vol. 3 no. 7 • July 2017 • get fresh
SLC’s Urban Backyards p. 14
Mesa Farm Artisan Cheese p. 26
It’s time to
Utah Restaurant Association page 60
Devour Utah • July 2017 1
2 Devour Utah • July 2017
Devour Utah • July 2017 3
Contents 10 14 20 22
Hooked
Fishing for freshness in Utah BY HEATHER L. KING
That’s Fresh!
Exploring SLC’s urban backyards BY JEN HILL
The Spread
Garage on Beck BY AIMEE L. COOK
The Deconstruct Provisions’ hamachi crudo BY TED SCHEFFLER
4 Devour Utah • July 2017
26 31 34
Utah Artisans
Mesa Farm Cheese BY DARBY DOYLE
Things We Love Must-have artisan goodies BY TED SCHEFFLER
Utah Culinary History
Suds in the Salt Lake Valley BY BRIAN FRYER
42 50 66
Cup of Joe
Hugo Coffee Roasters BY AIMEE L. COOK
It’s Five O’clock Somewhere Tiki drinks
BY DARBY DOYLE
Last Bite
Fresh, mindful mastication BY JOANNE MILLER
Devour Utah • July 2017 5
DEVOUR
Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
Photographers
TED SCHEFFLER SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, BRIAN FRYER, JEN HILL, HEATHER L. KING, JOANNE MILLER
Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at abourbongal.com.
NIKI CHAN, JOHN TAYLOR, JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER JOSH SCHEUERMAN, VAUGHN ROBISON
Business/Office Accounting Manager Office Administrator Technical Director
PAULA SALTAS ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS
Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.
Marketing Marketing Manager
JACKIE BRIGGS
Circulation Circulation Manager
LARRY CARTER
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER LISA DORELLI, JEREMIAH SMITH
Brian Fryer is a native Utahn and has a degree in communication from Utah State University. He writes for a number of publications, has been an editor for McGraw-Hill Construction publications and Intermountain Healthcare and city editor for the Park Record newspaper in Park City. He’s a food enthusiast, enjoys cooking and lives with his family in West Jordan.
Cover Photo: Hamachi Crudo at Provisions by Niki Chan Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2017. All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • July 2017
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
An urban farm, slow-food enthusiast and mother of five, Jen Hill s an SLC transplant from Bloomington, Ind. In her second season growing for a local CSA business, Stagl Organics, if she’s not instructing a Pilates class or teaching at Highland High, you’ll most likely find Jen in the garden without shoes— her hands in the dirt!
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Devour Utah • July 2017 7
Substitutions Accept No
Never settle for less than fresh
F
resh ideas. Fresh starts. Fresh foods. Fresh destinations. These are some of the topics we tackle in this Get Fresh issue of Devour Utah. Now, more than ever, it is possible to eat fresh foods from close to their source, just as it is more important than ever to think consciously and clearly about what and how we eat, as Joanne Miller suggests here in her “Last Bite” essay. Dropping into Provisions for “The Deconstruct,” we find chef/owner Tyler Stokes whipping up a fresher-than-fresh, delectable and light hamachi crudo, while Darby Doyle explores the fresh artisan cheeses being lovingly crafted at Mesa Farm in Caineville. You might be surprised to learn that brewing fresh beer in Utah has a long and lustrous history, which Brian Fryer accounts in his “Utah Culinary History” article. Meanwhile, a new brew of another type—fresh coffee—is highlighted in Aimee L. Cook’s profile of Hugo Coffee Roasters in Park City. Local bartenders’ fresh takes on classic tiki cocktails is fun fodder for this issue of Devour, as is an exploration of fresh fish and seafood dishes from some of our favorite restaurants by Heather L. King. Beekeeping, the Green Urban Lunch Box (GULB), organic gardening and CSAs are just some of the topics touched on in Jen Hill’s eye-opening investigation of SLC’s urban backyards—you never know what you might out back! And, if you’re looking for live music combined with comfort food, “The Spread” has you covered with a look at The Garage on Beck, where you can enjoy your fried funeral potatoes and listen to live acts such as the amazing guitarist Bill Kirchen, all right here on Route 89. My mom always reprimanded me for getting fresh. What did she know? ❖
8 Devour Utah • July 2017
KELLY CLINE
Fresh organic produce
—Ted Scheffler Editor
Family. Friends. Food.
3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 2015 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com Best
of Utah
Devour Utah • July 2017 9
Fishing for freshness in Utah BY HEATHER L. KING
Poke Bowl $ .50 14 10 Devour Utah • July 2017
JOHN TAYLOR
Macadamia Crusted Calamari $ 13
Laid Back Poke Shack Poke bowl Hailing from the beautiful state of Hawaii comes classic poke in Holladay. Laid Back Poke Shack offers poke bowls six days a week with ahi and other fish arriving direct from the islands. Load up a regular-sized bowl with rice, cabbage and your choice of three seafood selections from about a dozen choices displayed in the tasting case. Try the traditional ahi tuna poke in various forms— shoyu, spicy or ginger, just to a name a few. Get adventurous with kimchi mussels, sweet chili shrimp or spicy snow crab with fresh avocado to complete your meal. Laid Back Poke Shack 6213 S. Highland Drive, Holladay 801-635-8190 facebook.com/laidbackpokeshack
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
W
here do landlocked Utahns turn when they get a craving for fresh fish? The state has a surprising number of options—from longtime standbys like Market Street Grill to newer offerings such as Current Fish & Oyster. Whether it’s tuna delivered from Hawaii or lobster from Maine, fresh fish appears in just about every shape and variety on menus across Utah. Here are four fresh favorites flown in for your dining pleasure.
The Eklektik Macadamia-crusted calamari With a menu highlighting dishes from Mexico, Europe and South America to start, calamari might not be the first thing diners look to when sampling ethnically diverse cuisine here. However, The Eklektik puts a slightly sweet twist on their version of fried calamari. This macadamia-nut-crusted appetizer offers up crunch from the chopped nuts sprinkled over the squid rings and tentacles, in addition to being lightly tossed in a house sweet-and-sour sauce and garnished with sesame seeds for an eclectic rendition of this staple starter. The Eklektik 60 E. 800 South, SLC 385-528-3675 theeklektik.com
Devour Utah • July 2017 11
Takashi The Box Listed as Takashi’s Hakozushi on the menu but known to its fans as The Box, this offering is one-part sushi roll and onepart art. Composed of amberjack, spicy sauce and tobiko layered over sushi rice, the rectangular creation is topped with high-quality tuna, yellowtail and salmon sashimi. Sliced and served as a roll, The Box is filled with raw delights that entice Salt Lake’s most ardent sushi fans.
