vol. 2 no. 7 • september 2016 • Dine
It’s time to Under-theRadar Eats p. 34
Hot Dog! p. 14 Dining Solo p. 24
Timing is Everything p. 42 Devour Utah • September 2016 1
2 Devour Utah • September 2016
Devour Utah • September 2016 3
Affordable entrées BY AMANDA ROCK
Contents
Hot Dog!
Exploring the gourmet tubesteak BY AIMEE L. COOK
The Spread Stanza
BY HEATHER L. KING
Dining Solo
The art of eating alone BY REBECCA ORY-HERNANDEZ
The Deconstruct Skewered Thai
BY TED SCHEFFLER
Under-the-Radar Eats Six excellent eateries you probably don’t know BY TED SCHEFFLER
Timing is Everything Pacing the perfect meal
BY MOLLIE MCCONAHAY-SNIDER
Old Dogs, New Tricks DIY elixirs for the home bar BY DARBY DOYLE
How to Dine
Dos & don’ts for eating out BY VANESSA CHANG
4 Devour Utah • September 2016
NIKI CHAN
10 14 22 24 30 34 42 48 60
The Deelish Dish
Devour Utah • September 2016 5
DEVOUR CONTRIBUTORS STAFF
Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Editorial Staff Contributors
Photographers
TED SCHEFFLER ANDREA HARVEY, LANCE GUDMUNDSEN VANESSA CHANG, AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, HEATHER L. KING, MOLLIE MCCONAHAY-SNIDER, REBECCA ORY-HERNANDEZ, AMANDA ROCK DEREK CARLISLE, NIKI CHAN, CAROLINE HARGRAVES, TYSON ROLLINS, JOHN TAYLOR
Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCOLLECTIVE contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at aBourbonGal.com.
Production Art Director Assistant Production Manager Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE MASON RODRICKC SUMMER MONTGOMERY, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, CAIT LEE
Business/Office Accounting Manager Associate Business Manager Office Administrator Technical Director Business Dept. Administrator
CODY WINGET PAULA SALTAS CELESTE NELSON BRYAN MANNOS ALISSA DIMICK
Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.
Marketing Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator
JACKIE BRIGGS NICOLE ENRIGHT
Circulation Circulation Manager
LARRY CARTER
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives Account Manager
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER JEREMIAH SMITH, SIERRA SESSIONS, LISA DORELLI, TYSON ROGERS IVY WATROUS
Cover Photo: Enchiladas Rojas Con Queso y Aguacate at Alamexo by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2016. All rights reserved
6 Devour Utah • September 2016
Rebecca Ory-Hernandez is a freelance writer, home cook and artist who lives (and gardens) in Ogden.
Born and raised in Indianapolis, Ind., Mollie McConahay-Snider relocated to the Pacific Northwest following college. After a decade of working in the Oregon wine industry, Mollie earned her Le Cordon Bleu culinary arts degree from Portland’s Western Culinary Institute. A former chef at Salt Lake Culinary Center, Mollie is now a freelance food and beverage writer, performs cooking demonstrations around Salt Lake City and is currently completing her first book.
Devour Utah • September 2016 7
CHILI BEAK utah’s original hot sauce alternative
- vegan - gluten free - no vinegar
Dying Dine to
The ins and outs of dining in and out
I
don’t know of a time when dining—especially in restaurants—was a bigger part of our culture than it is now. We have turned into a nation of food lovers and dining out is a sport most of us participate in, at least occasionally, if not regularly. Proving that even “fine” dining doesn’t have to break the bank, in this “Dine” issue of Devour Utah, Amanda Rock unveils four budget-worthy restaurant entrées that taste like a million bucks. Mollie McConahay-Snider reminds readers (and restaurateurs) of the importance of proper pacing while dining out, with a focus on two restaurants that get it right: one nationally known, the other home-grown. While dining with others is the norm, Rebecca Ory-Hernandez sings the praises of dining solo, and provides some useful tips on where to do it, while Aimee L. Cook reminds us that not all dining is “fine,” with her article about where to find the top dog in hot dogs. One of the newest and shiniest Salt Lake City eateries is Stanza Italian Bistro & Wine Bar, and Heather L. King gives readers a glimpse of that smokin’ hot spot. Meanwhile, yours truly offers up a half-dozen delicious dining destinations that I’m betting most of you didn’t know existed, from Bountiful to Draper. For our libations section, Darby Doyle provides a master class in the art and technique of making shrubs, syrups and other infusions for classy cocktails at home. And Vanessa Chang closes out the issue with some words and wisdom on the art of being a good customer with dining-out dos and don’ts. Hint: The customer isn’t always right. Maybe you’ll choose to peruse this Devour while dining solo at your favorite friendly eatery, or read through it while dining at home. However and wherever you do it, take the time to get out and DINE sometime this week. ❖
FIND US AT
downtown farmers market park silly sunday market liberty heights fresh caputos harmons whole foods
—Ted Scheffler Editor
Roasted Artichoke at Caffe Niche
DISCOVER MORE AT: 8 Devour Utah • September 2016
JOHN TAYLOR
www.chilibeak.com
SERVING BRUNCH SATURDAY & SUNDAY lunch: mon-fri - dinner: sun-sat
COTTONWOOD 6405 South 3000 East SLC, UT 84121 801-944-8746
DOWNTOWN 680 South 900 East SLC, UT 84102 801-533-8746
SALT LAKE’S PREMIER PATIO DINING
Devour Utah • September 2016 9
flavor big
small budget
Tastes that tantilize but don’t topple the paycheck by amanda rock Photos by john taylor
10 Devour Utah • September 2016
Whole Roasted artichoke $8 .00 Enchiladas Rojas Con Queso y Aguacate $16.95
W
hile an occasional splurge is essential, you don’t need to empty your pocketbooks to enjoy Salt Lake City’s fine dining scene. Each delicious dish in this list of fantastic values boasts superior flavor using topnotch ingredients—all made by some of our city’s primo chefs.
