vol. 2 no. 3 • may 2016 • Grow
It’s time to Salads of Summer p. 10 Urban Chicken Farming p. 14 Garden Fresh Libations p. 51
Keep it Real Vegetables p. 26 Devour Utah • May 2016 1
2 Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 3
10 14 22 26 32 34 40 51 58
Salads of Summer Flavor packed freshness BY AMANDA ROCK
Coop de Ville
Keeping backyard chickens BY DARBY DOYLE
Frisch Compassionate Eatery BY AMANDA ROCK
Keeping it Real Urban farming with Tyler Montague BY AIMEE L. COOK
The Deconstruct HSL’s Seeded Cracker BY TED SCHEFFLER
Bill White Farms
Growing Community in Park City BY KATIE ELDRIDGE
Spicing Utah Up
Murray Market Gardens & Solstice Spices BY HEATHER L. KING
Garden Fresh Libations
Mixmaster Jim Santangelo’s Summer Cocktails BY CHELSEA NELSON
Champagne’s Artisan Winemakers
4 Devour Utah • May 2016
BY FRANCIS FECTEAU
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 5
DEVOUR CONTRIBUTORS STAFF
Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Editorial Staff Contributors
TED SCHEFFLER JERRE WROBLE, ANDREA HARVEY, LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, KATIE ELDRIDGE, FRANCIS FECTEAU, HEATHER L. KING, CHELSEA NELSON, AMANDA ROCK DEREK CARLISLE, NIKI CHAN, AUSTEN DIAMOND, KATIE ELDRIDGE, TY MANNION, DAVID MONNIAUX, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, YVONNE TSANG
Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCOLLECTIVE contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at aBourbonGal.com.
Production Art Director Assistant Production Manager Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE MASON RODRICKC SUMMER MONTGOMERY, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, CAIT LEE
Business/Office Accounting Manager Associate Business Manager Office Administrator Technical Director
CODY WINGET PAULA SALTAS CELESTE NELSON BRYAN MANNOS
Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.
Marketing Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator
JACKIE BRIGGS NICOLE ENRIGHT
Circulation Circulation Manager
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives Devour Store Assistant Manager
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER JEFF CHIPIAN, JEREMIAH SMITH MICHELLE PINOT ALISSA DIMICK
Katie Eldridge has called Park City home for more than 15 years. A reporter by trade, her day job (as owner of Panic Button Media) takes her to the “other side” of the industry where she is often promoting restaurants to local and national media outlets. When not rubbing shoulders with reporters, you may find her globetrotting or at concerts.
Cover Photo: Holiday Dalgleish & Tyler Montague by Josh Scheuerman Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2016. All rights reserved
6 Devour Utah • May 2016
Heather L. King writes about food, travel and culture in Utah and beyond. She is the founder of Utah Ladies Who Lunch and a proud Great Dane owner.
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 7
Community A Growing
ealthy, thriving communities are a lot like gardens and farms. They’re about nothing if not connectivity. In this issue of Devour Utah we’re taking various looks at living, breathing components of the natural communities that surround and envelop us. Darby Doyle’s entertaining and informative Coop de Ville article is a primer on the dos and don’ts of urban chicken farming. (Spoiler alert: I won’t be buying any chicks anytime soon.) Meanwhile, up in Park City, restaurateur Bill White (Grappa, Chimayo, Windy Ridge, Ghidotti’s, Wahso, Sushi Blue, Billy Blanco’s) has lovingly created his Bill White Farms in part as a gift back to the community that has been so good to him. Park City resident Katie Eldridge explores the farm, including its 30,000 tulips, which should be in bloom as you read this. Heather L. King documents the ways Murray Market Gardens and Solstice Spices are spicing up the community with heirloom produce, fresh herbs and spices from their own urban farm as well as those of farming neighbors and colleagues. With a different focus on urban farming, Aimee L. Cook has a chat with Tyler Montague, co-owner of Keep It Real Vegetables about his path to becoming a full-time urban farmer and the ins and outs of making a living off the land. Also in this issue devoted to growth, Amanda Rock points readers toward a handful of fresh summer salads and takes a look at Frisch vegan restaurant, where the component of compassion is just as important as the vibrant flavors on each plate. And for bubbly lovers, wine expert Francis Fecteau takes us on a tour of France’s Champagne region with a focus on the small-scale but highquality “grower” Champagnes made there by artisan producers. We are all connected in various ways, and here at Devour Utah, we hope that this issue with the theme “grow” connects with and inspires you. ❖
8 Devour Utah • May 2016
The thriving greenhouse at Bill White’s farm
—Ted Scheffler Editor
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 9
the salads of
Summer Forget the iceberg lettuce and go big on flavor BY AMANDA ROCK PHOTOS BY JOSH SCHEUERMAN
10 Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016
Stuffed Avocado Salad $ .00 13
Thai Shrimp Salad $ .00 5
he sun is out, and there’s an undeniable spring in your step. The warm, balmy weather musters cravings for cuisine that is both refreshing and gratifying. Lucky for you, we know just where you can gratify your hunger without feeling weighed down. Stuffed Avocado Salad $13 Avocados are nature’s bowls. At Zest Kitchen & Bar, they are halved and served neatly on a bed of romaine and pico de gallo, then filled with a crunchy mixture of seasoned walnuts. A drizzle of cashew sour cream and cilantro-lime vinaigrette adds an extra kick. This salad is full of flavor and “good” fats—a satisfying combination that is perfect for a light lunch or as a starter for dinner. Chef and owner Casey Staker suggests pairing this exquisite salad with a tart and spicy Jalapeño Margarita or Sangria made with beet juice for the ultimate summer meal. Zest Kitchen & Bar 275 S. 200 West, SLC 801-433-0589 ZestSLC.com
Thai Shrimp Salad $5 If you really want to taste summer, head to J. Wong’s Thai and Chinese Bistro. The Thai shrimp salad, with its minty and lime notes, is the flavorful embodiment of the season. Fresh mint and lemongrass mingle with sumptuous grilled shrimp—all dressed with a sweet chili-lime vinaigrette. It will tantalize the palate and whet your appetite for the delicious J. Wong’s dishes to follow. J. Wong’s Thai & Chinese Bistro 163 W. 200 South, SLC 801-350-0888 JWongUtah.com Devour Utah • May 2016 11
Larb Salad $12 The Larb Salad from Thai Garden Bistro is a tantalizing dish that encompasses the essential elements of Thai foodâ€”sour, sweet and savory. The distinct pungent flavors and different textures come together in a filling and invigorating salad, perfect for warmer weather. Choose from minced basil-spiked meat (pork, chicken or beef) served with a scoop of warm sticky rice and fresh Romaine leaves. Assembling each bite is a unique pleasure.
