Aquitane Magazine 2012

You won’t want to leave !

eco-tourism

zero carbon holidays

getting away mountain thrills in the

pyrenees top tips

unique

guest houses for under

100 â‚Ź

weekend breaks

all year round city breaks

© J.J. Saubi

guest

Born in Algeria, ex-diving champion and former Art Deco student Michel Trama hadn’t planned on a career in haute cuisine. But meeting his wife Maryse set him on a new path. In 1974, they opened Parisian bistro Sur le Pouce.

Four years later and wanting to get out of the capital, they found themselves a few miles from Agen, with a country guest house in the pretty medieval village of Puymirol. A revelation. Since then, the small guest house has become a part of luxury A good dish to start the hotel chain Relais & Chateaux, and holidays? the chef at Les Loges de l’Aubergade Something very simple: a roast trawls the markets of Lot-et-Garonne chicken with a few wild mushrooms each week in search of the very best and potatoes, or a salt-crusted sea bass with a fresh vegetable ratatouille. and the unexpected.

Michel Trama: I love the sea. I head towards Cap-Ferret or Biarritz. I like the wild beauty of the sea on the Basque Coast. There’s room to breathe, it’s very beautiful.

A place to eat lunch?

Le Tram’s in Agen. It’s run by my son Dominique and has colourful decor and a young atmosphere.

Restaurant "Chez Hortense" The food is fusion cuisine, ranging from the traditional blanquette de veau to Chinese dishes.

In the Bassin d’Arcachon, I love the famous moules frites at Chez Hortense, served right at the water’s edge.

The Aquitaine I love.

Which market is worth a look around?

I’m a huge fan of the farmers market in the Place du Pin in Agen. The products are beautiful and fresh, the producers don’t cut corners. I find great vegetables, little miniature dandelions, poireaux de vignes (Mediterranean wild garlic), wild strawberries to die for... © OT Périgueux

One of your favourite walks?

n Les Loges de L’Aubergade 52 rue Royale – 47270 Puymirol Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 95 31 46 www.aubergade.com

© F. Perrogon

And for dinner? Le Carré Gourmand, near Agen. This old manor house, set in traditional grounds, is run by a former head waiter from l’Aubergade. The chef cooks traditional cuisine with good local produce: langoustine salad, grilled cuttlefish with ventrèche, plum and pineapple ratatouille...

I know I’d have trouble resisting the Hôtel du Palais in Biarritz: the elegant surroundings, the rooms with unbroken views of the sea... It’s divine! © CRTA/J.J. Brochard

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n Restaurant Le Trams ZAC Agen sud – rue du Trech 47000 Agen Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 98 48 14 www.letrams.com

La Toscane Française en Lot-et-Garonne

Will you ever feel like leaving Aquitaine?

I’m a great walker, I love wandering the Lot-etGaronne countryside. I take the sun and the clear autumn light with me, as well as the smells that change with the seasons, like the scent of wild mushrooms as the days get shorter... I couldn’t live without it!

© CRTA/A. Béguerie

...and to sleep?

n La Ferme de Souleilles Yves et Geneviève Boissière 47140 Frespech Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 41 23 24 www.souleilles-foiegras.com

n Restaurant chez Hortense Avenue du Sémaphore 33950 Lège-Cap-Ferret Tel. : +33 (0) 5 56 60 62 56 www.chezhortense.fr n Restaurant Carré Gourmand 2 Rue Montalembert – 47550 Boé Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 95 22 22 www.carregourmand.com n Hôtel du Palais 1, avenue de l’Impératrice 64200 Biarritz Tel.: +33 (0)5 59 41 64 00 www.hotel-du-palais.com n Marché fermier Place du Pin – 47000 Agen

OPEN ACCESs IN THE CRADLE OF HUMANKIND

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© Biarritz Tourisme - Le Doare

© Préhisto Parc

GOING WITH THE FLOW

© CRTA/L. Reiz

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ACTIVE HOLIDAYS

edito

It’s often said that there’s a bit of everything in nature. Well, without doubt, there’s a bit of everything in Aquitaine. Only three hours from Paris by TGV, the plan is simple: enjoy yourself.

Discover a chateau and vineyard with your children, drift along the still waters of the Dordogne in a canoe, party on the Bordeaux waterfront, stay in an eco-stamped hotel, go in search of Basque pie noir pigs in the Pyrenees, get stuck in in the kitchens of a great chef, walk the Way of St. James... with this brochure, the Aquitaine Regional Tourism Committee invites you to explore the countless faces of a region that’s a great place to come to recharge your batteries at any time of year.

Can’t get enough of it? Join our website www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr or like Tourisme d’Aquitaine on Facebook!

4 children

Fun and games in the vineyard

12 ECO-TOURISM

Zero carbon activities

15 Discovery everyone’s

Welcome in the Cradle of Mankind

19 FOOD

“Get stuck in”

etting away 21 gMountain thrills in the Pyrenees ity break 24 cFour seasons in Aquitaine country 29 WIn ine Bas-Armagnac

ell-being 30 WSoothing retreats itness 32 fActive holidays

portfolio 6 Discovery

Going with the flow

shopping

26 Historic brands

Accommodation 14 ECO-ToURISM Eco-stamped accommodation 20 budget chic Unique stays for under 100 €

plus 2 guest

Michel Trama tells us about his Aquitaine

18 mystery quiz

How well do you know Aquitaine?

27 RECipeS

© Getty Image

LEISURE

Traditional dishes from the region

34 HORoSCOPe

for your holiday

35 MAP of AQUITAine

Brochure edited by the Aquitaine Regional Tourism Board: Cité Mondiale - 23 parvis des Chartrons CS 31759 - 33074 Bordeaux Cedex - France; Tel.: +33(0)5 56 01 70 00 - Fax: +33(0)5 56 01 70 07. Web: tourisme-aquitaine.fr. Design, production: Citron Pressé - Editor: SLS Conseil - Illustrations: Yann Hamonic - Printing: Laplante. Document printed on certified PEFC paper from sustainably managed forests under control chain no. FCBA/10 - 01295 Page 20: prices indicative for 2011..

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familyactivities Médoc, Duras, Entre-deux-Mers... Discover Aquitaine’s vineyards en famille: while you taste the vineyard’s wines in the company of the wine maker or cellar master, your children can enjoy exciting treasure hunts among the vines and have fun in areas designed especially for them.

It’s also a good chance to learn more about the culture surrounding wine and its moderate consumption.

Fun and games

A short way from the Chateau de Duras which dominates the Dropt valley, the Maison des Vins de Duras, in collaboration with Cap Sciences, has devised a hands-on educational space for all ages called “the keys to the vineyard”: on arrival you will receive two questionnaires, one for the parents, the other for the kids. What time of year was this photo of the vineyard taken? What is that fruity smell? Sight and smell are put to the test, and it’s not always the oldest who have all the answers...

The visit continues outside with a walk through the Vine Garden to “see for yourself how vines are grown” and to learn to distinguish the sauvignon or cabernet franc grape varieties.

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Another vineyard, but still the same desire to welcome all the family.

At Chateau Cablanc in Saint-Pey-de-Castets in Gironde, uncover the “Secrets of

Have your children caught the bug? Take them to visit Annick and Gille Pons, wine makers in Casseneuil, also in Lot-de-Garonne. Wait, who is this character inviting you to follow her into the vineyard, which makes Vin de Pays d’Agenais wine? It’s Ludivigne, looking lovely with vine leaves for her hair. From display to display, she will accompany you as you discover the land

© CRTA/Château Cablanc

Wake up your senses on the Duras coast

different seasons. “Our aim in creating this tour was to give children something to do around the farm,” explains Annick Pons. It’s mission accomplished every year from May to September: at the beginning of the walk the children are enthusiastic and don’t hesitate to ask questions while their parents taste the wines we grow.

Grape juice tasting Educational tours with Ludivigne

© Lou Gaillot

“Dad, what are you drinking?”

“Daddy, what are all these barrels?”

“Mum, when are we going?”...

While most wine makers today are open to adults, offering cellar tours and tasting of the wines produced on the property, these traditional visits are rarely very exciting for children.

In Aquitaine, some wine makers understand this. Hands on exhibitions, educational tours and treasure hunts mean you can take advantage of the region’s numerous vineyards during your holiday to introduce your children to the world of wine growing and the work done by wine makers through the seasons.

© Maison du vin Côtes de Duras

in aquitaine’s vineyards

that gives the grape varieties their characteristics and the jobs to be done in all the

the Valley” a fun walk guided by a family of European mink. Some individuals of this rare and endangered species actually nest on the lands of the Chateau du Bordelais.

The circular walk begins outside the cellar and each child wears a pouch around their

© Castillo de Agassac

waist carrying crayons and worksheets with games, codes and other puzzles to solve. Back at the cellar, it’s tasting time: “we make it a game right up to the end: While the adults get to know our wines, the youngsters taste grape juice,” explains Daniele Debart, wine maker. “It’s also an opportunity to raise awareness of the risks of excess consumption of alcohol.”

Learn while having fun

© Planète Bordeaux

Make the most of your stay in Entre-deuxMers by stopping off at Planète Bordeaux in Beychac-et-Caillau. This unique location, 20 minutes from Bordeaux has a dedicated area for children with an animated

Interactive tours at Chateau d’Agassac, Médoc.

film showing the four seasons of the vine, early learning games and books to get to know the land and the work done on it.

Each child can then put their senses to the test: sight through looking at colours; smell with scented displays; touch with wood and cork; and finally taste by tasting two grape juices made from the same vines as the wines being tasted by their parents. They fill in a wine tasting initiation sheet and leave with a young taster’s certificate. This handson educational experience has been singled out by the International Best Of Wine Tourism, another good reason to pay it a visit.

Save the princess from the dragon’s claws On the other side of Bordeaux, south of Médoc, another adventure is waiting for all the family at Château d’Agassac, a treasure trove of tales and legends with its needlelike towers, conical roofs and water-filled moats. Kitted out with iPods loaned for the duration of the visit, your children have a mission: to free the princess of Agassac, held captive in one of the towers for centuries by a dragon. The audio and video clips immerse them in a medieval universe, and

the best part of all is that on completing the quest they are awarded a certificate making them a knight or princess of the Domain of Agassac.

Who said a visit to a vineyard in Aquitaine was boring for the children?

All the visits cited are offered in French and English. n Maison des vins de Duras - RD 668 47120 Duras - Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 94 13 48 www.cotesdeduras.com n Domaine Lou Gaillot Annick et Gilles Pons - « Les Gaillots » 47440 Casseneuil Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 41 04 66 www.lougaillot.com n Château Cablanc 33350 Saint-Pey-de-Castets Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 40 52 20 www.chateaucablanc.com n Planète Burdeos - RN89 - Sortie 5 33750 Beychac-et-Caillau Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 97 19 36 www.planete-Burdeos.fr n Château d’Agassac 15 rue du château d’Agassac 33290 Ludon-Médoc Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 88 15 47 www.agassac.com

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by Laurent Reiz

PortFolio

After a career as a photo-journalist with GEO, Laurent Reiz chose to devote himself to another view of landscapes.

