Devour July 2016

vol. 2 no. 5 • July 2016 • Get Fresh

Hell’s Backbone Grill p. 18 Marvelous Mint p. 34 Absinthe Cocktails p. 42

It’s time to

Get

Fresh

Floral Flavors p. 28 Devour Utah • July 2016 1

2 Devour Utah • July 2016

Devour Utah • July 2016 3

Contents The natural state for palatable plates

BY AMANDA ROCK

The Spread

Tiburon fine dining

BY AIMEE L. COOK

Hell’s Backbone Grill A friendly oasis of fresh flavors

BY DARBY DOYLE

The Deconstruct

Reef’s restaurant and gallery

BY KATIE ELDRIDGE

Floral Flavors

Culinary flowers on the plate and palate

BY HEATHER L. KING

Marvelous Mint

Dos, don’ts, hows and whys of magical mint

BY REBECCA ORY-HERNANDEZ

La Fée Vert

Absinthe cocktails for summer sipping

BY MOLLIE MCCONAHAY-SNIDER

Fresh Start

Can a New Yorker find happiness in the Beehive?

BY MICHAEL FELDMAN

4 Devour Utah • July 2016

JOHN TAYLOR

10 14 18 26 28 34 42 50

Fresh Fare

Devour Utah • July 2016 5

DEVOUR CONTRIBUTORS STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Editorial Staff Contributors

Photographers

TED SCHEFFLER ANDREA HARVEY, LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, KATIE ELDRIDGE, MICHAEL FELDMAN, HEATHER L. KING, MOLLIE MCCONAHAY-SNIDER, REBECCA ORYHERNANDEZ, AMANDA ROCK DEREK CARLISLE, NIKI CHAN, DARBY DOYLE, KATIE ELDRIDGE, REBECCA ORYHERNANDEZ, HEATHER L. KING, ACE KVALE, TED SCHEFFLER, JOHN TAYLOR

Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCOLLECTIVE contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at aBourbonGal.com.

Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists

DEREK CARLISLE MASON RODRICKC SUMMER MONTGOMERY, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, CAIT LEE

Business/Office Accounting Manager Associate Business Manager Office Administrator Technical Director Business Dept. Administrator

CODY WINGET PAULA SALTAS CELESTE NELSON BRYAN MANNOS ALISSA DIMICK

Heather L. King writes about food, travel and culture in Utah and beyond. She is the founder of Utah Ladies Who Lunch and a proud Great Dane owner.

Marketing Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator

JACKIE BRIGGS NICOLE ENRIGHT

Circulation Circulation Manager

LARRY CARTER

Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives

Rebecca Ory-Hernandez is a freelance writer, home cook and artist who lives (and gardens) in Ogden.

JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER JEFF CHIPIAN, JEREMIAH SMITH, MICHELLE PINO, SIERRA SESSIONS, LISA DORELLI, TYSON ROGERS

Cover Photo: Seared Scallops at Tiberon by Niki Chan Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com

Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2016. All rights reserved

6 Devour Utah • July 2016

Born and raised in Indianapolis, Ind., Mollie McConahay-Snider relocated to the Pacific Northwest following college. After a decade of working in the Oregon wine industry, Mollie earned her Le Cordon Bleu culinary arts degree from Portland’s Western Culinary Institute. A former chef at Salt Lake Culinary Center, Mollie is now a freelance food and beverage writer, performs cooking demonstrations around Salt Lake City and is currently completing her first book.

Craft Cocktails, Beer, & Food | Live Music Friday & Saturday NOW SERVING BRUNCH! www.goodgrammar.bar | 69 E. Gallivan Ave | 385-415-5002

Devour Utah • July 2016 7

EXPLORE CHILI BEAK

A Utah Original Chili Oil

Refresher Courses

W

ith the summer season in mind, this issue of Devour Utah is dedicated to the many ways we can “get fresh.” Now, I have to admit that the phrase “get fresh” causes me to cringe a little. I mean, literally cringe.

It’s a muscle memory reflex from when I was a smart-mouth kid and my mom would say “Don’t you get fresh with me, Theodore Linn!” just prior to whacking me upside the head. But, I’m a trained professional. And so, I’ve vanquished my parental demons and managed to assemble an issue of Devour devoted to fresh ideas.

Flowers are lovely to look at, but Heather L. King peers behind the petals to investigate how chefs are using edible flowers not just as garnishes but as key components in their restaurant dishes. Rebecca Ory-Hernandez takes us on a minty voyage ranging from mojitos to mint chocolate with a primer on how to grow mint, how to use mint, the health benefits of mint—in short, everything you ever wanted to know about the aromatic plant.

If there is a better Utah restaurant than Hell’s Backbone Grill in Boulder, I’ve yet to find it. Darby Doyle completely captures the spirit, vitality and neighborly ways behind Jen Castle’s and Blake Spalding’s beloved eatery—a dining destination brimming with good vibes and fantastically fresh flavors.

