Devour Utah January 2018

Page 1

vol. 4 no. 1 • January 2018 • reboot

It’s time to

Rye whiskey makes a comeback p. 34

High-frequency foods to boost your mood p. 14

Fabulous pho p. 56

Slope Snacks p. 10

Utah Restaurant Association p. 50

Devour Utah • January 2018 1

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10 14 22 26

Lunch Elevated Ski-day meals that reach new heights BY HEATHER L. KING

Lose the Blues

Eating well to reboot mind, body and soul BY JEN HILL

The Spread

Rawtopia’s new menu is full of surprises BY AMANDA ROCK

Plate It

The Copper Onion burger BY BRYAN MANNOS

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28 32 34 42

A Fisherman Out of Water

An Alaskan fisherman recharges in Moab BY AIMEE L. COOK


Chef’s Table

Pan-roasted salmon with cauliflower purée BY SHANE BAIRD

Resurgence in Rye Rebooting a classic American whiskey in Utah BY DARBY DOYLE

Spirit Guide

Here’s rye in your eye BY DARBY DOYLE

Last Bite

Instant Pot pho success BY ARI LEVAUX

Devour Utah • January 2018 5

DEVOUR Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Co-editors Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors



An urban-farm, slow-food enthusiast, and mother of five, Jen Hill is an SLC transplant from Bloomington, Ind. She is excited about creating a new South Salt Lake community garden and farmers’ market, the SLC Veggie Swap. When she’s not teaching Pilates or at Highland High, you’ll most likely find Jen in the garden without shoes—her hands in the dirt!

Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists


Business/Office Accounting Manager Office Administrator Technical Director


Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at

Marketing Marketing Manager


Circulation Circulation Manager


Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives


Ari LeVaux writes Flash in the Pan, a syndicated weekly food column that’s appeared in more than 50 newspapers in 25 states. His column regularly appears online at, Alternet, Slate and other sites. Ari lives in Missoula, Mont.

Cover Photo: Berry cheesecake at Rawtopia by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • Email Advertising contact:

Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2018. All rights reserved


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Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.

A family of restaurants with


Chabaar Beyond Thai

Tea Rose Diner

87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100

65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111

Siam Noodle Bar

Fav Bistro

5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT

1984 E. Murray Holladay Rd, UT 801-676-9300

Bottom floor in bldg. 1 in IMC Hospital


Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM Devour Utah • January 2018 7



othing says “reboot” like returning to a new/old job, which in my case, happens to be at Copperfield Media, where I’ve worked (with a few breaks) since 2003. Previously, I was editor for City Weekly, Salt Lake’s long-lived altweekly newspaper. Then, on a freelance basis, I edited Vamoose Utah, the company’s outdoor-adventure magazine. As the company recently announced its big plans for 2018—Vamoose Utah will become a bimonthly, along with Copperfield’s new local sports magazine, Winners Utah—it made sense to bring the magazines together with Devour, all under one editor. And for now, that one person is yours truly, the poster child for “reboot.” But I wouldn’t be here, immersing myself in Devour’s sumptuous pages, were it not for the labors of those who’ve gone before me. Devour first appeared in the fall of 2014, with Heather May as its managing editor. Longtime food critic Ted Scheffler took over in September 2015, shepherding the publication to its current monthly schedule. We owe much to Heather and Ted’s editorial direction that enabled this magazine to capture and celebrate Utah’s epicurean spirit for the past three years. We also are in debt to Susan Kruithof, who designed the magazine, and Derek Carlisle, our current art director, who has taken the layout and photography to new heights. Copy editor Sarah Arnoff and proofreader Lance Gudmundsen keep a tenacious watch over these pages for errors, Eric Granato breaks a sweat each month getting the magazine out to the newsracks around town and Jennifer Van Grevenhof leads an ace sales team to round up the advertising support that’s the lifeblood of the magazine. It’s an honor to be in league with such pros. Above all, it’s our food-loving writers who make this a most-enviable job. In this issue, Heather King writes about upscaled lunch offerings at local ski resorts, Jen Hill describes the benefits of a nutrition reboot and Amanda Rock reports on Rawtopia’s relocation and new menu. In addition, Aimee Cook profiles an Alaskan salmon fisherman who recharges each winter in Moab while chef Shane Baird provides a recipe maximizing the health benefits of that salmon. Darby Doyle chronicles the re-emergence of rye whiskey as a cocktail staple. Bryan Mannos delves into the complex alchemy of The Copper Onion’s burger and Ari LeVaux masters the art of pho-making in his Instant Pot. A new year gives us the impetus to begin again—to remodel, reinvent, reimagine, redo and remind ourselves why we do what we do. We hope that this (and every) issue of Devour gives you new ways to engage with the local food and dining scene. We want you be a part of this communal and celebratory experience. Please feel free to reach out to us with suggestions, tips, questions, concerns—even your story ideas should you want to write or intern for us. Happy rebooting! ❖ —Jerre Wroble

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Elevated Warm your gullet with these satisfying ski-day dishes. BY HEATHER L. KING


Cider-braised Beef Short Rib



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Thai Chicken Salad




tah’s ski resorts have long been known for impressive evening gustatory offerings. More recently, many properties have endeavored to up their lunchtime gastronomic game. Here’s our take on worthy powday chow at Solitude, Alta, Deer Valley and Park City Mountain resorts—where skiers and boarders can satiate their culinary cravings without having to leave the slopes.

Cider-braised Beef Short Rib

Building on several years of effort elevating the dining experience at all 13 Park City Mountain Resort restaurants, executive chef of mountain dining Alex Malmborg and his team have added nearly 40 dishes to their on-mountain menus for the 2017-18 season. Offering fine-dining cuisine at 8,300-feet in elevation with spectacular views of the Wasatch Range, Lookout Cabin’s ciderbraised beef short rib is stunning in its own right. Featuring grass-fed beef from Pleasant Creek Ranch in Mount Pleasant, Utah, the fork-tender short rib is accented with truffled sunchokes, earthy maitake mushrooms and a shishito gremolata for added flavor and kick. Lookout Cabin Park City Mountain Resort 4000 Canyons Resort Drive, Park City 435-615-2892

Thai Chicken Salad

Chef Ed McCall has been dishing up skier favorites at Rustler Lodge since 1989, offering fine-dining flair with an unbeatable view as a backdrop. Piled high and healthy, the Thai chicken salad served during lunch comes with all the elements of a perfect plate—crunch from fresh peppers and toasted almonds, citrus from mandarin oranges, and sweet heat delivered by the Thai peanut dressing. The salad is packed with plenty of juicy marinated chicken and Thai noodles to sustain skiers for at least another half day of powder shots. Rustler Lodge Alta Ski Area 10380 E. Highway 210, Alta 801-742-4200 Devour Utah • January 2018 11

Après Elevated

Himalayan Meat Entrée

Solitude’s Roundhouse, the newly rebuilt hut located on-mountain between the Moonbeam and Eagle Express chairlifts, offers up a lunchtime menu of Himalayan and Wasatch Mountain-inspired cuisine perfect for budget-minded hungry patrons. The Himalayan meat entrée combo delivers the best value with a generous taste of tangy butter chicken simmered in yogurt and spices, spicy braised lamb curry and a choice of a flavorful saag paneer (sautéed spinach and paneer cheese) or a hearty dal bhat (lentil and vegetable stew) along with jasmine rice and naan. Pair your meal with Solitude’s new BrewSki beer from Bohemian Brewery while soaking up some of Utah’s gorgeous sunshine on the patio.

