Devour Utah July 2015

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Issue 5 • july/august 2015 • Reclaim

It’s time to

Find the best seat for heavenly hotcakes and bloody mary bars p. 14 Make this meal after shopping the farmers market p. 52 Uncover five must-try dishes at Nordstrom p. 46

Meet Utah’s Drip Masters

p. 28

The intermountain west’s premier provider for gelato products equipment technicians

For information call 801-908-6091 2 Devour Utah • July/August 2015


Devour Utah • July/August 2015 3

10 14 26 28 38 40

Gourmet for All

Vegetarian delights at Asian eateries BY AMANDA ROCK



Find the best spots for the it-meal of the moment: Breakfast





Provisions Restaurant BY TED SCHEFFLER



Salt Lake’s coffee scene perks up with new style and quality of brew BY LEVI ROGERS

The Deconstruct

Log Haven



Nordstrom Cafe Bistro delivers organic, local delights BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ



Wasatch Front Farmers Market’s Maryann Alston says farming is like planning for the apocalypse



Chef Profile


Jen Gilroy

Chef/owner of Meditrina opens new Southern-influenced restaurant in Utah’s south valley BY AIMEE L. COOK

4 Devour Utah • July/August 2015


Sippers worth their salt BY DARBY DOYLE

46 52 54

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 5

Devour CONTRIBUTORS Staff Publisher JOHN SALTAS General Manager


Editorial Editor Contributing Editor Copy Editor Contributors



Rebecca Ory Hernandez is a freelance writer, home cook and artist who lives (and gardens) in Ogden.

Production Art Director Assistant Production Manager Graphic Artists


Business/Office Accounting Manager Associate Business Manager Office Administrator Technical Director


Levi Rogers is a writer and coffee roaster in Salt Lake City. He graduated from the University of Utah with a degree in English and is currently getting his MFA from Antioch University. He lives with his wife, Cat, his dog, Amelie, and his socks, all of which have holes.

Marketing Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator


Circulation Circulation Manager


Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives Devour Store Assistant Manager


Amanda Rock is a freelance food writer with a passion for local vegetarian fare. She blogs at

Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101

Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2015. All rights reserved

COVER SHOT: Saint Anthony Industries 6 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.

ExpEriEncE a TasTE of Thailand Exciting & EcclEctic

thai-American cuisine glutEn frEE & vEgAn friEndlY

87 w 7200 s | 801-566-5100 only thai restaurant open at 7am serving breakfast

thai-American cuisine & Homemade ice cream glutEn frEE & vEgAn friEndlY

65 E 5th ave (murray) | 801-685-6111

Build Your Own

nOOdlE BAr glutEn frEE & vEgAn friEndlY

5171 Cottonwood street (bottom floor of Ihc bldg.1) 801-262-1888 | Open at 7am serving breakfast & espresso

Authentic thAi cuisine At 3 greAt locAtions

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 7


Your Three Squares


can’t remember how it started, but at some point this year, I decided to stop serving cereal. I’m sure it had to do with empty calories and not wanting to feed my two boys what is essentially dessert for breakfast. So I decided to make pancakes or waffles. Every day. I add some variety to my homemade mix: coconut flakes, Greek yogurt, a ricotta-pineapple topping, whipped egg whites. And yes, chocolate chips. It’s become the one meal we are sure to eat together even when dinner can’t be shared because of busy schedules. And it’s my way of reclaiming that wasteland of a meal into something more wholesome. So I loved reading Heather L. King’s feature about how breakfast has made a comeback at restaurants. Many now serve up chicken and waffles, sour-cream hotcakes and bloody mary bars. Diners want healthier, or at least heartier, morning fare. And sometimes we want to eat it throughout the day, which is why you can look to local spots like Dottie’s Biscuit Barn and Penny Ann’s Cafe, instead of pancake house chains, to get your breakfast fix into the evening. This issue is about revamping the old ideas of what a restaurant or a dish or a shop is and reclaiming what it should be. Amanda Rock shows us we don’t need beef to make a satisfying meal in her exploration of vegetarian offerings at Asian restaurants; bites of silken tofu swimming in a spicy sauce will do. Levi Rogers explains how and why we no longer drink cinnamon-spiked cappuccino in knockoffs of Central Perk, that fictional coffee shop on Friends, and instead can sip a 17th-century coffee punch and eat restaurant-quality savory and sweet treats at a communal table. And Rebecca Ory Hernandez reveals how top-notch food can be found, of all places, near racks of designer clothes and high-style heels. This issue marks the end of my time as Devour editor. A year ago, I helped launch what was supposed to be a quarterly publication. I leave the now bimonthly magazine in good hands, and I look forward to reading and writing about Utah’s amazing food scene. ❖ —Heather May


Dottie’s Biscuit Barn’s Cuddle Pig

8 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 9

Vegetarian Global

Inexpensive veggie and vegan treats await at these Asian eateries BY AMANDA ROCK PHOTOS BY JOSH SCHEUERMAN


kip the American joints, forgo the meat and focus on unique flavors. The trick to finding good, affordable food is knowing where to look. Indian, Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese cuisines offer many delectable vegetarian-friendly options to please your palate as well as your pocketbook.

All Chay

1264 W. 500 North, SLC 801-521-4789 Serving tasty veganized Vietnamese fare, All Chay has been a hit since it opened earlier this year. Its pho has become stuff of legend, with a depth of flavor to rival its meaty counterparts. Instead of meat, a hearty combination of fried tofu, strips of faux beef, and crunchy veggie chicharrones are offered, along with vermicelli noodles, making this soup a substantial meal. A plate of flavorful accoutrements including bean sprouts, Thai basil, spicy jalapeños and a wedge of lime accompany the broth, while hoisin sauce and sriracha round out the flavors. Personalizing the dish with bits of this and that—and slurping up noodles—is a happy ritual. 10 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

AllPhoChay $7.95

Ganesh Indian Cuisine Spring Dosa $7.95

Ganesh Indian Cuisine

777 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale 801-569-3800 Dosa is the perfect comfort food—a sizeable crepe made from fermented rice and lentils with a sweet coconut chutney and savory tomato sambar (to satisfy both your sweet and savory tooth). Breaking off pieces of the crisp dosa, dipping it into the accompanying sauces and waiting for the bold flavors to explode on the tongue is heavenly. The Himalayan Spring Dosa— stuffed with cabbage, onions, carrots and potato masala—is a satisfying, filling meal.

