VOL. 4 NO. 4 • APRIL 2018 • PASTA FREE COPY
EARTH SPIRITS P. 44 TABLE TALK P. 58
Devour Utah • April 2018 1
tequila all day ay everyd
serving lunch, dinner & weekend brunch
270 South Rio Grande St. In the Historic Rio Grande Train Station www.riograndecafeslc.com
2 Devour Utah â€˘ April 2018
A LI I C SI uth
A 300 Stah C I ast 3 ek, U 236
SI CI 45 LI 3 Sa 6 S A H
lt L ig (80 ake hla M n 1) 27 City d D 402 , Uta r 23
E e -7 0 illcr 202 2 0 M 5) 8 (3
uth Salt Lake City, Utah (801) 528-3275
DOLCE SICILIA 1048 E 2100 So
S ICILIA M IA U TAH.COM
Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018 3
CONTENTS Noodle Nation Get to know a culture by its pasta BY BRIAN FRYER
Stanza’s linguine with lobster & shrimp BY JERRE WROBLE
14 22 24 26 29
A SLC pasta tour BY HEATHER L. KING
A Look Back Utah’s pasta king BY BRIAN FRYER
The Spread Season’s Bistro
BY AMANDA ROCK
It’s Tradition! Tortellini recipe BY DARBY DOYLE
Pasta Pantry Things we love BY JERRE WROBLE
4 Devour Utah • April 2018
Wheels of Fire
The Mirendas bring Sicily to Utah BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
40 42 44 58
Know your noodles BY DEREK CARLISLE
Taste of Spring Pasta primavera BY JERRE WROBLE
Green & Serene Earth Day cocktails BY DARBY DOYLE
Server Dillion Chase BY SARAH ARNOFF
Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018 5
DEVOUR Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS EDITORIAL Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
JERRE WROBLE SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN SARAH ARNOFF, CAROLYN CAMPBELL, DARBY DOYLE, BRIAN FRYER, HEATHER L. KING, AMANDA ROCK
Brian Fryer is a native Utahn with a communications degree from Utah State University. He’s served as an editor for McGraw-Hill Construction publications, Intermountain Healthcare and the Park Record newspaper. A food enthusiast, he enjoys cooking and spending time with his family in West Jordan.
AMBER BILLINGSLEY, NIKI CHAN JOSH SCHEUERMAN, JOHN TAYLOR
PRODUCTION Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER JOSH SCHEUERMAN, SOFIA CIFUENTES VAUGHN ROBISON
BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager Office Administrators Technical Director
PAULA SALTAS DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS
Amanda Rock is a freelance food writer and guiding light for vegans and vegetarians in search of where to dine in the Greater SLC area. Her blog, amanda-eats-slc.blogspot.com, covers the vegetarian beat and even features a few easy, tasty recipes. @amandaeatssaltlakecity
MARKETING Marketing Manager
CIRCULATION Circulation Manager
SALES Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER ANNE BAILEY, LISA DORELLI, ALEX MARKHAM, MIEKA SAWATZKI, JEREMIAH SMITH
Carolyn Campbell has been writing for Copperfield Media since the 1980s. She’s written numerous cover stories for Salt Lake City Weekly and garnered awards from the Society of Professional Journalists. She is the author of three nationally published books and 800 magazine articles.
Cover Photo Illustration by: Derek Carlisle Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2018. All rights reserved @DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • April 2018
Sarah Arnoff Yeoman is a Utah-based freelance photojournalist covering everything from in-depth stories on indigenous communities and environment to essays on local butchers and soccer teams. You can follow her work on Instagram @arnoffoto and at SarahArnoff.com
A family of restaurants with
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!
Chabaar Beyond Thai
Tea Rose Diner
87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100
65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111
Siam Noodle Bar
5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT
1984 E. Murray Holladay Rd, UT 801-676-9300
Bottom floor in bldg. 1 in IMC Hospital
Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM
Devour Utah • April 2018 7
From Our Editor
Must LOVE Pasta
’m a sucker for well-conceived April Fool’s Day pranks. Readers “long in the tooth” might recall the BBC prank from the early days of television. On April 1, 1957, the British network aired a short documentary about the Swiss spaghetti tree harvest. Narrated by Richard Dimbleby (akin to Steve Kroft of 60 Minutes fame), the film showed Swiss farmers picking strands of spaghetti from trees and bushes and laying them out in the sun to dry. The abundant crop, experts on the reel said, was due to a mild winter and the blight of “spaghetti weevil” abating. A joke for a more innocent time. It would be fun to resurrect it for Devour’s first-ever pasta issue, but it’d be nigh impossible to convince our discerning readers that pasta grows on trees. Many of you have been “growing your own” pasta (i.e., rolling and cutting and/or extruding it from your own personal pasta machines) for years, and you know your bucatini from conchiglie rigate (and if you don’t, see p. 39-40). So, we’ll just have to play it straight. Which means everything that Brian Fryer writes in “Noodle Nation” is on the level, highlighting, as he does, local pasta dishes with roots in Germany, Thailand and Italy. In “From Mines to Macaroni,” Fryer pays homage to Utah’s Pasta King, Antonio Ferro, who, in the early 1900s, produced 40 varieties of pasta at the Western Macaroni building in downtown Salt Lake City before shuttering the plant in the 1940s. It could be argued that Italians didn’t invent pasta but their addition of tomatoes, oils and herbs helped make it Italy’s national dish. That’s why, to really appreciate pasta, from its preparation to its presentation, it’s vital to visit authentic Italian eateries and let those chefs show you how it’s done. In “Viva l’Italia,” Heather L. King highlights a tour of Italian regional cuisine that can be enjoyed, sans passport, around the Salt Lake Valley. Carolyn Campbell adds on to King’s tour with “The Sicilians Have Landed,” a look at the Mirenda family-operated Sicilian eateries cropping up around town. In “The Spead,” Amanda Rock checks out Seasons Plant-Based Bistro and finds that the flavor and richness of its plant-based pasta rival some of the best in town. Speaking of eating (and/or drinking) your vegetables, Darby Doyle gives a nod to Earth Day with her “Green and Serene” cocktail recipes. Doyle also recaps an afternoon spent with Trio pastry chef Robert Angelilli and his mother, Radiana, learning to make mushroom tortellini. She shares Radiana’s recipe in “La Nonna’s Noodles.” And, for anyone who has savored the sweet taste of spring in Adam Vickers’ pasta primavera, you’ll be pleased to glean the wisdom of Tuscany’s executive chef in Devour This Recipe. Finally, we’re happy to include Sarah Arnoff’s interview with Stoneground server, Dillion (Dillicious) Chase, in the Last Bite. Chase combines his interests in architecture, world travel and blogging to create a unique dining experience for Stoneground customers, to which we say, salute! Thanks for making dining out such a special occasion. We hope you enjoy this ode to pasta as much as we enjoyed rolling it out. And, as luck would have it, our printing company has just received its first shipment of food-scented printing paper. If you hold the issue close to your nose and fan the pages, you’re likely to smell a lovely Bolognese aroma. Should you tear off the upper left corner on this page, and let it rest under your tongue, pesto flavorings should be activated. Next month, we hope to offer wine and cheese flavors. Happy April, all! ❖ —Jerre Wroble
Correction: In the March 2018 Devour Utah, the name of a Japanese cook and mochi-maker Aiko Hamada was misspelled. We regret the error. 8 Devour Utah • April 2018
Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018 9
noodle Get to know a culture by twirling its pasta By Brian Fryer Photos by john taylor
—that simple alchemy of flour, water and sometimes eggs—is a staple of cuisines throughout the world. From a humble ramen thrown together in a college-dorm kitchen to something extraordinary in the hands of a master chef, there are seemingly endless ways to create pasta dishes that both fill the hungry void and live long in memory. Good pasta starts with good ingredients, but from there, as the following selections show, it’s all about what’s added to it: the sauce, spices, proteins and more. 10 Devour Utah • April 2018
Pasta duo at cucina toscana
drunken noodles at Laan Na Thai
Intoxicating Rice Noodles
Every morning for nearly 16 years, the cooks in the prep kitchen of Cucina Toscana start their day with the same ritual: Take a hand-mixed filling of ricotta cheese and spinach and drop spoonfuls onto squares of thin, fresh pasta dough. Fold the dough into a puffy triangle and seal the edges to make an individual ravioli. Then dunk them into boiling water before tossing them into a pan of sauce for finishing, which range from a creamy four-cheese blend to a spicy all’arrabbiata or a simple housemade marinara. One preparation that brings patrons back for more is the signature sauce of melted butter with fresh sage leaves and a small splash of the marinara. A young patron referred to the dish as “little pillows of heaven.” When paired with the housemade potato gnocchi, you have Pasta Duo, the perfect pasta course.