Himalayan Meat Entrée $


Roundhouse Solitude Mountain Resort 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon, Solitude 801-534-1400

Salmon Rillettes

Salmon Rillettes



One of the hidden gems at Deer Valley mid-mountain, Goldener Hirsch restaurant is nestled inside the charming Austrian-styled Goldener Hirsch Inn—known for exceptional service and attention to detail. At the restaurant, executive chef Ryan Burnham creates a rich and creamy salmon rillettes starter to share around the table. Indulge in the delicate jar of flaky poached salmon folded into a fines herbes mousse and topped with bright citrus-cured salmon roe. Served with marbled slices of grilled rye bread, you’ll find this delicious pot of goodness on both the lunch and dinner menus. ❖ Goldener Hirsch Inn 7570 Royal St. East, Deer Valley 435-649-7770

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$3 Mimosas $3 Bloody Maria’s & featured brunch specials Saturday& Sunday until 3pm 270 South Rio Grande St.

Cottonwood: 3698 East Ft. Union Blvd.

University: 258 South 1300 East Devour Utah • January 2018 13

e s o L s e u l B e th

If your mind, body and soul feel stuck, consider a nutrition reboot. By Jen Hill

hen rebooting a frozen computer, sometimes the only option is to pull the plug and pray it resets the circuitry. The same can be said of a frozen state of mind. In the dead of winter, our sunny, feel-good Vitamin D stores might run low, leaving us feeling “meh.” Those suffering from Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), in particular, know that the winter blues are no myth. Shaking free of the doldrums often requires a reboot of mind, body and soul. Get quiet, get honest and ask the tough question: “What’s holding you back?” This assessment provides a vantage point to review day-to-day habits that support you, and those that don’t. It becomes readily apparent how food choices lead you closer to or further away from optimal efficiency. To guide you in your own personal reboot, we seek the wisdom of two locals who take this subject seriously enough to create careers around it. Imagine a one-step-cooler Martha Stewart and you have Salt Lake City’s Anne Dorsey, founder of Milk and Honey Wellness. Meal planner and lifestyle coach Jesse Rich is a super-athlete and trail runner who is a certified nutritionist at Forward Progressions. Both share insights and suggestions on how to reach your personal best in 2018.

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“Food can be our best friend or our worst enemy.” — Jesse Rich

Food & the Mind

Hunger isn’t the only reason we forage in the fridge. What we eat influences our emotions and motivations—whether we feel happy, invincible or just ready to hit the couch in a food-induced coma. “The connection we humans have with food is remarkable,” Jesse Rich says. “Food can be our best friend or our worst enemy.” Rich notes that with many of his clients, it isn’t so much what they eat but how they eat. Do they eat alone or with others? Humans are social beings who take time to prepare and enjoy food. “When surrounded by the people we love, and nourishing our bodies with healthy food, all other states of happiness come into alignment,” Rich says. “Dedicate some time every week to prepare food with friends and family and see how your emotional and physical state changes.” Anne Dorsey concurs. She’s dismayed that in just a few generations, humans have completely transformed what, when and how they eat. “Supermarket food contains chemicals, additives and sweeteners wrapped in pretty boxes with catchy packaging,” she says. “We eat this stuff, along with fried fast foods, in our cars, in front of our TVs or at our desks, giving little thought to where our food comes from and how our food choices impact our brains, our emotions and the world around us.”

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Lose the Blues

Food & the Body

In providing your body the fuel it needs to perform, it’s easy to overdo it. Reflect on how your body responds after eating certain foods. Do you feel stronger? Is your energy sustained or do you quickly crash and burn? “We eat with all of our senses,” Dorsey says, “but many of us never stop to really enjoy the look, smell, sound, texture or even taste of our food.” In fact, she says, few people really chew their food. Instead, they’ll spend time at the doctor’s office complaining of upset stomachs, constipation and a range of other digestive disorders. The Milk and Honey Wellness approach to this problem is simple: Eat + high-quality food = a feeling of well-being. Dorsey stresses the importance of getting to know your body. Not only is it important to take a closer look at what you are eating, she says, but also why and how you are eating it. Rich agrees. “We all want to feel good,” he says. “We want to be fully present for our friends and family. Many distractions can take us away from being our healthiest self, but feeling good in your body can be quite simple: Start with love. “Remember all the remarkable things your body does for you every second of every day,” he says. “Think of your body as a machine that needs to be maintained and taken care of. Try listening to your body just a little bit more. Notice how you feel after eating certain foods. Your body will indicate to you what is good and what is bad by varying sensations.” Be mindful of the cues of hunger and satiation, Rich says. Forgetting to listen to your body makes it easier to lose touch with what your body wants and needs. Continued on p. 18

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“We eat with all of our senses.” —Anne Dorsey


Saturday & Sunday Brunch • Full Bar! (801) 885-7558 3 3 3 0 N . U n i v e r s i t y Av e P r o v o, U T 8 4 6 0 4 w w w. b l o c k r e s ta u r a n t g r o u p.c o m

Devour Utah • January 2018 17

Lose the Blues Continued from p. 16

Food & the Soul

If the idea of “soul” throws you, switch it out with the concept of one’s ability to radiate energy or frequency. Consider the difference between crunching on an organically grown apple versus a package of “taste the rainbow” Skittles. Both simulate our taste buds with something sweet and fruity. Both foods operate at a “frequency,” with the organic apple’s being higher than the candy’s. Vibe high, and the magic around you will unfold. — Akilnathan Logeswaran

To boost your frequency, Dorsey stresses the importance of getting outside, even when daylight is limited and outdoor temps are frosty. “Getting outside isn’t just about breathing some fresh air—which in and of itself is a good thing. It’s about exposing yourself to some good old-fashioned sunshine,” she says. The sun strengthens the immune system and helps build strong bones, Dorsey says. Sunlight also improves emotional well-being and helps overcome the winter blues. In fact, she says, one of the standard treatments for Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is to sit in front of a light box, which emits the same wavelengths of radiation as the sun. “Do yourself a favor and give yourself a dose of the real thing,” Dorsey says. For those who really want to feel better this winter, Rich asks this question: “Have you ever considered cooking an art?” If you are looking to improve your health, Rich says, “try cooking. Be spontaneous and don’t follow a recipe. Find foods in the market that you have never tried before. You will find a renewed creativity and discover more variety on your plate. Practice and invite some friends over for dinner. Receive their compliments with grace, and enjoy your new-found talent.” ❖

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To boost your frequency, Dorsey stresses the importance of getting outside.