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 11

Mano Thai Kow Soi $9.95

Mano Thai

41 W. 3300 South, SLC 801-485-1209 Mano Thai stands out in a city full of Thai restaurants. Offering faux chicken and beef alongside the usual fried tofu triangles, Mano Thai knows how to please vegetarians. Kow Soi is a favorite dish. It consists of a protein (try the “beef”), served in a delicious curry made from coconut milk and served over a bed of vermicelli noodles. Multiple textures and flavors mingle throughout the dish. Tart, pickled mustard greens, fried chilies, lime juice and crispy fried noodles make it utterly addictive.

China Town Eatery

3370 S. State, SLC 801-487``-6213 Salt Lake City’s Chinatown complex is full of culinary delights with vegetarian gems around each corner. Serving dim sum, baked goods and traditional Chinese dishes, China Town Eatery has a few vegan options that are sublime. After the first bite of the Mapo Tofu, you’ll be craving it weekly. Bits of silken tofu and veggies swim in a spicy sauce, served over perfectly steamed rice. Each forkful of slippery tofu is luscious. The heat level is ideal—not too fiery, and just peppery enough. The portions are generous, with enough for leftovers. ❖

12 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

China Town Eatery Mapo Tofu $7.99

Big City taste In A Friendly & Relaxed Setting







210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 •

Sharing your passion for over 80 years

188 E. Winchester St. | 801.268.1321 Devour Utah • July/August 2015 13

Breakfast IS BACK Bloody mary bars, waffles with chicken, or bananas Foster and decadent French toast await


Early Birds

14 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

By Heather L. King Photos by John Taylor

Late Risers

Crab Benedict Current Fish & Oyster

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 15


tahns are in love with breakfast. Over the past three years, Salt Lake City’s craving for morning foods has been hotter than bacon in a frying pan. From chicken and waffles at Pig & A Jelly Jar to all-you-can-eat French toast at Even Stevens and fresh-pressed juices at Roots, breakfast is no longer worth sleeping in to miss. And even if you don’t enjoy it when the sun comes up, Salt Lake City has you covered with cafes and diners serving all-day breakfast and even mobile establishments that practically come to you. Now, fine-dining restaurants are cashing in with high-end brunch, and you’ll find lots of Southern flair throughout the valley. Here are seven of our morning favorites:

Hot Cakes

Penny Ann’s Café

Penny Ann’s Café

Penny Ann’s Café began as a family affair in 2011 in Salt Lake City. Today, it takes siblings Penny Ann, Cindy, Warren and Paul, their children (Tiera, Kaitlyn, Rianna and Meaghan) and their parents (Wayne and Jane), plus additional staff, to keep two locations dishing out breakfast all day, seven days a week, (along with lunch until 3 p.m.). With the Draper location that opened in 2014, the entire valley now has easy access to Penny Ann’s most popular item: Heavenly Hot Cakes. These airy, sour cream pancakes are so remarkable that Penny Ann’s has gone so far as to trademark the name now emblazoned on the wall on their southern location. Why? “Hot cakes are normally an oversight at most places, so people are pleasantly surprised when they taste ours, and it keeps them coming back,” owner Paul Willey explains. Heavenly hot cakes come as a side with nearly every breakfast entrée so you don’t even need to choose between them and anything else—for example, the Pot of Gold, which features fried potatoes piled high with bacon, ham, sausage, peppers, onions and mushrooms and topped with cheddar cheese, two eggs and house-made sausage gravy. Just bring a second stomach for your hot cakes and top it all off with a cup of Olympus Roasters’ special Penny Ann’s blend. 1810 S. Main, SLC, 801-935-4760; 280 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-662-0009,

Pot of Gold

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Devour Utah • July/August 2015 17

Chicken on a Stick Saturday’s Waffle

Saturday’s Waffle

Meet the guys in bow ties. Here’s a breakfast and dessert concept of vintage trailer food-cart dining centered around the Liege waffle—containing chunks of pearl sugar for caramelized sweetness in every bite. Although sweet dessert waffles such as the maple bacon and bananas Foster —with slices of banana, cinnamon sauce, coconut whipped cream and cruncy pralines topping a warm Liege waffle—are what gave Saturday’s Waffle its start, you’ll also find savory creations like The Benny, Urban Lumberjack and caprese for your all-day dining pleasure. In 2014, Saturday’s Waffle’s Fried Chicken n’ Waffle on a stick was named the official food of the Utah State Fair. But you don’t have to wait for the fair to come along, just check the website for its mobile locations and social media for daily specials. 801-677-0600,

Bananas Foster

18 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

Curious Concoctions of

Professor Julian Raintree

Open Mon, Wed-Sat 11am to 6pm TheSteampunkSpectacle • Lower Level Center Court Trolley Square Devour Utah • July/August 2015 19

Barn Biscuits & Jam Dotties’s Biscuit Barn

Dottie’s Biscuit Barn

If you spot this mobile barn made of reclaimed materials rolling down the road, you know that warm flaky biscuits aren’t far behind. In its third summer, Dottie’s has become a regular farmers market favorite for buttermilk biscuits and jam or gravy. “People want a warm flaky biscuit they can take with them as they shop, grab coffee and make the rounds,” explains owner and chef Andrew Walter. “They’re hooked with the fresh biscuits.” New on the barn menu this year is The Cuddle Pig. It’s a biscuit cut in half, spread with pimento cheese and topped with a piece of fried chicken thigh, a ladle of sausage gravy and a fried egg from Clifford Family Farms. It’s finished with a spread of chow chow (pickled pepper relish). “It makes me so happy to see people eating our food and checking out the barn,” said Walter. “There is a connection made between simpler times and homemade food, and we wanted to provide that experience for people.” Find Dottie’s at the Downtown Farmers Market and the Wheeler Farm Wasatch Front Farmers Market every weekend as well as regular appearances at the Gallivan Plaza Food Truck Thursdays and with the Food Truck League’s Monday night events in Sugar House. Follow them on social media for all the latest biscuit news and locations. 801-231-9550, Facebook.comDottiesBiscuitBarn