On the north side of Pioneer Park, you’ll find Laan Na Thai cranking big flavors out of their compact restaurant space. Owners Yupin and Wichai Charoen bought the space three years ago and now offer Thai favorites daily, but the drunken noodles are made to order. Just choose the protein and watch wife Yupin work the wok, adding fresh vegetables and Thai basil to the sizzling, thick rice noodles before ladling on a mixture of oyster and soy sauce (with a little sugar, according to husband Wichai). A side of dried chili flakes and a lime complete this crave-inducing dish.
Cucina Toscana 282 S. 300 West, SLC 801-328-3463 ToscanaSLC.com
Laan Na Thai 336 W. 300 South, SLC 801-363-2717 LaanNaThai.com Devour Utah • April 2018 11
EVERY BITE CONSIDERED At BGR, fresh is more than an adjective--it’s a mindset. From the top of the top bun, to the lettuce, 6oz of proprietary blend of meat, and bottom bun, we don’t take any shortcuts. Our burgers are grilled to order over an open flame, prepared with garden fresh toppings, and served with your preferred temperature: rare, medium, well-done or anything in between.
w w w. b g r t h e b u r g e r j o i n t. c o m 801-487-6301 1202 E Wilmington Ave, Ste 120 Salt Lake UT 84106
12 Devour Utah • April 2018
Locally & Family owned!
Specializing in jewelry repair, authentic jewels, high quality diamonds, engagement rings. 801-583-2700 | 1346 S. 2100 E. SLC, UT www.redfordjewelers.com
spätzle with elk at adolPH’s restaurant
Tarragon ravioli at fireside on regent
The Hare Affair
You could say that change is the only constant in Park City’s dynamic restaurant scene. But for more than 30 years, Adolph’s has remained a haven of international cuisine for locals and visitors. Owner and chef Adolph Imboden might have switched a few things on his menu over the years, but there’s been one constant from Day 1, and that’s the housemade spätzle (which translates from German to “little sparrows”). These pasta-like dumplings favored in the European Alps are served with veal and game dishes such as venison and elk chops. But many regulars order the slightly crispy, chewy spätzle as a side dish.
Handmade pastas are a regular star on the menu at Fireside on Regent, where chef/owner Michael Richey’s team makes several extruded or sheet pastas each day. Richey likes fresh pasta because it can be cooked to order quickly and it allows him to add seasonal herbs or spices to the traditional semolina flour dough. “There is an unmistakable difference when you are eating fresh pasta made that day,” Richey says. He uses ingredients that are “as local as possible,” working with four area farmers for products. He likes to use game with the pastas—such as rabbit—and one happy result of his daring cuisine is the parsley and tarragon ravioli, filled with braised rabbit and ricotta, in a rabbit and sage consommé.
Adolph’s Restaurant 1500 Kearns Blvd., Park City 435-649-7177 AdolphsRestaurantParkCity.com
Fireside on Regent 126 S. Regent St., SLC 801-359-4011 FiresideOnRegent.com
Devour Utah • April 2018 13
The Pasta Issue
Savor the outstanding regional cuisines of Italy without having to pack a bag NIKI CHAN
By Heather L. King
taly offers some of the most delicious and diverse food the world over. From north to south, dishes change drastically depending on whether proteins come from the land or sea and on how each type of pasta is formed to best hold each region’s ideal sauce. You used to have to book a flight and spend a couple of weeks traversing the countryside in search of these distinct regional flavors. But with the addition of five new Italian restaurants in Salt Lake County over the past few years, along with a longstanding favorite, Utah diners can now sample authentic Italian fare without having to apply for a passport. Let’s take our taste buds on the road.
bigoli con ragu di Anatra at veneto 14 Devour Utah • April 2018
NIKI CHAN NIKI CHAN
veneto’s amy and marco stevanoni
We start in northern Italy where butter (not olive oil) is king, and rich sauces and stuffed pastas flood menus along with excellent pork and veal. The inland lakes of the region offer up freshwater fish in addition to duck and other wild birds, which frequently make an appearance on the table. Head to Veneto (370 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-359-0708, VenetoSLC.com) near Liberty Park to experience the homey feel of an upscale Italian residence in Veneto, Italy. Owners Amy and Marco Stevanoni endeavor to introduce Utahns to Marco’s birthplace of Verona. Here, the pasta course is bursting with options. Fresh egg dough lends itself to both delicate and bold flavors. Try the subtle ravioli cacio e pere filled with tangy pecorino, creamy marscarpone and slightly sweet pears—or go bold with the housemade bigoli con ragu di Anatra. The long, thick extruded pasta is served al dente and topped with a standout duck ragu. Drier than a typical sauce, the ragu is made with minced duck and vegetables that offer Utahns a satisfying and flavorful introduction to this northern Italian dish.
Devour Utah • April 2018 15
The Pasta Issue
16 Devour Utah • April 2018
Although Tuscan dishes might be considered rustic in their preparation—focusing on the finest quality ingredients that celebrate the flavors of each element—one shouldn’t mistake the simple presentation for anything but a gateway to spectacular flavors. Diners are introduced to this region by two men who have been long-time fixtures in Utah hearts and palates. Valter Nassi came onto the Salt Lake scene when he opened Il Sansovino. He later worked his convivial magic at Cucina Toscana before opening Valter’s Osteria (173 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-521-4563, ValtersOsteria.com). This whitetablecloth establishment might only cross your mind for special occasions due to the price point but know that your evening will be made memorable by Nassi and his team. A significant portion of the menu highlights pasta—from the tutta pasta di Valter, which features a duo of housemade gnocchi and ravioli selections that change daily to the linguine alle vongole (linguine with clam sauce). Fresh clams swim among al dente pasta, fresh basil and a silky seafood reduction sauce. If fish isn’t your focus, try Valter’s mom’s special porcini and meat sauce with rigatoni.
porcini and meat sauce with rigatoni at valter’s osteria
Celeste (5468 S. 900 East, SLC, 801290-2913, CelesteRistorante.com) in Murray is also home base to a man who needs no introduction. As the original Michelangelo owner and chef, Paolo Celeste returns to Salt Lake delivering traditional preparations and quality ingredients in an authentically rustic Tuscan style. At Celeste, breads and pasta are housemade, bottles of the restaurantâ€™s own extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic are delivered to the table, sauces are slow-simmered and even the wine menu is representative of the region. Sample Celesteâ€™s handiwork with flour and eggs in the ravioli incavolati in which ricotta cheese and kale are encased in pockets of toothsome ravioli and bathed in a mellow butter and sage sauce. For an even richer and more filling option, order the gnocchi al granchio for pillowy, housemade nuggets enveloped in a creamy pink tomato sauce and studded with lump crab meat.
gnocchi al granchio at Celeste
Devour Utah â€˘ April 2018 17
801.355.2294 | 216 East 500 South, SLC
18 Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018
The Pasta Issue
Molise is the youngest region in southern Italy where the cuisine is dominated by the aromatic herbs that grow there. Spicy salami, lamb and goat dishes and pasta with hearty sauces are Molise’s signature. And what better place to experience them than at Caffé Molise (55 W. 100 South, SLC, 801-364-8833, CaffeMolise.com)—which has provided locals and visitors to Salt Lake with inspired Italian cuisine since Utah’s dining scene was in its infancy—and which will soon move to a new downtown location (404 S. West Temple)? Caffé Molise owner and chef Fred Moesinger has endeavored to present authentic dishes such as ravioli with eggplant (below) and with pumpkin (bottom) from the Molise region. His pollo alla gratella (tender, grilled chicken breast marinated in garlic oil and balsamic vinegar and served over pasta with a tangy sauce of artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and gorgonzola cheese) is an always-stellar order at lunchtime. For spicier options, Caffé Molise offers the orecchiette al Salsiccia that aptly represents the region’s finest culinary traditions. Spicy Italian sausage is tossed with al dente orecchiette pasta along with an earthy mix of wild mushrooms, onions and tomatoes for a supremely satisfying dish.