Give me 30 days, I’ll change your body. Give me 60 days, I’ll change your life! -Bikram Choudhury

Come Turn Up The Heat 1924 S 1100 E | 801-488-4681

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d a e r Sp the

Asian Salad 22 Devour Utah • January 2018


Seaweed roll


awtopia introduced Salt Lake City to raw vegan food back in 2005. The elaborate menu boasted a variety of fresh, organic and sustainable dishes and beverages. Everything from smoothies to savory entrées to decadent desserts were created using raw, plant-based and gluten-free ingredients. Since there’s a lot of dehydrating and sprouting in raw vegan fare, many dishes required two days to prepare. To preserve nutrients and enzymes, low temperatures are used in preparing food. After dining at Omar’s Rawtopia, you left feeling good. In summer 2017, Rawtopia moved from its original Sugar House location to a spacious, cool space in Millcreek. The stark white walls, super-tall ceilings and colorful artwork create a cozy, modern ambiance with ample seating, natural light and a friendly, casual vibe. The restaurant’s large front window offers impressive valley views—watching a sunset here is breathtaking. Servers happily explain the menu (which includes the new Asian salad (see p. 22, $18) and answer any questions. Simply put: It’s feel-good food in a brand-new space. Chef and owner Omar Abou-Ismail has brought along his beloved menu and added a few cooked macrobiotic options that include hearty soups and vegetable dishes. There’s a buffalo burger ($20), made with organic grass-fed bison as well as entrées featuring wild Alaskan salmon. There’s more welcome news, too: Wine (organic and vegan, naturally), local beer and cider are now available. There’s something for everyone, even for those who don’t think raw vegan food would satisfy them. Of course, it just wouldn’t be Rawtopia without its classic dishes such as the pizza ($17). The buckwheat crust is thick, crunchy and so satisfying. It’s topped with greens dressed in a flavorful marinara sauce, basil pesto and chunks of avocado and flavorful black olives. A generous dusting of housemade seed cheese adds a unique, crunchy texture and a cheesy, pizza flavor. The seaweed roll ($16) is another favorite. Wonderfully crunchy ground macadamia nuts replace the rice, and the rolls are stuffed with avocado, carrots and other tasty veggies and served with a rich dipping sauce—try the sweet-and-savory almond curry sauce. Add plantains or greens for an extra $2 to make the dish more filling. Rawtopia’s desserts are still mind-bogglingly delicious. Years ago, the berry cheesecake ($8) changed my perception of what raw food means. It’s creamy, tangy and sweet—all without dairy or processed sugar. Or heat. Baked goods are popping up, too, which has my mouth watering. With the menu update, new space and the continued commitment to serving healthy, organic, gluten-free food, there’re even more reasons to experience Rawtopia. ❖

Nut burger

Berry cheesecake

Rawtopia 3961 S. Wasatch Blvd., Millcreek 801-486-0332 —By Amanda Rock Photos by John Taylor Devour Utah • January 2018 23



Things We






It’s not like we haven’t gushed about Amour Spreads (1329 S. 500 East, SLC, 888-554-6845, in these pages before. Made with fresh mountaingrown fruit, these jars of wonder can be sampled at the Rio Grande Winter Market. The Cranberry Orange Marmalade on a biscuit will melt in your mouth or try a spoonful in your martini for a Cosmo effect. $8 for 9-ounce jar.


Should your pastry accoutrements need updating, consider replacing your old rolling pin with one of these sparkling beauties, lovingly handcrafted and bejeweled with turquoise by Rex Burningham (available at the Winter Market or online at Burningham’s wooden bowls, wine stoppers and pepper mills make exquisite gifts. $45

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It goes without saying that locally made salsas leave most national brands in the compost heap. But the 33 salsas and pestos of Salsa Del Diablo ( are even more rave-worthy. While they consistently create limited batches for the Winter Market, it’s hard to beat a heaping scoop of their classic, smoke-tinged red chipotle Diablo Salsa on fresh housemade yellow corn chips. Check the website for store outlets. Salsa $4 for 8 ounces; $7 for 16 ounces. Chips $4 at market, $5 at stores.


Ready to give up your soda addiction in 2018? Make the switch to kombucha, and thrive on the difference. The Mamachari Kombucha Brewery & Taproom (455 S. 400 West, SLC, 385-2023391, brews its own fermented teas, said to aid digestion and gut health. The effervescent Mint Lime—available at the Winter Market, the Taproom and stores such as Jade Market—is nothing short of refreshing. 12-ounce bottle $3.95





Contemporary Japanese Dining

1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE | 385-259-0712 4670 HOLLADAY VILLAGE PLAZA (2300 EAST) | 801-676-9706 149 EAST 200 SOUTH | 385-259-0940



18 MARKET STREET • 801.519.9595

New Year, New You!



801-713-9423 5692 South 900 Eatst Murray, UT 84121

Warm up this winter with our gourmet sipping chocolate! Now available at select Harmon’s, Caputo’s, Cucina, Dave’s Health, Water & Wellness, and more! 774 S. 300 W. Salt Lake City, UT 84101 Thurs-Sat 11 am - 7 pm Devour Utah • January 2018 25

t I e t a l P

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or nearly eight years, The Copper Onion has been redefining local cuisine, offering uncommon and approachable dishes that keep the place humming on the reg. If you’re in the loop (read: you follow them on social media), then you know once one of their seasonal dishes rears its head, it’s a signal fire to hustle in and eat it before it’s replaced with their next conception; But the true prize has been staring at you from their menu this whole time: The Copper Onion Burger. Created by owner/chef Ryan Lowder at the time of Copper Onion’s inception, The Copper Onion Burger has been the go-to for an untold number of regulars. Consistent, simple and uniquely balanced, this might well be the dragon their chefs are chasing with every menu change. Built with Niman Ranch beef, rendered duck fat aioli, onions caramelized with wine and sugar, shredded iceberg lettuce and topped with a bun made in-house daily by Chef Manny, this bovine beauty is seared on a perfectly seasoned plancha and topped with an optional slice of Tillamook cheddar. Served with a skewer of housemade pickles and a side of steak fries or arugula salad. ❖

The Copper Onion Burger 111 E. 300 South, No.170 801-355-3282

—Bryan Mannos Photos by Josh Scheuerman

Devour Utah • January 2018 27

Moab’s red-rock desert is just the spot for Capt. Nick Lee to recharge before returning to sea.