The Cuddle Pig

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authentic Mexican Food

Patio now open 165 S. West Temple • SLC 801-533-8900

255 Main St • Park City 435-649-3097 (top of main)

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 21

Chicken & Biscuit Bistro 222

Bread Pudding French Toast Bistro 222

Bistro 222

At Bistro 222 in the heart of Salt Lake City, Chef Dave Bible and Caffé 222’s Erik Daniels have put their heads together for a city Sunday brunch experience like none other. From patio tables outside or floor-length windows inside, guests can take in the sights of Gallivan Plaza while enjoying a bloody mary bar that feels more like Seattle than Salt Lake City. Pickled asparagus, bacon skewers, jalapeños and a host of other goodies await. In recent years, the comforts of Southern food have begun to enthrall Utahns, so Bistro 222’s answer is the chicken in a biscuit. Chef Bible’s crispy fried chicken rests on a maple biscuit topped with house-made sausage gravy with just enough spice, plus a sunny-side egg. If sweet is what you’re craving for Sunday brunch, you can’t go wrong with the bread pudding French toast. They use day-old croissants and cinnamon and blackberries and then slice it, batter it and top it with whipped cream, fresh berries and Chef Daniels’ sweet dulce de leche. 222 S. Main, SLC, 801-456-0347,

The Current Bloody Mary

Forbidden Rice Granola Current Fish & Oyster

22 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

Current Fish & Oyster

Current is the hottest fine-dining establishment to hit the scene in 2015. Not wanting to miss out on the weekend brunch craze, Executive Chef Logen Crew and his team have put together some gorgeous dishes to be enjoyed on the restaurant’s expansive patio. Toast to the afternoon with the Current bloody mary, accented with a plump shrimp chaser. For the health conscious, dig into the Forbidden Rice Granola, sweetened with local honey and paired with caramelized pineapple and yogurt. Or, enjoy the seafood-focused spin on eggs Benedict with Current’s crab Benedict— highlighting moist crab cakes as a base for fresh tomatoes and avocado, a poached egg and hollandaise sauce. 279 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-326-3474,

Patino Ope

FaMily FriENdly

wE caTEr! bOuN


TiFul TO PrOvO

TE cajE S l O M N day MO

OPEN MON-Thur 11aM-9PM Fri-SaT 11aM-10PM SuN 12PM-9PM

3956 W. Innovation Drive (13400 S) 801-565-8818 •

Eclectic Modern American Craft Kitchen New Summer Menu & Cocktail List 3364 s 2300 e, SLC Devour Utah • July/August 2015 23

Croque Madame

Cut Oats



Brioche French Toast Garden Café

Located inside of Hotel Monaco, Bambara’s breakfast represents a broad spectrum of choices for hotel guests and locals alike. “Although the perennial favorites like bacon and eggs are always popular, it seems that many of our guests are looking for healthier alternatives, so our Irish steel cut oats with several choices of sweeteners and regular or soy milk has become increasingly popular,” Former General Manager Guy Wheelright said. But for those with their eyes on a more European (and more decadent) option, Executive Chef Nathan Powers delivers the Croque Madame, which he fell in love with in Europe. “I have always loved grilled cheese variants—patty melts, croques, etc.,” says Powers. Imagine a grilled ham and cheese sandwich with a thick, meaty ham slab topped with melted Gruyére cheese, and then slathered with béchamel cream sauce and a fried egg. If that isn’t enough, Bambara’s addicting herbed frites are served on the side with plenty of fried sage. 202 S. Main, SLC, 801-363-5454, Spinach quiche

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Garden Café at Grand America

Grand America’s opulent service extends all the way to its breakfast menu—available on the perfectly manicured patio all summer long. Guests have always enjoyed the Garden Café’s bread pudding, and the chefs recently added a new twist to the morning menu: Brioche French toast made with the famous bread pudding, cut into rectangles and then fried. It’s paired with fresh berries and warm maple syrup. On the savory side, enjoy a slice of spinach quiche, complemented with tangy tomato jam and fresh-made ricotta cheese. Or, add a bit of kick to your morning with the spicy chorizo frittata flaunting fluffy eggs, tomatillo sauce, red hot sauce and house-made chorizo with Mexican cheese melted on top. 555 Main, SLC, 810-258-6708,

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www.RuthSDiNeR.COM Devour Utah • July/August 2015 25


pread S Fried Branzino Fish with coconut cream, lime and chili jam

26 Devour Utah • July/August 2015


rovisions. What a perfect name for Tyler Stokes’ east-side eatery, a place that provides such comfort, hospitality and killer food and drink to go with it. There is so much to love here. The bold, colorful design by Rachel Hodson pops with liveliness just as the food from chef/owner Stokes’ kitchen sizzles and sparkles with flavor. He’s a Park City native who left Utah for Sun Valley, where he served as executive chef at Globus before opening his own restaurant, Dashi. Prior to that—as a teenager—he worked in the kitchen of Lugano, the very space that is now Provisions. Like me, loyal Provisions customers are happy that Stokes chose to return to Utah. Self-described as “an American craft kitchen,” the Provisions menu is brimming with wholesome, locally sourced (whenever possible), delicious dishes. The Niman Ranch steak tartare is the best iteration I’ve ever encountered, and pasta dishes like the tagliarini (ribbon pasta) with braised rabbit, speck and sage-brown butter sauce are rich, with deep, earthy flavors. The contemporary menu has Asian leanings, too, such as the whole fried branzino fish, which comes with unexpected coconut cream, lime and chili jam. Dishes like togarashi fried calamari with watercress and green chile-soy, or the “spice fried” quail, suggest that Stokes isn’t afraid to push culinary boundaries. Don’t believe me? Try the amazing Niman Ranch pig’s head torchon with cherry-ginger compote, butter leaf lettuce and pickled mustard seeds, then finish up with the molten Manjari chocolate cake and espresso ice cream. Provisions provides excitement. ❖

