Devour June 2016

vol. 2 no. 4 • June 2016 • explore

It’s time to

St. George Cuisine p. 10 Scandinavian and Nordic Fare in the Beehive p. 26

Eating Jackson Hole p. 14

Cheesemaking in Utah p. 36 Devour Utah • June 2016 1

A family of restaurants with

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!

Chabaar Beyond Thai

Tea Rose Diner

Siam Noodle Bar

87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100

65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111

5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT 801-262-1888

Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM 2 Devour Utah • June 2016

Devour Utah • June 2016 3

Dining in Dixie

Four can’t-miss St. George eateries

BY JOANNE MILLER

Jackson Getaway Dining and drinking in Jackson Hole

BY TED SCHEFFLER

The Spread

Boba World’s Shanghai surprises

BY AMANDA ROCK

Exploring Utah’s Nordic Heritage

Scandinavian and Nordic cuisine in the Beehive

BY DARBY DOYLE

The Deconstruct

Tin Angel Cafe’s Pato Tacos

BY TED SCHEFFLER

Spreading the Good Curd

Utah’s artisan cheesemakers and USU’s Western Dairy Center

BY BRIAN FRYER

Patio Perfect Cocktails

A quartet of sunny sippers

BY CHELSEA NELSON

Resident Alien

Exploration as a way of life

BY JOANNE MILLER

4 Devour Utah • June 2016

TY MANNION

10 14 24 26 34 36 46 50

Contents

Devour Utah • June 2016 5

DEVOUR CONTRIBUTORS STAFF

Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Editorial Staff Contributors

Photographers

TED SCHEFFLER ANDREA HARVEY, LANCE GUDMUNDSEN DARBY DOYLE, BRIAN FRYER, JOANNE MILLER, CHELSEA NELSON, AMANDA ROCK DEREK CARLISLE, RICK CAVENDER, NIKI CHAN, HANNAH Z. HARDAWAY, TY MANNION, JOANNE MILLER, CHELSEA NELSON, SARGENT SCHUTT, STEVENSON’S STUDIO, DAVID J SWIFT

Amanda Rock is a freelance food writer with a passion for local vegetarian fare. She blogs at Amanda-Eats-SLC.Blogspot.com

Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists

DEREK CARLISLE MASON RODRICKC SUMMER MONTGOMERY, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, CAIT LEE

Business/Office Accounting Manager Associate Business Manager Office Administrator Technical Director Business Dept. Administrator

CODY WINGET PAULA SALTAS CELESTE NELSON BRYAN MANNOS ALISSA DIMICK

Brian Fryer is a native Utahn and has a degree in communications from Utah State University. He writes for a number of publications, has been an editor for McGraw-Hill Construction publications and Intermountain Healthcare and city editor for the Park Record newspaper in Park City. He’s a food enthusiast, enjoys cooking and lives with his family in West Jordan.

Marketing Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator

JACKIE BRIGGS NICOLE ENRIGHT

Circulation Circulation Manager

LARRY CARTER

Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives

JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER JEFF CHIPIAN, JEREMIAH SMITH, MICHELLE PINO, SIERRA SESSIONS, LISA DORELLI, TYSON ROGERS

Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCOLLECTIVE contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at ABourbonGal.com.

Cover Photo: “Getting Out” by Jakub Kapusnak Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com

Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2016. All rights reserved

6 Devour Utah • June 2016

Salt Lake City native Chelsea Nelson is passionate about living local. She writes a food and cocktail blog, Heartbeat Nosh. By day, she is a digital marketing guru for a local nonprofit, but she loves adventuring with her family most of all.

TONA SUSHI BAR AND GRILL tonarestaurant.com 2013-2016

Best of State 2016

2012 - 2015

210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi Devour Utah • June 2016 7

Exploration An Eye For

I

’m an explorer by birth. I was born into an Air Force family and my father worked for the U.S. Government in various capacities while I was growing up. My earliest memories aren’t of attending elementary school in an American suburb, but of being a toddler in Japan. By the time I was 18, I’d lived in five different countries and even more American states. Later, as a road musician and then an anthropologist, I’d tour the country playing in nightclubs and do field research in Mexico and Brazil. There’s hardly been a time in my life when my default modus operandi wasn’t set to explore.

And so, I take special pleasure in presenting this issue of Devour devoted to exploring food and drink in Utah, including beyond the boundaries of Salt Lake City. Having recently discovered that it’s an easy drive from here to beautiful Jackson Hole, Wyo., a small resort town teeming with excellent eateries and bars, I share some of my favorites in this issue.

I was unaware that Nordic/Scandinavian cuisine and culture played such an important part in Utah’s, but was enlightened by Darby Doyle’s terrific article on that topic. Likewise, Amanda Rock unearthed a gem of a restaurant in Woods Cross, called Boba World—another great find that I can’t wait to try.

Joanne Miller—the one person I know who’s moved around during her life even more than I—explores the eateries of St. George, and manages to discover some great ones that are neither chains nor franchises. Who knew? And, anyone with the slightest affection for cheesy things will enjoy Brian Fryer’s piece on the dairy experts at Utah State University and Utah’s award-winning cheesemakers.

So sit back, relax and enjoy exploring this special issue of Devour Utah. ❖ —Ted Scheffler Editor

8 Devour Utah • June 2016

TY MANNION

The world awaits.

EXPLORE CHILI BEAK

A Utah Original Chili Oil

FIND US AT downtown farmers market park silly sunday market liberty heights fresh caputos harmons whole foods

DISCOVER MORE AT:

www.chilibeak.com

Devour Utah • June 2016 9

Dixie’s Delicious!

By George,

Forget the iceberg lettuce and go big on flavor

BY JOANNE MILLER

10 Devour Utah • June 2016

JOANNE MILLER

RICK CAVENDER

S

t. George’s culinary scene is thriving. Venture five minutes west off I-15’s Exit 8 and you’ll arrive in the charming, historical downtown enclave, brimming with quality dining options. Here’s a sampler of independent eateries to savor, rather than settling for franchise fare.

Trusted Steed Once inside this inviting space, opt for your nook of choice—perched at the bar, the main dining room or the treetop-decked patio.

The Painted Pony focuses on fresh, organic produce, artfully presented, New Americanstyle. Sir Bob Geldof laments Mondays but not at The Pony. “No Corkage Mondays” allow you to BYO your favorite tipple, sans fees. Enjoy the artisanal bread before ordering small plates for diversity and value. Favorites include decadent bacon-wrapped almond stuffed dates ($10), nearly too-beautiful-to-eat beet salad ($11) and ‘taters and fish, elegantly served as Potato Trout Cakes with pepper sauces and remoulade ($12). Daily lunch and dinner are served between 11:30 a.m. and 10 p.m.