Ravioli con Melanzane at caffÉ molise
Ravioli con Zucca at caffÉ molise
Devour Utah • April 2018 19
A N F O O D H E AV E N G E RaM n Delicatessen & Restauran t
TONA tonarestaurant.com SUSHI BAR AND GRILL 2013 - 2016
Best Odgen Restaurant
2015 & 2016
2012 - 2016
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi
20 W. 200 S. • (801) 355-3891 • Catering available Open Mon-Wed: 9am-6pm Thu-Sat: 9am-9pm
Carmine’s Welcome to
Scallops with Grilled Shrimp on Asparagus Puree
Happy Ea s t e r
Carmine and his Champagne Selection
2477 E Fort Union Blvd, SLC 84121 | 801.948.4468 carmines.restaurant 20 Devour Utah • April 2018
The Pasta Issue
Seafood & Sunshine
In southern Italy, visitors find sunshine, seafood and tomatoes in vast supply along with fresh mozzarella and burrata in addition to a variety of firm cheeses. Instead of fresh egg pasta, dried pastas are more the norm with generous selections of red sauces. At Carmine’s (6926 S. Promenade Drive, Cottonwood Heights, 801921-9048, Carmines.restaurant), chef and owner Carmine Delli Bovi handpulls creamy balls of mozzarella and burrata to top pizzas and appetizers and imports Caputo flour for all his pizza crusts. His work in the kitchen delivers delicious masterpieces one dish at a time. Presentations range from the simple burrata prosciutto e melone appetizer that depends on the sweet and salty combination of quality ingredients to the more complex Carmine’s pizza, which melds a sweet and fatty bacon marmalade with peppery arugula and fresh mozzarella. Pastas like classic lasagna with layers of cheese and tomatoes and carbonara with bacon and a creamy egg sauce all make star appearances while two selections of housemade gnocchi—one with a rich four-cheese sauce and another with tangy marinara and fresh mozzarella—take center stage. Per Noi Trattoria (3005 S. Highland Drive, SLC, 916-649-3663, Facebook.com/pernoislc) recently moved from the Sugar House neighborhood where it thrived for the past five years to a larger, more centrally situated spot on Highland Drive. No matter the location, what remains constant at Per Noi (meaning “for us”) is the focus on recipes handed down from two families. Per Noi chef and owner Francesco Montino does his mother and grandmother proud by serving up high-quality dishes hailing from Sicily and Naples at reasonable prices. Naples is known for its eggplant parmigiana, and at Per Noi, it’s a can’t-miss appetizer that’s seared and stacked between layers of firm mozzarella and bright marinara sauce. The flavorful eggplant also makes an appearance in the rigatoni Siciliano dish alongside fresh tomato sauce. While the lasagne, the spicy penne arrabbiata and housemade spinach ravioli with ricotta are tempting pasta options, the fusilli puttanesca with pungent Kalamata olives and capers in marinara transports diners directly to the seaside in the south of Italy. ❖
carmine’s carbonara topped WITH BACON
skip the boarding pass and let your love of fresh pasta guide you to different regions of Italy.
Per Noi trattoria’s Lasagna Devour Utah • April 2018 21
The Pages of History
The old Western Macaroni warehouse has new life as Macaroni Flats, an Artspace housing and commercial space.
Salt Lake City was once home to a pasta plant that rivaled many in the West BY BRIAN FRYER
I believe in America. America has made my fortune.” ilm fans know those words were spoken by the undertaker, Amerigo Bonasera, during the opening fade-in of The Godfather. But they just as easily could have been spoken by Antonio Ferro, an Italian immigrant in Utah who made his fortune in pasta near the end of the 19th century.
Mining and Dining
Ferro was born in Southern Italy in 1872 and came to the United States in 1894, finding work as a miner in Pennsylvania. Mining led him to the West, first to Colorado and eventually to the mines around Mercur, Utah. In 1896, Ferro left the mines for Salt Lake City where he opened a small grocery store at 562 W. 200 South. The neighborhood was home to a growing community of Italians, Greeks, Mexicans and Japanese immigrants who’d arrived to work in the mines or on several railroad spurs and warehouses under construction in the area. Whether or not he saw an underserved market in the immigrant community or he missed the food of his homeland and felt the time was right for more Americans to enjoy pasta, Ferro decided to get into the pasta-making business. Along with several partners and workers from the small Italian community, he leased space in a warehouse at 244 S. 500 West and—using eggs from local farmers and wheat from Utah, Idaho and Minnesota farms—he launched the Western Macaroni Manufacturing Co. in 1905. 22 Devour Utah • April 2018
The company began making about 22 varieties of pastas including orzo and egg noodles. Originally operating as Tiger Brand sun-dried macaroni, vermicelli, etc., he soon changed the name to Queen’s Taste, and the company began a period of steady growth.
Macaroni for the Masses
Not long after opening, Ferro married his bride from Italy, Giovannina Calfa. He then went on to buy out his partners, and by 1910, the company was producing about 4,000 pounds of pasta and 40 varieties a day. As the operation grew, the building expanded several times, supplying pasta to neighboring states and as far north as British Colombia. Pasta gradually gained a wider market among consumers, and in 1916, the Deseret News reported, “In years past, it was the rare exception rather than the rule to find macaroni and spaghetti served in [sic] the table of the masses. It seemed then to be the exclusive dish of the epicure but today throughout Utah the excellent products which come in almost endless variety manufactured by the Western Macaroni Co. … are almost a matter of daily enjoyment.” A year later, in 1917, the company saw its market shares jump when the United States entered World War I and shipments of pasta from Europe were cut off. Ferro was heralded as the “pasta king of the Mountain West.” Ferro
was also a hero among the Italian immigrant community, employing 25 to 30 people full-time who oversaw the mixing, cutting and drying operations at the pasta plant, thought to be the largest plant of its kind west of Chicago. By 1927, the Western Macaroni Manufacturing Co. was producing five tons of product daily, but competition from other producers was growing along with the pasta appetites of Americans. Ferro’s son, Aristo, helped manage the company with his father, but he also earned a law degree and began practicing law. The factory suffered several fires during its history and in the summer of 1940, a third major fire devastated the operation. The company filed for bankruptcy in 1942, and Ferro died two years later. Today, what remains of the Pasta King’s castle has been reborn as the Artspace Macaroni Flats apartments (244 S. 500 West, SLC, 801-364-1019, ArtspaceUtah.org) that lease work and living space for local artists as well as the aptly named Macaroni Gallery. ❖ Devour Utah • April 2018 23
Seasons Plant Based Bistro
24 Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018
mid the pawn shops and industrial buildings of State Street, Seasons Plant Based Bistro stands out. The rustic wooden sign, with its attractive white lettering, set against the dramatic, dark painted brick exterior is designed to catch your eye and pique your curiosity. Occupying the former Bakery Street space, the vegan restaurant is small but comfortably seats about 20. The décor isn’t fussy or flashy—it’s inviting and pleasing. Deep walnut-colored wood floors and tables are contrasted by black booths and tan painted walls. The eatery has just enough décor to feel cozy. You’ll see daily specials scrawled across a chalkboard, and a single bloom gracing each table. A large frosted-glass window invites natural light in but shields patrons from the outside world. Funky music accentuates the relaxed mood. The table service is affable; I felt like I was chatting with a good friend when I asked questions about the menu and ordered my food. The menu features plantbased French and Italian fare crafted from organic, local, whole foods. The rich and creamy bacon carbonara ($14) was decadent enough to scratch an itch for something naughty, with housemade fettuccine swimming in velvety carbonara sauce, and delectable smoky mushroom bacon. Fresh herbs and tart cherry tomatoes rounded out the flavor. Hand-cut ravioli ($14) are lovingly crafted from housemade pasta and stuffed with butternut squash, drenched in a rich brown butter consommé, and dotted with fennel sausage. These tender dumplings are full of flavor and so satisfying. With a menu that challenges your notions of comfort food, along with a compelling wine and beer list, Seasons makes the ideal spot for an intimate meal. ❖
Seasons’ menu includes a wine and beer list with glutenfree pale ale and cider
Yes, it’s vegan: Hand-cut ravioli stuffed with butternut squash
Seasons Plant Based Bistro 1370 S. State, SLC 385-267-1922 SeasonsSLC.com —By Amanda Rock Photos by Josh Scheuerman
Devour Utah • April 2018 25
Devour This | Recipe
La Nonna’s Noodles
Making mushroom tortellini with Radiana DePoli Angelilli BY DARBY DOYLE PHOTOS BY AMBER BILLINGSLEY
or nearly three years during World War II—from 1943 to 1945—the Nazis occupied Venice, Italy. In that time, they starved the city’s residents through food-shipment blockades, pillaging citizens’ gardens and pantries and by prohibiting fishing. Venetians accustomed to eating regional dishes such as risotto and polenta adapted instead by making meals with rationed or black-market wheat flour. As a resident of Venice during the occupation, Radiana DePoli Angelilli remembers that her family kept a small flock of chickens hidden in their household to provide eggs as a much-needed source of protein, eaten raw or stretched into pasta (they were only allowed gas for cooking one half-hour a day). When the U.S. Army arrived to liberate the city, Radiana DePoli met a dashing American soldier named Arthur Angelilli. She married at age 15 and became 1945’s youngest war bride. With a big laugh, she says, “I broke the record!” She and Arthur lived in Germany for several years before moving to the United States, eventually settling in Utah when Arthur took a job at Hill Air Force Base. The couple has three children and four grandchildren. Radiana, along with her son Robert Angelilli (pastry chef for the Trio Group) and daughter-in-law Amber Billingsley (pastry chef for Current and Stanza), helped steer me through their family’s recipe for tortellini, which they make for special occasions and holidays, assembly-line style. “You don’t have to spend a fortune on fancy flour,” Robert says. “Plain all-purpose flour works just fine.” Radiana cautions that whenever making pasta, measurements should be considered guidelines, rather than prescriptions, as factors such as the size of the eggs and ambient humidity might vary each time. With just a bag of flour and some eggs, learning to make pasta is a “good, cheap thing to practice making,” says Robert. “Spend an afternoon with a bottle of wine, and you’ll perfect it.”