By Aimee L. Cook Photos courtesy of Nick Lee


apt. Nick Lee discovered his love for fishing at a young age in Seattle. Now a resident of Moab, he remembers fishing with his father as a young boy, and being fascinated by the fishing boats that came through the locks, especially the ones returning from Alaska. Lee’s uncle built “crabbers” (boats used to catch king crabs) as a profession in the 1970s, and would share many stories of fishermen’s adventures he heard from their days on the Bering Sea. “When I was in grade school, my dad would take us out fishing on Puget Sound, and we would get pretty close to the ocean,” Lee says. “We started out in just a dingy and would troll for salmon. As we got better at it, we got

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a bigger boat, and I really started to enjoy it. Once we started catching our own, I realized that good, fresh fish did not taste ‘fishy.’ My family got more health conscience as we continued fishing and eating fresh fish.” Lee got into commercial fishing in 1983 by stepping in for his older brother, John, who was injured on his fishing boat in Sitka, Alaska. Lee and the crew trolled for salmon in the Gulf of Alaska. Working for free, Lee learned the ropes, but the move would pay large dividends. At the end of his first season, he took a job in a seafoodprocessing plant, where he worked for the next two years. Progressing up the ladder, he became the first line of quality control and graded all five species of Pacific

“We started out in just a dingy and would troll for salmon. As we got better at it, we got a bigger boat, and I really started to enjoy it.” — Capt. Nick Lee

salmon, halibut and black cod as they came off the boats. Lee then went back to fishing with his brother, who now was able to pay him, and earned enough to pay for college tuition. After two years, Lee took a summer job on another boat as a crewman fishing Alaska’s Bristol Bay. That experience solidified his standing in the industry. The captain of that boat was the president and CEO of Bering Select Seafood, a seafood-trading company based in Seattle. “I was their first employee; [it was] my first job after college,” Lee says. “They hired me to buy fish out of Alaska and market it in Asia and Europe.” In 1995, Lee partnered with his brother and together they bought their first fishing boat called the Elusive. They fished

"I fell in love with Moab, ever since my first visit." —Nick Lee

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A Fisherman out of Water

Lee's boat, the Anasazi, is hoisted during construction.

The Anasazi, under construction

salmon in Bristol Bay until 2006, when Lee went solo and took on a crew of his own. Lee has traded up his fishing boat a few times since then, most recently building a new boat called the Anasazi in 2015. The aim of Lee’s current business, Alaska Seafood Select, is to pass only the highest-quality fish to his customers. He educates consumers about the importance of “knowing your source.” He’s worked with Leader Creek Fisheries, another Seattle-based company, since 2002, and together they share a goal to maintain sustainability while ensuring that the consumer receives a product that’s as close to a fresh-outof-water salmon as possible. They accomplish this through state-of-the-art filleting, freezing and packaging technology. Lee delivers fish twice a year—in the spring and fall— through buying clubs from Washington to Utah. A fisherman’s schedule lends itself to spending winter months off the water. The fishing season for salmon runs

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The good ol' days: Nick Lee, left, and brother weighing their catch.

during June and July. Lee fishes Bristol Bay those two months and then spends his off-time in Moab. Having discovered Moab in 1996 after visiting New Mexico and venturing north, Lee always wanted to return. “I came primarily for the mountain biking and climbing,” Lee says. “I fell in love with Moab, ever since my first visit. I was trying to figure out a way to spend more time here.” So he made the move in 2010. According to Lee, Moab is a great environment in which to reboot, to gear up for those grueling two months on the water. “I enjoy the competitiveness of fishing,” Lee says. “I grew up playing competitive sports, and that aspect is appealing to me. Every year, Mother Nature throws something different at you. “You can’t ever get into a comfortable pattern,” he continues. “You don’t know exactly how the run is going to come in, and you need to be able to figure that out in real time—a lot of it will be a hunch.” ❖

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Chef’s Table Start with fresh ingredients

Pan-roasted Salmon With Cauliflower Purée and Sherryglazed Brussels Sprouts Recipe by Shane Baird | Photos by Mariah O’Malley Cauliflower purée 1 pound fresh cauliflower florets 2½ cups half & half 1 tablespoon kosher salt Sherry-glazed Brussels sprouts 1 pound fresh Brussels sprouts cut thinly width-wise 1 cup fresh bacon, diced small 1½ cups shallots or yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon fresh garlic, minced 1 ounce olive oil 1 ounce sherry vinegar Pinch of salt and black pepper

Salmon plated and ready to serve

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Celery salad 4 celery stalks cut thinly on an angle Celery leaves from the inside of the bunch ½ lemon ½ ounce olive oil Grilled salmon filets 4 fresh salmon filets (about 7 ounces each) 2 ounces olive oil

Method: In a medium pot, combine cauliflower purée ingredients and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently until cauliflower is completely tender. Strain and purée cauliflower in a blender or food processor, adding strained liquid to the purée until it reaches a consistency that will coat the back of a spoon. In a large, hot sauté pan, add the olive oil and bacon and cook until bacon is golden in color. Add the garlic and shallots and simmer until the shallots start to caramelize. Next, add the Brussels sprouts and cook for about 4-5 minutes on medium heat until they start to brown. Pour the sherry vinegar over the Brussels sprouts and cook for about a minute until everything is shiny and lightly glazed. Finish by seasoning with salt and black pepper. In a small bowl, mix cut celery and celery leaves, then dress with olive oil and fresh lemon juice and season with salt. Let sit for 5 minutes. Place a large nonstick pan on medium to high heat and add the olive oil. Once the pan is hot, add the salmon until it’s seared and golden. Flip over and cook for another 3-4 minutes, until firm to the touch. To Plate: Spoon the cauliflower purée in the center of the plate and add the Brussels sprouts on top. Place the salmon over the Brussels sprouts and garnish with the celery leaf salad. From our kitchen to yours, enjoy.