Tyler Stokes

Niman Ranch steak tartar

3364 S. 2300 East, SLC 801-410-4046 —Ted Scheffler Photos by Niki Chan Devour Utah • July/August 2015 27

Re-fashioning Coffee Salt Lake City’s burgeoning global coffee scene By Levi Rogers


atching the Steampunk coffee brewer at work is a bit like watching a science experiment: Bubbles boiling up in cylindrical glass crucibles. Brown coffee grounds are moistened with water droplets like grass after rain. Brewed coffee drains into a narrow glass tube where it is released (by pulling a wooden handle) into a cup—just like fresh beer from the tap. What you taste from here depends on many variables that went into the process—time, temperature, grind, agitation and of course, the origin of coffee itself. In 90 seconds you have a cup of drip coffee which can be perfectly replicated by anyone who can pull up the recipe on their touchscreen. It’s futuristic—as good or better than any pour over—and shows how far coffee has come in the past decade.

28 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

This industrial brewing machine isn’t manufactured in Italy or Seattle or any of the big cities you might expect to find great coffee machines made. The Steampunk is made right here in Salt Lake City and is just one example of how tuned in to the coffee scene Salt Lake City is becoming. However, when I tell people I co-own a coffee roasting company in Salt Lake City, La Barba Coffee, the reactions are varied, to say the least. “There’s good coffee in Utah? That people actually drink? Where?” Since I moved to Salt Lake City via Denver and Portland some years ago, I’ve seen the coffee scene grow exponentially. While there’s always been good coffee in Utah, our state is now a contributing member to a new, bourgeoning, global coffee scene. Many of the city’s finest coffee companies are putting their unique stamp on a new style and quality of coffee, with roasters and manufacturers gaining national and international renown.

Coffee pioneers

When coffee brewing manufacturer Alpha Dominche (which means “first of its kind”) moved to Utah in 2011 to begin production on the Steampunk brewer, the owners had no intention of selling anywhere in Salt Lake City because they thought no one would be interested. “We moved to Salt Lake not because of the coffee but because of the manufacturing. The production turnaround is great. Otherwise, we’d have to move to New Jersey (a large manufacturing hub),” says Jessica Tocci, who recently left Alpha Dominche. The Steampunk is just about to enter the European market, but this Utah product has already made its mark in Canada, Australia and a myriad places in Asia—from Jakarta to Singapore to Japan. It’s filling a need for a quality, automated brew machine that produces great drip coffee, not just espresso.

Alpha Dominche NIKI CHAN


Devour Utah • July/August 2015 29


Thomas Perez



CEO, Alpha Dominche

American Made

Soon, a handful of local roasters began to take notice, including Publik Coffee Roasters and Blue Copper Coffee Room. “Since we’ve started, we’ve seen so many great coffee companies come out of nowhere,” says Tocci. The inventor of the Steampunk, Khristian Bombeck, recently split off to start Saint Anthony Industries, another local coffee-goods manufacturing company. Bombeck says he’s seen Salt Lake City transform and become “more sophisticated and on par with what we’ve seen in other major metropolitan areas.”

His goal is to make baristas better— all with good design and simple ideas and processes. The company hand-makes espresso tampers with custom-designed wooden handles to fit portafilters (those metal and rubberhandled contraptions you see baristas using on espresso machines to pull shots), to within .002 of an inch, which helps coffee extraction. It also makes denim machinist aprons and a brewer called The Phoenix, which looks like a piece of space equipment hardware from 2001: A Space Odyssey. The company sells about half of its products nationally and half internationally to coffee shops around the world.

Signature Tamper



30 Devour Utah • July/August 2015


Saint Anthony Industries



for over 75 years


EXPERTS for corporate & employee gifts!

801.485.1031 | 2057 E. 3300 S. |

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 31


Roasting Co. 3CUPS.COFFEE

975 W Temple, SLC

But isn’t this all a bit much for plain-old coffee? A coffee renaissance has developed over the past decade. Matt Bourgeois, founder of Publik Coffee Roasters on West Temple, describes this shift as “the artisan approach,” from ambiguous blends to single origin coffee (think specific, regional farms). It’s the ability to taste nuance between region, variety, and country, much like wine. “We’re not just roasting dark,” Bourgeois says. “With each bean, we’re trying to find the sweet spot. We cup every day.” Cupping is the industry professional’s term for objectively grading or tasting coffee. When you walk into the new Hub & Spoke Diner, one of the first things you’ll notice—besides the huge painting of a deer on the wall—is a mini coffee-bar. Unlike most diners, the coffee served here is elevated from the typical cup of flat mediocre drip. “There’s a new appreciation for the story behind the product, understanding the roots behind it. Farmto-table can be a marketing term. But knowing the process is becoming a cultural value,” says Joe Evans, Hub’s beverage manager and former owner of NoBrow Coffee Werks, now Blue Copper Coffee Room. You could consider Evans, along with John Piquet of Caffe D’Bolla, the specialty coffee “original gangster” of Salt Lake City. Evans brought a multiroaster shop experience to town nine years ago, and a year before that, D’Bolla brought high-end roasting with siphon-brewed coffee and a large selection of rotating espressos.

From cozy to communal


Hub & Spoke’s Salted Bourbon Caramel alongside its breakfast-all-day meals.