Made in part from fresh herbs and spices, absinthe is the liqueur of the moment and Mollie McConahay-Snider takes us on a tour of some of our city’s best absinthe-based cocktails. And in our back-page essay, Feldman’s Deli owner Michael Feldman—a transplanted East Coaster—reveals a few of the local restaurants that have refreshed and revised his notions of Beehive cuisine.

We all need a fresh start now and again; I hope this issue of Devour Utah will spark some fresh ideas for you. ❖ —Ted Scheffler Editor

FIND US AT

Jen Gilroy plates petals at Meditrina

downtown farmers market park silly sunday market liberty heights fresh caputos harmons whole foods www.chilibeak.com

8 Devour Utah • July 2016

JOHN TAYLOR

DISCOVER MORE AT:

Devour Utah • July 2016 9

Fare fresh

Ravishing raw foods for the freshest flavors

BY AMANDA ROCK

Burrata $ .00 12 10 Devour Utah • July 2016

Burrata Burrata is a mixture of fresh mozzarella and cream; it’s fresh cheese at its best. This appetizer is an impressive starting point to a wonderful meal at Salt Lake’s newest (and loveliest) Italian restaurant, Stanza. The mellow flavor of the cheese is accentuated with crisp salted crostini and a hearty relish of fava beans and peppers; a drizzle of olive oil and fresh basil are the perfect finishing touches. The elegant take on cheese and crackers is a pleasure to enjoy while you take in Stanza’s menu and extensive wine list.

Stanza Italian Bistro and Wine Bar 454 E. 300 South Salt Lake City 801-746-4441 StanzaSLC.com

TED SCHEFFLER

I

t doesn’t get fresher than these four dishes. Plucked out of the sea or fresh from the farm, these uncooked treats are so full of flavor that they only need the simplest preparation to perk up the palate.

DEREK CARLISLE

Tenderloin Carpaccio $ .00 8

Tenderloin Carpaccio This small plate from the bar menu at Fleming’s is offered nightly from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. It’s an impressive display of thinly sliced raw tenderloin topped with a generous drizzle of tangy Creole mustard sauce and a sprinkling of pungent capers.

Grated hard-boiled egg, sweet red onion and shredded basil add layers of robust flavor. Served with a generous portion of sourdough toast covered in melted cheese, this small plate looks more like an entrée. A dirty vodka martini is the ideal accompaniment to this sophisticated fresh dish.

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar 20 S. 400 West Salt Lake City 801-355-3704 FlemingsSteakhouse.com

Devour Utah • July 2016 11

Poke Bowl

Poke Bowl $ .50 11

Laid Back Poke Shack has introduced Salt Lake to this traditional Hawaiian dish pronounced “poh-kay.” If Hawaii is out of the budget, you can take a quick trip to a strip mall in Holladay to enjoy the distinctive dish made with chunks of marinated sushigrade fish served over rice.

Pick your poke in three steps: Choose white or brown rice, opt in or out for cabbage and select one or two types of poke.

There are plenty of varieties, but you can’t go wrong with spicy ahi, shoyu ahi or ginger ahi. Flavorful, light and delectable, poke is summer in a bowl.

DEREK CARLISLE

JOHN TAYLOR

Laid Back Poke Shack 6213 S. Highland Drive Holladay 801-635-8190

Fresh Oysters $ .00 ea 3 12 Devour Utah • July 2016

Fresh Oysters Kimi’s Chop and Oyster House in Sugar House has been luring customers with their upscale seafood offerings and sleek décor since opening. With a selection of East and West Coast oysters priced at $3 each, it’s a decadence indulgence.

Served with a mignonette du jour, housemade cocktail sauce or simply slurped with fresh lemon, fresh oysters are the simplest way to enjoy the briny flavors of the sea. Add a few oysters to your lunch or dinner, or make an entire meal of the succulent delicacies.

Kimi’s Chop and Oyster House 2155 S. Highland Drive Salt Lake City 801-946-2079 KimisHouse.com

Flowers, Gifts & Gallery You’ve just got to come in!

1344 S. 2100 E. | 801.521.4773 everybloomingthing.com Devour Utah • July 2016 13

The

pread S

Seared scallops with tomato cream sauce 14 Devour Utah • July 2016

TIBURON Fine Dining Homegrown produce takes center stage

F

or the past 16 years, restaurant chef and owner Ken Rose has stayed true to his premise of fine dining. Tiburon, his flagship restaurant, is known as a specialoccasion place. Whether it’s a romantic dinner for two or a small, intimate wedding reception on the quaint back patio, Rose offers a culinary experience of creativity, freshness and excellence.

Twelve years ago, Rose decided to utilize the open space behind the restaurant and cultivated a quarter-acre of garden space, making use of every inch. Each year, the garden gets bigger and he tries to plant something new or different, but his staples are 10-12 varieties of heirloom tomatoes, roughly about 130 plants.