Enchiladas Rojas Con Queso y Aguacate Alamexo chef and owner Matt Lake takes great pride in his authentic Mexican cuisine. The enchiladas rojas con queso y aguacate is an impressive dish, to say the least. Two corn tortillas are stuffed with queso and creamy avocado (aguacate), and then baked in salsa rojo. The avocado supplies a cool contrast to the rich red chile flavors. Topped with a sprinkling of queso fresco, onion, radish and cilantro, this dish is so gratifying you won’t miss the meat. Served with a generous serving of housemade beans and rice to round out the meal, you can look forward to leftovers the next day. Alamexo Mexican Kitchen 268 S. State 801-779-4747 Alamexo.com
Whole Roasted Artichoke The whole roasted artichoke from Caffe Niche is the kind of vegetable you want to be alone with. Roasted to tender perfection, each leaf is plump and meaty. Served halved, drizzled with olive oil and a sprinkle of Black sea salt alongside a creamy remoulade for dipping, this dish’s each and every bite is delectable. A small plate is perfect to share before moving onto chef Andrea Shay Morrison’s enticing entrées. If you don’t care to share (we won’t blame you!), order a glass of wine and enjoy your artichoke as a satisfying small meal. Caffe Niche 779 E. 300 South 801-433-3380 CaffeNiche.com Devour Utah • September 2016 11
Pasta carbonara $1 .00 5
Pasta Carbonara When The Copper Onion opened in 2010, chef and owner Ryan Lowder‘s pasta carbonara was the talk of the town. This simple and decadent dish is still one of their most popular menu items. Fresh housemade fettuccine with savory bits of smoked bacon is topped with finely shredded grana padano cheese. Nestled inside you’ll discover a raw egg yolk; the magic comes together as you stir it into the pasta creating a rich, velvety sauce. This comfort food appears on the lunch menu for an even lower price. The Copper Onion 111 E. 300 South 801-355-3282 TheCopperOnion.com
beef cheek burger $1 .00 5
Beef Cheek Burger This year’s most celebrated burger comes from HSL, a sister restaurant of Park City’s much-lauded Handle. Over-achiever chef Briar Handly makes this burger using tender beef cheeks sourced from Niman Ranch. But he doesn’t just stop with the best beef. The American cheese, which tops the burger, is made in-house, as are the pickles, served in a small mason jar. Accompanied by crisp, duck-fat potatoes with an aioli sauce, this is truly the best burger experience in Salt Lake City—each detail is delicious. HSL 418 E. 200 South 801-539-9999 HSLRestaurant.com
12 Devour Utah • September 2016
Devour Utah • September 2016 13
r u o Y Not
e g a r e Av
The American hot dog gets a facelift
W
hether you call them bangers, wieners, franks, tubesteaks or simply hot dogs, this good ol’ American food is trending up. No longer just found on the kid’s menu in restaurants, a fancy dog unites our childhood nostalgia with our adult palate. And lucky for us dog lovers, there is a vast variety of this handheld, bun-wrapped cuisine all around. Here are a few terrific spots to get your lips around a delicious dog. 14 14 Devour Devour Utah Utah • • September September 2016 2016
BY
Aimee
L. Cook photos by
tyson rollins
R
ed Hot owner Francis Liong is a transplant from Los Angeles. After being in the restaurant business for several years, he ventured into the world of gourmet hot dogs. A fan favorite is the “Hawaii Five-O.” It’s so full of flavor you almost forget you are eating a hot dog. The all-Wagu-beef dog from Snake River Farms in Idaho is topped with pineapple salsa, bacon, teriyaki and Japanese mayo. Liong’s housemade beef chili also makes for a good topping, or a side. And as an added treat, Liong serves poutine with his housemade beef.
Red Hot
2227 S. Highland Drive Ste. D5 Sugar House 801-486-1327 RedHot-Dog.com
Devour Devour Utah Utah • • September September 2016 2016 15 15
T
he California-based Dog Haus franchise made its way to Utah in 2016. Best known for their all-beef, skinless “Haus Dogs” and handcrafted sausages, the three original founders set out to take the classic, casual hot dog and turn them into a gourmet experience. The “Scott Baioli” is a mammoth and a challenge to eat without a fork. The beef dog is housed on a perfectly toasted, sweet, Hawaiian bun, atop slices of white American cheese. It is then taken up a notch with toppings of smoked bacon, caramelized onions and a generous drizzle of garlic aioli. For a completely different experience, try the “Another Night in Bangkok.” The spicy Thai currywurst is topped with a peanut sauce, sweet slaw and crushed peanuts. The flavor combinations are robust and unexpected.
Dog Haus
Johnniebeefs
10261 S. State Sandy 801-987-3202 DogHaus.com
6913 S. 1300 East Midvale 801-352-0372 Johnniebeefs.com
J
ohnniebeefs owner John Carrasquilla is a native of Chicago. He only serves premium top-round beef dogs and poppy seed buns that he imports from his home town, so his “Chicago Dog” is about as authentic as you can get here in the Beehive. This classic is probably the most well-known: an all-beef dog topped with yellow mustard, onions, neon green relish, tomatoes, sport peppers, a pickle spear and celery salt. You can get the Chicago Dog with a veggie link as well. And, since John is now a local, he has a “Utah Dog” on the menu—all beef topped with just yellow mustard. 16 Devour Utah • September 2016
NOW OPEN MONDAYS
TONA SUSHI BAR AND GRILL tonarestaurant.com 2013-2016
Best of State 2016
2012 - 2015
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi
Devour Utah • September 2016 17
T
he Farr Family, best known for their ice cream, added another American favorite to their store three years ago: Dexter Dogs. There are more than seven varieties of hot dogs to choose from, but the original “Dexter Dog” is the most popular. This beef dog is topped with a sweet barbeque “Dexter Sauce,” banana peppers and a pickle spear. Also on the menu is the “Southwest Dog,” topped with Dexter sauce, diced jalapeño peppers, shredded pepper jack cheese, chipotle mayo and crunchy tortilla strips.
Dexter Dogs 50 South Main Salt Lake City 801-363-1987
I
f corn dogs are what you crave, Burgers & Barley has the remedy. The mini beef dogs are lightly coated in a sweet, light corn breading and fried to the right amount of crispness. They’re served with a hot mustard aioli, making it the perfect sweet-and-savory combination.