Larb Salad $ .00 12
Thai Garden Bistro 868 E. 900 South, SLC 801-355-8899 ThaiGardenSLC.com
Taco Salad $ .50 7
Taco Salad $7.50 Who knew a vegan salad could be so filling? Who knew that canned jackfruit could taste like barbacoa pork? The secret lies in the taco salad from Buds Sandwich Co., a tiny shop serving a variety of delicious and innovative plant-based sandwiches and salads. Meaty, juicy barbacoastyle jackfruit with black beans are served atop fresh spring greens and cabbage with a large tortilla hidden beneath (ideal for tearing off bits to eat with the salad). The sensational dish is finished with sweet red onion, tomato, guacamole and a drizzle of ginger sour cream along with a zesty cilantro-lime vinaigrette. Buds Sandwich Co. 509 E. 300 South, SLC BudsSLC.com
12 Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016
Mexican Food & cantina Since 1997
UR O N Y O AY D B I RT H NA
GUA BLUE I E ST YL
A Laid-Back Local Grill
650 W 100 S, HEBER, UT | 435-654-2133 SNAKECREEKGRILL.COM
165 S. West Temple • SLC
Below Benihana and across from the Salt Palace
255 Main St • Park City Treasure Mountain Inn (Top of Main)
Devour Utah • May 2016 13
Coop de Ville A beginners guide to keeping backyard chickens By Darby Doyle
he first time I ate a poached backyard chicken egg, I was blown away as much by the rich flavor— think the difference between February supermarket tomatoes versus the sweettart bomb of heirloom July cherry toms plucked straight off the vine—as by the vibrant orange color of the yolk. Like many beginning “chickeners,” my own voyage of discovery was motivated years ago by the two-fold desire of having the best-quality ingredients available as close to home as possible, and as an opportunity to have our city kids grow up with an intimate understanding of where their food comes from. Quite a few years and hundreds of dollars later, this story
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brings us to the present, where our second generation of hens is about to be processed for the freezer and our third mixed flock of pullets will grace the coop in a few weeks. It’s been an exercise in trial and error mixed with success and frustration. And ultimately, having chickens has been one of the most satisfying parts of our family’s urban-garden experiment, attempting to close a tidy loop of production and consumption, following the example of countless gardeners before me. Here’s hoping that some of the lessons my friends and I have learned the hard way will save chicken-curious readers some time and expense when planning for their own backyard flock.
There’s no such thing as “free eggs.”
Conditions for residential chickens Permits must be obtained from Salt Lake County Animal Services, $5 per animal to be renewed annually (maximum of $40 annually).
Apply for a permit Permits must be acquired through Salt Lake County Animal Services. Contact Pam Thompson at 385-468-6022.
A Chris Gleason custom coop
“My wife always says it’s a lot cheaper to buy eggs than raise chickens,” advises my friend and fowl mentor Chris Gleason. In addition to his childhood spent caring for his family’s gaggle of chickens for eggs and meat in upstate New York, Gleason’s experience includes urban chicken flocks with as few as a handful to as many as a couple dozen. He’s the owner of Salt Lake City-based Gleason Woodworking Studio, teaches urban chickening workshops, and published a comprehensive DIY hen-homing manual, Art of the Chicken Coop. His wife’s sentiment is one I smirk at internally every time someone tells me I must be lucky to have “free eggs” from my own gaggle of backyard peepers. While hens at the peak of Chris Gleason their life cycle—depending on the breed, from about 25 weeks old until almost 3 years of age— may lay one egg a day under optimal circumstances, there are great spans of time where they are basically freeloading; using up resources without producing eggs. Hens that are molting (biannually shedding feathers), broody (listlessly sitting on eggs but not laying any), have environmental or behavioral stress, or are getting less than 15 hours of natural or artificial light a day will lay eggs sporadically if at all. And stating the obvious here, you won’t get any eggs from roosters. Although chickens are phenomenal additions to the garden compost cycle—they’ll eat a huge variety of kitchen and garden scraps, and their nitrogen-rich poop makes glorious garden compost—they still require protein-rich feed, especially during the winter months. Other intangibles on the cost side include the expense of the chicks themselves (which varies by breed and source), heating the chick brooder and later the hen coop and water source in the winter, medications for sick hens, and the inevitable decorative elements you’ll be tempted to add to your coop, plus local permits and fees. And don’t even get me started on the cost of replacement plants for the areas that the chickens will decimate if left to range free in the yard and vegetable garden.
