Aquitane Magazine 2013

GETTING AWAY

ON A HABITABLE BOAT

TOP TIPS

ORIGINAL ACCOMMODATION

FOR UNDER 100 €

ALONG THE CANAL DE GARONNE

GETAWAYS

IN THE SHOES OF

A SHEPHERD, OF AN OYSTER FARMER,…

© Hervé Lefebvre

GUEST A fourth generation restaurateur, Nicolas Magie comes from Cenon, near Bordeaux. After learning his trade in the kitchens of the Rouzic, Michel Gautier’s famed restaurant, he moved on to work at the Pavillon des Boulevards with Denis Franc and then the Miramar in Biarritz. It was in the Basque country that he met his wife, with whom he opened his own restaurant in Cenon, Have you got a good recipe to after working in Paris at the start the holidays?

Crillon with Christian Constant.

Ideal for going mushroom hunting with He ended up back where it all my father, I like a sandwich made with began! Clearly influenced by his cornbread with Espelette pepper from childhood and local ingredients, the Constanti bakery in Oloron-Saintehis cuisine was awarded a star Marie, with Louis Ospital sliced meat, Rollet-gérard cheese and a bottle of wine in the 2004 Michelin Guide. from the Domaine de Valmengaux. For a After 13 years at the helm, in family holiday, without hesitation I’d say September 2012, he took over a barbecue with a piece of pork Lepoa from Michel Portos at the Saintand a piece of skirt steak, served with James restaurant in Bouliac. vegetables that are also grilled using charcoal.

Nicolas Magie:

The Aquitaine I love.

One of your favourite walks?

In the autumn and winter, I go to Ascain in the Basque country, towards the Ibardin col. In the spring and summer, I go to the Haute Lande, towards Hostens and SaintSymphorien. I love nature, it brings me calm and fullness.

Black truffles from the Perigord region! They are my passion.

I can’t resist a piece of toast with half-salted butter and grated truffles. I also enjoy Ibaiona ham with fat that is rich in flavours, and resists well to cooking or pigeon that has been fed only whole grain, making it incredibly tender, with a powerful taste, melting in your mouth.

© Maison Eguiazabal

The wine bar Maison Eguiazabal, in Hendaye. I always feel at home there, with its very impressive wine menu. I love Vivien Durand’s cuisine, so fresh and spontaneous, and made with regional ingredients.

© Thinkstock

Do you know a g o o d p l a ce to have lunch?

Can you name two or three Aquitaine products that you particularly enjoy?

… to sleep? Definitely the Saint-James!

© laffargue

© Hervé Lefebvre

With its view of B o rd e a u x , i t i s l i ke a p a t c h o f countryside in the heart of the city, and it introduces you to the world of Jean Nouvel.

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n Restaurant le Bonheur du Palais 74 rue Paul Louis Lande 33000 Bordeaux Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 94 38 63

© Thinkstock

… and for dinner? Le Bonheur du Palais, in Bordeaux: It’s the best Chinese restaurant in France. André and Tommy Shan use only local, French ingredients, which they cook in the Sichan style.

n Hôtel restaurant le Saint James 3 Place Camille Hostein 33270 Bouliac Tél. : +33 (0)5 57 97 06 00 www.saintjames-bouliac.com

Which market is worth a look around?

The market in Libourne, where I find most of my suppliers, such as the fish merchant gilles Perrier, or the cheese-maker Rollet-gérard, who only selects cheese made with raw milk.

I also go to Fargues-Saint-Hilaire for the butcher Sepeau, or fruits and vegetables at Fruimandise.

Will you ever feel like leaving Aquitaine?

I am always wearing my Lafargue belt from Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

n Restaurant « The wine bar Maison Eguiazabal » 3 route de Béhobie 64700 Hendaye Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 20 67 09 www.eguiazabal.com n Maison Louis Ospital 47, rue Jean Lissar 64240 Hasparren Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 29 64 41 www.louis-ospital.com n Marché couvert de Libourne 1 rue Montesquieu 33500 Libourne Ouvert du mardi au dimanche de 6h00 à 13h00. n Boucherie Sepeau 33 avenue de l’Entre-deux-Mers 33370 Fargues-saint-Hilaire n Primeur Fruimandise 33 avenue de l’Entre-deux-Mers 33370 Fargues-saint-Hilaire n Boulangerie Constanti Boulevard des Pyrenees 64400 Oloron-sainte-Marie n Domaine de Valmengaux 8 Petit Gontey 33330 Saint-Emilion Tél. : +33 (0)5 57 74 48 92 www.valmengaux.com

FROM VINEyARDS TO CHâTEAUx

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A UNIqUE HOLIDAy IN CHARMINg VILLAgES

SPORTS gET-AWAyS

© Le Doaré

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© Reiz Laurent / CRTA

© Béguerie Alain / CRTA

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Edito

Oceanic barrier beaches, valleys and landscapes carved out by the rivers and gorges from the Pyrenees, the largest estuary in Europe, forest stretching as far as the eye can see, high mountains… Where can you find such a wide variety of landscapes, just 3 hours from Paris by TgV? In Aquitaine!

