VOL. 5 NO. 2 • FEBRUARY 2019 • YEAR OF THE PIG
FREE COPY
DEVOUR YEAR OF THE PIG
FISH TOSS: A RECIPE FOR PROSPERITY P. 21
STATE STREET GEMS P. 24
CHINESE FOOD FEASTS P. 36
MOMO MAKING P. 44
Devour Utah • february 2019 1
2 Devour Utah • February 2019
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contents
Year of the Pig
8 Introduction
24 The Devour Dozen
UTAH STATE REP. KAREN KWAN
BY ALEX SPRINGER
Lunar New Year celebrations all about food, family and generosity
10 Fab Four
Authentic Chinese curds, cakes, noodles and buns BY ALEX SPRINGER
14 Guardian Lions
Chinatown Plaza offers tastes of Asia, and a place to gather BY JEN HILL
18 When Dragons Dance Salt Lake’s Chinese New Year’s celebrations form lifelong friendships BY DIANE HARTFORD
21 Devour This Recipe Yushen: Cantonese-style raw fish salad BY DIANE HARTFORD
22 Lucky for You
From fish and chicken to fruit and candies, each food for the Chinese New Year is steeped in symbolism BY ANNIE QUAN
Salt Lake’s State Street is a bastion of Chinese cuisine
32 The Spread
Hanamaru in Ogden BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
34 Happy Food
Noodle noshing can be fun if you know what we mien BY BRIAN FRYER
36 Noodles to Twirl
Two sisters (and 100 hashtags) guide you to an Instagramable Chinese food feast BY MIKA LEE AND CAIT LEE
42 Manager’s Choice
We asked the boss: What’s on your plate for the Lunar New Year? BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL AND CAITLIN HAWKER
44 Momos With a Master
Baker Yangjin Sherpa shares a favorite recipe from Nepal BY DARBY DOYLE
46 Things We Love
Chinatown Market must-haves BY DIANE HARTFORD
48 Cook, Eat & Celebrate
Celebrate Lunar New Year with a SLICE cooking class BY HEATHER L. KING
50 Dumplings at Your Door
Dumpling delivery for dinner, or a big feast BY HEATHER L. KING
53 Japanese Cocktail Culture
Local bartenders show their Japanese flair BY DARBY DOYLE
58 The Green Scene
Long Life Vegi House lives up to its name BY AMANDA ROCK
4 Devour Utah • February 2019
Devour Utah • february 2019 5
DEVOUR
CONTRIBUTORS
STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Director of Operations PETE SALTAS
EDITORIAL Editor JERRE WROBLE Proofreader CAITLIN HAWKER, RAY HOWZE Contributors CAROLYN CAMPBELL, DARBY DOYLE, BRIAN FRYER, DIANE HARTFORD, CAITLYN HAWKER, JEN HILL, HEATHER L. KING, KAREN KWAN, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, ANNIE QUAN, AMANDA ROCK, ALEX SPRINGER
Amanda Rock has been writing about Salt Lake City’s vegan and vegetarian food for over a decade. She’s lived here all her life and can’t imagine living anywhere else. When not thinking about food, she’s got her head buried in a book. Find her on Instagram and Twitter as @amanda___reads.
Photographers ALLIE KESLER, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, DIANE SHEYA
PRODUCTION Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, SEAN HAIR, CHELSEA NEIDER
BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMMY HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS
Brian Fryer is a native Utahn with a communications degree from Utah State University. He’s edited for McGraw-Hill Construction publications, Intermountain Healthcare and the Park Record newspaper. A food enthusiast, his Devour sego lily feature took first place in SPJ’s Headliners 2018 competition for Best Magazine Feature Story.
MARKETING Director of Events & Marketing SAMANTHA SMITH
CIRCULATION Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
SALES Magazine Advertising Director Sales Director, Events Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF KYLE KENNEDY ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER MIEKA SAWATZKI
Salt Lakers Mika Lee and Cait Lee are two sisters always on a quest for amazing food that’s attached to a photo assignment. Cait is a former graphic designer for City Weekly. Follow them on Instagram @crazyfullasians
Cover design by Derek Carlisle Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing
Copyright 2019. All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • February 2019
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Alex Springer has been writing about local food and entertainment for the past seven years. He is a member of the Association of Food Journalists, and his work has appeared in SLUG Magazine and Salt Lake City Weekly, where he is currently the publication’s resident food dude.
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Introduction
Chinese Gobstoppers C
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hinese New Year togetherness. It’s difficult to Dad cooking back in the day came to Utah in 1869 choose my favorite Chinese with the workers who New Year dish, but this one built the Transcontinental ranks up there. Railroad. It’s also called It’s not a dish for babies: The Lunar New Year because it’s rice balls have the consistency celebrated by many other of glue slime but are so much Asian communities such more delicious than I imagine as Vietnamese, Korean, glue slime could ever be. Singaporeans and Tibetan. They’re soft and endlessly In 2019, we’ll celebrate chewy. It’s a Chinese version Chinese New Year, the Year of of an Everlasting Gobstopper the Pig, on Feb. 5. The holiday and the most addictive of lasts about 15 days, during glutenous rice balls. which time the Chinese The customs of Chinese community celebrates with New Year make it a great banquets and elaborate day to be a kid. There’s no dishes. sweeping or vacuuming, lest Each dish served is a our good fortune for the new metaphor for prosperity, year be swept away by doing good fortune, health and these chores. other good wishes because And of course, there Chinese words for the dish or were the hong bao, or red ingredients are homonyms for envelopes, filled with money. something else positive. For Usually, it’s just $1 or $2, but example, the Chinese word for it could be more from a close fish sounds like the Chinese relative. One year, I received word for “surplus.” a total haul of $23. I think The food’s appearance also I bought a Donny Osmond My younger sister in front of my dad’s takeout, circa 1974 serves as a metaphor. Fish record with some of that is served whole (head and money. tail) to symbolize fullness and wholeness. The type of fish, The Chinese community holds several events in and around the way it’s served, and when and how it’s eaten all have the Salt Lake area. Among these include a fireworks show meaning. The fish head faces a respected elder or an honored (to ward off evil spirits) and a lion dance at the Chinatown guest. The people who face the head and tail have a good luck Supermarket (3390 S. State, Ste. 11, SLC, 801-906-8788) on drink together symbolizing good will at the beginning and Feb. 2, 6-8 p.m. There are also Lion dances at the State Capitol the end of the year. (350 N. State, SLC, 801-410-0011, UtahStateCapitol.Utah.gov) My earliest memories of Chinese New Year involve food. on Feb. 5 at 12:30 p.m. as well as at various Salt Lake libraries, Actually, all of my memories involve food. My father owned such as one at the Viridian Event a small takeout restaurant (Chop Stick Kitchen) in Canoga Center (8030 S. 1825 West, West Jordan, Park, California, where my siblings and I grew up. Among SLCoLibrary.org) on Feb. 2 from 1 to 4 the many dishes my dad cooked for Chinese New Year was a p.m. lettuce wrap filled with oysters and chestnuts, because, he Gung hay fat choy! ❖ told me, oysters look like a purse with a treasure in it. We also ate a soup with what my dad called dumplings but were in fact really sticky, gelatinous rice balls. Sometimes, — Rep. Karen Kwan these are served sweet, but my family eats them in a savory Utah State House, District 34 soup with cabbage and mushrooms. These symbolize family (Taylorsville)
8 Devour Utah • February 2019
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Year of the Pig
Hunting for authentic Chinese fare? Use your eyes, nose and taste buds BY ALEX SPRINGER
O
10 Devour Utah • February 2019
Shanghai Rice Cake
HEATHER DOWES
rdering Chinese food in Utah a few decades ago meant coming home with a few white cardboard boxes packed full of chop suey, fried rice and fortune cookies. What Utahns considered Chinese food back then was a far cry from what most Chinese cooks served their families at home. And even today, many still miss out on authentic Chinese cuisine by habitually ordering Americanized dishes of deepfried foods drenched in sweet sauces. Once you make an attempt to bust through the wall of orange chicken and crab Rangoon to scratch the surface of authentic Chinese dishes, it’s easy to be captivated by the fascinating— and delicious—nuances of the cuisine. With a history that spans thousands of years and the influence of culinary dialects from diverse regions, Chinese food is dizzyingly complex. If such complexity causes your taste buds to dance, then here are some regional Chinese dishes you’ll want to check out.