He began producing postcards, photographing the locations and spaces under different light conditions and at different angles. Estuary, river, pool, lake or current, Laurent Reiz gives an original view of the ever-present water in Aquitaine.

Going

with

Whether it’s a river in Penne d’Agenais, Lot-et-Garonne (top photo) or a lake in Sanguinet in Landes, water is present in many forms in Aquitaine.

In the port at the feet of the hillside village of Penne d’Agenais, hire a gabarot – a small flat bottomed boat – to sail on the Lot. Meanwhile, the 5 800 hectare Lac de Sanguinet offers a wide range of activities, from bathing to kite surfing and waterskiing.

the flow...

Viewed from the Quai de Queyries in Bordeaux, on the north bank of the Garonne, the façades of the Port de la Lune are at their most beautiful.

Designated as a world heritage site by Unesco, the magnificent array of eighteenth century façades shines in the morning sun, providing an ideal backdrop for a lunch on the terrace or a visit to the colourful Sunday market.

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by Laurent Reiz

PortFolio

Below the newly renovated Art Deco building housing the Musée de la Mer, the Rocher de la Vierge (top photo) is one of the must-see attractions of Biarritz.

Shaped like the prow of a ship, it was used as an anchorage point for the port of refuge planned by Napoleon III. But the fickle sea had other ideas.

Cross the footbridge built in the Eiffel workshops and lose yourself in the vastness of the landscape before you: on one side, the bay of Biarritz and its long beach, on the other the Plage des Basques and the line of the Pyrenees in the distance.

In Bayonne, the Quai de l’Amiral Jauréguiberry is bordered by seventeenth century houses. Built on stilts on the banks of the Nive, they have beautiful half-timbered façades in Basque red, yellow, blue and green.

Find a seat on one of the restaurant terraces at the waterside and admire the Moulis house, the most striking of them all, on the corner of Rue de la Poissonnerie.

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by Laurent Reiz

PortFolio

At the heart of the Lot valley, the walled town of Villeneuve-sur-Lot is located half way between Fumel and the confluence of the Lot and the Garonne at Aiguillon.

The stone Pont de Cieutats has the unusual feature of two small arches dating from the thirteenth century on the left and one large arch constructed in the seventeenth century on the right.

Cross it on foot to enjoy the beautiful view of the quays bordered by tall houses, reflected in the Lot, and visit the chapel of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont, raised by boatmen to implore the clemency of the river.

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Two other such sentinels, two cabanes tchanquĂŠes are to be found in the middle of the Bay of Arcachon on the Ile aux Oiseaux. These houses on stilts have replaced an authentic cabin built by an oyster farmer to survey his oyster beds, inspired by shepherds who stood on tianques (stilts) to watch their sheep.

You can view these cabins all year round without disembarking by taking a boat tour of the Ile aux Oiseaux.

by Laurent Reiz

PortFolio

The true watch-tower of the Dordogne river, the Chateau de Beynac, is one of 1001 chateaux in the Dordogne valley. Around ten kilometres from Sarlat-la-CanĂŠda, it towers over the picturesque alleys of the medieval village of Beynac-et-Cazenac at the heart of the PĂŠrigord Noir.

From the cliff-top it continues to defy the fortress of Castelnaud perched on the opposite bank of the Dordogne.

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by Laurent Reiz

PortFolio

Half way between Sarlat-la-Canéda in Périgord Noir and Bergerac in Périgord Pourpre, the Dordogne offers a magnificent spectacle, carving out a large meander in the tranquil countryside.

To admire the curve of Trémolat – from the name of the village nestled on the eastern side of the loop – take the route des cingles which climbs through the forest of oak and pine bringing you to the neighbouring curve, that of Limeuil.

A trip in an Amazonian dugout canoe?

No problem!

You will be carried along by the Courant d’Huchet, one of several coastal rivers in Landes flowing directly into the sea.

Leaving the Lac de Léon, board a galupe – a traditional flat bottomed boat – and let yourself be guided by one of the exuberant boatmen between rushes, lilies, weeping willows and maritime pines.

In this gallery forest, a designated nature reserve, you may even cross paths with an otter or grey heron...

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by Laurent Reiz

PortFolio

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ECO-Tourism On foot, by bike, by canoe, by paraglider, or again by galupe, marvel at the unending riches on offer in Aquitaine. All while taking your time and protecting the environment from any pollution.

L eisure

activities

Zero-carbon

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sun. It’s already time to pick up your paddles again and be carried downstream to the castles of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle and Beynac-et-Cazenac.

Dordo g n e

Kayaking on the Dordogne Have fun discovering the landscapes of the “valley with 1001 chateaux” (and the prettiest villages in France!). Take to the water in Carsac-Aillac, a few miles from Sarlat-laCanéda, capital of Périgord Noir. On your right, water lilies and lotus flowers bloom in the Carsac Water Gardens. A little further on, admire the Chateau de Montfort, dominating the curve of the same name.

After a few more twists and turns you will be able to make out the walled village of Domme, perched on a 150 metre high cliff.

As a grey heron takes to the air, continue your voyage to Roque-Gageac. Why not stop off for a picnic in this picturesque village? Between cliffs and river, the pale limestone houses glow golden in the Périgord

Perigord Noir distric tourism office « La Balme» - 24220 Beynac-et-Cazenac Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 29 43 08 www.cc-perigord-noir.fr

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Lot - e t - Ga ro n n e

Cycling the Garonne canal towpath

© Stand Up Paddle Perigord

Your bike ride along the cycle path that runs alongside the Canal des Deux Mers begins in Castets-en-Dorthe, 10 km from Langon in Gironde. While barges wait to pass through lock no. 53 (the first on the canal), get on your bike and set out on the 87 km route crossing the department of Lot-etGaronne.

Km 20: The first stop of many, the balconyvillage of Meilhansur-Garonne offers New in Perigord Noir: a unique view over a stand up paddle beautiful loop of the boarding Garonne.

France’s premier centre Km 22: leave the towfor stand up paddle path to visit Gens de boarding on rivers opened Garonne, where you in 2010 in Cénac-etcan see a 3D film titSaint-Julien on the banks of the Dordogne. A new watersport derived from surfing, stand up paddle boarding (or SUP) is practised on long, wide, very stable boards with a large paddle.

Fun, easy and accessible to all, it’s an ideal way to discover the charms of the Dordogne.

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© CRTA/L. Reiz

n Stand Up Paddle Périgord - Le Couderc 24250 Cénac-et-Saint-Julien - Tel.: +33 (0)5 53 30 34 58 www.sup.perigord.com

led “La Garonne sous toutes ses Couthures” (Garonne in all its guises). This is also a chance to see the “au cœur des crues” (at the heart of the floods) exhibit, a narrated and interactive exhibit sharing the lives of the inhabitants of the Garonne Valley, to the fickle rhythm of the floods.

Km 40: after crossing the lush Garonne plain with its well watered crops, the cycle path comes alongside the river once more at Le Mas d’Agenais, an attractive village with its church, Saint-Vincent, and charming wash-house.

Villeton, Damazan, Buzet-sur-Baïse, Montesquieu, Sérignac-sur-Garonne...There are numerous opportunities for stops before you reach the terminus of this bike ride: the canal bridge in Agen.

Gens de Garonne 47180 Couthures-sur-Garonne.

Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 20 67 76 www.gensdegaronne.com www.canauxdumidi.com

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Landes

Boating on the Courant d’Huchet To the north of Moliets, in the Landes, take to the water with a boatman in a galupe, a traditional flat bottomed boat, and float

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ECO-Tourism

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

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down to the sea from the Lac de Léon.

While your guide steers the boat through the luxurious vegetation of this nature reserve – the Courant d’Huchet is also known as the “Amazon of the Landes” – immerse yourself in this mysterious and spellbinding environment, and look out for the local wildlife: a purple heron watching a fish here, a tree frog or oscillated lizard there... Perhaps you will even catch a glimpse of a European mink, an endangered species.

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©

CRTA

/A.

Bég

uer

Pyrenees-Atl an ti qu es

Walking the Ways of St James All roads lead to Pyrénées-Atlantiques!

It’s here, in the Basque and Béarnaise countryside, that the four great pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela converge: the Arles, Le Puy, Tours and Vézelay routes.

Signposted in 2009, the Piémont route (GR 78) is a variant of the Arles route which connects Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Lestelle-Bétharram in seven stages.

All along this historic route, you can enjoy

a magnificent panoramic view of the peaks of the Pyrenees, while passing through remarkable sites of historic or natural interest: venture deep inside the stalactiteand stalagmite-filled caves of Bétharram, admire the bell tower in the medieval village of Bruges, pass through Oloron-SainteMarie at the confluence of the Ossau and Aspe mountain rivers, visit the hispanomoresque church, L’Hôpital-Saint-Blai, designated a Unesco world heritage site, and stop off in Ordiarp, a natural balcony overlooking the Pyrenees..

The adventure begins with climbing the highest dune in Europe: in front of you stretches the blue of the Atlantic Ocean, broken only by the constantly shifting Banc d’Arguin, the biggest sandbank on the Aquitaine coast. Turn around and admire another ocean, that of the vast pine forest. Then, like Mathilde Seigner in the film Camping 2, take off together with your professional instructor and discover the Bay of Arcachon as you’ve never seen it before: fishing ports, oyster beds, the Cap-Ferret headland with its lighthouse, the Ile aux Oiseaux with its two stilted cabanes tchanquées...

A little further on, your instructor will show you Teich Bird Park, a natural conservation area which welcomes numerous wild birds.

Only the rush of the sea breeze in your ears and the cries of the gulls accompany you.

La Teste-de-Buch tourism office Place Jean Hameau 33260 La Teste-de-Buch Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 54 63 14 www.tourisme-latestedebuch.fr

Description of the itinerary at www.rando64.fr

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© SMAVLOT 47 – F.Mansiet

© CRTA/L. Reiz

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ie

G i ro n d e

Paragliding on the Dune of Pilat

© CRTA/L. Reiz

Bateliers du courant d’Huchet 370, Berges du Lac - 40550 Léon Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 48 75 39 www.bateliers-courant-huchet.fr

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ECO-Tourism

With around twenty hotels and campsites bearing the European green flower eco-label (a sign of environmental quality for tourism businesses), Aquitaine is the top region in France by number of certified tourist establishments.

A selection of

eco-stamped accomodation © Lucky studio

sprinklers, rubbish sorted for compost...

Everything is done to make sure you spend your holiday as close as possible to nature.

While your children look for plants and insects with materials provided by the campsite, take part in excursions exploring the Landes region. n Espace Blue Océan – avenue de la Plage 40440 Ondres. Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 45 31 40 www.espaceblueocean.com

Hotel Ville d’hiver Arcachon Renovated with an ecological design, this old water company factory, built in 1884, was transformed into a hotel-restaurantspa in 2009. Warm and refined, the 12 bedrooms are decorated with furniture designed by Bordeaux cabinet-maker Charles-Henri Poirier. In the wine bar, savour an organic wine before enjoying traditional cuisine made from ingredients from the day’s market. Continue these moments of pleasure in the spa, where you will be pampered with Dr. Hauschka natural cosmetics..