Burgers & Barley
1890 Bonanza Drive Park City 435-602-1170 Burgers-Barley.com
18 Devour Utah • September 2016
MORNING, NOON & NOW NIGHTS! BEGINING AUG. 12
Bake 360 Pastry, Plates and Spirits 725 E. 12300 S. 801-571-1500 olsensbake360.com ***3 Best of State Awards
A family of restaurants with
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!
Chabaar Beyond Thai
Tea Rose Diner
Siam Noodle Bar
87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100
65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111
5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT 801-262-1888
Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM Devour Utah • September 2016 19
W
ith simple pricing and simple toppings, JDawgs is all about the special sauce. Top off your choice of a beef or a polish dog with sauerkraut, onions, banana peppers, jalapeños and pickles. The dogs are split into the shape of an X while grilling to allow for more of that house sauce to soak in. Bonus: You can also purchase the sauce and make your own version at home.
JDawgs 3633 N. Thanksgiving Way Lehi 801-763-9540 JDawgs.com
20 20 Devour Devour Utah Utah • • September September 2016 2016
TASTE SUMMER.
Contemporary Japanese Dining L U N C H • D I N N E R • C O C K TA I L S
18 MARKET STREET • 801.519.9595
Devour Utah • September 2016 21
The
pread S Burrata Caprese, Lobster Spaghetti and Duck Breast
22 Devour Utah • September 2016
Stanza Italian Bistro & Wine Bar Phelix Gardner’s creative Italian cuisine
R
ising in the former site of Faustina, Stanza Italian Bistro & Wine Bar beckons to diners from 300 South with the promise of fine Italian-inspired cuisine. Here, you’ll find everything from small plates like the mouth-watering lamb carpaccio with marinated asparagus, to the Caesar salad dressed with addicting mustard vinaigrette and anchovies by request. Follow up these tasty offerings with entrées such as the classic veal saltimbocca with prosciutto and roasted mushrooms, or Utah trout with a creamy white bean purée. But, be sure to save room for a pasta course—or skip directly to it—for this is where the bistro and its Executive Chef Phelix Gardner are really getting creative. “We are currently making seven different pastas in-house,” he says. Two are filled, one is gnocchi and four are extruded. “This is the first restaurant where I’ve had access to a pasta extruder, so that is where most of my research and day-to-day excitement is currently coming from,” Gardner continues. “We’ve been playing around with changing the basic recipe of semolina, water and salt to replace those ingredients with things like ground seaweed and mushrooms, and using carrot juice to replace the water in recipes. I feel that it will be a great outlet for further creative development in the future.” Additionally, they’ve adapted the gnocchi recipe to be vegan by using olive oil instead of egg yolk. Bustling during the first few months of business, Stanza’s menu is solidly set with customer favorites so Gardner and the kitchen crew can now turn their attention to local and seasonal products. “I’ve been sourcing ingredients that are new to me,” Gardner explains. “Joe Sargetakis at Frog Bench Farms is currently cultivating nepitella for Stanza. It is a Tuscan wild herb that is in the mint family.” Expect to see other ingredients that aren’t readily available in the area to pop up regularly— perhaps in a version of ribolitta, soups based off roasted garlic and mushrooms, or traditional interpretations such as tortellini in brodo. ❖
Chef Phelix Gardner
Lobster Spaghetti
454 E. 300 South, SLC 801-746-4441 StanzaSLC.com —By Heather L. King Photos by Niki Chan Devour Utah • September 2016 23
SOLO MIO In defense of eating alone
By Rebecca Ory-Hernandez
24 Devour Utah • September 2016
JOHN TAYLOR VANESSA TILLMAN
A
Tin Angel’s Artichoke Risotto cake for one
group of friends were playing the “guilty pleasures” game last week, and it didn’t take me long to blurt out, “Dining alone!” I was met with much surprise, since I cook a lot. And by a lot, I mean every day, nearly every meal, as a personal chef. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy going out to dinner with a group of friends like anyone else, and I’m completely all-in when my husband invites me out to special-occasion supper. But I do enjoy a nice, quiet meal in solitude as a form of nurturing, indulgent respite. It’s so nice once in a while to enjoy someone else cooking something special just for me, not to mention the added bonus of having another person take care of the dishes. I completely understand that not everyone embraces my sort of enthusiasm for dining alone. But if you do, or you find yourself traveling and the need to eat alone is obvious, there are some nice options in Salt Lake City. Here are a few ideas— sans chain restaurants, in either a quiet corner of a quaint neighborhood café, or getting absorbed in the crowd of a bustling high-volume venue. The bonus? As a single diner, you’ll rarely have to wait for a table.
Devour Utah • September 2016 25
Patio perfection for savory solace
JOHN TAYLOR
Em’s wild salmon
26 Devour Utah • September 2016
JOHN TAYLOR
Publik coffee roasters
To get that relaxed, comfortable atmosphere away from the stimulation of technology, I like heading to Em’s Restaurant (271 N. Center St.). Em’s feels like I can relax right when I walk in. It’s like stepping into a relative’s historical home (that conveniently has a coffee shop attached to the north side). It has a friendly staff, a lovely vine-covered patio, plenty of locals, yet the comfortable and quiet vibe makes me want to linger. Em’s serves a delicious variety (the seasonal cold beet borscht is exceptional in summer) of salads, hot entrées and sandwiches. Plates are manageable for one. Chef Emily Gassmann cooks dinners herself on the weekends, so making a reservation is a smart move. But there’s also counter seating, so you don’t have to. Another fun option for solo noshing is the Avenues Bistro on Third (564 E. Third Ave.), where you can enjoy the friendly Avenues neighborhood vibe, and walk around back to visit the community garden and even watch the hens while waiting for your meal on the patio. (Note that they are closed on Monday and Tuesdays.) Service is casual and friendly; the food is terrific. Plan on taking a little more time to eat at the Avenues, since no one will rush you. It’s a place to relax and unwind. There’s even a great collection of cookbooks to help pass the time if you’re in need of reading material. You can watch the cars go by in the Sugar House neighborhood and get a nice, early start on the day with some homemade toast and coffee at Publik Coffee Roasters (931 E. 900 South), situated inside a converted home. They open at 7 a.m. for you early risers.