$
25
VENESSA HENNINGS
Lobster Roll $
14 .95
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Takashi 18 W. Market St., SLC 801-519-9595
The Box
Freshie’s Lobster Co. Lobster roll Straight from the East Coast, Freshie’s Lobster Co. flies in only the best Maine lobster from the owner’s home state—arriving from shore to door in 24 hours—and hands it over to hungry customers on New England hot dog buns slathered in hot butter. You’ll get 5 ounces of lobster in the XL version or a quarter pound in the Real Mainah for $20, or half of that for $11, plus a menu of other lobster-loving items from either their food truck or new restaurant in Park City. Any way you pick it, this lobster is luscious. Freshie’s Lobster Co. 1897 Prospector Ave., Park City 435-631-9861 freshieslobsterco.com
12 Devour Utah • July 2016 2017
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Devour Utah • July 2017 13
Jeff Lachowski and Rachelle Tuten from Catchin’ a Buzz Honey
THAT’S
Y
Creative ideas abound in SLC’s urban backyards. By Jen Hill 14 Devour Utah • July 2017
ou don’t have to travel far to discover that creative ideas can be found in Salt Lake’s very own backyard spaces. Practicing a hobby or starting a business venture, there are a growing number of locals who are actively participating in some form of urban homesteading. Maybe one of these ideas is on your “someday” to-do list. Let’s find out how small urban backyard spaces are being utilized, and are producing some truly industrious, creative and delicious results.
Let’s introduce some backyard Avenues beekeepers, Jeff Lachowski and Rachelle Tuten from Catchin’ a Buzz Honey and find out what’s a-buzz with their growing business: What got you started with beekeeping? Lachowski: “We love honey! I had learned a few things from a local beekeeper and thought I’d give it a try in our yard. Bees are fascinating creatures and the colony dynamics are amazing to learn about. The more you discover about how bees work together in their queen-lead ‘society,’ the more there is to learn. I could talk all day about the intricacies of how a colony works together to survive and thrive. Did you know the colony can turn any egg into a queen? This occurs in part by feeding the larvae what is known as royal jelly. Just one of many fascinating tidbits of bee culture. “We currently keep eight hives. We provide raw honey to Avenues Bistro on Third, and house a few beehives in their garden behind the restaurant. This is the local aspect we are after: neighborhood restaurants and local food production. In addition, we sell honey at Java Jo’s and Tea Zaanti. The raw honey provided to the Avenues Proper was utilized in brewing the award-winning Stumble Bee Viennese Honey Lager, which we consider the best use of our honey to date!”
The Buzz with Urban Beekeepers Urban beekeepers are growing in number for many practical and ecological reasons, such as creating honest-to-goodness raw honey, beeswax and pollinators for your garden, trees and neighborhood. That being said, taking on beekeeping is a bit more complicated than simply keeping bugs in a jar. When you choose to keep bees, you are taking on a colony, a highly specialized Apis metropolis, which needs your ongoing and knowledgeable support. Building or buying a hive with its queen, registering and learning the basics are the first steps in a long chain of responsibilities in maintaining—but never guaranteeing—a healthy and prosperous bee colony. Keeping bees requires vigilant observation and work, so if you aren’t into putting on protective clothing, getting hot, sticky and stung a few times, beekeeping probably isn’t in the cards for you.
Why is this work so important to you? “Honey is an amazing natural food. Along with many health benefits and unlimited culinary uses, it’s just plain delicious. We value eating local and love to trade our honey for local food. The hives in our yard help pollinate the fruit trees and gardens in the area. Our apple tree has kicked up production ever since we had bees in the yard. “It is fascinating to tend to beehives. I enjoy seeing them do their work, collecting pollen and nectar to build a hive and store honey for the winter. Really, they know what to do, we just help out should a problem arise. As Henry David Thoreau said, ‘The keeping of bees is like the direction of sunbeams.’” Urban Farming, Growing the Change! Catchin’ a Buzz Honey facebook.com/catchinabuzzhoney
Devour Utah • July 2017 15
Green thumb or not, a modest raised bed in your yard or a small hoop house to extend your growing season are ways you can participate in urban gardening. Rethink conventional landscaping: Instead of a pristine lawn of Kentucky Bluegrass, how about growing some edibles? Envision yourself cutting off a sprig of thyme or basil from a planter box, or picking a handful of ripe and warm Indigo cherry tomatoes just moments before mealtime rather than buying them imported, radiated and triplewrap packaged from Costco. Gardens take resources, know-how and time. Because we live in a desert, Utahns have to be fastidious with monitoring the ever-fluctuating climate conditions. If you like to travel or are not too thrilled about getting your hands dirty, any type of garden might be more than you can take on. Fortunately for us, there are many local urban farmers who are currently growing in yard spaces willing to embrace that commitment. Going into its second season, Stagl Organics is one of the newest CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture) on the SLC backyard block. Leasing four urban backyards in surrounding neighborhoods, urban farmers Shad Stagl and Jahnava Hill are incorporating sustainable and organic methods to supply its members with 26 weeks of fresh, local produce.
What are some of the challenges you face when growing food in an urban backyard? Hill: “Farming is a lot of hard work; time management is a big challenge with four different garden spaces—there are always more things on the to-do list than are possible to do! We invest a lot of our time researching other urban market gardeners to maximize our yields as well as to conserve time, resources and energy. We have also invested in some small-farm technology. As an example, this season we invested in a greens harvester, and it has already proved to be an invaluable, time-saving tool. It has a dangerously sharp, scalloped blade, which is operated by a power drill and is manually led through the garden bed and greens are collected into a harvesting basket. We used this small farm tool last week with great results, and were able to collect 20 pounds of spinach in minutes, which would have easily taken an hour if picked by hand.” Why it this work so important to you? “Eating good, high-quality and organic food is very important to us, and growing it ourselves is how we wish to live. Through our CSA efforts, we hope to share that accessibility of fresh produce with our community, and our CSA family, garden tours and volunteer days all help keep us going.” Stagl Organics www.staglorganics.com
16 Devour Utah • July 2017
COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS
COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS
COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS
Stagl Organics
4670 S. 2300 E. HOLLADAY MONDAY-FRIDAY 6AM-8PM SATURDAY 6AM-9PM SUNDAY 7AM-6PM
www.3cups.coffee 385-237-3091
Devour Utah • July 2017 17
Messy backyard apricot tree? GULB can help! From the Great Depression blossomed a generation of selfsustaining Utah citizens who valued thrift as well as the incredible flavor that comes from fruit picked during the peak of ripeness. All summer and into the fall, a vast variety of fruit trees—peach, apple, pear, apricot, cherry, plum, as well as succulent grapes cascading from their vines—can be found in many SLC backyards. It just so happens that the foothills of the Wasatch Front have the ideal soil and drainage conditions for many types of cold-resistant fruit crops, and they grow incredibly well here. Over time and with new development, many urban backyard fruit trees have disappeared. However, some remain and new ones are being planted and cherished with revered acclaim. “What we owe the future is not a new start, for we can only begin with what has happened. We owe the future the past, the long knowledge that is the potency of time to come.” —Wendell Berry
18 Devour Utah • July 2017
The question is, after you harvest a bushel or more of fruit, left bags on your neighbor’s front steps and brought a box or two to work, you’ve pretty much hit everyone’s fresh-fruit limit. What do you do with all those leftovers? Do you need assistance harvesting? Beyond heaping piles of overripe and rotting fruit into your compost bin, or getting out the pressure canner and preparing the Mason jars, another sustainable option is to register your fruit trees with local nonprofit The Green Urban Lunch Box. GULB is a fabulous way to make sure everything gets harvested in time and that you fully utilize your surplus. “This valley is full of thousands of unique trees that provide millions of pounds of fruit,” GULB’s Founder and Director Shawn Peterson says. “I would love to live in a city where all the food is appreciated and eaten by hungry people. I hate waste and no one should go hungry or not have fresh food when so much is being thrown away. We need to be better stewards of the resources we have.”
COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS
COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS
COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS COURTESY OF STAGL ORGANICS
The Green Urban Lunch Box
After all...... Every GREAT Hot Dog joint must have a GREAT BURGER!
THE
Enjoy Life... Eat at Johnniebeefs!
DYTKA BURGER 6913 S. 1300 E. COTTONWOOD HEIGHTS • JOHNNIEBEEFS.COM • 801.352.0372
In addition, GULB can assist you with tree care services all year long, including pruning, fertilizing, watering, thinning, disease and pest control. When picked, the fruit harvest is then divided into thirds, and equally distributed among volunteers and hunger relief organizations, with the final third portion coming right back to you. “Make sure you let us know when your tree is ready to harvest by going online to schedule a harvest,” Peterson adds. “The fruit is donated to free markets at senior centers, Meals on Wheels, SLC’s food bank and rescue mission.” ❖ The Green Urban Lunch Box 801-318-1745 thegreenurbanlunchbox.com Devour Utah • July 2017 19
The
pread S Cowboy Burger $
20 Devour Utah • July 2017
14 .50
garage on beck Live music and comfort food on Route 89
I
n 2008, Bob McCarthy reopened the iconic roadside bar The Garage on Beck after several years of renovations. He didn’t want to completely reinvent the space that was originally built in 1947 or disturb the great bones of the place that the previous owners, Jim and Maxine Bell, created in 1976 when they turned it into the Jimax Lounge. McCarthy understood that the history was as important as the structure. “It is on Route 89, a real interstate, not a neighborhood bar. It is not something pretending to be something it’s not,” McCarthy says. “The idea was just to recreate food and music. We focus on both local and national groups, noncover bands, jazz, blues, soul and rock—anything American. For the food, we scoured around Route 66 and found the best comfort food options. We basically matched what that place was in 1947, along with matching the oil refinery in the background. We designed it to be like it has been there in its natural environment and it’s true.” On the menu is just that: classic comfort foods. You’ll find fried chicken, chicken potpie, collard greens and burgers, as well as a nod to Utah cuisine—fried funeral potatoes. All food is made fresh, in-house daily with recipes crafted from chef Justin Shifflet, now also the head chef at McCarthy’s other restaurant, Stoneground Kitchen. “The original food concept was, since it’s a garage, to create a menu based on a map, and food items would be based on regions,” McCarthy says. “You would order fried chicken down South, the burgers would be near the Midwest, etc. Turns out, it is difficult to make a map and a functioning menu together, so we went with comfort food, road house food, but not bar food. We want people to have a meal.” The menu consists of house favorites, but they also change things up with specials. Taco Tuesday is no joke at The Garage. Get there early; they tend to sell out. ❖
Combo platter
Jalapeño poppers
Garage on Beck 1199 Beck St., SLC 801-521-3904 garageonbeck.com —By Aimee L. Cook Photos by Josh Scheuerman Devour Utah • July 2017 21
The
22 Devour Utah • July 2017
T
he cuisine at Provisions—“an American craft kitchen” —is nothing if not eclectic. Chef/ owner Tyler Stokes’ cooking is thrilling, and ranges from wood-roasted cauliflower and Berkshire pig’s head torchon, to whole fried branzino with chili jam and coconut cream. For his hamachi crudo, Stokes sources the freshest sushigrade hamachi (aka yellowtail belly) and serves it thinly sliced, sashimi-style, with cucumber rounds, Thai chilies, avocado, cilantro, fried rice cracker and a heavenly vinaigrette made with passion fruit juice, olive oil, rice vinegar, fresh ginger and Dijon mustard. ❖ —Ted Scheffler Photos by Niki Chan
Provisions
Hamachi Crudo
3364 S. 2300 East, SLC 801-410-4046 slcprovisions.com Devour Utah • July 2017 23
24 Devour Utah • July 2017
Devour Utah • July 2017 25
Randy Ramsley’s fresh cheeses, cinnamon rolls, eggs and more Story and photos by Darby Doyle
H
ang on folks, we’ll be right with you,” Randy Ramsley calls out from the back of his Mesa Farm Market kitchen to the visitors who just came in the swinging screen door at the front of the store. “Right now’s the tricky part.” The tricky part he’s referring to is flipping the heavy wheels of fresh-pressed goat cheese that had only minutes ago been curds pulled by the ladle-full from the pasteurizing tank and then hand-pressed into plastic forms by one of the farm’s interns, Meghan Chamberlain. “It makes me nervous every time,” she says of the cheese making and flipping process. “If it’s a humid day, [Ramsley] adds one more drop of this or that. It’s all done from experience, and it’s all in his head.” I’m
26 Devour Utah • July 2017
nervous for her, just watching. Her concerns reflect the tight springtime profit margins of the 50-acre Mesa Farm operation, located at milepost No. 102 on Highway 24 east of Capitol Reef National Park, affectionately known as “the little purple store on Highway 24.” When the nanny goats are still nursing kids in early spring, the farm only does one milking a day, resulting in just 12-15 gallons of fresh milk from the 35 goats. That translates into just over one large wheel of their famous Alpine style semi-hard Mesa tomme cheese per day, or about six gallons of creamy chèvre or yogurt. Ramsley makes fresh bread and massive cinnamon rolls daily in the outdoor brick oven, and depending on what’s ready to harvest, the farm also sells fresh vegetables, fruit from their tidy orchards, eggs from their happy flock of free-range
chickens and whatever canned or fermented foods they have time to produce. Small-scale farming is something Ramsley deeply feels that he was meant to do. Growing up in South Dakota, he loved nothing more than being with his grandmother in the garden and helping bake bread in the cast iron stove in her farmhouse kitchen. But when he attended high school in the 1960s, he says, “It wasn’t cool to be a farmer.” So he pursued other work while keeping envious tabs on the backto-the-land movement as it developed in the 1970s. Some years later, he fell in love with the Fremont River valley while canyoneering in nearby Capitol Reef but was told by a real estate agent that land never comes up for sale in the area. Serendipitously, two weeks later the agent called Ramsley back saying a parcel was available in the area he was looking. He bought it and has been farming this hardscrabble land going on two decades, building a sustainable farming environment—with animals fertilizing crops, which, in turn, feed people and animals.
