vol. 2 no. 9 • November 2016 • celebrate
Holiday Pies p. 44 Black Sheep Cafe p. 32
Mocktails p. 54
It’s time to
Friendsgiving
p. 16
Devour Utah • November 2016 1
Some people sing. Some people paint. I make eyeglasses. - John Cottam, Optician Making eyeglasses since 1964 Located in Historic Trolley Square Mon- Sat: 10:00am- 9:00pm, Sun 12:00pm- 5:00pm 2 Devour Utah • November 2016 www.thespectacle.com
Devour Utah • November 2016 3
Take-Home Treats Holiday sweet surprises BY AMANDA ROCK
Friendsgiving
Rebooting an American holiday BY DARBY DOYLE
Around Eatery
Lusciousness in Lehi BY HEATHER L. KING
Black Sheep Cafe
A marriage of Navaho & Mexican flavors BY AIMEE L. COOK
The Deconstruct Frida Bistro’s Chile en Nogada BY TED SCHEFFLER
Pie of My Eye
Can’t-miss holiday pies BY MAYA SILVER
Mocktails
Celebrating holidays without the alcohol BY HEATHER L. KING
Back Page
Thanksgiving Aussie-style BY JOANNE MILLER
4 Devour Utah • November 2016
CLIFTON FULLER
10 16 26 32 40 44 54 64
Contents
Devour Utah • November 2016 5
DEVOUR CONTRIBUTORS STAFF
Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
Photographers
TED SCHEFFLER SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, HEATHER L. KING, JOANNE MILLER, AMANDA ROCK, MAYA SILVER NIKI CHAN, CLIFTON FULLER, OLIVIA GOCHNOUR, CAROLINE HARGRAVES, TY MANNION, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, JOHN TAYLOR, STEVEN VARGO
Nomadic Aussie scribe and pragmatic hedonist, Joanne Miller (aka The Word Surgeon) confesses to a dependence on fine French bubbles, stinky blue cheese and furry faces (think animals and less-hirsute males). This amateur shutterbug/ wannabe ballerina finds wonderment exploring her ever-changing surroundings.
Production Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE SUMMER MONTGOMERY, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, CAIT LEE
Business/Office Accounting Manager Associate Business Manager Office Administrator Technical Director Business Dept. Administrator
CODY WINGET PAULA SALTAS CELESTE NELSON BRYAN MANNOS ALISSA DIMICK
Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.
Marketing Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator
JACKIE BRIGGS NICOLE ENRIGHT
Circulation Circulation Manager
LARRY CARTER
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives Account Manager
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER JEREMIAH SMITH, SIERRA SESSIONS, LISA DORELLI, TYESON ROGERS IVY WATROUS
Maya Silver likes to write almost as much as she likes to eat. When she’s not doing either of those things, she’s biking, baking or working on environmental issues as a master’s candidate at the University of Utah.
Cover Photo: Pumkin Soup by Anastasiia Vorontsova Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2016. All rights reserved
6 Devour Utah • November 2016
Amanda Rock is a freelance food writer with a passion for local vegetarian fare. She blogs at Amanda-Eats-SLC.Blogspot.com
Devour Utah • November 2016 7
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espite the headline-grabbing horrors of our world, there is still a lot that is worth celebrating; friends, lovers and family, among them. So in this issue of Devour Utah, we’re turning a blind eye to the nastiness that often surrounds us and choosing to celebrate good food, drink and those we eat and imbibe with. To that end, Darby Doyle takes us on a Thanksgiving journey that begins with Pilgrims and Native Americans breaking bread together, and ends with the more modern holiday celebrations of “Friendsgiving” and “Drinksgiving.” It’s good stuff. Sweets are an essential component of many celebrations, and Amanda Rock aims her sweet tooth this month toward finding celebratory treats prepared for takeout, so that you don’t have to spend valuable time in the kitchen. If it’s pies you need to supplement your celebration, Maya Silver offers a quintet of perfect pies ranging from Midvale’s Left Fork Grill to June Pie in Heber. In Mexico, the colorful and delectable dish called chiles en nogada is a holiday staple. Here in Utah, Jorge Fierro’s Frida Bistro offers the dish year-round, and it’s the focus of this month’s “The Deconstruct” column. And, since Native American history and culture is a cornerstone of traditional and contemporary Thanksgiving celebrations, Aimee L. Cook profiles chef Mark Mason and his Black Sheep Cafe, where Navajo cooking and life ways are a strong influence. If you’re looking to celebrate in a non-boozy manner this year—or maybe you just have some guests who don’t partake—Heather L. King has found a selection of delicious “mocktails” for holiday (or any time) imbibing. And with the last word, our intrepid Australian, Joanne Miller, shares thoughts about celebrating Thanksgiving Aussie-style. However and wherever you celebrate, we hope you do it in fine health and good spirits. ❖ —Ted Scheffler Editor
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Sweet Surprises A Celebration of
Take-home treats for holiday shindigs BY AMANDA ROCK PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
10 Devour Utah • November 2016
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e at Devour Utah want you to take time for yourself this holiday season. Let your favorite bakeries do what they do best: make scrumptious desserts that you can share with your family and friends. Your people will feel just as loved as if you’d slaved away in the kitchen, and you’ll have a little extra time for yourself and loved ones. Show off your good judgment and excellent taste with these toothsome treats.