DEREK CARLISLE
Cozy comfort at Avenues Bistro on Third
Patino Ope
Small Batch Modern American Craft Kitchen
Flowers, Gifts & Gallery
New Summer Menu & Cocktail List
1344 S. 2100 E. | 801.521.4773 everybloomingthing.com
3364 s 2300 e, SLC slcprovisions.com
You’ve just got to come in!
Devour Utah • September 2016 27
NIKI CHAN
Kyoto has you at ease eating solo
28 Devour Utah • September 2016
JOHN TAYLOR
Takashi’s Ceviche Roll
The Tin Angel Café (365 W. 400 South), on the outskirts of the busy downtown hotel district and directly across from Pioneer Park, offers an interesting variety of healthy food, outdoor seating for singles to enjoy and even a sushi menu. The friendly owners treat everyone—from large groups dining before a concert, to solo customers—like part of the Tin Angel family. Be sure to try the awesome “Patos Tacos.” Speaking of sushi, there’s nothing easier and more relaxed about dining solo than sitting at a sushi counter. Sushi chefs are accustomed to serving singles, and are likely to strike up a conversation with you while preparing something delicious that you’ve never imagined. Go ahead and put your meal in their hands. Other solo diners are likely to compare notes with you about rolls if you decide you’d like to strike up a conversation. When craving good sushi downtown, give Takashi (18 W. Market St.) a try. Takashi Gibo’s creative sushi and abundant sake selection might actually make you feel like you should dine alone more often. Get there early. If the line is daunting, try Kyoto (1080 E. 1300 South). Award-winning, Japanese-trained chef Peggi Ince-Whiting heads up the Kyoto sushi counter. I’ve had such nice conversations unwinding with locals and travelers at sushi bars over the years, and you will, too. Whatever you’re up for, these local places and many others can make you comfortable as a solo diner. You just might be surprised at how pleasant dining alone can be. Unplug, and indulge in a little solitude. There’s respite in the act of dining alone. ❖
JOHN TAYLOR
tin angel’s eclectic atmosphere offers entertaining space for thought
Spaghetti A ll’Ubr ia
co
282 S 300 W Salt Lake City (801) 328-3463 • toscanaslc.com
Devour Utah • September 2016 29
The DECONSTRUCT
30 Devour Utah • September 2016
S
ome of my favorite local chefs consider Skewered Thai to be their goto dining destination for excellent Thai cuisine. I can see why. The Thai ladies cooking in the kitchen turn out superbly authentic dishes at owner Lek Changkiendee’s sparkling eatery. The curries are very well balanced—not too sweet and not too spicy. Noodle dishes—from pad Thai and glass noodles to the wide, pan-fried rice noodles in their pad kee mao (drunken noodles)—are simply sensational. The single most popular menu item at Skewered Thai, says Changkiendee, is the pineapple fried rice. Steamed jasmine rice is stir-fried in a large, hot wok with eggs and sliced onion. Shrimp, fresh ginger, scallions, garlic and tomato pieces are added, along with oyster and fish sauce. But what really sets this dish apart from standard Chinese-style fried rice is the fragrant and delectable blend of spices and fruits that are incorporated: turmeric, yellow curry powder and salt, along with raisins, cashew –By Ted Scheffler nuts and fresh chunks of Photos by Niki Chan pineapple, all garnished with cucumber slices and topped with crushed peanuts. It’s as delicious to look at as it is to eat. ❖
Pineapple Fried Rice 575 S. 700 East, SLC 801-364-1144 SkeweredThai.com
Devour Utah • September 2016 31
THE
HALF-DOZEN
32 Devour Utah • September 2016
Six excellent eateries you’ve probably never heard of By Ted Scheffler
Photos by Derek Carlisle
he most satisfying aspect of being a restaurant critic and food writer is turning people on to great restaurants or foods they don’t know about. Sometimes those places are new and unknown; sometimes they’re just eateries that somehow manage to fly under the radar. Or, they might just be in neighborhoods or areas less frequented than, say, downtown Salt Lake City. Well, it’s my pleasure to introduce six such dining destinations to Devour readers. I’m willing to bet you don’t know of them, but you should. They’re all well worth paying a visit, no matter where you’re coming from. With talented chef Jeffrey Sanich (formerly of North Fork Table & Tavern) recently joining the husband-and-wife team of owners Roy and Jennifer Olsen, Draper’s Bake 360 has introduced dinner service to complement the restaurant’s much-loved pastries, desserts and café menu. The “from scratch” kitchen, which specializes in traditional European baked goods, now features Sanich’s creative cuisine and dishes such as tea-smoked duck, local charcuterie and cheeses, heirloom carrot risotto and Mediterranean lamb meatballs. Bake 360 was established in 2012 as a retail bakery producing baked goods from around the world. The café menu sports items like croque madame and monsieur, open-faced Scandinavian sandwiches called smørrebrød and a teeth-tingling selection of breakfast and dessert pastries, cakes and cookies. Chef Sanich says, “I first became aware of Bake 360 a couple of years ago when I luckily stumbled across a beautiful almond croissant, the likes of which I had not seen outside of Europe or Manhattan. I was blown away.” You will be, too.
BAKE 360
Bake 360 725 E. 12300 South, Draper 801-571-1500 OlsensBake360.com Devour Utah • September 2016 33
Following upon the success of her Saffron Valley eateries, Lavanya Mahate’s Biscotts Pastry & Chai pays tribute to the London cafés that combine English and Indian traditions of chai with pastry. In the decades before and after 1700, there were some 3,000 such coffee houses/cafés in London. The pastry menu at Biscotts features loaf cakes, biscuits, cookies, croissants, rolls, puffs, muffins, macaroons, breads and more, while breakfast and lunch menus offer items like poached eggs with saucy beans, “brekkie pots,” “toasties,” paninis, wraps, soups, sandwiches and such. Beverages include fresh juices, smoothies, coffees, organic hot teas and chai flavors—ranging from caramel rooibos and Dutch chocolate to apple-spice, vanilla and detox green. If you’re looking for a little slice of London in Utah, just head to Biscotts.