Painted Pony Ancestor Square 2 W. St. George Blvd., Ste. 22 435-634-1700 Painted-Pony.com

Healthy’s the New Sexy Twisted Noodle Café owner/chef Cameron Payne intends to shift public perception of healthy food one taste bud at a time. TNC boasts generous servings of delicious food, including paleo options and dairy/gluten/sugar/wheat-free dishes.

Inspired daily specials make the most of seasonal produce and the spicy Thai pork quinoa bowl ($11), with succulent pork and tender vegetables, is just one of the many nourishing, popular choices, as are the SW Wrap or burger ($9/$10), paper-thin truffle Parmesan chips ($5), and low-fat, glutenfree desserts (from $1.50) brazenly flaunting their deliciousness from the display case. Download TNC’s app for daily specials, preordering and delivery service. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (closing at 9 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays).

Twisted Noodle Cafe 20 N. Main, Ste. 108 435-628-9889 TwistedNoodleCafe.com Devour Utah • June 2016 11

RICK CAVENDER

Handy George In the early 1930s, George Pace founded Big Hand Café—the corner pit stop for weary travelers seeking comfort food and respite from the desert heat.

His memory is revered at this lively, renovated gastropub, with daily (7 a.m.midnight) breakfast, lunch, dinner and cocktails. Farm-fresh eggs serve as the foundation for many dishes, including chicken-fried steak and eggs ($10.50), huevos rancheros ($8.50), lemon ricotta pancakes ($8.50), and omelets with hash browns or fruit salad ($8.50). The drink menu is solid and fizz lovers can revel in Segura Vida cava at just $5 per glass or $20 per bottle.

George’s Corner Restaurant Ancestor Square Corner, 2 W. St. George Blvd.

435-216-7311 GeorgesCornerRestaurant.com

North of the Border

RICK CAVENDER

Irmita’s offers authentic Mexican fare.

Devotees cross borders for the perfectly fried pork carnitas and daily specials ($6.95) from a small but refined menu that includes four small/two large tacos, quesadillas, burritos and crispy mulita (taco sandwich).

The ravenous don festive sombreros when attempting the 10-minute “Torta Challenge” ($10.50) while owners Jack and Anjelica set the mood with Weird Al Jankovic tunes. Besides bragging rights, triumphant challengers receive a certificate and their next torta is on the house. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday (9 p.m. close on Fridays and Saturdays).

12 Devour Utah • June 2016

Irmita’s Mexican Grill 490 W. St. George Blvd.

435-628-4399 Irmitas.com

3005 S. Highland Drive (801) 466-0961

michelangeloristorante.com

Devour Utah • June 2016 13

Exploring Jackson Hole Eating and drinking the Wyoming way

By Ted Scheffler

A

s a Salt Lake City-based writer, I’m never more than a half hour or so (with dry roads) from a choice of seven different top-notch resorts, plus the ski town of Park City. So I hadn’t thought much about visiting Jackson Hole, until I was made an offer I couldn’t refuse: an exploratory visit with the sole purpose of eating and drinking my way for a week (split between two trips) through some of Jackson’s premier restaurants and watering holes. Sometimes, my job doesn’t suck.

Keep in mind, however, that I am a trained professional.

I wouldn’t recommend hitting 11 restaurants in a 48-hour period, as I did at one point during my mission, unless you are truly gluttonous or a competitive eater like Joey

14 Devour Utah • June 2016

Chestnut. That said, I’d do it all again in a heartbeat.

So, with the resolve of a Jedi warrior, I essentially dropped in blind, armed with a list of restaurants and bars suggested to me by a team of Jackson Hole locals and foodies, knowing virtually nothing of the valley beyond spine-tingling tales of Corbet’s Couloir. It must be noted, I didn’t make it to every eatery I’d have liked to— that would take another month or more—but I explored enough restaurants and watering holes to get a pretty good picture of the local dining and drink scene. And I have to admit, I came away very impressed. There is an abundance of excellent food, libations and skilled service professionals packed into this relatively small town.

Day 1:

RICK CAVENDER

We’re not in Kansas anymore

SARGENT SCHUTT

Bin 22’s Gulf Shrimp

The Kitchen’s Oysters Rockefeller

SARGENT SCHUTT

A scenic four-hour drive from Utah to Jackson made my wife, Faith, and me wonder: Why hadn’t we done this before? Sitting on the sun-drenched September deck at Café Genevieve (135 E. Broadway, 307-732-1910, GenevieveJH.com), with its rustic cabin-like exterior, I had my first revelation: We’re not in Utah anymore. Virtually every table during Sunday brunch was filled with wine glasses, mimosas, barrel-aged cocktails, brews and other libations that you rarely see midday in Salt Lake City. You also won’t see dogs in Utah restaurants—a decidedly pet-unfriendly restaurant culture—but on Genevieve’s deck, dogs are de rigueur. While I pigged out on decadent Cajun eggs Benedict with housemade boudin sausage, the missus enjoyed a great grilled cheese sandwich, elevated from the norm with the addition of basil, Vermont white cheddar, avocado and beefsteak tomatoes. Alongside was a cup of the best-tasting tomato soup we’d ever had.

For a mid-afternoon nosh we dropped into Bin 22 (200 W. Broadway, 307-7399463, Bin22JacksonHole.com). The combination tapas restaurant and wine/ liquor store—buy a bottle of hard-to-find wine in the store and grab a table to enjoy it—turned out to be one of my favorite Jackson joints. As chefs busily prepared dishes in the open kitchen, we nibbled on a charcuterie plate (loved the crumbly Shelburne Farms cheddar). Be sure to order the house-pulled fresh mozzarella when you visit.

I was struck by the combination of cozy and contemporary at The Kitchen (155 N. Glenwood, 307-734-1633, TheKitchenJacksonHole.com), with its bamboo bar and tables, eco-panel wave of light and the arched wooden wall on the dining side of the restaurant. Equally impressive was the food, which I’d rate right up with meals I’ve had at renowned Nobu restaurants. A Japanese-Irish chef who grew up in Mexico, Santiago Kano’s innovative, travel-based cuisine (he’ll tell you at least two countries are in every dish) included some of our favorites.

We loved the tuna tartare kissed with truffled ponzu, and especially the wildly popular (so we were told by fellow diners) luxury shrimp—a serving of what had to have been at least 50 tempura shrimp poppers with sweet and spicy aioli.

Nearly dizzy from our first day of food excess, we did manage to scarf down a handful of gorgeous artisan chocolates—literally works of art—from Coco Love at Atelier Ortega (150 Scott Lane, 307-734-6400, AtelierOrtega.Squarespace.com) in enticing flavors like wasabi white chocolate, raspberry, passion fruit and chipotle chile. These aren’t your granddaddy’s Hershey bars!