Heat cauliflower in half & half and purée in blender

Saute bacon and carmelize garlic and shallots

Add Brussels sprouts and glaze with sherry vinegar

Garnish with lemon and celery leaf salad


Shane Baird & Mariah O’Malley

Shane Baird is the executive chef and senior consultant at Culinary Elevations, based in Salt Lake City. Baird's love affair with salmon began in his early 20s when he worked as an apprentice in fine-dining kitchens in France and Spain. There, he learned varied methods for cooking and serving salmon. Not only did he love to cook and prepare the fish, he also loved to catch them. As a professional fishing guide on the Susitna River in central Alaska just south of Denali National Park, he spent his days fishing for a variety of salmon species. He came to love the assorted ways to prepare this amazing fish. Chef Baird spent the past 15 years honing his skills as an executive chef and culinary industry consultant. A graduate of the prestigious New England Culinary Institute in Vermont, Baird trained in Michelin-starred kitchens and has worked closely with Michelin-starred chefs Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Wolfgang Puck. After working beside the greats and traveling the world to do so, Chef Baird decided to open Culinary Elevations in Utah to bring his joy of cooking and food to the tables of hungry patrons along the Wasatch Front. Baird and the staff at Culinary Elevations are available for private dinners and events. ❖

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e y R IN







n 1964, bourbon whiskey became “America’s Native Spirit” in a congressional act signed by President Lyndon Johnson. But in between the rum-soaked days of the pre-Revolution republic and national Prohibition (1920-1933), rye whiskey—not bourbon—was arguably the most common tipple of our country’s formative years. In fact, Scottish distiller James Anderson convinced George Washington that in addition to setting up an on-site gristmill to process crops grown on Washington’s plantation, surplus grain should be converted to lucrative whiskey. By

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1799, Mount Vernon distillery was one of the largest booze manufacturers in our fledgling nation. In its second year of operation, it produced 10,942 gallons of whiskey made primarily with rye—a grain familiar to European colonists— and a good dose of New-World corn. Following in the footsteps of European traditions before them, most of America’s earliest distilling operations were small community-based enterprises, often set up as part of agricultural cooperatives. Any extra harvest not used for feeding livestock and people could be converted into more portable (and shelf-stable) alcohol in the form of whiskey,





By 1799, Mount Vernon distillery was one of the largest booze manufacturers in our fledgling nation.

beer, hard cider, applejack (distilled cider) and spirits made from other fruits. From New England, all along the Eastern Seaboard and into hilly western Pennsylvania famous for its Whiskey Rebellion of 1794, highly dispersed, relatively unregulated and defiantly tax-resistant rye whiskey distillers dominated. And in the South, cornforward bourbon boomed. Prohibition almost completely wiped out the straight rye market; only a few already-established producers like Buffalo Trace in Kentucky kept registered “medicinal” sales licenses through the restricted years. Following Prohibition, Americans eschewed relatively spicy, more grain-forward rye whiskey and embraced sweeter bourbon and blended whiskies from Canada. Starting in the 1970s, sales of American whiskey in both bourbon and rye varieties took a huge hit from our country’s ever-mercurial taste buds as vodka dominated the market through the 1990s. However, rye’s stamp on the formative years of cocktail culture remains. Of the “classic” bar standards, three drinks are synonymous

Devour Utah • January 2018 35

Resurgence in Rye



Manhattans stirred up in the late 19th century were originally made with rye, but those who prefer their cocktails on the sweeter side mixed theirs with bourbon.

with rye: the Manhattan, Sazerac and Old Fashioned. And its popularity as a “call” drink embodying gumption and grit endures in film, from gunslingers calling for a bottle in pretty much every spaghetti-western saloon, to hazy barstool scenes in Humphrey Bogart noir classics. Rye’s association with spunk and stamina is something that industry experts note as part of whiskey’s dramatic rebirth. The Distilled Spirits Council (the national trade organization representing U.S. producers and marketers) notes bourbon and Tennessee whiskey volumes grew 28.5 percent and revenues rose 46.7 percent between 2009 and 2014. In comparison, rye has shown an almost 800 percent growth since 2009, although rye remains a relatively small percentage of overall American whiskey sales ($150.9 million for rye versus $3.1 billion for bourbon and Tennessee whiskey in 2016). As a now-legendary example, in 2007, David and Jane Perkins started High West Distillery, Utah’s first legal distillery since before Prohibition. In doing so, they rode the beginning swells of this century’s brown-liquor rebirth to great acclaim.

36 Devour Utah • January 2018

They hit the market with almost-perfect timing: In 2006, 100-proof classic brand Rittenhouse Rye was named “North American Whiskey of the Year” at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, and dusty rye bottles were moving from the bottom shelf to eye level at influential bars across the country. Spice-forward rye was making a comeback. Dave Perkins, a biochemist, was inspired during a trip to Maker’s Mark bourbon distillery in Kentucky to study fermenting and distilling, and brought that passion to Park City. However, it takes years, if not decades, to bring aged whiskey to market. Although Perkins started with a 250-gallon pot still at their saloon in old town Park City, he sourced the bulk of High West’s whiskey by the barrel from established Eastern manufacturers who had hung onto their delicious surpluses even during the whiskey doldrums of the ’80s and ’90s. Perkins also incorporated multi-year and multi-spirit blending strategies, creating popular bottles like Campfire, a crazy-like-a-fox rye-bourbon-Scotch blend. Jeff Thompson, president and founder of the 350-plus member Salt Lake City-based Whisky Drinkers Union affinity

80 years of tradition

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Devour Utah • January 2018 37

Resurgence in Rye Dave Perkins founded High West Distillery in 2007



Oregon's Ransom spirits is an example of how craft distilleries are diversifying the market.

group, says of one of his first revelatory experiences with whiskey was trying High West’s Rendezvous Rye. It was one of the brand’s initial offerings, and Thompson reminisces that it “conjured up images of Dave Perkins poking though dusty rickhouses with only a flashlight to pick barrels and steal them off to his lab in the Utah mountains.” Thompson acknowledges that it’s probably not a completely accurate representation of Perkins’ method, but it fits with High West’s romantic and Indiana Jones-like marketing strategy. Unlike many other whiskey brands that jumped on the bandwagon in the early 2000s claiming original recipes and long-lost pre-Prohibition distilling histories that often turned out to be complete BS, Perkins was upfront and transparent about his sourcing model. His gamble paid off. In a controversial move, Whisky Advocate named Perkins “Pioneer of the Year” in 2010, applauding him in equal parts for his innovative business paradigm and for bringing delicious whiskey to the market in an approachable way. Following the approximately $160 million buyout of High West by Constellation Brands in 2016, Perkins was named by the same critics as “Distiller of the 38 Devour Utah • January 2018

Year” claiming this as justification: “Yes, High West, a craft distiller based in Utah, is a great American success story. However, their success is not the reason for our recognition, but just one more result of what whiskey enthusiasts know to be true: High West delivers innovative and delicious whiskeys, expands the definition of what it is to be a distiller, and pioneered a successful new paradigm for craft distilling.” High West might be one of the most highly visible players in the rye reboot of the 21st century, but Utah-based wine and spirits expert Francis Fecteau of Libation Inc. says that model is only one part of a bigger craft spirits-driven story. He points to smaller groups like Ransom Spirits in Oregon and Sugar House Distillery as examples of how craft distilling brings delicious diversity to the market. Fecteau says, “Much of the rye on the current market comes from the same place,” sourced from a factory in Indiana called MGP Ingredients (formerly Lawrenceburg Distillers Indiana, and before that, Seagram’s, including its stocks of rye standard distilled from 95 percent rye and 5 percent malted barley). As an example of MGP’s industry domination, a global investment group called Osbourne


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Resurgence in Rye




“We work directly with farmers to get fresh grain.” —Sugar House Distillery owner James Fowler