HIDDEN HALF DOZEN
Biscotts Pastry & Chai 1098 W. South Jordan Parkway, South Jordan 801-890-0659 Biscotts.com
Black Forest Cake
Este Deli Anyone familiar with Utah’s Este Pizzerias knows that they’re always in the running for best New York City-style pizza awards and accolades. Well, now the owners have brought an Eastern mentality and flavor to deli sandwiches in Utah. At Este Deli, you’ll find authentic Philly cheesesteaks (my son, who lives just outside of Philadelphia, proclaimed them as the best he’s ever had), an awesome roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe and roasted red peppers, the killer “Pittsburgh”: navel pastrami, sharp provolone, house slaw, french fries and mayo, and other hot sandwiches along with cold East Coast-worthy hoagies. They also offer burgers and hot dogs, as well as Buffalo wings, fried pickles and root beer floats. Go Este, young man! Este Deli 1702 S. Main, SLC 801-487-3354 EstePizzaCo.com 34 Devour Utah • September 2016
Biscotts Pastry & Chai Philly Cheesesteak Sandwich
Delicious Food, Great Atmosphere!
Now Open at 110 W. Broadway, SLC, UT 715 East. 12300 South. Draper, UT 801-996-8155 Devour Utah • September 2016 35
I don’t normally associate white linen tablecloths, modern décor and a wine list that includes Dom Pérignon Champagne with authentic Chinese restaurants. But that describes Hot Dynasty, a wonderful Asian eatery tucked away in Salt Lake City’s Chinatown Supermarket building. White linen tablecloths cover each table, and the airy, modern décor is given a festive touch with dozens of white rice paper lamps that beckon customers. The place is spotless, and the servers are exceptionally helpful and friendly. One of the best dishes here—and there are many—is called “Famous Boiled in Chili.” It’s a dozen or more pieces of oh-so-tender boneless fish fillets, cooked perfectly in an über-spicy broth with veggies and cilantro, topped with a handful of dried red chili flakes. It comes in a huge bowl; one order could literally feed eight people. The “Chicken Dry Pot” and “Sichuan Cold Noodles” are just a couple more can’t-miss dishes.
HIDDEN HALF DOZEN
Hot Dynasty 3390 S. State, SLC 801-712-5332 HotDynasty.com
Famous Boiled in Chili
Plates & Palates Small, local and family-owned describes Bountiful’s Plates and Palates. And, so does value, delicious and friendly. Open for lunch weekdays and for dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings, this restaurant specializes in from-scratch salads, soups and paninis, and also offers kitchen items and tableware for sale. My wife has enjoyed the tomato penne pasta with fresh basil, pine nuts and Parmesan-balsamic dressing at least a dozen times, while I tend to lean toward the Mediterranean panini made with cracked wheat bread, salami, ham, artichoke tapenade, roasted bell pepper, feta and provolone. Don’t pass up their delectable cheesecake if it’s available. Plates and Palates 390 N. 500 West, Bountiful 801-292-2425 PlatesAndPalates.com 36 Devour Utah • September 2016
Mediterranean Panini
Hot Dynasty
-CREEKSIDE PATIO-86 YEARS AND GOING STRONG-BREAKFAST SERVED DAILY UNTIL 4PM-DELICIOUS MIMOSAS & BLOODY MARY’S-LIVE MUSIC SAT & SUN 11AM-2PM“In a perfect world, every town would have a diner just like Ruth’s” -CityWeekly
Serving American Comfort Food Since 1930
$15
99
During the Month of September
AS SEEN ON “ DINERS, DRIVE-INS AND DIVES”
“Like having dinner at Mom’s in the mountains” -Cincinnati Enquirer
authentic
Mexican Food & cantina Since 1997
4160 EMIGRATION CANYON ROAD
801 582-5807 WWW.RUTHSDINER.COM
S ON JOIN U IOS T T H E PA
BlueIguanaRestaurant.net
165 S. West Temple • SLC
Below Benihana and across from the Salt Palace
801-533-8900
255 Main St • Park City Treasure Mountain Inn (Top of Main)
435-649-3097
Devour Utah • September 2016 37
Your local park city gastropub
HIDDEN HALF DOZEN
Royal India
WHERE THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING GOING ON DUELING PIANO SHOW FAMILY FRIENDLY, GREAT PRICES
1680 W. UTE BLV KIMBALL JUNCTION, PARK CITY MOLLYBLOOMSGASTROPUB.COM
(435) 645-0844
Lamb Rojan Josh The Shanthakumar family’s Royal India restaurant in Sandy serves up Indian cuisine that’s some of the best in Utah. That’s partly because all the sauces, curries and such are created from scratch, not from pre-bought pastes or powders. House specialties like chicken Madras and lamb rojan josh are stupendous, but so are simpler menu items such as samosas, pakoras and breads like naan, poori, roti and paratha. Service here is always first-rate, and the ambiance is second to none. Beer and wine are available, as are Indian beverages like lassi drinks, masala chai and rose milk. And don’t even think of leaving before you’ve polished off an order of mango mousse cake for dessert.