Shanghai Rice Cake
The cuisine of the Shanghai region is defined by the retention of the flavors of its ingredients. Boba World is no exception—the respect that they show their ingredients is on display with every dish. The true testament to this respect comes from the Shepherd’s Purse Shanghai Rice Cake ($8.95). The rice cake arrives sliced into pleasantly chewy rounds
and topped with chicken and greens. After my first bite, I swore that its golden sauce was thick with butter, but I soon realized that the intense flavor of the chicken was responsible for this richness. I’m still in awe. Boba World 512 W. 750 South, Woods Cross 801-298-3626 BobaWorld.blogspot.com
Taiwanese Beef Stewed Noodles
As it was born on a small island off the coast of China, the cuisine of Taiwan had its limitations. But, limitations are often the best path to creativity, which is where the traditional cuisine of Taiwan finds itself. The offerings available at Mom’s Kitchen exemplify getting the absolute most out of only a few ingredients to supercharge their existing flavors. The best example comes from the beef stewed noodles
($9.99), a tangle of homemade Taiwanese noodles, thick and full-textured, stewed in a rich beef broth and topped with thin slices of brisket. Deep, comforting umami is the star of this dish. Mom’s Kitchen 2233 S. State, SLC 801-486-0092 MomsKitchenSaltLakeCity.com
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Taiwanese Beef Stewed Noodles
Devour Utah • february 2019 11
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Year of the Pig
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Sichuan Minced Meat With Bean Curd
Sichuan Minced Meat With Bean Curd
China’s Sichuan region is known for heat—and lots of it. Fans of spicy food will want to check out Szechuan Garden—one of Jon Huntsman Jr.’s favorite local joints—high praise coming from a former ambassador to China. The dishes here tease your mouth, letting you appreciate the smoky flavors, instead of overwhelming you with their capsaicin content. The minced meat with bean curd ($7.95) consists of small, silky tofu
cubes topped with a pepper oil sauce. The creaminess of the tofu balances the heat of the sauce, letting that nuanced smoky flavor settle on the tongue. Szechuan Garden 1275 E. 8600 South, Sandy 801-233-0027 SzechuanGardenSandy.com
Cantonese Dim Sum
Hong Kong Tea House 565 W. 200 South, SLC 801-531-7010 HongKongTeahouse.com
Cantonese Dim Sum
DEREK CARLISLE
Many regional cuisines are defined not only by type of food and preparation techniques, but by the culinary experience itself. Dim sum, the breakfast/brunch meal developed by Chinese teahouses thousands of years ago, is one such experience, and it’s integral to Cantonese cuisine. Hong Kong Tea House offers dim sum every day before 3 p.m., and it doesn’t skimp on the selection. I heartily recommend the BBQ pork buns ($2.75)—steamed or baked, you can’t go wrong—and the steamed stuffed bean curd roll ($3.20), or, if you’re feeling dangerous, take a leap and try out the steamed chicken feet ($2.75). ❖
Devour Utah • february 2019 13
Pomelo fruit G
UA N RDIA
Lions
The Chinatown Plaza offers dazzling tastes of Asia and a community gathering spot BY JEN HILL
HOURS 9:30AM TO 9:30PM
365 DAYS A YEAR
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! W O W
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An Asian fresh fruit, Pomelo is plentiful this time of year. This large yellow citrus resembles a grapefruit but is much less sour and acidic. Its sweet and tender insides are delightful and pleasant to taste and make a refreshing juice when freshly squeezed.
Chinatown’s Hottest
Chinese chestnuts
reat food knows no barriers and can remedy what gets lost in translation. Have you noticed the majestic, red Chinese-style archway, or paifang, as you drive along State Street in South Salt Lake? Patterned after a palace gateway in Beijing, with a pair of beautiful lions at the entrance, the welcoming message etched upon this archway is one of inclusion. It invites passage to a plaza of Asian eateries and shops, including the largest Asian-influenced supermarket in Salt Lake Valley, stocked with more than 200 fresh fruits and vegetables, pallets of fragrant rice options, live seafood, meats and thousands of frozen, packaged and bottled specialty foods.
14 Devour Utah • February 2019
5
$ .99
1
$ .99
Lb.
A universally beloved nut meat, chestnuts can be purchased whole in the shell and wrapped in the produce refrigerated section. One can also find shelled and roasted chestnuts. Both are USDA Organically certified and competitively priced. A Fresh Taste of East Asia The brainchild of Andrew So, along with his parents, Yue So and Wai Chan, now semi-retired, the Sos opened the Chinatown Supermarket in 2014 after moving to Utah and noticing a lack of an Asian center in which to share homeland traditions. Originally from Hong Kong, before coming to Utah, the Sos lived in New York City, where Andrew earned an economics degree from New York University. Andrew and his wife, Katrina, are not only the current owners, they each play an integral role with day-to-day business operations. Andrew says the Chinatown Supermarket’s customers appreciate the store’s variety of high-quality fresh produce and meats. Grocery items are sourced internationally as well
Yu choy sum
ASIAN GREENS
1
$ .79 Lb.
Along with fresh greens such as baby bok choy and napa cabbage, Andrew said Yu Choy Sum is one of their most popular Asian vegetables. With long, tender, leafy stocks and a mild flavor, these can be pan-fried or placed in soups, and provide a quick and easy way to pack in more healthy, delicious veggies.
! W O W
Black garlic
An ancient Asian fermentation technique metaphorizes raw garlic cloves. As the color deepens to black, it brings out a natural sweetness while the texture becomes softer and jelly-like. It possesses twice the antioxidant properties of garlic in its raw form.
Deals on state street
King oyster mushrooms
1
$ .99
Lb.
Impressive in size, as the name suggests, the King Oyster mushroom is popular in Asian cooking and adds a savory, umami “meaty” flavor when prepared in a sizzling wok. It can be added to make a flavorful broth, or browned with pan-fried noodles. as within the United States, including several items with USDA Organic certifications. For instance, highly prized Kobe beef is sourced from a cattle ranch in California and priced below local competitors. Whether you cook from scratch or pick up ready-made dishes to take home, this market offers about every grocery item any cook needs (and at competitive prices) from bulk spices, baked goods and deli items to an extensive selection of fresh vegetables, exotic fruits, meats, seafood (including blue crab), tofu, kimchi, sauces, rice paper, ramen noodles and dried seaweeds. You’ll also find a large selection of Asian beverages and drinks.
3
now only
$ .99 6-pack
More Than a Grocery Store Much more than a grocery store, the Chinatown Supermarket anchors what Andrew calls the “plaza” of eight (soon to be 10) surrounding restaurant, tea house, bakery and karaoke venues. Each restaurant offers its unique cultural spin and backstory while providing several dining options, from Sozo’s Taiwanese grilled satay skewers to China Town Eatery’s Cantonese steamed dumplings or dim sum, One More Noodle House’s Sichuan-style handmade pan-fried noodles, and fresh, beautifully baked mochi bread still warm from the oven served at Utah’s first Korean bakery, the Moon Bakery. Devour Utah • february 2019 15
Frozen whole durian fruit G
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Lions
! W O W
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$ .99 Lb.
If the durian fell on you, this large, spiky tropical fruit could injure you! Luckily, at Chinatown Supermarket, it’s found in the freezer case and sold by the pound. The fruit’s inner pulp is white and creamy, and it features a very distinctive (some say disgusting) smell. Many appreciate its custard-like consistency and complex, sweet flavor. The fruit is also considered an aphrodisiac. The supermarket sells both the Jumbo Mornthong variety cultivated in Thailand as well as the Richin Musang King durian from Malaysia—more expensive but thought to have a superior taste. Throughout the tour, Andrew pointed out durian in its other forms, from frozen pulp to freeze-dried and its use as an ingredient in other novel foods such as mochi ice cream, candies, cookies, and even coffee. Perhaps it will be the next featured exotic latte at Starbucks?
JEN HILL
Vegan specialty items
The Chinatown Supermarket supplies a vast assortment of produce, soup ingredients and high-quality frozen, imitation and vegan “meat” and “seafood” items. Without question, the store provides the largest frozen selection in the area.
I left the Chinatown Supermarket carrying an armful of freshly baked Chinese cakes and Pomelo fruit, swigging down an incredibly creamy, iced brown-sugar Boba tea. I found myself back at the market the very next day with my daughter, this time landing in front of a steaming hot bowl at Pho Huê Ký. After finishing, the host’s young daughter, 3-year-old Lena, delivered our check to the table with great courtesy. After another quick run through the Chinatown Supermarket, bustling with many holiday customers shopping below hanging Chinese red lanterns, I stopped again at Tea’s Memory, because of a strong craving for another brown-sugar iced Boba. Truly, it’s like a visit to another land that will leave a smile on your face and your arms full of groceries you’ll be excited to sample. ❖
16 Devour Utah • February 2019
h s h e s r e F r F r e p e SSuup
Chinatown Supermarket 3370 S. State, South Salt Lake 801-809-3229 ChinatownSupermarkets.com
Chinatown Plaza Eateries
(801) 466-9827 | HARBORSLC.COM | 2302 E PARLEY’S WAY SLC, UT
JEN HILL
3370 S. State, South Salt Lake
Sakura Japanese Hibachi Steakhouse & Sushi: All-you-can-eat lunch $9.99/ dinner $19.99, 801-466-8888 Pho Hung Chau: Chinese and Vietnamese stir-fry dishes and hot pot, 801-906-8858 One More Noodles House: Northern Chinese cuisine, housemade noodles fresh every day, 801-906-8992 China Town Eatery: Cantonese dim sum, 801-487-6213 Sozo Kitchen: Newly opened Taiwanese satay skewers, Panang curry, braised pork
Pho Huê Ký: Vietnamese pho, mixed-noodle dishes, hot pot, 385-528-0570 CY Noodle House: Sichuan Chinese cuisine, 801-485-2777 Big Mouth Street Food: Chinese (Inside YOLO Karaoke) 801-888-7636 Moon Bakery: Mango/red bean shaved ice, first Korean bakery, breads, rolls and cake rolls, 801-263-0404 Tea’s Memory: Boba teas, 385-227-8955 ❖
Devour Utah • february 2019 17
Year of the Pig
COURTESY OF ALLAN LIU AND JAKE FITISEMANU
Jung Hing Lion Dance Club, the oldest troupe in the Intermountain West
WHEN dragons dance Chinese New Year in Salt Lake—while modest compared to other cities—sparked lifelong friendships BY DIANE HARTFORD
G