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Raspberry Cream Cheese Pie
Raspberry cream cheese pie $13.99 12 Devour Utah • November 2016
Maybe it’s unconventional to bring a raspberry pie to a holiday get-together, but that’s part of the fun. Kneaders’ raspberry cream cheese pie with its tempting tart and sweet flavors will be a happy surprise for your guests’ taste buds. Touted as an employee favorite that crossed over from the summer menu to become available yearround, this pie is a refreshing dessert that’s hard to resist during holiday celebrations—or any other time. Kneaders Bakery & Cafe Various locations Kneaders.com
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Pumpkin Spice & Apple Cake Along with fancy desserts and rolls, you can pick up other meal essentials and even find the perfect floral arrangement at your local Harmons grocery store—these Utah markets are the ultimate holiday time savers. For dessert, the pumpkin spice and apple cake from Harmons bakery is an elegant addition to everything from a formal family holiday meal to a cozy get-together with good friends. Fluffy white cake with apple filling is topped with pumpkin spice cream cheese frosting and brûléed for that extra sophisticated touch. Harmons Various locations HarmonsGrocery.com
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Miniature cinnamon rolls are sure to bring a smile to everyone’s face. They’re the perfect size for a sweet bite, a three-inch celebration of cinnamon and sugar. Heat the tin of eight Mini Cinnis in the oven for a few minutes before serving— they smell just as good as they taste. Whether you serve them for breakfast or as an afternoon snack alongside hot chocolate or apple cider, they’re delightful. Call your local Great Harvest Bread Co. to place an order, these treats are among the first to sell out during the holidays. Great Harvest Bread Co. Various locations GreatHarverstUtah.com
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friends
giving Reinventing Tradition, One Dish at a Time By Darby Doyle Photos by Ty Mannion
N
o matter how we actually would prefer to celebrate the iconic late-November feast, Americans have been conditioned for centuries to know what to expect for Thanksgiving— at least on the table. Turkey: check. Mashed potatoes: check. Pumpkin pie: double check with whipped cream on top. A side of family dysfunction: check minus. Details and side dishes vary by family tradition and region, to be sure. But how did all of these basic menu icons become codified? And, more curiously for modern diners, what do we do when our own dietary restrictions, familial geography or social preferences don’t fit in that longprescribed box of expectations?
16 Devour Utah • November 2016
A “Proper” Thanksgiving With a few multi-cultural and regional exceptions, the Thanksgiving script as popularized by Sarah Josepha Hale— editor of the nationally popular Godey’s Lady’s Book and the 19th century arbiter of domestic style—hasn’t changed much in scope, theme or menu since the time of George Washington. Although citizens of most New England states celebrated a prayer-oriented “Day of Thanksgiving” meal based upon the apocryphal Plymouth Plantation feast of 1621, by the Civil War even the most “primitive” western territories recognized some kind of community-sanctioned day of thanks in the late fall. Starting in 1827 with a letter to John Quincy Adams, Hale petitioned every U.S. president to recognize “Thanksgiving” as a national holiday. Finally, Abraham Lincoln acknowledged her appeals and declared a National Day of Thanksgiving to be held annually on the fourth Thursday in November starting in 1863. Through the Lady’s Book, dozens of cookbooks and other instructional publications, Hale and her followers had developed an ideal of what foods should be served at Thanksgiving. Most American housewives followed Hale’s lead on the menu, along with how it should be served and by whom, with a level of well-nigh-impossible Pinterest-like domestic perfectionism. However, Civil War-era colonial nostalgia relied on a culinary and social history that had gone through 200 years of cultural mutation. History 101, here: In 1620, religious refugees from Europe, known as Pilgrims, sailed in a ship called the Mayflower and landed in Massachusetts Colony (no rocks—named or otherwise— were actually noted in primary sources) in December and started building what would become Plymouth (alternately spelled “Plimouth”) Plantation. They survived through the winter by using stores they brought with them, hunting and through trade with their indigenous Wampanoag neighbors, who also taught them how best to grow corn and other locally suited crops. To celebrate a successful first harvest the following fall, Edward Winslow of the colony wrote (edited for modern spelling): “Our harvest being gotten in, our governor sent four men on fowling, that so we might after a special manner rejoice together, after we had gathered the fruits of our labors;
Devour Utah • November 2016 17
Kathleen Wall
they four in one day killed as much fowl, as with a little help beside, served the Company almost a week, at which time amongst other Recreations, we exercised our Arms, many of the Indians coming amongst us, and amongst the rest their greatest king Massasoit, with some ninety men, whom for three days we entertained and feasted, and they went out and killed five Deer, which they brought to the Plantation and bestowed on our Governor, and upon the Captain and others. And although it be not always so plentiful, as it was at this time with us, yet by the goodness of God, we are so far from want, that we often wish you partakers of our plenty. “ Notes Plimouth Plantation livinghistory museum culinary expert Kathleen Wall in an interview for Smithsonian, while wild turkey was indeed present at the 1621 harvest feast, it wasn’t the star of the meal. Venison, wild duck, goose and a large array of fresh and smoked fish, eels and shellfish (like lobster, clams and mussels) most likely played a bigger role in the feast. The Wampanoag “grew flint corn (multicolored Indian corn), and that was their staple,” Wall says. “They grew beans, which they used from when they were small and green until when they were mature.” Gathered chestnuts, walnuts and beechnuts were 18 Devour Utah • November 2016
historically prepared in many forms. The Pilgrims cultivated sturdy English staples of turnips, onions and garlic. Not present? Pumpkin pie. Although squash of various sorts was heavily featured, sweet or savory pie crusts made with wheat flour and butter wouldn’t have been possible—these foodstuffs weren’t produced yet at Plimouth. Potatoes in any variety hadn’t made it that far north yet, either, and were still isolated to South America for the white kind and the Caribbean for the sweet set. Likewise, Wall notes that cranberries wouldn’t be incorporated into the New England diet for another 50 years. Brian Collier
Refugees & Indigenous People Aside from the food mythology that has surrounded the harvest celebration of 1621, there’s a teetering pile of cultural baggage that comes with a respectful responsibility to unpack carefully. I recently talked with my graduate school colleague Brian Collier, who is now director of Native American initiatives at Notre Dame, about the subject of the “first” Thanksgiving, and he encouraged me to think about how the modern dynamic of the “Pilgrim and Indian story” plays out in the contemporary holiday. “It’s not a happy reminder for all,” Collier says. “While lots of Native Americans celebrate Thanksgiving today, there are also those who remember this holiday and Columbus Day as the beginning of a major shift in their world, a shift that brought devastating changes to their way of life and dispossessed them of material, cultural and geographic ways of knowing and being.” Collier reiterates that, “This isn’t by way of trying to make the dominant culture feel bad about Thanksgiving, but rather an important perspective to recognize that Native people welcomed the refugees of Europe and elsewhere” and as their settlements and colonies quickly spread, indigenous people were largely mistreated by those colonizers and their descendants.