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38 Devour Utah • September 2016
Royal India 10263 S. 1300 East, Sandy 801-572-6123 RoyalIndiaUtah.com
Devour Utah • September 2016 39
ace Setting the
The importance of timing in restaurant dining By Mollie McConahay-Snider Photos by Niki Chan
W
hy do we eat in restaurants? We do, and with little hesitation. According to the Wall Street Journal, in 2015 Americans spent more money eating out than buying groceries. I’m sure one could point to any number of reasons we choose to dine away from home. If you were to ask me why I go to restaurants, I would likely describe my love of good food and drink, sparkling conversation and people-watching as Reasons 1, 2, and 3. I, like you, absolutely love going out to eat, except when I don’t. And when I don’t, it is usually due to a nagging restaurant predicament that sincerely puzzles me. Our city’s—and virtually every city’s—restaurants have a problem that seems to afflict diners from brewpubs to fine dining and every manner of restaurant in between. It’s a matter of pacing, or more importantly, a lack thereof. Perhaps our local restaurant industry is still trying to shake off the hangover of bygone laws that insisted food and adult beverage service exist only in tandem. Maybe it’s a lack of service training, or understaffed kitchens, overly tasked floor managers, or, simple indifference. Whatever the reason, Salt Lake City dining patrons are 40 Devour Utah • September 2016
getting the bum’s rush. For all the extraordinarily well-paced meals I’ve enjoyed in Salt Lake City, I’ve easily encountered just as many poorly paced efforts. Successful pacing consists of three essential components: timing, preparedness and professionalism. The goal should be to have restaurant guests leave feeling their needs were not only met, but anticipated. In short, a fine dining experience should reflect a seamlessly choreographed dance set to the beat of a classic waltz. Entrées should never arrive before appetizers and first-course plates have been cleared. All necessary utensils should be reset prior to the pending course. Empty beverage, wine and water glasses should be refilled during the meal’s progression. Dining should be like a trip to an art museum: an enjoyable occasion devoted solely to the beauty of the experience. Would you not be annoyed if your museum docent expected you to rush through the exhibit? That is how I feel when I’m experiencing an inadequately paced meal: like I’m being forced to run through the museum. To ease my mind and ensure the art of dining is not a lost luxury, I
Devour Utah • September 2016 41
Perfect placment and preparation
asked two Salt Lake City restaurants that put proper meal pacing at a premium to share their practices. One is an American steakhouse staple, the other an exquisite new Italian neighborhood eatery. Veneto, an exceptional restaurant owned and operated by Amy and Marco Stevanoni located in the Liberty Wells neighborhood on 900 South between 300 and 400 East, strikes a masterful balance of sophisticated dining paired with a harmonious calm that extends from the kitchen to the table. During my time with the charming Stevanonis, they revealed their unwavering commitment to the authentic cuisine of
Amy and Marco stevanoni
42 Devour Utah • September 2016
Marco’s native northern Italy, their Old World approach to eating and dining, and how pacing a meal ultimately plays into its success and provides a memorable dining experience for guests. Marco described their pacing philosophy succinctly: “The meal will be free of awkward lags but never rushed,” he says. “Courses will reach the table only after everyone has finished the previous course, plates have been cleared any and all necessary resets have occurred and all guests are seated.” During my time dining at Veneto, the rhythm of meal was true to Marco’s word. Courses were not crowded, allowing us to enjoy one another’s company while
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Ruth’s Chris Steak House General Manager Josh Cowart
savoring what we had just eaten. The service was elegant and reserved, which added to the overall enjoyment of the delicious meal itself. I left the restaurant, remembering every course, every bite and eagerly anticipating my return. Ruth’s Chris Steak House approaches their pacing like a well-oiled machine. The world-wide chain (although the Salt Lake City restaurant is locally owned and operated) has a rigorous dining system in place that is fueled by extensive training, a commitment to excellence and effortless pacing. The restaurant’s general manager, the undeniably professional and affable Josh Cowart, explains their pacing strategy: “It’s about the customer’s wishes, a six-minute interval clock
system and strong communication between the back and front of house,” he says. “It’s an awesome system.” At Ruth’s Chris, I was encouraged to order from the à la carte menu all at once, and then allow the kitchen and wait staff to pace my meal—an ordering situation I am, at best, uncomfortable with. Ordering as I go is my meal-pacing safety net. Nonetheless, I put my dining experience into my waitperson’s hands, and the result was an expertly paced meal. Just as Josh had promised, the meal ran like clockwork. From the time I sat down and was greeted, to the time I paid my tab, I was never rushed, servers were always courteous and service beautifully handled.
Veneto is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday evenings. Ruth’s Chris is open seven nights a week. Both restaurants accept reservations but also welcome walk-in patrons. Additionally, Veneto and Ruth’s Chris Steak House are available for private event bookings. ❖
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44 Devour Utah • September 2016
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OLD DOGS, NEW TRICKS
Pre-Prohibitiontechniquesforthehomebar Bydarbydoyle•PhotosBycarolinehargraves
he current cocktail scene—even and especially in Utah— is bursting with creativity and complexity. Craft distillers have resurrected pre-Prohibition recipes long thought to be extinct, bartenders are experimenting with housemade amari and inventive infusions, and the
46 46Devour DevourUtah Utah••September September2016 2016
small-batch bitters market is booming. All of this generates some good gravy for booze geeks itching to tackle these techniques at home, now having unprecedented access to both ingredients and information for raising the level of our home bar moxie to big coastal levels of hipness. Here are four
old-school techniques that sound super fancy when you see them on an upscale bar menu, but are actually a snap to pull off at home with show-stopping results. Mix ‘em up and be prepared for all the oohs and ahhs your friends will be throwing your way at your next cocktail party.
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Oleo Saccharum
O
leo saccharum, aka “oil sugar,” is the bartender’s boon for building concentrated citrus flavors. Add this secret ingredient to your home bar arsenal to make a homemade sour mix that will beat out anything you’ve ever seen poured out of a plastic bottle. It’s the historical base for punch recipes used by saloonkeepers since the early American Republic. Plan ahead: this multi-day process needs some resting time to release all of the goodness and zing of the citrus oils from the fruit zest, which then gets made into a light citrus syrup to balance the fruit/acid/sugar for a superlative sour mix. One quart of oleo saccharum syrup mixed with three bottles of bourbon, three bottles of sparkling wine and some spices of your choice (think nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves) over a decorative ice ring makes enough potent punch for 40-50 people. Or, keep it in the fridge and use it to make the whiskey or amaretto sours of your dreams. Here’s a take adapted from the definitive document on the subject, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl, by drink historian David Wondrich. It’s my personal favorite prescription for the historic method, and also the basic formula used by barman extraordinaire Scott Gardner of Water Witch fame to make a High West Prairie Bourbon Punch.