rowing up in Salt Lake, Allan Liu and Jake Fitisemanu Jr. each have fond memories of celebrating Lunar New Year in their family homes and community. In Salt Lake, the Liu family celebrated by gathering for a big meal the weekend before or after Lunar New Year. Without having extended family nearby and due to the scarcity of seasonal items and Asian markets in Salt Lake in the 1980s and ’90s, Liu says their celebrations were simple. Because Lunar New Year isn’t recognized as a state or federal holiday, it was business as usual for them in terms of work and school. Meanwhile, for family members living in Hong Kong and China, Liu says that Lunar New Year was a weeklong holiday from school and work and can be thought of as Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s all rolled up into one. If they didn’t have a potluck at his parent’s home, Fitisemanu recalls celebrating Lunar New Year at restaurants like Ho Ho Gourmet or Cafe Anh Hong. His grandparents’ ethnic Hakka and Cantonese recipes remind him most of Lunar New Year. Fitisemanu’s grandmother taught him that a Lunar New Year
18 Devour Utah • February 2019
celebration must include at least four dishes: one “stuffed,” one noodle, one pork and one chicken. Noodles should not be cut as they represent long life. Pork is served because when pigs eat, they push forward with their snout, representing pushing success in the previous year forward into the new year. Chicken is served because chickens scratch backward, symbolic of pushing back bad luck from the previous year; stuffed foods (stuffed tofu, duck and dumplings) represents filling the New Year with prosperity and luck. In addition to the celebratory foods of Lunar New Year, both men relish certain family traditions. For instance, Liu recalls greeting parents and grandparents with New Year phrases of “Gung hay fat choy!” and “Sun lin fai lok!” to receive a lucky red envelope. Now, for him, Lunar New Year is about passing red envelopes to nieces and nephews. Fitisemanu cherishes setting up the memorial altar with his daughters and feeling grief for the departed and the joy of honoring their memory. One cultural activity that both Liu and Fitisemanu enjoy
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Allan Liu, upper left, playing mahjong
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Jake Fitisemanu (back row, center, with lei) and Allan Liu (back row, far right)
Cottonwood Heights Cafe
is their participation in the Jung Hing Lion Dance Club. To this day, they remain active in the club, the oldest lion dance troupe in the Intermountain West. Fitisemanu is the club’s head coach teaching Chinese American youth the art and cultural practices of traditional Futsan-style lion dance and dragon dance, including Cantonese drumming. During the two-week Lunar New Year festivities, the dance troupe perform lion dance blessings for local restaurants, businesses and grocery stores. In addition to lion and dragon dancing throughout the community, each year, the club celebrates Lunar New Year with a potluck Chinese dinner, firecrackers and mahjong at Fitisemanu’s house. ❖ Devour Utah • february 2019 19
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20 Devour Utah • February 2019
Devour This | Recipe
Yusheng ingredients are tossed for prosperity
YuSheng CANTONESE-STYLE RAW FISH SALAD RECIPE & PHOTO BY DIANE HARTFORD
C
elebrations of Lunar New Year are infused with symbolism, and celebrants wishing to usher in a year filled with good fortune take great care preparing for the festivity. Yusheng is a popular Lunar New Year appetizer for Chinese living in Singapore and Malaysia. It symbolizes abundance, prosperity and good fortune. Each component of the dish represents these symbols. Raw fish represents its homophone, abundance. Other examples are the pomelo and lime together with raw fish for added luck, shredded radish for eternal youth and crushed peanuts are sprinkled over the dish to suggest a household filled with gold. Once the yusheng is assembled on the platter, family and friends gather around to perform a ceremony known as a Prosperity Toss, or lo hei. Everyone digs into the salad with their chopsticks and tosses the ingredients into the air while sharing wishes for a prosperous new year. Some say the higher the toss, the greater the fortunes. Most of the ingredients for this yusheng recipe can be found at large grocery stores and Asian markets. Check with the fishmonger that the salmon is safe to be consumed raw. Serves 6.
INGREDIENTS 1/3 cup plum sauce 2 tablespoon rice vinegar 2 teaspoon sesame oil 2 carrots, peeled 2 daikon radish, peeled 2 cucumbers 6 tablespoon pickled ginger 1 pomelo or grapefruit, peeled, segmented, and membranes removed 1 cup, Pok Chui crackers or fried wonton strips 1 red pepper, cut into thin strips ½ cup seaweed salad ½ pound salmon, sushi-grade 1 teaspoon Chinese Five Spice 1 teaspoon cinnamon Lime, sliced into wedges Peanuts, finely chopped Toasted sesame seeds DRESSING PROCESS In a small bowl or Mason jar, whisk together plum sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil.
TO ASSEMBLE SALAD Place each pile of vegetable strips around the edge of a platter. Continue placing the ginger, pomelo or grapefruit segments, crispy wonton skins or Pok Chui crackers, red pepper strips, and seaweed salad in piles around the edge of the platter. Cut the salmon into thin slices and roll each slice into rosettes. Place rosettes in the middle of the platter. In another small bowl, combine Chinese Five Spice and cinnamon. Place limes, chopped peanuts and sesame seeds into small serving bowls. TO SERVE Sprinkle sesame seeds, peanuts and spice mixture over salad. Pour dressing over salad. Combine all ingredients and serve with lime wedges. ❖
SALAD PROCESS Using julienne blade on a mandoline or a vegetable peeler with teeth rather than a flat blade, slice carrots, radish, and cucumbers into long, thin strips. Devour Utah • february 2019 21
Year of the Pig
Serving the whole fish represents continuous prosperity
Lucky for you
Salt Lakers keep Chinese traditions alive through symbolic food and family gatherings
M
y family’s roots are in southern China—Hong Kong; we’re of Cantonese decent. And for Lunar New Year, we usually had a traditional dinner at home. My dad, Ming Quan, was executive chef at Charlie Chow’s old Trolley Square location. He went on to operate Ming’s in Foothill Village for 15 years. Because of him, I grew up with huge food celebrations for the Chinese New Year. Many people may have heard of “longevity noodles”— Chinese noodles that are served long and uncut during the new year (see p. 34). But there is symbolism with every dish that’s served, even the number of dishes. For example, there are always eight to nine dishes—never seven, as seven is bad luck. Eight is prosperous, and some hosts will serve nine, but in ancient times, only royalty could serve nine dishes. A whole fish is served because it represents continuous prosperity. Fruit is exchanged for good luck. A whole chicken (with feet and head attached) is prepared, usually poached with ginger, symbolizing family togetherness. Crispy roast pork represents wealth. You wouldn’t serve dishes that you normally would for dinner but, rather, decadent dishes such as lobster, crab and abalone, because rich dishes show wealth.
22 Devour Utah • February 2019
BY ANNIE QUAN PHOTOS BY ALLIE KESLER
Celebrations are a family affair In Salt Lake, during the week of Chinese New Year, friends might host dinners, and organizations throw parties. Utah has a big one with the Utah Indochina Chinese Benevolence Society (UtahIndochina.org). Community members buy tickets that help raise money for the local Chinese school or senior center. My late aunt, Bong Quan, who died a few years ago, was one of the founders, so we always went to this celebration. They’d serve a banquet with traditional Chinese dishes for all members followed by cultural performances and a lion dance. Sweet memories Candies are a big deal. Chocolates come in weird shapes that my father explained looked like Chinese ingots, the most valuable currency in ancient China. The candy most Chinese kids remember are the White Rabbit—which are like vanilla Tootsie Rolls—and Lucky Candy, sweet creamy hard candies in wrappers that resemble the lucky red envelopes. At home, we’d have a tray divided in sections filled with candied fruits and nuts. We’d have “eight sweets” (for the lucky number 8) consisting of lotus root, coconut strips, carrots, lotus seeds, coconut wedges, winter melons,
kumquats and water chestnuts. The names of many Chinese sweets sound like other words that have a positive connotation. The Cantonese word for coconut, for example, sounds like the Chinese words for “grandfather and son.” Pistachios are nicknamed “happy nuts” and sesame balls are called “laughing dates” in Cantonese. Traveling to see relatives In U.S. cities with large Chinese populations, people go all out for the new year. Los Angeles has its annual New Year’s parade through Chinatown (LAGoldenDragonParade.com). There are weeklong festivities in parks, shopping malls and even Disneyland. My cousins in LA are surrounded by the culture. The more people they see, the more red envelopes they receive. Plus, they attend several dinners throughout the week with different friends and family. It’s difficult to grow our traditions here in Salt Lake, because our festivities don’t compare to larger markets. My Vietnamese assistant says she and her family travel to San Jose, California (home to a large Vietnamese population), to celebrate Lunar New Year where they connect with family and friends. In China, the new year is a weeklong vacation called Spring Festival, giving people the opportunity to travel home for family reunions. Temples: Honoring your ancestors is a vital part of the tradition. To do this as a family, you visit the temples of your family shrine. When we were in Los Angeles, we drove to six temples in one day. My grandfather is interred in one, and my uncle is in another. You go and give donations and usually eat lunch at one of them. The meal is vegetarian, and it’s blessed, so it’s for good luck. Another way to encourage good luck (and a red envelope) is to greet your friends and family with “Gung hay fat choy!”—Cantonese for “May you be prosperous and happy!” ❖ Annie Quan is a former marketing director for City Weekly who now operates her own event marketing company, Arthouse Promotions.
Buy Her Something That Lasts
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Devour Utah • february 2019 23
Year of the Pig
STATE STREET GEMS From 3rd to 33rd South (and beyond), State Street is a bastion of Chinese cuisine BY ALEX SPRINGER
S
tate Street is integral to Salt Lake’s Chinese food scene. Here, along Salt Lake’s storied main drag, you’ll find all manner of Asian eateries, serving both authentic and American-style cuisine. New restaurants have quietly shuffled into spaces occupied by old-school joints whose owners moved on, while mighty stalwarts prevail after decades of business. Whatever type of Chinese fare you’re craving, State Street has something to satisfy. Consider these 12 gems to get you started:
24 Devour Utah • February 2019
DEVOUR DOZEN
FULL HOUSE ASIAN BISTRO
During the past nine years, Full House has racked up some serious praise for its Park City location. On the heels of those accolades, owner Huiying Deng opened a second location in Salt Lake in 2018. Full House specializes in sushi and higher-end American Chinese dishes—their plates arrive like frilled peacocks showing off their colorful plumage. The Slippery Shrimp ($19) is one of the house specialties, and it’s a great pick for seafood fans. It’s made of lightly fried shrimp which has been stir fried and topped with a spicy sweet and sour sauce. It’s a fine example of the elevated takes on traditional American Chinese that the restaurant is known for.