Global Investments traced MGP’s 95 percent rye recipe product to almost 100 brands on the market in 2015. In comparison, Fecteau applauds craft distillers for bringing rye back to its roots as a spirit based in the agricultural traditions of a specific place. “It’s an exciting time for craft distilling. The grain and the whiskey are produced in the same place; it’s very terroir driven,” much like wine. And it also happens to make for very tasty whiskey. Sugar House Distillery owner James Fowler agrees with the idea that craft whiskey is an integral part of regional agriculture. “We work directly with farmers to get fresh grain,” he says, sourcing it from Delta, Utah, and Idaho Falls, Idaho. They mill the grain on-site at the distillery. Lead distiller Eric Robinson notes that working with rye is a challenge. “It’s hard to work with a 100 percent rye because it’s very viscous. But using fresh local rye makes a better product,” he says. The agricultural process goes full circle at Sugar House Distillery, as another local farmer collects the leftover grain mash to feed his livestock. Fecteau is a fan of SHD’s 40 Devour Utah • January 2018

thoughtful local ingredient-driven approach. “It’s an original spirit. Tasting a truly small-batch rye like Sugar House reminds you that whiskey is made out of grain.” It’s a spirit with less of an emphasis on the contact with wood during aging, and more about the ingredients that make up the spirit itself: local grain, yeast and mountain-fresh water. So, celebrate an American classic with a simple glass of Utah rye. Or try out some of Salt Lake’s favorite rye-forward cocktails in this issue’s Spirit Guide. Cheers to that! ❖ High West Distillery 27649 Old Lincoln Highway Wanship 435-649-8300 Sugar House Distillery 2212 S. West Temple, Unit No. 14, SLC 801-726-0403


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Devour Utah • January 2018 41

Spirit Guide


RYE EYE in your



f any spirit can be said to have ridden the craft-cocktail wave of the 21st century in style, it’s rye whiskey. A key component of pre-Prohibition classics, the reboot of rye as a spirits category has mirrored the boom of the craft-cocktail scene since the early 2000s. Also, rye whiskey generally does not require as much time in the barrel to achieve great results like bourbon or malt whiskey do, meaning it can be a great bargain for bartenders and home-bar connoisseurs alike. “We’ve had a solid artisanal rye selection since we opened,” says HSL bar manager Clif Reagle, who likes rye whiskey for both its approachability and depth of flavor for the price. “I think rye is more interesting to mix within cocktails than, say, bourbon,” Reagle says, noting that the very pronounced flavors come through even when used in combination with other spirits. He says some ryes can be very herbaceous, while others are malty or have more spicy notes, such as cinnamon.

Explore the diversity of rye cocktails by sampling the following concoctions. 42 Devour Utah • January 2018

The Drink

Four Whiskey Flight

The Maker

High West Distillery High West Saloon, 703 Park Ave., Park City 801-204-4786

Sure, the drink menus at all three High West Saloon locations sport a slew of craft cocktails. But to get to the root of understanding rye whiskey’s complexity, you can’t go wrong with a 2-ounce tasting flight, whether it be at the original bar and restaurant in Park City, at the distillery’s beautiful refectory in Wanship, or at Salt Lake International Airport. Yes, the airport. A great introduction to the Utah brand’s lineup, the High West 101 flight includes four ½-ounce pours (totaling 2-ounces of product) of its Silver Western Oat, Double Rye!, Son of Bourye and popular Campfire blend, which the ever-knowledgeable bartenders are happy to walk you through for tasting notes. My favorite, though, is the High West “Reserve” flight, featuring the complexity of Rendezvous Rye, award-winning Midwinter Night’s Dram, American Prairie Reserve and Campfire blend. What’s the best way to face a snowy day flight delay? A flight of great whiskey.





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Spirit Guide

Piedmont Sour


RYE EYE in your

1½ ounces rye whiskey ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice ¾ ounce simple syrup ½ ounce Carpano Antica ½ ounce Tiamo Barbera

To a cocktail shaker with ice add all ingredients except for the wine. Shake until chilled and well combined. Strain into a coupe glass, and slowly add the Tiamo Barbera or other dry red wine. Garnish with a Luxardo cherry.

The Drink

Piedmont Sour

The Maker

Kelson Westervelt

An SLC favorite for upscale Italian fare, it’s always a pleasure to see Stanza’s bartenders embracing northern Italian ingredients to make standout cocktails like the Piedmont Sour. Bartender Kelson Westervelt says, “It’s a bright New York Sour variant, using a gold standard Italian vermouth and great wine,” which provide both a velvety base note in the Carpano Antica and the traditional “floater” of a bright, acidic wine like Tiamo Barbera to balance the rye whiskey's sweet spice. Westervelt enjoys playing around with different ryes to see how the drink subtly changes. In my case, he shook it up with High West Double Rye! whiskey, but he’s also a fan of Sugar House Distillery’s rye, which he recommends in another cocktail on the menu, the San Francisco Treat.

44 Devour Utah • January 2018


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Spirit Guide

I’m Your Huckleberry


RYE EYE in your

1 ounce rye whiskey 1 ounce dark rum ¾ ounce lime juice ¾ ounce carménère (red wine) ½ ounce simple syrup ¼ ounce ruby port ¼ ounce allspice dram 2 dashes Angostura bitters

Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake until well chilled. Strain into an old-fashioned glass with large ice cubes. Garnish with three huckleberries.

The Drink

I’m Your Huckleberry

The Maker

Josh Novaski

Bartender Josh Novaski is the first to admit that this is not a Cocktails 101 example of mixology, as it has some unusual ingredients. “This recipe did turn out a bit long-winded” he says, but the resulting cocktail is exactly what he shoots for when developing a drink: refreshing, spicy and complex. He especially loves it as a cold-weather cocktail with classic warm flavors. Although it has been off the High West menu for several years, it was enough of a bar favorite that he submitted it for the soon-to-be released US Bartenders Guild Utah chapter's Drynks Guide.

46 Devour Utah • January 2018


Drynks Guide, by the Utah chapter of the US Bartenders Guild


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Devour Utah • January 2018 47

Spirit Guide

Classic Rye Manhattan


RYE EYE in your

1½ ounces rye whiskey ½ ounce Vittore sweet vermouth 3 drops saline 2 dashes Angostura bitters To a mixing glass with fresh, pure ice, add all ingredients. Stir until well chilled; strain into a coupe or Nick & Nora glass. Garnish with an artisan cherry.