32 Devour Utah • July/August 2015



Hub & Spoke

It used to be that coffee shops functioned as cozy spaces where one might meet a friend to play chess or sink into a couch with a favorite book. But with the rise of the work-from-home crowd, coffee shops have become as much workspaces as lounges, with an emphasis on clean, modern design and gorgeous aesthetics. A great example of a shop that has tied together form, function and quality to create a world-class suburban cafe is 3 Cups. When you walk into the Holladay spot, you find a large wooden communal table, pristine white walls, modern booths and a long bar situated with highend coffee equipment and inventive baked goods.



Devour Utah • July/August 2015 33



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Owner, 3 Cups

Thriving hub


Derek Bellnap

Brewed coffee with tasting notes like “rhubarb, lime, pineapple and toffee,” mix with lingering smells of freshly baked savory mushroom tarts. It’s a long way from the coffee shop of the recent past, filled with couches (think the famous Friends café) serving sugary pastries from some nameless factory and cinnamon topped, poorly pulled cappuccinos. Derek Bellnap is the owner and has been in the Salt Lake City coffee scene a long time—working for almost 10 years as a barista at The Coffee Garden, which, along with the Salt Lake Roasing Co., is one of the city’s original coffee shops. “I feel like I’ve seen it from the classic ’90s café with couches and chess to what it is now,” says Bellnap. “Now people want a more conducive space that’s good for both work, meetings and simply hanging out.” Bellnap says he wanted to create “a social space.” He wants his shop to appeal to “both the hipster and the mom with the stroller, but doesn’t isolate either of them.”

Every year the boundaries of what’s possible with coffee are pushed farther. Take Cody Kirkland, manager at The Rose Establishment, who is serving tea/coffee cocktails with his 17th-centuryera coffee punch. Yes, 17th century. Instead of using rum or other alcohol, he makes it with Guatemala coffee from Cold Brew Chemex coffee, rose black tea, turbinado sugar, fresh oranges, lemons and nutmeg. He created the drink as a New Year’s Eve special, but you may start to see cocktails like this become a regular item both at The Rose and elsewhere. There’s an elegance to creations like Kirkland’s. An elevation of coffee from a warm, black beverage drenched with cream and sugar to something more pronounced—from the looks of it, is here to stay. Salt Lake City now has a number of specialty coffee roasters. The specialty coffee model is

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Devour Utah • July/August 2015 35

Farmstead Cheese

Morning Cappuccino



The Rose Establishment

spreading further with Mason Jar Coffee in Ogden and a few others popping up from Provo to Heber. Brandon Despain of Caffe Ibis recently won the regional competition at the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s annual Roaster’s Choice competition. Yes, it’s safe to say coffee has undergone quite the reboot in Salt Lake City. You can write it off as hipster. As flashy. As overindulgent and pricey. But what you can’t deny is the quality, exuberance and nerdistry that come with it as well. Utah is a thriving hub of coffee. Now when someone asks me what my favorite shop in Salt Lake City is, I have a hard time answering. There are just so many. ❖

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Levi Rogers is co-owner of La Barba Coffee in Salt Lake City.

Urban EssEntials

Organics, groceries & snacks • Local beers Smokes & sundries • Excellent cold beverage selection! Kombucha & Emergen-C • Fresh seasonal fruit Ice cream • Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate

360 S. State Street (801) 328-2077

353 West 200 south, slC, Ut | 801.521.2106 7am-midnight Mon-sat; 10am-10pm sunday

Some people sing. Some people paint. I make eyeglasses. - John Cottam, Optician

602 East 500 South | 801.359.2020 | | Upper Level Center Court Trolley Square Devour Utah • July/August 2015 37


38 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

Log Haven Restaurant

Duck Confit Arancini 6451 E. Millcreek Canyon Road, SLC 801-272-8255


ince my wife, Faith, handles weddings and other special events at Log Haven restaurant, I’m privy to tasting many of chef Dave Jones’ menu items, sometimes even before they’re introduced to the public. A real knockout on the menu is Jones’ Duck Confit Arancini appetizer. Originating in Italy, arancini are rice balls, usually made with egg, cooked rice, cheese and seasoning, then breaded and deep-fried. They’re called arancini because, once cooked, they look similar to oranges, which, in Italian, are called arancia. Arancina means “little orange.” Jones kicks his arancini up a few notches, making them deliciously decadent by incorporating shredded duck confit (made in-house) into his risotto rice balls—arborio rice cooked with onion and celery in chicken stock and white wine. While Italians usually eat their arancini plain or with marinara, Jones serves his with a silky sauce smitane, a rich mélange of heavy cream, crème fraîche, Champagne vinegar, Dijon mustard, thyme, pepper, shallots and sweet onions. Kissed, finally, with tangy sour cherries, Log Haven reboots Italy’s classic arancini and elevates it to new heights. —Ted Scheffler Photos by Niki Chan Devour Utah • July/August 2015 39

Chef Profile 40 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

Jen Gilroy

A Vernal native brings Southern flavors to SLC’s south valley BY AIMEE L. COOK PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR


en Gilroy was supposed to be a literature professor. The Vernal native traveled to Tennessee to study English in college, and she imagined herself teaching the classics to undergraduates. But it was another college activity that would define her career path. “I worked my way through college in Nashville by waiting tables,” she says. “On occasion, they would let me play around with the chefs, and that’s what made me start to love food.” Still, she returned home after graduation and started on the path to tenure. But she couldn’t shake the joy she discovered in the kitchen and then there were the visions. She’d wake up craving dishes like the grilled octopus that she concocted in her sleep. So, she decided to follow her dreams. Starting at age 19, Gilroy went about getting experience doing everything and anything she could in the food business. She opened Meditrina, a small-plates cafe and wine bar, in 2008. That Salt Lake City spot has always had a taste of the South, but Gilroy has wanted to provide Utah diners with even more of her favorite food. She’s opening a new restaurant called Porch in early June at SoDa Row in South Jordan’s Daybreak. “You probably won’t see me bellied up to a big bowl of chitterlings, but for the most part, Southern food is comfort,” Devour Utah • July/August 2015 41