LA CAI NOODLE HOUSE’S STIR FRIED BEEF
329 S. State, SLC 801-363-1977 FullHouseAsianBistro.com
LA CAI NOODLE HOUSE
DEREK CARLISLE
La Cai has been serving up a mixture of Vietnamese noodle dishes—think pho and bun—and traditional Chinese stir-fried entrées for 22 years. Chef Hiep Vuu has made their house stir-fried beef ($15.95) the MVP of the latter side of the menu. It’s 14 ounces of marinated steak, sliced into cubes and seared in a wok with garlic and black pepper. The crispy, garlicky reduction that is left after this process gets poured over the steak cubes and veggies, then served with steamed rice. It’s the kind of dish that celebrates the flavor of a nicely cooked steak and uses a subtle spice palate to enhance that flavor. 961 S. State, SLC 801-322-3590 LaCaiNoodleHouse.com
Devour Utah • february 2019 25
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KUNGFU HOTPOT’S SHABU SHABU
DIM SUM HOUSE
Five years ago, chefs Wei Zhong Zhou and Wei Qiang Zhou set out to establish a tea and dim sum house that reflected their respect for the Chinese dim sum tradition. It’s hard to go wrong with anything from the steamed section of the menu— their steamed BBQ pork buns ($2.80) are fluffy clouds filled with sweet and savory barbecued pork, and their shu mai pork dumplings ($3.20) are packed with silky smooth notes of flavor and texture. On the sweeter side of things, I can’t stress the egg custard buns ($2.80) enough. It’s a bit like eating a cream-filled doughnut’s more sophisticated cousin—the sweetness is second to the marshmallow-y texture of the steamed dough and custard. 1158 S. State, SLC 801-359-3838 DimSumHouseSLC.com
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
DEVOUR DOZEN
LITTLE WORLD
KUNGFU HOTPOT
HO HO GOURMET
1356 S. State, SLC 801-467-5213 LittleWorldSLC.com
1465 S. State, SLC 801-410-4506
1504 S. State, SLC 801-487-7709 Facebook.com/Ho-HoGourmet
Boasting a nearly 20year run, Little World is one of the crown jewels of State Street’s Chinese food offerings. Its lunch specials are gigantic and well-priced, and there are hundreds of options on its expansive menu that are just accessible enough to tempt foodie novitiates into trying something completely new. The squid with black bean sauce ($10.99) is a fantastic walk on the wild side. The crosshatched squid arrives looking like delicate flower petals, and the sweetness of the squid contrasts sharply with the black bean sauce in new and interesting ways. That, and their potstickers ($6.26) are among the best in the city.
Despite Utahns’ fondness for fondue, the Chinese tradition of hot pots hasn’t established a strong foothold here as of yet. Hongtao Jia, owner of Kungfu Hotpot, is setting out to change all that. The restaurant opened in August 2018 and has been racking up rave reviews from local food writers and Yelp reviewers alike. Hot pot cuisine starts with a silver crock of broth that is kept boiling hot to cook noodles, veggies and sliced pork belly. It’s served buffet-style with two pricing options. $16.99 gets you the basic package, and $19.99 will unlock more options for your perusal. While the process sounds intimidating, the friendly staff and digital menus make the experience memorable regardless of your experience level.
One of the State Street Chinese places in operation the longest— it’s been up and running since the late ’70s—Ho Ho Gourmet has seen its ups and downs. Regardless, its longevity has made it one of State Street’s culinary landmarks, and owner Kai Hing Ng has helped the restaurant maintain its strong local following despite a few missteps along the way. Sticking to the chef’s suggestions is the best bet—I particularly like their General Tso’s chicken ($10.95). The sauce strikes the right balance between sweet and spicy, and it all pairs nicely with the fried chicken.
Devour Utah • february 2019 27
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DEVOUR DOZEN
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
SPICY BEEF NOODLE BOWL AT ONE MORE NOODLE HOUSE
NEW GOLDEN DRAGON
While we might never know what really happened to the old Golden Dragon—my bet is that it was eaten by the gigantic jade sculpture in the restaurant’s foyer— New Golden Dragon has established itself as one of State Street’s most versatile Chinese restaurants. It’s a safe bet to come here for dim sum because it’s frequently rated among the best Utah has to offer, but I happen to like their cost-effective lunch combos. The Mongolian beef combo ($6.45) comes with a huge helping of beef and veggies, fried rice, egg roll and fried shrimp. Owned and operated by Chef Xiao, who learned his craft in the restaurants of Hong Kong, New Golden Dragon is one of Salt Lake’s most consistently tasty Chinese restaurants. 1716 S. State, SLC 801-487-9888 SLCNewGoldenDragon.com
CHINA TOWN EATERY
Despite the fact that China Town Eatery has played musical chairs with a few different restaurants in the Chinatown Supermarket space near 3300 South and State Street, it looks to have found its permanent home. Officially opened in 2011 by owner Chik Tim Yu, China Town Eatery offers both a dim sum and an entrée menu, both of which are full of Cantonese flavor. It’s one of the places where I like to get congee, a rice porridge that is made with chicken or the occasional preserved egg for the stouthearted. Chicken congee ($3.50) doesn’t look like it will fill you up and keep you warm for a good three hours after ingestion, but this stuff is ideal post-hangover breakfast food. 3370 S. State, Ste. 3, South Salt Lake 801-487-6213
ONE MORE NOODLE HOUSE
Whether it’s intentional or otherwise, One More Noodle House has set itself up as a hot shot upstart in a neighborhood of noodle house veterans. Based on my few visits, however, those old shops would be wise not to underestimate this unassuming noodle joint. Owner Jason Liu opened the restaurant just over a year ago, and they specialize in regional noodle soups from all over China. The numbing spicy beef noodle ($8.98) makes good use of a broth heavy on Sichuan peppercorns that numb the tongue as a predecessor to the smoky heat to come. All their noodles are house-made, making their toothsome texture the perfect counterpart to broth that is full of subtle flavors. 3370 S. State, Ste. 5, South Salt Lake 801-906-8992 OneMoreNoodleHouse.com
Devour Utah • february 2019 29
30 Devour Utah • February 2019
KING BUFFET’S SUSHI BAR
COURTESY KING BUFFET
DEVOUR DOZEN
CY NOODLE AND CHINESE RESTAURANT
CHINESE TASTE
KING BUFFET
3390 S. State, South Salt Lake 801-485-2777 CYNoodlesUt.com
3424 S. State, Ste. F, South Salt Lake 801-466-0888 ChineseTasteTakeout.com
3620 S. State, South Salt Lake (also in Taylorsville and Orem) 801-969-6666 KingBuffetUtah.com
Speaking of noodle house veterans, in the four years since Wayne Ye opened CY Noodle, it’s established itself as a place for noodle connoisseurs from all over the state. While they rebranded to include more Chinese dishes to the menu, I’ll always love their fast-casual approach to the traditional noodle house menu. Diners get the option to choose the noodles, broth and protein for their noodle bowls ($9.25), and it’s worked wonders for me. My current favorite is the soup with udon noodles and spicy beef with a bit of bok choy and napa cabbage. Both the traditional and tomato broth are delicious, but the Sichuan spicy broth is great for those looking for a bit of heat.
Billing itself as Utah’s first authentic Chinese barbecue, Chinese Taste shares the joys of cooking skewers of lamb, beef and pork over an open flame. Said skewers are reasonably priced, ranging from 99 cents for skewered veggies to $6.99 for seafood like scallops. The lamb and beef skewers come with a smoky dry rub, and the spiciness can be made to order. Adventurous eaters can try unconventional fare such as pork kidneys and chicken hearts. Chinese Taste also offers a few hot pots if you’re visiting with a group—the spicy incense pot ($16.99) is a good place to start.
If you’re looking for a Chinese buffet with all the pomp and circumstance of a Las Vegas casino, then look no further than King Buffet. With three locations—one in Taylorsville, one in Orem and its newest addition on State Street—King Buffet has always got its eye on expanding. Pricing is always a flat rate—$8.95 for lunch and $12.95 for dinner. For that meager entrance fee, diners are treated to a buffet that contains hundreds of different options, including sushi. It’s easy to get overwhelmed by a menu of this size, so I suggest heading in with a game plan. I’m a fan of seafood, so that’s always where I start. Their salt and pepper shrimp is awesome, and their sushi game isn’t too bad either. It really is a noholds-barred look at Chinese cuisine, so the only real rule is to come hungry. ❖
Devour Utah • february 2019 31
Year of the Pig
COURTESY HANAMARU
HANAMARU’S Soba Noodles with Tempura Shrimp and Veggies
the
Spread Hanamaru
W
hile peering out of the window during a Pilates class one Saturday morning five years ago, I noticed people coming and going from Hanamaru, a little Japanese restaurant below Washington Boulevard in Ogden. My curiosity piqued, I limped over after class to learn that freshly prepared ramen was being served “only on Saturdays” by chef and owner Ryoichi (Roy) Yamamoto. 32 Devour Utah • February 2019
BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
Trained in the culinary arts in Osaka under two world-class chefs, Chef Roy frankly doesn’t need more business or publicity. In fact, he modestly declined to be interviewed for this piece, in the hopes of “protecting” his current customers. You see, Ogden natives more than fill up the six tables and six seats at the bar from Wednesday to Saturday, during lunch and dinner, along with the
private cooking classes he teaches. Hanamaru is just the kind of place you secretly wish every neighborhood had: It’s a cozy converted house—what you might find in a traditional Japanese neighborhood, landscaped with a small Japanese garden. Bamboo floors and the sparse décor add charm, while the windows shed light above your head when you’re seated, allowing you to focus on the beautifully prepared food.