The Drink

Classic Rye Manhattan

The Maker

Clif Reagle

Did you know that back in the day, each of New York’s boroughs had their own signature cocktail? HSL Bar Manager Clif Reagle shares that bit of cocktail ephemera as he stirs up his version of a classic Manhattan using local grain-toglass Sugar House Distillery rye whiskey and special-order French vermouth. Case in point: You’ll sometimes spot The Brooklyn—also made with rye but with maraschino liqueur instead of vermouth—on craft-cocktail menus. But Reagle acknowledges that the Manhattan reigns supreme in public imagination. “People order what they know,” he says. He also asserts that what sets a great Manhattan apart from merely a good one is using quality booze; as a rule, the fewer ingredients in a drink, the less noise there is to hide behind. “It’s all about balance,” he says. “If you’re using a higher-proof rye, you may need to stir a little longer.” ❖

48 Devour Utah • January 2018


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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

g n i t a r b e l Ce

5 7 YRS


he secret to the longevity of the Utah Restaurant Association (URA) and Utah restaurants is the ability to reboot and identify what is and isn’t working; while staying fresh, effective and relevant. 2018 brings a new year and the URA will be celebrating 75 years of excellence as the voice of Utah’s restaurant industry. The URA has a rich history rooted deeply in community and accented by the unique capacity to celebrate the dynamic membership base of Utah restaurants by including 50 Devour Utah • January 2018

Our mission: to represent our industry and make certain we prosper will never change. It is at the forefront of everything we do. From representation and advocacy, to education, promotion and marketing, the Utah Restaurant Association serves Utah restaurants for the success of our industry. Thank you for your support, it is a privilege to represent the hard-working restaurant professionals. Join us as we celebrate 75 years of excellence, your voice matters!

local, independent restaurant, local franchises and franchisees. Utah’s restaurant industry has seen tremendous economic growth as the third fastest growing restaurant industry in the country, and the third largest economic engine in the state. The URA is actively engaged throughout the business community representing restaurant’s best interests on boards and committees statewide as well as in local cities, counties, and communities throughout Utah. We have strategic partnerships with the

Park City Area Restaurant Association, the National Restaurant Association, Board of National Council of State Restaurant Associations and work with the American Culinary Federation’s local Beehive State Chefs Chapter. We offer the premier nationally and internationally recognized ServSafe Manager, Food Handler, Alcohol, and Allergens trainings; all gold-standard and industry-created training. The URA works with local, statewide and national food safety standards to ensure that Utah restaurants remain at the


save date the

The URA 2018 Diamond Restaurant Industry Awards Gala

Monday, May 7th at The Grand America

forefront of America’s most trusted industries. We have been proactive in developing state-wide programs for workplace safety and training the next generation of restaurant professionals through ProStart, our high school classroom culinary education program created by the nations top industry professionals. Our marketing and educational programming has been recognized and honored with Teleawards and Emmy awards. The success of our restaurant industry is reliant upon the selfless service

of board members, officers and our partners; who all understand the need for inclusion, to work together putting the best interests of the industry ahead of their own individual business in a respectful way to create lasting improvements and ensuring fair and equitable treatment of all restaurants and every member of the restaurant community. Other cities, states, and countries have called on the knowledge and experience of the Utah Restaurant Association as Utah continues to lead the way.

Ticket sales coming soon at and For Sponsorship opportunities contact: Katy Sine Jami Larson

Devour Utah • January 2018 51

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

Taste Utah is rebooting and preparing for the season three by moving to

Utah’s CW30 on Saturday morning at 11:00 AM. Behind every good food story is a great people story and Utah’s favorite local food television program will be back on

Saturday, January 27, 2017.

Taste Utah is a 13 episode television series showcasing Utah’s diverse and thriving restaurant industry and is complemented by — a first of its kind local interactive dining guide featuring over 80 videos and thousands of delicious Utah restaurant food photos. Join host’s Jami and Katy as they take you on an epic food road trip where dining is the destination. They highlight authentically Utah restaurant stories along with Utah’s food community and the people that make eating in Utah so special. From the hands of Utah’s hard-working farmers, ranchers, and purveyors through the ingenuity of Utah’s top chef’s, landmark restaurants, and best-kept secrets, Katy and Jami share food adventures that will inspire you to conquer Utah’s culinary landscape one bite at a time.

You can participate in Utah’s food culture every Saturday morning at 11:00 AM on Utah’s CW30 or by hash tagging

#TasteUtah on all your Utah restaurant food photos!

52 Devour Utah • January 2018

Katy’s resume holding many different positions in restaurants, along with her life-long dedication as a loyal patron of Utah restaurants, allows her to bring an insightful and informed “insider” perspective to Taste Utah. Spending time working as a food writer, and now for the Utah Restaurant Association as a part of the “Mel’s Angels” team has only stoked Katy’s desire to bring more awareness to the dynamic restaurant offerings and tremendously hardworking food professionals in Utah. Katy knows the amount of intention that goes into every inch of a restaurant. She loves traveling the state to share the inspiring stories and faces of the people who contribute to Utah’s thriving restaurant industry. She feels there is no more noble profession than that of a restaurateur, a chef or a farmer. At its very core food is a necessity, the way in which it is grown and shared creates community. Katy believes Utah is a dining destination and invites everyone to be part of the Taste Utah community.

Jami has been both an avid food enthusiast as well as held many positions within Utah’s restaurant industry. While working for the Utah Restaurant Association as one of “Mel’s Angels” — a term she affectionately coined for Melva Sine, URA president; Jami understands first-hand the extraordinary people that contribute to creating dining experiences. Her adventurous spirit, a deep love for Utah’s immaculate landscapes and more scenic byways create a perfect perspective as she strives to guide her culinary curiosity. Growing up in northern Utah, Jami spent her childhood working on her Grandpa’s farm and has carried a deep appreciation for farm-to-table and the folks that keep farming to this day. A desire to share the stories of these dedicated people, her attention to details and keen eye especially in the aesthetic ambience of any location along with a curiosity into the science behind food chemistry keeps Jami encouraging Utah to get tasting!

y t Ka Meet

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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

Sego Restaurant: Kanab UT

The holidays are officially over and the doldrums of January are starting to set in. Are you needing a reboot…? Time to take a road trip… but where? Snowfall getting you down…? It is January in Utah, after-all. We offer you not only a glimpse into Season three of Taste Utah but an invitation to make dining your destination with this nugget of a restaurant; Sego Restaurant in Kanab, Utah. Inversion free— blue skies for days, with an adventure backdrop boasting three National Parks, numerous geological attractions and national monuments. Kanab is “magically unspoiled” and home to extraordinary dining. Owner Jason Neely and chef Shon Foster believe food is about connecting places, flavors and people. The new American cuisine of Sego restaurant does exactly that. Flavors and cooking techniques are layered and paired in such a way that you cannot resist a true appreciation for unique unexpected flavors in one of the most breathtaking scenic landscapes in the world. Chef Shon and owner Jason are often found interacting with guests, sharing local’s only stories and insider information. A big city menu with small town feels… this is exactly why Sego Restaurant is a Taste Utah dining destination. And after a quick road trip to southern Utah, your tastebuds and your lungs will thank you.