Bite-size Sun Sugar tomatoes are his personal favorites, and you will find them throughout his summer menus, but his Caprese salad was the real reason for the garden.

“This year, we are going to plant some lettuces. I don’t usually grow lettuce because I would never be able to grow enough—I just use so much of it. But I want to try some butter lettuce and other varieties that I like,” Rose says.

In addition to his large crop of tomatoes, he plants carrots, beets, strawberries, blackberries, kale, spinach, summer squash, zucchini, patty pan squash and baby onions. Rose uses six different vegetables on every plate as a side dish. He found that by giving folks a variety, they are bound to like at least some.

Fresh herbs also abound: mint, parsley, chives, oregano, rosemary and 50-60 basil plants. Tiburon is notorious for their herb butter, which is crafted with fresh herbs from the garden and served year-round. The seared scallops with a chunky tomato cream sauce and his crab cakes simmered with tomatoes are also ongoing menu favorites During the summer and early fall; Rose will offer several different menu specials employing his homegrown produce. Be sure to try the fresh halibut, which is plated on a bed of fresh, sautéed kale and beets with a carrot juice reduction. ❖

Fresh halibut

Tiburon Fine Dining 8256 S. 700 East, Sandy 801-255-1200 TiburonFineDining.com —By Aimee L. Cook Photos by Niki Chan

Valerie and Ken Rose

Devour Utah • July 2016 15

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Boulder’s happy place

NOURISHING BODY & SOUL THE

18 Devour Utah • July 2016

DARBY DOYLE

Hell’s Backbone Bridge in Boulder, Utah

DARBY DOYLE

T

Dining with a measure of grace

By Darby Doyle

here’s something magical going on in Boulder, Utah (pop. 222), with the enchantment epicenter sited squarely at Hell’s Backbone Grill. Famous for its remoteness and isolation, Boulder serves as host to one of Utah’s consistently highest-rated restaurants, run by chefowners Jen Castle and Blake Spalding. Sure, the food is dependably delightful and annually gains applause from state, national and international critics. But the true character of Hell’s Backbone Grill shines directly from Castle and Spalding’s immersion in this simultaneously hard-scrabble and spectacular place as both inspiration for, and source of, many of their culinary ingredients.

It’s not a new concept—the support for all things fresh, local and sustainable. But 17 summers ago, when Castle and Spalding started Hell’s Backbone Grill—named after the nearby engineering wonder of a narrow and precarious bridge built in the 1930s—this type of place-based intentionality was considered cutting edge. And in a town as remote and rugged as Boulder, well nigh impossible. They started out sourcing from gardens in their own yard, and in 2005 built a 6.5-acre farm to support and supply the Grill. Whereas some restaurants have brought local-first ingredient sourcing to “Portlandia” levels of spoof-worthy pretension and humorless vehemence, Castle and Spalding have long served up their mission of regional integrity with big dollop of irrepressible joy. That their undeniable legacy of hard work has been imbued with grace, humor and an infectious element of glee is what makes Hell’s Backbone Grill a true dining destination.

And, it’s undeniably delicious. At HBG, the seasonally changing menus emphasize comfortable and familiar ingredients prepared with panache. Much to the delight of my 11-yearold son, there’s even a kid’s menu, underlying the fact that Castle and Spalding’s food remains

Devour Utah • July 2016 19

HBG Gardens

20 Devour Utah • July 2016

JEN CASTLE

TED SCHEFFLER

Organic oatmeal

DARBY DOYLE

“Our mission is to make people happy.”

DARBY DOYLE

Jen Castle and Blake Spalding

elementally accessible to all guests, regardless of age or ingredient restrictions. “This is so important to us,” Says Spalding. “Our whole mission is to make people happy.” In this gracious and warm space, blazer-wearing European tourists dine next to local ranchers in pressed jeans, spiffily suited cyclists and dusty high-desert backpackers eager for a meal they don’t have to cook themselves. But you won’t find fussy foams or compressed sous-vide preparations here. What you will find are beautiful, fresh ingredients and bold flavors representative of Castle and Spalding’s years immersed in the sensuous, spicy, savory palate of the Southwest, all presented with care and skill.

On a blustery March evening just a week after the restaurant opened for the season, my family of four began our meal with a simple trio of beverage, soup and bread. However, at Hell’s Backbone Grill, that elemental triumvirate of comfort was elevated to nourish both the body and soul. A High West Prairie Bourbon hot toddy was soothing and fragrant with fresh sage and local honey. Lamb pozole perfectly balanced rich fat and complex spice to rib-sticking satisfaction. Impossibly crumbly-yet-succulent buttery biscuits made my whole family’s eyes widen with wonder.

