March Devour 2019

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Fantasy Cakes, p. 30 Devour Utah • march 2019 1

2 Devour Utah • march 2019







2020 East 3300 South Millcreek, UT 385.202.7236

2578 Bengal Blvd. Cottonwood Heights, UT (801)666-6918

4536 S Highland Drive Salt Lake City, Utah (801) 274-0223

Farmington 895 East Promontory Farmington, UT


Devour Utah • march 2019 3

The Bakery Issue


10 Dessert Heaven

Forget low carb: Utahns’ love of bakeries cannot be denied BY AIMEE L. COOK

13 Late Night Treats

Brownies! Brownies! Brownies! provides a sugar fix and hang-out spot BY ELENI SALTAS

14 Baking Under Pressure The Snowbird pastry team takes baking to the extreme BY DARBY DOYLE

16 Lights, Camera, Bake

Behind the scenes of baking fame BY SABRINA VIENNEAU

18 Gourmandise Four things you didn’t know about this bakery BY HEATHER MAY

21 Life is Grand Grand America’s La Bonne Vie BY AIMEE L. COOK

4 Devour Utah • march 2019

22 Gateways to Global Goodness A dozen artisan bakeries that bring a taste of the old country to Utah BY DEVOUR STAFF

28 Sugar, Butter and Vulnerability Adult-baking classes let strangers and friends create community over cake BY HEATHER MAY

30 Custom Cakes to Celebrate Cakes de Fleur engineers fantastical designs only limited by the imagination BY HEATHER L. KING

32 The Green Scene

Four plant-based bakeries that might change your mind about veganism BY AMANDA ROCK

34 Divine Guidance

Discover what inspires Utah’s best dessert makers BY HEATHER L. KING

38 Plate It

Big CinnaJon by Goodly Cookies BY MAYA SILVER

40 Devour This Recipe The Rose Establishment’s Chamomile Tea Cake BY AIMEE L. COOK

42 A Royal Tradition

New Orleans native shares her love of King Cakes for Mardi Gras BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ

44 Spirit Guide

Sips to pair with our favorite bakes around Utah BY DARBY DOYLE

50 Last Bite

Pastries are the ultimate recovery food for one group of athletes BY C. DERUM

Devour Utah • march 2019 5



Sabrina Vienneau is a native Marylander who married a man allergic to shellfish. Now living in Salt Lake City, she makes up for the lack of crab in her life by baking, writing and shedding tears of empathetic joy over the Great British Baking Show.

Photographers JOHN TAYLOR



Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS

Food and travel writer, cocktail historian and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle covers the gamut of the US West’s gastronomic and natural wonders. She’s a member of the Association of Food Journalists and the US Bartenders’ Guild.

MARKETING Director of Events & Marketing SAMANTHA SMITH


SALES Magazine Advertising Director Sales Director, Events Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives


Cover photo: Birds Milk Cake by Marina Pronina Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • Email Advertising contact:

Copperfield Publishing

Copyright 2019. All rights reserved


6 Devour Utah • march 2019



After starting out writing about beautiful homes and gardens in Salt Lake City, Aimee L. Cook now dabbles in subjects from food to human interest. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, she writes for several local publications.

Heather May is a passionate pie baker who serves as guest editor for this issue. A longtime Salt Lake Citybased reporter, May covers food, travel, and health for various publications. She has won numerous awards and helped create Devour Utah magazine.

Devour Utah • march 2019 7

From the Editor



Ruby Snap


Celebrate the Moments

e have a tradition at my house in which we drive through Evanston, Wyo., to the UintaWasatch-Cache National Forest to cut down our Christmas tree. We drink hot chocolate, hike through the snow, find a tree and saw it down. But the ritual really starts that morning, at the oven. I buy frozen cookies—made by RubySnap Fresh Cookies (770 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-834-6111, that pairs its unique flavors with pin-up girl names and sassy photos—and bake them before we leave. We all look forward to biting into Vivianna, made with dried mango and chunks of dark chocolate. Another long commute I look forward to repeating when the weather is right is a 14-mile round-trip family bike ride to Sugar House. The reward will be a stop at Tulie Bakery (1570 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-410-4217) for their toasted sourdough bread slathered with housemade ricotta and local jam. That’s the thing about cookies and cakes and pastries and all things doughy—they help mark the moments, big and small, that define our lives, from birthdays and weddings, to the start of a good day or the end of a fabulous meal. Or, at least they should, if you are living right! We’ve dedicated this issue to bakeries—from new ones, to vegan ones, to spots you can pair savory or sweet baked goods with a stiff drink. We ask top

8 Devour Utah • march 2019

pastry chefs where they get their inspiration. We check in with bakers who have jumped to influencer status or to must-see-TV on the Food Network. We have a spread on international bakeries offering tastes of a home far away, including a savory zaatar pastry and the intriguing-sounding Bird’s Milk cake. There’s even a story about a cake that shut down security at Adobe headquarters. What unites these stories, and the passions of the people making all these goodies, is a desire to not only create good food, but also a community. Two of the bakeries we feature donate part of their profits to good causes. Another writer gets through the winter by baking dozens of King cakes to share with family and friends on Mardi Gras. The Devour staff recently enjoyed a meal at Martine Café (22 E. 100 South, Ste. 200, SLC, 801-363-9328,, full of small plates such as arancini with pesto aioli and crab dip with crostini, along with dishes ranging from grilled-salmon salad to Beehive Cheddar barbecue burger and the grilled smoked-turkey panini. The finale was several plates of sugar-dusted beignets, with whipped cream and chocolate dipping sauce. One writer showed us how to gain more surface area for the sauces by using our forks to open the pastries like a book. We took a bite, and then another, and celebrated. ❖ —Heather May

Devour Utah • march 2019 9

Dessert Heaven

Forget low-carb: Utahns’ love of bakeries cannot be denied STORY AND PHOTOS BY AIMEE L. COOK

Buttery Croissant

Lemon Cruffin

Lone Pine Bakery 834 E. 9400 South, No. 58, Sandy 385-237-3556

Beaumont Bakery & Café 3979 S. Wasatch Blvd., Millcreek 801-676-9340

Linda Ruegner and Gin Chao are a match made in pastry heaven. The husband-and-wife team specialize in both sweet and savory croissants at their Lone Pine Bakery in Sandy, where they develop their own recipes. Their handrolled buttery, flaky croissants include plain ($2.49), ham and cheese, or turkey pesto ($3.99 each), almond or pan au chocolat ($3.99). Ruegner attended culinary school, worked in food and beverage in New York City and owned/operated a craft-services business for film productions. Chao is a self-taught baker who worked at Snowbird before running the bakery at Emigration Market. “We use basic, plain ingredients: flour, sugar, butter and eggs,” Ruegner says. “No artificial flavoring. Only flavors from nature are used here.”

10 Devour Utah • march 2019

Beaumont Bakery opened because its owner longed for a neighborhood spot that sold croissants. And while those pastries are delicious, it’s the cruffin ($5.50) that’s a standout treat at this Millcreek café. A hybrid pastry creation, the croissant dough is formed into a muffin, filled with lemon cream and then is dusted with a sugary exterior. Owner Jana Whiting opened Beaumont in the summer of 2018 after she and her husband launched Pizzeria Limone in 2011 and Aspen Hills Bread Co. in Palm Springs, in the ‘90s. “It was out of our love of croissants and the feel of a café that inspired us to open this place,” Whiting says.


The Bakery Issue

tah is blessed with a wealth of bake shops to satisfy any sweet tooth. Specialty bakeries—the ones that create niche delicacies from scratch that win loyal customers—are on the rise, rewarding diners seeking quality, uniqueness and an elevated treat worthy of indulgence. Whether you crave flaky croissants, delicate puff pastry or a sturdy waffle, these four bakeries will satisfy.


Walking Waffle

Delice Bakery & Café 2747 S. State, SLC 801-953-1910

Java Cow Café and Bakery 402 Main, Park City 435-647-7711

This classic French pastry, whose name means “a thousand leaves” for its delicate layers, is a meticulously handcrafted treat that melds together crunchy puff pastry and sweet cream to create the perfect bite. The mille-feuille ($4.55) can be found at Delice, a new bakery that opened in November 2018 by longtime French baker Jean-Jacques Grossi and pastry chef Masoud Abbasi. Grossi relocated from France to Utah in 1977 and worked in several local eateries before co-owning Bakers De Normandie with his father in 1992. He worked as a pastry chef for other establishments before becoming a bakery owner again. “I hope to just keep doing what I love,” says Grossi.