The number and type of birds allowable on your lot varies by zoning location, lot size and how your yard is configured, so do your homework before you spend a lot of time and money siting your prospective chicken palace. For example, in Salt Lake City, typical homeowners may have up to 15 backyard chickens and no roosters as long as minimum requirements of coop size and location in relation to your and your neighbor’s dwellings are met. Permits and yearly fees vary from county to county, as well. Local regulations also describe the minimum amount of coop floor space required for housing birds, feed storage requirements and flock security, but, beyond those parameters for the design of your coop, the sky’s the limit.
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Just because you can have a dozen or more hens doesn’t necessarily mean that you should. Even with careful planning, chickens can attract rodents and predators like raccoons, feral cats and dogs, skunks and hawks even on the densest city streets. These are issues that can spill over to your neighbors’ yards, gardens and pets. And although roosters are notorious for their morning crowing, hens can get pretty noisy, too, especially when they are triumphantly cackling to their coop-mates that they’ve just laid an egg. Chris Gleason recommends talking to your neighbors before introducing chickens to the ‘hood. Start a conversation about what may happen and how to best nip problems in the bud, “and it’s a good idea to go small at first, starting with three or four hens” until you see how things look, sound and, yes, smell in your own particular neighborhood microenvironment. We also set aside a part of our egg production to distribute among nearby friends, especially after a particularly noisy week, a neighborly gifting that Gleason agrees are “eggs well spent.”
Lesson Four: It takes a village.
Chris Gleason suggests visiting the coops of friends and neighbors to see how people “with real live chickens spend time within their environment,” and ask them what has and hasn’t worked for their flocks. Or, check out the dozens of home gardens open during Wasatch Community Garden’s Tour of Coops, held annually the third weekend in June and sponsored by urban chicken evangelist Angela Carlson and her husband Shaun Jacobsen of Urban Utah Homes & Estates Realty. Says Gleason of the popular tour: “It’s a chance to see a great diversity of solutions” that may align with your particular backyard coop siting issues—such as adequate sun in winter, good drainage and shade in summer—and showcases yards ranging from intensive Sugar House postage-stamp footprints with two or three hens to large West Valley City lots sustaining ducks, geese and turkeys in addition to chickens. Tour hosts have a wealth of knowledge about poultry breeds suited to our mountain climate, feed and watering solutions, and ideas on maintaining overall coop health. CUSTOM MADE
Be a good neighbor.
This year, the annual Tour of Coops outing is on Saturday, June 25. For registration and information, visit WasatchGardens.org
Fresh Farm eggs make for neighborly gifting
When designing a coop, keep in mind that a happy flock requires adequate space. Chris Gleason recommends the following minimum specs: 2 square feet of coop space per bird One nest box per four birds 8-10 inches of roost space/bars per bird
Custom-made Cedar duck hutch 16 Devour Utah • May 2016
SALTLAKECITYURBANCHICKENFARMERS STEVE GRIFFIN / THE SALT LAKE TRIBUNE
Angela Carlson of Salt Lake City Urban Chicken Farmers
Online resources offer multiple levels of education and support for new and established chickeners, alike, something that wasn’t as readily available even a decade ago. Social-media sites such as Pinterest and Instagram provide a bounty of images for inspiration in coop design, care for exotic chicken breeds and cleaning tips. Angela Carlson is one of the moderators of the Facebook page “SaltLakeCityUrbanChickenFarmers,” a group dedicated to supporting and educating established chicken enthusiasts and mentoring chicken-curious newbies as well. The group also serves as an online swap network for locating bird breeders, diagnosing flock ailments, discussing chicken behavior issues, and re-homing elderly hens and a seemingly constant stream of “unplanned” adolescent roosters. Books and online resources can help you find hens whose temperament and productivity will match your climate and space considerations, and figure out what type of coop and chicken run might work best for your flock.
Flowers, Gifts & Gallery You’ve just got to come in!
The chicken breed (not feed type) determines the color of shell and size of eggs.
1344 S. 2100 E. | 801.521.4773 everybloomingthing.com Devour Utah • May 2016 17
The sweetest hens are also the ones most likely to be low in the pecking order.
DAVID MONNIAUX PUTNEYPICS
Provide plenty of space in the chicken run, keep hens of similar sizes and ages together and create “hiding spaces” for recovering birds.
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Although chickens are generally gregarious critters that naturally stick together, they can also be very territorial and wary of new members, intruders or other shifts in coop dynamics. Sadly, in almost every flock, the sweetest hens are also the ones most likely to be low in the pecking order, which can be a tragic reminder that chickens can and do strictly determine group hierarchy through vicious pecking, feather pulling, clawing and attacking other birds in the hen boxes and at food and water sources. As my 12-year-old neighbor Greeley Johnson says, “That pecking order is the real deal. It’s awful, and so sad when they peck at each other.” This can be truly disturbing to see hens ganging up on a weaker member of the flock and literally try to kill it. Chris Gleason says that planning ahead for problems is key—provide plenty of space in the chicken run, keep hens of similar sizes and ages together, and create “hiding spaces” for recovering birds. Lots of room around feed and water sources (or multiple locations for food/water) can also reduce this behavior. “But it will happen at some point. ... so, pay attention to your birds every day,” advises Gleason, “and make sure they have enough space to work things out.”
Prepare for the worst.