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Awkward … Perhaps this 17th century three-day feast also anticipated the dysfunction, forced formality and gawky interaction that so many modern Americans complain of when they say they prefer “Friendsgiving” get-togethers to more traditional Thanksgiving feasts, especially with extended family that many folks don’t see more than once a year. Collier relates, “I also have to think that the first Thanksgiving was as awkward as the ones I enjoy with my own family today.” And while most accounts describe the Wampanoag as a happy and generous people, they were “likely wondering about the intentions of these colonists,” Collier says. Lack of a common language probably contributed to cultural misunderstandings, too, says Collier with some levity. “I can only imagine that the first Euro-Americans on this land were as loud as my Uncle Rocco is when talking to his elderly aunts.” Westminster College Professor of History Jeff Nichols agrees that it’s likely that this “first” Thanksgiving was imbued with equal parts gratitude and relief on the part of colonists that they’d made it through the year alive with the aid of their Wampanoag neighbors: “Relations were still relatively good, at least between and among that bunch, and I’d like to think that there was some genuine communion” along with probable cultural eyebrow-raising over differences. Nichols also wonders what the Wampanoag thought of the presumed solemnity of the Puritan settlers since “there was probably prayer,” he says. “Lots and lots of prayer.”
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Tofurkey
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Friendsgiving & Drinksgiving And as every host knows, nothing can tank the vibe of a friendly feast faster than a general religious or lifestyle discussion taking a 90-degree turn into personal disagreement, especially within the context of existing grudges and family history. As Linus from Peanuts said, “There are three things I have learned never to discuss with people: religion, politics and the Great Pumpkin.” Something many of my friends reiterate is best done with likeminded folks over copious amounts of wine, rather than under the stress of family expectations for “proper” behavior. And whether talking with my lapsed Southern Baptist friends in the Southeast or former Mormons in Utah, the issue of libations (or lack thereof) often comes up. Utah transplant Gale Davis says, “Friendsgiving is the only time a lot of our FoMo friends can drink with the turkey dinner.” And their crew has even invented boozy traditions like the Turkey Baster Chaser, “essentially a pickle back but with turkey brine. One is delicious, but enough.” Now splitting time between New York and Florida, my Louisville hometown compatriot Amy Bower Burchenal and her husband, Drew, have come up with their own holiday tradition to ward off questions like, “When are y’all having 22 Devour Utah • November 2016
Sweet potatoes kids?” Instead, Burchenal says, “we have hosted ‘Drinksgiving’ a couple of times with our child-free couple friends. We had so much fun, we had the cops called on us for playing Wings too loud.”
Dietary Dilemmas But even for people celebrating with large, relatively congenial extended family, the actual day may be difficult to stomach (literally) for myriad dietary reasons. Navigating the complexities of food allergies can be difficult in many public situations, let alone the pressure
Amanda Rock
of offending dear relatives who may mean well, but are crestfallen when their beloved traditional offerings are rebuffed. We can pretty much count on my 12-year-old son, who is allergic to eggs, to have a reaction to something at a family feast, and we’ve learned to preemptively load him up from the veggie tray and our own contributions. For Utah native and Devour contributor Amanda Rock, her transition to vegetarianism and later veganism became a minor stumbling block to family food unity, but, she says, “growing up Italian it was pretty easy to make things everybody already recognizes; you just change out the cheese part and it’s still delicious.” She also notes that vegetarian food has come a long way since the days of Tofurkey. “And I could make a meal out of side dishes,” she says. “Nobody knows if you don’t tell them there’s fake butter in the béchamel sauce for the green bean casserole.” Rock applauds the bounty of local restaurateurs who support great vegan and vegetarian food options to go. “Vertical Diner makes this great vegan ‘care package.’ It’s a whole meal that’s super easy to take to family events, and it’s delicious.” She’s particularly a fan of bringing vegan City Cakes and Cake Walk pies and cakes, saying, “I always wear black, so flour is a lot to deal with. I like other people to do the baking.”
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Taking in Strays SLC’s large population of people in medical professions, education and the winter-sports industry make for a substantial group of ‘outsiders’ without family in Utah come snowy November. For people who move frequently for jobs and school all over the world, Friendsgivings have come to be some of their fondest memories. Primary Children’s Hospital pediatric nurse Dave Duzy and his wife, Karen, hosted several Friendsgivings during their first years in SLC. “We rarely made it back to LA for that holiday so we would invite others from the hospital who had no family in town to join us,” he says. “The girls still talk about the awkward red-headed physician who joined us one year...” Local pastry chef Amber Billingsly has organized legendary November feasts for Utah foodies, which she describes as “the most random, displaced group of people. It’s awesome.” She remembers fondly the year when about 50 friends from all over the world who had tangential ties to Oasis Cafe decided to have a group Thanksgiving, “and we sat down to the weirdest pot luck meal; it was curious to see what everyone brought,” she says. “For some people, it’s just not Thanksgiving without frozen corn, or smoked oysters on Ritz crackers. We 24 Devour Utah • November 2016
may not even like that stuff any other time, but that’s the Thanksgiving food memory you’re stuck with.”