A crowd is always waiting for coffee, pastries and seasonally flavored ice cream at Java Cow Café and Bakery in Park City. If you’re cool, you’ll depart with a “walking waffle” ($4.50). Made from a dough using yeast, instead of a batter, these waffles are crunchy and sturdy enough to stand in as a handheld treat. Owner Ken Davis bought what was then the Cows ice cream shop on Main while on a ski vacation. He attended “ice cream school” and then stocked Java’s case with up to 32 flavors, using the finest ingredients and seasonal flavors— even peaches into the winter using fruit bought from a Provo orchard. “I just want people to walk out of here with a smile,” Davis says. ❖

Devour Utah • march 2019 11


BOSS 2016

Best Odgen Restaurant

2015 - 2018

2012 - 2017

210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 •

12 Devour Utah • march 2019

The Bakery Issue

Late Night Treats Brownies! Brownies! Brownies! for a sugar fix and hang-out spot






ate-night bakeries and dessert shops are all the rage across the country. And in Utah, they are an especially big hit as they give locals an alternative to loud clubs or packed bars in which to hang out with friends. At Brownies! Brownies! Brownies!, which opened in October 2018, the late-night scene is just as appealing as the treats. Here, twinkling patio lights illuminate the lot at the Sugar House eatery, inviting patrons to indulge in fresh treats until 9 p.m. on weekdays and 11 p.m. on weekends. The real party occurs on Friday nights, when a different food truck each week is on hand to offer even more eats, and customers are welcome to dine inside the shop or outside on the patio. In colder weather, a fire pit and blankets are available to keep guests warm. “I want people to feel comfortable when they’re at my shop,” owner and pastry chef Molly Kohrman says. While the bakery is new to the food scene, Kohrman, who previously worked at a nonprofit, already plans on giving back to the community. Each year, she plans to donate a percentage of the company’s proceeds to a local charity. In 2019, the charity of choice for Brownies’ first year will be the Spice Kitchen

Incubator, a program that helps refugee and disadvantaged entrepreneurs develop food businesses. What makes the shop’s brownies unique are its signature flavors. Two brownies form a sandwich around a creamy filling, which is then finished with a decadent topping. Flavors—such as fudge, churro, raspberry, mint, snickers and German chocolate—rotate weekly. Prices range from $3 for an individual brownie to $30 for a dozen. Kohrman suggests trying the cookie-dough brownie, made with a rich chocolate brownie, filled with whipped ganache and topped with a scoop of sweet-cream cookie dough and mini chocolate chips. Brownies and cookies? If you thought Brownies! Brownies! Brownies! couldn’t get any sweeter, you’d be mistaken. Here, vegan and gluten-free options are available, plus ice cream (with brownie bites) is sold by the pint. ❖ Brownies! Brownies! Brownies! 1751 S. 1100 East, SLC 385-522-2825 Devour Utah • march 2019 13


Executive chef Anna Hirst, left, and pastry assistant Sara McGinnis lead Snowbird’s pastry team

The Snowbird pastry team takes baking to the extreme


here’s no shortage of media attention surrounding difficult baking scenarios. Televised cake-baking competitions are now into multiple seasons, and social-media feeds are filled with fantastical, gravity-defying creations. But what about the baking skills required to consistently produce five-star results under some of the most challenging baking conditions in the foodservice industry? At Utah’s mountain resorts, teams create pastry perfection even with a trifecta of challenges that include high elevation, low humidity and transportation of delicate baked goods around the mountain in all kinds of weather. The Snowbird pastry team met with Devour to give readers the lowdown on how they deal with these extreme scenarios. 14 Devour Utah • march 2019



pastry perfection at 11,000 feet

“There’s no time to play around,” Snowbird’s executive pastry chef Anna Hirst says. Her team creates elaborate cakes and desserts at high altitude and moves them from the main pastry kitchen in the basement of the Cliff Lodge via the aerial tram to The Summit lodge atop Hidden Peak (at 11,000 feet). Having worked at Snowbird going on a dozen years, she’s seen it all. “So many things can go wrong, and it happens quickly,” says Hirst. “There’s no room to go back and do it again.” Air bubbles distort rolled fondant due to quick elevation gains, so they prepare all of the cake components individually and then assemble the desserts at the summit. Cakes expand and crack with increased altitude, and ice cream bubbles up more than an inch over the top of the bucket. And that’s just the elevation factor at work, says pastry assistant Sara McGinnis. “Sometimes, an afternoon

thunderstorm will come out of nowhere” as they are preparing for a big catered event, McGinnis says. “The moisture gets in everything. It can be a mess if you’re not careful.” Every day, starting before 5 a.m., Hirst’s team—consisting of a sous pastry chef and four full-time bakers—make every baked or sweet item that’s served on the mountain from scratch. From The Atrium’s famous gooey cinnamon rolls to elaborate cakes, molded chocolates and fanciful petit fours made to order for receptions at The Summit, they do it all. As a year-round resort, the crew doesn’t have an off-season. But their busiest time of year is during Oktoberfest, when the team provides baked goods for the main tent and staffs the popular Belgian waffle stand. During the 10-week festival, they make 275 German chocolate cakes, 125 Black Forest cakes, and up to 500 apple strudels, using more than 700 pounds of butter and more than 5,000 eggs. In 2018, they sold 2,400 Belgian

The Bakery Issue


Pastries at The Atrium

waffles in one weekend of the festival. “It can get nuts,” Hirst says. “Some days, everything’s melting because of the heat, and the next weekend, we’ll be trying to get our carts through a foot of snow.” Even getting their baked treats loaded onto the platform can be sketchy in winter. “Sometimes, we’re sliding everywhere” while walking the pastry carts to the tram base, says Hirst. “And there are usually people gawking at us from the chairlift” as the team transports their towering carts on the elevated bridge over Chickadee, which, up until last season, they had to navigate on snow by foot. “We’d just cross our fingers some out-of-control skier wouldn’t wipe out and slide right into us,” Hirst says. But the perks are pretty posh, too. The pastry kitchen has a back door that leads right out onto Chickadee, and employees keep a path shoveled so they can take a few ski runs during their lunch break or after their shifts are done.

The use of quality chocolates make Snowbird’s goodies stand out


The Snowbird pastry team makes all the resort’s baked goods from scratch


Wild, Wild Life

During the winter season, snowcats bring pastries to Snowbird’s mid-mountain Mid-Gad Restaurant. Meanwhile, tram rides to The Summit can be far from a smooth ride. Hirst recalls a particularly rough day when she’d delivered desserts to The Summit for an early-morning event, but the tram was shut down immediately after due to high winds. “The Mountain Ops team was super cool and sent a snowcat up for me,” because she needed to be at an event at The Cliff Lodge. “It was a crazy ride down, as you never really realize how steep Snowbird is until you are staring out the front window of the snowcat, and there is no hill to look at,” because of the steep pitch. She now brings her skis along with her deliveries as a precautionary measure. As the pastry crews at Snowbird and other mountain resorts are often the first to open the kitchens each day, the commute to work itself can be perilous. “The moose up here are pretty friendly,” Hirst says, “but you never want to mess with them.” Snowbird staff regularly sees the huge ungulates wandering on the slopes or in the employee parking lot early in the morning. As McGinnis is often the first baker clocked in before 4 a.m., her drive up Little Cottonwood Canyon can be filled with hazards. She’s on her way to work before the roads are cleared, and she frequently slows for moose, deer, bobcats and mountain lions. “Even with the challenges we have baking at altitude, sometimes, it seems like my commute is the most extreme thing I do,” McGinnis says with a laugh. Something to keep in mind (along with some thanks) the next time you are biting into a brownie at the Mid-Gad Restaurant. ❖ Devour Utah • march 2019 15

The Bakery Issue

Lights, Camera,

B A K E Behind the scenes of baking fame BY SABRINA VIENNEAU



ear that soft, sandy crunch as the mixer combines butter with sugar? See the rich, espresso-brown chocolate topped with peaks of meringue? Gorgeous, right? Now, take a bite. Oh yeah, you can’t. This bake is on your screen. If gorging yourself on two-dimensional images of baked masterpieces has whipped up your appetite and curiosity about cooking-competition shows, then you are in luck. Three Utah “star” bakers give us a peek behind the curtain of baking fame.

Making do in a rush

Fillings & Emulsions 1475 S. Main, SLC 385-229-4228 16 Devour Utah • march 2019

Adalberto Diaz

Fillings & Emulsions


Adalberto Diaz, co-owner of Fillings and Emulsions, was already a nationally recognized chef—he was named Pastry Chef of the Year in 2012 — when the Food Network came calling. In 2015, he filmed what would be the first of many competitive baking shows and made it to the finals on the Holiday Baking Championship. Since then, he’s built up quite a television resume, including Sugar Showdown and Best Bakers in America. Diaz can confirm the rush to gather ingredients is real. “You’re in a studio, they don’t have a supermarket right next to them, you have to get going with what you have.” The rush isn’t limited to ingredients. Almost every show features a time restriction, and Diaz says it is never enough. “It doesn’t give you the ability to make the best thing you can make, but that is the challenge.” At his store—which specializes in macarons, cheesecakes, tarts, breads, hand pies and more—the chefs never make a cake start to finish. Instead, they bake one day and decorate the next. Stressful time constraints aside, Diaz enjoys meeting the other chefs and judges. He still keeps in touch with other contestants, trading ideas on how to capitalize and promote their TV appearances. Diaz’s favorite show is The Great British Baking Show due to its focus on the product and not drama. Thus far, he’s stayed away from drama. “Most of the time, people think I’m nicer than what I actually am, because of what they see on TV,” he laughs. “They kind of edit it to portray me really, really nice and super sweet.”