Angela Carlson designed their family’s “Chicken Mansion” with her worst-case scenario in mind: “We built our environment thinking ‘What if a rabid dog broke in,’” and made the entire design based upon maximum safety from predators. But sometimes even the most thoughtful planning gets undermined. Local pastry chef Amber Billingsley adopted a flock of five hens rather abruptly from friends who were leaving town and needed to rehome their birds within days. Her family bought an unfinished children’s playhouse from the hardware store, refitted the windows with mesh to keep out predators, and created a secure run with a few hours of work. Months later, a dog they adopted killed four of the hens, leaving one injured but alive. Billingsley assured me that, “The dog later ended up being fine with chickens, and that one remaining hen was allowed to come in and out of the doggie door into our mud room. We’d find eggs everywhere.” It really depends on the training and temperament of your individual dogs whether they can coexist with chickens. Says my neighbor Crista Johnson of her labradoodle, Pepper, “She loves the chickens. They’re incredibly entertaining for all of us.” My own family’s duck-hunting Labradors? Not so much with the hen affection.
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Foods high in protein
Baked chicken with bourbon BBQ sauce 20 Devour Utah • May 2016
Whether you’re planning to tend your hens until they die of old age sunning themselves on your patio or decide to keep a combination of egg-layers and meat birds, it’s best to be realistic about your needs and expectations from the get-go. Integrating new chicks into established flocks can be stressful for all involved (remember that pecking order?). So be prepared to create separate environments and plan for an introduction strategy protecting younger birds. Planning for the stew pot? The Utah State University annual Urban and Small Farms Conference provides a bounty of information for new and established flock tenders about how to perform butchering within local regulations, as does the Utah Farm Bureau. Butchering classes are also available through community continuing-education programs and at some local family farms. Although egg-laying declines significantly after two years or so, hens in good health can live 8 to 10 years and there are endless stories of 20-year-old hens hobbling around the yard. And that’s something to crow about.
Integrating new chicks into established flocks can be stressful for all involved.
Enjoying retirement in style
A family of restaurants with
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!
Chabaar Beyond Thai
Tea Rose Diner
Siam Noodle Bar
87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100
65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111
5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT 801-262-1888
Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM Devour Utah • May 2016 21
pread S Technicolor Tempeh Kale Salad
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Frisch Compassionate Eatery: Good will and good food
risch Compassionate Eatery is a casual, friendly neighborhood restaurant. Serving comfort food alongside healthy salads, Frisch works to combat the standard stereotypes about vegan food. “We make amazing salads, but we also make ginormous burritos, nachos and mac ‘n‘ ‘cheese.’ Part of our mission is to show folks that vegan food isn’t just nuts and twigs,” says Rachel Kade, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Leigh. The affable and upbeat customer service, along with the brightly colored decor, is welcoming. The food is consistently fresh and delicious— ideal for a quick lunch or dinner. You certainly don’t need to be vegan to experience Frisch’s fabulous flavors for yourself. “A lot of our regular customers aren’t vegan,” explains Kade. “It is one of the most rewarding feelings in the world for me when someone tries vegan food for the first time and is surprised that it’s good!” Try the Technicolor Tempeh Kale salad, a craveable union of savory tempeh, crispy kale and vegetables with crunchy toasted almonds dressed in a creamy, tangy vinaigrette. On the other end of the spectrum, the “Spicy Mac-N-Cheez” is made with housemade vegan cheese sauce and savory, spicy soy chicken topped with halved cherry tomatoes, adding a nice tart bite to the dish. Looking for a dessert to end your meal? There are plenty of decadent options since Cakewalk Baking Co. shares the space with Frisch. You just can’t go wrong with Dillos: vegan versions of Hostess Twinkies in a variety of flavors. ❖
Brightly colored decor at Frisch
Leigh & Rachel Kade
Frisch Compassionate Eatery 145 E. 1300 South, Ste. 201, SLC 801-906-8277 FrischEats.com —By Amanda Rock Photos by Niki Chan Devour Utah • May 2016 23
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Take our 40% OFF reader Devour survey Store Go to DevourUtah.com and tell us a little bit about yourself. It only takes 2 minutes and you will be entered to win fabulous prizes. But, donâ€™t delay, the survey ends on 5/31/16. 24 Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016
See Greece like a local..... September 26-October 5, 2016
Make your Greek Vacation one to Remember...
with Devour Utah’s publisher John Saltas!
3 nights in Athens 4 nights in Naxos 2 nights in Santorini All 3-4 star rates hotels Don’t waste time and money planning on your own. We know the language and know what to see and what to skip Email: JBriggs@cityweekly.net to reserve your spot! Devour Utah • May 2016 25
Holiday Dalgleish & Tyler Montague 26 Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016
Urban farming with veggie pro Tyler Montague By Aimee L. Cook Photos by Josh Scheuerman
yler Montague did not grow up farming. While attending agricultural classes in college, he realized the importance of good food. Something about growing food and agriculture got his attention, so much so that, four years ago, he began his business, Keep It Real Vegetables. Tyler and his partner, Holiday Dalgleish, are now successful, full-time urban farmers who sell their organic produce to many of the high-end local restaurants in Salt Lake City. If you’ve dined at eateries like Pago, Provisions and Finca, chances are you’ve eaten Keep It Real produce. Devour: How did Keep It Real Vegetables get started? Tyler Montague: I began farming in 2009, growing garlic with my good friend Pete Rasmussen at Sandhill Farms in Eden, Utah. While working in Eden over the next several years, I established several smaller urban gardens here in Salt Lake. The gardens grew in number year by year. Finally, my operation was large enough that it required my full-time attention, so I focused my farming efforts here in the city. Holiday established her own urban farming business: Doc Holiday’s Organically Grown Veggies. In 2015 we joined forces, combining gardens, expertise and clients. Devour: Where is your urban farm located? TM: We have 10 different gardens around Salt Lake, spread between the University of Utah and Murray. Devour: What sorts of produce do you grow? TM: We grow a pretty wide variety of vegetables—from beets, carrots and garlic to salad greens and herbs, and of course, summer favorites like peppers and tomatoes.