Since that visit, I’ve been persuaded by my boys to swap out my own biscuit recipe for Jen Castle’s ethereal soda and black pepper-studded squares, published in the Grill’s first cookbook, With a Measure of Grace. As a gal who spent her formative baking years in the mid-South, I have definite opinions about biscuits, but have gladly ceded to Castle’s superiority on the subject of pastry with delicious results. My little guy leaned over to me at one point during our HBG dinner and said, “This is the best quesadilla I’ve ever had.” Blake Spalding overheard us and conspiratorially whispered to him with a twinkle in her eyes, “We fry them in butter. It makes everything better.” We enjoyed local beef slow-braised with root vegetables from the farm down the road soaking into marjoram-flecked polenta, and meatloaf sauced with a zesty remoulade-like drizzle had us humming with pleasure. Elegant pots de crème rich with dark chocolate

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TED SCHEFFLER

Zuni sweet potato skillet cakes

TED SCHEFFLER

DARBY DOYLE

“It’s right up there with Chez Panisse.”

and a “kiss of Chimayo chile” to balance the fresh whipped cream rounded out the night—simple food, made superlatively, imbued with love. Perhaps there’s a bit of fairy dust added to the butter that makes it so much better, but until we know for sure, we’ll blindly trust that anything sent our way from the open kitchen’s pass-through will be magically delicious.

“Hell’s Backbone isn’t just my favorite Utah restaurant, it’s one of my favorites anywhere—right up there with Chez Panisse,” says Devour’s editor and Utah-based food critic Ted Scheffler.

Fortunately for those of us who can’t make this type of culinary bucket-list trek regularly, HBG published the previously mentioned cookbook with that bodacious biscuit recipe in 2004, and they are in the process of finishing edits for volume two, This Immeasurable Place. Castle and Spalding are excited to share 60 new recipes and “a zillion gorgeous images of Boulder and our glorious farm, plus more stories, history and insight into the magic of Hell’s Backbone Grill and the unique town we call home,” says Spalding. This volume is truly a labor of love, and has been a long time in the making, according to the authors. They’re pleased to share more of their story about “clean food, good dirt and food justice in both the quiet little valley and the larger world.”

The middle of nowhere? Maybe. But for adventurers of the outdoor and culinary variety, Hell’s Backbone Grill just may be the center of everything. ❖

22 Devour Utah • July 2016

DARBY DOYLE

Hell’s Backbone Grill 20 N. Highway 12 Boulder, UT 435-335-7464 HellsBackboneGrill.com Hell's Backbone Grill's new cookbook, This Immeasurable Place, will be published this fall.

Pre-orders can be placed for author-autographed copies at HellsBackboneGrill.com.

Devour Utah • July 2016 23

ACE KVALE

Hell’s Backbone Grill

HBG’s Springtime Carrot Soup with Chive Oil Ingredients:

¼ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon minced chives 1 tablespoon butter ¼ cup diced celery 1 cup diced onion 4 cups chopped carrots 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup basmati rice 1 cup heavy cream ¼ cup white wine 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon vanilla ¼ teaspoon fine black pepper ½ teaspoon salt

For chive oil:

In a blender, blend olive oil with minced chives and a pinch of salt for 30 seconds, until oil is green and smooth; alternately, muddle chives with the olive oil in the bottom of a plastic measuring cup. Either way, we like to let it steep for an hour, then strain, discarding (by compost) chive solids.

24 Devour Utah • July 2016

For soup:

Melt butter in 4-quart pot. Sizzle the veggies, garlic and rice 5 minutes on medium heat, stirring occasionally with wooden spoon, until onion has softened.

Add 4 cups of filtered water to the pot and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer, with lid on and cocked so steam may escape, 25 minutes, until carrots are tender. Check halfway through and add 1 cup more water if needed.

Then add: heavy cream, white wine, ground cumin, vanilla, black pepper and salt.

Cook 15 minutes more on medium-low heat, stirring occasionally.

Let soup cool 20 minutes and purée in the pot with an immersion blender. You may need to add another cup of water to help blend the soup to a medium weight (where it is just thick enough to coat the back of spoon, but not pudding-thick.)

To serve: This soup is tasty hot or cold. Drizzle a little chive oil on top and a sprinkling of edible flowers like chive blossoms or bachelor buttons.

Makes six 8-ounce servings.

We use the sweetest little heirloom carrots we can find for this golden soup, which pops with a drizzle of the bright-green chive oil floating on top.

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The

Reef’s

Coconut Chicken Schnitzel I

n the early 1990s in Tel Aviv, Israeli cuisine began to take on some Japanese influences which, in turn, have found their way onto the menu of Reef’s Restaurant & Gallery in Park City.

“My mom started using panko instead of breadcrumbs when she made chicken schnitzel,” explains Reef’s owner and chef, Asi Yoked. “I ended up adding shredded coconut to the mix a few years later.” This family recipe has been on Reef’s menu since its opening in 2005. From that time, this family-owned business has thrived on Park City’s lower Main Street, offering traditional Israeli and Mediterranean cuisine.