Devour Utah • June 2016 15

Westbank Grill’s huevos rancheros

Day 2:

Tacos from Streetfood @ The Stagecoach

RICK CAVENDER

SARGENT SCHUTT

Westbank to Snake River

Trio’s blood orange margarita

Well rested from a night at the Virginian Lodge, we made our way to the Four Seasons in Teton Village for breakfast at Westbank Grill (7680 Granite Loop Road, 307-732-5000, FourSeasons.com). Deciding to forego the breakfast buffet, I ordered huevos rancheros, expecting them to be routine. However, they were anything but; indeed, I’ve never had better huevos, with slow-roasted pulled pork, green chiles, cojita cheese, perfectly cooked eggs, ranchero sauce and more. My wife was equally pleased with her healthful Irish steel-cut oatmeal and dried berry compote.

A hike to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park had us famished for lunch, so we descended upon one of my favorite discoveries during the entire trip: Streetfood @ The Stagecoach (5755 W. Highway 22, Wilson, 307-200-6633, StreetfoodJH.com). The eclectic menu and friendly service from owner Marcos Hernandez made lunch on the patio truly memorable. I hadn’t planned to find the perfect Cuban sandwich in Wilson, Wyo., of all places, but Streetfood’s Cuban is the real deal. Ditto my wife’s excellent fish tacos. And, the french fries were also fantastic—the dog begging at our table agreed.

Sadly, we never had time to eat dinner at Trio (45 S. Glenwood, 307-734-8038, BistroTrio.com), but we will make sure to upon our next visit. We did, however, make time to stop in for a blood-orange margarita and a marvelous bowl of steamed Prince Edward Island mussels with grilled bread to soak up the savory broth.

After burning a few calories visiting some of the boutiques and cowboy shops in downtown Jackson, we made our way to Snake River Grill (84 E. Broadway, 307733-0557, SnakeRiverGrill.com) for dinner. Although the place was packed, and tables were close and cozy, our window seat was divine and surprisingly quiet.

Sharing an exquisite dish of sweet corn agnolotti, our server Lucas—one of the best servers I’ve ever encountered—suggested a glass of Moscatel alongside, a perfect match. A dish of wood oven-roasted organic chicken with späetzle in natural jus was outstanding, and my wife loved her Korean hot pot brimming with veggies and ramen noodles. I now understand why Snake River Grill is such a favorite among locals and tourists alike.

16 Devour Utah • June 2016

SARGENT SCHUTT

SARGENT SCHUTT

Snake River Grill

Day 3:

We need more time!

There’s a lot to like about Persephone Bakery (145 E. Broadway, 307-200-6708, PersephoneBakery.com), but one of my favorite details there is the old-fashioned typewriter that sits next to the water closet, inviting people in-wait to type messages and tack them up on the bulletin board above it. While Faith chose a healthy muffin and granola for breakfast, I found the Croque Madame on levain toast calling my name. It gave me the sustenance and energy I’d need for a tour of the National Museum of Wildlife Art, where we spent much of the morning in awe.

With just enough time for lunch before heading back to Utah, we hit the patio at Hatch Taqueria & Tequilas (120 W. Broadway, 307-203-2780, HatchJH.com). Timing is everything, as they say, and I wish my timing had been better. Had I not been faced with a four-hour drive back home, I’d have loved to sip my way through some of Hatch’s remarkable selection of tequilas, mescals, brews and cocktails. But, I settled for a bottle of Mexican Coke and tender, slow-roasted carnitas tacos instead. The highlight of our lunch, however, was a sizzling iron pan of bison sausage à la plancha with poblano chiles and salsa verde. Olé!

more than

a pub

SARGENT SCHUTT

Hatch Taqueria’s bison sausage

Devour Utah • June 2016 17

High-altitude style at Spur

Day 4:

STEVENSON’S STUDIOLLC

Marvelous mountain cuisine

French fry Shangri-La A truly great french fry is a wonderful thing, but not as easy to make as you might think. French fry aficionados know that the secret to a fabulous fry is in double cooking. They are fried first at a relatively low temperature, and then finished around 375 degrees Fahrenheit.

I’ve tasted fries from Paris to Brussels and from Rio to San Francisco, but I’ve yet to encounter a better one than Chef Kevin Humphreys’ paprika-dusted pommes frites at The Spur. They’re fab.

18 Devour Utah • June 2016

convenient walk downstairs—after enjoying the rooftop hot tub—to Spur (3385 Cody Lane, 307-732-6932, TetonLodge.com/Spur) for dinner. By the time we’d finished, I had come to the conclusion that Spur was my favorite Jackson Hole restaurant. For starters, it’s much more economical than most of the higher-end eateries in which we dined. An absolutely stunning herb-roasted half chicken with sweet potato gnocchi, spinach, crisp speck pieces, shiitake mushrooms and goat cheese was a mere $24. And the chile and citrus gravlox was simply to die for. The house wine was cheap, but of very high quality, and the regular wine list was excellent. I am now a fan of the restaurant’s executive chef Kevin Humphreys, who—perhaps not surprisingly—was named Best Chef for seven consecutive years in Planet Jackson’s Best of Reader’s Poll.

Spur’s french fries

STEVENSON’S STUDIOLLC

RICK CAVENDER

Live music fills the Mangy Moose

Day 4: Mountain comforts During our second Jackson Hole excursion, I sunk my teeth into the gargantuan sausage egg bagel at Jackson Hole in Resort’s Café 6311 (Bridger Center, 307-7332292, JacksonHoleWY.com. Later, warming up at the Mangy Moose (3200 W. McCollister Drive, 307-7334913, MangyMoose.com) for lunch, I immediately understood why the place is so iconic. In a world where restaurateurs think nothing of spending millions on décor and ambiance, the natural, funky feel and look of the Moose is entirely refreshing. But what really surprised me was the quality of the food in the bar. We tend to be taco fiends, and the machaca and mahimahi tacos were superb, particularly washed down with a Pako’s IPA from Snake River Brewing Company.

Since we were staying at Teton Mountain Lodge this trip, it was a

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E.leaven Food Co.’s Reuben

Day 5:

RICK CAVENDER

Buns, bagels and more

DAVID J SWIFT

The Bunnery’s ham & Swiss croissants

20 Devour Utah • June 2016

If there’s a classic, old-school dinerstyle spot for old-fashioned home cooking in Jackson, it’s gotta be The Bunnery (130 N. Cache, 307-733-5474, Bunnery.com). The log cabin that was once a blacksmith shop serves breakfast, brunch and lunch at any time, so no matter the time of day, you can always stop in for its famous cinnamon rolls, a full breakfast or perhaps a slice of berry pie.