© Camping Les Vagues

Just 300 metres from the sea and long sandy beach, you can stay in a haven of peace between the pine forest and the residential quarter of Biscarrosse-Plage. Your room opens onto the garden, and the restaurant boasts local produce and seafood on its menu and caters for vegetarians and other diets. Close to the hotel, footpaths and cycle routes are waiting to be explored.

Camping Espace Blue Océan Ondres

© Camping Blue Ocean

n hôtel - Restaurant Les Vagues – 99 rue des Iris - 40600 Biscarrosse-Plage Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 83 98 10 www.lesvagues.com



© Camping La Rivière

Hotel Les Vagues Biscarrosse-Plage

n Hôtel Ville d’Hiver – 20 avenue Victor Hugo 33120 Arcachon. Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 66 10 36 www.hotelvilledhiver.com

© Camping Eskualduna

At this seaside campsite between Hossegor and Bayonne, environmental protection can be seen all around: the pool is heated by solar power, rain water collected for the

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Camping-hotel restaurante La Rivière Eyzies-de-Tayac

This is the product of a meeting between the Dalbavie family, owners of a former post relay on the banks of the Vézère and architect Charles Widmann, a specialist in bioclimatic buildings: together, they made the gamble of combining a thousand-year history with a forward-looking energy policy. Under the gaze of Cro-Magnon man, become an “eco-tourist” by checking in to either the campsite or one of the six hotel rooms. n Camping-hotel-restaurant La Rivière Famille Dalbavie – 24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 06 97 14 www.lariviereleseyzies.com

Camping Eskualduna Hendaye Camping Eskualduna, Hendaye Between Hendaye and Saint-Jean-de-Luz, the 330 pitches of Camping Eskualduna have an exceptional location on the clifftop road, opposite the Domaine d’Abbadia, a natural conservation area of 64 hectares bordered by cliff plunging into the sea. In this green haven at the feet of the Pyrenees, discover the traditions of the Basque Country and cycle to the beautiful Hendaye beach, only 2 km from the campsite. n Camping Eskualduna – route de la Corniche 64700 Hendaye - Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 20 04 64 www.camping-eskualduna.fr

Discovery At the heart of 400 000 years of human history, the Pôle International de la Préhistoire (PIP) welcome centre can be found in Eyzies-de-Tayac, world prehistory capital.

This surprisingly modern yet reassuringly tranquil building reveals the Vézère valley’s universal heritage, rich in major prehistoric sites, 15 of which are on Unesco’s list of world heritage sites..

Everyone’s welcome

O

in the

pen since July 2010 and designed by architect Raphaël Voinchet, the Pôle International de la Préhistoire’s new welcome centre in Eyzies-de-Tayac is nestled in the countryside between cliffs, vegetation and rivers. Surprising in its modernity and perfectly in tune with its surroundings (in a Natura 2000 classed sensitive site), this 150 metre long two storey building is the ideal starting point to plan your journal through the Cradle of Humankind.

Your welcome to the Pôle International de la Préhistoire On arrival, you are given a personalised welcome in multiple languages to get to

Cradle

of

know your interests and guide you through this remarkable place. Throughout your tour, you will enjoy privileged access to all the resources in the Vézère valley and to the many cultural and educational activities offered by the Pôle International de la Préhistoire.

It’s time to begin your journey into prehistory. Take the inner “lane” through the welcome centre and head towards the permanent “Prehistory – Vézère Valley” exhibit. An innovative display gives you a first glimpse of life in the time of Cro-Magnon and Neanderthal man: frescos and reconstructions of prehistoric humans (by artist Elisabeth Daynès), films on giant screens, 3D touch screen models. Information

Humankind

boards are also provided to help you to plan your trips in the Vézère valley.

Next, head down to the ground floor, home to exciting and original temporary exhibits (following Robert Doisneau’s photos of the Périgord, the new PIP welcome centre has welcomed the “Close your eyes to see prehistory” exhibit, a tactile display in the dark).

Flints, jewellery and a lamp in the National prehistory museum After leaving the Pôle International de la Préhistoire welcome centre – access to which is free –, slip into the guise of an archaeologist on the dig site at the “PréhistoFouilles” workshop (booking required):

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

The Pôle International de la Préhistoire’s welcome centre fits in perfectly in the village of Eyzies-de-Tayac...

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Discovery

Préhisto Parc, Tursac.

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A view of the troglodyte site of La Roque Saint-Christophe..

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© CRTA/B. Bloch

© Jacques Henri Baumel

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Visiting Abri Pataud in Eyzies.

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The PIP’s reading room..

there, you will learn more about how the remains brought to light tell the story of our illustrious ancestors.

natural bumps and hollows of the rock to emphasise the relief and shapes of the animals represented.

To see most of the items discovered in the Vézère valley, return to the National prehistory museum near the welcome centre.

Lecture-visit at the Abri du Poisson

Aside from the numerous flints on display, you can admire the magnificent shell jewellery found in the La Madeleine child burial, or the red sandstone lamp discovered in the Lascaux cave.

Magdalenian artist-painters at Font de Gaume Does the documentary on the wall art of the Font de Gaume cave make you want to be there? On the way out of Eyzies heading towards Sarlat, the last original cave with polychrome paintings open to the public is waiting for you in the Beune valley (access limited to preserve the site, best to book). A designated world heritage site, it is famous for its incredible representations of reindeer, bison, horses and mammoths. This set of friezes shows the attention to realism of the Magdalenians, true artists who used the

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Make the most of your time at Font de Gaume by singing up for a lecture-visit of the Abri du Poisson, the only way to see inside this unusual cave which owes its name to one of the world’s oldest know representations of fish to date. Are you amazed by the metre-long engraved and sculpted salmon? Why not come back to the prehistory welcome centre for a quiet moment of contemplation in the beautiful reading room, where you will have digital access to thousands of publications, reviews, DVDs and other electronic resources on prehistory.

The 10 caves of the Castel Merle valley It’s time to head further up the course of the Vézère in search of Neanderthals and CroMagnons. If you have children, stop off at the Préhisto Parc in Tursac, with its life-size

reconstructions of scenes from the lives of these prehistoric humans.

Then leave the tourists circuits for a while to explore the smaller Castel Merle valley (or Vallon des Roches), one of the densest concentrations of prehistoric deposits, with ten caves (abris) having been counted here. With the booklet available in the welcome centre, discover the five caves open to the public. Every year in June and July, you can also observe a team of archaeologists performing research at Abri Castanet at the mouth of the valley. Complete this tour of the countryside by joining in with some educational activities (spear throwing, flint knapping) and visiting the Sergeac museum’s rich collection of prehistoric tools..

Lascaux, the most striking cave paintings Continue up the Vézère to reach the star attraction in your trip, Lascaux. Although the original cave is off-limits to the public, the life size model faithfully reproduces the wall art. On the curved, limestone covered ceiling, the pigments have kept all their original intensity and the spectacle is striking.

© CRTA/L. Reiz

2

© Préhisto Parc

1

Discovery 4

3

A painting in the Lascaux cave

4

Reconstructions of prehistoric humans in the PIP..

8

7

The troglodyte site of La Roque Saint-Christophe.

8

Spear-throwing workshop in the Castel Merle valley.

While you’re at Montignac, make a detour to the Regourdou site, only 500 metres from Lascaux: a Neanderthal burial of more than 75 000 years old was discovered there, the oldest burial known to date in the western world.

15 000 years of prehistoric habitation at Abri Pataud On your return to Eyzies, make a final stop at Abri Pataud, a unique place to learn how, through stratigraphic excavation we can study the chronology of a prehistoric site over thousands of years. Each stratum is numbered, dated and accompanied by arte-

facts corresponding to the culture described. For example, take a look at level 4, rich in pieces of jewellery, pearls and pendants as well as in pebbles.

A final pause in this packed programme?

Find a seat on the terrace at the centre of the prehistory welcome centre and enjoy the view: On one side, the water garden, on the other the overhanging cliffs. A mellow, verdant place to slowly come back to the twenty-first century. .

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

© Isabelle Daumas-Castanet

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© CRTA/L. Reiz

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

3

Useful information: n

Prehistory welcome centre 30 rue du Moulin 24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 06 06 97 www.pole-prehistoire.com

Opening hours: n 15th May to 15th September: every day from 10 am to 6 pm. n 1st October to 14 May: every day except Saturday, 10 am to 5 pm. n Closed 1st may, 25th December and 1st to 31st January.

Architect Raphaël Voinchet was entrusted with the task of designing the prehistory welcome centre.

With his team and in strict collaboration with the Pôle International de la Préhistoire, he made sure that the building serves the needs of visitors to the site. “We played around with different natural elements for the decor”, he explains. “With the trees, so that their leaves are at the level of the cafeteria terrace; with the meanders of the Beuve that you cross via the footbridge; with the cliffs which act as a backdrop.”

Very low (only 8 metres high for both storeys), very long (150 metres) and very narrow (from 10 to 17 metres wide), the welcome centre never looms over its surroundings. With their discreet, natural tints, the concrete, glass and metal melt into the landscape. The ground floor, open for the public to come and go, is connected to the old medieval road. The garden level, dedicated to accompanied visitors, is subtly shielded from passersby, just like a prehistoric cave.

Finally, Raphaël Voinchet worked with great care for the acoustics of the building, creating a calm and relaxing environment even with a significant flow of tourists.

© CRTA/B. Bloch

A building in harmony with the Eyzies prehistoric site

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MYsteryquiz

How well do you know Aquitaine? e

1

ont

© C uchillería N

On which object would you find this design carved into the wood?

On a prehistoric tool in the Vézère valley.

On a surf board.

On the boxwood handle of a traditional knife.

A

2

B

C

© CRTA/B.Bloch

ai s

ro n

n

Historic buildings and traditions, one-of-a-kind locations… Aquitaine is packed with unique treasures. Perhaps you’ve heard of some of them... but do you know them as well as you think?

Test your knowledge of the region by answering a few questions.

What name would you give to this little wooden cabin on stilts?

Index: This object is originally from Périgord Vert.

A B C

3

It’s a hide for bird watching.

It’s a carrelet, a fisherman’s cabin on the banks of the Gironde estuary.

It’s a cabane tchanquée.

Index: its name is also the name of the type of net used by its owner..

What is the claim to fame of the Contis lighthouse in Landes?

It’s the only lighthouse on the Landes coast.

B It’s the highest lighthouse in Aquitaine.

C It’s the first lighthouse in France to be classed as a historical monument.

A

Index: originally, under napoleon III, its light travelled an astonishing 80 km.

Which impressionist painter was inspired by the water lilies in the Latour-Marliac garden, in Temple-sur-Lot?

4

Auguste Renoir.

B Claude Monet.

C Edouard Manet.

A

Index: he had the same water lilies in the garden of his house in Giverny.

© SARL Latour-Marliac

5

In which Aquitaine village can you visit this magnificent castle?