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Cravings Alisha’s Cupcakes Customers love a winner

Alisha Nuttall was running a cupcake business out of her home when she sent an audition tape to the Food Network. Nuttall featured her identical twin sister, Angie, as her assistant and believes her lack of a storefront was made up for with the “twin thing,” securing her selection for Season 3 of Cupcake Wars in 2011. They were cut in the first round. Redemption came when they were offered an opportunity to come back and compete on Season 7. Nuttall seized the opportunity, winning the $10,000 prize, which allowed her to open her shop, Cravings Alisha’s Cupcakes, in 2012. Her winning TV bake is also a best-seller at the shop: Better Than What features a chocolate-cake base with caramel filling, whipped-cream frosting and sprinkles of housemade toffee. Winning—as compared to just being on the show— dramatically increased her business. “People really care if you

win,” she says. Not every show is equal. Nuttall spent seven, 60-hour weeks filming Holiday Cookie Builds, which aired last Christmas, and has not seen a noticeable increase in customers. The show was mostly filmed in July, making the hat and sweater worn during outdoor scenes especially uncomfortable. Shrewdly, Nuttall has used Instagram to solicit feedback on the program. The input may come in handy: She is working on her own baking reality show for YouTube. Her aim is to show more of the behind-the-scene efforts that go into baking. Her staff works hard, and she wants them to get credit for her bakery’s success. Cravings Alisha’s Cupcakes 93 S. Main, Pleasant Grove 801-899-2185


Honey, can you grab a few things at the store?

The Bakery Four Things You Didn’t Know


18 Devour Utah • march 2019



t’s been a quarter century since Gourmandise opened its doors in downtown Salt Lake City. Since then, it’s become one of Utah’s favorite spots for sweets, along with breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s grown so popular, a duplicate opened in Draper, along with a to-go spot and production kitchen. Hally Hanssen, who owns the company with her husband, Vernon, talked about its history, its appeal and its massive grocery bill.


Alisha Nuttall

Gourmandise whips, rolls and bakes through 800 pounds of butter, 200 gallons of heavy cream and 1,250 pounds of flour. In. One. Week. Those building blocks transform into 9,000 servings of cannoli, bread pudding, tiramisu, coconut macaroons, French macarons, mousse cakes, éclairs, rum balls, fruit turnovers, brownies, muffins and cookies a week.

Rise and Shine To keep up with demand, Gourmandise used to operate an oven 24-hours a day. To give their employees a break, the owners recently opened a pastry production kitchen. Shifts now run 3:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Two employees are dedicated to making croissant and kouign amann dough. It takes three days to develop the perfect flavor.

Courtney Rich


Cake by Courtney

An influencer who is for real

With more than 150,000 followers on Instagram, Courtney Rich of, is a bona-fide influencer. Getting that many people to salivate over photogenic pictures of her scratch bakes means a lot of hustle. Rich juggles responsibilities of her web presence with developing new opportunities, such as a make-your-own cake subscription service. She is continually creating new recipes, filming, blogging and responding to online questions and comments, which she does three times a day. She’s so successful, her kitchen is designed with lighting and equipment that work well with social media. It features two giant islands—one is for the camera setup and the other is her actual work station. Rich also uses TV to expand her brand. She is a frequent guest on cooking segments for local news stations and pays for

her own travel to larger TV markets. Rich’s background isn’t in food—which she freely admits. She earned a degree in broadcast journalism, so she is comfortable on camera. Still, she never rehearses, feeling that viewers can sense when things aren’t authentic. Being relatable is a key reason she believes she has so many followers. She didn’t bake her first scratch cake until she was 26, a chocolate peanut-butter recipe from Bon Appetit that tasted good but was a visual train wreck. She once opted to post a video in which she forgot to add eggs to her recipe. Rich has drafted a dozen programming ideas for her own show. “The vision is big, and I’m definitely a dreamer. There are always options for me.” ❖ @cakebycourtney on Instagram

At a Crossroads

After his family immigrated from South Africa to Illinois, Vernon Hanssen grew up working at his family’s bakery and café. He moved to Utah for the outdoors, and when he heard Gourmandise was for sell, he and Hally bought it in 2006. Hally is in charge of marketing and product development, and three of their eldest sons help wash the dishes. “We go to restaurants now, and they try to clean up their plates. They realize there are hard-working, actual humans back there dealing with the mess we make,” Hally says.

After the Hanssens updated and expanded menus, they had to decide: Should they raise prices and make it high end? The answer was, No. “We realized that everyone belongs here,” Hally says. “It’s a place for anyone to gather, no matter how frequently they can come or how much time they can spend.” She credits the welcoming atmosphere, rather than a particular food trend, for Gourmandise’s growth. “Gourmandise has been a part of a lot of people’s stories for a long time—whether it’s a gathering place before or after a Utes football game or around LDS General Conference or Christmas shopping downtown or people’s first date,” she says. “We’re just really humbled and thankful for the opportunity we’ve had to be part of people’s lives.”


Family Affair

Gourmandise the Bakery: 250 S. 300 East, SLC • 725 E. 12300 South, Draper • 1000 S. Main, SLC (To Go) • Devour Utah • march 2019 19

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La Bonne Vie translates to “the good life”


The Bakery Issue

Life is Grand A French-trained pastry chef creates “the good life” in Utah BY AIMEE L. COOK


he Grand America Hotel is a symbol of luxury. From the Italian marble floors and English wool carpets, to warm wood paneling and glass chandeliers, guests are sure to feel like VIPs—even if they are simply visiting for afternoon tea or need a box of macarons to go. Inside the 24-story, white stone landmark hotel sits the mini-French bakery La Bonne Vie, which means “the good life,” and is designed to convey old-world refinement in layers of pastels. Think rich pink drapery, a bakery case full of a rainbow’s palette of desserts, and high-gloss white cabinetry specially lit to dramatically display packages of chocolates and cookies. Executive pastry chef Xavier Baudinet, who grew up working at his family’s bakery in France, brought his talents and his personal recipes to Utah in 2013. He and his staff of 14 provide all of the baked items—including baguettes and croissants, pastries and cookies—along with gelato and ice creams to La Bonne Vie and the rest of the hotel’s restaurants and events, including the famed afternoon tea. They start their day at 2 a.m. and run two shifts to accommodate demand. They produce 45,000 macarons alone in a month. Baudinet likes to rotate desserts every three months. This spring expect to find lots of pastries featuring lemon, raspberry and rose, including Ispahan macarons, made with lemon-raspberry gelee and rose raspberry sorbet, and a lemon-flavored tiramisu. “This is a great place to work,” says Baudinet. “They never tell me, ‘No.’” ❖ La Bonne Vie The Grand America Hotel 555 S. Main, SLC 801-258-6554

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The Bakery Issue

Gateways to

G l bal Goodness

Artisan bakeries bring a taste of the old country to Utah BY DEVOUR STAFF


rench pastries might be the most common foreign food we dough-lovers eat, but it’s time to add some spice to our éclair habit. Utah is home to thriving immigrant and refugee communities—1 in 12 of us is an immigrant and about 60,000 are refugees. And while our newer arrivals hail from all over the world, some things are universal: A yearning for a taste of home and a desire to share it with strangers. Let’s face it, food is an easy entrée to learning about other cultures. Each of these bakery owners has a delicious story to tell—so be sure to ask. Then, open your senses to the sweet or savory flavors, textures and aromas of the old country.

22 Devour Utah • march 2019

t he

Devour Dozen


Twenty-nine years ago, Petra Vigil, owner of Petra’s Backstubchen, brought her baking books from her hometown in Klinding, Germany, to Layton, Utah. For years, she made strudels, cakes and cookies following the old country recipes for friends and family. Once her children were raised, she and her husband, Joseph, decided to rent a commercial kitchen and begin selling her German pastries at farmers markets from Logan to South Jordan. Today, Utahns seek out Petra’s Bachstubchen apple strudel, cherry streuselkuchen, honey cookies, rhubarb cake, butter stollen, cheesecake, pretzels and a dozen more items–all emblazoned with the cheery illustration of Petra on the labels. And aside from her hard-to-comeby rhubarb cake, it’s Petra’s traditional Bienenstich (Bee Sting) that patrons clamor for regularly. The Bee Sting starts with a sweet yeast dough that’s drenched with homemade German vanilla pudding and topped with caramelized sliced almonds that’s sold by the slice ($5) or sheet cake ($50). You can find Petra’s German-baked goods year-round at all five locations of Lee’s and at The Store in Holladay. (Heather L. King)


Petra’s Backstubchen Multiple locations 801-620-0253



Rita Magalde isn’t Greek, but she bakes like she is. She grew up in North Carolina where she worked for a Greek family for many years. Completing odd jobs led to learning how to create some of their family recipes, including the art of making authentic baklava using 45 layers of dough. In 2008, Rita tweaked some recipes and launched Sheer Ambrosia Bakery out of her home, after a divorce and with a desire to earn an income from home while raising her two kids as a single parent. After much success, Magalde took the next leap and rented a commercial kitchen in 2013. For the next three years, she provided baklava to local businesses such as Harmons Grocery and several Crown Burgers and Olympus Burgers throughout the valley. Facing increased overhead costs, Magalde moved operations back into her home kitchen in 2016. Sales are still booming. A gift box of 12 pieces is $36 online. “Baklava,” says Magalde, “is more than a treat to me, it is art.” (Aimee L. Cook) Sheer Ambrosia Bakery Multiple Locations Devour Utah • march 2019 23