In retrospect, Ramsley says that he, like many of us, got in his own way of positive change running the farm. “If we see only what we cause, not what our cause should be,” he says, we miss out on a lot in life. For example, he had been making fresh cheeses like mozzarella and chèvre, but learned to make his spectacular tomme from a French woman named Rosalie who was passing through the area on vacation and decided to stay and make cheese at Mesa Farm. Things happen for a reason, he says, just like cheese making happens differently in every batch. “I’m not very scientific about cheese,” he says with a grin and a twinkle of his bright blue eyes. “I prefer the magic.” As Ramsley shows me around the farmstead, we’re inevitably drawn to watching the goats—including dozens of nimble baby kids, adorable with their head butting, whirling jumps and generally stinking cute antics—scramble along a vibrant green swath along the Fremont River. “That’s rabbit brush they’re eating right now,” Ramsley says. “It has anti-parasitic qualities and the goats love to eat it this time
The free ranging cheese makers of Utah
Devour Utah • July 2017 27
of year.” That bright, grassy and slightly herbaceous mild flavor comes through in the goat milk and by extension, into Mesa Farm’s roster of cheeses as the seasons and vegetation change. Much like wine reflects the terroir, or environment of its origin, the flavors of farmstead cheese have their own origin tales, told through the goats’ pasture and grazing. Ramsley also makes fresh feta that cheese expert Matt Caputo claims is, “Seriously, the best feta I’ve ever tasted, anywhere. And I’m Italian and Greek.” Back at the Mesa Farm store, four more visitors walk in the door. One couple says they’re visiting from New Hampshire, saying, “We were drawn in by the ‘organic coffee’ sign,” and order two cups and a couple of salads, saying they were thrilled to see some healthy eating options on the road for a change. Two younger men come in, but see that Ramsley is grinding beans for the coffee, and walk right back out. Ramsley just grins and points to a Slow Food sticker bearing the motto, “Slow the fork down.” He says with a wry smile, 28 Devour Utah • July 2017
“If someone asks me how long will it be to get a cup of coffee, it’s probably too long for them.” He walks out to the greenhouse to hand-select the greens for the salads and pulls some loaves of bread from the outdoor oven. The New Hampshire couple “ooh” and “ahh” over their salads served with fresh feta and still-warm bread, and linger for almost an hour savoring their coffee on the screened-in porch. They buy some cinnamon rolls and a hearty chunk of tomme for the road, with smiles exchanged all around. Ramsley thanks them for coming in and for their patience on a busy day. “We’re a farm that just happens to serve food, not a restaurant that’s on a farm,” he says. Slow the fork down, indeed. ❖
Mesa Farm Market Mile Marker 102, Highway 24, Caineville 435-456-9146 mesafarmmarket.com
Bringing Salt Lake City its
LOCALLY MADE, LOCAL INGREDIENTS,
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VISIT OUR WEBSITE garwoodsgingerbeer.com TO FIND OUT WHERE YOU CAN BUY OUR PRODUCTS
thedodorestaurant.com • (801) 486-2473 • 1355 East 2100 South Devour Utah • July 2017 29
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Come 5 years with us! PASTRY • BREAKFAST LUNCH • SPIRITS 30 Devour Utah • July 2017
725 E. 12300 S. DRAPER 801-571-1500
2
Love Things We
BY TED SCHEFFLER
4
1 3
From Park City’s Good Karma restaurant comes Instant Karma Vindaloo Sauce. Glutenfree, vegan and super spicy, it’s the bomb! ($5.45)
1
Joule is a smart, Wi-Fiand Bluetooth-operated sous vide tool that fits in a drawer and requires no special pots or pans, just Android or iOS. Best purchase I’ve made all year. ($199, chefsteps.com)
2
Who says Asian cutlery must be expensive? Pick up this Kiwi brand meat cleaver from Thailand at Ocean Mart of Roy for $6.99.
3
Creminelli takes the work out of charcuterie with their new line of pre-sliced meats. Got prosciutto? ($4.99-$5.99)
4
Devour Utah • July 2017 31
BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER
SPIRITS • WINE • BEER
Fresh • Healing • Patio Dining Moab: 20 S. Main Monticello: 516 N. Main 435-259-0101 435-587-5063
www.PeaceTreeCafe.com
32 Devour Utah • July 2017
Scheff’s Table: Ingredients: 1 pound ground beef or your favorite slider blend. I like to grind my own beef using a ratio of 85 percent chuck and 15 percent sirloin. You can make turkey, lamb, chicken, veggie or any other type of sliders using this basic formula.
Caprese Sliders I Recipe and photos by Ted Scheffler
've always loved Italian caprese salads, with their basic components of ripe roma tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and fragrant, fresh basil leafs. Recently, it occurred to me that maybe the same caprese combo—plus beef— would make an interesting slider. So, I created a caprese-type beef slider. And, I have to say, it was much better than I'd expected. I don't list exact amounts here, since obviously you could make a couple sliders or a couple dozen, depending on your needs. However, using one pound of meat produces about 9-12 sliders, depending on their size.
1-2 tablespoons dried breadcrumbs Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese Fresh ripe tomatoes, preferably roma, sliced Fresh burrata or mozzarella cheese, sliced Fresh basil leafs—about a dozen Olive oil Slider buns Garlic aioli (optional)
Method: Place the ground meat in a large bowl. Add the breadcrumbs, salt, pepper and Parmesan cheese to the ground meat. Fold gently into the meat until well-blended. Form the meat mixture into 9-12 slider patties. You can do this by hand. My wife bought me a slider making kit from Sur La Table, which I use here. I can’t say I really recommend it, though, as the meat tends to stick to the implements. Sometimes just using your God-given hands is best! Brush the slider buns lightly with olive oil and toast briefly in a 400 degree Fahrenheit oven for 3-4 minutes. Using a pre-heated outdoor grill or skillet indoors, grill the sliders on both sides (in batches, if necessary), until cooked the way you like— rare will take just a minute or less on each side if the sliders are thin. Place the cooked slider patties on the toasted buns, followed by slices of mozzarella or burrata, tomato and basil. I like to dress my sliders with a little garlic aioli, but you can eat them as they are or add whatever additional dressings or condiments you’d like.
Devour Utah • July 2017 33
A N I L U C H A T U
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THE U
TA H H
hile not enthusiastic indulgers, Mormon immigrants brought a beer brewing tradition to Utah that once flourished and has been reborn. There are things in Utah’s food and drink history most would agree are best left in our past. There’s no campaign to revive the sugar beet industry, likely only a handful of people will seek out sego lily bulbs to eat and Jell-O filled with fruit and vegetables seems to be on its way to novelty status. But one tradition Beehive residents have been welcoming back with open arms and mouths is locally brewed beer. In a state known as much for sobriety as for
34 Devour Utah • July 2017
snow and sandstone cliffs, Utah is awash in good beer with around 22 craft breweries in locations all over the state. The latest to join the brewing party is A. Fisher Brewing Co., a name that was once well known to beer drinkers in Utah and the intermountain region. The original Fisher Brewing, founded by German immigrant Albert Fisher, became the largest in the state and, though shuttered for years during Prohibition, it produced beer until the late 1960s. Today, Albert Fisher descendant Tom Riemondy, along with some partners, have relaunched the brand at a brew pub in Salt Lake’s Granary District. And with the fresh relaunch of the historic Fisher beer, it seems a good opportunity to take a look back at some highlights of Utah’s beer brewing history.
BAR AT LAGOON RESORT
Beer among the Mormons?
GUS BECKER TRAP SHOOTING FROM HIS CAR. HE DID THIS DURING THE FIRST PIONEER DAY PARADE.
While members of the LDS Church today are required to abstain from alcohol to remain in good standing, the rules regarding alcohol—and beer in particular—have not always been quite as strict. Like many religions with Protestant or Puritan roots, the early Mormons objected more to drunkenness than drinking alcohol per se. Beer was also considered distinctly different from distilled spirits or liquor. Low-alcohol beer brewed on estates or in homes was not uncommon among America’s early settlers when water supplies were questionable. Beer, in small batches, was undoubtedly brewed by early pioneers, particularly those converts of German, Irish and English descent, but scarcity of ingredients during early settlement would have limited the amount. Utah brewers made mostly lager-style beers although all types from ales to porters were produced over the years. Some even ventured into producing ginger ale and other brewed and carbonated beverages not only to meet demand but to try and remain operating through Prohibition. Devour Utah • July 2017 35
ORRIN PORTER ROCKWELL
FIND OUT MORE ON THE “DESTROYING ANGEL” AT PORTER’S PLACE IN LEHI.