A © CRTA/J.J. Brochard

© CDT Landes - Lou du Lac

© Wikimedia Commons - Edouard Fattal

6

B C

Index: it was named “France’s most beautiful village” in 2010.

© CRTA/ YD.Greifenstein

In which Aquitaine town was this photo take?

This line of mounds of sand with seashells is: The results of a sand castle competition.

A row of graves in the sand topped with coquilles Saint-Jacques.

C A garden created by an artist seeking spirituality.

A

B

Index: this place, open to all, is located in Anglet, 1 km from the Plage de la Chambre d’Amour.

Saint-Front-sur-Lémance, in Lot-et-Garonne.

Mazères, in Gironde.

Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, in Périgord Noir.

A

7

Soulac-sur-Mer, on the Pointe de Grave in Gironde.

B Biarritz, on the Basque Coast.

C Dax, the spa town in Landes.

Index: here you can visit the Notre-Dame-de-la-Fin-des-Terres basilica, designated a world heritage site by Unesco..

inhabitants of Soulac-sur-Mer dress up and relive the golden age of this elegant spa resort.

Saint-Front-sur-Lémance is home to the Chateau de Bonaguil, and Mazères the Chateau de Roquetaillade. 7A Every year in June, the are renewed using moulds designed for this purpose. 6C It’s the chateau of Chatelnaud-la-Chapelle, which dominates the Dordogne valley.

Bernard cemetery, located beside the Bernardine convent in Anglet in the Basque Country (14 rue Lembeye). Each year the mounds of sand Exposition in 1889, the painter Claude Monet was struck by the charms of the water lilies in the Latour-Marliac nurseries. 5B It’s the Saintlighthouse which is the highest in Aquitaine and the first to be classified as a historical monument, in 1862. 4B At the Paris Universal rivers are used for fishing, which is strictly regulated. 3A The Contis lighthouse is the only lighthouse in Landes. It’s the Cordouan a small town in the northern Dordogne. 2B The carrelets built on jetties on the banks of the Gironde estuary or the Garonne and Dordogne 1C This mysterious symbol is found on the handles of Nontron knives, made by the oldest knife-maker in France and bearing the name of

Answers:

18

© CRTA/MonNuage

leisure They are gourmands, epicureans, passionate about food and connoisseurs of good wines.

Both tourists and inhabitants of Aquitaine have tried – and approved – these themed workshops to learn more about the gastronomic traditions of the region. With them, learn to carve a duck or make your own wine!

© anaëlb.com

My chance to

get stuck in

1

y Make your own wine with

© Tim Clinch

© CRTA/MonNuage

© CRTA/B.Bloch

B-Winemaker

"I discovered B-Winemaker at Chateau Haut Sarpe. With some professionals, we had visited the vineyard where the Grand Cru Classé Saint-Emilion is made, before tasting different varieties in their beautiful tasting room. Then we went on to the creation stage: with a graduated test tube and pipette, we each created our “ideal wine” which was then bottled with a personalised label. We all had an enjoyable day of relaxation and discovery, which was both very professional and great fun."

2

fattened duck in x Cooking Lot-et-Garonne

Laurence, Mont-de-Marsan.

"We spent a weekend learning to cook Périgord fattened duck in the Lys de Vergne guest house near the medieval town of Villeréal. The course took place on the GrangeNeuve farm, a neighbouring establishment which rears and produces the ducks. This is nothing like a typical cookery course: We spent two mornings working in the farm’s laboratory, and knew where all the products came from.

At the end of the weekend, we left with our confits, foies gras and rillettes."

Serge, Aix-en-Provence.

3

c

4

Work through a recipe from start to finish at Initial’s Chef

a cordon bleu v Become with Michel Guerard

“I love cooking. With Nicolas Lamstaes in Périgueux, it’s fabulous! Everything is ready when you arrive. You have your own personal work plan, on which you work through your recipe from start to finish. During the course, the chef shows you plenty of tricks. He’s composed and very friendly. At the end, you taste each other’s dishes and you can take the leftovers home. Afterwards, it’s very easy to recreate the recipes at home: I’m still really proud of my macaroons!”

Mady, Périgueux.

© CPIE

b Gathering and cooking Bearn’s wild plants 5

“Being passionate about Béarn, we registered for a cookery workshop on wild berries and nettles. The meeting was held at Clos Lapeyre in the middle of the Jurançon vineyards.

Over the course of an enjoyable walk, we collected various varieties of nettles and local berries. Our guide, a naturalist, explained the benefits of each plant. Then, under the guidance of a chef, we made several dishes with the items we had collected. The nettle soup was really delicious!”

“I’m a regular in Michel Guérard’s cookery classes. In these stunning surroundings, the four afternoons of lessons are given by Stéphane Mack, who is passionate and a great teacher. While the chef makes the recipes in front of us, we can take notes and photograph his handiwork. I also learned to cook different birds, including some low-fat recipes. Since then I’ve made some of the dishes regularly, notably the infallible chocolate soufflé!”

François, Saint-Pierre-du-Mont.

Christine y Sylvain, Belcastel en el ’Aveyron.

useful Information: n B -Winemaker – Rodolphe Desbois (+33 (0)6 62 73 77 87) - Pierre Dufourq (+33 (0)6 65 74 14 66). www.b-winemaker.com n W eek-end en Haut-Agenais – Marie-Ange Rumeau (Lys de Vergne) - Marie-Christine Deblache (la Ferme de Grange-Neuve) – 47210 Villeréal. Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 36 61 54. www.lysdevergne.com n I nitial’s Chef – 36-38 rue Gambetta – 24000 Périgueux. Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 13 22 94. www.initialschef.com n L es Prés d’Eugénie – Michel Guérard – 40320 Eugénie-les-Bains. Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 05 06 07. www.michelguerard.com n C PIE (centre permanent d’initiatives pour l’environnement) – 64360 Lacommande. Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 21 00 29. www.cpiebearn.fr

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budgetchic

Treehouse, dovecote or old girls’ school: Discover our selection of guesthouses combining comfort and unique style.

Originales From

95 €

a night

Screened from view by vines, with the Garonne at the end of the road. You have arrived at Palmiers du Port, a refined guesthouse a short way from the Barsac-Sauternes chateaux. Make the most of the traditional way of life in this place to discover the fishing cabins with their carrelet nets and watch the dance of the sea-lamprey fishermen. At high tide, watch the tidal bore phenomenon from the flower garden.

in a treehouse in Valeuil (Dordogne)

© Cabanes de Vaure

in the Barsac port authority buildings

80 €ht a nig

Between Périgord and Gascony, enjoy chateau life near the Lot valley. Stay in one of the two charming guest rooms in the renovated dovecote of (4 ‘ears of corn’ from Gîtes de France) and surrender yourself to the relaxed pace of life in this little corner of “French Tuscany”. The beautiful pool and Jacuzzi, pony trekking, wine tasting in the bar and meals at the table d’hôtes break up your stay. n Château de Missandre - 47380 Saint-Pierrede-Caubel Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 41 87 66 www.missandre.fr

20

95 €

Have an irresistible a night desire to get 100 % back to nature? Near Brantôme in Périgord Vert, stay in a cabin perched four metres up at the edge of a wood. In the morning, hoist up your breakfast basket using a pulley, then watch bird of prey and wild animals from your balcony. At the end of the day, enjoy the sunset over the Dronne valley. It’s hard to come back down to earth from this snug nest... n Les Cabanes de Vaure - Timothée Deneuville 24310 Valeuil - Tel. : +33 (0)6 40 38 08 60 http://cabane-perigord-dordogne.cabanesdevaure.fr

in an old landes farmhouse

From

55 €ht

a nig

© Ecolodge Segosa

© Château de Missandre

From

Pine forest ambiance in the “bois nature”, seaside atmosphere for “les embruns”: as the names (meaning “natural wood” and “spindrift” respectively) suggest, Ecolodge Ségosa is located at the heart of the Landes pine forest and only 10 minutes from the beach in Mimizan. Renovated according to eco-renovation principles (local natural materials, natural heat regulation), this old farmhouse mixes charm and modernity. n Ecolodge Ségosa - route de Mezos 40200 Saint-Paul-en-Born Tel. : +33 (0)6 89 49 58 84 www.ecolodge-segosa.com

From

n Les Palmiers du Port - 20, le Port 33720 Barsac Tel. : +33 (0)9 65 19 85 43 www.lespalmiersduport.com

In the dovecote of the Chateau de Missandre

for less than 100 € a night

in an old girls’ school

© Le Boila-Laslie

© les Palmiers du Port

guesthouses

From

54 €

Go back to school for your hoa night lidays? It’s possible at Le Boila Laslie, a former school housing two comfortable guest rooms. You sleep in the classroom where young girls from the village studied from 1600 to 1960. The “mountain chalet” feel of the Adelaide room is irresistible. n Le Boila Laslie - rue de l’église Valérie Laurent Iglicki 64260 Bielle - (8 km north of Laruns) Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 82 65 83 ou +33 (0)6 27 91 18 56 www.leboilalaslie.com

GETTINGAWAY

In the Pyrenees montains thrills

“Leaving the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz behind us, my friends and I set off towards the first of the Pyrenean foothills. We quickly reach the first stop on our itinerary, the Col de SaintIgnace: It’s from here that the little rack-andpinion railway begins its climb up Larrun, the sacred mountain of the Basque Country.

During the 35 minute ascent, we come across pottocks,

A unique view ov and the Pyreneeser the Basque Country from Larrun

© P. Laplace/CDT

64

IN search of basque country pie noir pigs The next day, we returned to the Nive valley in Cambo-les-Bains: the gardens of the Villa Arnaga, designed

rie

Terraces of Irouleguy vines.

by the writer Edmund Rostand, are well worth a detour! Arriving in the typical village of Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgory, the gateway to the beautiful Aldudes valley, the tourist information centre advises us to seek out Pierre Oteiza, a breeder of Basque Country pie noir pigs. In his company, we set out along a beautiful 2 km footpath to investigate this breed which was in danger of dying out in 1981. On the lower slopes of the mountain, we come across the herds of pigs lounging in the sun. They are o dd-lo ok ing , with their black and white hide, heads and backsides both black.

Among the oaks, chestnuts and beech trees, they are raised in gs groups of 40 and Pie noir pi Pierre Oteiza. by can’t damage the reared . Bloch © CRTA/B

an unforgettable view at the summit of la Rhune

adorable wild ponies that graze freely in the mountains. From the summit at 905 metres, the view is unique: in addition to the seven Basque provinces, you can even make out the never-ending beaches of Landes in the distance.

Coming back down, we check into the Auberge Basque, a modern hotel in the heart of Labourd, ideal for exploring two of the most beautiful villages in France: Aïnhoa, a beautiful medieval village with its rows of red and white houses, and Sare, with its traditional Basque house, Ortillopitz, and Basque cake museum! A pâtissier made a gateau in front of us, all the time giving us plenty of advice and tips. And what a scrumptious gateau it was!

gue © CRTA/A. Bé

From Saint-Jean-de-Luz to the mythical Col d’Aubisque, the 250 km route des cols in Pyrénées-Atlantiques open the Pyrenees up to you.