Meditrina’s Jen Gilroy

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she says. “I love the stories behind Southern food. Living in Nashville, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard a food story start with, ‘Well, my mama cooked her grits for 45 minutes…’ or how ‘red-eye gravy’ came to be …and so on.” The restaurant name—Porch— is fitting for a planned development where houses have been designed to get people out on their stoops. With 30-foot tall ceilings and plenty of outside dining, Porch has a relaxed atmosphere that Gilroy hopes gives patrons the feel they are dining al fresco at their own homes. If small plates with bold flavors and wine flights are Meditrina, then Southern comfort food with a local twist is Porch. Gilroy will be using as many organic, fresh and local products as possible to be the star ingredients in her new creative recipes, which she says are comfort foods with an upscale spin. Think a Utah trout dish or a local pork tenderloin served with a hoppin’ John, Gilroy’s version of a red beans and rice dish. Or meatloaf balls and Southern fried-chicken seasoned in a sweet tea brine. Gilroy says she’s always known she wanted to be her own boss. “It just took me a while to find the thing that did ignite my passion,” she says. “I worked for myself all the way back in sixth grade when I carried around a duffle bag of candy I sold to my classmates.” Gilroy takes her love of good, simple food and puts together daring concoctions of robust flavors and textures that seduce her customers in a way that sets her food apart. Because she taught herself by watching and experimenting, she has creative license to think outside the box. You won’t find an ordinary hamburger on one of her menus. Instead, venture to try the sliders made from natural ground beef, truffle, prosciutto, Granny Smith apples and brie with lemon aioli at Meditrina. “I don’t want anything to taste like anything else or have a similar theme,” she says. “I want everything to taste like its own little dish, that way I can do whatever I feel like, I’m not limited to a Latin flair or an Asian flair or even a Southern flair.” Creating and continuing to push herself forward motivate Gilroy. Loving what she does for a living and the people she does it with are the constant ingredients that feed her passion. “I would really like to play with small game birds like squab or quail,” she says. “They aren’t very forgiving, which is a challenge. But they can be slap-yo’-momma-good if done properly.” ❖

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Meditrina’s Curry Lime Prawns Jennifer Gilroy

1 tablespoon yellow curry powder 2 teaspoons cumin ½ teaspoon cayenne ¼ teaspoon dry ginger 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon butter 1 ½ cup half and half ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil or canola oil 1 ½ pounds peeled, deveined prawns In a small sauce pot, combine all dry ingredients, lime juice, and butter and whisk over medium heat until butter is melted. Add half and half, bring to a boil, reduce to simmer for 3-5 minutes. The sauce should be a little lighter than the color of yellow mustard. Remove from heat. In a large sauté pan, add oil and allow pan to get hot over medium-high heat before adding the prawns. Sear both sides of the prawns just until pink. Add curry lime sauce and simmer until prawns are done. (Remember— overcooked shrimp are not happy shrimp!)


Serve over basmati rice for an entrée or cucumber slices for an appetizer.

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Retail Therapy Rebooting the mall meal at Nordstrom Cafe Bistro STORY & PHOTOS BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ


ost Utah shoppers are familiar with the high fashion department store, Nordstrom. But what many might find surprising is that tucked away on the second floor, in the east corner of Fashion Place’s Nordstrom store, is a delightful hidden gem of a restaurant: the Nordstrom Cafe Bistro. It’s the perfect spot to fuel your shopping spree, perhaps in the way that the classic lunch counter at the Woolworth’s fiveand-dime did for previous generations. Wait … dining in a retail store? Don’t fret, this is no foo-foo, fancy-fare destination—although the ambiance is lovely. I daresay you couldn’t go wrong hosting a business lunch, an informal pow-wow with friends, or even having a first date here. You’ll find the Bistro serves delightfully hearty and satisfying, wellthought-out and often locally sourced, organic food. It’s a full-on, classact “bistro” with an open, wood-fired brick oven, roomy leather booths, larger tables and even little quiet corners to escape the world (and the mall) while dining on an array of fresh soups, sandwiches, pastas, meaty dishes, desserts and meals made for kids. You’ll notice families, business executives, children, and yes, the “ladies who lunch,” because, like all experienced shoppers, they know where the good food is to be found. Plus, the interior of the restaurant has a sunny wall of windows to greet customers and remind us that there is a world beyond the mall’s walls. The bustling, open Bistro kitchen cranks out pizzas and flatbreads from the wood-burning oven, and it’s fun to watch the cooks working in unison assembling fresh salads, ladling soups and preparing entrees under the direction of lead chef, Jeremy Matthews. I’ve been eating at this particular Nordstrom cafe for nearly 20 years, and I’m convinced that Matthews plays a large part in the restaurant’s most recent success. Matthews got his start in the Nordstrom espresso bar in 1996 and worked his way to the top last March. Not via direct route, however, taking time to serve as a salesperson on the retail floor and working on his own record label for a few years. Now at the helm in the kitchen, he is training new chefs around the country and in Canada. “Where else can one go from sales to chef? Nordstrom has provided me with a wonderful career,” Matthews says. Indeed, Matthews recently returned from a stay in Canada saying, “I was given the opportunity to travel to Ottawa to help with Nordstrom’s second

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arts e th to t e k c ti r u o y

Abravanel Hall Janet Quinney Lawson Capitol Theatre Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center


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r oa s t i n g .c o m Devour Utah • July/August 2015 47

Nordstrom’s Katey Lapp checks for perfection

Tomato Basil Soup

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Nordstrom Chef Jeremy Matthews.