And while we’re on the topic of baked goods, E.leaven Food Co. (175 Center St., 703-733-5600, EleavenFood.com) is a terrific spot for flaky croissants, can’t-miss muffins, artisan breads, bagels and more.

For lunch, I enjoyed the best cheesesteak I’ve had outside of Philadelphia. My wife equally devoured her roasted veggie sandwich on multigrain bread with

zucchini, bell peppers, mushrooms, red onion, tomatoes, provolone and yummy salsa mayo.

With a new executive chef—Serge Smith—and a menu focused on rustic Italian fare, Il Villaggio Osteria (3335 W. Village Drive, 307-739-4100, JHOsteria. com) is the perfect spot for a cozy lunch or fantastic dinner in Teton Village. Enjoy a quick plate of antipasti such as tuna tartare, meatballs with house-pulled mozzarella or venison carpaccio—its silky meat juxtaposed by crunchy granola. Or, you can go whole-hog with dishes like truffle-infused pappardelle with mushrooms, pork cheek and braised cabbage, or perhaps something simple but sensational, such as the classic pizza Margherita, fresh and gooey from the eatery’s wood-fire oven.

Il Villaggio Osteria’s fusilli

SARGENT SCHUTT

DAVID J SWIFT

The Bunnery’s Very Berry Pie

Devour Utah • June 2016 21

Noodle Kitchen’s ramen bowl

Day 6:

HANNAH Z. HARDAWAY

Uniquely healthy and eclectic

HANNAH Z. HARDAWAY

Lotus Cafe’s bodacious bloodies

22 Devour Utah • June 2016

HANNAH Z. HARDAWAY

Teton Thai’s stir-fry

I’ve eaten in restaurants all over the globe, of every style and stripe, and yet Lotus Café (145 N. Glenwood St., 307-7340882, TetonLotusCafe.com) is one of the most unique I’ve found. It’s not too often that you can have your organic meat and raw, living, unprocessed plant foods under one roof. So I only felt a slight tinge of guilt ordering the grass-fed, all-natural, bison burger on brioche bread, while Faith opted for the Lotus veggie burger, made with quinoa, brown rice, gold flax, sunflower seed, carrot, legumes, basil, parsley and thyme. Both burgers came with awesome roasted garlic aioli. No matter your dietary restrictions, Lotus Café has something to satisfy.

A number of locals recommended Teton Thai (7342 Granite Loop, 307-7330022, TetonThaiVillage.com) to us during our visit. Thai food in Teton Village? I was skeptical. But even on a Monday night, Sam and Suchada Johnson’s intimate joint was packed. Teton Thai definitely attracts a local crowd, and thanks to our terrific server, Calee, we felt like ourselves in no time at all. If you’re looking for a quiet dining scene for a romantic meal, this isn’t it. But for a vibrant, bustling atmosphere and authentic cuisine (thanks to the Thai ladies cooking in the kitchen), you’d be hard-pressed to do better than Teton Thai. And it’s inexpensive to boot. I’m not used to seeing duck, which I love, on Thai menus, so I quickly decided on the roasted duck curry. And I’m glad I did.

Tender, moist, boneless pieces of duck breast were bathed in a coconut-milk red curry with tomatoes and basil, plus pineapple to sweetly offset some of the curry’s heat. Faith ordered the cashew nut stir-fry with celery, peppers, onions, mushrooms and chili paste and was equally satisfied. Portions are huge, so plan on having leftovers for lunch the next day.

I have to say, I wasn’t looking forward to leaving Jackson Hole. In less than a week, I’d come to love it. But, we still had a couple meals left to enjoy.

Remembering how much I adored our dinner at Spur, we decided to try breakfast there, just to make sure the whole thing wasn’t an illusion. It wasn’t. Throwing caution (and calories) to the wind, I ordered the most decadent breakfast I’ve had in years. It was four pieces of banana bread French toast, drizzled with Nutella, sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with strawberry compote and fresh fruit. My teeth ache just thinking about it, but it was absolutely delicious.

With only one meal left before our drive back to Salt Lake City, we decided on lunch at Noodle Kitchen (945 W. Broadway, 307-734-1997, NoodleKitchenJH. com). There’s a long bar area that’s perfect for solo diners, as well as booths and tables for larger parties. The key to Noodle Kitchen is customization. It’s a place where you can have it your way. There’s a regular menu with an assortment of Asian-inspired dishes, but most customers seemed to go for the “Build Your Own Bowl” option. First, you select from starches such as ramen, glass, rice or udon noodles or jasmine rice. Next, there’s a choice of broth (dan-dan, bone broth, roasted peanut, miso, yakitori, etc.). Vegetables are then chosen and, finally, a protein: chicken, tofu, shrimp, beef, or pork belly.

My wife opted for the jasmine rice bowl with lots of veggies and roasted peanut sauce, which was delectable, but I liked my ramen with pork belly and bone broth even more. Like so many restaurants here—even smallish ones like this and Teton Thai—I was impressed by the wine selection.

Day 7:

Back home and dreaming of Jackson

And so, I’m back home in Utah, and find myself eagerly anticipating my next exploration of Jackson Hole. I get it now. For a place of fairly small size and population, it is teeming with truly excellent restaurants, and I barely put a dent in them. The other reason I’m compelled to return is the unparalleled service. There wasn’t a single restaurant or bar that we visited where the service wasn’t incredibly friendly and professional. That’s especially impressive in a seasonal town like Jackson Hole where year-round help is hard to find. I can’t list everyone’s names, but servers such as Amber at Genevieve, Caitie from The Kitchen, Westbank Grill’s Kelly, The Spur’s Marielle, Micha from Mangy Moose, Allison at Lotus Café and Josh at Trio— and many more top-notch pros—made our Jackson Hole visits truly memorable.

In the words of Arnold Schwarzenegger, “I’ll be back.”

RICK CAVENDER

Teton Thai’s steamed dumplings

Dope Dumplings I’m a sucker for Chinese potstickers and Japanese gyoza, but I’m not used to ordering dumplings in Thai restaurants.

Well, if most are as delicious as Teton Thai’s steamed/fried dumplings, I’ll order them every time. This was an order of five hefty, beggar’s purse-style dumplings stuffed to the brim with a hearty and heavenly mixture of minced pork, shrimp, chicken and shiitake mushrooms, served with sweet & sour sauce. Those dumplings are dope!