Zion’s first “brewpub” The first establishment brewing and selling beer in the Utah territory was owned in part by Orrin Porter Rockwell, the notoriously violent bodyguard to both Mormon Church founder Joseph Smith and Brigham Young. Known as the “Destroying Angel,” Rockwell claimed to have killed 150 men. In 1858, Rockwell and several partners opened the Hot Springs Brewery Hotel in Bluffdale. The brewery-hotel was located on the Jordan Narrows Road leading to the Salt Lake and Utah valleys, not far from the current Utah State Prison. It had a supply of water from springs in the area and a supply of non-Mormon stagecoach-traveling customers, 36 Devour Utah • July 2017
Pony Express riders and Army soldiers at the nearby Camp Floyd. An early newspaper ad for the brewery hotel states: “We will endeavor to furnish the superior Malt Liquors of the above establishment in quantities to suit purchasers. XXX, ALE, PORTER and our unrivaled BEER, furnished to customers either at the Brewery, or at our Beer Saloon in Camp Floyd.” The operation eventually went bankrupt and was sold at auction to a business partnership who continued operating it until sometime in the late 1860s. Ever the rugged frontiersman, Rockwell died in a Salt Lake City horse stable on June 9, 1878, reportedly “trying to sober up from a drunken episode.”
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DUDLER’S SUMMER HOLLOW AROUND 1864
Utah brewing relics Hikers and dog walkers visiting Parley’s Historic Nature Park at the mouth of Parley’s Canyon have, knowingly or unknowingly, passed a relic from Utah’s brewing past. Dug into the hillside of a northeast section of the park is the stone foundation of Utah’s second brew pub/hotel operation known as Dudler’s Summer Resort and Saloon. In 1864, Swiss immigrant Joseph Dudler, a carpenter and brewer, built a home and inn on the site, naming it Dudler’s Summer Hollow. He later changed the name to Dudler’s Summer Resort and Saloon. As business grew and with reliable water supplies from Parley’s Creek and a natural spring (now known as Mary Spring, named for Dudler’s daughter), which still runs in the area, Dudler decided to add a beer-brewing operation to 38 Devour Utah • July 2017
the inn. He excavated the foundation further into the hillside and added a cellar to store the beer, keeping it at a chilled and relatively constant temperature year-round. A gate now blocks the entrance to the cellar but visitors can still peer inside and imagine the rows of bottles and barrels awaiting thirsty travelers. For reasons that are not clear, Dudler named his brewing operation at the inn The Philadelphia Brewery. The brewery produced enough beer that in 1870 he opened The Philadelphia Brewery Saloon on 200 South in Salt Lake City and later a saloon on Park City’s Main Street near the current Wasatch Brew Pub. Dudler had less success with a brewery operation in Vernal he started in 1890, which was closed and sold to pay back taxes in 1893.
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SALT LAKE CITY BREWING CO., 1912
ALBERT FISHER
WAGENER BREWING CO. DECORATED TRUCKS 1913
Not really a jail Another surviving landmark from Utah’s brewing past sits on the brow of the hill on 500 South and 1000 East. The building is the last surviving section (the business office and bottling room) of the Salt Lake Brewing Co. launched in 1875. The building still bears the company name but was familiar to Salt Lake residents more recently as the Old Salt City Jail theme restaurant and is now part of the Anniversary Inn. The operation was launched by Matthew Cullen, an Irish immigrant who fought for the Union in the Civil War and had amassed a fortune mining silver in the Star District of Beaver County. Cullen partnered with Jacob Moritz, a GermanJewish immigrant and one of the founding members of the Salt Lake Chamber of Commerce, to launch the brewery business. Cullen served as president of the operation with Moritz as vice president, Treasurer and general manager. Cullen’s silver money financed the construction of a 40 Devour Utah • July 2017
massive, four-story brick building with turrets and parapets resembling a medieval castle that eventually occupied nearly two blocks. A story in The Salt Lake Tribune from January 1894 stated the brewery operation was, “without rival between Denver and San Francisco. It is the largest manufacturer of beer in the intermountain region, its capacity being 100,000 barrels and its product finds favor in every settlement in the Great Basin. Its product is as fine as science can make it, and the corporation will present to any investigator $5,000 in gold coin, who can detect in it anything but hops, malt and water, these ingredients being synonymous with heath and strength.” The first brew master for the Salt Lake Brewing Co. was a young Albert Fisher, who would eventually go on to establish his own legendary, and now reborn, A. Fisher Brewing Co. ❖
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Y
ou might have seen the bright, colorful coffee bags adorned with a dog logo around town and wondered what the story behind them is. After all, at first glance, you might not even realize it’s coffee. But rest assured, one sip of Hugo Coffee, roasted in Park City, and you’ll be seeking it out. After working as a Wall Street litigator for decades, Hugo Coffee Roasters’ tenacious owner, Claudia McMullin, made a life-changing decision. In 1999, she left the hustle of New York and moved to Park City, a rather gutsy move for a single woman from the
42 Devour Utah • July 2017
Big Apple with big ambitions. McMullin continued to practice law, although on a much smaller scale, and became the director of the nonprofit organization Friends of Animals, now Nuzzles and Co. She even became an elected official, having served eight years on the Summit County Council. And then fate stepped in again. “During my second term on the council, Silver Bean, the coffee kiosk in the Visitors Center building, elected to not renew their lease and wanted to sell their equipment,” McMullin says. “So, I thought, well, that sounds fun, I’ll buy a coffee shop. So I did.”
Hugo Coffee Roasters Making people happy one cup at a time. By Aimee L. Cook Photos Courtesy of Hugo Coffee Roasters
Devour Utah • July 2017 43
In just 18 months, McMullin has taken an unsuccessful coffee shop and turned it into a thriving small-batch, fresh-coffee roasting business with two locations along with retail and online distribution. Naming the company Hugo is a tribute to her rescue dog, as well as serving as name recognition for her after having been in the animal-rescue arena. The adorable logo is also fashioned after her dog and the colorful branding clearly represents McMullin’s big personality. “We created a brand that was specifically and intentionally designed to be high quality and sophisticated, while super approachable and friendly,” McMullin says. The colors and logo are meant to pop on shelves and our four signature blends are also nods to dogs.” Hugo Coffee blends are aptly named Bonafide (dark roast), New Trick (light roast), Downward Dog decaf and Howler espresso.
44 Devour Utah • July 2017
McMullin was fortunate to snag the talented coffee roaster from Silver Bean, John Lynn. He’s been roasting coffee for over a decade and is a master at creating profiles that are unique, rich and full of flavor. In addition, he has created a rotating coffee series with elements that he finds interesting, either from a co-op or coffee purchased from women-owned or -managed farms, or single-origin and micro lots that have unique flavor components. “Our house blends are nice, smooth, easy drinking coffees,” Lynn says. “We wanted to bring in coffees that we thought everyone would really like, but also had really great flavor. We wanted to have a dark roast available to people but that didn’t have a tobacco or burnt flavor. We have to give credit to the farmers. Everything that is in the coffee is there because of the farmer; how it was grown, the variety he choose and how it was planted. My job is to not ruin what the farmer has brought to me.”