26 Devour Utah • July 2016

710 Main St., Park City 435-658-0323 ReefsRestaurant.com

The Coconut Chicken Schnitzel is as simple as it is delicious, with a short list of ingredients including lemon, shredded coconut, flour, egg, panko breadcrumbs and boneless, skinless chicken breasts.

“I was inspired at an early age by my mother and grandmother’s cooking,” says Yoked. That family inspiration continues at Reef’s, a restaurant named after Asi and Tali Yoked’s son, Reef, who celebrates his 12th birthday this fall.

During your next visit, peruse the extensive Israeli wine selection, and if you choose the schnitzel, Asi recommends pairing it with the Binyamina Reserve Sauvignon Blanc from Galilee. ❖ Devour • July 2016 27 Text and photos byUtah Katie Eldridge

Edible Embellishments 28 Devour Utah • July 2016

Floral flavors on your plate

By Heather L. King

W

Paula Swaner Sargetakis

hether you’re wowed by Courtney McDowell’s Meyer lemon tartlets topped with violas and nasturtium leaves at Pallet restaurant, or charmed by the fresh chive blossoms garnishing the rapanaki dako at Manoli’s, edible flowers are in full bloom at restaurants across the state.

Frog Bench Farms owner Paula Swaner Sargetakis, who supplies borage, nasturtium, violas, geranium and calendula to many dining establishments in Utah year-round, says that demand for edible flowers doubles yearly and the farm still sells out every week.

“We see more and more edible flowers around and enjoy learning about all the ways the chefs use them,” says Sargetakis, who grew up eating raw, candied and puréed flowers and sees chefs’ demand for them as nothing unusual. “We started with edible flowers from the very beginning because we enjoy the way they pop on the plate and the delicate flavor added to the foods.”

To date, their most popular request is nasturtium, along with borage and violas. “Nasturtium is so popular because not only is the flower used by the chefs but the leaves as well.”

What’s more, it’s even good for you— offering high levels of vitamins A, C and D. Seasonally, Frog Bench Farms also sells snapdragon, bachelor’s button (cornflower), hyssop and herb flowers from spring to fall, along with flowers from squash, lavender, arugula, parsley and thyme.

What gorgeous surprises of floral color and flavor are being judiciously applied in your favorite kitchen this season?

Devour Utah • July 2016 29

Double Calendula

"We use edible flowers almost every day."

—Tyler

Jen Gilroy of Meditrina prepares for a flower salad.

30 Devour Utah • July 2016

Bachelor Button-Bee

Zest Kitchen & Bar Zest owner Casey Staker regularly uses edible flowers from Frog Bench Farms and other secretly sourced Stokes locations as an extension of the restaurant’s concept of healthy and organic eating. Flowers, he says, give “great presentation and color, and, depending on the flower, a burst of added flavor.” Look for nasturtiums, borage, orchids and calendulas on any number of menu items at Zest. The Thai sunrise coconut curry dish delivers a gorgeous mix of sesame stirfried vegetables bathed in coconut yellow curry sauce, complemented by fragrant forbidden rice. It’s garnished with a beautiful orchid—a stunning touch to a palate-pleasing dish.

Les Madeleines While Les Madeleines is best known for the rich and buttery kouing aman that chef and owner Romina Rasmussen turns out by the dozens every day, she utilizes edible flowers “to accent items that have floral flavors … pastries with rose, orange blossom and coquelicot (poppy blossom). I like how they look and can be used to enhance flavors.” Look for rose petals around Valentine’s Day, violets in early spring on Meyer lemon desserts and others depending upon what’s growing in her garden.

Provisions Provisions’ modern American menu is primarily crafted by the season and availability of regional and sustainable ingredients— which even includes flowers. “We use edible flowers from Frog Bench Farms almost every day,” explains Tyler Stokes, chef and owner of Provisions. Seasonal selections include violets dotting a halibut dish with asparagus broth and preserved lemon while borage pairs up with trout roe and spring peas.

Vernal Brewing Co. Located on the northeastern border of Utah, Vernal Brewing Co. is fond of using edible flowers on their dishes, according to owner Ginger Bowden. The marigolds and nasturtium grown in the raised garden beds next to the restaurant serve a dual purpose—keeping bugs away from the other produce growing in the garden, as well as adorning dishes. Try the tangy citrus salmon entrée glazed with sweet ginger soy that’s paired with fresh garden vegetables and garnished with a pansy or marigold.

SOAK UP THE SUMMER ON THE PATIO!