Radiana DePoli Angelilli cuts the pasta
Tortellini Pasta Dough 10 ounces (approximately 2 cups) all-purpose flour 3 whole eggs (or 2 whole eggs plus additional three yolks for a richer dough) 1 teaspoon salt Combine all ingredients into a ball using a food processor, mixer with hook or paddle, or by hand in a bowl or on the countertop. Knead until all flour is incorporated. Add cold water a few drops at a time if the dough is too crumbly to stick together. Continue to knead dough by hand 3 to 5 minutes, or until uniform and smooth in texture and very elastic. Form into a flat disc about 1½ inches thick, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest at room temperature for at least 15 minutes, up to 1 hour, if possible (the longer it rests, the easier the dough is to work with). In the meantime, make the mushroom filling. 26 Devour Utah • April 2018
Radiana suggests using measurements as guidelines since environmental factors are always at play
Mushroom Filling This recipe makes enough filling for approximately 1 pound of finished tortellini. ½ pound cremini mushrooms, finely chopped ¼ medium yellow onion, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt to taste 1 whole egg ¼ cup whole-milk ricotta cheese (fine curd) 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon butter or olive oil
Muir Gourmet presents Executive Chef
Oscar Ortega master chocolatier, gelato tech & pastry chef
In a skillet over medium heat, sauté mushrooms with olive oil until soft and most liquid has evaporated. Add onions and continue to cook until soft; add garlic and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden. Remove from heat, transfer to a mixing bowl. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add egg, ricotta, Parmesan cheese and stir until well combined.
Prepare the Tortellini Radiana Angelilli uses the same hand-cranked pasta roller she’s had for 50 years to transform the dough into the thinnest sheets possible. Since tortellini are folded over in several places, too-thick dough makes for tough pasta that won’t cook through evenly. Radiana describes the finished shape as “little belly buttons.” Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll one piece through a pasta machine on the widest setting and keep on rolling it through smaller settings until the dough is at the thinnest one. Repeat with the other three dough pieces. Cut 2½-inch to 3-inch circles of dough using a cookie cutter or by tracing around the rim of a glass with a very sharp knife. Keep the pasta covered with a kitchen towel to prevent it from drying out. Place one rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each pasta circle, working in batches of no more than 8 to 10 at a time. With a pastry brush or your fingers, brush a very light coating of water around the edge of the dough circle. Pull dough over the filling to create a semi-circle, pushing as much air out of the filled center as possible as you go. Press edges together firmly with fingertips to seal. Pick up the “corners” of the pasta semi-circle and bend them toward each other gently (the Angelillis call this step “breaking the back”) so as not to burst the filling pocket. Bring one end slightly on top of the other to overlap and slightly buckle the pasta edge up on one side. Give the overlapped ends a little squeeze to keep them well adhered. As you go, place formed tortellini on a lightly floured baking sheet or large plate. When ready to cook, drop tortellini into salted boiling water and stir gently so they don’t stick together. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, and strain. Serve as the Angelillis do with either a hearty pork-based tomato sauce, or simply with a drizzle of browned butter, generous sprinkle of Parmesan cheese and sea salt. ❖
Consulting, Workshops & Recipe Development
801-908-6091 firstname.lastname@example.org Devour Utah • April 2018 27
801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South | finecandies.com 28 Devour Utah • April 2018
open for: lunch • Dinner • weekend brunch (801) 885-7558 3 3 3 0 N . U n i v e r s i t y Av e P r o v o, U T 8 4 6 0 4 w w w. b l o c k r e s ta u r a n t g r o u p.c o m
Things We Love
BY JERRE WROBLE
It stands to reason that Salt Lake’s godfather of delis would sell the godfather of pasta flours. Italian flours are classified by how finely they are ground, with the roughest being tipo 1 and the finest tipo 00. Not only is Caputo Chef’s Flour Tipo 00 the most refined, it has less gluten than most flours, creating a silkier dough that maintains a chewiness when the pasta is cooked. Available at Caputo’s Market & Deli (314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-5318669, Caputos.com). $3.99
If ever there were a
2 reason for a cheesy grin,
it’s Polly-O Original New York Ricotta Cheese, sold at Caputo’s Market & Deli (314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-5318669, Caputos.com). Sweet and mild Polly-O ricotta, now a Kraft brand, descended from a line of Italian cheesemakers who use the open-fire method. Made from whole milk, its soft, moist, snowy-white texture makes it perfect for lasagna, cannelloni, gnocchi and stuffed shells as well as for cannolis and cheese blintzes. So good! $5.99
In search of a great
3 finishing oil for pasta or
pesto? Carling at Caputo’s Market & Deli (314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-531-8669, Caputos. com) recommends Bariani cold-extracted extra virgin olive oil. Made from green olives harvested at family orchards near Sacramento, Calif., this oil is high in chlorophyll. Its artichokegrass finish has a bitterness that adds a pleasing complexity to food. Green olives don’t contain much olive oil, so this oil’s more expensive to produce. But your birthday’s coming, right? $19.99
Most foodies fantasize about
4 owning a pasta-machine,
hand-cranking spaghetti for the family Sunday dinner. Well, now, Spoons ‘N Spice (2274 S. 1300 East, No. G9, SLC, 801-2631898, SpoonsNSpice.com) makes it easy for you to get cranking with its Marcato’s Atlas 150 Wellness stainless-steel machine. Made in Italy, it rolls and cuts pasta dough for lasagna, fettuccine and tagliolini at home. Plus, there’s accessories for shapes and ravioli. It’s on sale (while supplies last) at $89. ❖
Devour Utah • April 2018 29
hen he arrived on the scene as Stanza’s executive chef in May 2017, Jonathan LeBlanc might have had something to prove. He’d heard the restaurant’s lobster dish was in need of a reboot and set about creating his own Italian-inspired pasta platter bejeweled with buttery morsels of Maine lobster tail and Gulf Coast shrimp. The linguine is made with just three ingredients: semolina flour, water and extra virgin olive oil. So many of Stanza’s offerings are built around the housemade pasta that LeBlanc says they go through about 50 pounds of semolina weekly. The noodles are dropped into boiling water and cooked al dente. Meanwhile, garlic and shallots are sautéed in a 30 Devour Utah • April 2018