The Bakery Issue

Steak &


Cheese Pie



Sagato Bakery & Café 44 W. 7200 South, Midvale 385-557-1728

La Espiga Dorada Bakery 2292 W. 5400 South, Taylorsville 801-809-6512 LaEspigaDoradaBakery.Business.Site

What began as a way to earn extra income for Loi and Tualagi Sagato has turned into a brick-and-mortar business where the couple and their five children can share their love of Polynesian foods. The family opened their bakery in 2018, after selling their creations at local Asian food stores and through their catering company for more than 20 years. Sweet and savory treats line the cases, from lamingtons ($3.50)— a vanilla cake dipped in chocolate, sprinkled with flaky coconut and filled with cream—to a tender steak and cheese pie with a light, flaky puff pastry top ($5.25). A visit to their storefront is a delicious experience in Pacific American fusion. They import L&D soda from New Zealand and Watties tomato sauce (a variation on ketchup), which trigger nostalgia for certain customers. “When you look at our desserts, nothing is ever [completely] uniform and we are OK with that,” daughter Verona Sagato says. “Everything is made from love, created by what we grew up on. We sell homemade food in a business setting.” (Aimee L. Cook)

24 Devour Utah • march 2019

La Espiga Dorada Bakery specializes in beautiful cakes for any occasion. Their colors, designs and intricacy makes them charming to look at and delightful to eat. While the bakery’s more traditional cakes are prime examples of artfully crafted pillars and bright flowers, the cakes that immediately grab you are the playful unicorn cakes. In a variety of styles, these cakes sport colorful horns and rainbow manes, as well as glamorous eyelashes. “Sometimes they are my ideas, and sometimes people have their own ideas. We work with the customers,” says manager and chef Alejandra Guzman. “They come in a variety of different flavors, but the tiramisu is my favorite.” Guzman’s designs are done beautifully and quickly. The prices start at $28 for a 10-slice cake, and range from there. Call ahead for pricing and availability. (Caitlin Hawker)

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It’s fitting that Doki Doki, a dessert-only café, means “heart beat” in Japanese. The desserts, says Irie Cao, are made with love. Her shop offers Japanese-style crepes, crepe cakes and hand-rolled ice cream and frozen yogurts. It all started when Cao went to visit a friend in California. She tried the crepes and fell instantly in love. “My friend asked if there was a shop like this in Utah,” she says. “Why not open a shop and bring these crepes to Utah?” The crepes ($6.99) feature enticing fillings such as strawberry, cheesecake, Nutella, kiwi, mango, cream cheese and caramel. All come with ice cream, too. The crème brûlée crepe—covered with sugar and caramelized for a spectacular and original finish— may be the best. The crepe cakes ($29 for a 7-inch cake) are another showstopper. They’re made with 20 layers of the paper-thin crepes and layered with a variety of flavors, including matcha, peach, key lime and coconut. “Everything is very unique, and very original,” Cao says, noting that she uses organic, high quality ingredients. “I don’t like the cakes to sit in the fridge for too long. I want everything to be fresh.” (Caitlin Hawker)


Brûlée Crepe


Doki Doki Dessert Cafe 249 E. 400 South, SLC 385-229-4339


Kyung’s Bakery is a hybrid, serving Korean breads and French pastries. But no matter the ethnic traditions behind them, all of the goodies here are made to be healthier than at other bakeries. Located in the heart of downtown Murray, Kyung’s Bakery prides itself on baking low-sugar, low-sodium goods. Made from scratch and in-house, the cheesecake is almost too pretty to eat—almost. The cake is rich without being overpowering, and the topping, while thick, tastes surprisingly light. It is a nice alternative to the sugary taste of most traditionally made cheesecakes. “I’ve been in Utah for 20 years—in Salt Lake and Park City—and I noticed that there weren’t many low-sugar bakeries. I wanted to bring one to Utah,” says Miky Ung Myers, the owner and head baker. “Here, a lot of other bakeries are very sweet. I use low-sugar and low-sodium to make everything from scratch. Healthy and happy, that’s our motto.” (Caitlin Hawker) Kyung’s Bakery 153 E. 4370 South, Murray 801-904-3849


Gilberto and Norma Rodriguez run this charming traditional Mexican bakery on the west side of Salt Lake City. The small shop’s colorful exterior draws you in, and once inside, you are greeted with an array of pastries displayed in a glass case. Hailing from the city of Cordoba in the Mexican state of Veracruz, Gilberto says he was “always making bread from a very young age.” Having grown up with this skill, it prompted him to open this shop. The pineapple cake, which comes in a thick slice for just 80 cents, is one of the most popular items. This fluffy, light pastry features a thin layer of pineapple filling between perfectly baked vanilla angel-food cake slices. The shop’s other pastries are also a safe bet. Try the conchas, a Mexican sweet bread named for their round shape and broken shell-like topping. (Anna Kaser) Colonial Bakery 775 S. 900 West, SLC 801-688-9855

Devour Utah • march 2019 25

The Bakery Issue


Siblings Cory, Devin and Ross Hruska were concerned when they moved from Houston, Texas, to Provo to attend Brigham Young University: No kolaches. The pillowy pastries from the Czech Republic in the shape of a wheel with fruits, nuts or meat sitting in the center, were a big part of their childhood. “There is a large Czech population in Houston,” says Cory, “and we found ourselves really missing the kolaches.” They found their great-grandmother’s recipe and started baking for themselves. Ross wanted to open a bakery, and now they have two locations: in Provo and Sugar House. It’s been so successful they are planning a third (in American Fork). For a savory snack, the best option is the bacon, egg and cheese kolache ($3)—classic American breakfast ingredients, but with a Czech flair. There’s also pulled pork (in Provo, only), ranchero-style and sausage and gravy. If you like sweet, try the raspberry cream, made with a traditional cream cheese, cottage cheese, sugar and egg mixture ($1.75). Other choices include maple pecan as well as cinnamon. (Anna Kaser)

Zaatar Pastry


Hruskas Kolaches 2030 S. 900 East, SLC, 385-309-4379 434 W. Center Street, Provo, 801-623-3578


Karim Bakery may appear to be a specialty store offering sweet snacks and grocery items from the Middle East. But keep walking to the back of the shop to find a wonderful repository of delectable pastries, both savory and sweet. Owners Karim and Zahara Alhasnawy fled Iraq in 2006 for a refugee camp in Syria. After two years, they were granted asylum and moved to Utah in 2008. Karim had been a veterinarian in his home country but was unable to practice in the United States due to different licensing requirements. Instead, his family began baking. They’ve grown their bakery from a simple pita bread factory to one that offers a plethora of fresh pastries. Zaatar, a pastry spread with olive oil, sesame seeds, sumac, thyme, oregano and more, is a simple concept with very complex flavors ($1.50). While in the shop, try the baklava, sesame cookies and shwarma as well. (Anna Kaser) Karim Bakery 2575 S. State, South Salt Lake 801-645-4533

26 Devour Utah • march 2019


Gordon and Shannon Jung opened the first Korean bakery in Utah in 2017. Located inside the Chinatown Supermarket, Moon Bakery offers an impressive assortment of fresh Korean baked breads, red bean mochi, cakes, rolls and bingsoo, a dessert made with shaved ice that’s topped with fresh mango and sweet red beans. Gordon Jung acquired his baking and business experience while working for six years in a famous bakery in South Korea. After moving to Utah, he wished to recreate the traditional baked goods of his homeland to share them with those who live here. The Mochi Bread ($1.99) is one not to miss. Still warm from the oven, the soft, delicate sweet roll is baked around a housemade red bean mochi cake, made of rice flour. It’s gluten-free. (Jen Hill) Moon Bakery 3390 S. State, Ste. 20, South Salt Lake 801-263-0404

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Bird’s Milk




“I went to several different Indian restaurants but never felt like it would suffice my desire for ‘homestyled’ food,” Vini Joseph says, explaining why she created her catering company, Café India SLC. When it comes to baked goods, Joseph says she was disappointed with the quality and taste of cakes available from local bakeries. She desired more flavorful cakes with a lighter texture, like the desserts she enjoyed while growing up in India. A self-taught baker, Joseph first introduced her cakes to customers through the Spice Kitchen’s “Spice to Go” desserts program, where they were a hit. The texture of Café India SLC’s cakes are moist and light, layered with fresh cream, in a variety of flavors, such as pineapple, black forest chocolate, or strawberry. The tres leches cake ($30 for a 9-inch round, two-layer cake) is not only made with three types of milk but is also flavored with coffee. “One could easily eat several slices in a sitting, and still have room for another,” Joseph says. Café India SLC now accepts specialty cake orders for any occasion, including catered events and gatherings. (Jen Hill) Café India SLC 801-819-4911