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It’s important to Lynn and McMullin that beans are purchased from farms that pay a living wage, as well as offer education and health care benefits to employees. McMullin is very into public service and community consciousness. Her coffee shops operate using the “suspended coffee café” practice, which is similar to a “pay it forward” philosophy. Instead of a costumer buying a coffee for the person in line behind them, they can purchase a “suspended” coffee, which McMullin later provides for free to someone who might need a pick-me-up. “One of my favorite things about owning a coffee shop is that now I am in a business where I make people happy,” McMullin says. “I really like that, as a lawyer and county councilor, I was often making decisions that made people unhappy. Now, I am just in the business of making people happy.” ❖
Hugo Coffee Roasters 1794 Olympic Parkway, Park City 435-655-5015 2780 Rasmussen Road, Park City 435-200-5397 hugo.coffee
46 Devour Utah • July 2017
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Scheff’s Table: Ingredients: 1 fresh, ripe pineapple (about 3 pounds) ¼ cup light brown sugar ¼ cup crème de cassis (black-currant-flavored liqueur) 2 tablespoons cognac 2 tablespoons dark raisins or black currants
Method: First, dice the pineapple. The procedure is as follows:
Tipsy Pineapple Dessert
M
Recipe and photos by Ted Scheffler
any years ago, when I was living in New York City, I learned this very easy, but very tasty, dessert recipe from Jacques Pepin. It’s a simple salpicon of pineapple: diced pineapple macerated in a boozy marinade of cognac and crème de cassis. Don’t serve it to the kids! If you don’t have crème de cassis around, I’ve had success in the past substituting other fruity liqueurs such as Cointreau and triple sec. The recipe is very simple; the only real labor involved is cutting up the pineapple—don’t even think about using canned. I’ve provided step-bystep instructions here for dicing a fresh pineapple. It’s easy once you’ve done it. You don’t need special tools, like a pineapple corer—just a sharp knife and a cutting board.
48 Devour Utah • July 2017
Begin by removing the top of the pineapple and about ½ inch from the bottom. Stand the pineapple on end and cut it in half, lengthwise. Cut the two halves of the pineapple in half lengthwise again. You’ll now have four pineapple sections. Either by standing each pineapple quarter on end and cutting vertically, or laying it down and cutting horizontally, remove the tough part of the core with a sharp knife. Repeat with each pineapple quarter. After you’ve removed the core from the four quarters, cut those in half lengthwise. You’ll now have eight pineapple pieces with core removed. One at a time, lay each of the eight pineapple pieces down and cut horizontally about 1/3 inch above the skin. When finished, you’ll have eight pieces of pineapple meat, cored and skin removed. Discard the skins. Chop each of the eight pieces of pineapple into eight bite-size pieces. Place the pineapple pieces into a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, crème de cassis and cognac. Mix well to make sure the brown sugar dissolves into the marinade. Pour the marinade over the pineapple and toss to mix thoroughly. Refrigerate until ready to serve. When ready to serve, garnish the pineapple with the raisins or black currants. Serve very cold in small bowls or glasses with some of the boozy juices. You could also serve the salpicon of pineapple over ice cream. And remember: This dessert is not suitable for minors! ❖
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5 Somewhere It΄s
O’clock
Tiki-inspired Sipping | Words and photos By Darby Doyle
T
he mid-century archetypal over-the-top, rumheavy Tiki tipples—drinks like the Mai Tai and Zombie—became instant classics. Made popular by the original Trader Vic’s California-based chain of Polynesian-inspired restaurants, those two cocktails were widely credited to seminal saloon-keeper Donn Beach (born Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt) of “Don the Beachcomber” bars found from Hollywood to Hawaii. His first spot opened in LA in 1934 and is still serving up everything Tiki today. Cultural historians are quick to point out that the concept of “Tiki” drinks, restaurants and associated bar décor are a thoroughly American invention. University of the Pacific food studies professor Ken Albala notes that Tiki bars, home cocktail parties and entertainment (like Rodgers and Hammerstein’s 1949 musical South Pacific) really took off in the U.S. following WWII, with the return of thousands of service men and women who had served in the Pacific Theatre. In an interview with NPR discussing some of the more curious aspects of Tiki culture, Albala says, “It was a weird moment in history, when the whole country became fascinated with the South Pacific ... just because it was
50 Devour Utah • July 2017
unknown and exotic.” Tiki bars and restaurants became wildly popular even though he says they “made no pretense to being authentically Polynesian.” The menus often featured a mish-mash of Chinese-American food with lots of pineapple and maraschino cherries added to the mix. It becomes further problematic when keeping in mind that “Tiki” is a Maori word for stone or wood carvings, sometimes representing gods or other sacred icons. Digging further into the murky depths of Tiki paraphernalia, it also becomes apparent that Polynesian spiritual culture and story-telling dances were portrayed in U.S. Tiki culture as highly sexualized. Ponder that conundrum the next time you’re at a Disney luau. In the spirit of harmless fun and fluid re-invention, most Tiki cocktail revivalists make modern versions of mid-century classics using top-shelf aged rums and super fresh squeezed juices served in festive glassware. Also, Utah state laws still keep the alcohol content relatively low compared to the original off-the-charts amount of rum in recipes. This might not be such a bad thing: in July 1936, Howard Hughes killed a pedestrian while driving home drunk after a night imbibing at Don the Beachcomber. Our advice: Pace yourself with the rum and leave the driving to the professionals.
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C
areful with this one, bar owner Sara Lund says. “I had two a while back and felt more dead than alive the next day.” In true Tiki fashion, this frothy cocktail is served in a hurricane glass and sports four kinds of rum, three varieties of bitters, coconut syrup and a healthy pour of citrus juice to pull it all together. Even with Utah liquor restrictions, it packs a potent punch.
Dead Or Alive
The Maker: Adam Albro The Rest 311 S. Main, SLC 801-532-4452 bodega331.com
1 ounce aged Cruzan rum ½ ounce Wray & Nephew light rum ½ ounce Appleton VX signature rum 1 ounce coconut syrup 1 ounce lime juice ¾ ounce pineapple juice 4 dashes Honest John NOLA bitters 4 dashes Honest John lemongrasscardamom bitters 2 dashes Honest John Aromatic bitters Dry shake all ingredients (no ice) and pour over crushed ice in a hurricane glass. Top with a mound of crushed ice, float ¼ ounce Bacardi 151 black rum on top. Garnish with a mint sprig and pineapple wedge.
52 Devour Utah • July 2017
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From the Depths The Maker: Ross Richardson Copper Common 111 E. 300 South, SLC 801-355-0543 coppercommon.com
T
he only thing murky about this beverage is the name. Full disclosure: This is one of my top five favorite cocktails I’ve tried in years, and that’s saying something with all of the delicious bartending talent in our salty city. Bright, complex and whimsical, it hits all the notes that keep an imbiber sipping, thinking about just how these crazy disparate ingredients work together and make this cocktail even better than the sum of its delicious parts. “I’d been fussing around with squid ink for seven months, trying out different combinations to make it work,” Richardson says. A big fan of heavily thematic cocktails, he thought it’d be a perfect combination to meld classic Tiki flavors like black rum, allspice, orgeat (that almond flavor that makes for a key Mai Tai) and citrus juices while also making a completely unexpected presentation with a steampunk turbulent ocean vibe.