Stanza Linguine all’Aragosta e Gamberetto
(Linguine with Lobster & Shrimp) 454 E. 300 South, SLC 801-746-4441 StanzaSLC.com
heated pan in unsalted butter until translucent, at which point a 5½-ounce lobster tail and a dozen or so shrimp are added and gently cooked until perfectly tender. The pan is deglazed with white wine and heavy cream is added. “At its core,” LeBlanc says, “it’s a butter-cream sauce.” The element that truly makes the taste buds explode is the addition of marinated baby heirloom tomatoes. Biting into one, you’ll notice not only the fresh-herb seasoning but the surprising tang of white balsamic
vinegar. After seasoning with salt, pepper and chili flakes, the mixture is plated with a drizzle of basil-chive herb oil and a fried basil leaf as garnish. At $33, this pasta dish might be more of special-occasion meal, or one to share with someone you love. But what a dish it is—what you might call Chef LeBlanc’s mic drop. ❖
—Jerre Wroble Photos by Niki Chan Devour Utah • April 2018 31
FRANCO MIRENDA’S sicilian pastas may be coming to a neighborhood near you
Family Owned & Operated Since 1978
204 E. 500 S. SLC cannellas.com | 801.355.8518
32 Devour Utah • April 2018
The Sicilians Have Landed
Giuseppe mirenda, SICILIA MIA Co-owner, at the cheese wheel
Salt Lakers can’t resist the Mirenda family’s signature pasta dishes BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
n 2016, before opening his new family-run restaurant, Sicilia Mia, on Highland Drive, Francesco “Chef Franco” Mirenda suffered a sleepless night. The family patriarch was determined to create an original dish to launch their latest venture. In his native Sicily, he says, “We use a lot of cheese. We make homemade cheese all the time. Sicily is really known for ricotta—for any kind of cheese.” It finally came to him: “We are going to make a carbonara,” he told his co-owner and son, Giuseppe, the next morning. He then crafted a showstopper of an entrée, using cooking techniques from Sicily. Today, Sicilia Mia patrons are treated to the tableside presentation of spaghetti alla carbonara prepared inside a flaming 2-foot-wide split-wheel of Grana Padano cheese. Made in northern Italy, Grana Padano is a hard, slow-ripened semi-fat cheese similar to Parmigiano Reggiano that’s aged at least 18 months. As it ages, it develops a fragrant and delicate taste, making it, according to Giuseppe, the best cheese in Italy. Additional Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is added before hot housemade noodles are tossed inside the cheese wheel with eggs and pancetta, an Italian salt-cured bacon spiced with black pepper. As the alcohol flames soften the cheese, the sides of the wheel are scraped and blended into the noodles before twirling the coated pasta onto a plate. Giuseppe says his final touch is “a little singing” and garnishing each diner’s plate with good wishes handwritten in a balsamic reduction. “We make it all homemade to make it the best,” he says.
Devour Utah • April 2018 33
Pasta Issue tdk
CHEF AngELO d’alessandro, BROTHER of Margherita d’alessandro
SICILIA MIA’S spaghetti alla carbonara
The Sicilian Difference While Sicilian cuisine has a lot in common with mainland Italian cuisine, Sicilian food also has Greek, Spanish, French and Arabic influences. Giuseppe explains that Sicilian cooking often incorporates more flavoring and spices than traditional Italian fare. “Because Sicily is on the coast, there is a lot of seafood. Garlic, lemon and oranges are picked from the land and incorporated into the cuisine. Eggplant is also traditional.” In 2012, the Mirendas emigrated from their native Sicily to Utah, choosing the Beehive State because they have
34 Devour Utah • April 2018
relatives here. Prior to their move, they owned five Sicilian restaurants, two in Acquedolci and three in Palermo, and their business was passed down “from chef to chef” through three generations. Francesco and his father owned restaurants together and after his father died, the family kept them. Giuseppe started working in the kitchen when he was 8 years old. The family operated the restaurants in Acquedolci for 25 years. “My dad started working in a restaurant when he was 6 years old. Now, my father and I are restaurant owners together—an amazing partnership that couldn’t be better,” Giuseppe says.
Know the Age of your Cheese Cut to Order! • • • • • •
DUTCH SPICED CUMIN GOUDA (LEIDEN) SWISS RACLETTE GERMAN TILSIT DUTCH FARMERS GOUDA DANISH BLUE CHEESE NORWEGIAN GOAT CHEESE
Dutch, German & Scandinavian Delicatessen
2696 Highland Dr. · 801-467-5052 · olddutchstore.com M-F 10am-6pm · Sat 9am-5pm · Closed Sunday ONLINE ORDERING AVAILABLE...EAT IN OR TAKE OUT
Funerals weddings Birthdays make someone ’ s day
t r A The l a r o Fl 801-363-0565 580 E 300 S SLC theartfloral.com Devour Utah • April 2018 35
Pasta Issue margherita d’alessandro wife of FRANCO MIRENDA
Tagliatelle antica sicilia
A family affair The Mirendas’ Utah restaurant group originated in 2014, when they transformed a former Cottonwood Heights gas station into Amici, a beautiful, relaxing 13-table restaurant that caught the attention of locals for both its authentic cuisine and for creating a jewel out of an abandoned eyesore with no apparent future. “It became a really popular place,” Giuseppe says. “We felt the love from the neighborhood. There was love from everybody.” The partnership behind the restaurant broke apart and Amici closed. The family went on to open several neighborhood bistros and now operates three restaurants— Sicilia Mia, Antica Sicilia and Dolce Sicilia. They anticipate opening of a fourth restaurant, Bella Sicilia, in downtown Salt Lake City later in the spring. 36 Devour Utah • April 2018
Along with Francesco, Giuseppe’s mom (Margherita), grandmother (Fina), and uncle (Marco) are presently among the restaurant staff. Giuseppe’s mom makes the tiramisu and Marco is the current pastry chef for other delicacies, including cannoli, mousse and pastries—made fresh daily. All three restaurants serve lasagna from Giuseppe’s grandmother’s recipe and the tableside carbonara is also on the menu at each place. Offerings vary slightly among the three eateries. Gnocchi di spinaci con ricotta, a dish exclusive to Antica Sicilia, features gnocchi made from spinach gnocchi pasta dough. Its tableside presentation begins with the placement of fresh ricotta cheese in the center of the diner’s plate before prosciutto and gnocchi are added around it. A tomato sauce mixture melts the ricotta, combining the flavors of the fresh, delicate cheese and the zest of the tomato.
801-713-9423 5692 South 900 Eatst Murray, UT 84121
DINNER WHAT’S FOR
Sign up online today and let us take care of dinner.