Centuries ago, Slavic legend claims that young maidens asked potential suitors to fetch them some “bird’s milk,” as a test of devotion. This mystical ingredient became the name of a very sought-after traditional Russian cake now being made at the family-owned Kievan Rus Bakery in Saratoga Springs. Lead baker Tatyana Khorishko describes Bird’s Milk Cake, or ptichye moloko, as a “Russian fairy tale cake.” It consists of whipped mousse in a moist, sponge cake, topped with dark chocolate ganache. The bakery also serves other Russian and Ukrainian treats, including the medovik cake, a multi-layer honey cake, and the slastyona, a sponge cake made with cream, walnuts and almonds with glazed apples on top. Cakes are baked to order and can be made in different sizes or as pastries. They are $32 per 35 ounces. (Jen Hill) ❖

Kievan Rus Bakery 385-368-3854 Devour Utah • march 2019 27

The Bakery Issue

Elisa Barber Crockatt, center right, works with students in her adultbaking class

Sugar, Butter and

Vulnerability Adult baking classes let strangers and friends create community over cake


ome on down, my loves,” Elisa Barber Crockatt says, greeting us like family who’ve entered her home, instead of customers who have come to her cozy shop in search of how to bake. The three of us follow and are whisked into a world of butter, sugar and flour, chocolate and whipped cream. We’ve entered the classroom kitchen of The Baking Hive, a Millcreek bakery that sells cakes, cookies and unique treats like the Dirty Jonny, and also hosts baking parties and classes. Crockatt, owner and head chef, will 28 Devour Utah • march 2019

teach us how to bake a triple-layer chocolate cake, cover it in buttercream frosting and decorate it in ganache, like a professional. Yes, we’ve come to hone a skill. But we are also here for the fun—to meet new people or make new memories with long-time friends. Think of it as those adult painting classes that mix technique with entertainment. But at the end of class, we get to eat our creations. Crockatt opened The Baking Hive after studying at a culinary school in Ireland and working with top pastry


chefs in London. “I want to pass on my love of baking to people,” she tells us, as we stand at attention at our mixers, aprons on, spatulas in hand. She’s shared her talents on TV cooking shows, through baking birthday parties for kids, classes and private events, including corporate events and ladies’ nights. She recently taught GE marketing executives from around the world how to bake. The kids who take her baking classes and leave with a homemade cookbook were first fans of TV baking shows. The six-week courses for kids range

The Baking Hive in Millcreek

Baking Hive owner Elisa Barber Crockatt

Chocolate cake batter

Building the triple layer cake

from $144 to $180, depending on the age. Individual adult classes are $60. Crockatt also offers private classes to parties of five or six. While we cream butter and sugar, measure ingredients and pour them into pans, we share why we’re there. Crockatt sums it up for us: Luxury now means having experiences. “Everything’s moving toward hands-on experiences, and also those forgotten skills. For so many years, we had mass production, or we had cake mixes. Now it’s moving to, ‘I want to learn. How did my grandmother do that?’” We do learn: That the key to mixing

Buttercream frosting applied with an offset spatula

batter is to begin and end with dry ingredients, how to apply buttercream frosting with an off-set spatula on a turntable, and how to use a knife and the right pressure points to move the cake to a platter. We ask questions and make mistakes, which Crockatt deftly corrects. In between, she allows us to lick the spatula and makes us laugh. Friends Brooke Hathaway and Jennie LaFortune are there because they know Crockatt, and, as LaFortune says, the class is a good reason to “get together and see each other in the dark, dreary months of winter.”

Decorative ganache completes the cake

Of course, they could have met for a warm drink. But there’s something magical about creating together, Hathaway says. “You kind of are in a little bit of a vulnerable state when you’re creating something. I think that whisper of vulnerability connects you with other people and allows you to create a community.” Even if it’s just for a couple of hours. ❖ The Baking Hive 3362 S. 2300 East, Millcreek 801-419-0187 Devour Utah • march 2019 29

The Bakery Issue

Custom Cakes To

Celebrate Cakes de Fleur engineers fantastical designs only limited by the imagination


f you’re a fan of Food Network, you’ve likely been wowed by the sugar-spun magic that airs on Cake Wars, Ace of Cakes, Ridiculous Cakes, Cake Masters—and the list goes on. So how do these bakers come to build such elaborate cakes out of simple batter and frosting? In Utah, Cakes de Fleur is in a position to answer that question. The bakery opened its doors in 2004 after owner and founder Laurlee Morrison left a career as a software engineer. Since then, she’s built a strong portfolio of corporations, celebrities and those looking for outrageous and delicious custom cake creations—ranging in size and scope that’s limited only by the imagination. In 2018, Adobe commissioned Cakes de Fleur to replicate its entire Lehi campus in cake. The final piece measured 4 x 8 feet, took six people to lift and served 500 people. Morrison’s engineering background helped her build the structure and coordinate the logistics behind the Adobe cake. “We couldn’t fit it through our bakery door so we had to make all the pieces in the kitchen and build it in our warehouse to get it out,” Morrison recalls. “We did a preliminary board to make sure it would fit in the truck, in the doors, and we had three routes mapped out at Adobe of how 30 Devour Utah • march 2019


to get the cake in the building. We ended up shutting down security at the front doors, taking out the glass and going down the stairs. We all felt like movie stars because people were videoing it. It was totally fun!” While Adobe was a feat in size, other cakes stun visually— both inside and out. A cake created for television chef Sandra Lee at a Sundance party was a realistic tree trunk design on the outside that featured a geometric red and black checkerboard inside to continue the woodsy motif. Geode cakes are also a trend that Morrison has been asked to replicate, while others want corporate logos or icons. ordered an upright purple rocket ship surrounded by hundreds of cupcakes. The rocket required some thoughtful engineering because of the tiny touchpoints at the base of the cake. “You can’t have dimension without structure,” explains Morrison. “The structural part of this is really exciting to me.” Many clients expect Morrison and her director of operations and team of bakers and decorators to develop an entire concept, but IMDb had their own ideas on how to celebrate an executive’s 50th birthday. The movie and TV website’s graphic-design department envisioned an 80-pound cake that included edible gold leaf, gum paste snowflakes and exacting

dimensions. It then looked to Cakes de Fleur to bring it to the table. It’s created historic landmarks such as the Eiffel Tower, a replica of the University of Utah football stadium with the purchasing couple sitting in their season ticket seats, and theme cakes such as a Jack Daniel’s whiskey barrel. Over the years, Cakes de Fleur has perfected the art of matching corporate colors in frosting—even adjusting for fading due to light and air exposure. They are also sticklers for following copyright laws. Morrison will either contact companies for written approval (she’s got a one-time-use-only letter from Sony for a PlayStation console cake) or incorporate the actual licensed product into the cake to remain in compliance. No detail is overlooked. Although the Cakes de Fleur team loves the opportunity to get creative, time is always against them she says. “At the end of the day, it’s just cake and frosting. The biggest challenge is that you don’t have a lot of time to pull them together. You can be really prepared with planning and structure, but nobody wants a cake that’s been sitting around for a couple of weeks.” For the past 15 years, Cakes de Fleur has been thrilled to help businesses and individuals mark monumental dates and occasions with works of art built around time-tested batter flavors and buttercream frosting—the medium they prefer most. Whether it’s a meticulously detailed henna cake to celebrate a birthday or a U.S. Marshal cake to announce a new job, few ideas are beyond the skills of Cakes de Fleur—and your taste buds will concur. ❖

(801) 466-9827 | HARBORSLC.COM | 2302 E PARLEY’S WAY SLC, UT

Cakes de Fleur 235 W. Plymouth, Ste. 2, SLC 801-474-2253

Devour Utah • march 2019 31

The Bakery Issue


Surrender Four plant-based bakeries that might change your mind about veganism



hen Salt Lake’s vegan scene took off, 100 percent plant-based bakeries weren’t far behind. Utahns have a sweet tooth and have embraced this new generation of bakeries with open arms—and mouths. What’s not to love? You get the same sweet treats with none of the cholesterol. Whether you have a sweet tooth for glazed doughnuts or cinnamon rolls, you can find a vegan version. If you thought eschewing eggs, milk or butter would slow down these intrepid bakers, you’re in for a treat.

Cinnamon roll topped with raspberries and almonds With 28 locations in North America, Cinnaholic is changing minds about cinnamon rolls. Cinnaholic won big on Shark Tank, surprising the judges with delicious cinnamon rolls that were shockingly 100 percent plant-based. Salt Lake got their own Cinnaholic franchise in 2017, thanks to owners Kurtis and Tierra Nielsen. Go crazy with your choice of flavored frosting and add as many toppings you can fit on your cinnamon roll (and in your mouth). A basic roll starts at $4.75, flavored frosting is an extra 25 cents, and each topping is 50 cents more. Opt for cream cheese frosting topped with fresh raspberries and almonds ($6). The delectable cream cheese is made with Tofutti vegan cream cheese, some vegan butter and lots of sugar. The tart raspberries and almonds balance the sweetness and richness. Cinnaholic 358 S. 700 East, Ste D, SLC 385-415-2744

Lemon bar

Blueberry lavender doughnut

One look at the pastry cases and you’ll understand why City Cakes & Cafe is the most popular spot for vegan and gluten-free pastries. There is something for everyone here: cute decorated cupcakes, cookies, tarts, scones, gorgeous cakes and more. One treat you cannot miss is the lemon bar ($2.99). It doesn’t look as fancy as the others, but it packs a punch of sweet and tangy Meyer lemon flavor. The soft custard is remarkable; who would have guessed that flaxseeds could replace eggs so well? Nanette Wessels opened the first shop in 2010 and now boasts two retail locations and a production facility. You can also find her vegan goodies at Harmons and Whole Foods stores.