Devour Utah • May 2016 27
"Exceptiohnal vegetables aren’t grown conventionally." — Tyler Montague
Devour: What is your growing process? Why is organic important to you? TM: Our growing process centers around tons of high-quality finished compost and other organic soil amendments. We are constantly working to improve the soil as much as possible. Amazing soil is the key to amazing vegetables. Since we are on such a small scale, we can do most work by hand. We can be very careful and detailed about what we do. We want to grow varieties that have the best flavor. We tend personally to every plant, making sure that we put out only the best. Contaminating our soil, plants and ourselves with toxic chemicals is unnecessary. Agricultural chemicals destroy soil biodiversity. We depend on biodiversity to create the nutrient density and superior flavor we want in our vegetables. Exceptional vegetables aren’t grown conventionally. We want to provide our clients and the community with alternatives to lowquality conventional produce that is the industry standard. We try to offer interesting vegetables at the peak of their freshness. Devour: Where are your products enjoyed and sold? TM: We sell our produce directly to the public at the Saturday Downtown Farmers Market in Pioneer Park and the Sunday Farmers Market at Wheeler Farm. Our produce is featured at many local restaurants and food purveyors. Devour: What are your expansion plans? TM: Finding the perfect scale for an urban farming operation is a challenge. In order to be viable, you need to grow a certain amount of vegetables. But you never want to grow so many that you begin to compromise quality. Our strategy is to grow a small amount of the very best, versus a large amount of the standard. Devour: What challenges do you face with urban farming? TM: The biggest challenge to us as urban farmers is land tenure. It is difficult to develop a long-term strategy for land you are only leasing temporarily. Our gardens exist based upon the good will of private landowners with space to offer us, which is beautiful. But an integrated strategy for permanent urban agriculture is something we should all be looking into.
28 Devour Utah • May 2016
SERV IN G
Eclectic Modern American Craft Kitchen New Summer Menu & Cocktail List 3364 s 2300 e, SLC slcprovisions.com Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 29
Tyler Montagueâ€™s Garlic Scape Pesto with
5-6 large carrots zest of 1/2 lemon 1/4 cup cashews 1/4 cup pine nuts 3 cups coarsely chopped garlic scapes 3 cups fresh basil leaves, packed 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 cups good olive oil 1 1/3 cups freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar 3 tablespoons butter
For pesto, combine in food processor:
1/4 cup cashews 1/4 cup pine nuts 3 cups coarsely chopped garlic scapes 3 cups fresh basil leaves, packed 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 cups good olive oil 1 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar Add oil slowly, pulsing until well combined.
The finished dish
Peel and spiralize 5-6 large carrots. Boil in salted water for 2-3 minutes, until firm al dente. Strain. Heat butter and some olive oil in a large pan. Warm a generous amount of pesto sauce, then add the carrot noodles. Stir on medium-high heat, adding pesto as necessary for another 2-3 minutes. Remove to a bowl and toss with the lemon zest. Plate and garnish with grated pecorino Romano. Photos by Josh Scheuerman
30 Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 31
The 32 Devour Utah • May 2016 32 Devour Utah • May 2016
ollowing on the success of Park City’s Handle restaurant, Briar Handly and Melissa Gray’s new Salt Lake City eatery—HSL—is currently the hottest ticket in town. But don’t look for a carbon copy of Handle at HSL; Chef Handly and his talented crew have designed a completely new and unique menu for HSL, and the gorgeous space is just as appealing as the outstanding cuisine. HSL’s seeded cracker with cream cheese mousse, grandma’s pepper jelly and herb salad is a nifty nosh that is similar to a canapé that you eat with your hands—a great way to start a meal. “The dish is homage to my Grammy Britton on my mom’s side—a riff on an hors d’oeuvre had as kids for every family get together during the holidays. She still to this day sends me jars and jars of her home made pepper jelly, so I wanted to highlight that at HSL in our own way. At 88 years old, she still works harder in the kitchen than most. She truly is a big inspiration to me as a chef,” Handly says. The gluten-free cracker utilizes ancient seeds such as buckwheat, amaranth, chia, sorghum, teff and millet, while the cream cheese mousse is whipped up with heavy cream, lemon zest, thyme, dehydrated garlic and onion and mascarpone cheese. Blue Sky Perennials, Frog Bench Farms and Badlands Ranch grow the micro greens and herbs for the dish, dressed with a simple lemon vinaigrette and Maldon salt. It’s one killer cracker! ❖ —Ted Scheffler Photos by Katie Eldridge
Homemade pepper jelly
Sensational Seeded Cracker
418 E. 200 South, SLC 801-539-9999 Devour Utah • May 2016 33 HSLRestaurant.com
34 Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016
An inside look at Bill White Farms Story and photos by Katie Eldridge
riving into Park City, just to your right off of Highway 224, a sign that says “Bill White Farms” is attached to the brown timber wood fence that surrounds the front of the property. You, like many others, have likely wondered: What is going on in there? We have all made assumptions about the answer. We think about Park City’s most successful restaurateur who has created eight thriving dining establishments over the past 20 years in a town that has crushed many chefs with big dreams. We think Bill White must be building this farm, in such a precarious spot, as a money-making venture—to create food for all of his restaurants, and then build more structures for some scheme he has conjured up for his own benefit. These preconceptions couldn’t be further from the truth. Guess what? There was no plan. Just a man, drawn to a historic, agricultural plot of land, who wants to make it do what it used to do 100 years ago: produce food, herbs, animals and become a place for everyone to enjoy and learn about how we produce food in this community. Hard to swallow? It’s the truth. I, too, was pleasantly surprised as I toured the two-plus acres that White has poured his heart, funds and time into for nearly the past three years. With the excitement of a little boy, and palpable passion, White guided me through the mud, gardens, ponds and restoration that inhabit his misunderstood farm.
