap the rabbit roll with slices of bacon and cover tightly in plastic wrap to seal and compress all sides. Rest in the refrigerator for 2 hours or overnight. Remove the rabbit porchetta from plastic wrap and secure with twine spaced at 1-inch intervals to keep the shape intact during cooking. Over medium-high heat in a heavy pan, add about 1 teaspoon grape seed or other neutral-flavored oil. Sear the porchetta on all sides, rolling frequently to cook and brown evenly. After about 8 minutes, add the knob of butter to the pan and cook until melted and frothy. Add the thyme and garlic to the butter and continually baste the porchetta with the herbed butter, moving the porchetta frequently in the pan to coat evenly, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from pan and rest on a cutting board about 5 minutes before slicing into 1-inch rounds. ❖
Chef Handly’s technique for cleaning and frenching a tiny rack of rabbit ribs is a thing of beauty
Devour Utah • october 2019 47
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t s a e F r u o Y s e s n e S Spirits experts weigh in on their bucket-list bottles BY DARBY DOYLE
A
s a professional spirits writer, I’m routinely asked, “What’s your favorite whiskey?” Or, exotic cocktail, bespoke gin, rare wine, etc. My usual answer is that selecting a Top 5, let alone one pick, is an almost impossible challenge. The truth is that my choices are often even more mercurial than what I can afford or even purchase in light of Utah’s quirky liquor distribution system. It often comes down to what kind of mood I’m in at the time. This doesn’t prevent me from wondering what other Utah spirits experts would say when asked the same thing. Keeping with the “feast” theme of this month’s Devour, I queried fellow booze professionals about what bottles they’d source for their theoretical once-in-a-lifetime toast. To make the bucket-list bottle search even more over-the-top, we gave it wide latitude: money and scarcity are no object, and the spirits can be sourced anywhere in the world. Given the opportunity to snag any of these superlative specimens, we’d readily snap up a case.
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Spirit Guide
‘We serve the Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvèe on our M&W tours because the family history is so great.’
COURTESY PHOTO
—Kristen Fox
Kirsten Fox, left, on her popular Mines and Wines tour in Park City
ROYAL SPARKLERS
As festivity is practically synonymous with popping corks, we naturally sought out an example of the bubbly stuff for our booze bucket list. On her popular Mines & Wines tour pairing up Park City mining history with apropos vino selections, Fox School of Wine executive sommelier Kirsten Fox starts at The Lodges at Deer Valley’s Brass Tag restaurant with a sparkling wine toast. “We serve the Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvèe on our M&W tours because the family history is so great,” Fox says, of the winery’s 600-year legacy of Spanish winemaking, and the Ferrer family founded Sonoma’s first sparkling wine house in the 1980s. “It is a vintage sparkler from Carneros, Calif.,” and Fox notes it was “made in honor of the Spanish king and queen’s first visit to the winery in 1987.” Fox picked this pour to represent the 1868 discovery of ore in Park City and the mining boom and buzz generated in the region for decades to follow.
Fox also recommends the Gloria Ferrer estate for one of her top bubbly picks of all time: “I crave the Ferrer Carneros Cuvèe. It is one of the most amazing wines I’ve ever tasted.” She describes the experience as, “Bubbles, apricots, apples and croissant aromas and flavors,” all coming together to make it a wine worth remembering. Fox notes that at one time it was available in Utah but was discontinued (cue sad trombone). “I have one bottle left [of the selection] from long ago,” she says, “and I’m waiting for the day that I get to pop that cork!” The chauffeured mines and wines-paired stops include the Ontario Mine, Miners Hospital and Silver King Consolidated and Spiro Tunnel, and the tour concludes at the town’s old Red Light District (now lower Deer Valley Drive) with a pour of Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port, one of my own favorite sips to end a satisfying meal.
Kirsten Fox, executive sommelier and headmistress | Fox School of Wine | Park City | 435-655-WINE (9463) | FoxSchoolOfWine.com Devour Utah • october 2019 51
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Spirit Guide
ASIAN INFLUENCES
When Beehive Distilling partner and lead distiller Chris Barlow and I talked about his plans for sips this season, he joked that he’ll probably be bringing a lot of their brand’s Desolation Distilling line of canned cocktails (gin & tonic, Moscow mule and gin rickey, all available at state liquor stores) to busy hosts this year. On the opposite side of the accessibility spectrum, Barlow notes that he’s had some truly remarkable spirits experiences thanks to world travel. As the Beehive brand started with gin, it’s no surprise that Barlow suggests scoring a unique selection called Peddlers Gin from Shanghai, China. It’s not particularly rare, he notes, “But it’s hard to get a hold of without some serious travel.” Of this gin, Barlow says, “It has a crazy botanical bill and was just
COURTESY PHOTO
Distiller Chris Barlow says to keep an eye out for old bottles of 17 year Hibiki whisky. Nowadays, he says, “it’s a blend of old and new barrels and just doesn’t have the same profile as the early bottles.”