Modern Family These ingrained food memories of what Thanksgiving is “supposed to be” seem to be particularly nostalgic for people when they are sharing a meal apart from their childhood family unit. Food educator and writer Vanessa Chang recalls of her own childhood Vanessa Chang
Thanksgivings with her Korean-born parents. “Our favorite Thanksgiving was spent at Disneyland, and then we went to El Pollo Loco for dinner,” she says. “We decided that if all three people don’t like turkey, why make a huge deal” around making it. As an adult, Chang says that Thanksgiving has “become more about what we want to eat” as a group of friends and/ or family. And Friendsgivings often nurture intimacy by storytelling through food. “The excitement of introducing ‘that dish’ or ‘this tradition’ is a powerful part of sharing,” Chang says. “It’s almost like getting a ‘re-do’ of every other shitty Thanksgiving they’ve ever had” by being able to pare the pressure and expectations of the entire holiday down to just one pot-luck item to contribute. “It’s a very controlled version of ‘Family Life’ with less expectations and less trepidation” than many people put on themselves when they take on hosting an elaborate feast on their own. As for my own nuclear unit of four living far away from extended family on both sides? We love hosting the big meal, but we’ll be happy to contribute a dish, a story and a hearty “cheers” to the sentiment of Friendsgiving no matter the location. For us, it’s all about the turkey sandwich leftovers, anyway. Which reminds me of a story… ❖
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You are what you eat. 26 Devour Utah • November 2016
Around Eatery A culinary conversation with Executive Chef Ryan Swarts
—By Heather L. King Photos by Olivia Gochnour
T
here’s a saying that goes, “You are what you eat.” And Around Eatery—a new chef-driven, fast-casual restaurant in Lehi spearheaded by chef Ryan Swarts—has taken this concept to heart. Chef Swarts got his cooking chops at the Culinary Institute of America and Fireside Dining at Deer Valley Resort before spending time abroad studying in Italy, Germany and France. During that period, he experienced everything from working on an olive plantation to herding goats in the mountains of northern Italy while learning how to make perfect goat cheese. “Having grown up on a farm on the East Coast, I was surrounded by a variety of different foods and cultures. That lifestyle has always stuck with me,” Swarts says. That
Summer Salad
Devour Utah • November 2016 27
Chef Ryan Swarts
Chickpea Soup
background was very much the inspiration for Around Eatery’s eclectic selection of soups, salads and sandwiches, all of which feature fine-dining-quality ingredients. “Utah is changing in the culinary world,” Swarts continues. “People are now expecting fresher ingredients and higher-end proteins that contain no growth hormones or antibiotics. People are becoming more aware of what they eat and drink and where it comes from, and we’re playing a part in spreading that awareness.”
The variety of dishes at Around Eatery—from cheddar chive biscuits and gravy to the tangy Cuban fusion sandwich highlighting citrus-marinated Duroc pork loin and Jarlsberg cheese served on steamed buns—brings the world (and every guest at the table) together on one menu. The restaurant also specializes in menu items designed for the health crowd and those on special gluten-free diets. When not working tirelessly to serve customers and open Around Eatery’s second location under construction in Olympus Hills, Swarts takes time to
Utah is changing...
28 Devour Utah • November 2016
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savor his roots. “My favorite dish is the Dirty Jersey panini. It’s comprised of Taylor Ham [also known as pork roll], served with American cheese, salt, pepper and ketchup on a soft ciabatta bun pressed in our special round panini press,” he says. “It reminds me of home. I have vivid memories of helping my dad milk the cows on the weekends and after finishing we used to go into town and get a variation of this breakfast sandwich, which is served in almost every deli in New Jersey.” ❖
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BLACK SHEEP
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CAFE
Bleu Adams and Oak Adams
A Marriage of Navajo and Mexican Cuisines By Aimee L. Cook Photos by Steven Vargo
T
hroughout Provo’s Black Sheep Cafe, there are subtle hints of Chef Mark Mason’s Navajo and Hidatsa roots. From the décor to the way the food is crafted and presented, Chef Mason puts his personal touch on everything. In fact, no dish leaves his kitchen without him tasting it first; tasting spoons are as abundant as spices in his kitchen. Mason has been cooking since as long as he can remember. For the past five years, he and his sister, Bleu Adams, have been running their restaurants— Black Sheep Cafe and Blue Poblano in Salt Lake City—in a style all their own with absolute attention to detail. The same is true of their new Sugar House Black Sheep location, where they are more concerned with quality than quantity, and each dish is made to order. “I am still a student; I strive to learn things every day. I don’t put any boundaries on myself: all cultures and all foods, I like to explore,” Mason says. “I was on my way to working in French and American kitchens in the Scottsdale area, until my sister got the culinary bug as a diner to open a restaurant. For six years, she saved money, bought tables and chairs, and then finally was able to go for it. She contacted me and asked me to design the menu and train the cooks. Five years later, I am still here.” Mason started cooking for the masses while living on a Navajo reservation during the 1990s. His family moved to the reservation in the 1980s and he picked up a keen interest in becoming a
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Devour Utah • November 2016 33
Pork Cheek Taco
Only the best in local brews
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chef. “I trained myself by watching videos on PBS’ Great Chefs of the World, and obtained the basics for being able to cook and get the fundamentals, since there was not a culinary program nearby,” he says. “I learned all the sauces etc., and set up my home kitchen as close to a professional kitchen as I could. I then ran a catering business on the reservation; my home was close to all the government complexes. We were welcome to bring food through the buildings so I jumped in with a small crew, loaded up the carts with enchiladas and tamales and smothered burritos.” According to Mason, there is not a Navajo dining culture to speak of. Food was basically a form of survival and meals were a social gathering. Using your hands is one of the most important skills in making native foods. “One of my fondest culinary memories was, when I was a kid, visiting my great grandmother, who lived in an actual hogan, and her making us blue corn mash for breakfast,” he says. “It had the traditional Native American spice—juniper ash—in it, and it was a favorite of mine.” Mason incorporates what some native tribes call the ‘three sisters’ in as many menu items as he can: corn, beans and squash. You will not be served tacos at his restaurants without