1 ounce Gosling’s Black Seal rum 1 ounce Lysholm Linie aquavit ¼ ounce St. Elizabeth Allspice dram ¾ ounce pineapple juice ½ ounce lime juice ½ ounce orgeat 2 droppers diluted cuttlefish ink* Shake all ingredients with ice, strain into a coupe. Garnish with an octopus cocktail marker. *Note: Cuttlefish ink is too thick to be incorporated easily into cocktails; Richardson mixes it with equal parts water to thin it enough to flow easily through a dropper dispenser. It savors all of the flavor—and a nice saline bit of serendipity to go with that citrus—while keeping the intense color punch.
54 Devour Utah • July 2017
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Tupelo Tiki The Maker: Tony Goodkid Tupelo 508 Main, Park City 435-615-7700 tupeloparkcity.com
A
lthough most Tiki cocktails have a big rum-forward base, Tupelo Bar Manager Tony Goodkid recommends playing around with other spirits with a similar sweet-bright profile alone or in combination with rum. In this case, his Tupelo Tiki uses crisp tequila as the base and it’s topped with an India Pale Ale beer to give body, volume and a little additional kick. Even better, this beverage is built right over ice directly into the glass, no bar stirring or shaking equipment necessary. Fewer glasses to wash, in other words. My perfect kind of summer break.
1 ½ ounces Luna Azul tequila ½ ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce simple syrup About a generous ¼ teaspoon Bittermens Elemakule Tiki bitters 1 ½ ounces Park City IPA. Pour all ingredients over ice in a rocks glass and give it a quick stir to mix ingredients. Garnish with a skewered orange slice, cherry and few quick drops of tiki bitters on the orange for added color and flavor.
56 Devour Utah • July 2017
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A
mid-century icon of all that’s overthe-top about tiki tipples, the Zombie is a classic cocktail made popular at the original Trader Vic’s in California. According to booze historian Wayne Curtis, owner Donn Beach blended up the primordial version of this powerful potion using five kinds of rum totaling at least eight ounces (with some accounts upping the content to twelve whopping ounces!), all mixed with fresh pineapple and lime juice to jump start the day of a badly hungover customer by serving not just the hair of the dog, but apparently the whole damned hide. Beach later claimed the customer said he felt like “the living dead” until revived by the drink, and thus, the name Zombie stuck. This West Coast sensation swept the nation after the Hurricane Bar at Flushing Meadows served Zombies during the 1964 New York World’s Fair ($1 each, limit one per customer. It was the fair’s Zombie recipe adapted from Trader best seller). Vic’s Bartender’s Guide (1947) Tiki cocktail revivalists ½ ounce lime juice like the folks at Lake Effect 1 ounce orange juice make modern versions of 1 ounce lemon juice the Zombie with top-shelf ½ ounce grenadine aged rums. Bartender 1 ounce light Puerto Rican rum Daniel Flavin recommends ¾ ounce dark Jamaica rum that if there’s one thing ½ ounce curaçao home bartenders can do Blend in an electric drink to up their flavor game, it’s mixer with 1 scoop shaved use only fresh-squeezed ice. Pour into 14-ounce block juice. “At Lake Effect, we optic chimney glass. Decorate juice every day and use with fresh mint and a stirrer. very pure ice. It makes a huge difference,” he says. Utah state laws keep the alcohol content low compared to the original recipes, but the flavor is still Tiki through and through.
58 Devour Utah • July 2017
Zombie The Maker: Daniel Flavin Lake Effect 155 W. 200 South, SLC 801-532-2068 lakeeffectslc.com
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
And Keeping it Fresh 60 Devour Utah • July 2017
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
T
he Utah Restaurant Association understands navigating the landscape of Utah’s restaurant industry can be tricky. And that’s why we are here. We support, protect, educate and serve as a guide to our community through the ebbs and flows of ever changing policies, trends, business climates and an every evolving work force. We are still fronting the conversation and taking every opportunity to educate our state representatives about the unintended and harmful consequences of a lower BAC. We are encouraging communication at every turn and representing the restaurant industry with fierce determination and presence. Our membership base is invaluable and we understand the delicate nature of a 4.6 billion dollar industry (with one of the smallest profit margins in any business sector). Thank you for your hard work. We are providing members with a network of colleagues. We aid in establishing relationships and educational opportunities between traditional as well as upstart vendors and service providers along with protecting our restaurant membership base from campaigns targeted to take advantage of them. The annual URA Golf Tournament July 18, 2017 at the Homestead Resort is a perfect example of industry coming together to be educated and support one another for a greater good, the strength of the restaurant community in Utah. Utah is the third fastest growing restaurant industry in the nation and has never been stronger. For the last twenty years we have been training the next generation of restaurant professionals through our Prostart program. ProStart is the premier industry based training offered to juniors and seniors in Utah high schools around the state that allows our passionate and career driven students to grow Utah’s restaurant industry by going directly into their chosen profession right out of high school. The cycle of the restaurant industry is important, every single contributor must do their job well in order for the entire community to succeed. And WE ARE! Through marketing initiatives like Taste Utah we are branding the state as a dining destination. We appreciate and know it takes the whole to be successful and stay fresh. We value all our vendors, farmers, customers, food enthusiasts and restaurant professionals for supporting restaurants and as always encourage you to get out and Taste Utah.
2017 Annual Golf Tournament & Summer Social
Tuesday July 18 , 2017 Crater Springs Golf Course 700 Homestead Dr, Midway, UT 84049
Registration 7:30am Shotgun Start 8:00 am Sponsor A Hole • Sponsor A Tee • Sponsor A Team • Sponsor Door Prizes Individual Entries Welcome • Industry Networking Hole In One Wins A Harley Davidson Presented by The Utah Restaurant Association in partnership with ACF Beehive State Chefs Chapter
Call: 801.274.7309 www.UtahRestaurant Association.org Contact The URA For More Information: info@UtahRestaurantAssociation.org
Devour Utah • July 2017 61
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Watch for season 3 of TeenChef Pro on FOX13 coming this fall, Saturday mornings at 9:00 AM.
T
he Utah Restaurant Association is committed to developing the talent of the next generation of restaurant professional through Utah’s ProStart program. TeenChef Pro is a dynamic resource the URA created as a tool to assist teachers in the classroom, an aide to educate currently enrolled and future high school students about the opportunities available to them through the ProStart program. TeenChef Pro is modeled after the curriculum taught through ProStart.