really cool to get to taste.” Barlow also recommends keeping an eye out for old bottles of 17 year Hibiki whisky. “Ever since [Hibiki] started selling too much, they changed the name and now don’t do a straight 17 year,” he says of the transition. “Now, it’s a blend of old and new barrels and just doesn’t have the same profile as the early bottles.” Barlow also had the opportunity to try a sparkly unicorn of a whisky inaccessible to most people, full stop. “When we were in Taipei, we had the pleasure of running across a 1956 single barrel from Gordon & MacPhail.” This spectacular and very rare whisky will occasionally come up for auction with bids reaching well into the tens of thousands of dollars. “Kind of nuts,” he acknowledges, “But I would love to have it.”
Chris Barlow, distiller/partner | Beehive Distilling | 2245 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake | BeehiveDistilling.com Devour Utah • october 2019 53
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54 Devour Utah • october 2019
Spirit Guide
COURTESY PHOTO
Wine expert Sheral Schowe: ‘Let it be Biondi Santi!’
TUSCANY’S FINEST
In addition to teaching wine classes and offering Wine Scholar Guild certifications in French and Italian wine, Wasatch Academy of Wine founder and sommelier Sheral Schowe leads educational wine tours in Europe every year. “I could easily write a 10-page list of my top choices,” she says of sourcing favorites from Italy, France and Spain. “But if only one bottle should be granted,” she demurs, “let it be Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The best years are considered to be 1955, 1964, 1975, so I guess the final selection would be the one that is in the best condition.” With prices upward of $6,000, Schowe says, “Recent vintages are spectacular, expensive and not easy to always find,” and she believes the prices are warranted due to the wine’s “extraordinary ability to age for decades.” “Biondi Santi is made from the Sangiovese Grosso grape variety from vineyards with a minimum age of 25 years,”
Schowe says. “The best producers age the wine in ‘botte,’ which are large Slavonian oak casks, three years or more.” Schowe has been surprised to see Biondi-Santi at her favorite wine store on 300 West (280 W. Harris Ave., SLC, 801-412-9972, ABC.Utah. gov), and notes that there are special orders available through the DABC for the most recent vintage (at $587.10). So, why this particular wine considering all the spectacular vintages Schowe’s sampled during her career? She describes enjoying it in 2014 at the Masters of Wine Symposium in Florence, Italy. “I had the opportunity of tasting wines from the top producers in Tuscany. With an idea of what would predictably be my favorite”—she’s not telling—“I tasted it back and forth, against all of the other proclaimed ‘best’ wines of Chianti Classico, Super Tuscans and Brunello di Montalcinos. When I tasted the Biondi Santi, against my Top 5, I knew I had discovered a new favorite.”
Sheral Schowe, sommelier/founder | Wasatch Academy of Wine | WasatchAcademyOfWine.com Devour Utah • october 2019 55
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Tracy Gomez: “Mezcal is my favorite spirit largely because, when I taste it, I am transported back to Oaxaca
CAROLYN HARGRAVES
Spirit Guide
MEZCAL MAGIC When assembling this list, I selfishly sought out some suggestions for my latest obsession: mezcal. I knew agave aficionado Tracy Gomez would be the perfect person to ask about very small batch bottles. Of her passion, she says, “Mezcal is my favorite spirit largely because, when I taste it, I am transported back to Oaxaca in my mind—the smell of smoke, vegetation and earth is so evocative,” especially of her first tasting trip six years ago. Gomez offered two suggestions inspired by her travels over the years. Her first pick is Fidencio Pechuga Mezcal, which is representative of pechuga’s unique process of including meat during distillation. Gomez says, “The first time I went to Oaxaca was around Thanksgiving 2013. Fidencio’s pechuga is made from guajolote (turkey), so my travelling companions and I mused that we were still having our Thanksgiving turkey even while in Mexico.” Gomez says that her special-order requests through the DABC have thus far been rejected. She muses, “For mezcal enthusiasts, it may not be a typical bucketlist bottle, but it is for me, because it was over that bottle that I first fell in love with mezcal.”