www.wasatchfresh.com email@example.com 1337 S. Main Street Salt Lake City, UT 84115
Devour Utah • April 2018 37
Pasta Issue Francesco “Chef Franco” Mirenda, family patriarch
dolce sicilia’s gnocchi gorgonzola and speck
To commemorate the opening of Dolce Sicilia, Francesco created the restaurant-exclusive gnocchi gorgonzola and speck, featuring housemade pasta and from-scratch creams. Speck is a pork product similar to prosciutto, except that the meat is smoked as a final step in the curing process. “Speck is delicate and wonderful,” Giuseppe says. A new dish for not-yet-open Bella Sicilia will be cacio pepe, which Giuseppe explains means cheese and pepper. Cacio pepe will be served in a tableside presentation within a cheese wheel and will include creamy pasta and “a little bit of white truffle,” Giuseppe says. Any visit to Sicilia Mia feels like a special occasion, or at least the highlight of a well-spent day. Reservations are
encouraged, but they are a must on weekends, although walk-ins are also allowed to wait in the celebratory atmosphere. If you need to wait, this is an opportunity to observe the Mirenda family greeting people in Italian, or glance at the delicious desserts in the bakery display case. The wait-staff greets diners with a smile and often an enthusiastic, ‘“Bella!” and it is easy to imagine that you have traveled to Sicily for a well-deserved respite. ❖ Sicilia Mia 4536 Highland Dr. SLC 801-274-0223
Antica Sicilia 2020 E. 3300 South, SLC 385-202-7236
Dolce Sicilia 1048 E. 2100 South, SLC 385-528-3275
SiciliaMiaUtah.com 38 Devour Utah • April 2018
NOW OPEN AT FASHION PLACE MALL
FANCY TACOS & FINE TEQUILAS
COMING SOON IN LEHI! 1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE | 385-259-0712 4670 HOLLADAY VILLAGE PLAZA (2300 EAST) | 801-676-9706 149 EAST 200 SOUTH | 385-259-0940
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK I T A Q U E R I A 2 7 . C O M
Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018 39
40 Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018
FUSILLI BUCATI LUNGHI
Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018 41
Devour This | Recipe
Pasta Primavera for Two WORDS & PHOTO BY JERRE WROBLE
don’t use recipes,” says Tuscany’s long-time chef, Adam Vickers. “It’s all in here,” he says, gesturing to his head. For a chef who’s been at Tuscany’s helm since 2009—and working for other restaurants owned by the same company since 1996—he’s got a lot going on in that head. Not only does Vickers know precisely how each item on Tuscany’s menu is prepared, he also shows creative flair for springtime specials, such as the pasta primavera. Many aren’t aware that this classic pasta dish—while not on the menu—can be made to order with your choice of the freshest ingredients in the kitchen. Tuscany serves only housemade pasta, and for this dish, Vickers uses broad, flat pappardelle noodles, made with 100-percent semolina flour. “I like the texture of semolina,” he says. “It has a backbone to it. It will hold up.” The pasta’s fresh, but then, so is nearly every ingredient the chef adds to it. “We butcher our own meat and use herbs from our own garden,” Vickers says. Vickers’ goal as chef is maintaining consistency, he says. He wants the dining experience to be outstanding every time. “The challenge as a chef is getting the staff to match your own drive and passion,” he says. He accomplishes that by working alongside his crew in the kitchen every day. Tuscany 2832 E. 6200 South, SLC 801-277-9919 TuscanySLC.com
42 Devour Utah • April 2018
Tuscany Chef Adam Vickers’ Pasta Primavera (Serves 2) Ingredients 8 ounces freshly made pappardelle pasta 1 cup fresh cherry tomatoes, halved 8 asparagus spears, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces 2 yellow squash, sliced into coins, then half moons ¼ cup fresh garden herbs (chives, baby sorrel) 1 clove sliced garlic Olive oil 1 tablespoon butter Pinch salt Fresh cracked pepper 2 teaspoons umami seasoning
Process Gather ribbons of fresh pappardelle into fist-sized balls and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Drop the “balls” of pasta into boiled salted water and cook al dente (about 8 to 10 minutes). While pasta is cooking, add the olive oil to a large sauté pan and heat over medium-high flame. Add squash, tomatoes and asparagus, stirring until vegetables become tender, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, season to taste with salt and pepper, and add 1 to 2 teaspoons of umami seasoning. Combine with a dab of butter for flavor. Deglaze pan with ½ to 1 cup of white wine. Remove pan from heat. Pull pasta balls out of water and drop into sauté pan with vegetables. Add a quarter cup of starchy pasta water to help create a sauce that binds ingredients. Toss noodles with vegetables. Add additional butter if desired and most of the garden herbs, holding back some for the garnish. Toss again. Serve on plates, top with shaved Parmesan and remaining herbs. ❖
GRAB A BITE
DINNER AND A SHOW. ONLY AT GRACIE’S! EVERY TUESDAY
BLUEGRASS JAM WITH HOSTS PIXIE AND THE PARTYGRASS BOYS 7PM-10PM
“HENNY (YOUNGMAN) WAS A GOOD MAN, BUT A LOUSY TIPPER. ONE TIME HE ASKED ME, ‘JACK, AM I A GOOD TIPPER?’ AND I TOLD HIM, ‘YEAH IF IT WAS 1935!’ “, JACK SIROTA, WAITER, CARNEGIE DELI
365 DAYS A YEAR
326 S. West Temple • Open 11-2am, M-F 10-2am Sat & Sun • graciesslc.com • 801-819-7565
2005 E. 2700 SOUTH, SLC FELDMANSDELI.COM @ FELDMANSDELI OPEN TUES - SAT TO GO ORDERS: (801) 906-0369
20 1 7
Devour Utah • April 2018 43
Green Spirit Guide
s Amy Stewart writes in The Drunken Botanist, “Every great drink starts with a plant.” Bourbon is made mostly from corn, tequila from agave, gin from grain and vodka from, well, just about anything. Similarly, calling on inspiration from early season garden bounty makes for great cocktail mixers. In the case of these drinks, the base vegetable shrubs, syrups and juices are equally terrific served sans booze. They’re just another delicious way to get in more veggie servings per day!
The Drink: Sunday Bloody Mary Bar The Maker: Chef Matt Harris Tupelo 508 Main, Park City 435-615-7700 TupeloParkCity.com No list of veg-forward beverages would be complete without a stellar bloody mary, and the Beehive State has no shortage of delicious examples. When I’m in the mood to go all out on pickled and preserved “choose your own adventure” garnishing, Tupelo in Park City has all options gloriously covered with a pretty spectacular serve-yourself mix-in bar, including dozens of hot sauce options, fresh-grated horseradish and more pickled veggie options than you can shake a skewer at. From the simple to the sublime, all of it tops their sassy and savory housemade tomato juice base from a recipe developed by chef Matt Harris.
Raid the produce aisle for a seriously healthy cocktail
Tupelo Bloody Mary Mix
32 ounces homemade tomato juice 3 ounces habanero pickle juice 1 ounce lemon juice 2 tablespoons fresh ground black pepper 2 ounces smoked sea salt 2 ounces fresh grated horseradish root 1 ounce Sriracha hot sauce Cholula hot sauce to taste
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY DARBY DOYLE
44 Devour Utah • April 2018
Blend all ingredients together and refrigerate until ready for use. Makes about 5 cups mix. To assemble a bloody mary, to a pint glass with ice add 1½ ounces of vodka and fill to the rim with bloody mary mix. Stir well to combine and garnish extravagantly.
1/2 Price Tacos 11am - 4pm Monday - Friday Brunch Saturday + Sunday 11:00 - 4:00 155 w. 200 S. 801.532.2068 lakeeffectslc.com Open Daily 11:00am - 1:00am
serving locally produced beers & spirits
75+ BEERS AVAILABLE
CRAFT COCKTAILS - WINE - BEER 80’S NEW WAVE NIGHT EVERY THURSDAY 7PM-11PM W/ DJ BIRDMAN (RAFFLE PRIZES & GIVEAWAYS) JOIN US FOR APRÉS SKI LOCATED AT THE BASE OF THE CANYONS
FRIDAY & SATURDAY LIVE MUSIC 6PM - 9PM DJ’S 9PM - CLOSE
FULL DINING MENU FROM CAFE TRIO
BOOK YOUR NEXT PARTY OR EVENT AT ELIXIR!
6405 s. 3000 e. Holladay | 801.943.1696 | elixirloungeslc.com Devour Utah • April 2018 45
Green Spirit Guide
The Drink: Drink Your Greens The Maker: Tracy Gomez Finca 327 W. 200 South, SLC 801-487-0699 FincaSLC.com When I told bartender extraordinaire Tracy Gomez that I was contemplating a feature on veggie-based cocktails, she immediately said, “I’m in!” and rose to the challenge with the delicious panache and glam style I’ve come to expect from the Finca bar program. Gomez even made this original frothy sipper completely vegan by using aquafaba. “Use this magical ingredient in place of egg white in sour-style cocktails,” Gomez says. “It is simply the liquid from can of sodium-free organic garbanzo beans.” She prefers using aquafaba over egg whites, both to reduce the risk of salmonella and for better consistency, since it has an almost entirely neutral flavor. Gomez’s garden shrub also makes for a delicious alcohol-free beverage when stirred up over ice with an equal part club soda and squeeze of fresh lemon.