Ordering is self-service, then you wait to be impressed by the simple, fresh dishes like Katsu-don ($8.80), breaded fried pork cutlet with egg and onion sauce over rice, and my favorite, Tempura Soba Soup, perfectly cooked buckwheat noodles in broth with a side of tempura shrimp and veggies ($8.50). Salmon, grilled or teriyaki, is lovely as is the katsu curry. The best part? Getting a perfect potato croquette with many meals. And always
order soup with noodles. I’m sure you’ll agree it’s the best place to experience authentic Japanese dishes in Utah. Note: Reservations are not accepted on Ramen Saturdays, but they are a must any other time. Seating is not available for groups larger than 6 people. ❖ Hanamaru 357 E. 37th St., Ogden 801-395-0329 TheHanamaru.com
COURTESY HANAMARU
REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
COURTESY HANAMARU
Meso and nigiri cuts AT HANAMARU IN OGDEN
Hanamaru is closed through Feb. 28, 2019 Devour Utah • february 2019 33
Year of the Pig
Noodle noshing can be ‘fun’ if you know what we ‘mien’ STORY AND PHOTOS BY BRIAN FRYER
“People are put on earth for various purposes; I was put on earth to do this: Eat noodles right here.” —Anthony Bourdain at an Asian noodle shop
I
’ve agreed with the late chef/traveler/storyteller Anthony Bourdain on many things but none as much as his love for Asian noodles. I’ve become entirely too predictable with my family when eating out. “You know Dad is going to want noodles,” my kids say with only a little exasperation. I plead guilty. I also think Bourdain would agree that there are worse things to be hooked on. While debate rages on about whether Marco Polo introduced pasta/noodles to Italy after his travels to China, what is not disputed is that the Chinese created noodles. The first written accounts or recipes for them date to the Han Dynasty (206 B.C.-220 A.D.). Noodles are second only to rice as a common element in Asian food culture. Collectively known as miàn (mein or mien), noodle dishes such as chow mein were among the first Chinese foods to become popular in the United States. Noodles come as varied as the countries themselves, and each region has its unique preference and preparations. While Italian pasta is typically made with semolina wheat flour and eggs, one can find Asian noodles made with
34 Devour Utah • February 2019
everything from wheat flour to sweet potatoes and beans. While some noodles can be short and bite-size, most are long and thin, as length is an important feature. Erin Lin at Mom’s Kitchen (2233 S. State, SLC, 801-486-0092, MomsKitchenSaltLakeCity.com) in South Salt Lake said long noodles are an important part of Chinese celebrations. New year’s feasts often feature “longevity noodles” or cháng shòu miàn, prepared to be as long as possible and not cut or even chewed much to ensure a long life and prosperous new year. Noodles for the most popular dishes at Mom’s Kitchen (named for and owned by friends Mama Zhang from Beijing and Mama Chen from Taiwan) are made in-house. The extruded flourand-water strands are used in cold noodle dishes like dan dan noodles and the popular Taiwanese beef stewed noodle soup. West Jordan resident and native of Taiwan Miggie Fay says beef stewed noodles are a favorite of hers to make and eat at home along with dishes using rice noodles. “In Taiwan for Chinese New Year, lots of families will cook stir-fried rice noodles,” she noted.
Noodle primer Sliced noodles
Vietnamese egg noodles
Peering down the noodle aisle at an Asian market is a bit like taking in the breakfast cereal aisle in an American supermarket: You’ll see shelves of multicolored packages in all shapes and sizes, made from an array of grains. The first Chinese noodles were likely made from millet, a staple grain back in the day. Today, most noodles are made using wheat flour, rice, starchy vegetables and beans. There are four signature Chinese-style noodles: Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles (these springy noodles often include an alkaline component such as potassium carbonate); spicy dan dan noodles from the Sichuan Province; zha jiang mian (fried sauce noodles)—the thick wheat noodles in fried sauce popular in Beijing; and the legendary daoxiao or knife-peeled noodles in Shanxi Province.
Wheat noodles ( Chow mein, lo mein)
Wheat noodles are just that: made from wheat flour and water with a little salt. While there are many varieties and sizes, as a whole, they are chewy and hardy, able to stand up to sauces and be used in soups such as beef stewed noodle soup. The thinner ones can be stir fried with vegetables and meats for lo mein. Others are cooked in boiling water like most pastas. Unlike Italian pasta that is usually cooked al dente so there is a little resistance to the bite, Chinese wheat noodles should be cooked through and be easy to bite through or slurp from a broth. Some cooks add lye, egg or even shrimp to the dough, giving the wheat noodles a different texture. Some eggier versions have a yellow color and can be chewier. They are also suited to be stir fried or used in soups. Wheat noodles
Rice Noodles ( Chow fun, rice vermicelli)
These are made from cooked rice pressed into a paste and extruded into different sizes. Another method is to steam rice and make a slurry from it, then spread it onto sheets and cut it. Rice noodles range in size from fat ribbons to the small rice stick or vermicelli noodles. Rice noodles have gained popularity recently since they are gluten free, hold up well in sauces and can be used in soups. The word fun in the name of a Chinese dish usually means rice noodles are used.
Starch noodles ( Mung bean, yam noodles)
Noodles made from the starches of vegetables and legumes are less common but have their own textures and uses. Noodles made from mung beans tend to have very little flavor on their own while those made from sweet potatoes will be earthy and sweet. These noodles are generally very chewy and gelatinous in texture. ❖ Devour Utah • february 2019 35
to Twirl
Two sisters (and 100 hashtags) guide you to an Instagrammable Chinese food feast
L
unar New Year is our favorite time of year. With approximately 1.4 billion people celebrating this 15-day holiday in China, and millions more with Chinese roots celebrating around the world, Lunar New Year is about festivities, family, fortune and feasting. Fireworks light up the sky to signal the start of this festival. Firecrackers pop in the night to ward off evil spirits and lion dances attract cheering crowds along the streets. Red envelopes are given in hopes of garnering good fortune in the new year. In the Chinese zodiac, 2019 brings the Year of the Pig, an auspicious -style French year to attract success into one’s life. It’s said if you focus on advancing ’s e l p a Red M k your career and income, you’ll see gains in the coming year. tea beef s The festival is best enjoyed spending time with loved ones. One of our favorite traditions is eating dumplings, or 饺子 (pronounced jiǎo zi), as they are the symbol of letting go of the old and starting anew. ple’s We also eat 汤圆 (pronounced tāng yuán), which are rice ed Ma with R hrimp e t a r mochi-textured balls in a sweet soup, oftentimes filled Celeb lnut s ent wa succul with lotus paste, black sesame or red bean. Our family particularly enjoys getting together preparing meals for a celebration. The time we spend with our mother wrapping and frying dumplings or filling zhòng zhí (sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves) using Grandma’s family recipe strengthens traditions and bonding. Looking for ways to celebrate the Lunar New Year? We toured the Valley in search of tasty Chinese meals worthy of an Instagram post and found many places to choose from, ranging from authentic to fusion foods. We’re pleased to share our recommendations with you on the following pages. So deck yourself out in the lucky colors of red and gold and join your friends and loved ones at one of these fantastic local restaurants for a new year’s feast. And keep up with our journeys on Instagram @crazyfullasians.
36 Devour Utah • February 2019
a Lee By Mik ee L & Cait
Red Maple Chinese Restaurant is dishing up its juicy French-style beef steak. Owners/chefs Macy and Bronson were the first to bring this dish to Utah more than 10 years ago, and it’s still a chef’s favorite. During Chinese New Year, Red Maple will host a lion dance on Feb. 12 at 6:30 p.m. for dinein guests. Dim sum is served daily, with weekend “cart” service of specialty dishes. 2882 W. 4700 South, Taylorsville, 801-747-2888, RedMapleChinese.com
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Devour Utah • february 2019 37
A N F O O D H E AV E N G E RaM n Delicatessen & Restauran Germ
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If We don’t print it, Who will?