Devour Utah • May 2016 35
"I never start any project with a clear vision of where it will
Devour: Why did you choose this piece of land to build a farm? You are a few feet from a highway. Bill White: You have to understand the history White of Park City (which many people don’t). This was an agricultural community before it was anything else. You had the Bitners, the Rasmussens, Fletcher Farms Dairy, the Osgothorps. ... you had all of these families with land, who used it for farming. I bought the land from Steve Hixson, who bought it from the Rasmussens. The house we have on the farm was salvaged from Mother Urban’s Brothels, which was at the current nursery location. The original barn and house is still here from the 1930s. As for the highway—it is a blessing and a curse—because the highway is also our advertisement. I wanted people to see what we’re doing—I wouldn’t have done this in a place without such visibility.
end up." —Bill
Devour: Did you have a clear vision of what you were trying to do when you first bought this property almost three years ago? BW: I never start any project with a clear vision of where it will end up. I don’t think: A plus B will get me to C. I bought it. ... and then I just saw what would happen. The county has been very supportive—I toured this land with them before I made the purchase. They understand that we are trying to improve Park City’s entry corridor and that what we are doing is about sustainability. So, we have an agricultural permit that allows us to build our barns and greenhouses. We operate as a nonprofit and have our 501(C)(3) status. Devour: Most people assume you built this farm to grow vegetables that will be used in your restaurants. What are you growing? And talk about the animals as well. BW: The concept is the opposite of what people assume. We bring all the compost from the restaurants to the farm. This small acreage couldn’t produce enough to do the reverse. For example, rosemary is an annual plant. But, through the passive greenhouses we built, we can grow it year round. The chefs can come by and use the herbs, but we aren’t trying to be the main supplier of anything for our restaurants. The concept is more about our community—having 36 Devour Utah • May 2016
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"I have learned to move more slowly." — Bill White
the garden club come by, or school children for tours, or hosting nonprofit dinners when we can. We have chickens, bees, goats (at times), flowers, tomatoes, a myriad of herbs and are just beginning hydroponic gardens and starting to experiment with aquaculture and raising fish organically.
Devour: What have you learned through this project? BW: I have learned to move more slowly. When you rush into a project as fast as I tend to do ... it can have negative repercussions. I’ve learned how to ease into it. You need the relationships and patience to do something like this. Devour: What’s the future of the farm? You mentioned you are now a 501(3) (C) so you can help nonprofits raise money through dinners you can host here. What else is part of the vision? BW: Again, community is the vision. When people drive into town, whether it’s the Christmas lights they identify with or the duck ponds or if their kid came here to learn about where eggs come from ... it will be different for everyone. We are here to make our community a better place. We will have more than thirty thousand tulips come up in the spring, many around the Millennium Trail—near a pond that we will keep filled and that will help the bees too. We want people to know that we are doing something for the benefit of others. In the end, this place is what you want it to be. It’s not a planned or predictable project—but it will evolve as we do.
BILL WHITE FARMS BY THE NUMBERS 150
Apple 38 Devour Utah • May 2016 Trees
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Tulips bloom this year
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210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi Devour Utah • May 2016 39
Spicing Up Utah “E
very onion, garlic, pepper and herb that fills our jars has been sliced, dried, crushed and blended by Chef Tony’s hands,” reads the Solstice Spices website. The company is the relatively new offshoot of Murray Market Gardens and both are founded on offering fresh and dried herbs carefully grown in Utah by Heather and Tony Peeters. Eight years ago, Murray Market Gardens started simply enough when Heather, a quiet, petite woman, put in her application to sell fresh herbs at the Murray Farmers Market during the summer. She and her family live in Murray and shopped at the weekend market but saw there was still a need for some other products. “I felt this strong desire to farm and learn what is going on with food,” recalls Heather, when they learned their young son had multiple food allergies. Because herbs fit in a small space
40 Devour Utah • May 2016
and grow fairly quickly, she and Tony—a professional chef by trade—started growing fresh herbs at their home and jumped on the opportunity to sell them to the community. “That first day, I show up and everyone is looking at me as I pull out these buckets of herbs and three tomatoes and two zucchini and my little tiny table,” she recalls. “They are pretty serious about their farming. I was super intimidated being right next door to Roberts Farm.” Today, Heather is a board member of the Utah Farm Bureau (the organization that puts on the Murray Farmers Market) and calls her fellow farmers market vendors friends, but the success of Murray Market Gardens didn’t come without hard work and a bit of stubbornness—which has now blossomed into two growing businesses based on heirloom products grown with love and dedication on urban plots around Salt Lake County.
Murray Market Gardens and Solstice Spices COURTESY OF THE KINSHIP CREATIVE
By Heather L. King
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 41
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
“We try to make sure that everything we bring to the market is pretty.” —Heather Peeters A Business Takes Root Although the Peeters launched Murray Market Gardens just ahead of the local artisanal food movement, their longstanding success can be attributed to recognizing a need and filling it with care and thoughtfulness. “We have the niche on the heirloom produce,” explains Tony. “None of the traditional guys want to deal with it, and ours is all beautiful.” The small tables that the Peeters sell from each Friday and Saturday at Murray Park are a feast for the eyes— different than the plastic crates and trailers full of produce that surround them. Baskets of carefully packaged fresh herbs in bags sit alongside heirloom
Japanese eggplant, a spice rack filled with Solstice Spices and, during the height of the season, heirloom tomatoes of every color. “We try to make sure that anything we bring to the market is pretty,” Heather says. Even their herb harvesting technique is based on beauty and freshness. “We cut herbs Thursday night and Friday morning, sell what we can, cut again on Saturday and sell what we can,” Heather continues. “Then anything left, we dry. Sometimes, we’ll dry stuff that is overgrown and, at the end of the season, we’ll dry everything that’s left.” This summer, they’ll be selling five kinds of heirloom tomatoes, cucumber, eggplant,
peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, peas and, of course, fresh herbs. In years past, the Peeters have spent their non-market time as private (Heather) and professional (Tony) chefs and tending to their urban plots around Salt Lake City. Their own backyard is filled with sweet Genovese basil while Heather’s sister’s backyard contains parsley, oregano, sage, thyme and rosemary. They also grow purple basil and Thai basil. But with the 2016 farm year, the Peeters hope to expand their operations to full-time status with the help of a new farming program offered through Salt Lake County.