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both white and blue corn tortillas, a subtle yet important injection of his Native American culture. There is an ongoing debate among Navajo chefs on the subject of bread, since it symbolizes oppression to many. When Native Americans were put on reservations, they were given staples to live on such as flour, lard, sugar and baking powder. From these basic foodstuffs, Native American women created fry bread. Fry bread was always a treat at the Mason home, and the secret is in the hands—in the touch—which makes every cook’s version taste unique. Fry bread is on the Black Sheep menu in the form of a Navajo tacos. Channeling his heritage into his cooking has given Mason a profound respect for ingredients, animals and vegetables. The philosophy of not wasting—finding a way to use everything—reflects both his thoughts as a chef and his heritage. “I am very fortunate that being a chef picked me,” Mason says. “There is a very refreshing, spiritual and profound love between a chef who really cares and how his kitchen is run and the Native American philosophies. My kitchen philosophy is cook in beauty.” ❖
Black Sheep Cafe Salt Lake City 19 N. University Ave, Provo 1048 E. 2100 South No. 110, SLC 801-607-2485 801-742-5490 BlackSheepCafe.com 36 Devour Utah • November 2016
NOW BOOKING
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CONTACT ERIC HOOFANDVINE@GMAIL.COM Devour Utah • November 2016 37
2-3 lbs. boneless pork butt 2-3 tbsp. vegetable oil 1 large yellow onion (medium diced) 2 tbsp. dried Mexican oregano 1 tbsp. ground cumin 2 qt. low-sodium chicken broth 1 qt. water 2 4-oz. cans diced fire-roasted green chiles 6 cloves garlic 1 cup water 1 29-oz. can hominy salt flour tortillas
Black Sheep Cafe’s New Mexican/Navajo
Pozole Verde
Garnish (all are optional): red cabbage (shredded) red radish (thin sliced) jalapeño (thin sliced) sour cream lime wedges
38 Devour Utah • November 2016
Method: Cut the pork into 1-inch cubes and set aside. If using bone-in pork, trim the meat from the bone and simmer bone along with the pork. (Remove bone before serving.) Heat the oil in a large pot and sear pork over medium-high heat until browned. Sear in batches if necessary as to not crowd and steam the pork. Do not cook the pork completely through. Remove the pork using a slotted spoon and set aside. Add diced onions to the pot and cook until softened and browned, reducing heat to medium if necessary. Crush Mexican oregano in hands and add it to the onions. Add ground cumin. Stir constantly for 30 seconds until fragrant to “bloom” flavors. Add 1 tbsp. vegetable oil if needed. Add the water and stir, scraping up any browned bits. Add the reserved pork and accumulated liquids, along with the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 2 hours. Check liquid level occasionally, adding water if necessary. Lightly toast garlic cloves in a small sauté pan until light brown and fragrant. Place the garlic in a blender. Add 1 4-oz. can of green chilies to the blender. Add 1 cup water and blend to make a quick sauce. Set aside. After the pork has cooked for 2 hours, add the green chile sauce, remaining 4-oz. can of diced green chilies and the can of hominy (including liquid) to the pot. Add water if necessary to reach desired consistency. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Add salt to taste. Transfer to bowls and top with (optional) garnishes and squeezes of lime. Serve with warmed flour tortillas. ❖
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The
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Devour Utah • November 2016 41
Frida Bistro
Chile en Nogada 575 W. 700 South, SLC • 801-983-6692 FridaBistro.com
Rico Brand founder and Frida Bistro owner Jorge Fierro never lets me forget the faux pas I committed when I once wrote that burritos were an American invention, based on my never having seen one in Mexico. They are found, according to Fierro, in northern Mexico. My bad. But Fierro can rib me endlessly about my mistake as long as he also continues to feed me chile en nogada, a celebratory Mexican dish served at Frida Bistro. According to Fierro, chile en nogada—a dish that captures the red, green and white colors of the Mexican flag—was created by nuns in the city of Puebla, as a way of commemorating Mexican independence. I’ve eaten chile en
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nogada in Puebla, and it is as complex, beautiful and gourmet a dish as anything ever produced in Paris. To create chile en nogada at Frida Bistro, a roasted pasilla chili is stuffed with a sweet-and-savory mixture of shredded beef and pork, cooked rice, diced peaches, apples and tomato, minced red onion, dried cranberries, cream cheese, walnuts, and is seasoned with cinnamon and other spices. The stuffed chile is served atop a silky walnut-crème sauce and garnished with pomegranate seeds. Yes, it’s as delicious as it looks. ¡Viva Mexico! ❖ —Ted Scheffler Photos by Niki Chan
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7am-midnight Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sunday Devour Utah • November 2016 43
Pie of My Eye Five can’t-miss holiday pies By Maya Silver
“I
f you wish to make an apple pie from scratch,” astronomer Carl Sagan once said, “you must first invent the universe.” Sagan may have been referring to all the atoms and elements from which flour and butter are built, but his sage words also remind us of the more metaphorical ingredients in any excellent pie, like wisdom, zeal and love. If you’re playing host this holiday season and baking isn’t in your wheelhouse, fret not. Here are five places to order fantastic whole pies for Thanksgiving, Christmas or your next dinner party. 44 Devour Utah • November 2016
JUNE PIE
JUNE PIE
E
Sour cream lemon pie
very morning, June Pie owner Tehmi Brimhall bakes her pies fresh from scratch in her tiny Heber shop. The menu here changes weekly, and also includeshandpiesandawiderangeofdinner pies(everythingfromShepherdstoBarbecue Mac and Cheese).