Whether you’re into yeast-raised doughnuts, cake doughnuts, little donuts, or regular size doughnuts—The Big O Doughnuts is your destination. This family-run business opened in 2015 and has become more popular with every delicious-looking Instagram post. Vibrantly colored glazes made from real food set this doughnut shop apart from others. Plus, even the mini marshmallows topping the S’mores doughnut are plant-based. The animal-based gelatin in regular marshmallows is replaced by tapioca syrup and starch. But the blueberry lavender doughnut ($2.95)—a pretty purple color with specs of blueberry topped with a sprinkling of real lavender—is one of the most popular treats on the menu.

City Cakes & Cafe 1860 S. 300 West, Ste. D, SLC, 801-359-2239 192 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-572-5500

32 Devour Utah • march 2019

The Big O Doughnuts 248 W. 900 South, SLC 385-770-7024

Croissant aux Amandes What happens when a classically trained French pastry chef goes vegan? She opens Passion Flour, Utah’s only vegan patisserie. Jessica Davies, who trained at The French Pastry School in Chicago, blessed Salt Lake City with her vegan French pastries in 2015. Here you will find croissants so buttery and flaky it’s hard to believe they’re plant-based. Since Davies spent seven years perfecting the recipe for her vegan croissants, she doesn’t give away her delicious secrets easily. Just know she uses an unnamed vegan butter. The kouign amann ($2.50) is mind-blowing, like a little croissant blossom flavored with mandarin orange zest and coated with caramelized organic cane sugar. And the croissant aux amandes ($4.50), filled with decadent almond crème, topped with sliced almonds and a dusting of powdered sugar, is pastry perfection. ❖ Passion Flour Patisserie 165 E. 900 South, SLC 385-242-7040

Devour Utah • march 2019 33

The Bakery Issue

Divine Guidance What inspires Utah’s best dessert makers? Reading, travel and chocolate

e all seek inspiration in our daily work and life and often look to others to spark our next big idea. So, who or what do Utah’s best bakers and pastry chefs consult when they need inspiration for their next sugary confection or spongy dough? We chatted with three talented women who share their thoughts on their inspired creations.

Romina Rasmussen

Romina Rasmussen Les Madeleines

“I find much inspiration by traveling,” explains Romina Rasmussen, owner and pastry chef at Les Madeleines, whose French-style café celebrated 15 years in business this past December. “Whether it’s my annual trip to Paris or somewhere new. Traveling clears my head, and I find that getting away gets the creative juices flowing.” Rasmussen recalls that the “madeleines” in the Les Madeleines logo are based on a railing she saw at Le Bon Marché in Paris. She is adept at finding inspiration in things she experiences on every trip, whether it’s a flavor combination that she’s encountered or a bit of architecture. Finally, Rasmussen takes time to actively hone her craft. “I try to take classes every year to refresh my skills and sometimes pick up new techniques I can apply at Les Madeleines.”



34 Devour Utah • march 2019


Les Madeleines 216 E. 500 South, SLC 801-355-2294

801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South |

20 1 8

serving breakfast, lunch and dinner 2005 E. 2700 SOUTH, SLC FELDMANSDELI.COM @ FELDMANSDELI OPEN TUES - SAT TO GO ORDERS: (801) 906-0369 Devour Utah • march 2019 35

The Bakery Issue

Shirley Butler

Shirley Butler Tupelo


Tupelo’s pastry chef Shirley Butler credits her formative years with shaping her into the chef she is today. Growing up in the United Kingdom, she consumed a steady diet of Jamie Oliver on TV while her family’s potager garden supplied ample amounts of fresh vegetables, herbs and fruits from the orchard. At 18, Butler moved to Paris where she witnessed full-scale dessert presentations at their finest. Today, she’s inspired by the vast amount of world-class chocolate made here in Utah that manifests in elegant and intriguing dessert combinations at Tupelo—including chocolate macarons spiked with Guinness, Irish whiskey and citrus all throughout the winter months.

Caroline Hargraves

Caroline Hargraves The Daily

As head baker at Ryan Lowder’s newest restaurant The Daily, Caroline Hargraves says, “I just want to make people fat and happy!” Her ambition is regularly fueled by constant consumption of food media, whether that’s her growing collection of cookbooks or podcasts such as KCRW’s Good Food and The Bon Appetit Foodcast, in addition to a recent wave of food publications like Toothache, Ambrosia, Cherry Bombe and Sift. The community of professionals and home bakers she’s found via Instagram allows her to gain insight into flourishing food communities such as San Francisco, Chicago, New York and Los Angeles. “They’re a tremendous source of inspiration and encouragement,” she says. And they manifest themselves daily in her gloriously scored loaf creations available from the bakery. ❖


36 Devour Utah • march 2019

Tupelo 508 Main, Park City 435-615-7700

The Daily 222 S, Main, Ste 140, SLC 385-322-1270


Contemporary Japanese Dining


18 MARKET STREET • 801.519.9595

Steampunk, antiques, original artwork

by John Cottam

Lower Level Center Court Trolley Square Devour Utah • march 2019 37

The Bakery Issue

Plate it

The Big CinnaJon Goodly Cookies


501 E. 900 S. SLC | (385) 202-7167 |

Your Neighborhood Diner!

Cottonwood Heights Cafe 7146 Highland Dr. | 801-947-0760 Open Wed-Mon for Breakfast & Lunch Closed Tuesday | 7:00am-2:30pm 38 Devour Utah • march 2019

New Location!

Goodly Cookies co-owner Brandon Plewe


hen Brandon Plewe and his college roommate, Clay Rockwood, attended the University of Utah in the early aughts, they lamented the lack of available treats after 9 p.m. But nothing came of the idea— immediately, anyway. Fast forward to 2008, when Plewe was diagnosed with cancer. The experience triggered a revelation: “I wanted to be a part of something that I’m proud of and gives back.” That something turned out to be his dorm-room dream. After he recovered, Plewe joined Rockwood in tinkering with recipes for chewy-onthe-outside, gooey-on-the-in chocolatechip cookies. Their quest was simple yet sublime: “The best cookie you’ve ever had,” as Plewe puts it. In July 2017, Goodly officially began selling and delivering cookies throughout the Salt Lake area until 11 p.m. on weekdays and 1 a.m. on weekends. In addition to referencing quality, the name Goodly also nods to a larger mission. One percent of every cookie sale is donated to the Huntsman Cancer Institute, where Brandon is also a fundraiser by day. And, at the night’s end, Goodly delivers extra unsold cookies to hospitals throughout Salt Lake.

Big CinnaJon

‘Next level’ treats: From chocolate chip to white-chocolate raspberry

The Big CinnaJon is a recent addition to the Goodly lineup. The cookie pays tribute to Huntsman Institute founder Jon Huntsman Sr., who passed away in 2018. “Jon would come through the cafeteria and break off pieces of cookies, so you’d know when he’d been through,” remembers Plewe. Huntsman’s favorite was the snickerdoodle, which Goodly makes “next-level” with its own housemade cinnamon chips—precious shards of concentrated cinnamon flavor. The other Goodly twist on the snickerdoodle is its signature height; some Goodly cookies tower as tall as 2 inches at center. These feats of cookie engineering are achieved through perfected flour-sugar-butter ratios, dough refrigeration, and other sworn secrets. Given their epic proportions, Plewe advises that Goodly cookies be shared—and enjoyed with a glass of milk. In February, Goodly moved from its temporary location at Amour Café, to its own shop west of the U campus, where its story began. After one bite of the Big CinnaJon, it’s impossible to disagree with Plewe’s exuberant observation: “This is an awesome time to be alive in Utah if you love cookies.” ❖

Goodly Cookies | 434 S. 900 East, SLC 385-743-0022 | Devour Utah • march 2019 39

Devour This | Recipe


Chamomile Tea Cake Gluten-free, vegan tea cakes at The Rose Establishment hit the spot



40 Devour Utah • march 2019

hen you can’t find that perfect spot to connect over tea or pastries, you create one. At least that is what the owner of The Rose Establishment, Erica O’Brien, did in 2010. Not having any restaurant experience did not scare her away—O’Brien was a photographer by trade—she grew up with entrepreneurial parents who guided her in both balancing the books and the building remodel. “I just wanted a place I could go that was super inspiring, felt really comfortable and safe and had really great tea and coffee,” O’Brien says. “My dad and I searched for a building in Salt Lake, and it needed to be a cool vintage space that we could restore together.” O’Brien has several personal dietary restrictions, so offering gluten-free and vegan options was important to her. She understands the need to feel comfortable eating out. “We didn’t set out to be a vegan, gluten-free or a local-centric restaurant,” says Shaylee Syme, general manager. “We just do what feels right and listen to what our community tells us. We have gluten-free tea cakes, cookies, and muffins on a rotating basis, [and] our entire brunch menu can very easily be made gluten free. We have a power-duo in the bakery, Casey Van Portfleet, and Devin Lindley, balancing boundless creativity and perfect execution.” The Rose Establishment recently received its beer and wine liquor license. The bakers are creating an evening pastry menu so patrons can continue to purchase drinks after the kitchen closes.