TONA SUSHI BAR AND GRILL tonarestaurant.com 2013-2016

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210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi Devour Utah • July 2016 31

Dianthus Meditrina & Porch Jennifer Gilroy, chef and owner of Meditrina and Porch restaurants, uses edible flowers seasonally—many of which are grown in the garden surrounding Meditrina. The flower salad highlights nasturtium greens and blossoms, pansies, arugula and a chiffonade of young sorrel. Other floral embellishments found on the menu include chive blossoms for a hint of sour and earthy flavors, and a dressing of lavender shallot vinaigrette. “I started using edible flowers simply because I loved the idea of it,” she says. “The more

Yellow Nasturtium

Meditrina's Flower Salad experience I have had with tasting different flowers and buds, the more it has developed into a flavor thing.”

Hell’s Backbone Grill “Jen and I have been growing and incorporating edible flowers into our savory and sweet dishes since we opened 16 years ago,” explains Hell's Backbone Grill co-owner Blake Spalding. “We grow edible flowers at our farm and even forage from the wild flowers that grow here in abundance.”

Spalding, along with co-owner Jen Castle, are adamant that flowers play an essential role in their lives

Delicious Food, Great Atmosphere!

as restaurateurs—they have become their signature. At the restaurant in Boulder, Utah, you’ll find everything from nasturtium, pansy, marigold, chrysanthemum, violet, borage, rose and bachelor’s button in soups and salads, topping desserts—such as the chocolate chili cream pot studded with blue cornflower—and scattered over entrées. Even drinks aren’t exempt. “Edible flowers are absolutely unparalleled in their power to bring brightness, sophistication and romance to a dish.” ❖

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Marvelous, Magical Mint Getting to know the hearty, ubiquitous herb

By Rebecca Ory-Hernandez

Minty Menthas With hundreds of varieties to choose from, mint offers refreshment like no other herb on a hot summer’s day.

It’s perhaps the most cooling of herbs—reminiscent of chilly winter on a summer menu. Mint adds distinct flavoring and fresh fragrance to beverages from kombucha and cocktails, lemonades and teas, to complementing savory dishes like lamb and Thai spring rolls, and even sweet desserts like chocolate mousse, gelato, ice cream and sauces. Chefs and bartenders along the Wasatch Front use mint frequently as a culinary tool.

Mint has been used for centuries, and is renowned for its cooling properties. It’s no wonder that chefs have utilized this effect in foods and beverages to help you in feeling refreshed, both from the olfactory senses when you lift a class of cool, minty limeade to your lips, to the aftereffects and comfort your stomach feels after digestion begins. That minty sensation you may feel is no coincidence. About 50 percent of the volatile

34 Devour Utah • July 2016

oil found in peppermint is menthol, which generates an antispasmodic effect on the smooth muscles of the gastrointestinal tract, and can also be used to soothe respiratory conditions such as colds, coughs and bronchitis. You may notice it opening your sinus passageways if you step onto fresh mint in your garden.

Pointed in texture, with pale to bright green colored leaves, mint's size and strength depends on its variety.

There are two types of mint, or, in Latin, menthe: peppermint and spearmint. The genus, menthe, is followed by the species.

Spearmint (Mentha spicata) features “spikes” or spears of pale pink-violet flowers, and wrinkled, bright green leaves that are traditionally used in chewing gum, teas and cocktails such as the mint julep and mojito.

Spearmint is considered gentler than peppermint, and less likely to overwhelm your cuisine. It is the preferred culinary mint used in restaurant foods.

Peppermint (Mentha x piperita), looks similar to spearmint, but has deeper veins and a stronger

DEREK CARLISLE

aroma with intense, cooling flavor. Peppermint was historically famous for flavoring sauces and wines by the ancient Greeks and Romans, and it's favored by chefs for bolder mint flavors.

Managing Mint In The Beehive In Utah, there are dozens of varieties of mint that can be successfully grown at home outside of the typical spearmint and peppermint, but they are more delicate and not as hearty. Some you will find in your local nursery are chocolate mint, ginger, apple, pineapple mint, lime mint, lemon mint, cinnamon mint, curly mint, orange mint and my personal favorite, Swiss mint. These can all grow beautifully along a rock wall, in your herb garden or in pots. Mint plants typically require little attention, and by July they are at their peak, flowering with tiny pink or lavender blossoms, attracting bees. It’s best to grow mint from roots and not seeds to be sure you get what you want.

Just how do you grow mint in Utah, without

REBECCA ORY-HERNANDEZ

DEREK CARLISLE

Barney Barnett of Willard Bay Gardens

Devour Utah • July 2016 35

DEREK CARLISLE

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its vigorous surface runners taking over your garden, or worse, your neighbor’s entire yard? One way to safely plant mint at home is to do so in planters, pots or along a wall. An advantage of planting the fancy flavored mints is that they are almost always more delicate and less vigorous than standard spearmint and peppermint.