From peaks to valleys, in the air or underground, on foot or by bike, follow in the footsteps of a traveller and his friends. Set out with him to meet livestock farmers and local guides, discover charming hotels and guesthouses, immerse yourself in the Basque and Béarnaise cultures.

© CDT64

Around the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, the possibilities for hiking are infinite.

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© CRTA/A. Béguerie

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

GETTINGAWAY

Excursion in the mysterious Iraty Forest

© Hotel Etchémaïté

The next day, we say goodbye to Aldudes and hello to the Irouléguy vineyard. We can’t resist the temptation of tasting a few wines from

le valley A room with a view over the Sou e. in the Hotel Etchemait

22

the smallest AOC winemaker in France at the cellar on the way out of Saint-Etienne-deBaïgory. Then we head back down to SaintJe an-Pie d-de-Por t on the Way of Saint James.

On foot, we pass La Verna, one of the under the Porte de underground ca verns Navarre, listed as a Unesco world heritage site, and climb to the top of the citadel redesigned by Vauban.

After the climb to this high place of pilgrimage, we have another six cols to tackle to reach the green Soule valley! Haltza, Haritzcurutche, Burdincurucheta, Heguichouria, Bagargui, Organbidexka: The names aren’t easy to pronounce if you don’t speak Euskara, the Basque language. We arrive in TardetsSorholus on market day and seeing the stalls of sausages and ewes’ milk cheese makes our mouths water. At the tourist information centre, we book a one day excursion with a local guide, who takes us to explore the Iraty forest, the biggest beech grove in Europe. He shows us tumuli and cromlechs (prehistoric funerary stone circles), evidence of the presence of the first farmers in the Soule valley; he tells us of the spirits who inhabit the mountains, springs, woods and caves; he describes the Pastoral, a traditional play entirely in Basque which attracts thousands of spectators every summer.

For our third night, we have stopped off at the Hôtel Etchémaïté in Larrau. In the comfort of its cosy rooms with a view of the mountains we feel rested after our long journey, so much so that we decide to attempt the ascent of © J.F. Godar t

pasture thanks to the ring fitted in their snout.

We stop by the panoramic map for our picnic and it’s wonderful to listen to the silence, disturbed only by the flights of griffon vultures below us. The walk ends with Kintoa hamtasting. The name is emblematic, chosen by the breeders for this product in hopes of gaining an AOC (appellation d’origine controlee).

Having worked up an appetite during this visit, we have only one thought: to reach the Maison Aguerria, an authentic Navarrese guesthouse where dinner is waiting for us.

And what a surprise when we arrived! The bedrooms are furnished with a mixture of modern furniture and traditional elements and we loved the designer lounge with its curved white armchairs.

the mythical Pic d’Orhi the next day!

After this lovely trip (it is a 5 to 6 hour walk) and a second night in Larrau, we make a last stop in Soule, this time underground: wow!!!

It’s the only word biggest on our lips when we in the world. enter the La Verna cavern, one of the ten biggest underground caves in the world: 245 metres in diameter, 194 metres high, 5 hectares in area.

Fishing, paragliding and eating out in the Aspe valley But it’s time to get back on the road, heading for Oloron-Sainte-Marie. Designated a “Town of Art and History”, the oldest town in Béarn is an important stopping point on the Ways of Saint James. Kitted out with audio guides, we explored the three historic quarters divided by the Ossau and Aspe rivers, visit the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, a listed world heritage site, and buy some beautiful Basque fabric from the Tissages Lartigue factory shop.

The town is also the gateway to the Aspe valley. For the next two nights, we have set down our suitcases in Eysus, in an old windmill located on the Arles pilgrim route.

Restored with ecological materials, today the Moulin d’Eysus is a beautiful guesthouse with a “Pêche 64” label denoting sustainable angling. There, we each indulge ourselves: A round of fly fishing for two of us, and a beginners’ paragliding flight from the Accous site for the other two.

We meet up again for a meal in the Auberge de Sarrance, a

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

© CRTA/L. Reiz

But we can’t stay in the Aspe valley any longer.

The flocks of sheep are waiting for us, ready for their summer migration up the Ossau valley. We return to Laruns – home to the headquarters of the Pyrenees national park – via the Col de Marie Blanque. There, we spend two days living the lives of shepherds: we see them mark the sheep and accompany them, to the sound of the bells on the animals’ collars, to their cabin in the midst of the summer pastures at the feet of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, we see them milk the

© OT Gourette

migration in the ossau valley

predominantly basco-béarnaise ewes and uses their milk in onsite production. Aas is also famous for its whistlers, shepherds who Ossau-Iraty is communicate with one another in w ith AOC statua Pyrenean cheese a whistled language. s What’s more, we are in a prime spot to set out on the last stage of our trek: cycling the Col d’Aubisque, ranked among the more legendary ascents of the Tour de France.

From Aas, the route snakes up to the spa town of Eaux-Bonnes, then on to Gourette, the first ski resort in Pyrénées-Atlantiques.

We’re already thinking that we should come back to these mountains in winter to see them in their white mantle of snow and to take advantage of all the activities they offer in that season: skiing, snow-shoeing, climbing activities frozen waterfalls, cross country skiing...” here are plenty of

© CDT64

fantastic house dating from 1789 reputed for its country dishes: on the menu, boudin de Sarrance, gratin béarnais and local cheese and wine. There is nothing more left to do but to cool off by setting out with a mountain guide for an afternoon of canyoning in the Aspe gorge.

© CRTA/A. Béguerie

GETTINGAWAY

waiting T er too. nt wi in nees for you in the Pyre

useful Information – tourist activities a Rhune - Larrun railway: www.rhune.com L Ainhoa: www.ainhoa.fr Sare: www.sare.fr Villa Arnaga: www.arnaga.com Trips to see Basque pigs: www.pierreoteiza.com/parcours-decouverte/ Irouléguy wine cellar: www.cave-irouleguy.com Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port tourist information centre: www.saintjeanpieddeport-paysbasque-tourisme.com n Soule valley tourism: www.valleedesoule.com n La Verna cavern: www.laverna.fr n Oloron-Sainte-Marie tourist information centre: www.tourisme-oloron.com n Aspe valley tourism: www.tourisme-aspe.com n Ossau valley tourism: www.valleedossau-tourisme.com

© OT Laruns

n n n n n n n

ble their flocks Shepherds assemmigration in Laruns ready for the ewes and are gifted with some of the Ossau-Iraty AOC cheese made from the milk.

To immerse ourselves even more in this pastoral culture, we stay in the village of Aas on the Montagne Verte farm, which rears

useful Information – accommodation n n n n n

’Auberge Basque, Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle: www.aubergebasque.com L Maison Aguerria, Les Aldudes: www.maisonaguerria.com Hôtel Etchemaïté, Larrau: www.hotel-etchemaite.fr Moulin d’Eysus: www.moulin-eysus.com Montagne verte farm, Aas: www.fermemontagneverte.com

23

citybreak Spring, summer, autumn, winter: all year round, Bayonne, Bordeaux, Pau and Périgueux pull out all the stops to offer an enticing programme: shopping in the luxury boutiques of Aquitaine’s artisans, modern art exhibits, sumptuous meals, interactive walks exploring the varied histories of the cities, dance shows, operas...

Flag-bearers for a rich gastronomic heritage, these cities dress up in all seasons to celebrate chocolate, wine, foie gras, truffles and hams.

So many occasions to choose from to discover or rediscover them.

City

exploration

in all seasons

A row of beautiful Basque half-timbered façades on the quays of the Nive in Bayonne.

personality situated between green hills and the Atlantic Ocean. Stroll along the quays of the Nive, admire the Maison Moulis, the most remarkable of the half-timbered buildings, then wander through the pedestrianised old town: stop to browse the shop windows filled with beautiful Basque fabrics, visit the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie or take part in the family treasure hunt offered by the tourist information centre.

Also in the spring, enjoy the Journées du Chocolat festival, going back in time to explore Bayonne’s history, intimately linked to its port and to trade. See the exhibit “du cacaoyer au chocolat” (from cacao tree to chocolate)

24

nC ontact: Tourist information office Place des Basques – BP 819 64108 Bayonne Tel. : +33 (0)8 20 42 64 64 www.bayonne-tourisme.com

summer: Festive atmosphere on the quays in Bordeaux

12 cours du XXX Juillet 33000 Burdeos Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00 www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

autumn: Grape harvests and relaxed living in Pau

Wine festival in even years, river festival in odd years: if there’s one city in Aquitaine which really celebrates the coming of summer, it’s its capital, Bordeaux. It’s the quays of the Garonne with their beautiful eighteenth century façades, a Unesco world heritage site, that play host to the two festivals.

Between two wine tasting events during “Bordeaux fête le vin” or two dance shows in “Bordeaux fête le fleuve”, walk in the well appointed gardens along the Port de la Lune, play in the reflections of the miroir d’eau in front of the Place de la Bourse, shop in the renovated old docks, enjoy a glass of wine with some oysters at the Sunday morning market.

Leave your car behind to explore the city: the tramway takes you from the Musée d’Aquitaine to the trendy new Bassins à

The autumn, when the leaves of the Jurançon vines take on their vivid colours, is a particularly good time to be in Pau, the capital of Béarn. From mid-October until mid-December for the latest grape harvests, Château de Pau.

© CRTA/MonNuage

At the confluence of the Nive and Adour rivers, a love of food isn’t a sin; it’s a true art of life. Discover Bayonne during the ham festival, an unmissable event celebrated during Holy Week since 1426... a city with

flot quarter, from the Jardin Public to the charming alleys of “Old Bordeaux”, from the CAPC (museum of modern art) to the luxury boutiques of the Grands Hommes quarter...

You can also hire a “VCub” bike to cross the Garonne to the La Bastide quarter and visit the botanic garden. From there, you are ideally placed to watch one of the musical fireworks displays which on any special occasion light up both sides of the Port de la Lune in a thousand and one colours. n C ontact: Tourist information office

at L’Atelier du Chocolat You can also enjoy the sea air by hiring a bike and cycling along the banks of the Adour to the Plage de la Chambre d’Amour. It’s also a beautiful ride for the summer, during the famous Fêtes de Bayonne.