Cocktail: New York Sour
The classic whiskey sour gets jazzed up a bit with this preProhibition adaptation featuring a signature pretty red wine floater in the glass, and a tip that a Pallet barman extraordinaire once shared with me: Add a touch of amaretto to the drink to smooth out the spice of rye and sour of lemon. An egg white added to the shaker pumps up the body and volume of the drink, but may be left out with equally delicious results. Makes one cocktail. 1.5 ounces rye whiskey 0.5 ounce amaretto 1.5 ounces oleo sacchrum (or more to taste) 1 egg white 0.75 ounce dry red wine Combine all ingredients except wine in a shaker without ice and shake for 15 seconds until the egg white emulsifies with the citrus. Add a big handful of ice and shake for additional 15 seconds until chilled. Strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice. Pour the wine slowly over the back of a spoon to layer on top.
Method: Oleo Saccharum syrup
48 Devour Utah • September 2016
(Makes 1 quart) Prepare oleo saccharum (“oil sugar”) by completely removing zest (just the peels without any white parts) of 6 large juicy lemons. Place all of the whole peeled lemons in a zip-top bag (to keep them from drying out) in the refrigerator to finish the project later. In a big bowl, combine the lemon peels with 1 cup demerara or raw turbinado sugar. Stir to combine and smash peels a bit with the back of a wooden spoon to grind in the sugar. Lightly cover with plastic wrap, and move to a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Every time you remember (every 3-4 hours or so), stir and smash the sugar and peels some more. Do this for at least 24 hours and up to two days. You’ll eventually have a nice pool of lemony, oily, syrupy goodness in your bowl of curly lemon peels. To this bowl of goop, add juice from all of the reserved peeled lemons and let sit for an additional 8-12 hours. Stir well, then strain out solids through a fine mesh strainer. Pour the lemon syrup into a quart jar and add enough cold water to fill the jar. Refrigerate up to four weeks. Shake well before using. Boom!
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Raspberry Shrub
L
ong before refrigerators and reliable canning methods, shrubs gave folks a burst of summer fruit flavor to enhance a winter diet filled with root vegetables and dried everything else. Slow Food U.S.A. claims on their “Ark of Taste” that the word “shrub” comes from the Arabic word sharab (“to drink”). Back in the day, shrubs got mixed in with hot water and brandy or rum to make flavorful toddies in the winter, or with colder equivalents in the summer to make the perfect sweet-tart refresher. Nowadays, you’ll see bartenders breaking out custom shrubs all over the place, using everything from snap peas to exotic melon. But they’re dead easy to make at home by combining equal parts fruit, sweet (sugar, honey, agave) and acid (usually vinegar), essentially pickling the fruit in syrup to make a refreshing tart tonic. They’re wonderful in cocktails, and make a delightful nonalcoholic spritzer when added to club soda, as in the recipe below. Many shrub recipes call for boiling the fruit with the vinegar and sugar (which makes for a jam-like flavor and consistency), but I prefer the clarity of fruit flavor achieved by the cold shrub method.
Mocktail: Shake Your Razz
This is a festive no-alcohol mocktail for fall tailgating: Before you leave home, just add all the ingredients except the ice and club soda to as many Mason jars as you’ll be serving up, rack them back up in the box the jars came in for transport, then have your guests shake their own when they meet you at the parking lot. To make a boozy version, decrease black tea to 1.5 ounces and add a generous glug of bourbon from your flask. Makes one mocktail. To a pint Mason jar add: 2-3 basil leaves 3-4 dashes Peychaud’s bitters 1.5 ounces raspberry-Champagne vinegar shrub 3 ounces black sun tea 1 ounce club soda Fill jar almost to the top with ice (and add whiskey if that’s your thing), screw on the lid, and shake it like crazy. Fill with more ice, and add a splash of club soda to the top. Serve with a straw.
Method: Raspberry & Champagne Vinegar Shrub (Makes about two cups)
To a large, non-reactive bowl add: 12 ounces fresh raspberries 1½ cups fine granulated sugar 10 ounces (1¼ cups) Champagne vinegar (7 percent acid) Cover lightly (do not seal entirely) with plastic wrap and place in a cool (less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit) spot, or the refrigerator. Macerate for 48-72 hours, stirring every few hours. Strain through a fine mesh strainer to remove seeds, and pour into a clean glass or ceramic jar. Refrigerate (up to 5 weeks) until ready for use.
50 Devour Utah • September 2016
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Devour Utah • September 2016 51
Beer Syrup
s
imple syrup, that familiar 1-1 ratio of sugar dissolved into water, has been a staple in the bartender’s arsenal since long before someone shook up the first primordial julep. Infused syrups—featuring fruit, spices, fresh herbs, even tobacco and gunpowder—have been showing up on bar menus for decades. Shake up the usual protocol by reducing fruit juice, wine or, yes, even beer, which all yield some delightful concentrate concoctions with intense flavor elements. Surprisingly, reducing beer mellows (rather than intensifies) many bitter and hoppy qualities, especially once a bit of sugar is added to the brew— but the essential quality of the beer shines through. In my case, it was a perfect experiment for using up a big quart bottle of excellent beer that was accidently left to go warm and flat on the kitchen counter overnight (cue sad trombone). The resulting cocktail debuted at an autumnal chocolate-themed party last year using the beer syrup; the flavors of apple, chocolate and coffee really hit the spot on a blustery eve.
Cocktail: The Fall Fandango (Makes one cocktail)
1.5 ounces white rum (Sugar House Distillery Silver Rum) 0.75 ounce Laird’s Applejack 0.75 ounce chocolate-coffee stout syrup 0.5 ounce Pok Pok apple sipping vinegar 2 dashes cardamom bitters 2 dashes chocolate bitters A tiny splash of seltzer To a mixing glass filled with ice, add all ingredients. Stir for 50 revolutions. Strain into a highball glass over a large ice cube infused with some cacao nibs (about 1/4 teaspoon per cube). Splash in a teaspoon or two of seltzer to fill the glass. Garnish with thin apple slices. Drizzle apple slices with a little more of the beer syrup.