46 Devour Utah • April 2018
drink your greens Finca
Drink Your Greens 1½ ounces gin (aquavit is also amazing here) 1 ounce garden shrub* ½ ounce sauvignon blanc ½ ounce aquafaba ¼ ounce lemon juice 1 drop Bittermens’ Orchard Street celery bitters Shake all ingredients vigorously with ice. Fine strain into a stemmed cocktail glass. Let stand momentarily for the foam to set. Garnish with a small fennel frond, pinch of black pepper and fennel pollen (if available). *Garden shrub: Rough chop about one mounded cup total of green fruits, herbs and vegetables (Gomez uses apple, cucumber, mint, fennel and green bell pepper). Add the chopped garden mixture to a blender with one cup each granulated sugar and apple cider vinegar. Blend until completely smooth, then strain out the solids. Keep refrigerated in a non-reactive sealed container (will keep for several months). Makes about 2 cups shrub.
SERVING BRUNCH ON SAT & SUN SALT LAKE CITY
680 South 900 East Salt Lake City, UT 84102 Tel: 801 533. 8746
6405 South 3000 East Salt Lake City, UT 84121 Tel: 801 944. 8746
6585 North Landmark Dr. Park City, UT 84098 Tel: 435 649. 9654
www.triodining.com Come enjoy our award winning patio.
Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018 47
The Drink: Beet Margarita The Maker: Joslyn Pust Zest Kitchen & Bar 275 S. 200 West, SLC 801-433-0589 ZestSLC.com
“It is my view that the vegetarian manner of living, by its purely physical effect on the human temperament, would most beneficially influence the lot of mankind.” —ALBERT EINSTEIN
Full disclosure: It’s hard to pick just one drink off of the ever-changing Zest bar menu as the epitome of a veggie-forward beverage. They have a slew of them. Think carrot juice mimosas, spicy jalapeño margaritas and kombucha-based cocktails, all refreshing and concocted with coldpressed juices made fresh in the Zest kitchen daily. For this gorgeously hued margarita, fresh beet juice provides an earthy balance to the tequila and citrus notes without the added processed sugar found in most margarita mixes. Win-win! Beet Margarita 1½ ounces blanco tequila ¾ ounce Patron citronge or Cointreau ¾ ounce fresh pressed beet juice 1 dash Peychaud’s bitters lime wedge
Rub the rim of a rocks glass with the cut side of a lime. Dip the rim in sea salt, and fill glass with fresh ice. To a shaker with ice, add all ingredients and shake until well chilled. Strain into serving glass; squeeze in lime juice and garnish with lime.
48 Devour Utah • April 2018
Open 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Daily Closed Tuesdays 801.359.6035 2305 S Highland Dr SLC, UT 84106
353 West 200 South,
161 West 900 South,
7am-midnight Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sunday
Great American Cuisine Hardwood Smoked Meats • Full Bar • Enjoyable Atmosphere
MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH
May 13, 10am - 3pm Reservations Only
Quick Lunch? Savor our healthy Soup and Salad Bar
Live Music and Fresh Oysters on Weekends
2432 Washington • 801-745-2060 • harleyandbucks.com Devour Utah • April 2018 49
Green Spirit Guide
BONUS: Celery Cooler Celery is so much more than a bloody mary garnish! This easy celery syrup base replicates the flavors of bottled celery sodas made popular at the beginning of the 20th century. In this case, I substituted agave nectar for the sugar or corn syrup found in most commercial sodas. Mix a couple of tablespoons of celery syrup with 3 to 4 ounces club soda over ice for a refreshing no-alcohol spritzer.
50 Devour Utah â€˘ April 2018
Method: Add 2/3 cup agave nectar to one cup boiling water. Stir until completely dissolved. Add one heaping tablespoon of ground celery seeds and let steep for 3 to 4 hours at room temperature. Strain through several layers of cheesecloth. Store in a lidded jar in the refrigerator for up to one month. Makes about 1Â˝ cups syrup.
authentic Mexican Food
celebrating 20 years
Purc es W i t h2 E n t r e any of w it h
Sushi Rolls Always
BUY 1 GET 1 FREE 2843 S 5600 W Ste#140-150 801.935.5268
d v a li o f f e r r othe /30/18 .4 Exp
20 1 7
165 S. West Temple • SLC
Below Benihana and across from the Salt Palace
255 Main St • Park City
Treasure Mountain Inn (Top of Main)
Devour Utah • April 2018 51
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
s s e c c u s r o f e recip
ew dishes are as uncomplicated to make than pasta and yet there aren’t many that are more timeless or satisfying to eat. The traditional recipe for making pasta is typically comprised of two simple ingredients: flour and water. The adherence to quality sourcing of flour and a dedication to the process are not only essential to an exceptional elbow macaroni or tagliatelle noodle but also as it pertains to every aspect of the restaurant industry. Over the last 75 years, the Utah Restaurant Association has understood
52 Devour Utah • April 2018
the commitment to quality ingredients for our success. The people and our community make the Utah Restaurant Industry one of the top performing and most successful industries in the country. Behind every good food story, is a great people story. Taste Utah is committed to taking you behind the scenes to meet the individuals who contribute to your favorite food experiences. This month, we encourage you to embrace the carbs by getting a healthy serving of “craft” mac’n cheese or ordering a beautiful handmade pasta. We honor Utah ProStart students, who are a key ingredient to the successful Utah Restaurant Industry recipe. They are
the future of our industry and the next generation of restaurant professionals. In March Utah ProStart Regional and State Championship competitions offered high school students who are passionate about the restaurant industry the unique opportunity to create and innovate. Teams of four teens each presented either a three course menu or a full blown restaurant concept to top restaurant industry professionals and chefs. These talented and driven ProStart students and teachers will be honored alongside many members of our Taste Utah community during our annual awards gala in May.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Tickets are available now online at www.UtahRestaurantAssociation.org
he 2018 Restaurant Industry Awards Gala celebrates our 75th Anniversary on Monday, May 7 at the Grand America Hotel. We look forward to honoring all those that have contributed to the longevity and success of the URA including past and present Chairmans of the Board, board members, associate members, restaurant members and restaurant patrons throughout the years. This event promises to be an amazing opportunity to celebrate all those who have, are and will be contributing to our food service community and restaurant industry throughout Utah. Awards will include New Concept Winners for Quick Service, Fast Casual, Casual and Fine Dine restaurants, along with our URA Heart of the Industry awards honoring the passionate professional working in the industry. We also anticipate recognizing special industry allies and contributors with the Legacy Awards. This promises to be an unforgettable evening celebrating Utah food. Everyone working in the industry as well as patrons and loyal customers are invited and encouraged to attend. Devour Utah â€˘ April 2018 53
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
In-Pasta-Bowl to Refuse
very Saturday morning at 11:00 AM on the CW 30, Taste Utah travels the state in search of unexpected food stories and the folks behind Utah’s Dining Destinations. In light of this months ode to pasta edition, we thought we’d offer a few picture perfect pasta stops and an unexpected look into Utah’s oldest consecutively run business - believe it or not… it’s a flour company.
Stoneground Kitchen | Salt Lake City 249 E 400 S, Salt Lake City, UT 84111 801.364.1368 Chef Justin Shifflett is a pasta making maestro. True to a traditional Italian restaurant, handmade pasta is at the heart of Stoneground Kitchen. Chef Shifflett is making pasta in house every other day and has refined his skills down to the finest touch. Aside from plenty of practice in refining his craft, he touts another Utah company for his superior pasta making powers; Central Milling in Logan Utah. Chef Shifflett uses the double “0” pasta flour in all seven of the menus impeccable pasta entrees on the diner menu. For him local, simple and intentionally sourced ingredients make all the difference. Look for Chef Shifflett’s irresistible pasta offerings under the Flour & Water section of the menu. 54 Devour Utah • April 2018
Vessel Kitchen | Park City 1784 Uinta Way Suite 1E, Park City, UT 84098 435.200.8864 Vessel Kitchen is an upscale cafeteria style eatery where organic and craft come together impeccably. The mission of Vessel Kitchen is all about good food choices, organic quality ingredients that actually make you feel great. From our perspective this is the ultimate “comfort food”, which brings us into food focus with Vessel’s Mac & Cheese. Offered on the menu as a side - almost understated, this pasta dish is feel good friendly on your wallet, your pallet and most importantly your body. It features classic elbow macaroni pasta, Gold Greek Farms aged cheddar, Redmond Real Salt and topped with fresh rosemary and Gold Greek Farms parmesan.