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
42 Devour Utah • May 2016
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COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
The Peeters are grateful to have found their oasis in the city.
44 Devour Utah • May 2016
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
Farmlink The Peeters hold the distinction of becoming the first urban farmers to successfully take advantage of the Farmlink program offered through Salt Lake County, which matches up farmers with private land owners. The arrangement allows land owners to lease their fallow ground to farmers who then actively grow consumable produce on the property and, in exchange, the owners receive an agricultural tax credit. Tucked back off of 700 East, the Peeters are grateful to have found an oasis in the city where they will be able to combine their time and talent on this one large plot of land instead of as many as eight spots spread across the Salt Lake Valley. Their new farm space offers two artesian wells and water shares with great access to farmers markets. Fruit trees dot the property as well and watercress sprouts from the pond.
Growing Organically The new farm will allow the Peeters to bring more fresh produce to market all summer via Murray Market Gardens as well as grow significantly more herbs to feed the dried spice line of Solstice Spices. Looking back, Heather explains that Solstice was an outgrowth of the fresh herb business and it came about three years ago. “It’s a natural progression for people who grow stuff to want to make something with it. You see people make jam or salsa because they have a lot of raspberries or tomatoes and we happen to have a lot of herbs.” The Peeters began drying their leftover fresh herbs from the market simply for themselves at first and then for friends and family as Christmas presents— which lead to the name Solstice Spices—celebrating the winter solstice. Those who had received the dried herbs as gifts asked if they could buy them—and
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COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
Solstice Spices began to take root. Today, Solstice offers six products: paprika, Mountain Man, garlic herb, For the Birds, chile garlic, and chipotle— all made from regionally sourced ingredients. Many of the individual elements that go into the blends have a personal farming story behind them—something you won’t find anywhere else—and which gives the Peeters peace of mind in knowing exactly where their ingredients come from in the natural food supply chain. The paprika and chipotle are made primarily from red bell
peppers and red jalapenos handpicked from Petersen Family Farms in Riverton, which Tony smokes and dries before crushing. Similarly, they source their onions from their farmers market neighbors: Roberts Family Farms and Hatfield Farm. Blends such as Mountain Man and For the Birds combine many of those same peppers along with herbs grown by the Peeters themselves— oregano, basil, parsley, rosemary, tarragon and more. And the brand will continue to evolve based on what the Peeters can grow themselves. Heather explains, “We came to a point
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
COURTESY OF THE KINSHIP CREATIVE COURTESY OF THE KINSHIP CREATIVE
46 Devour Utah • May 2016
“We have the niche on heirloom produce.” —Tony Peeters
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48 Peeters on picking day Brady Devour Utah • May 2016
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
Heather at the market
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
COURTESY MURRAY MARKET GARDENS
“We’ve grown all the herbs since Day 1 and we want to keep it that way.” —Tony Peeters
where we said, ‘Do we try to source or buy some ingredients so that we can make more inventory or do we stick to our locally grown philosophy?’ ... we had to make that decision that we’re staying with local and whatever quantity we get is what we get.” With the addition of the Farmlink garden space and drive to produce more, the Peeters hope to add individual dried herbs to their line of products this year. “We’re trying to do straight herbs like a line of basil, sage, rosemary—all Utah-specific, Utah-grown, Solstice Spices-grown,” says Tony. “We’ve grown all the herbs since Day 1, and we want to keep it that way.” He sees a potential growth market in restaurants and chefs who make every effort to use local products. Currently, you can find the Solstice Spices products at Liberty Heights Fresh, The Store on Highland, Urban Farm & Feed, Petersen Family Farms, Utah Natural Meat and The Market in Park City, or stop by the Murray Market Gardens booth at the Murray Farmers Market this summer. ❖
Heather on pruninig day
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Garden Fresh Libations By Chelsea Nelson Photos By Derek Carlisle
“There cannot be good living where there is not good drinking.” -Benjamin Franklin
f there is one major mover and shaker when it comes to wine, spirits and cocktails in Salt Lake City, it is Jim Santangelo. A staple in the Utah food and beverage scene, Jim is typically found educating our community in the 50 Devour Utah • May 2016 complexities of nearly any
libation you can imagine. Currently, Santangelo is the beverage director for Main Course Management, which means he oversees the bar programs for some of Salt Lake’s most popular establishments—Current, Kyoto and Oasis Café, among them. Santangelo
also owns the Utah Wine Academy and was named City Weekly’s Best Booze Guy in 2013 Some of the most wonderful cocktail ingredients come straight from the garden, lending themselves to earthy, fresh, warm flavor profiles. Ingredients such as honey,
lavender, lemongrass and cucumber can elevate a simple, classic cocktail to a new level. In celebration of spring and the growing season, here are three of Santangelo’s cocktail creations, perfect to get you in the mood for patios and summer sipping.