Year of the Pig
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Lunar New Year lands in 2019 on Feb. 5. Be sure to celebrate over some delicious food with your family and friends, and pack a red envelope for some extra luck. Maybe you’ll start a new tradition of your own! Happy Lunar New Year! 新年快樂! ❖
u Chef W ong’s H e h n m in Cafe A tra-long lo ear x e g wY servin e Lunar Ne h t r o sf noodle
r signe hic de ika p a r g r ister M forme and s e is a e t@ e L h t S i Ca ccoun kly. a e e m W a ty gr for Ci t the Insta s o h now ians fullas crazy Devour Utah • february 2019 41
Year of the Pig
MANAGER’S CHOICE
We asked the boss: What’s on your plate for the Lunar New Year? BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL & CAITLIN HAWKER
N
ot just China, but Korea, Vietnam and Tibet are among those countries that observe the Lunar New Year, each with unique and symbolic dishes. To learn how each country observes the holiday, stop by your favorite East Asian eatery and ask if traditional dishes that mark the occasion are on the menu. Better yet, ask the owner or chef what he or she will be eating for Lunar New Year. Here’s what we learned when we did:
Asian Star’s steamed cod with teriyaki sauce
Along with a majestic mountain view and elegant, modern décor, Asian Star offers fusion food: “Chinese recipes and American ingredients melded together,” Gary Lee, sole owner for Asian Star’s 20-year history, explains. When its first home at the Canyon Racquet Club closed, investor Ellis Ivory approached Lee with funding to build its current location in 2006. “We were later able to pay him back,” Lee says, with tones of gratitude and pride. Asian Star’s signature dishes include honey-walnut shrimp, lemon pepper pork and Mandarin-style beef sirloin. Also popular are lettuce wraps with Chinese vegetables and stir-fried chicken. Lee’s favorite dish for Chinese New Year is also served at Asian Star: steamed cod authentically prepared with Chinese teriyaki sauce. (Carolyn Campbell) Asian Star 7588 S. Union Park Ave., Sandy 801-566-8838 AsianStarRestaurant.com 42 Devour Utah • February 2019
DEREK CARLISLE
Steamed cod with sauce
Vietnamese rolls for Tết
Chả giò are popular Vietnamese crispy egg rolls that are nearly always served for any special occasion, including Tết, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year. Phở Tô in Taylorsville serves chả giò using a mixture of minced pork, carrots, onions and mung bean noodles to fill wrappers that are then rolled, deep fried and served warm. The rolls are accompanied by a house dipping sauce—or nuoc cham—that’s a sweet citrusy fish sauce. Phở Tô also serves gỏi cuốn spring rolls that are made with rice paper and served at room temperature with peanut sauce. “I would recommend [our rolls] to anyone,” manager Don Ly says. “Everyone really likes the peanut sauce. We serve food a little differently than other restaurants.” Phở Tô’s inviting atmosphere and unique cuisine will keep you coming back for more. (Caitlin Hawker) Phở Tô 5308 S. Redwood Road, Taylorsville 801-542-0780 Facebook.com/JustForPho
Roast pork, cooked Chinese-style
Dragon Diner’s owner, Dennis Lui, was in his teens when he and his family came to the United States from China in 1967. He established Dragon Diner in 2000. This lively, bustling restaurant on Salt Lake City’s 3900 South features a mixture of Americanized Chinese cuisines. The two most popular dishes are Pon Pon chicken—a batter-fried chicken in a sweet and spicy sauce, and General Tao’s chicken—a tangy, deep-fried chicken dish. Diners also often order the beef and broccoli with snow peas, or the lo mein—offered with a choice of pork, chicken, beef, shrimp or vegetables. Lui’s personal choice for a Chinese New Year dish would be roast pork cooked Chinesestyle. (Carolyn Campbell) ❖ Dragon Diner 1331 E. 3900 South, SLC 801-272-9333 TheDragonDiner.com Devour Utah • february 2019 43
Year of the Pig
MOMOS MASTER WITH A
Baker Yangjin Sherpa shares a favorite recipe from Nepal
W
ith Utah’s boundless enthusiasm for the outdoors, it’s a point of mountaineering pride that longtime Everest-scaling record holder Apa Sherpa moved from Nepal to settle in Draper several years ago with his wife, Yangjin, so that their three children could have better educational opportunities. Fortunately for Utah foodies, Yangjin also brought her own wealth of knowledge and skills from the hospitality side of the Nepalese climbing tourism trade, having run the family’s famed Everest Summiters Lodge B&B and holding certifications in cooking and hotel management. Both Apa and Yangjin grew up in the mountain village of Thame (at 17,716 feet above sea level), a place famous for its skilled mountaineers known as sherpas, and they married in 1988. Running a home and business in the region was incredibly challenging, Yangjin says. The closest market is the Namche Bazaar, which is only open on Saturdays and is a full day’s walk from Thame; Yangjin then hired porters with yaks to deliver all of the market goods to the B&B. In 2009, they founded the Apa Sherpa Foundation (ApaSherpaFoundation.org), which supports schools in Nepal by funding teachers’ salaries, school resources and hot lunches for the children. “If there’s no tourists, there’s no money,” Yangjin says of the hardscrabble life in Thame Valley and Nepal. The foundation gives people the opportunity to survive and thrive. Although she arrived in the United States speaking very little English, Yangjin found a supportive team
44 Devour Utah • February 2019
STORY & PHOTOS BY DARBY DOYLE
On very special days, Yangjin shares recipes from Nepal, which this writer was lucky to sample during a recent staff lunch. Embracing the flavors of the continent, Nepalese momos are the comforting combination of the curry-forward spices of an Indian samosa with the pillowy texture of a Chinese dumpling. As they’re time and labor-intensive, Yangjin says she only makes them as a special-occasion treat. In Nepal, cooks use the technique of rolling out each individual momo wrapper by hand by pinching out small balls of dough. Yangjin now appreciates the convenience of using a stand mixer to prepare the dough and a pasta machine or sheeter to roll it out. If she’s in a hurry, she uses the shortcut of purchased commercial wonton or egg roll wrappers. “They are more fragile than handmade dough,” she warns of the substitution, “and they stick to the steamer and fall apart easily,” if not handled with care. A vegetarian, Yangjin also recommends replacing cooked mashed potatoes for ground meat with similarly delicious results. She enjoys cooking for her grown children (Tenjing, who studied at Utah Valley University; Pemba, who graduated from the University A life of cooking at high altitudes: Yangjin Sherpa of Utah with a degree in civil working in the pastry department engineering, and daughter Dawa, at Snowbird about 10 years ago. Her who just completed her nursing degree positive attitude and exemplary work at Westminster College) and 3 ½ year ethic—which she calls “Sherpa Pride” old grand-daughter, but says that their in seeing a job done to its finish no home kitchen sees very little influence matter the challenge—have made her a from her husband. “Apa only knows how staff favorite. “She’s brilliant,” executive to make tea and instant ramen. I do all pastry chef Anna Hirst says, “We call her the rest of the cooking,” Yangjin says ‘eagle eye,’ because nothing gets past of their arrangement. And everyone’s her.” thrilled when she’s making momos.
Nepalese Momos
With hot tomato achar dipping sauce Makes about four dozen
Mix filling ingredients well with spoon, cover and refrigerate
Add tablespoon of filling to the center of wrapper, fold in half to form a semi-circle, then pinch edges together to seal
Dough ingredients 6 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups water (approximately) 1 teaspoon salt Filling ingredients 1 pound ground beef 3-4 scallions, green parts only, chopped 1 large clove garlic, minced ¼ medium red onion, chopped 3-4 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped 1 teaspoon Nepalese spice mix* Ingredients for the achar dipping sauce 2 large tomatoes, chopped ½ medium red onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2-3 teaspoons Nepalese spice mix* 3-4 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped *Yangjin Sherpa’s custom blend of curry powder, “meat” seasoning masala, dried red chili flakes and salt, which is lightly toasted in a hot dry skillet before use.
A cooked momo ready for the spicy achar dipping sauce
Process To make the wrappers: Mix the flour with salt and about 1 ¾ cups water, stir in a large bowl; add more water in 1-2 tablespoon increments and knead until all flour is absorbed and a stiff, uniform dough forms. Cover, and let rest for at least 30 minutes. Knead the dough a few turns before making wrappers. Use a pasta machine or rolling pin to roll out dough 1/8-inch thick and cut into rounds with a 3-inch cutter.
To make the filling: Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl; mix well with hands or a spoon. Cover and refrigerate until ready for use. To assemble the momos: Add one packed tablespoon filling to the center of a wrapper, gently folding dough in half to create a semi-circle. Starting at one side and moving to the other, seal the top of the momo by pinching the edges together and creating pleats, gently pushing air away from the dumpling filling as you go. Cover completed dumplings with a tea towel to prevent drying. To cook the momos: Bring water to a low boil in the base of a large steaming pot. Liberally oil (or use non-stick spray) the steamer trays. Arrange uncooked momos in the steamer baskets leaving room between each dumpling to prevent sticking and ensure even cooking. Close the lid, and steam for about 15 minutes. While the momos are cooking, prepare the achar sauce: To a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, add the chopped tomatoes, onion and garlic. When tomatoes have released their juices and are soft, add the spice mix a half-teaspoon or so at a time to taste. Remove from heat and pour into a blender (or use an immersion blender). Add the fresh cilantro. Make sure you cover the blender lid with a towel and hold firmly to avoid explosions! Using on-off pulses, blend until just combined. Serve everything while it’s still hot and steaming. ❖ Devour Utah • february 2019 45
Year of the Pig
THINGS WE
LOVE AT THE CHINATOWN SUPERMARKET
3
BY DIANE HARTFORD
4
1 2
1
Red Envelopes
Symbolizing good luck and warding off evil spirits, it’s traditional to give red envelopes with cash inside (hong bao or lai see) during the Lunar New Year. Married people give the envelopes to singles, and older people give them to youngsters. These gifts are a symbol of reciprocity: giving, receiving and building relationships. $1.49 (pack of four)
2 Red Chopsticks
The color red symbolizes good fortune and joy and is found everywhere during Lunar New Year celebrations. Chopsticks are the dining utensils of choice for many Asians cultures, so picking up a few sets of these red chopsticks are sure to get the Year of the Pig off to a prosperous start. $1.79
46 Devour Utah • February 2019
3 Lucky Candy
The candy box plays an important role in the Lunar New Year celebration (see p. 22). When friends and family come to visit during the holiday, the candy box is offered along with blessings. Lucky Candy represents money and the sweetness of life. The candies are individually wrapped and strawberry flavored. $3.29
4 Frozen Rice Cakes
Rice cakes are added to stirfries or stews during Lunar New Year celebrations. Their soft and chewy texture is a key ingredient in Korean tteokguk (rice cake soup), served on Seollal (Korean New Year). They also can be be pan-fried or charred under the broiler before finished with a spicy sauce. $2.69 ❖ Chinatown Supermarket 3390 S. State, South Salt Lake 801-906-8788 ChinatownSupermarkets.com
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Year of the Pig
COOK, EAT CELEBRATE &
Lunar New Year feasting made easy: Take a cooking class BY HEATHER L. KING | PHOTOS BY DIANE SHEYA, SLICE
“I
don’t think that people realize all the food symbolism around Chinese New Year,” Diane Sheya, owner and culinary director of Salt Lake Institute of Culinary Education (SLICE) in South Salt Lake, says. Chinese New Year, also called Lunar New Year or Spring Festival, is a time of togetherness, when family and friends gather to feast and welcome the new year. This year, SLICE has put together a special Chinese New Year cooking class in honor of the Year of the Pig. The threehour, hands-on workshop aims to bring new and old friends together around the most symbolic (and delicious) foods of the Lunar New Year. During the class, students will learn how to prepare four dishes and the symbolism behind each one. Then, you’ll sit down to dinner enjoy the fruits of your labor in addition to a special steamed fish prepared just for your meal.