© CRTA/B. Bloch

spring: At the heart of the Basque soul in Bayonne

© CRTA/A. Béguerie

citybreak

Each summer, the troupes of the Mimos festival take possession of Périgueux’ medieval streets.

while the wine growers are hard at work in the vineyard, admire the Pyrenees while walking under the palm trees on the boulevard of the same name, where Alfred de Vigny liked to dream. The climate, ideal for growing the grapes which each year give birth to Jurançon, “wine of kings, king of wines”, is also ideal for the lemon trees, orange trees, magnolias and camellias growing in the numerous parks and gardens which brighten this city, birthplace of the French king Henri IV. Do whatever takes your fancy: stroll through the flea markets, play a few holes on the oldest golf course in continental Europe, attend one of the concerts given by the Pau-Pays de Béarn orchestra, admire Grecos, Rubens and Degas in the Musée des Beaux-arts, stop off at the Palais Beaumont casino, get revved up during a cesta punta match... Thirsty? To taste a Jurançon wine, visit a cellar on the route des vins or book a table at one of Pau’s excellent restaurants serving suckling lamb, fine charcuterie, wild trout and salmon caught in the rivers and even ewes’ milk cheeses. n C ontact: Tourist information office place Royale – 64000 Pau Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 27 27 08 www.pau-pyrenees.com

winter: Food tour of the medieval city of Périgueux Famous since the middle ages for its marchés au gras (fattened geese and ducks, foies gras, truffles), the capital of Périgord comes to life on Wednesday and Saturday mornings from mid-November to mid-March. The market is held in the old town, at the heart of the medieval Puy Saint-Front quarter. Armed with your basket, follow the medieval streets to the Place Saint-Louis, where producers of fattened ducks and truffles gather. Look up to admire the beautiful Renaissance façades, including the famous “Maison du pâtissier”.

Round off your morning’s shopping with a Périgueux pâté, a loaf of foie gras wrapped in black truffle under a fine puff pastry.

Afterwards, admire the view over the river Isle and visit the Cathédrale Saint-Front, designated a world heritage site by Unesco for its position on the Ways of Saint James.

Crowned by domes in the byzantine style, it is the pride of the people of Périgord, as is the Vésunna museum, designed by architect Jean

© CRTA/OT Périgueux

© CRTA/L. Reiz

The centrepiece of the new development of the Bordeaux quays, the miroir d’eau faces the Place de la Bourse.

The Tour Mataguerre in Périgueux.

Nouvel around the remains of a Gallo-roman villa. nC ontact: Tourist information office 26 place Francheville 24000 Périgueux Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 53 10 63 www.tourisme-perigueux.fr

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shopping

Proud of their artisanal expertise, these establishments are as frequented by regular clients as by the tourists attracted by word of mouth. While walking around Aquitaine’s cities, pop into these confiseries, biscuiteries or coutelleries and discover centuries-old regional traditions.

Historical and unique brands The beautiful boutiques of the past...

1. Coutellerie Favié

Périgueux

© CRTA/B. Bloch

Lined with coquilles Saint-Jacques, a reminder that Périgueux is a stopping point on the Way of Saint James, the rue Limogeanne brings you to the coutellerie Favié, an artisanal cutler’s shop which since 1886 has occupied the ground floor of the Maison Estignard, built in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Before going inside, admire the beautiful Renaissance façade, a listed historic monument, with the salamander carved over its door and its towering gable. Inside, the descendants of Manuel Favié continue the Périgord tradition of coutellerie, selling beautiful pocket and table knives, whether French (Nontron, Laguiole, Thiers), Swiss, German or even Japanese.

Coutellerie Favié – 5 rue Limogeanne – 24000 Périgueux. Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 53 48 83

2. Au Sanglier de Russie

Bordeaux

© L. Zeller Z.Studio

Founded in 1814 in the Saint-Pierre quarter, the brand “Au Sanglier de Russie” developed under the second Empire, importing wild boar bristles from Russia. Since 1875, it has been well-established on Cours Alsace-Lorraine, half way between the Garonne and the Pey Berland tower. In the window, shaving brushes and hairbrushes sit cheek by jowl with horn combs and artists’ paintbrushes. Inside, the solid oak counters have been there since the beginning, and on the walls, luxury brushes show off the house’s expertise.

Au Sanglier de Russie – 67 cours Alsace-Lorraine – 33000 Burdeos. Tel. : +33 (0)5 56 81 33 36 www.ausanglierderussie.com

3. La Maison Cazenave

© Au sanglier de Russie

Bayonne

Founded in 1854, this venerable establishment is waiting for you under the arcades of the rue du Port-Neuf, a picturesque street in old Bayonne, a little way from the confluence between the Nive and the Adour. On the site of the former chocolate factory – transformed into an elegant tea room at the beginning of the twentieth century – melt over a cup of hand whipped hot chocolate, the house speciality. Around you, mirrors, wood panelling and stained glass transport you back in time.

Maison Cazenave – 19 rue du Port-Neuf – 64100 Bayonne. Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 59 03 16 - www.chocolats-bayonne-cazenave.fr

4. La Maison Cazelle

Dax

© Confiserie Boisson

A short way from the famous La Néhe fountain, the green wooden façade of this old-time biscuiterie can’t help but catch your eye. The only vendor in France of the Dax Madeleine biscuit, this boutique has belonged to the same family for four generations. Only Philippe Cazelle knows the recipe, unchanged since 1906 and made up exclusively of quality natural ingredients.

There’s another surprise inside: here they only sell Madeleines, still packaged in the exquisite original blue or pink boxes.

Maison Cazelle – 6 rue Fontaine Chaude – 40100 Dax Tel. : +33 (0) 5 58 74 26 25 - www.madeleines-dax.com

5. La confiserie Boisson

© CRTA/ M.Sesma

Agen

In an old street in Agen, the Confiserie Boisson is a beautiful old-fashioned boutique with its wood panelling, window displays bursting with treats and its jars of sweets filling rows of shelves. Coated in chocolate, with delicious fillings, flavoured with Armagnac or decorated with almond paste: the pruneaux d’Agen are the uncontested stars of this boutique, which has been in the hands of the Boisson family since 1846. Your sweet tooth satisfied, head towards the Musée des Beaux-arts, with its beautiful collection of paintings, including five Goya canvases.

26 Confiserie Boisson – 20 rue Grande Horloge – 47000 Agen. Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 66 20 61 www.confiserieboisson.com

entrecÔte à la bordelaise

Poule au pot

Regional flavours

Regional © Fotolia.com

Foie gras frais en terrine

© Fotolia.com

gâteau Basque

Regional flavours

flavours

Regional © AAPrA – Coutaud

flavours

© Fotolia.com

poule au pot

entrecÔte à la bordelaise An original recipe by Nicolas Masse, chef at the restaurant La Grand’Vigne at the Sources de Caudalie (1 Michelin star)

Ingredients serves 6 :

1. Wash all the vegetables and peel them.

Cut the leeks in half, leaving the carrots and turnips whole.

• 1 chiken

2. Rinse the chicken under the cold tap.

Place it in a large pot and cover it with water.

Add the cooking salt, bay leaves and pepper.

• 6 carrots • 6 turnips • 4 leeks • 2 sticks of celery, diced • 1 onion, studded with 2cloves • cooking salt, pepper • thyme, bay leaves

3. Heat through and place the carrots and turnips in the stock.

4. Leave to cook for at least half an hour.

Next add the leeks, celery, studded onion and thyme.

5. Cover and leave to simmer for an hour and a half to two hours. The chicken is cooked when the flesh comes away easily.

6. Arrange the vegetables in a dish and place the chicken on top of them.

7. Serve with rice cooked in the stock and a white sauce.

Ingredients serves 4 :

Sauce Bordelaise

• 2 beef steaks of 600g each • 3 grey shallots • 2x25 g butter

1. Peel and thinly slice the shallots.

2.Sweat the shallots until slightly coloured in a cast iron casserole dish, preferably with butter.

Coat them with flour and mix with a spatula.

• 120 g of beef marrow

3.Pour in the red wine, then the beef stock, add the fresh thyme and bay leaf.

• 200 ml red Bordeaux wine

4. Reduce by half. Remove from the heat and add 25 g of butter.

• 150 ml beef stock

5.Just before serving, add the diced marrow and chopped parsley.

• 1 desert spoon of flour • 1 sprig of thyme • a bay leaf • 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley • Fleur de sel

Cooking the meat 1.Heat the oil a frying pan. Fry the steaks for two minutes on a high heat. Flip them over, turn down the heat and add the butter. Cook for another 2 minutes for rare meat.

2.Remove the meat to a rack. Cover with tin foil, leave to rest for 5 minutes and sprinkle with fleur de sel and pepper before serving.

• Ground pepper

Chef’s tips I recommend cooking the steak on good quality embers with vine shoots.

This give them an exceptional flavour.

Sabores

Find products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr

regionales

gâteau basque Ingredients serves 8 :

Sabores

regionales

Find products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr

Foie gras frais en terrine

To make the dough:

Ingredients:

• 1 fresh foie gras of 500g maximum

• 300 g sifted flour

1. Mix the sugar, sifted flour, salt and baking powder in a mixing bowl.

2. Make a hollow in the centre and add the whole egg and two yolks. Soften the butter and add it to the mixture.

Flavour with the bitter almond extract.

3. Knead the dough by hand until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Once all the dough is of the same consistency, leave it to rest for a minimum of one hour.

• 200 g icing sugar

To make the cream:

• 150 g butter

4. Whisk the two egg yolks with the sugar until the mixture turns white. Incorporate the flour.

5. Heat the milk with the vanilla pod, then pour the boiling milk over the mixture, whisking all the time.

6. Return to the pan and allow to thicken for 5 minutes over a low heat, stirring all the time. Flavour with the rum and leave to cool.

7. Preheat the oven to 200°C (gas mark 5-6).

8. Lightly grease and flour a sandwich tin.

9. Separate the dough into two portions, one bigger than the other (around 2/3 – 1/3).

10. Press down the larger portion of dough in the bottom of the tin (use your fist), folding the excess dough over the sides.

11. Top with the cream.

12. Press the other portion of dough into a smaller disc, place it on top of the cream and press the upper and lower edges of the dough together to seal. Score the surface with the tip of a knife, then brush with the with the remaining (beaten) egg yolk.

13. Bake for around 25 minutes, then for a further 20 minutes at 180°C (gas mark 4-5).

14. Leave to cool slightly before turning out onto a rack, then serve still warm or cold.

• 1 fine strip of streaky bacon to line the terrine

For the dough:

• 1 whole egg • 3 egg yolks, one to brush on the gâteau

• a few drops of bitter almond extract • 1 tsp baking powder • a pinch of fine salt For the cream:

• 2 egg yolks • 50 g sugar • 25 g sifted flour • 250 ml milk • a vanilla pod (or a few drops of vanilla extract) • 1 desert spoon of rum

Sabores

Find products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr

regionales

• 1 teaspoon of fine salt • white pepper • Pineau or Armagnac to taste

1. Remove the foie gras from the refrigerator 1 to 2 hours in advance so that it is at room temperature.

2. Separate the two lobes and devein the foie gras: this is the fiddliest part of the recipe.

Follow the veins, pulling them towards yourself without breaking them.

3. Spread the mixture of salt, pepper and alcohol evenly over the entire surface of the lobes.

4. Marinate the foie gras in a dish in the refrigerator overnight.

5. Line the terrine with the bacon (this will make it easier to turn out), and place the foie gras inside (press it down well).

6. Seal the terrine (completely seal around the lid with a mixture of flour and water), and cook in a bain-marie in an oven at 150°C (gas mark 2).

7. Cook for 30 to 45 minutes. To check that the foie gras is cooked, stick a needle in it (it should be greasy all over and just lukewarm).

8. Leave to cool to room temperature then refrigerate for 24 hours.

9. Turn out and serve on hot slices of toasted baguette.

Find products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr

© Château Garreau

GETTINGAWAY

Museum of stills at Château Garreau.