62 Devour Utah • July 2017
Each week a different ProStart technical or practical skill is introduced and TeenChef Pro competitors are guided by three of Utah’s premier chefs at how to practically implement these skills in real time. In other words, they are challenged on the knowledge they have learned throughout the ProStart program and are handed real life situations to test their understanding. The teens compete in teams of four with one teen eliminated every week through a duel. It’s a team competition
but ultimately comes down to the individual’s ability to operate under pressure and compose the perfect bite. The last teen standing receives a four year scholarship to Johnson & Wales University. Much like the ProStart program itself, TeenChef Pro gives ProStart students invaluable interaction with real life mentors and chefs to help them channel their passion for food and establish themselves on the path to a career in the restaurant industry. Watch for
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association season 3 of the series on FOX13 this fall, Saturday morning at 9:00 AM and participate in the You Be The Judge Contest. Each week during the the series, the dish prepared by each team of TeenChefs will be featured in the restaurant corresponding with the MentorChef. This allows you, the viewer to experience what you are watching on TV, decide for yourself and support Utah restaurants. TeenChef Pro is filmed in the summer and is holding an OPEN CASTING CALL for ALL ProStart students currently enrolled in ProStart including ALL GRADUATING SENIORS.
Auditions: Thursday, July 27, 2017 9:00 AM Salt Lake Community College, South Campus Sound Stages 1575 South State Street Salt Lake City, Utah 84115 ***Under 18 will need parents signature Please check www.teenchefpro.com for more information.
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Zoe´s
Garden F
arm to table efforts are growing strong from the root in Utah thanks in part to being championed by farmers, educators and chefs dedicated to keeping the local food experience alive. David Chen is one such champion. He understands there are few things in life more exhilarating than picking a fresh sun-kissed strawberry in the peak of ripened perfection, snapping peas directly from the vines, or walking through a row of endless baby greens. A working chef himself, Chen leases land just off of highway 89 to continue his efforts in farming, educating and building relationships with
Summer Market Grilled Vegetables & Flowers | pea green emulsion | olive oil powder |
HSL 400 East, SLC
Chef & Owner Briar Handly is notorious for his commitment to sourcing from the many different farmers and ranchers that contribute to Utah’s food community. He strives to do his part at both of his restaurants Handle and HSL to bring the best ingredients at the height of the season. HSL recently opened for lunch and brunch which allows them ample opportunities to show- off the talents of folks like David Chen. Diners are able to sample items from Frog Bench Farms, Ranui Gardens, California Olive Ranch, Blue Sky Perennials, Drakes Family Goat Farm and Sweet Valley Family Farm like purple snow peas, radish, turnips, violas, green garlic, mustard greens, petite mustard frills, olive oil, pea greens, wild onion blossoms, pea flowers, goats chèvre and the list goes on and on and on . . .
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restaurateurs. The result is Zoe’s Garden in Layton, a farm at the forefront of Utah’s strong and thriving farm to table efforts. He believes what goes around comes around in life and more acutely on the farm. Produce is grown in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture which contribute to the soil, improve the environment, and produce healthy and nutritious food. Chen uses cover crops, beneficial insects, succession planting, crop rotations, and organic soil amendments. All vegetables are grown from seed using an Organically Certified, compost based potting mix, and organic, non GMO seed
Pork Loin with Bread Pudding | heirloom carrots |
The Farm Canyon’s Entrance Park City Mountain Resort
Manny, chef of The Farm at the Park City Mountain Resort prides himself in supporting farmers and purchasing his produce from Zoe’s Garden along with many other farmers throughout the Salt Lake Valley. He feels there is a different flavor when something is pulled fresh from the earth and brought to him within hours of harvest. The carrots that accompanied his very popular loin dish this winter were supplied by Zoe’s Garden.
as much as is available. From the specialty items Chen is growing to the crop rotation and onsite beehives, there is a continual effort to give back to the soil what is taken from it. With the added insight of being a professional chef, Chen hand delivers to restaurateurs in order to assure freshness, answer questions and build the farm to table community. As for you and I, where can we sink our desiring palates into Zoe’s Garden delights? Here are a three Utah restaurants proudly featuring Zoe’s Garden produce as well as other farmers efforts, just like Chen’s. For more information about Zoe’s Garden visit: www.TasteUT.com
Charred Sunchoke | Jerusalem artichoke aka sunchoke |
Tona Sushi Historic 25th Street Ogden, Utah
Tony and Tina, chef & owners of Tona Sushi are huge advocates of Utah farmers because they provide products that are healthy and organic. Tony is motivated by sourcing produce from farmers such as David Chen that add so much to Tona Sushi’s creative menu and continually wow diners. Local sourcing is important in supporting each other in business and growing the resources within the community. Produce from Zoe’s Garden and other local farms are peppered throughout Tona’s menu in dishes including: the Charred Sunchoke (pictured), the Beet & Arugula Salad and their seasonal summer roll featuring summer veggies, cherry tomatoes, micro greens, radish and edible flowers.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
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Last Bite:
Fresh, Mindful Mastication By Joanne Miller
S
ummer’s extended daylight equates to more time and fun to be had, as we desperately milk the life out of every additional bright hour. We’re all busy managing life, hurriedly eating on the go, standing rather than sitting at the coffee shop, chugging cups of joe in one hand while checking emails with the other. We’re wolfing down bagels and breakfast burritos as we commute to and from work, silently gloating at our ability to multitask and get “it” done. Busy doesn’t always equate to productivity. Especially if we’re numb to what and how we’re eating, scarfing down grab-n-go options with disregard for our bodies’ need to absorb and digest fuel, as we hurry to meetings, activities, or triumphantly cross off another item from never-ending lists. Ten to 30 minutes later, the same desperately busy people soldier on—grimacing through the day with pain and distension caused by a lack of mindfulness to stop, sit, chew and sip for a while. I recently watched the film The Founder, which explores the rapid expansion of McDonald’s—once a family-owned, singular location, committed to providing a simple yet quality-controlled meal in the form of hamburgers, fries and drinks. The McDonald’s conglomerate we know today is thanks (or no thanks) to coincidentally named Ray Croc— a “visionary” who introduced the infamous golden arches into the most unlikely and often unwelcome places. In fact, my Mom’s newsy updates from Australia report on McDonald’s plight of being vilified and denied a welcome into downtown Margaret River—Western Australia’s premier tourist region, famous for outstanding wine, spectacular beaches, surf and old Karri forests,
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while doing its best to say “no” to major franchises. I digress, as this isn’t a diatribe on fast-food franchise global domination. My point, or further elation, stems from large corporate food entities kowtowing to what is essentially a lifestyle and mindset change among the majority of consumers. Sure, you can still order your crispyfried wings, deep dish pizza and cheesy/oil-laden burgers, but those same revered family restaurants now offer salads, sandwiches, fruit cups and yogurts, appeasing comfort eaters and health nuts striving to set a healthy example to their family—or abiding by doctors’ orders in an attempt to reduce blood pressure, cholesterol and sugar levels. We cannot survive, or thrive, on traditional fast food for long, given the artificial ingredients required to stabilize and extend food that has been prepared hours, days or weeks in advance. Our bodies flourish on fresh, whole foods and decline (and expand) with unnecessary starchy fillers and saturated fats. To this day, fast-food empires deliver a consistent, cheap product but at a cost to our health. Yes, your super-sized meal will be served with apportioned fries, three (not four) pickles, and close to a gallon of soda in 60 seconds, but the ingredients within the bun, burger, soda or shake are questionable at best. This issue of Devour Utah is focused on getting fresh. Are you? It could be as simple as varying your routine or choosing to physically sit down to chew, sip and savor without inviting distracting devices to the table. Hacking your preferred comfort/fast food is another option. Modify the ingredients, cooking and preparation methods with healthy alternatives and approaches. Your body will appreciate the summer reprieve. ❖
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