international opening. The restaurant concept there is called Bazille, and is a full-service restaurant similar to the Bistro, but slightly more upscale with a full bar.” That experience left a taste in his mouth for mentoring future chefs. And that’s no surprise, seeing what he’s done in his career at Nordstrom. Along with the regular menu, Matthews offers a daily, seasonal chef’s special in the Bistro. “I love our White Chocolate Bread Pudding, our Salmon Niçoise Salad and the Prime Rib French Dip which, in my humble opinion, is the best in the city,” he says. “For people unfamiliar with our food, everything is made fresh, in-house. I promote high standards of quality and presentation.” However, it’s the popular cilantro-lime shrimp salad with roasted corn and toasted wontons that’s the biggest Bistro crowd-pleaser. “It pays the bills. Everyone loves this salad, so it’s on the menu year-round,” he adds. While so many “corporate” chefs spend time battling the powers that be and fighting to put their own stamps on menus, Matthews is clearly a team player who makes the most of the freedom bestowed on him from on high. “I love the [Nordstrom] support system and customer service-oriented approach. And while the Bistro menu is set, I still have the freedom to design fun and interesting specials that help support our overall concept and challenge the expectations of our clientele. And the other favorite thing about my job is being able to help guide the careers of young culinarians. I love it when my

employees get promoted, and I love seeing their pride in a job well done.” Unlike many chain eateries—so ubiquitous in the contemporary mall and shopping center food court— Nordstrom Cafe Bistro is committed to bringing diners local, sustainable, natural and organic foods and environmentally friendly products. Health-conscious eaters will notice cage-free eggs, bovine-growthhormone-free milk, organic produce including baby lettuce, baby spinach and arugula, along with organic iced tea, and products that are free from hydrogenated and partially hydrogenated fats or oils. In addition, Nordstrom has committed to the “reduce, reuse and recycle” philosophy—not something you’d have found at the old five-and-dime lunch counter. Pizzas at the Bistro are fresh and perfect for a quick snack—as an appetizer or to share at the table, or as lunch, perhaps with a side salad. When in-between meals, the pizzas are perfect midafternoon pick-me-ups, along with a glass of fresh brewed iced tea or lemonade. There is a wine menu as well, with a special red and white wine featured daily, in case you need a happy-hour fix to get through the rest of your shopping day a little more “relaxed.” Happy shopping! ❖



The festival that proves Utah LOVES beer!

Nordstrom Bistro dishes Here are five favorites for grown-ups and kids alike:

Saturday, August 15


ANGEL HAIR PASTA WITH CHICKEN Think “lighter” but “filling.” Unlike typically dense, chain-restaurant chicken-parmesan sauces, a mild light tomato sauce highlights the perfectly pounded-and-seared boneless chicken breast served with lemon-tossed angel hair pasta (gluten-free upon request). An oyster mushroom and rosemary butter sauce enhances this flavorful dish, which is also a kidpleaser from the menu and can be prepared sans-chicken for vegetarians.

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Devour Utah • July/August 2015 49


FRENCH DIP SANDWICH The French dip is made with what I call the “fantasy beef” of all French dips. It is juicy Prime rib—a generous helping of it—on a beautiful baguette with a spot-on au jus. It’s served with herbed frites that are to die for, along with Kalamata olive dip.

4. 3.

SALMON NIÇOISE SALAD The salmon Niçoise salad is gluten-free, tossed with organic baby green lettuces, herb-and-Dijon roasted salmon, French green beans, Kalamata olives, petite tomatoes, red onions, potatoes, egg, capers and kissed with a Dijon balsamic vinaigrette. 50 Devour UtahA• classic. July/August 2015

WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING This is a real crowd-pleaser. If you’d like to try your hand at making it yourself, the recipe is featured in the Nordstrom Family and Friends Cookbook. It’s by far the most popular dessert in the Cafe Bistro, but there’s also tempting chocolate cake and seasonal dessert items as well. Each meal closes with a gratis chocolate mint stick.

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MACARONI & CHEESE Not surprisingly, The Bistro Cafe’s mac and cheese is my son’s go-to dish, forgoing even the juiciest burger as his favorite menu option. A side of fresh fruit comes with kids’ meals as well as a little box of organic raisins with a coloring page to keep them occupied while awaiting their food. There are also chicken tenders, grilled cheese, and pizza as childmenu choices.

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Maryann Alston Farming and the apocalypse We sold everything. It almost looks like we were preparing for the end of the world. We just decided we wanted to live a more humble existence. It’s allowed us to have freedom to do what we love and not worry so much about house payments.

Beauty in urban ag It [could be] easy for us to say, ‘It is too difficult to do urban agriculture based on city restrictions and going plot to plot.’ We realized it’s cool what we’re doing. We have 30 acres spread throughout Salt Lake County full of vegetables. It creates little oases within the city and little glimpses of agriculture.

Seizing the day We’ve always been passionate about growing our own food and living as simply as possible. Then we were working real jobs and realized, ‘This isn’t us.’ [Now] we’re able to be with our little boys all the time. That’s why

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The marketing and farming whiz (along with her husband, Marty) behind Wasatch Front Farmers Market and Urban Farm & Feed store (moving from Murray to Holladay in July) on how owning a shop is better than owning a house.

we do it: To eat healthy and provide people good food. It’s the whole seizethe-day mentality.

Lots of people think we’re absolutely crazy. I don’t disagree. This is the way of life we know and we want. Why the chickens crossed the road One of my customers [at Urban Farm & Feed] came in to get eggs, and she’s like, ‘Are your chickens the ones always walking over to the Draper library?’ We are first-generation farmers, first-generation chicken owners, firstgeneration goat owners. I want us to set the precedent: ‘If you dream it, you can do it.’ That’s why we started the farmers markets in the suburbs. There wasn’t

room for us at the downtown farmers market.

What’s on her locals-only picnic menu Strawberry-mint lemonade from Psychedelic Citrus. Salsa del Diablo’s fresh-roasted salsa and Salsita Mendoza tortilla chips. Fruit tarts from Bubble & Brown Bakery. Canyon Meadows hamburger sliders on Hungry Bear Bake Shoppe asiago cheese rolls with Earth First Organics lettuce mix, Keep it Real Vegetables’ onions and 3 Squares Produce tomatoes. Topped with cheese from the Epicurean Chefs.