Chamomile Tea Cake INGREDIENTS ¾ cup butter, room temperature 6 tablespoons cream cheese Zest of 1 lemon ½ cup + 2 tablespoons sugar ¾ cup honey 5 eggs, at room temperature ¼ cup milk 2 cups gluten-free flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup + 2 tablespoons dried chamomile (ground in a blender or spice grinder) GLAZE 1 tablespoon chamomile Juice of 1 lemon 5 dashes Crybaby Bay Leaf Bitters Powdered Sugar PROCESS

Butter a 9x4 loaf pan and line the bottom with a sheet of parchment paper. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a mixer, cream the butter, cream cheese, lemon zest, sugar and honey together until

completely smooth and fluffy. Scrape sides of mixing bowl and add eggs, one at a time, scraping sides as needed. Add milk and mix until combined. Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, and chamomile together. Add the dry ingredients to the mixer and mix until just combined. Scrape batter into prepared pan. Bake for 40-50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool on a baking rack before removing from the pan and glazing. For the glaze, add chamomile to 1 cup of hot water and steep for at least 10 minutes. Combine tea with lemon juice and bitters and whisk in powdered sugar until you have your desired consistency. Pour glaze over tea cake and spread evenly with spoon or spatula. ❖

The Rose Establishment 235 S. 400 West, SLC 801-208-5569

We have moved to the newly restored to glory Historic Eagle Building.

Italian Cuisine 404 South W Temple ´ Salt Lake City, Utah 801-364-8833 ´ Devour Utah • march 2019 41

A Royal


The cherry, citrus, and mint notes of our red blend are the real Tempest.


New Orleans native shares her love of King Cakes for Mardi Gras

Available at State Liquor stores. If you don’t see it, ask for it!

59 West Center Street Cedar City UT 435-867-9463 |

Heavenly Breakfast, Lu

nch & Brunch

serving beer, wine & fresh squeezed mimosas

2577 East BengAl Blvd. 801.542.0797 7:30am - 2:30pm 7 days a week 42 Devour Utah • march 2019

aking—in particular, baking King Cakes—gets me through the long winter. Growing up in Cajun culture as I did meant there was always a celebration around the corner with special foods to mark the occasion. From January to March, I would have made several dozen of the cakes that Carnival revelers bake, share and eat to celebrate the Mardi Gras season. Watching the second rise of the cake-like bread dough while listening to a “second line” jazz band is typical in my kitchen until Mardi Gras, which is March 5 this year. While I’m not a great baker by any means, King Cake—that I can do! Sprinkling sugar on top of the cake at the end is a mess that my son is all too happy to get involved in because once it dries we can slice it up and have us a party! The best part? Seeing who is lucky enough to get the baby hidden in the cake. A little history: The King Cake season often starts Jan. 6 to commemorate the day the three kings visited baby Jesus— thus the plastic baby hidden in the cake. The cake-making ends right after the big feast of Mardi Gras, because it’s the start of the great fast of Lent. As a child growing up in New Orleans, this was too good to be true. Cake every day for 40 days! The cake is like a gigantic cinnamon roll formed into the shape of a ring, representing a king’s crown, and is traditionally decorated with three brightly colored sugars— purple symbolizing justice, green for faith and gold for power. Whoever gets the baby inside the cake is “king for the day” and has the pleasure of bringing the next King Cake. I’m sharing my recipe so you can give it a go—and create a new tradition to combat the winter doldrums.

The Bakery Issue

Traditional King Cake


COLORED SUGARS Green, purple and yellow food coloring 12 tablespoons sugar, divided KING CAKE ICING 2 cups powdered cane sugar 2 tablespoons water

PROCESS FOR CAKE Pour the warm water into a small shallow bowl, and sprinkle yeast and 2 teaspoons sugar into it. Allow the yeast and sugar to rest for three minutes, then mix thoroughly. Set bowl in a warm place for 10 minutes or until yeast bubbles up and mixture almost doubles in volume. Combine 3 ½ cups of flour, remaining sugar, nutmeg and salt, and sift into a large mixing bowl. Stir in lemon or orange zest. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture, sour cream and milk. Add egg and egg yolks and, using a wooden spoon, slowly combine dry ingredients into the yeast/milk mixture. When mixture is smooth, beat in 8 tablespoons butter, a tablespoon at a time, and continue to beat 2 minutes or until dough can be formed into a medium soft ball.


INGREDIENTS ½ cup warm water 2 packages active dry yeast ½ cup cane sugar, divided 3 ½ to 4 ½ cups sifted flour, divided 1 teaspoon nutmeg 2 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon lemon or orange zest 2 tablespoons sour cream ½ cup warm milk 1 egg 5 egg yolks 9 tablespoons softened butter, divided 1 ½ teaspoons cinnamon 1 egg slightly beaten 1 tablespoon milk 1 one-inch plastic baby doll

Place dough on a lightly floured surface and knead like bread. While kneading, add up to 1 cup more of flour (one tablespoon at a time) sprinkled over the dough, as needed. When dough is no longer sticky, knead 10 minutes more until shiny and elastic. Using a pastry brush, coat the inside of a large bowl evenly with one tablespoon softened butter. Place dough ball in the bowl and rotate until the entire surface is buttered. Cover bowl with a moderately thick kitchen towel and place in a draft-free spot for about 1 ½ hours, or until the dough doubles in volume. Remove dough from bowl and place on lightly floured surface. Using your fist, punch dough down with a heavy blow. Divide dough into three equal long strips and braid. Pinch the ends together to form an oval and place onto a buttered baking sheet. Sprinkle cinnamon over the top. Cover dough with towel and set it in draft-free spot for 45 minutes until the circle of dough doubles in volume. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Make an egg wash by combining

beaten egg with 1 tablespoon milk. Brush top and sides of cake with the egg wash and bake on buttered baking sheet on middle rack for 25 to 35 minutes until golden brown. Remove cake from oven and place on a wire rack to cool. If desired, “hide” the plastic baby in the bottom of the cake. PROCESS FOR COLORED SUGARS Squeeze several drops of one of the food colors in small bowl. Combine with 4 tablespoons sugar and, using your fingers, mix them together quickly. Set aside on wax paper and wash hands to remove color. Repeat process for the other 2 colors. PROCESS FOR ICING Combine sugar and water until smooth. If icing is too stiff, slowly add more water until spreadable. Spread icing over top of warm cake. Immediately sprinkle the colored sugars in individual rows consisting of about 2 rows of green, purple and yellow. Serve with café au lait. ❖

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Spirit Guide

s p i S forts

Wine, beer and cocktail pairings for our favorite bakes around Utah

e e w S


t’s an ironic statement heard regularly from pastry chefs: They’re not fans of the sweet stuff, themselves. Whether it’s a result of taste-testing sugar in volume during culinary school or subconscious blood-sugar self-preservation, at the most, they’ll try a bite or two to check for balance. But for the most part, their palate preferences lean more to savory than sweet.


Their beverage choices also tend to be minimalist: rich roasted coffee, a great glass of wine, hoppy beer or favorite whiskey served neat. With these maxims of minimalism in mind, this month’s Spirit Guide shines a light on recommendations from local chefs and restaurateurs for their favorite pairings to sip along with popular baked bites on March menus.