Barney Barnett, owner of Willard Bay Gardens Nursery, carries nearly 20 varieties of mint. His advice for safely planting mint in the ground? Get a 3-gallon bucket or plastic container and drill some holes in the bottom for drainage. Then, dig a hole in the ground that will accommodate the bucket. Fill in the space with soil, and voila! You’ll have fresh garden mint to enjoy for years without it invading other space in your garden. Ask your nursery to recommend varieties that will be successful in your garden. Most mint plants require partial to full sun to thrive, but there are also some that thrive in shade.

When asked, Barney said he likes infusing mint in his drinking water. He stated, “I work outdoors all summer, and if I put several sprigs of mint in my water bottles, and place them in the fridge overnight—wow. It really cools me down and hydrates me the following day unlike anything else.”

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Minty libations are no stranger to the bar and restaurant scene. Chef Jeremy Matthews was feeling a bit guilty about using mint simply as a garnish for desserts. He wanted to reduce waste, and came up with a signature drink for his Nordstrom Bistro restaurant in Murray. The Sparkling Mint Limeade Spritz contains simple, delicious ingredients. “It’s like a nonalcoholic mojito,” he says.

Here is Jeremy’s minty Limeade Spritz recipe: Combine a teaspoon of chopped mint with lime and muddle it in a pint glass. Then, add ice to the glass.

Fill the glass two-thirds full of housemade lemonade, top it off with a third of Sprite. Add some tequila if you’d like yours to have a kick at home.

Jeremy adds, “I’ve found other ways to use mint

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Devour Utah • July 2016 37

DEREK CARLISLE

Fresh mint with gelato

in our restaurant, and have discovered that it is a versatile herb. It pairs well with sweet ingredients like chocolate, citrus and cream, and also works well with savory items like lamb, duck, tomatoes, lentils and peas. It’s often used in Southeast Asian, Mediterranean, Lebanese and Caribbean dishes. I also love to do a simple, delicious salad of watermelon, goat cheese, balsamic reduction and mint chiffonade for the summer months.”

How Sweet It Is Perhaps the most popular way of using mint is in desserts—accenting flavors of chocolate, berries or watermelon, and creating simple mint sauces. Did you know there is a variety of mint called “chocolate” mint (Mentha x pepita, chocolate)? That variety is especially delicious in gelato and ice cream.

Primary Children’s Outpatient Services Chef, Ralph Martinez, uses mint in his mint chocolate chip gelato, which is a popular treat in his café. “I first create a base using the freshest ingredients: milk, cream, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla. After that freezes, I fold in the chocolate chips and mint extract.” The recipe is easy to adapt at home, going as far as juicing a bunch of mint from your garden in place of extract, adding vibrant green color. And who doesn’t love gelato and ice cream in the heat of the summer?

I hope this has inspired you to get out and gather up some mint and freshen up your menus. With its calming effects and cooling properties, there are all sorts of minty options to chill out when you’re feeling scorched.

Note: Using mint for medicinal purposes should only be done under the supervision of a qualified healthcare practitioner. This article should be used for entertainment and culinary purposes only. ❖

38 Devour Utah • July 2016

Rebecca’s Garden Mint Blend Tea, p. 39

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Rebecca’s Garden Mint Blend Tea For me, nothing takes the heat off of the scorch of summer like a glass of refreshing, cold iced tea. Here’s one of my favorites using a variety of Willard Bay Gardens mint:

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Ingredients: 1 part each fresh peppermint and apple mint leaves ½ part spearmint leaves ¼ part ginger mint leaves ¼ part Swiss mint leaves 1-2 drops of almond extract or lime juice Combine bunches of mint and infuse in a gallon of fresh spring water. Stir or shake gently to infuse water. (Glass is better than plastic for steeping herbs).

Place in the refrigerator overnight. Strain the next morning and place in a separate container. Serve in a tall glass filled with ice. This can also be added to black or green tea. Just add one tea bag to the gallon before steeping.

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You can also dry mint and use the same recipe during winter months for hot tea. Carefully steep dried herbs no longer than a minute or two.

Prolonged steeping of dried mint makes a bitter tea. ❖

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Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder

By Mollie McConahay-Snider • Photos By Derek Carlisle

o the delight of adventurous imbibers, a new beverage-dujour is gaining favor at some downtown Salt Lake City hot spots.

Absinthe, nicknamed La Fée Verte (the green fairy), undoubtedly for the drink’s green hue as well as its otherworldly allure, is a highly intoxicating spirit with a history of bohemian merriment and vilified myth.

The distilled liquor—produced using grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) and then flavored with anise, fennel and culinary herbs— originated in Switzerland, and hit its height of popularity in Paris at the turn of the 20th century. Once thought to induce hallucinations (it doesn’t), absinthe was banned in the United States in 1915.

Despite a tabooed past, absinthe slowly began to reappear in the mid-1990s and is currently enjoying something of a renaissance. From the first sip, it’s easy to understand the fashionable fascination. Yes, absinthe comes with a high-proof kick but it also has a fresh, tangy flavor and is surprisingly versatile and a cocktail component.