CELEBRATE CHINESE NEW YEAR: THE YEAR OF THE PIG WORKSHOP
Feb. 6, 6-9 p.m. $85 per person Salt Lake Culinary Center 2233 S. 300 East, South Salt Lake 801-464-0113 Register at SaltLakeCulinaryCenter.com SLICE offers instructor-led cooking experiences for every skill level—from the beginner who is interested in knife basics to the home chef looking to spice up their meals with Indian curries or ramen to the emerging culinary professional seeking a position in the hospitality and culinary industry. To spark your interest in the class, SLICE instructors have shared the following recipe with Devour readers (Hint: it’s one of the dishes you’ll prepare in the class.) 48 Devour Utah • February 2019
Stuff your egg rolls with good fortune
CHINESE SPRING ROLL RECIPE
Courtesy of SLICE Ingredients 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon rice wine or white wine ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 pound ground chicken 2 tablespoons cooking oil, divided 2 cloves garlic finely minced 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1-2 stalks green onion, chopped ½ head of small cabbage, about 8 ounces, shredded 2 carrots, thin julienne cut 2 tablespoons oyster sauce 50 frozen spring roll wrappers, defrosted 2 cups cooking oil—vegetable, canola or peanut oil for deep frying For the Cornstarch Slurry 1 tablespoon cornstarch ¼ cup water
PROCESS
Prepare the Filling In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, wine, pepper and cornstarch. Add in the chicken and mix well. Let marinate for 10 minutes (or up to overnight in the refrigerator). Heat a wok or large sauté pan over high heat. When hot, swirl in 1 tablespoon of the cooking oil. Stir fry the ground chicken until browned. Remove browned ground chicken from wok to a bowl and set aside. Wipe the wok clean and turn heat to medium. When just starting to get hot, swirl in the remaining cooking oil. Add in the green onion, garlic and ginger and cook for 30 seconds. Take care not to burn these aromatics. Add in the carrots and cabbage. Stir well and turn the heat to mediumhigh. Stir fry the vegetables for 2 minutes, or until the carrots have softened. Add the cooked chicken back into the wok, stir well. Add in the oyster sauce and toss again.
Add a tablespoon of filling to center of egg roll wrapper
Fold up one corner of egg roll wrapper
Fold wrapper sides across the first fold
Spread mixture on a baking sheet and let cool. Prop up the baking sheet on one end so that any liquid collects on the other side. When the mixture is cool, discard the liquid. Mix cornstarch slurry: in a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and water. Wrapping spring rolls Open the egg-roll-wrapper package, cover with a barely damp towel to prevent drying out. Add 1 tablespoon of filling to egg roll and roll up. Secure with cornstarch slurry. Keep rolled egg rolls covered with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Frying spring rolls When ready to fry, heat 1 ½ inch of oil in a wok or deep, heavy skillet to 350 F. Carefully slide in the egg rolls, a few at a time, to the oil to fry. Turn the egg rolls occasionally to brown evenly and fry for about 3 minutes. Let cool on rack. Repeat with remaining.
Notes Use ground pork, beef, chicken or turkey in this recipe. Chinese rice wine is an optional ingredient, substitute with dry sherry (or just leave it out). Freezing spring rolls: After rolling the spring rolls (but before frying), insert them in a freezer bag, in a single layer. Try not to overcrowd. Close bag, freeze. Frying frozen spring rolls: When ready to cook, you’ll go from freezer to frying, no defrosting necessary. Defrosting the spring rolls will make them soggy, wrinkly and ugly. Prepare your deep fryer (or wok with frying oil). When oil is 350 F, use long tongs and gently lower a few frozen spring rolls into the oil. Be careful as any ice crystals will splatter in the oil. Fry egg rolls in hot oil for about three minutes
Roll filling up and secure edges with cornstarch slurry
Reheating leftover spring rolls: Heat your toaster oven or oven to 300 F. Place spring rolls on a rack and into the oven. Bake for about 5-7 minutes, until crispy. ❖ Devour Utah • february 2019 49
Year of the Pig
GINA LAMBIASE
ON YOUR DOORSTEP
Need a dish for Lunar New Year? Happy Dumpling will deliver
W
hether you call them momos, potstickers or dumplings, one thing is for certain: They are delicious. Stuffed with meat or vegetables, dumplings have long been a community staple loaded with good fillings and good fortune. In the Chinese culture, dumplings are one of the most important foods made and eaten during the Lunar New Year—symbolizing wealth and celebrating bringing the family together to make them. Some say that the more dumplings you eat, the more money you can make in the new year—and who wouldn’t take that chance if it’s only a matter of eating another delicious dumpling! Here in Salt Lake City, a new dumpling delivery service, Happy Dumpling, is owned and run by Kate Stalsberg, a Utahtrained chef, and Rabin Gurung, a native of Darjeeling, India. This husband and wife team brought their culinary training and heritage together into one delicious package this past August when they began making dozens of dumplings to deliver to Utahns. The couple use recipes passed down through generations of Gurung’s family where the tradition of making dumplings was shared with Stalsberg by Gurung’s ama (mom) and didi (sister). “It was the best dumpling I’ve ever had,” she recalls. “The filling was so simple but so flavorful.” Because the family recipe wasn’t written down, the base recipe for Happy Dumpling products was developed mostly by taste and is now scaled to make 10 pounds of meat (beef and pork with chicken on the near-term horizon) for each batch—
50 Devour Utah • February 2019
BY HEATHER L. KING
which makes approximately 350 dumplings. “People gravitate toward the pork because it’s so fatty and delicious,” Stalsberg says. “But our veggie is getting more popular, too.” Dough for each dumpling is rolled and pleated by hand by Gurung—who says he’s been practicing the art for 31 years. Additionally, all five sauces that are served with every momo are housemade in the commercial kitchen the couple rents each Thursday. If you’re a fan of spicy condiments, try the Ama G’s salsa, an adaptation of Gurung’s mom’s version that features five cups of a chili native to Darjeeling with heat comparable to habanero peppers. Once all the dumplings are built, they are cooked, cooled and packaged in a reuseable container. Happy Dumpling orders include 20 dumplings and two 2-ounce sauces. The dumplings can be microwave steamed in the provided container, pan-fried or deep fried. To place an order for delivery, visit the website and choose from beef, pork or vegetable dumplings and two of five sauces including Ama G’s salsa, tangy ginger soy, spicy garlic soy, spicy peanut or sweet and salty peanut. Orders can be delivered from 300 West to Wasatch Boulevard and South Temple to 9600 South on Friday or Saturday between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., or 2-6 p.m. ❖ Happy Dumpling 801-635-4818 HappyDumplingSLC.com
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Spirit Guide
local barTENDERS show their Japanese flair BY DARBY DOYLE
R
emember the 1988 film Cocktail, starring Tom Cruise? Lots of flash and dazzle, Technicolorhued liquors, the louder and more raucous the bar, the better. The film captured a time in U.S. cocktail history when the popularity of craft whiskey was waning, and Americans were ordering more vodkabased beverages, with sweet multi-ingredient martinis and hot pink Cosmopolitans being the signature drinks of the 1980s and ’90s. In dramatic contrast, Japanese bar culture through the latter half of the 20th century concentrated upon precision, grace and attention to minute details of technique. In Tokyo’s famed Ginza bar-saturated neighborhood, suit-jacketed staff defined cocktail formality, and becoming a respected bartender required (and still requires) years of apprenticeship. In a bit of cultural cross-pollination, American bartenders became fascinated with the hospitality and
entrancing showmanship of Tokyo’s top-shelf cocktail culture in the late 1990s, probably best-exemplified by the famed New York speakeasy, Angel’s Share. The East Village bar’s patrons vied for the opportunity to have a cocktail crafted over the course of 15-20 minutes, with ice for each drink cut by hand to order, an exacting technique copied from Japanese pros. In this century, the demand for Japanese whisky worldwide has escalated exponentially, and American consumers are more familiar with Asian products like umeshu (Japanese fruit wine) and shochu distilled spirits. In Utah, restaurants and bars are starting to encourage intensive spirits education, such as at Tsunami Restaurant and Sushi Bar (TsunamiUtah. com), where staff “sake ambassadors”receive extensive training. In this month’s Spirit Guide, we talked to SLCbased chefs, sommeliers and bartenders about Japanese techniques and ingredients inspiring them right now.