© CRTA/B. Bloch

Wine

country

in Bas-Armagnac

Vintage Armagnac tasting on the Ognoas estate

Be amazed, taste, explore, feast... In the Landes countryside and on the slopes of Albret, all are good ways to live and discover Armagnac, the oldest eau-de-vie in France.

Learn... that the production method for Armagnac follows very precise rules, validated by an AOC obtained in 1936. The Ecomusée de l’Armagnac in Labastide-d’Armagnac is the ideal place to explore the history of the production of the oldest eau-de-vie in France. In particular, it unites hundreds of bottles in original shapes and presents 11 stills of various types.

Be amazed…

by the oldest still in Gascony, still hard at work, dating from 1804.

It is on display on the Ognoas estate, a ‘site remarquable du goût’ (a site recognised for the excellence of its local produce and heritage), which stretches over 565 hectares around Arthez-d’Armagnac. A visit to this château, which has produced its reputed Armagnac since the eighteenth century, proves to be fascinating: discovering the distillation process, admiring the wonderfully restored barn and windmill... and tasting the finished product!

You can also stay onsite in two former smallholdings renovated in the regional style (gîtes awarded 4 ‘ears of corn’ by Gîtes de France).

Visit… the cork museum in Mézin, which

traces the history of the cork-making trade since the eighteenth century.

Through audio and visual displays, follow the saga of a family of cork-makers, discover the forest of cork-oaks and the workshops of Albret.

Unearth… a bottle of Armagnac from a particular vintage (the year you were born or got married for example). On the Lapeyrade estate in Albret, your hosts fill bottles of Armagnac directly from the barrel, sealing them for you to take home, if you wish, with a personalised label.

Stay… with the Comtesse de Montes-

quiou-Fezensac in Bas-Armagnac. A short way from the eighteenth century monastery, ensconce yourself in the former smallholding on the Espérance estate, a gîte “Bacchus” (a traditional gîte located on a quality vineyard and offering total immersion in the world of wine-making), with 4 Gîtes de France ‘ears of corn’. On the edges of the vineyard, you are perfectly placed to enjoy nature, visit the cellar and discover Floc de Gascogne, a blend of two thirds grape juice and one third Armagnac. It’s also the perfect setting to take part in the cookery courses organised by the Comtesse.

Explore... the new cycle route linking Mont-de-Marsan and Gabarret. Stop of at Notre-Dame-des-Cyclistes, an eleventh century Romanesque chapel dedicated to the pastime since 1959, cross Armagnac’s vineyards and, wind through Landes’ pretty walled villages, smell the famous “part des anges”, the alcoholic vapours which rise from the distilleries throughout the eau-de-vie’s aging process.

Feast… around the Flamme d’Armagnac, which travels the length and breadth of Gascony each year at the end of the grape harvest to mark the start of distillation (from late October to December).

In Labastide d’Armagnac, the Place Royale, which inspired the design of the Place des Vosges in Paris, comes to life with Armagnac markets, winemakers’ dinners, initiations into the jeu de quille and the course landaise, sacraments and the “Escoubade”, the traditional meal marking the end of the harvest. useful Information n Ecomusée de l’Armagnac

Château Garreau – 40240 Labastide d’Armagnac Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 44 84 35 www.chateau-garreau.fr

n

omaine d’Ognoas – 40190 Arthez D d’Armagnac Tel. : +33 5 58 45 22 11 www.domaine-ognoas.com

n

ork museum C rue du Puits-Saint-Côme – 47170 Mézin Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 65 68 16 www.ville-mezin.fr

n

omaine de Lapeyrade – «Le Petit» D 47600 Fieux Tel. : 05 53 97 56 45 www.armagnac-lapeyrade.fr

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omaine d’Espérance - 40240 Mauvezin D d’Armagnac Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 44 85 93 www.esperance.fr

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lamme de l’Armagnac F Tourist information centre Place Royale 40240 Labastide-d’Armagnac Tel. : +33 5 58 44 67 56 www.armagnac.fr

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well-being

Hot springs in Landes, thalassotherapy by the Atlantic Ocean, spas among the vines... In Aquitaine, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to pampering yourself in a stunning environment.

Discover our selection of quality establishments for well-being and fitness breaks.

Relaxing breaks: choose your ambiance!

Vinothérapie

© CRTA/Les sources de Caudalie

among the vines of a grand cru classé It’s not by accident that the Vinothérapie® spa Les Sources de Caudalie took home the prize for best spa in the world in 2010, chosen by the readers of the British magazine Condé Nast Traveller. Like them, surrender yourself to the ambiance of this universe designed by architect Yves Collet, blending tradition, with the marriage of wood and stone, and the modernity of a hushed and contemporary atmosphere. Melt under the effects of the only grape based treatments in the world, provided by expert and attentive “vinotherapists”: comfortably ensconced in a cubicle with a view over the vineyard, choose the background music and fully enjoy the treatments lavished on you, such as our full facial, performed entirely by hand and tailored to each skin type.

After visiting the wine cellar at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a short way from the spa, round off this return to basics by discovering the kitchen of Nicolas Masse, a young chef, passionate about the region’s produce and whose inspiration was rewarded in 2010 with a Michelin star..

hot spring treatments

© CRTA/B. Bloch

After the renovation of its façade, the Splendid Hôtel, one of Dax’s Art Deco jewels, offers you the benefits of peloid, a mineral clay resulting from the maturation of silt from the Adour river in hot springs. Book a room – also in the Art Deco style – and gain direct access to the spa and fitness suite. This two or three day get away allows you to simply relax and enjoy yourself, do away with stress or combat the aches and pains of everyday life with the benefits of its spa treatments. You can also take advantage of your stay at the heart of Landes to explore the town of Dax, hike in the vast pine forest or make the trip of just 30 km to the beaches of the Atlantic coast. End your day with a cocktail in the Splendid Hôtel’s great hall, and relive the golden era of this luxury hotel which opened its doors in 1929..

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© Bulle Communication

in Art Deco surroundings in Dax

private relaxation area in Gascony

In the country of King Henri IV, the pace of life is slow. Discover this recipe for happiness in the heart of the Pays d’Albret: open the door of the Moulin de Larroque in Barbaste, between rolling hills, vineyards and pine forest; take a room in this seventeenth century water mill’s guesthouse; then take possession of the beautiful relaxation area which is reserved just for you for an hour and forty five minutes. During this time alone, sample the pleasure of a whirlpool bath in the spa, enjoy the use of the sauna and Turkish bath and relax in the beautiful indoor heated pool. All that remains for you to do is explore the green Pays d’Albret, visit the Henri IV château-museum in Nérac, stroll through the medieval village of Vianne or take the Train touristique de l’Albret, before a well deserved rest in one of the Moulin de Larroque’s five charming rooms, each decorated differently in a mellow, countryside style..

well-being

© Sylvamar/soin Margaux

Balneotherapie in Landes With the clear green waters of its indoor pool, its bamboo, scattered pebbles and warm cubicles with lights that change colour over the course of a treatment, the change of scenery is sure to do you good in the new well-being suite of Camping Sylvamar in Labenne-Océan (this area is open to all over 18 years of age). In the huge heated fresh water pool, relax on the hydromassage beds and seats, get moving with an aqua-gym or aqua-bike class or play chess like the players in the famous spas of Budapest. To recover from a non-stop lifestyle, relax in the sauna with a view of the outdoors. Your journey continues in the spa, which offers a wide array of treatments. Here as a couple? Enjoy a duo cubicle to cocoon the two of you in a private space, before setting out to discover the birds of the Marais d’Orx nature reserve.

Thalassotherapy

dip your feet in the water on the Basque Coast Situated on the beach facing the sea, the Institut Hélianthal Thalasso & Spa is a unique location for thalassotherapy in the middle of the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Among the numerous treatments offered, why not try the new “fitness & Pilates” break to gently tone your body? In addition to sessions of Pilates, a form of exercise which reinforces muscles, favoured by celebs, you will take part in hydrotherapy, lifting treatments, plantar reflexology and organic algae treatments.

The relaxation room and some cubicles have a splendid sea view.

You will also have free access to the Spa Bio Marin, a superb sea water pool heated to 33°C. Fancy a walk along the waterfront? You just have to open your door and you’re on the beach...

beauty center

© Olivier Digoit

n

Les Sources de Caudalie chemin de Smith Haut Lafitte 33650 Bordeaux-Martillac Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 83 83 83 www.sources-caudalie.com

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Camping Yelloh! Village Sylvamar avenue de l’Océan 40530 Labenne-Océan Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 45 75 16 www.duneeteau.fr

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Compagnie thermale de Dax cours de Verdun – BP 7 40101 Dax Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 90 17 04 www.thermadax.fr

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Hélianthal Hôtel thalasso & spa place Maurice Ravel – BP 469 64504 Saint-Jean-de-Luz Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 51 51 51 www.helianthal.fr

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Moulin de Larroque – Béatrice et Jean-Philippe Guitton 47230 Barbaste Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 97 23 34 o +33 (0)6 80 70 60 49 www.moulin-larroque.com

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Château des Vigiers 24240 Monestier Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 61 50 00 www.vigiers.fr

in Périgord Pourpre

© CRTA/A. Béguerie

Chai well-being area or Relais relaxation area? At the Château des Vigiers between Bordeaux and Bergerac in Périgord Pourpre, you can choose the environment that suits you. In the old wine cellar, you’ll find the beauty centre, offering a wide range of tailored treatments: after a “silky skin” scrub with Guérande salts and essential oils, you’re ready for a “marine energy” wrap. And the men aren’t forgotten, with a list of treatments especially for them. Next enjoy the heated outdoor pool surrounded by old climbing roses. The second outdoor pool waiting for you in the Relais area has a more surprising ambiance with its black lining. From the water, you can admire Château Vigiers’ splendid golf course, which gives you a chance to practise your aim on a magnificent natural course designed by Donald Steel, between rows of plum trees, oak woodland, lake and vineyard..

31

fitness With its dozens of golf courses, thousands of miles of cycle paths and signs posted bridleways, renowned ocean waves and Pyrenean mountain streams, Aquitaine is a dream location for sports-lovers. Discover our selection of invigorating trips with heart-warming stays in modern hotels and charming guesthouses.

Sports

get-aways

in Aquitaine n I nformation: Biarritz tourist information centre – square d’Ixelles 64200 Biarritz Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 22 37 10 www.biarritz-reservation.com n Hôtel Le Bellevue 5 avenue Edouard VII 64200 Biarritzµ Tel. : +33 (0)5 59 03 04 50 www.hotel-bellevue-biarritz.com

The rolling verdant fairways of the Hossegor golf course.

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

Golfing get-away on the Landes coast

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Hossegor, Seignosse, Soustons, Moliets: on a strip of less than 30km, no less than four stunning courses have greens open all year round for you to try your hand at golf or perfect your skills. Scarcely 50 metres from the Hossegor course, stay at Hôtel 202, a new modern art deco inspired establishment. After a generous breakfast in a designer atmosphere, you’re ready to tee off on the 18 hole course designed by John Morisson in 1930, perfectly sheltered from the sea breezes by a forest of pine and cork-oak.