Copper Common’s Good And Plenty (aptly named for its flavor similarity to the movie theater favorite) combines absinthe, apricot liquor, lemon juice and a splash of SLC’s own Bitters Lab vanilla and apricot bitters. A tumbler is packed with crushed ice before the cocktail is slowly poured over it. Much like the ice water dripping from the absinthe fountain, Bar Manager Adam Bagby, explains, “the ice creates the louche—the cloudy effect achieved when absinthe and ice mix.”

42 Devour Utah • July 2016

The Cocktail: Good and Plenty The Maker:

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The Cocktail: Sazerac The Maker:

Dre Moyle, Bourbon House 19 E. 200 South, SLC 801-746-1005 BourbonHouseSLC.com

hen it comes to a proper Sazerac, no bar is serving up a better example of the New Orleans’ staple than Bourbon House.

Located in the basement of the Walker Center, Bourbon House has a distinct old-time speakeasy feel, which makes the restaurant an ideal absinthe environment. Aside from the drink’s usual inclusion of rye whiskey, Peychaud’s bitters and a muddled sugar cube, Moyle incorporates an absinthe wash, giving the cocktail added punch.

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The Cocktail: Kubler Swiss Absinthe Superieure The Maker:

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nder Current Bar Manager Amy Eldredge has put together an inspired list of absinthe cocktail offerings. Death In the Afternoon is a deliciously refreshing combination of absinthe and sparkling wine, appropriately served in a chilled French coupe with a fresh lemon peel garnish. Amy explains the restaurant’s use of an absinthe wash in their cocktails, “Coating the interior of a cocktail glass with a thin layer of absinthe helps to tame its stronger notes.”

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Fresh Start A “New Yorker” finds flavor in the Beehive

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ell, first off, my wife Janet and I are from the “New Jersey part of New York,” and we still miss the food we grew up with—all the ethnic varieties of the hole-in-the-wall neighborhood hangouts. It’s the main reason we opened our deli. Deli addiction is, after all, a powerful craving. As you can imagine, Janet is not always in the mood to cook when Feldman’s Deli is closed, so we’ve had to find our own local culinary sanctuaries.

For starters, we enjoy food we find too difficult to make ourselves. We also appreciate smaller places where we can get to know the owners and cooks, and support home-grown talent. And we like places where we can experience authentic traditional dishes and a variety of flavors that are a welcome change from the food we serve. After all, man cannot live by pastrami alone.

Restaurants specializing in small plates provide a cornucopia of flavors in a single meal. Dim Sum (Chinese breakfast) is a Sunday ritual for us. Whether it’s at Red Maple, the New Golden Dragon, Anh Hong’s or Dim Sum House, we always enjoy wondering what’s next on the cart passing by. Crunchy, crispy, sweet, sour, spicy, savory … all in one meal. The same can be said for European small-plate traditions such as Spanish tapas or Greek mezze, and both traditions are alive and well at Meditrina (we love Tapas Tuesdays), Eva’s, Manoli’s (don’t even look at the menu, just have your waiter bring you his/her favorites until you can’t eat anymore) or Aristo’s.

Of course, being from Jersey, we miss neighborhood Italian fare, where Mama’s making homemade mozzarella and Pop is on the register: somewhere that Tony Soprano would recommend, if you know what I mean. So we love that Nuch’s (Heath is from N.J. and IMHO makes the best N.Y. pizza), Per Noi (great old-world Italian), Sole Mio (which has a Sicilian chef), Cannellas (a downtown icon) and Sea Salt (offering many of Nonna Maria’s—the owner’s grandmother—original recipes) are here to enjoy.

“The shore” is all about fresh seafood. Oysters, clams, chowda, etc. We are far from the coast, but great seafood can be found in Salt Lake City. My two favorites are Kimi’s Chop and Oyster House (you think you are in New York or Los Angeles when you enter this magnificent space) and Harbor Seafood and Steak (talk about chowda!). Both are great neighborhood eateries, where the owners stamp their signature on everything. The talented kitchen staff at both Kimi’s and Harbor are phenomenal.

I also really love to eat breakfast out. My dad used to take me to the local candy store for breakfast when I was a kid. So now I take him.

Whether it’s the fresh local fare at Roots Café, the hustle and bustle and people-watching sitting at the counter of Over the Counter or the “in the neighborhood” joints like Sharon’s or Cottonwood Cafe—it’s great to start the day with a newspaper, fresh coffee and eggs done right, all served with a smile. Why, you’d almost think you were back on the East Coast! ❖ Michael Feldman and his wife Janet, from New Jersey, are the owners of Feldman’s Deli.

After moving to Utah just before the 2002 Winter Olympics, Michael spent most of his career in Utah’s biotech industry.

Michael Feldman

Devour Utah • July 2016 51

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