Devour Utah • february 2019 53
Spirit Guide
DARBY DOYLE
KYOTO: SAKE FLIGHT AND LYCHEE MARTINI
KYOTO LYCHEE NUT MARTINI
3 ounces Hakushika Tanuki Junmai sake 2 ounces lychee syrup 1 ounce simple syrup 1-2 drops fresh lemon juice
1080 E. 1300 South, SLC, 801-487-3525, KyotoSLC.com “I’m completely preoccupied with the perfect bite,” sommelier and spirits educator Jim Santangelo says of developing the sake program at Kyoto. “That’s why I love sushi so much. Wrapped little bundles of delight, perfectly balanced with flavors by a masterful sushi chef. It frankly doesn’t get any better in the moment of a sushi bite paired with sake.” Santangelo recommends sampling sake to explore your own preferences, noting his own favorites are Junmai Ginjo grade, “which has a high percentage of milled or polished rice before brewing,” he says. “The higher the polish, typically, the more complex the product.” Santangelo suggests that all your sakes have a slight chill. Kyoto sushi chef Peggi Ince-Whiting recommends trying the threesample sake flight selected by Santangelo, including Momokowa Ruby Junmai Ginjo, Hakushika Tanuki Junmai and unfiltered Momokawa Pearl Nigori Junmai Ginjo Genshu. Tanuki sake also makes an appearance in Kyoto’s most popular cocktail on the menu, the Lychee Nut Martini. “The delicate flavors go well with sushi. It’s relatively mild, so it doesn’t compete with the subtle flavors of fish,” Ince-Whiting says.
Lychee Nut Martini
Shake all ingredients well with ice. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a skewered lychee nut.
DARBY DOYLE
Santangelo recommends Rihaku’s Wandering Poet (Utah DABC, $34.95) with tropical and orchard fruit right out of the glass. “When you get this sake to the palate, flavors of banana and ripe honeydew roll across the tongue only to be washed away by crisp green apple like acidity leaving you with a lingering herb note finish.” Santangelo also says this sake is a great pairing beyond sushi, “Next time you have a big salad and grilled chicken or baked fish, grab a bottle and enjoy.”
54 Devour Utah • February 2019
POST OFFICE PLACE: AWAMORI OKINAWA
DEREK CARLISLE
Okinawa Sazerac
16 W. Market St., SLC, 801-519-9595 Widely recognized as one of Utah’s most knowledgeable Japanese spirits experts, Takashi and Post Office Place manager Rich Romney has made bringing in rare products to Salt Lake City a priority. Romney and bar manager Crystal Daniels have curated an ambitious Japanese whisky selection and have brought in unusual shochu (midrange ABV spirits made from sweet potato, barley or rice), sake and beers. “About half of our liquor wall at Post Office Place is special order,” says Romney of the selection. His personal triumphs? “Bringing in the Hibiki 12 year [whisky]; we saw the writing on the wall,” Romney says, of escalating customer demand, and they persisted in building up a stock. He’s also a fan of Japanese beer, and spent three years working with an importer to finally bring Hitachino yuzu lager to Takashi. We discussed the fascinating history of awamori, a spirit unique to chef/owner Takashi Gibo’s home province of Okinawa, Japan. Unlike sake, which is brewed from Japanese short grain rice, awamori have been made for more than 500 years in the region by distilling fermented Thai long rice. Says Romney, “They traditionally age the awamori in clay pots, which are lined up outside the distilleries and serve as advertising. Some producers even age their pots under sea water,” he says, for added nuance. With Daniels, Romney developed the “Okinawa Sazerac” a variation on a classic New Orleans Sazerac cocktail to highlight the distinctive flavors of Awamori Okinawa and Japanese Mars Iwai Whisky, complemented with Benedictine, Peychaud’s bitters and absinthe. Devour Utah • february 2019 55
Spirit Guide
MIKE WRIGHT’S GIN HIGHBALL
Water Witch, 163 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-462-0967, WaterWitchBar.com “You’re walking into the realm of a master,” when approaching a professional Tokyo cocktail bartender, says Water Witch barman Mike Wright. “Their attention to detail and technique is phenomenal, and their job is recognized in the culture as having a high-level skill set.” During his most recent three-week visit in 2018, Wright concentrated on punk-rock music venues and tiny cocktail bars of Tokyo’s famed Golden Gai. “There are over 200 bars crammed into an area about the size of a football field,” he says, with each bar averaging about six seats, total. Wright was expecting to see plenty of Japan’s go-to drink, the whisky highball, as “the highball culture is huge, but there’s some ‘wow’ factor with hand-cut ice, housemade soda and maybe just a touch of citrus.” He was surprised, however, to see that gin has become a big hit in Japan, along with European aperitifs like gentian-forward bitter Suze French liqueur. He stirred up for me an off-menu gin highball using those ingredients as his inspiration, served in a ceramic cup he brought back from Tokyo.
GIN-LEMONGRASS HIGHBALL
Stir all ingredients together in a glass with hand-cut ice cubes. Garnish with lemon zest, brandied cherry and tapioca spheres.
56 Devour Utah • February 2019
DARBY DOYLE
1 ounce Botanist gin ¼ ounce lemongrass infused simple-syrup ½ ounce Suze liqueur ⅓ ounce Carpano Bianco vermouth
JOSH NOVASKI’S TIPS OF THE TRADE
Bar X, 155 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-2287, BeerBarSLC.com “I spent a ton of money on bar tools,” says Bar X and High West Distillery bartender Josh Novaski of his most recent visit to Tokyo in 2017. “They make these beautiful ice picks, jiggers and cobbler shakers,” he says, all of which are used to create drinks with precision and care. Having spent time in Japan including a five-day deep dive into Tokyo’s neighborhood bar culture, Novaski can’t wait to get back. “In Japan, there are niche bars that revolve around very specific experiences,” he says, noting as an example Bar Ben Fiddich, one of Tokyo’s legendary cocktail clubs. There, bartenders create reproductions of liqueurs such as Campari or Chartreuse by selecting dozens of canisters containing homegrown plants and roots, grinding them with a mortar and pestle and adding distilled base spirits to order. And yes, this takes 20 minutes or more. As many bars are extremely tiny (by American standards) and have a small cadre of regulars, venues rarely advertise their location and are notoriously difficult to find. Novaski started with a handful of spots pulled from an online PUNCH City Guide and a list procured from a well-traveled Austin, Texas, bartending colleague but says it was Japanese bartenders who ultimately recommended his favorite spots. “I would ask them where I should go next, and they would hand-write directions and the name so that I could find it more easily,” he says. It inspired Novaski to adopt the practice as his own. When customers ask him for suggestions, he now writes down the information for them. “Small gestures go a long way in hospitality,” he says. ❖
Devour Utah • february 2019 57
The Green Scene
A Tradition of Kindness
Vegan kung pao chicken
This vegetarian Chinese eatery lives up to its name
M
ention Long Life Vegi House to any local, and you’re sure to stoke up nostalgia. In the ’90s, before Salt Lake City became a vegan hotspot, Long Life Vegi House was the place for vegetarian Chinese food. This quaint restaurant had a mellow, laid-back vibe, the servings were plentiful, and the prices low. In the past two decades, not much has changed. Qing Li bought the restaurant in 2010 and made a few cosmetic improvements but kept the cozy charm as well as the menu. Like the original owners, Qing is Buddhist, and the meatless dishes reflect the Buddhist concept of ahimsa, nonviolence toward all beings. The menu proudly states that its beef, chicken and pork ingredients are made from soybean and wheat. This isn’t cutting-edge vegan meat made in Silicon Valley; rather, it’s good old seitan, or wheat meat, as it was known in the ’90s. There’s also plenty of dishes featuring vegetables and tofu. Raised vegetarian, Qing is passionate about offering diners healthy vegetarian and vegan food. Seafood is the only animal protein you’ll find on the menu. In a growing city such as Salt Lake, take comfort in the fact that you can still buy lunch at Long Life Vegi House for less than a latte at a new trendy coffee shop. The popular lunch special comes with a cup of soup (egg drop or vegan hot and
sour), a generous helping of brown rice, and a hefty spring roll served with sweet and sour sauce dotted with yellow spicy mustard for swirling and dunking—all for only $5.99. Over the past two decades, the price might have gone up a dollar. You can choose from a mind-boggling 28 dishes—everything from Monk-Style Vegetables to decadent battered and fried lemon chicken, and my longtime favorite, Kung Pao chicken— spicy and loaded with fresh chopped zucchini, celery, and crunchy peanuts. The luncheon special is served weekdays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. The dinner menu has good deals, too. The family dinner, at $9.25 per person, comes with mu shu vegetable, sweet and sour pork, and vegetable fried rice. The Chinese characters on this landmark eatery’s red and yellow sign translate to “Long Life,” and it has proven its longevity. In a city known for its plant-based options, it’s a treat to visit a pioneer of the vegan movement. Long Life Vegi House 1353 E. 3300 South, SLC 801-467-1111 LongLifeVegiHouseUt.com
Gather Your Luck With Vegan Spring Rolls and Faux Fish
BRANDON KELCE
Coconut Tree Brand Cha Gio Chay
58 Devour Utah • February 2019
DEREK CARLISLE
BY AMANDA ROCK
Qing Li celebrates the Chinese New Year at home with vegetarian dumplings and a gift of a bright red envelope filled with money. You don’t have to know how to cook great Chinese food to celebrate the Lunar New Year. Tay-Do Supermarket in South Salt Lake has everything you need. Reminiscent of golden bars, spring rolls are a tasty way to welcome prosperity in the new year. Pick up a package Coconut Tree Brand Cha Gio Chay, which includes 19 vegan spring rolls for only $4.95. For the main course, fish is a traditionally lucky dish, and there’s plenty of faux fish in the sea at Tay-Do. Wrapped in seaweed for an extra fishy flavor, VeriSoy Vegan Fresh Fish ($10.95) is a delicious way to bring luck to your new year. Tay-Do Supermarket, 3825 S. Redwood Road, SLC, 801-972-4700 ❖
Devour Utah • february 2019 59
60 Devour Utah • February 2019