Patino Ope

Small Batch Modern American Craft Kitchen

New Summer Menu & Cocktail List 3364 s 2300 e, SLC slcprovisions.com Devour Utah • June 2016 23

The

pread S

Shanghai via Wood Cross 24 Devour Utah • June 2016

boba world Your destination for Shanghai cuisine

Y

ou only have to drive 20 minutes from Salt Lake City (even less from North Salt Lake) for a taste of Shanghai.

Tucked into an unassuming strip mall in Woods Cross, Boba World has been serving authentic Shanghai food since 2011. This tiny restaurant is particularly popular for two things: housemade Shanghai Fat Noodles and boba tea.

Opt for the Shanghai Stir-Fried Fat Noodle ($8.75) served with either chicken or beef. The noodles are thick, chewy and utterly delectable, slathered with savory soy sauce. On the lighter end of the spectrum, you can order these noodles swimming in a flavorful vegetarian soup, loaded with fresh veggies and tofu. They’re as fun to slurp as they are delicious.

Don’t miss out on trying the boba drinks, luscious beverages spiked with chewy balls of tapioca. Extra large straws accommodate the boba balls for more slurping fun. Look for these refreshing treats under Chewing Drinks on the menu. Fruity flavors like banana or green tea are tasty choices.

For an appetizer, try the mouthwatering Shanghai Juicy Dumplings ($7.50). Orbs of minced pork are cloaked in a roomy dumpling served with a pungent dipping sauce. The wiggle room inside the dumpling is meant to soak up the sauce for a unique and gratifying bite.

Traditional Chinese dishes are on the menu as well. Lunch specials priced at a remarkable $5.50 include Hot & Sour or Egg Drop Soup, steamed rice and your favorite Chinese dish. ❖

Xiao-hong Zha

Boba World 750 S. 512 West, Ste. 3 Woods Cross 801-298-3626 —By Amanda Rock Photos by Niki Chan

Devour Utah • June 2016 25

Legacy EXPLORING THE

OF NORDIC CUISINE IN UTAH

Fjords of Norway Coastline 26 Devour Utah • June 2016

By Darby Doyle

COURTESY DEER VALLEY SKI RESORT

Zane Holmquist

“F

ood is an ingrained part of who we are,” says Stein Eriksen Lodge executive chef Zane Holmquist, “and the history and heritage of Scandinavian foods are chiming into that in a popular way right now.” Holmquist is an award-winning chef whose family roots in Utah go back to 1910, when his ancestors surnamed Lindquist and Blomquist came from Sweden to Salt Lake City. He learned to cook at his grandmother’s side, and uses many of her recipes to this day. “The flavors of Scandinavia are very present in my food: mace, juniper, nutmeg and dill. My grandmother’s recipe for salmon with dill and aquavit is on our menu,” as are her Swedish meatballs.

Chef Holmquist’s personal and culinary history echoes the diversity of Utah’s cultural heritage throughout the hospitality industry, including every population’s most important food source, farmers.

Although the largest influx of immigrants from Sweden, Norway, Finland and (in the greatest numbers) Denmark came during the turn of the last century, Scandinavian immigrants flocked to the mining towns of the Mountain West in the 1850s, as did transplants from all over the world. According to Utah historian William Mulder, “Danish farmers and their families (including an occasional

DEREK CARLISLE

SVEN MOTGENSON

Dill & sea salted salmon

Devour Utah • June 2016 27

ALKERK

Lefse

“We are now 45,000 and are a great power in our state.”

28 Devour Utah • June 2016

TY MANNION

TY MANNION

— Anthon H.

shepherd and a few called gardeners or agriculturalists) made up fully half the UtahLund destined emigration in the 1850s,” along with other artisans whose work was crucial in keeping the booming population fed: butchers, brewers, bakers, hunters and millers. A Danish immigrant started Utah’s first dairy cooperative, notes Mulder, when he rounded up “four hundred cows from his fellow townsmen in Brigham City to pasture and tend them on shares.”

By the 1900 census, 34 percent of Utah’s foreign-born population hailed from Scandinavia. During a reunion of Scandinavians held in Brigham City in 1902, Danish immigrant Anthon H. Lund declared, “We are now 45,000 and are a great power in our state.” Although the emphasis in Utah history is often on the large influx of Scandinavians as Mormon converts, large numbers of the immigrant population settled in the Beehive State as members of Lutheran and Presbyterian congregations, or steered clear of organized religion altogether.

And if you’re not fortunate enough to have inherited a vast repertoire (and the skill to use it) of Scandinavian cuisine like Chef Holmquist, church bake sales are still a terrific way to source traditional baked goods, says my friend Heidi Ray Sanger. She moved to Utah a few years ago from North Dakota and told me, “I was happy to find a few Norske’s at our church (Good Shepherd Lutheran) who know how to make lefse —a traditional Norwegian flatbread of sorts—so I buy it from their bake sale each year.” Their popular annual bazaar in November features homemade Norwegian and Finnish food and, says Heidi, “the ladies who make it have given lessons at the church on how to make it.”

Can’t wait until November? The Danish settlement of Ephraim has held one of Utah’s largest Scandinavian festivals every Memorial Day weekend going on 40 years. In addition to activities such as the “Vike on a Bike” costumed mountain-bike race, a grand parade and Fun Run, the Snow College campus hosts Scandinavian crafts booths, folk dance performances and musical acts ranging from traditional accordion players to tribute groups like “Super Trooper,” covering music from that Swedish disco staple, ABBA. But let’s be honest, no festival worth its salt is complete without plenty of food options. As Ephraim

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Old Dutch’s Danish Havarti

“It’s a food culture that uses a lot of white in the diet.”

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DEREK CARLISLE

Kimi’s gravad lax toast

30 Devour Utah • June 2016

DEREK CARLISLE

Kimi’s Chop and Oyster House

claims to be “Utah’s Heart of Scandinavia,” festival guests can experience a Scandinavian dinner of epic proportions, with previous year’s Burt menus featuring gravad lax, Swedish Limpu bread, traditional potato dishes from Denmark and Sweden, apple cake and of course, Swedish meatballs made by actual grandmas, not defrosted from an IKEA freezer bag. Settled primarily by Danish immigrants, the greater Sanpete Valley was once known as “Little Denmark,” and still boasts shops and restaurants with Scandinavian flair for visitors year-round.

Sadly, two staples of Nordic cuisine in Salt Lake City, the Scandinavia Shop and Scandia Kaffe House, have gone out of business. Fortunately, The Old Dutch Store on South Highland Drive in Sugar House thrives and stocks specialties like marzipan cake and creamy Danish Havarti cheese with dill. The former pastry chef at Scandia Kaffe House, Sven Neergaard and his sister Eva Neergaard Burt (who was born in Norway) still prepare labor-intensive treats like Norwegian pastries and marzipan cakes—especially at Christmas—and are a wealth of knowledge about Nordic cuisine. As Eva Burt says, “It’s a food culture that uses a lot of white in the diet: cream, white fish, butter, potatoes.” In many ways, Scandinavians use dairy for flavor and fat like other regions of the world rely on pork.