Farm & Feed in Holladay We’ll be selling our own produce and carrying produce from fellow farmers. We want to be a real destination and have all the stuff an urban farmer would need and all the produce and vegetables and honey and eggs that people want. ❖ —INTERVIEW BY HEATHER MAY

Visit us online at

Devour Utah • July/August 2015 53

Sippers Worth a By Darby Doyle • Photos by Derek Carlisle

“The cure for anything is salt water Sweat, tears, or the sea —Isak Denesen


ove over margarita. Salt is elevating cocktails all over the sipping scene, and not only on the fancy glass rim. This marvelous mineral mellows bitter flavors, punches up sweet notes and brightens pucker-inducing sours, making it a popular addition to chocolate, caramel and citrusy desserts for decades. More recently, you’ll find salt in cocktails to support similar alcoholic alchemy. Whether mixed with spice for a savory addition to a beer cocktail, added with a generous pinch to the shaker, or sprinkled over a drink just before presentation, salt adds that subtle kick that takes your cocktail game from adorable to arse-kicking with one simple step.

The Drink

The Dutch Bicycle

The Salt Redmond’s Real Salt

The Maker Under Current Bar 279 S. 300 East, SLC 801-574-2556


magining “a romantic bicycle ride along the coast, sea salt and fresh air,” barman Ryan Manning concocted this light and refreshing combo of Bols Genever gin from Amsterdam, Green Chartreuse, lime, house chamomile syrup and a nice pinch of Utah’s own Redmond sea salt for balance. Patio sippin’ doesn’t get much better than this.

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The Drink

Sangre del Toro

The Salt Coarse sea salt

The Maker Bodega 331 S. Main, SLC 801-532-4042


ow this is day drinking at its finest: blanco tequila, clamato tomato juice, lime, Sriracha, sea salt and Bodega’s Borracho IPA served in a tall glass with a rim of Tejin spice mixed with an equal portion of coarse sea salt. A sassy take on a classic Mexican cooler called a Michelada, Bodega serves its with some pickled shrimp, to boot. Devour Utah • July/August 2015 55

The Drink The Salt

Kosher salt

The Maker O. P. Rockwell 268 Main, Park City (downstairs) 435-615-7000


his 19th-century hair-of-the-dog is a darling of modern-cocktail revivalists, and not just in the morning. Whether used in its original eye-opening prescription or gracing the cocktail hour by candlelight in a glam speakeasy, it’s a clear winner. By requesting a pinch of salt to the shaker, this classic combo of gin, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc (an aperitif wine), lemon juice and absinthe gets a subtle balancing nudge. Salt makes the citrus pop, and the gin gets a little herbaceous boost.

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Comfort Food


don’t remember the first time I heard the term “comfort food,” but I’ve sure heard it a lot in the past couple decades. According to Wikipedia, comfort food “is traditional food which often provides a nostalgic or sentimental feeling to the consumer,” i.e., mom’s cooking. For me, that means chicken & dumplings. And, it goes without saying that comfort food ought to be a bit naughty. High carbs and calories are the hallmarks of most comfort food. Who’s ever called a grapefruit comforting? Food trends come and go, and so do comfort foods. Takashi Gibo and his wife Tamara (of Takashi restaurant) were recently telling me about the excellent yakitori they enjoyed in Japan. That skewered, grilled chicken is comfort food for anyone who’s lived in Japan. But it’s making a lot of noise lately in the USA, too, just as ramen is. Dedicated yakitori shops and stands are popping up everywhere, and I can’t wait until one finds its way here. These days—unlike with ramen and yakitori, where the goal is usually tradition and authenticity—many American chefs and cooks are giving comfort foods a reboot. It’s sort of like when I tricked out my mom’s old 1964 Chevy Nova. Chefs are restyling comfort-food classics for more modern palates. Take the not-so-classic corn dog at Whiskey Street, for example. These bad boys are made with braised pork belly that’s battered and fried in cornmeal and comes with spicy-sweet mango mostarda. And how about Chef Zane Holmquist’s revisionist hot dog at Stein Eriksen Lodge? It’s a magical melding of two comfort food classics: a quarter-pound, all-beef hot dog and bun smothered in macaroni and cheese, then topped with dill pickles. According to Holmquist, “The kids love it, but we have lots of adults ordering it from room service, too!” Over at the Grand America, opulence abounds—even when it comes to comfort food. Executive Chef Fernando Soberanis’ Garden Cafe pot pies probably won’t remind you too much of those you grew up with. His is brimming with sweet lobster meat and fresh veggies, highlighted by the perfectly crisp and airy puff pastry made by Executive Pastry Chef Xavier Baudinet. If chicken wings are your idea of comfort food, try Soberanis’ Korean-inspired wings with sweet-spicy kalbi glaze and blue cheese aioli. These ain’t your daddy’s wings! Is there a better example of Mexican comfort food than the street taco? I doubt it. At Taqueria 27 Chef/Owner Todd Gardiner has taken the basic template and completely reworked it. His high-style tacos range from succulent duck confit with chipotle crema and crisp leeks to a vegetarianfriendly grilled pear and roasted beet taco with Ted Scheffler writes spinach, blue cheese and balsamic syrup. about food, wine Oh, and that grilled cheese sandwich you’ve always and travel for Salt loved so much? Melty Way shops have them in Lake City Weekly spades, but also offer a modernist take on the classic: and other local and a grilled cheese sandwich with provolone, marinated national publications. artichokes, grape tomatoes and basil pesto. In his spare time, As Peter Allen sang, Everything old is new again. ❖ he rides herd over

his ever-expanding guitar collection.

Retail Hours: Friday 12-5, Saturday 10-2 155 West Malvern Ave. | 801.680.8529 SaltandSmokeMeats.Com 58 Devour Utah • July/August 2015

Whiskey Street Not-so-classic corn dog

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