52 Devour Utah • September 2016
METHOD: Beer Syrup on page 56
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Beer Syrup Method:
(Makes about two cups)
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To a heavy non-reactive saucepan add 2 cups Epic Brewing’s Big Bad Baptist—a stout beer made with cacao and coffee and finished in whiskey barrels. (I know, it seems a shame to make syrup out of this amazing beer, but it’s worth it!) Bring the beer to a slight boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low, stirring often to prevent scorching. Simmer until the beer is reduced by half (about 30 minutes). Remove from the heat, and cool for about 5-10 minutes at room temp. Add 1 cup raw (turbinado or demerara) sugar and keep stirring until all the sugar is dissolved. Cool completely to room temp, pour the syrup into a lidded jar and refrigerate until ready to use. It’ll keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge.
Spruce Tip & Ginger Tonic Concentrate Method:
(Makes one quart)
To a large non-reactive pot, add: 3 limes, juiced 1 cup cinchona bark (not powder) 1 cup food grade citric acid powder 1 cup apple juice 1 cup fresh lemongrass 1 teaspoon black pepper 5 cups water 1 teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg Bring to boil, simmer over medium heat (170 degrees Fahrenheit) for about 20 minutes, or until solution is reduced by half. Remove from heat. Add to the pot: 1/2 cup fresh grated ginger 1 cup spruce tips 1½-2 cups granulated sugar (test by taste, should not be overly tart or overly sweet) Let tonic sit overnight in a cooler while the spruce and ginger flavors steep into the mixture. Strain tonic through a triple layer of cheesecloth into a clean container to remove all solids; further strain through a coffee filter, if desired, for improved clarity.
Cocktail & Description
54 Devour Utah • September 2016
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mandarinutah.com Devour Utah • September 2016 55
Quinine Tonic Water
f
ew cocktails define warm-weather sipping quite like the gin and tonic, a beverage mixed in the tropics by British colonists to make the bitter taste of antimalarial quinine hidden in tonic water more palatable—and its drinkers predictably more sanguine at the same time. Although we’re used to seeing tonic water in a clear, carbonated, conveniently canned concoction—Schweppes developed it commercially for U.S. markets in 1953— many artisan and housemade tonic waters are slightly almond-tinged due to their extraction from cinchona bark, which (get out your black lights and velvet paintings for this one) also has fluorescent qualities. But be careful, ye experimental alcohol astronauts at home: Too much quinine can actually cause symptoms like ear-ringing, rashes and—in really severe cases of cinchonism—muscle spasms, vertigo of the extremely vigorous variety and (understatement here) epic intestinal inconsistency. You can totally MacGyver a sealable-bottled version with a canister of CO2 for your shelf—as O.P. Rockwell’s badass bartender Chris Panarelli did for his now-legendary Negroni sodas last June—or do as the fine folks at Finca have devised, making a quinine tonic concentrate and then adding carbonation and volume in the form of neutral soda water mixed in on the spot just before serving. One sip of their fall-inspired spruce-tip tonic will convince you that G&Ts aren’t just for summer sipping.
56 Devour Utah • September 2016
Cocktail: Finca’s Gin & SpruceTip Ginger Tonic 1.5 ounces Plymouth Gin 0.75 ounce tonic concentrate 2-3 ounces club soda water
To a rocks glass filled with ice, add gin and tonic, stir briefly to combine. Add club soda to rim of glass, stir gently to combine. Top with spruce tip and grated nutmeg. Recipe and technique from Natalie Hamilton at Finca (FincaSLC.com)
Devour Utah • September 2016 57
Dine How To
Dos and Don’ts for restaurant diners By Vanessa Chang
When it comes to dining out, we consider the usual components: food, service and ambience. But there’s one factor not often taken into consideration: the diner. As a culture, we’re eating out more often than ever. Yet, like home economics or personal finance, there’s really no institutional guidance on how to go about it. So we make messes, we’re jerks— sometimes totally unaware of our own behavior. And so, I humbly offer this bit of insight on how to dine.
1. Try everything. That’s how you expand your culinary horizons and develop your palate. And chances are there’s a reason why chefs curate the menu and each plate the way they do. Maybe they worked in some badass kitchens around the world and got some incredible techniques under their belt. Maybe they came across some amazing mushroom that was around for only two weeks a year and a few of them ended up in their kitchen.
2. An aversion is not an allergy. People can die from food allergies. Your preferences or aversions, on the other hand, won’t kill you. Don’t pretend it will.
3. Be reasonable with substitutions and requests for them. Asking to sub out the roasted cauliflower for a bit of steak is a dickish move. Also, see No. 1.
4. Social media is not a weapon. Crowd-sourced information is great. It can be helpful to diners. Restaurants can get a nice bump from a Facebook checkin or #FoodPorn post on Instagram. But lording over a negative Yelp review is the modern-day equivalent of snitching to your mom. To restaurants: Stop empowering diners who do. Let them have their soapbox and concentrate on improving your food or service.
5. You are not The Almighty. There are some restaurants that, for the life of me, I cannot understand why they’re so popular. But you know what? My tastes don’t dictate whether someone else might totally dig it. Tastes are subjective. Yes, there’s technique involved, but don’t diss a place or a dish because you don’t like 58 Devour Utah • September 2016
cheese and you ordered creamy pasta with cheese. There’s a difference between not liking a dish because it’s not your thing versus it being poorly executed.
6. Don’t expect a freebie every time you’re unhappy. If clothes shopping worked that way, I’d have a free wardrobe by now. Either provide feedback or don’t go back. It’s as simple as that.
7. Be nice, even when you have to complain. You were patient with that 30-minute wait between apps and entrées. But that meant 30 more excruciating minutes with your insufferable server. Throwing a tantrum makes you look just as bad as the rude staff. Ask for a manager. Calmly tell them about the problem and where they can improve. Good restaurants and staff will respond graciously to calm feedback and take note on how to improve. Bad restaurants might give you even more attitude, but then you know where not to go back.
8. Keep dining. As a diner, you’re not only enjoying, but you’re exploring, both the restaurant scene and your own tastes. To paraphrase one Captain Picard, our job as the eaters is “To seek out new dishes and new restaurants, to boldly go where no [Utahn] has gone before.” ❖ Vanessa Chang
Devour Utah • September 2016 59
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