Fine dining in Utah has benefited from the presence of the deft and talented hand of Kimi Eklund, who used to run Absolute!, located by the Capitol Theatre in the 1990s, and later Kimi’s Mountainside Bistro at Solitude Resort. The Swedish influences of her homeland can still be enjoyed at her latest restaurant, Kimi’s Chop and Oyster House. The lunch menu at this sleek Sugar House spot in particular shines with Scandinavian sharable favorites such as toast smögen, a gravad lax toast mini tower, and traditional open-faced sandwiches like skagen (shrimp and crab with dill horseradish crème), and many of the sauces and salads are bright with lingonberry accents.

Ski culture and Scandinavian immigrants have long coexisted with delicious results in Utah, as well. Brothers Alf and Sverre Engen immigrated to the U.S. in 1929, and Alf became a skiing legend in the Wasatch Mountains. Sverre and his wife Lois later managed the Rustler Lodge in Little Cottonwood

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“It’s a cuisine that works with a seasonal and smaller pantry” — Chef Zane

Finn’s Patio

32 Devour Utah • June 2016

TY MANNION

TY MANNION

Finn’s jule kake

Canyon, where Norwegian immigrant Finn Gurholt was hired as the lodge’s first chef. Finn and his wife Gerta started Finn’s Restaurant in Holmquist a space off of Old Highway 40 at the mouth of Parley’s Canyon in 1952, and it became an eastbench institution. In 2006, their son “Little Finn” Gurholt opened Finn’s Café in Sugar House, a bright and bustling breakfast and lunch spot featuring Scandinavian dishes like poached red trout, omelets with bay shrimp, Havarti and capers, traditional open-faced sandwiches and an addictive jule kake French toast unlike anything else available in the valley.

It’s not surprising that Scandinavian flavors feature prominently at Deer Valley’s premiere lodge, since it’s eponymously monikered for one of Utah’s most famous Norwegian immigrants, World Cup winner and Olympic gold medalist Stein Eriksen (who died in December 2015).

Chef Holmquist notes that Stein Eriksen’s sophisticated palate and experiences as a world traveler influenced his culinary preferences, which were reflected in ingredient sourcing for the restaurant. “Herring was Mr. Eriksen’s favorite food. He also preferred the very small shrimp of the North Atlantic. He would tell me about buying those shrimp from the docks with his brother when they were children in Norway, and they would eat them on the way home.” While many of these flavors are typically Scandinavian, Eriksen especially appreciated luxurious foods, says Holmquist. “He was a huge fan of caviar, and loved it with blini. He also ate a crème brûlée almost every day.”

Approachable, yet elegant, dishes with the cosmopolitan and modern flair that Deer Valley is justifiably famous for have been Chef Holmquist’s legacy at The Stein Eriksen Lodge, yet there are historical touchstones amidst all of that luxury that remain timeless. Scandinavian cuisine, asserts Holmquist, “is very connected to nature. It’s a cuisine that works with a seasonal and smaller pantry,” which is good for people and the environment. He continues, “We like to keep flavors and techniques interesting and modern for guests, but we try to reach into people’s memories with food. It’s what binds people together.” ❖

Stein Eriksen Swedish Meatballs &

Lingonberry Sauce Swedish Meat Ball Mixture: 2 pounds ground pork 1 pound ground veal ½ yellow onion 10 sprigs parsley 2 ounces Utah honey Kosher salt/pepper to taste 2 whole eggs ¼ cup Panko bread crumbs

Serves 8 to 10— approximately 48 small meatballs.

Courtesy of Zane Holmquist.

Lingonberry Sauce:

8 ounces lingonberry jam 3 cups veal demi-glaze (can be found in specialty food stores) ¾ cup heavy cream Combine all ingredients, simmer and reduce until sauce has a nappé consistency.

Method:

Small dice the yellow onion, pick parsley leaves from stems and finely chop. Combine all meatball ingredients together, mix thoroughly and place in refrigerator overnight.

Roll mixture into 1-inch uniform meatballs. Place meatballs, evenly spaced, on a nonstick baking sheet.

Cook at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and place in lingonberry sauce.

Serve and enjoy!

33 Devour Utah • June 2016

Photo by John Perry

Devour Utah • June 2016 33

34 Devour Utah • June 2016

W

ith his mischievous trademark smile, Jerry Liedtke—chef and co-owner of Tin Angel Café, along with Kestrel Liedtke and Robin Kilpatrick—says of his wife Kestrel, “She just liked the sound of saying ‘pato taco.’” He’s referring to the unique Tin Angel pato taco (pato is “duck” in Spanish) which is a sort of United Nations-type taco. “There are elements from Greece, Turkey, France, Morocco and Mexico,” says Jerry Liedtke of the boundary-breaking pato taco.

The key taco ingredient is homemade duck confit: French-style duck is slowly roasted in its own fat, then shredded and serves as the taco’s main attraction. Corn tortillas from La Diana are decadently fried in duck fat, stuffed with the duck confit and given a Middle Eastern flair with a dollop of homemade chickpea hummus—a really innovative and delicious spin on the traditional taco.

Pato tacos (2 per serving) toppings include shredded red cabbage, Feta cheese, housemade harrisa, pickled red onion and lime. Biting into the crunchy pato taco with a glass of Sinfo Rosado wine from Spain alongside, I could come to only one conclusion: The internationally flavored Tin Angel taco is terrifico! ❖

—Ted Scheffler Photos by Niki Chan

Tin Angel’s

Pato Tacos Tin Angel Café 365 W. 400 South, SLC 801-328-4155 Devour Utah • June 2016 35 TheTinAngel.com

Spreading the Good Curd

Utah’s cheesy landscape and Logan’s Western Dairy Center

By Brian Fryer Photos by Rick Cavender

36 Devour Utah • June 2016

VALERII655

Matt Caputo

AUSTEN DIAMOND

XX

X

“C

omment voulezvous gouverner un pays qui a deux cent quarante-six variétés de fromage?” asked Charles-André-Joseph-Marie de Gaulle. Translation: “How can you govern a country which has 246 varieties of cheese?”

The famous French leader was right. The world of cheese can be confusing, filled with staggering variety and passionate enthusiasts, but it also provides endless opportunity for exploration.

Matt Caputo, CEO of Caputo’s Market & Deli, says, among the myriad of imported cheeses that fill the store’s cases and aging caves, around 20 come from Utah producers and that number is growing all the time with new variations and styles. Many of the makers adding to the cheese landscape in the Beehive State share a common starting point at the Western Dairy Center at Utah State University in Logan.