Her second suggestion is Lechuguilla mezcal from Batopilas, Chihuahua, which she tasted at Oaxaca City’s Mezcaloteca in the spring of 2019. “Mezcaloteca is a magical place,” Gomez says, “because they provide a 100% curated experience. Reservations are required [as] they limit the number of guests at a time.” Then, bartenders create a mezcal tasting completely customized to each guest after asking about their usual drink preferences for cocktails, wine, etc. “I told him I was kind of a basic bitch and like big slutty California wines,” Gomez says with a laugh. “Based on that, he poured this Lechuguilla into my glass. It has bold flavors to be sure, but also a gorgeous minerality and salinity that I’ve never experienced before.” Since Mezcaloteca sources its bottles directly from many small palenques, Gomez says many bottles have generic Mezcaloteca labels. “I’m not sure if I can find an actual bottle to ever purchase,” she says of the Lechuguilla. A sad plight for those of us who would like to replicate her experience stateside—but also an enticement to plan an Oaxaca trip ASAP.
Tracy Gomez, food and beverage manager | AC Hotel by Marriott | 225 W. 200 South, SLC | 385-722-9600 | Mezcaloteca.com Devour Utah • october 2019 57
Last Bite
Comfort Carbs
Chez Papy frites in Brussels, Belgium
Belgian waffles and frites are a bite of bliss wherever they can be found BY HEATHER L. KING
58 Devour Utah • october 2019
HEATHER KING
I
f you asked almost anyone in America what Belgium is most known for, the answers will likely include waffles and frites (and probably beer and chocolate, too). The country is a food lover’s paradise and any of these delights are easily procured in Brussels, Bruges, Ghent or one of the other charming cities that make up this small but mighty nation. A walk down the cobblestone streets of Belgium’s capital of Brussels near the Grand Place will put you close to shops with lines dozens deep waiting for hot waffles from Maison Dandoy or frites from Chez Papy or Fritland. If you’re nodding you head while picturing the North American version Belgian waffles (the ones made with lighter batter, larger squares and deeper pockets than your average Eggo), you can shake your head “no” now. To clarify, there are two different kinds of waffles in Belgium and neither are called Belgian waffles—that’s just an American breakfast food we invented! However, the yeast-raised Brussels waffle or (gaufre de Bruxelles) is certainly what our version is based on. The Liège waffle, on the other hand, is the confection that many think of when they reflect on the Belgian offering; it contains pearl sugar that caramelizes when heated. Liège waffles are traditionally served hot and plain to get the full burst of flavor of the pearl sugar. However, you can add fresh fruit, chocolate drizzle or a multitude of other toppings— including freshly whipped crème fraîche for a sweet treat virtually any time day or night. Aside from waffle shops, frites (French fries) stands are in abundance all over Belgium, too—and they are said to have been invented there despite the French part of their name. Frites are served in a cone with your choice of dipping sauces and a tiny fork. From rich mayonnaise to spicy Andalouse (slightly similar to Thousand Island dressing), there’s a sauce for every taste. You’ll also find frites served with many meals in Belgium, including the ever-popular steak and frites and mussels and frites. If you haven’t had the chance to travel to the Belgium or haven’t visited in a while, you can get your fill of both of these Belgian delicacies from Bruges Waffles & Frites
(BrugesWaffles.com) here in Utah at the storefront locations in downtown Salt Lake, Sugar House or Center Street in Provo. You’ll also find their Bruges Waffle Bus serving up Liège waffles filled with imported Belgium sugar pearls around the valley. The most popular waffle order in all locations is aptly named the “Favorite” and is topped with crème fraiche and strawberries. The Brugesmobile offers a selection of sweet and savory items from the storefront menu—like their custom-designed Morgan Valley merguez sausages using only meat from grass fed and pasture raised sheep around the Wasatch Front—at food truck events around Utah. Bruges Waffles & Frites owner Hadewych Van Vaerenbergh explains that their hand peeled and cut twice-fried Idaho frites are served with 10 housemade dipping sauces but her favorite is the Machine Gun sandwich, called “La Mitraillette” in her home country. Featured on Man v. Food, the sandwich combines their most popular frites on top of two spicy sausages covered with Andalouse sauce that’s nestled in a toasted Vosen’s baguette. Whatever your favorite Belgian food is, it’s easy to get an authentic bite anytime at Bruges Waffles & Frites. ❖
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