Black bottom oatmeal pie
Crust confidential: Practice, practice and more practice—plus cold dough— has made June Pie’s crust a thing of perfection. Pie lineup: For the insatiable sweet tooth, the sugar cream is an enduring favorite, while Christmas calls for the chocolate peppermint. Enjoy with: “Fluffy mounds of whipped cream,” Brimhall says. Order up: Thanksgiving: By Nov. 22, though you might find some extras if you show up at the shop. Christmas: By Dec. 20. Non-holiday season: A week’s notice for big orders, and the week of is fine for smaller orders.
June Pie 133 N. Main, Heber City 435-503-6950 JunePie.com Devour Utah • November 2016 45
JADE CLEMENTS
Classic Apple Pie
P
ies have been a fundamental attraction at Left Fork Grill since Jeff Masten bought the restaurant just over adecadeago.“I’vebeenmakingpiessinceIwasakid,” says Masten, who learned the art from his mom. At Left Fork, guests often order their pie before their entrée and the kitchenfliesthrough400piesduringThanksgivingweekalone. Crust confidential: Masten’s secret to the all-important crust? Good, old-fashioned lard and baking in a glass dish to ensure a well-browned crust. Pie lineup: Among the ever-changing menu of at least six and up to a dozen pies, is the signature and singular raspberry cream pie based on an old cookbook recipe. And no customer order poses too great a pie challenge for Left Fork, so feel free to get creative with your request. Enjoy with: Masten’s favorite pie accompaniment is sharp cheddar cheese with apple pie—a bite of each as he goes. Order up: Thanksgiving: From Nov. 22 through Thanksgiving Day, Left Fork has a set pie menu (apple, pumpkin and pecan) and doesn’t take orders, so just stop by to claim yours. Christmas: At least 48 hours in advance. Non-holiday season: 24 hours in advance.
E
ast Coast-style Penny Ann’s Cafe is a jack of all foods, with award-winning hot cakes, breakfast and, yes, pies. You know the pie here’s the real deal because it’s a down-home family affair. Penny Ann Florence coowns the cafe with her sister Cindy, their brother Warren is executive chef, and brother Paul handles operations. Pie lineup: Choose from 10 pie flavors, plus special holiday options like sweet potato with pecan topping, and peppermint cream. We’re also head over heels for the white chocolate chip coconut cashew. Enjoy with: Whipped cream is the go-to here, unless we’re talking about the apple crumble pie—then it’s à la mode all the way. Order up: Thanksgiving: By Nov. 21. Christmas: By Dec. 22. Non-holiday season: 24 hours in advance. 46 Devour Utah • November 2016
Coconut Cream Pie
Penny Ann’s Café Various locations PennyAnnsCafe.com
JADE CLEMENTS
68 W. 3900 South, SLC 801-266-4322 LeftForkGrill.com
TIM STAZBURG
Left Fork Grill
NOW OPEN MONDAYS
TONA SUSHI BAR AND GRILL tonarestaurant.com 2013-2016
Best of State 2016
2012 - 2015
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi
Devour Utah • November 2016 47
The Dodo
1355 E. 2100 South, SLC 801-486-2473 TheDodoRestaurant.com
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Banana Creme Pie
F
or three decades, Utahans have been all about pie at The Dodo, specifically, the signature Tollhouse Pie. But Pastry Chef Ramon Montelongo—who’s been with the restaurant since it opened—has more sweet tricks up his sleeve, like a stunning Black Forest cake that will drop your guests’ jaws. Pie lineup: Montelongo’s creativity with the humble pumpkin will make you say, “Oh my gourd!” We’re talking pumpkin Frangelico
48 Devour Utah • November 2016
and pumpkin cream cheese, plus an eggnog cheesecake that will make you swoon. Enjoy with: The housemade fresh whipped cream. The Dodo even sells whipped cream and caramel by the container for you to take home. Order up: Thanksgiving, Christmas and non-holiday season: 48 hours in advance, but the sooner the better.
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Key Lime Pie
1255 Ironhorse Drive, Park City 435-647-2906 50 Devour Utah • November 2016 WindyRidgeBakery.com
JOHN TAYLOR
Windy Ridge Bakery
JOHN TAYLOR
H
The Mile-High Apple Pie
ead pastry duo Alphine Medina and Charlie Aguirre have both been with Windy Ridge since it opened more than a decade ago. Medina worked her way up from cashier to master of the sweet GBD (Golden Brown Delicious), and her passion for pie is contagious. Crust confidential: Cold butter and good parbaked dough ensure the crust won’t shrink and fulfills all your flaky dreams. Pie lineup: The Mile-High apple pie filled with Granny Smiths and notes of caramel is a memorymaker. And consider the maple pecan or mixed berry with a crumble topping for Thanksgiving. Enjoy with: Whipped cream on the Key lime—the others are fantastic as is. Order up: Thanksgiving: By Nov. 16. Christmas: By Dec. 16. Non-holiday season: At least 48 hours in advance. Devour Utah • November 2016 51
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1. Siegfried’s Delicatessen
Surprise a loved one with one of our German gift items or purchase our deli food to make classic meals at home. Our authentic German deli is full of souvenirs like aprons and magazines from Germany as well as gifts baskets filled with cookies, salami, pickles, bread, and chocolate. (DK) 20 West 200 South, SLC 385-355-1912 SiegfriedsDelicatessen.com
2. Spoons ‘N Spice
Spoons ‘N Spice, a local family business, started in 1973 and is now one of the largest kitchenware stores in the nation.(JV) 2274 South 1300 East, Suite #G9, SLC 801-263-1898 788 East 9400 South, Sandy 801-553-1988 SpoonsNSpice.com
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3. Jennifer Reeves Designs
Dark & Mysterious neck piece by Jennifer Reeves Designs. Rare found natural Lava stone necklace, black Onyx blending long tube Agate. Necklace length: 19” with Sterling Silver. (IW) 708-717-5942 JReevesDesigns.com
4. The Bar Method Sugarhouse
Did you know The Bar Method carries exclusive athleisure wear... from studio to street. Alo, Beyond Yoga, and Onzie. Check out this hot, new Bar Boutique right in the heart of Sugar House. All Comfort, All Style. (JV) 1057 East 2100 South, SLC Entrance and parking in back 801-485-4227 saltlakecity.barmethod.com
5. Basalt A Boutique Day Spa
Give the gift of relaxation and wellness from Basalt - Salt Lake’s newest day spa and boutique. From gift certificates and skincare to bath & body products and jewelry, Basalt has you covered! (KM) 402 East 900 South, SLC 801-532-2991 BasaltDaySpa.com
6. Snake Creek Grill
For the food lover on your list, purchase a gift certificate from Snake Creek Grill, Heber’s laidback casual grill. Gift certificates can be purchased at the restaurant or on our website. (JV) 650 West 100 South #6, Heber City 435-654-2133 SnakeCreekGrill.com
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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE AND GIVEAWAY During the months of November and December you can enter to win beautiful prizes from local shops and restaurants featured here in our special Gift Guide section. Visit devourutah.com and sign up for Devour Utah’s newsletter to get weekly updates on prizes.