Devour Utah • June 2016 37

The whey of the cheesemaker

"Get their hands in the curd."

—Carl

Learning cheesemaking techniques at the Western Dairy Center of Utah State University

38 Devour Utah • June 2016

A starting point for inspiration and exploration

Tucked into a corner of the Food and Nutrition Sciences Brothersen Building on the campus of Utah State University, the Western Dairy Center teaches food safety and sanitation and conducts research for the dairy industry. And, twice a year for 32 years, the center has welcomed cheesemakers and wouldbe cheesemakers from points around the globe to its week-long cheesemaking courses. The classes give everyone, from the managers of massive industrial cheese plants, to farmwives who may have been making small batches of fresh cheese with milk from their own cows, goats or sheep, the chance to learn some cheesemaking techniques, chemistry and, as WDC associate director and cheesemaking instructor Carl Brothersen says, “get their hands in the curd.”

Recently, Brothersen led a class of 12 students through a week that included classwork, milk chemistry, sanitation, discussions of cheesemaking and, of course, actual cheesemaking. Participants at the most recent advanced class made eight varieties of cheese from cheddar and Feta to German Butterkase and Finnish Juustoleipa.

Students span a wide range. Uri Zyman is a plant manager for U.S. Dairy Unlimited, which makes fresh cheeses for the Latin American market. He’d traveled from Miami to get his hands in the curd. Others like Gary Wietharn, vice president of manufacturing for the Dairy Famers of America, had never had their hands in the stuff despite overseeing plants that cooperatively help market tons of cheese and other milk products to packagers across the country. Elizabeth Babcock and her husband Daniel own Sweet Deseret Farm in Plain City. After buying some goats to “teach her boys responsibility and how to work,” and making small batches of cheese and kefir for her family, she’s looking to expand operations at the request of friends.

Kim Ashmore came from her ranch outside Helena, Mont., where she keeps between 400-500 goats. She had been making and selling cheese locally, but wanted to learn more and expand her repertoire.

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Jennifer stirring up a new batch

Pete Schropp

Richmond’s Rock Hill Creamery

Jennifer Hines Open-range grazing

40 Devour Utah • June 2016

The course evolved with Utah artisans

“Originally this was just a classroom course to teach cheesemaking to the local industry people like Cache Valley Cheese and Gossner’s. But eventually we expanded it to include anyone who was interested in making cheese and we added the lab component,” said Brothersen. “It seemed like around the early 2000s we started having more people show up who were interested in starting their own small companies. Now, having a class that is mixed like this is not unusual.”

One of those who started changing the makeup of the classes was Jennifer Hines, cheesemaker and co-owner with her husband Pete Schropp, of Rock Hill Creamery in Richmond. “I took the course in about 2001. It was very different.

Most all the people were from big, industrial-scale cheese plants,” said Hines. “I’d already visited some other small cheesemakers and done a lot of reading and I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted to do. Making cheese is something you get good at by doing it and at the WDC course you get some basic chemistry and learn about equipment, but then you get hands-on and actually make it.”

Rock Hill is a farmstead producer using milk from its own herd of six Brown Swiss cows. It has an aging cave on the property and sells its cheese at the farm stand, online and at Liberty Heights Fresh market. It also sells to local chefs and Rock Hill’s cheeses can be found on plates at Communal and Pizzeria 721 in Provo, Spencer’s Steak House in Salt Lake and various restaurants in Deer Valley.

Rock Hill has been consistently producing Edam, Gouda, Gruyere and Feta.

Lately Hines said she has been experimenting with Hispanico, which is similar to Spanish Manchego but made from cow’s rather than sheep’s milk.

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Making a better cheddar

When Pat Ford and his business partner and brother-inlaw Tim Welsh looked to exit the world of real estate and software in the early 2000s and founded Beehive Cheese they also drew on the resources of the WDC. “There were not that many small cheesemakers at the time and I don’t know if they took us seriously,” said Ford. “But we had a business plan and we took one of their staff people to the American Cheese Society competition in Portland, and I think it opened their eyes to what was going on with artisan cheese.”

Brothersen said the WDC offered the pair a recipe for cheddar that the WDC had been producing and selling locally as Old Juniper. “We took the Old Juniper recipe and changed the name to Promontory. We worked with WDC to tweak it some. Now we do about 10 different cheeses that are derivatives of that recipe,” said Ford. “We also produce Aggiano that was developed with USU.” Ford said this summer Beehive will introduce “Fully Loaded Cheddar,” produced in partnership with Park City-based High West Distillery using High West’s doublerye whiskey. He added Beehive will also be offering a fresh cheese, Beehive Fresh, at this year’s farmers markets. “It is aged less than three weeks and is great for pizzas and paninis,” said Ford.

Pat and Tim handling the distribution

42 Devour Utah • June 2016

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Kamas’ Gold Creek Farms

Trading pots and pans for curds and whey

In the Summit County town of Kamas, just east of Park City, Fernando Chavez-Sandoval works as the cheesemaker for Gold Creek Farms.

Sandoval was a trained chef but working for a time on the farm piqued his interest in cheesemaking. He attended WDC’s beginning cheesemaking course in 2009 and 2010 and has been producing award-winning cheeses ever since.

Gold Creek also uses milk from their own herd of Brown Swiss cows and makes a variety of cheeses including one of the only locally produced Parmesan and Romano-style cheeses.

“We make all kinds of cheddars. Our smoked cheddar won the American Cheese Society competition in 2012 and we won second in the smoked hard cheese category at the World Cheese Championships that same year,” said Chavez-Sandoval. “The owners of the farm have given me a lot of freedom to make all kinds, but we’re really getting known for our smoked cheeses.”

Chavez-Sandoval said he has been working on a cheddar aged three years and soaked in wine from Moab’s Castle Creek Winery. He’s also partnered with High West Distillery to produce a whiskey-rubbed cheese and one smoked with char from the inside of a whiskey barrel.

Sadly, the aforementioned cheesemaking class was Brothersen’s last, leaving the future of the course in question for now. “But to look around and see all these people who’ve been able to start businesses and are making award-winning cheeses is just great,” he said. “I’m happy to watch what they do next.”

Note: All the cheesemakers cited in this story said they welcome visitors. Find more information on their websites.

Rock Hill Creamery: RockHillCheese.com Beehive Cheese: BeehiveCheese.com Gold Creek Farms: GoldCreekFarms.com Western Dairy Center: USU.edu/WestCent

44 Devour Utah • June 2016

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Patio Perfection

SUNNY, WARM-WEATHER SIPPING

By Chelsea Nelson

T

here many things to explore when it comes to sipping your favorite cocktails in Utah: different craft cocktail bars, all kinds of unique ingredients and foods to pair with your libations, to name a few.