Tradition’s Gingerberry pie THE BEVERAGE:

Gentleman & A Scholar

Few things in life are more satisfying than a warm piece of fruit pie topped with rich ice cream. At Tradition, chef Max Shrives has the science of constructing a perfect flaky all-butter piecrust down pat. Says co-owner Ashton Aragon of this neighborhood favorite: “There’s only butter, flour, water and a little salt in the crust. The rest is Max’s magic” in working the dough. The only thing that might make it better is pairing Shrives’ gingerberry pie (strawberry, blackberry and blueberry with a zingy touch of fresh ginger root) with a satisfying whiskey-forward tipple. Aragon recommends the bar’s most popular cocktail, the Gentleman & A Scholar, made with rye whiskey, cognac, housemade plum cordial and local blueberrycardamom bitters, garnished with a fragrant fresh sage leaf. Tradition 501 E. 900 South, SLC 585-202-7167

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A N F O O D H E AV E N G E RaM n Delicatessen & Restauran t


20 W. 200 S. • (801) 355-3891 • Catering available Open Mon-Wed: 9am-6pm Thu-Sat: 9am-9pm

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Spirit Guide


3 Cups’ chocolate cookie and macarons THE BEVERAGE:

Epic Brewing Big Bad Baptist Imperial Stout

“Everyone loves macarons,” asserts Pastry Chef Jacquelene Smith as the reason she so frequently has them on baking rotation in the bustling Holladay coffee shop. In this case her delicate macaron is slathered with cocoa-nib Italian buttercream and served alongside a dense, chewy, and surprisingly gluten-free dark chocolate cookie. It’s a rich plate made to share. 3 Cups recently received a wine and beer license, allowing customers to pair the sweets with an equally robust local brew, Epic Brewing’s Big Bad Baptist Imperial Stout. A whiskey barrel-aged dark beer made with cocoa nibs and coffee beans, it decidedly complements, rather than competes with, Smith’s decadent treats. 3 Cups 4670 S. 2300 East, Holladay 385-237-3091


George’s Strawberry Shortcake THE BEVERAGE:

Patrick Bottex “La Cueille” Bugey-Cerdon Sparkling Rosé

3 Cups’ chocolate cookie and macarons with Epic Brewing Big Bad Baptist Imperial Stout

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“I am not sure why, but the simple combination of fresh whipped cream, macerated fresh berries and a biscuit or light cake is always enjoyable to me,” Scott Evans, owner and sommelier of the Pago restaurant group, says. “It’s not too sweet and is a perfect match for slightly sweet beverage pairing.” Evans recommends a rather obscure special-order French wine that he is pleased to introduce at George and his on-site natural wine bar, Bar George. “This is a stunning wine, not to be missed,” says Evans of the single-fermentation sparkling wine with soft spritz and fresh red fruit profiles that go remarkably well with light and subtle fruit-forward desserts. But as it is the only Bugey-Cerdon available in Utah, make sure to snatch up the opportunity while it lasts. George (formerly Finca) 327 W. 200 South, SLC 801-487-0699


Oak Wood Fire Kitchen wood-fired sourdough THE BEVERAGE:

Classic Manhattan

Comfort comes in many forms, and for Executive Chef Brandon Price, one of his favorite moments of the day occurs when he pulls fresh sourdough loaves out of the Oak pizza oven, perfectly baked with the residual heat of the night before. He churns house-made crème fraiche into soft peaks—a delightfully tangy whipped butter—to slather a toasted slice of sourdough. A thing of simple beauty, especially when paired with a classic Manhattan stirred up with top-shelf Kentucky bourbon for a late afternoon cocktail break with friends. It’s a food-and-drink pairing that comforts the body and nourishes the soul.

Oak Wood Fire Kitchen wood-fired sourdough with a Classic Manhattan

Oak Wood Fire Kitchen 715 E. 12300 South, Draper 801-996-8155


Bambara‘s Olive oil cake with goat cheese crémeux THE BEVERAGE:

Inniskillin Gold Vidal Ice Wine, Niagara Estate 2017

Bambara Executive Chef Nathan Powers has an affinity for ice wines. The rich and dynamic flavors are reminiscent of a “life changing, rare, old Sauternes” he sampled in during his Culinary Institute of America internship in chef Jeremiah Tower’s kitchen decades ago. And, as a native of Rochester, New York, he favors the justifiably famed ice wines from the Finger Lakes region and Niagara Peninsula. When Bambara Banquet and Pastry Chef Marissa Bean developed this confection— a rich olive oil cake, whipped goat cheese crémeux, dried apricot and ginger, a Marcona almond crumble, jauntily topped with a lavender tuille and citrus-forward melon sorbet—Chef Powers knew a libation from his homeland would be a perfect pairing. Inniskillin’s Niagara Estate ice wine has rich dried tropical fruit notes and the luscious structure of a classic Sauternes, making it a delightful sweet balance to the zippy citrus and tangy sour notes of the crémeux. Bambara 202 S. Main, SLC 801-363-5454 Devour Devour Utah Utah •• march march 2019 2019 47 47

Spirit Guide


Trio’s chestnut chocolate-caramel tart Pistachio Crusted Chicken

Open 8 am to 3 pm Daily. Closed Tuesdays 2305 S Highland Dr SLC, UT 84106 385.252.7061


Custom Catering & Home Delivery Service 801.359.6035 | Check Us Out on Facebook

Dare To Be Different

Custom design, in house work, jewelry repair, high quality diamonds, engagement rings. 801-583-2700 | 1346 S. 2100 E. SLC, UT 48 Devour Utah • march 2019


Swedish Holiday (mulled wine)

“Chestnuts remind me of being in Italy during the holidays,” Robert Angelilli, Trio restaurant group pastry chef, says. “Everywhere you go, you smell roasting chestnuts,” he reminisces. “They speak to me of winter and the harkening of spring.” Taking this inspiration to heart, Angelilli fills his delicate almond flourbased tart crust with a layer of dark, rich caramel and classic chocolate ganache sprinkled with Maldon sea salt, grounded with a generous smear of chestnut purée. He suggests sipping a beverage also grounded in the tastes of Europe: mulled wine. Bar manager Angelique Richter’s delicately spiced concoction—available in early spring for post-skiing sipping—combines both a dry red and sweet white wine, with Tawny port for balance. Notes of citrus, cinnamon, cloves and other aromatics are present but not overwhelming. In a surprising addition, Richter includes a generous handful of almonds to the steaming pot of wine to give body, depth and balance to the resulting brew. ❖ Trio Café Cottonwood 6405 S. 3000 East, Cottonwood Heights 801-944-8746


THE MOUNTAINS ARE CALLING AND I MUST GO! “Mountain Roll” Only at Simply Sushi!

Proudly serving SLC and the valley for over 12 years. Endless sushi and à la carte options available 7 days a week. A fun, casual, affordable experience for the whole family.


1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE | 385-259-0712 4670 HOLLADAY VILLAGE PLAZA (2300 EAST) | 801-676-9706 149 EAST 200 SOUTH | 385-259-0940 6154 SOUTH FASHION PLACE BLVD | 801-266-2487 1688 W TRAVERSE PARKWAY (LEHI) | 801-331-8033


Downtown Salt Lake City 400 South 200 West Salt Lake City, UT

Smith’s Shopping Center 7117 S. Redwood Road West Jordan, UT Open Daily from 11:30am to 8:30pm Open Sundays at 12:30pm

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Last Bite

Running for Pastries

One group of athletes weighs in on the ultimate recovery food BY C. DERUM


nce upon a time, long ago, I fancied myself a serious runner, complete with a carefully planned training schedule, 80-plus mile weeks, a strict race calendar, and ever-more ambitious goals. These days, I am still up super-early most mornings to grind out miles on roads and trails, though the intensity is decidedly less intense. One thing that keeps me rolling out of bed to run at an ungodly hour is having crazy friends with the same plan—and pastries. I am fortunate to have running buddies who also trained like mad for years but have now more or less reached their competitive dotage. Since we all live in different parts of the city, coffee shops have turned out to be a natural meet-up spot. After the run, we slip into the café for coffee, conversation, and, on weekend runs … the baked goods. While our go-to spots seem to change with the seasons, here are some favorites: 3 Cups (4670 S. 2300 East, Holladay, 385-237-3091, 3Cups. coffee): This place has it all. The location affords access to ample miles along tree-lined estates, not to mention amazing housemade treats. The Meyer lemon cake and the savory brioche always stand out. Specialty scones, both sweet and savory, are crowd-pleasers. Plus, the latte (with coffee sourced from local roasters) comes with a little cookie on the side. Beaumont Bakery & Cafe (3979 S. Wasatch Blvd., Millcreek, 801-676-9340): Not only is Beaumont ideal for meeting up for trail runs in Millcreek Canyon, its European-inspired pastries are some of the best in town. The cruffins, crullers and kouign amann are visually stunning and equally tasty. The peanut-butter

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chocolate-chip cookie alone prompts post-post-run visits. Cucina (1026 E. Second Ave., SLC, 801-322-3055, We run a hilly 10 ½ mile loop on the Bonneville Shoreline Trail that begins and ends at Cucina, where the outdoor patio is an oasis on summer mornings. While Cucina offers an array of baked goods, the only pastry I can recall any of us ordering is their classic scone. Cinnamon and brown sugar is a favorite, with blueberry and lemon glaze a close second. Coffee Garden (878 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-355-3425): We used to do a long run from Coffee Garden’s 900 South location, where a few of us would “go dark” pushing our limits on 11th Avenue’s deceptive ascent between E Street and the fire station. We don’t “go dark” much anymore. But we still eat the sticky bun at Coffee Garden, which is the best of their baked goods and pairs beautifully with the foam-art latte. In the category of less-frequented, but no less awesome, here are some other favorites: Tulie’s 15th & 15th location (1510 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-410-4217, is among Salt Lake’s best bakeries. It’s impossible not to want to try literally everything, but the morning bun and almond croissant are particular stand-outs. Amour Café (1329 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-467-2947, AmourSLC. com) is cozy and delicious with a great neighborhood vibe. Finally, Sugar House Coffee (2011 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-8838867, and Beans & Brews Coffeehouse (mulitple locations, are consistently great spots for post-run coffee served by friendly faces. ❖

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