Central Milling | Logan 122 E Center St, Logan, UT 84321 435.752.6625
A company built on generations of knowledge – dating back over 150 years to the pioneer days when flour was an essential staple of daily life, Central Milling is an extraordinary family owned and operated Utah company. With family roots in farming, planting, harvesting and fourth generation bakers, this rich heritage has cultivated a company that values quality over quantity. Not only do some of Utah’s finest chefs rave about the pasta making perfection of the infamous double “0”flour, Central Milling is producing internationally award winning flour as well. If that isn’t enough to peak your interests, visit www.TasteUtah.com for an insider access into the oldest flour mill in Utah. You will be amazed at the integration of this historic mill and the innovation that continues to inspire local and internationally acclaimed products.
aste Utah Foodies we want to see your Im-Pasta-Bowl-To-Refuse Utah restaurant food photos! Hashtag TasteUtah on your favorite pasta dishes for a chance to win a $25 gift certificate to dine at a restaurant featured on Taste Utah. Season 3 of Taste Utah is of Utah gems, unexpected finds, and dining destinations all over the state. Remember you have full access to these and other great food videos through www.TasteUT.com, Taste Utah’s one-of-a-kind interactive dining guide. Taste with us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook by hashtagging #TasteUtah on all your restaurant food photos. Keep watching Utah’s CW30 on Saturdays at 11:00AM. We are crafting a very special season 4 of Taste Utah for all you Taste Utah Foodies, and it premieres on April 28, 2018. Let’s Taste Utah! Devour Utah • April 2018 55
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
he Utah Restaurant Association (URA) held the Utah ProStart State Championship Culinary and Management competitions with Sysco Intermountain as a presenting sponsor on March 6, 2018 at the Mountain America Exposition Center (formerly South Towne Expo). ProStart is the URA’s school-to-career program which prepares juniors and seniors in high school to enter careers in culinary management or hospitality management within the restaurant industry. “ProStart is more than just a food course. It helps inspire and educate our future generation of restaurateurs, chefs, managers, and culinary professionals. This provides a perfect forum to introduce the students to the industry and the industry to the students. These are really incredible teens who have very passionate and dedicated teachers.” acknowledges Sine. The culinary competition included 14 teams of four teen chefs (and one alternate) from around the state. The rules stipulate each team may only use two burners and no electricity to prepare a threecourse meal consisting of a first course, entree and dessert. These teams spend all year perfecting their recipes and skills, and practicing after school and on the weekends when necessary. The teen chefs were scored by floor judges on techniques such as knife skills, mis-en-place, menu execution, intelligent plating, sanitation, uniforms, teamwork and food safety among other things. The tasting judges are comprised of Utah chefs, restaurateurs and industry professionals who taste anonymously and score innovative flavor profiles and recipes according to very strict guidelines. 56 Devour Utah • April 2018
Thirty-two high schools competed at regional competitions around the state and the teams with the highest scored from each region will compete. Representing in the culinary competition were Canyon View, Cedar City, Desert Hills, Pine View, Brighton, Tooele, Provo, Salem Hills, Westlake, Mountain View, Roy, Bonneville, Clearfield, and Granite Technical Institute. These teens are competing for bragging rights as state champions and their chance to represent as Team Utah at the National ProStart Invitational. The management competition represents “front-of-the house” skills which must include a business plan, branding, menu design, marketing and critical thinking as teams of four present their unique restaurant concepts to restaurateurs and restaurant professionals from around the state. Management presentations on a national stage have actually been developed into full-blown restaurant concepts. Schools competing in management from across the state included Provo, Desert Hills, Bonneville, Cedar, Roy, Copper Hills, Salem Hills, Westlake, Timpview, Riverton, Pineview and West. Though many innovative menus and dynamic restaurant concepts were presented, it was Westlake High School in the Culinary Competition and Provo High School in the Management competition who each took first place respectively. Both schools will spend the next month perfecting their menu’s and presentations to represent as Team Utah at the ProStart National Invitational April 27th — 29th, 2018 in Providence, Rhode Island. Team Utah will compete against all 50 states, other US territories and culinary teams traveling from international destinations like Japan.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Your Place Is With Us. Become A Member Today.
Safely Served ServSafe® Manager Certification
Utah Food Handler Permit Made Easy
The Utah Restaurant Association offers unparalleled training in ServSafe® Manager Certification. ServSafe® is internationally recognized as the gold standard within the restaurant industry. Class and test are offered every Wednesday at the Utah Restaurant Association. Please call to reserve your spot today.
ServSafe® Food Handler is the nation’s premier provider of food safety training. Now available in Utah with 24/7 access online. Visit www.ServSafe.com. Create an account, select Utah and purchase your class and test… It’s that easy! Once completed your permit will be mailed to you.
The Utah Restaurant will travel to your location for classes of 10 students or more. Call our office to schedule a ServSafe® Manager Certification group class and test.
Looking for Food Handler training for your staff? The Utah Restaurant Association will travel for classes of 10 students or more. With affordable pricing and exceptional teachers, call the URA to schedule a group class for your employees today.
g n i t a r b e l e C
5 7 s r a e Y
The success of Utah’s food industry is our business. Your membership with URA offers your business valuable costsavings on everyday expenses, networking and business building opportunities, vital industry representation and advocacy. It means being part of the only organization in the state devoted to protecting and promoting the interests of the food service industry in Utah.
Join the Utah Restaurant Association today. 801.274.7309
UtahRestaurantAssociation.org Devour Utah • April 2018 57
Four Course Interview
Dillion Chase, server BY SARAH ARNOFF
hen Dillion Chase moved back to Utah after studying in Massachusetts toward a degree in architecture, he began serving at various hotel restaurants and bars. Three years ago, he landed a position at Stoneground (249 E. 400 South, 801-364-1368, StonegroundSLC.com). He now writes the food blog Dillicious.xyz and hopes to one day open his own waste-free restaurant.
You took a big leap from architecture to food serving. How did that happen? When I moved back to Utah, it just made sense to get a waiter job—it was fun. I’m not your typical waiter. I got into it because I just like to talk to people. I like food, I like talking about food and I like talking about it to people and I love sharing new things with people. I came back to Utah, and I started learning Italian. I fell into the food industry because it was my Plan B. Because my Plan A wasn’t enjoyable like I wanted it to be. … Being an architect would have been really cool, but I definitely prefer to eat good food and write about it and share it with people. And drink amazing things and enjoy how that feels and then share that with people. What do you like about working at Stoneground in particular? I go to Italy every year. This year, I was there for 65 days. ... It’s so cool to come back to Salt Lake to work in a restaurant on the second floor of what used to be a tattoo parlor across the street from the downtown library in Salt Lake City, and I can have the best pasta I’ve ever had. Ever. I’m not just blowing smoke, it’s that good. To work in a place like this where it’s a passion project every day is really neat … 58 Devour Utah • April 2018
Do you have any customer fans? I mean, I’ll have a table of four conservative white gentleman and—I don’t know if you can tell, but I’m not a very conservative white man—and my standard intro is ‘Hi, welcome to Stoneground, it’s a pleasure to have you all. My name is Dillion, and you can call me Dillicious.’ Nine times out of 10, the conservative white guy goes, ‘I don’t think I will,’ and nine times out of 10, that [same] guy is calling me Dillicious by the end of the meal because they realize it’s not something I call myself to be cute or flouncy. It’s like a part of the brand that I’m creating ... This is a Dillicious experience. Would you feel the same if you worked at a chain restaurant? … I couldn’t do my job at, like, Sizzler, because at Sizzler, they try to take the “me” out of it and that’s what makes me a special server. ... I expect things from my employer just as they would from me. They expect me to come do my job the right way; I expect them to let me because they see what I can do. And we’re all going to have more fun. … Every day I am here, I am so excited to come here. ❖
FOR THE FIRST EVER
sunday, april 29th 1pm-5pm MINGLE WITH FELLOW FOODIES AS WE DRIVE YOU AROUND TO THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN TOWN. YOU’LL SAMPLE SIGNATURE DISHES FROM THE BEST LOCAL RESTAURANTS. RESERVE YOUR SEAT NOW!
T I C K E T S AT D E V O U R U TA H . C O M L I M I T E D T I C K E T S AVA I L A B L E T O S E C U R E S P O T S O N T H E B U S Devour Utah • April 2018 59
60 Devour Utah â€¢ April 2018
The Pasta Issue