But, during the warm summer months, finding the perfect patio for indulging is sometimes the first and most important step. So, don’t forget your sunscreen while exploring some of the best outdoor sipping spaces around.

The Cocktail:

Tipsy Bumble The Maker: Abby Hobson Desert Edge Brewery 273 Trolley Square, SLC 801-521-8917 DesertEdgeBrewery.com

46 Devour Utah • June 2016

hen you think of Desert Edge Brewery, you might not automatically think “cocktails!”—but you should think “patio!” And, if you check out its Instagram feed (@DesertEdgeBrewery), you’ll see photos of some of the beautiful and creative libations that Desert Edge is serving up. This cocktail, the Tipsy Bumble, is a perfect beverage to partake as you enjoy the arrival of summer on the brewery’s famous patio. Local Beehive Jackrabbit Gin, freshly squeezed lemonade, lavender-infused honey and a splash of Champagne create a bright, sunny profile that is sure to get you in the mood for shorts and flip flops. The made-in-house fresh lavender-infused honey is what really makes this cocktail shine and you won’t forget the beautiful earthy undertones as it hits the back of your tongue.

DEREK CARLISLE

W

Patio Perfection The Cocktail:

Sangria from the Cooler The Maker: Billy Blanco’s 8208 Gorgoza Pines Road, Park City 435-575-0846 BillyBlancos.com

NATALIE GRUENDL

W

hen the weekend arrives, one of my favorite places to be is up Parley’s Canyon at Billy Blanco’s, enjoying a Sangria from the Cooler (and the amazing carne asada nachos) on the expansive outdoor patio. When the breeze kicks up and the sun is out, it is one of the happiest spots to be. This particular drink is something I inevitably order because it changes depending on what is fresh that day. It might be a classic Spanish sangria, or it could be a white peach sangria (sometimes both). No matter what fruit, wine and spirit concoction Billy Blanco’s barkeeps come up with, you know it is going to be just the thing to wet your whistle—so kick up your feet, relax and enjoy.

Devour Utah • June 2016 47

Patio Perfection

The Cocktail:

Spring Break The Maker: Tres Hombres Mexican Grill and Cantina 3298 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-466-0054 TresHombresCantina.com

48 Devour Utah • June 2016

here are a myriad of margaritas that you can enjoy at the wildly popular cantina, Tres Hombres. But sometimes you just have to go off the reservation, which is exactly how this beauty came to be. Joking around with Tres Hombres crew, we named this oversized margarita the Spring Break, because it is the perfect combination of fresh lime, Don Julio Reposado Tequila and a Gran Marnier float. As you can see from the photo, the way the sunset hits this cocktail in the patio evening light is pretty epic—but it’s the flavor that is truly memorable.

Spend some quality time on Tres Hombres’ outdoor patio, with any margarita from the menu, and you might trick yourself into thinking you’re on spring break!

CHELSEA NELSON

T

Patio Perfection The Cocktail: Proper Bloody Mary The Maker: Proper Burger and Proper Brewing Co. 865 S. Main, SLC 801-906-8604 ProperBurgerSLC.com

ou’ll find one of the newest patios to hit the scene at Proper Burger and Proper Brewing Co. With the burger joint and separate brewery right next to each other, anyone can find a beer, cocktail or beer-cocktail to satisfy their thirst.

Located in the up-and-coming area off Main Street and 800 South, Proper Burger and Proper Brewing Co. have positioned themselves to be at the center of the action. With both a front and back patio, Proper Burger has the perfect outdoor space to host all the block parties of Summer 2016, and they plan to. Also, the beer-cocktails offered at the brewery are about to get a major facelift. So, order up a classic bloody mary, a Hoppy Dog, a Proper Shandy or a Hopspital IPA … and enjoy the sunshine.

49 Devour Utah • January/February 2016

Devour Utah • June 2016 49

CHELSEA NELSON

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Funeral potatoes 50 Devour Utah • June 2016

Exploring and embracing change and chaos

By Joanne Miller

his exploratory issue of Devour Utah centers on reaching beyond the familiar.

Change terrifies some, but it’s all I’ve ever known. I’ve notched 39 relocations in my 38-year life, including four international transfers in five years while experiencing the novel, wondrous and occasionally offensive. “Resident Alien” is my harsh but accurate moniker, issued by The U.S. Department of Homeland Security.

To some, my life appears exciting and exotic; others, however, deem it chaotic and erratic. All descriptors apply at different moments as I learn and adapt to diverse geography, weather, local/state laws, culture, etiquette, language and currency—all of which are thrilling yet exhausting.

No fixed address means that “home” is a state of mind. I ache for my family and close friends and worry that distance and time will render us strangers.

Disconnection from my birthplace and apprehension at eventual repatriation bubbles below the surface as the milestone of one decade since venturing abroad approaches.

Minimalism is my mantra and I question attachment to any material items. Such brutality toward “stuff” stems from countless hours spent wrapping, boxing, hauling and storing and eventual unpacking of revered and oft-delicate items that have suffered at the hands of burly removalists or have since fallen out of décor favor.

Small towns where people die where they were born, rarely venturing beyond local lights frighten me, as such an existence is in direct conflict with my modus operandi. Strangely, I embraced such a lifestyle for one year in rural eastern Australia after relocating from the bustling, polluted Filipino capital of Manila. My remote respite was the panacea my mind, body and soul craved after five heady years in South East Asia, but my country affair was just that—a fleeting dalliance that may have consumed me, had I lingered too long.

I used to be overwhelmed by an urgency to explore at lightning pace, like a frenzied tourist on a three-hour sightseeing tour, armed with a fully charged camera, bucket list and little time to do it all. I agonized about not having enough time to see and experience everything before moving onto the next destination. I’ve since learned to truly live and appreciate the here and now.

Notable “devouring” moments include holding my nose while tentatively chewing durian—Singapore’s spiky, pungent “King of fruits;” furtively sipping on arak—a popular Filipino aperitif with distinctive notes of rocket fuel; and savoring every delicious mouthful of quintessential Queensland coconut-coated lamingtons and Salt Lake’s iconic to-die-for funeral potatoes.

This life of flux has gifted me with incredible experiences, traveling to and living in far-flung locales; acquiring a deep and authentic appreciation of people and place. My reality is what so many dream of doing if money and/or time weren’t obstacles.

Whether you venture to the end of your street or to the “ends” of the earth, be sure to appreciate the deliciousness of your surroundings—present, previous and yetto-be discovered. Happy exploring! ❖

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52 Devour Utah • June 2016