Join your hosts Katy and Jami on ABC4 for restaurant inspiration and dining destinations during the ABC4 News at Midday. Get insider access, meet the chef and watch to win a dining destination gift certificate! Check out TasteUtah on instagram for updates and keep posting your food photos with #TasteUtah. Devour Utah • January 2018 53





ZERO ELECTRICITY Twelve teens compete on the Emmy award winning series TeenChef Pro for a four year scholarship to Johnson & Wales University and the ultimate title of TeenChef Pro champion. Beginning October 7, 2017 on Utah’s CW 30 at 11:00AM.


54 Devour Utah • January 2018

Behind every good food story, is a great people story. Join your hosts Katy and Jami as we take a bite out of Utah’s food culture with this food forward weekly series. Each episode is a road trip across our state where we discover unique Utah dining destinations, chefs, farmers and the stories behind their craft. Season 3 of Taste Utah begins January of 2018 on Utah’s CW 30 at 11:00AM

Get Tasting With Us!

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

Your Place Is With Us. Become A Member Today.

Safely Served ServSafe® Manager Certification

Utah Food Handler Permit Made Easy

The Utah Restaurant Association offers unparalleled training in ServSafe® Manager Certification. ServSafe® is internationally recognized as the gold standard within the restaurant industry. Class and test are offered every Wednesday at the Utah Restaurant Association. Please call to reserve your spot today.

ServSafe® Food Handler is the nation’s premier provider of food safety training. Now available in Utah with 24/7 access online. Visit Create an account, select Utah and purchase your class and test… It’s that easy! Once completed your permit will be mailed to you.

The Utah Restaurant will travel to your location for classes of 10 students or more. Call our office to schedule a ServSafe® Manager Certification group class and test.

Looking for Food Handler training for your staff? The Utah Restaurant Association will travel for classes of 10 students or more. With affordable pricing and exceptional teachers, call the URA to schedule a group class for your employees today.


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The success of Utah’s food industry is our business. Your membership with URA offers your business valuable costsavings on everyday expenses, networking and business building opportunities, vital industry representation and advocacy. It means being part of the only organization in the state devoted to protecting and promoting the interests of the food service industry in Utah.

Join the Utah Restaurant Association today. 801.274.7309 Devour Utah • January 2018 55


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Under Pressure

For foolproof pho, bring out the Instant Pot. By Ari LeVaux


tend to do my cooking by improvisation, but that doesn’t work with pho— Vietnam’s internationally beloved comfort food—despite its apparent simplicity. The steaming meal is both soup and salad in the same bowl, a fragrant beef broth in which delicate rice noodles and meat parts comingle with fresh herbs and sprouts, amid a customized mixture of condiments. The broth can be elusive, even if you know what the ingredients are. Inevitably, one or more of the spices will come on too strong, resulting in more of an unbalanced cacophony than the understated, harmonious symphony that has conquered the slurping masses. My numerous failures left me discouraged, with no other choice than to head for my local pho shop to get my fix. But this drought ended when Andrea Nguyen, the undisputed authority on Vietnamese food in America, was kind enough to email me the keys to the kingdom. I found myself on a list of recipe testers for Nguyen’s masterful cookbook, The Pho Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2017). My main assignment was to help replicate and troubleshoot the recipe for pressure-cooker pho, a method that expedites the usual hours-long simmering of bones behind your typical bowl of pho. Other than the wholly unexpected addition of a quartered apple—Nguyen’s substitute for Vietnamese rock sugar—there weren’t any surprises in the ingredient list. I’d used them all before in my previous failed attempts. But this time, I used my trusty Instant Pot, an electric pressure cooker that bears a striking resemblance to R2D2—right down to the endearing beeps it makes at various points in the cooking process. If you’ve ever been spooked by the rattling and hissing of a stovetop pressure cooker that seemed on the verge of detonating in your kitchen, the Instant Pot is a silent alternative that won’t even release the flavors of its contents into the kitchen air. I had entered the pho-bidden kingdom, and it was good. With Nguyen’s permission, I share the pressure-cooker pho recipe that I helped test. Being a lover of pho and my Instant Pot, this recipe has worn a very soft spot in my heart and belly. For space reasons, I had to condense her recipe from the printed version. It should be enough to get you started. But if you really want to get with the pho-gram, you’ll need your own copy.

Pressure Cooker Beef Pho Email resumes to Jennifer Van Grevenhof

Adapted with permission from The Pho Cookbook by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2017)

Ingredients Broth 3 pounds beef bones 1 pound beef brisket, unsliced 2½ star anise pods (20 robust points, total) 1 3-inch piece of cinnamon 3 whole cloves Chubby, 2-inch section of ginger, peeled, thickly sliced, bruised 1 large yellow onion, halved and thickly sliced 1 small Fuji apple, peeled, cored, and cut into thumbnail-size chunks 2¼ teaspoons fine sea salt 2 tablespoons fish sauce 1 teaspoon sugar

56 Devour Utah • January 2018


Pressure Cooker Beef Pho

Bowls 10 ounces dried, narrow rice noodles Cooked beef from the broth, sliced thin 4-5 ounces thinly sliced raw beef steak ½ small red or yellow onion, thinly sliced against the grain and soaked in water for 10 minutes 2 thinly sliced green onions, green parts only ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Black pepper, to taste Optional: bean sprouts, chile slices, mint, Thai basil, lime wedges, hoisin sauce, Sriracha sauce. (Nguyen gives recipes for homemade versions of hoisin sauce, chile sauce, sate sauce and garlic vinegar)


Rinse bones. Toast the spices on medium heat in the pressure cooker for a few minutes, shaking or stirring, until fragrant. Add ginger and onion; stir until aromatic and slightly charred. Add 4 cups water to stop the cooking process. Add the bones, brisket, apple, salt and 5 more cups of water. Lock the lid and pressure cook for 20 minutes at 15 psi or higher. Remove from heat. Allow pressure to go down to the point where you can open the pressure cooker. Season with fish sauce, salt and sugar if desired. Remove the meat, soak in water for 10

minutes to prevent drying, and set aside until serving time. Refrigerate the broth to make it easy to skim fat, if desired. While broth is cooking, soak the noodles in hot water until pliable and opaque. Drain and rinse and drain again. Divide among four bowls. At serving time, dunk each portion of noodles in boiling water, then replace in the bowls. Top with the brisket, steak, onion, green onion, cilantro and pepper. Heat the broth to a boil and ladle into the bowls. Dive in and add condiments to tweak flavor. Invite people over to savor your handiwork. They'll be slurping until the pho runs dry. ❖

Devour Utah • January 2018 57



I B A R & G RI


4923 S. State St. Murray I 801.278.8682

58 Devour Utah • January 2018

Devour Utah • January 2018 59

60 Devour Utah • January 2018

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