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READER GIVEAWAYS NOV. 1 THRU DEC. 15
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7. Sugar House Furniture
9. Beehive Cheese Company
8. Rainbow Gardens
10. Rimini Coffee
The Holidays are just around the corner, and what would be a better gift for a friend or loved one than a Gift Certificate to Sugar House Furniture! (DK) 2892 S Highland Drive, SLC 801-485-3606 SugarHouseFurniture.com
Stroll through our historic retail complex located at the mouth of scenic Ogden canyon for gifts, food and fun! This back scratcher is the perfect unique gift idea for everyone on your list. (SS) 1851 Valley Drive, Ogden 801-621-1606 RainbowGardens.com
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Invite your friends over for a complete cheese party! Enjoy five 6-ounce cuts of cheese and our favorite accompaniments. (LD) 2440 East 6600 South, Suite 8, Uintah 801-476-0900 BeehiveCheese.com
Founded in 1992, Rimini Coffee has always been locally owned and roasted in Salt Lake City. Featuring fair trade organic Guatemalan throughout the holidays. Pick up a pound for your loved one. (SS) 532 South 400 West, SLC 801-539-1210 RiminiCoffee.com
11. The Point Pilates
13. Yoshi’s Japanese Grill
12. Native Flowers
14. Skinworks School Of Advanced Skincare
The Point Pilates focuses on transforming bodies through reformer pilates, mat pilates, yoga and circuit training classes. (LD) 2560 S. Main Street, SLC 801-940-0928 ThePointPilates.com
Give the gift of a bright atmosphere to all the flower-lovers and DIY enthusiasts in your life with a flower subscription that is hassle free. Your loved one will get a seasonal bouquet delivered right to their door every month. (SS) 1448 East 2700 South, SLC 801-364-4606 NativeFlowerCompany.com
Let us fully cater your next event!! Whether it’s a business lunch, a baby shower or holiday party - we are here to suit your needs! (LD) 5692 South 900 East, SLC 801-713-9423 JapaneseGrill.com
Pick up the perfect gift of skincare for everyone on your list. Our “Year Of Spa” package for only $362 gives your loved one 12 different treatments thoughout 2017. 2121 Nowell Circle, SLC 801-530-0001 skinworks.edu
Devour Utah • November 2016 53
Mocktails! Celebratory libations sans booze By Heather L. King • Photos By Caroline Hargraves
“A good bartender always has an arsenal of non-alcoholic beverages up their sleeve,” Amy Eldredge, bar manager of Under Current, learned early in her career. So whether you are a non-drinker, pregnant, dieting or recovering, here are four fantastic “mocktail” recipes from four of our favorite watering holes. They’ll allow you to celebrate with family and friends without feeling left out of the party. Continue on p. 56
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T he Mocktail:
The New Orleans Collins T he Maker: Amy Eldredge Under Current 279 S. 300 East, SLC 801-574-2556 UnderCurrentBar.com
“This is my go-to for mocktails,” Under Current’s Amy Eldredge says. The name stems from the style of cocktail it derives from as well as the abundance of Peychaud’s Bitters it contains. The New Orleans Collins: ¾ oz. lime juice 2 oz. grapefruit juice ¾ oz. simple syrup 3-4 sprigs mint 8 heavy dashes Peychaud’s Bitters Club soda Shake all ingredients briskly and strain into a Collins glass. Top with club soda and garnish with a mint sprig.
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NOW ACCEPTING RESERVATIONS FOR HOLIDAY PARTIES
The Tin Angel is a locally owned, locally driven Art, Dining and Cocktail experience in the heart of Downtown Salt Lake’s Historic Pioneer Park District with ample off street parking. Reservations: 801-328-4155
GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE
Devour Utah • November 2016 57
The newest addition to hip Gallivan Avenue, Good Grammar has crafted a menu of cocktails based both on classic drinks and preparation as well as popculture icons—whose visages grace the walls of the bar in grand style. Farrah’s Wheel: 2.5 oz orange juice 2.5 oz grapefruit juice splash of Garwood’s ginger beer Lightly stir with ice to chill. Strain into rocks glass over ice. Top with Garwood’s ginger beer until full. Garnish with peeled orange wheel and Luxardo cherry.
T he Mocktail:
Farrah’s Wheel T he Maker: Fallan Keyser Good Grammar
69 E. Gallivan Ave., SLC 385-415-5002 GoodGrammar.bar 58 Devour Utah • November 2016
Devour Utah • November 2016 59
T he Mocktail:
My Bloody Christmas T he Maker: Whiskey Street 323 S. Main, SLC 801-433-1371 WhiskeyStreet.com
Whiskey Street suggests that this tasty mocktail can be whipped up as a punch offering at holiday parties or made individually. Drink it plain or add spiced rum for a leaded version. My Bloody Christmas: 1 oz. Falernum syrup (which is made with sugar, cloves, vanilla, lime and allspice) 1 oz. pineapple juice 2 oz. orange juice San Pellegrino Aranciata Rossa (blood orange soda) Mix all ingredients and top with San Pellegrino Aranciata Rossa. Garnish with an orange wheel.