A little further on, the rolling profile of the Blue Green course in Seignosse – regularly cited among the best courses in Europe – is characterised by its ever-present water, with the second hole located on an island.

n Information: Landes departmental tourism committee 4 avenue Aristide Briand - BP 407 40000 Mont-de-Marsan Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 06 89 89 www.tourismelandes.com n H ôtel 202 – 202 avenue du Golf 40150 Hossegor Tel. : +33 (0)5 58 43 22 02 www.hotel202.fr

The Saint-Emilion vineyard by bike In 1999, Unesco placed the Jurisdiction of Saint-Emilion on the world heritage list for its cultural landscape. Immerse yourself in this historic environment thanks to a dynamic and ecological means of transport: the bicycle! Only a short ride from the medieval town of Saint-Emilion, stay in Puisseguin, at the Château de Môle, which offers superb guest rooms with a sauna and Jacuzzi, winner of a “Best Of Wine Tourism” award in 2010. From there, take to two wheels to explore routes selected by the Saint-Emilion tourist information centre. Pomerol, Pétrus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc... As you follow the winher view of Night, anot l town the medieva ilion. of Saint-Em

sko

The sea is the uncontested star of Biarritz, particularly for surfers from all over the world who thrill to hear the names of the Côte des Basques, Marbella and Milady.

While the Grande Plage lets you surf right in front of the main tourist attractions in Biarritz – the Hôtel du Palais, the casino, the Rocher de la Vierge –, the purists’ preferred spot is without doubt the Côte des Basques, for its exceptional location with views of the Spanish coast, but also because it’s here that surfing was born in France in 1956.

Or try out the Pinsolle course at the heart of the Port d’Albret holiday resort, before starting on the prestigious Moliets course

by Robert Trent Jones: long (6200 metres), technical and physical, the challenge it poses is thrilling, particularly holes 13 to 16, played right beside the sea...

ce Heuri © A.Lanta/Agen

Between sessions, take a break at the restaurant Le Surfing to enjoy moules à la plancha among decor devoted to the god of surfing.

Then set down your boards and suitcases in Hôtel Le Bellevue, fully renovated in 2010.

Some of its elegant modern rooms have a stunning sea view. From there, you’re only a few minutes away from the brand new Cité de l’Océan et du Surf, a huge fun, educational and scientific space where you can relive unique experiences in the bosom of the ocean.

Un great weekend of surfing in Biarritz

Surfers on the Côte des Basques beach in Biarritz.

n Information: Saint-Emilion tourist onformation centre Place des Créneaux 33330 Saint-Emilion Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 55 28 28 www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com n Château de Môle 33570 Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion Tel. : +33 (0)5 57 74 60 86 www.chateau-de-mole.fr

Adventures off the ground in Périgord vert To experience a new sporting activity or to enjoy a view of the countryside with a difference, take to the heights in Paussacet-Saint-Vivien in the Dronne Valley. Qualified instructor Damien Souchal welcomes you to the Maison de l’Escalade to initiate you (there’s even an indoor wall) or to get you ready to take on one of the 80 vertical

routes on offer. Reach the top of the “Schtroumpfette” or of the “Cigogne”, appreciate the view over the forest and see the cluzeaux, once inhabited caves hollowed out of the cliff face.

Ready for more adventures? Head towards Lanouaille on the edge of the Périgord-Limousin regional natural park. At the Rouffiac leisure centre, you can go climbing in a 100 hectare woodland park, or take to the tree-tops on an assault course. Trouble coming back down to earth? Spend the night in a treehouse at the nearby Moulin de la Jarousse. Watch out, or you’ll soon be mistaken for a bird...

the region with its wooden covered market and imposing fortified church, admire Castillonnès and its pretty main square ringed by arcades, pass the unusual Maison aux Cariatides in Lauzun and trot through open country, woods, orchards and fields.

Before reaching Duras, a charming village on an outcrop flanked by a magnificent château, make a refreshing stop in Saint-Jeande-Duras, where Lionel and Dominique Payen will welcome you to the beautiful Gîtes de Momiac (4 Gîtes de France ‘ears of corn’). After a long day in the saddle, it’s wonderful to float in the natural swimming pool, surrounded by reeds, water lilies, papyrus and hibiscus. nI nformation: Lot-et-Garonne departmental tourism committee 271 rue de Péchabout – 47005 Agen-Cedex Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 66 14 14 www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com n Gîtes de Momiac 47120 Saint-Jean-de-Duras Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 94 59 04 www.gitesdemomiac.com

nI nformation: Maison de l’escalade 24310 Paussac-et-Saint-Vivien Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 08 99 72 n R ouffiac leisure centre 24270 Lanouaille Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 52 68 79 www.semitour.com n Moulin de la Jarousse 24270 Lanouaille Tel. : +33 (0)5 53 52 37 91 www.location-en-dordogne.com/moulin/index.php

Pony-trekking in the Pays du Dropt In the northwest of Lot-et-Garonne, a well sign-posted 200 km loop winds through the Pays du Dropt, a rolling landscape among the medieval villages and vineyards of Duras With your horse, explore Villeréal, one of the most beautiful medieval towns in

© Château de Missandre

ding routes, coast, terraces and headlands provide superb views over the region’s prestigious and unique châteaux, the silver ribbon of the Dordogne, the hint of ochre in the stone of Saint-Emilion’s houses and bell tower. Follow the route to Saint-Laurent-des-Combes, a small village with a big view. Back at the Château de Môle, relax your muscles with a shiatsu massage session, discover wine making techniques in the cellars and taste the estate’s vintages.

om © Thinkstock.c

© Biarritz Tourisme - Le Doare

or Rock climbing assault course in the trees, ights take to the he rt. in Périgord ve

33

Astrology

Your Aquitaine holiday

Horoscope

Luxury hotel with sea views or guest house in the countryside? Museum tours in the city or a restful break at the heart of a vineyard?

Look to your star sign for inspiration from our choice of sights to see and places to stay.

(21 March – 20 April)

Dynamic and hyperactive, wide open spaces and places looking to the future are for you.

Your destination: Cap Sciences in Bordeaux, which presents exciting scientific exhibits. apasionantes. www.cap-sciences.net Your accommodation: The Château Bouynot guesthouse in Saint-Sauveur-de-Meilhan, for their modern decor and proximity to the Casteljaloux golf course. www.chateaubouynot.fr.

Taurus

(21 april – 20 may)

Calm and uncomplicated in character, you need holidays in a traditional place, close to nature.

Your destination: Aïnhoa in the Basque countryside, to savour piqillos à la morue. www.ainhoa.fr

Sagittarius

Exuberant and flamboyant, you seek lively places where you can really shine and you throw yourself into sporting challenges.

A compulsive explorer, you are constantly looking for wide open spaces and exceptional landscapes.

(23 july - 22 august)

Your destination: Lacanau-Océan, to test yourself against the best surfers in the world. www.medococean.com Your accommodation: 5 stars or none, the place for you is the Grand Hôtel in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, overlooking one of the most beautiful bays on the Basque Coast. www.luzgrandhotel.fr

Virgo

(23 august - 22 september)

A lover of both art and nature, you favour the quiet of the countryside.

Your destination: the Route des Métiers d’Art in Périgord, to discover exceptional traditions and skills. http://metiersdart-aquitaine.fr/

Your accommodation: Le Colombier in Roque-Gageac, a gîte in a converted former tobacco drying room. www.gite-auberge-dordogne.fr

Your accommodation: recharge your batteries in a safari tent at Simply Canvas, at the heart of French Tuscany in Lot-et-Garonne. www.simplycanvas.eu

Gemini

Libra

Always on the move, you love city environments and seaside ambiance.

Passionate about beautiful things, you are a culture and gastronomy enthusiast.

Your destination: Bayonne, for its boisterous summer festivals, decked out in red and white. www.bayonne-tourisme.com

Your destination: at the gateway to the Pyrenees, stop off in Oloron-Sainte-Marie, a centre of Art and History. www.tourisme-oloron.com

Your accommodation: Hôtel La Co(o)rniche in Pyla-sur-Mer, an establishment in the Bassin d’Arcachon reinvented by the designer Philippe Starck. www.lacoorniche-pyla.com

Your accommodation: among the vines of SaintEmilion, discover the flavour-filled cooking of Philippe Etchebest at the Hostellerie de Plaisance. www.hostellerie-plaisance.com

(21 may – 21 june)

Cancer

(22 june – 22 july)

Intuitive and sensitive, you love the charm of old stones and intimate atmospheres.

Your destination: the Landes in Armagnac for their medieval villages and distilleries housing the oldest eau-de-vie in France. www.tourisme-landesdarmagnac.fr Your accommodation: the Lamy farm, a beautiful eighteenth century sandstone building at the heart dof Périgord noir. www.ferme-lamy.com

34

(23 september- 22 october)

scorpio

(23 october - 22 november)

In search of originality and rejuvenation, you need a holiday off the beaten track.

Your destination: fêtes de la Madeleine in Montde-Marsan, Feria de Dax... Don a red headscarf and become a “festayre” in Landes! www.tourismelandes.com Your accommodation: at the heart of Périgord Pourpre, live a unique experience in the Maison d’Hikarie’s Mongolian yurt. www.maison-hikarie.com

(23 november - 21 december)

Your destination: at the heart of the Gironde estuary, spend a wonderful evening on the Ile de Patiras. www.refugedepatiras.com Your accommodation: stay at the feet of the sand dunes in one of the Côte & Dune’s charming bedrooms in Biscarrosse-Plage. www.cotedune.fr

Capricorn

(22 december - 20 January)

Quiet and solitary in nature, you prefer a relaxed break to recharge your batteries.

Your destination: hire a barge without a license and drift lazily along the Garonne canal. www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com Su dirección: in the hills of the wine country of Entre-deux-Mers, stop off at the Villa d’Ô, a charming hotel with modern rooms.www.lavillado.fr

Aquarius

(21 January - 20 february)

An enthusiastic person, you seek thrills and a change of scenery.

Your destination: rafting, banana boats or hydrospeed, rush down mountain gorges in Béarn. www.tourisme-bearn-gaves.com Your accommodation: turn back time at the Relais de Roquefereau, an old thirteenth century hunting lodge near Penne d’Agenais. www.lerelaisderoquefereau.com

Pisces

(21 february – 20 march)

Sensitive and romantic, you need to dream, to be inspired by places with a timeless beauty.

Your destination: lthe gardens of Latour-Marliac in Lot-et-Garonne, home to the splendid water lilies that inspired the painter Claude Monet. www.latour-marliac.com Your accommodation: the newly renovated Hôtel du Fronton, at the heart of the Basque village of Bidart between the village hall, church and fronton or ball court. www.hoteldufronton.com

© CRTA/J.J. Brochard

ARIES

Leo

© photo credits: CRTA/L. Reiz - J.J. Brochard - A. Béguerie • Jardins de Marqueyssac/Laugery - SARL Latour-Marliac • CDT64/Philippe Laplace

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