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brittonsrestaurant.com Devour Utah • May 2016 51
The Cocktail: Oasis Margarita The Maker: Oasis Cafe
151 S. 500 East, SLC OasisCafeSLC.com
would argue that a well-done margarita can be the perfect cocktail for a balmy day, but a well-done margarita can be difficult to find. A bad margarita mixer can be quick to ruin the best intentions of any restaurant margarita. However, Jim Santangelo is doing the margarita proud—with housemade lemonade infused with fresh rosemary, fresh lime juice, simple syrup and tequila—there is no “mixer” in sight. Fresh citrus makes all the difference, but the inclusion of the earthy rosemary in this particular margarita really makes it sing. In the case of the Oasis Margarita, the term “farm to glass” is a reality. 52 Devour Utah • May 2016
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TheCucumber Cocktail: Cooler The Maker: Caffe Niche
779 E. 300 South, SLC CaffeNiche.com
hen you consider what ingredients invoke summer daydreams, cucumbers and lemons might come to the forefront of your mind. Cucumbers are one of my favorite cocktail ingredients, and the Cucumber Cooler from Caffe Niche is warm weather embodied in a Collins glass! When cucumbers are muddled, they produce an aroma that makes you think of gardening, green grass and fresh flavors. Mix them with London dry gin, and you have the perfect spirit to enhance a cucumber’s mild flavor. The fresh lemon juice adds a crisp balance, and you’ll find yourself ordering up more than one!
54 Devour Utah • May 2016
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The Cocktail: Kyoto Spritz The Maker:
Kyoto Japanese Restaurant
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56 Devour Utah • May January/February 2016 2016
here isn’t a cocktail more suited for spring sunshine than a Spritz. But a Japanese restaurant, such as Kyoto, might not be the first place you’d look to find one (the classic Spritz is Italian). However, the Kyoto Spritz was created, in part, by customer request as an aperitif to enjoy before a delicious sushi meal. It blends lemongrass, yuzu and kaffir lime juices and is then topped with sparkling wine. It is the perfect fusion of citrus and sparkle; not too sweet and about as fresh as you can get, this cocktail puts springtime sizzle right in your glass.
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 57
COURTESY FRANCK BONVILLE
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Olivier Bonville is the third generation to make wine here.
Champagne’s Artisan Growers By Francis Fecteau
avvy wine consumers, keen for every esoteric small production bit of viticultural exclusivity they can get their grubby hands on, always seem to lose that newly evangelized enthusiasm the minute they set foot in the Champagne aisle. It’s as if they’ve gone into some sort of grapey vapor-lock (every Volkswagen owner knows what this is) and they reach for the nearest orange label. Lost in the glossy cachet of the nearest Wine Spectator advert, they’ve been assimilated. Resistance is futile after all, and they forget that behind each Champagne bottle there is a thoughtful farmer dedicated to bringing the essence of his vineyard to life. I want you to think about this next time you stalk the Champagne aisle. Rant over. The complexities of Champagne are legion. There are more than 19,000 individual grape growers in what is among the smallest of appellations in France—5,000 of them with the ability to manufacture their own wine. That math is in the drinkers favor; it means 5,000 new “grower” Champagnes to explore. These growers own more than 88 percent of the total landmass of the appellation, which means that your favorite Champagne has to establish a network of these growers to ensure steady consistent supplies of the very best fruit. The big Champagne houses typically own very little in the way of their own vineyards. This patchwork of tiny Champagne vineyards is graded like other French wine regions according to their quality: There are Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Appellation Controllee ratings. Naturally, these premium ratings mean a premium price, though this is relative to whose name is on the label, and this is where it pays to look a little harder at your Champagne bottle. Look closely around the border of the Champagne bottle’s label: There is a tax ID number that indicates the producer category. The Recoltant Manipulant (RM) prefix refers to Grower/Producers—those who farm and make their own wine. Negociant Manipulant (NM) refers to those Champagne houses who own some land (Roederer, for example) and buy a significant portion of their fruit and also produce Champagne. Co-operative Manipulant (CM) refers to groups of smaller producers who blend their fruit together and produce wine for various labels. So, with big-name Champagne, Grower A with Grand Cru vineyards sells a portion of his fruit to Giant Negociant B, who will then blend it into Glossy Magazine Champagne and charge $300 a bottle (those shiny magazine ads won’t pay for themselves). Grower A will then bottle the remainder of his own Grand Cru fruit, label it thusly and sell the “grower” Champagne for $75-$100. Yes, you read that correctly. Stop paying for marketing costs. Support the little guy. Grower Champagnes are clustered around specific villages and carry their provenance right on the label. Grand Cru fruit isn’t blended away in a chorus of lesser voices as with the Big Boys. Grand Cru and Premier Cru designations appear on the Francis Fecteau came to Utah by way of upstate New labels, whereas they don’t with those larger house brands. They are reflections of a York some years ago and kept finding reasons to stay. specific place (terroir) and vintage much more than their larger brethren. By day he is the owner of Libation, a winer brokerage that specializes in championing underdog artisanal Since you make the effort to buy Julie Clifford’s Clifford Farm eggs from Provo; wineries. The remainder of any given day is then why not apply that same “little guy” thinking to the wine on your table? ❖ spent listening to NY Yankees broadcasts, riding his road bike and raging against the machine.
58 Devour Utah • May 2016
Devour Utah â€˘ May 2016 59
ABOVE IT ALL ON MAIN STREET IN HISTORIC PARK CITY
540 MAIN STREET HISTORIC OLD TOWN PARK CITY 60 Devour Utah • May 2016
Reservations encouraged (435) 649-3536 • Dinner served nightly starting at 5:00 PM
Photo: Keith Bryce