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mandarinutah.com Devour Utah • November 2016 61
T he Mocktail:
Turkey Tamer T he Maker: Clif Reagle HSL and Handle
418 E. 200 South, SLC 801-539-9999 HSLRestaurant.com 136 Heber Ave, Park City 435-602-1155 HandleParkCity.com
HSL and Handle bartender Clif Reagle recommends making the tea syrup in this mocktail using the Anti-Stress blend from The Tea Grotto. It has a holiday spice quality that reminds him of time spent dining at home with his family when he was younger. Alcohol imbibers can add vodka, gin, rum or rye whiskey. Turkey Tamer: 1 oz. tea syrup* 1.5 oz. grapefruit punch* 1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice 4 drops of salt water Combine all ingredients and shake with ice, strain over ice into a collins glass. (For a less sweet beverage cut with soda water.) Garnish with a grapefruit twist and whatever spices suit your fancy. I used shaved nutmeg and cinnamon sticks.
*TEA SYRUP
30 g spiced tea (such as AntiStress from The Tea Grotto) 400 ml simple syrup Combine tea and simple syrup in an airtight container and let steep in the fridge overnight. You can adjust for flavor to taste by adding more tea, less syrup, adding water, etc.
*GRAPEFRUIT PUNCH
150 g grapefruit peel 270 g sugar 300 g grapefruit juice 180 ml water Muddle peels and sugar together until sugar creates a rough paste. Add grapefruit juice to the mixture and stir to dissolve grains. Strain peels but do not discard. Mix water with peels, strain again. Store cold. (This is roughly 3 large grapefruits, and would serve around 10-13 people depending on glassware used and soda added).
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o s o i c i l e D Now Booking
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U O Y E ? R A R T O A F H W ITING . W A O W N . T I F T GE
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WWW.THEPOINTPILATES.COM Devour Utah • November 2016 63
JADE CLEMENTS
Gratitude M Harvesting
Celebrating Thanksgiving, Aussie-style
JADE CLEMENTS
Pumpkin pavlova
JADE CLEMENTS
Turkey pumpkin damper
Glayva-laced eggnog 64 Devour Utah • November 2016
y Nan and I lazed beneath the delicate, purple plumage of her Jacaranda tree in suburban Western Australia one afternoon in the late 1980s. “We’d better get organized, Pet. Thanksgiving will be here before we know it.” She squeezed my knee affectionately, as if to call her favorite granddaughter to action. Thanksgiving? The American holiday? Had my decidedly British Nan had a momentary lapse of lineage? That majestic Jacaranda tree stood silent witness as Nan declared our commitment to the holiday of togetherness fueled by family, friends, food and frivolity. I stated the obvious, “We’re not American, Nan.” She chortled, “Grace and gratitude are universal!” My wise Nan had roused my cultural curiosity yet again. An avid consumer of ’80s U.S. films and sitcoms, I was clear on the notion to uphold gracious, kind behavior across the Thanksgiving weekend (and before and after). But how were we wet-behind-the-ears Aussies going to express our fervor for our newfound holiday? Sharpen our knives and carve pumpkins? What would we wear, eat, drink and actually do once the feasting and cleanup were done and dusted? Deciding when to celebrate was the first hurdle. Forever the lone wolf, Canada won’t apologize for celebrating the harvest five weeks earlier than the States on the second Monday in October. The U.S.-colonized African country, Liberia, marks the first Thursday in November with spicy flair, and the greater United States and Puerto Rico turn yam-centric on the last Thursday in November. Thanksgiving appears freewheeling in etiquette and protocol, and tolerant of the multicultural gamut of dysfunctional norms. If only all holidays would follow suit! We each associate, interpret and personalize tradition, and our connection to holidays and seasons differ. Tailoring and embracing customs that resonate within our families leads to a shared, genuine joy instead of fiery, family feuds. The point is that it doesn’t matter how, where and with what you celebrate. It’s about whom you choose to be with and why. Being comfortable and thankful for the here and now—the gift of presence is the present to yourself and others. Modern-day Thanksgiving greeting cards blend folklore and idealized sentiment, depicting Pilgrims and Native Americans reveling in their combined bounty. It’s an inspired melding of race, religion and culture, and a far cry from the actual widespread theft and ruthless mass murders of the “savage” landowners by religious zealots. Do we dare discuss this hot yam of a topic at the table or do we graciously “give thanks” for our individual places at (hopefully) rational, peaceful and welcoming tables? Our inaugural Australian Thanksgiving adaptation yielded questionable holiday fare that was prepared, baked and devoured in squelchy, 108-degree November heat. Fish ’n’ sweet potato chips, turkey pumpkin damper (or bread), pumpkin lamingtons (a sponge-like cake), Glayva-laced eggnog—a nod to my Glaswegian Grandfather—and pumpkin pavlova: The quintessential Aussie meringue dessert, blended with that ubiquitous, hallowed Thanksgiving gourd. We all vowed to hone our culinary and decorative contributions for future Thanksgivings. Sadly, my Nan left us in 2003. I uphold her affection and tradition for harvesting gratitude each year and find it serendipitous to now live in America. Zip codes aside, I’m mindful during the holiday season to summon the all-important celebratory H’s—plenty of heart, humility and hunger—for life, connection, love and food—naturally. ❖ Joanne Miller
Fresh, homemade, award winning food & pastries Best
of Utah
2015
Best Scratch Bakery
62 E. Gallivan Ave. 801-961-9000 FromScratchSLC.com
Devour Utah • November 2016 65
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