Once you arrive, the adventure is just beginning! Here, you can take part in the grape-harvest in one of the region’s 15 vineyards, navigate the rivers and canals in a habitable boat or barge, take part in sporting activities including surfing, hiking or golf, follow the migration of a herd of sheep with a shepherd or get on your bike to discover the Vélodyssée®, a new bike path which follows the Atlantic coast between sand dunes and pine forests… Read this magazine to discover a selection of the many activities available throughout the year in Aquitaine. And to discover great things to do in the region, check out the website www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr and don’t forget to visit our Tourisme d’Aquitaine Facebook page!

LEISURE HILDReN 4 CVélodyssée®, the family adventure 12 eCO-TOURISM

Green sensations in the nature parks of Aquitaine

15 GeTTING AWAYS

Relax on a habitable boat

18 eSCAPe

A unique holiday in charming villages

21 URBAN TOURISM

The museums will introduce you in the towns in Aquitaine

SHOPPING 24 LOCAL PRODUCTS

ACCOMMODATION 14 eCO-TOURISM Nature holigays

20 UNIQUe AND CHeAP

Original accommodation under 100 €

PLUS

27 GeTAWAYS

UeST 2 GNicolas Magie

30 WeLL-BeING

25 ReCIPeS

32 FITNeSS

34 MYSTeRY QUIZ

Sharing the professions of Aquitaine Soothing retreats on the campsites Sports get-aways in Aquitaine

PORTFOLIO ISCOVeRY 6 DFrom vineyards to châteaux

tells us about his Aquitaine Traditional dishes from the region How well do you know Aquitaine?

35 MAP OF AQUITAINe

Magazine published by the Aquitaine Regional Tourist Board: 4/5 Place Jean Jaurès - 33074 BORDEAUX CEDEX - France ; Tél. : +33(0)5 56 01 70 00 Fax : +33(0)5 56 01 70 07. Web : tourisme-aquitaine.fr.

Design and production: Citron Pressé - Editor: SLS Conseil - Illustrations : Christine ROUSSEY - Printing: Korus.

Document printed on certified PEFC paper from sustainably managed forests, under control n° PEFC/10-31-1118 - Page 20 : indicative prices in 2013.

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LEISURE ACTIvITIES FOR kIDS With fresh memories from his prehistoric holiday, Lucas convinced his parents to go back to Aquitaine, this time to discover a route for bicycle tourists, inaugurated in June 2012 called the Vélodyssée®. Get on your bike, and follow him from the Pointe de Graves in Hendaye, with the Atlantic Ocean as a backdrop.

Vélodyssée , ®

ThE fAmIlY AdvENTurE AlONG ThE AquITAINE cOAST Wakeboard in Lacanau Next, we started our trip along the Vélodyssée, the cycling path is easy to identify with the logo present on the sign posts.

After 8 kilometres, we made a first stop in Soulac-sur-Mer, the oldest seaside resort in the Médoc region. At the tourism office, they gave me a game called “on the trail of Robin” to discover the town while having fun. We visited the Notre-Dame de la Fin des Terres basilica, one of the stops on the road to Santiago de Compostella, and we admired the pink brick villas built over a century ago.

love riding my bike. For Christmas, my parents got me a really nice one, and when we found out that France’s longest cycling route had just been opened, we decided to go back to Aquitaine to try part of the itinerary.

From Brittany to the Basque country, it is over 1200 kilometres in length, which is a bit much for my tiny legs!

I loved arriving by ferry in Verdon-surMer, it was like going on a cruise. In the distance, we saw a magnificent lighthouse, that of Cordouan. The next day, we climbed the 311 steps to reach the lantern!

Games and tours in the Bay of Arcachon After Lège-Cap-Ferret, the Vélodyssée runs along an old railway line, but pedalling is easy since it is completely flat.

And it’s a good job too, because I was in a hurry to get to Gujan-Mestras to see the animals in the Parc de la Coccinelle and to go down the slides at Aqualand.

After, I went to the Maison de l’Huître with my parents, where we learned all there is to know about growing oysters with films and interactive exhibits.

© Thinkstock

I

After a picnic at the beach, we continued our way through the pine-wood towards Lacanau, a Famille Plus resort. Amongst all the activities listed in my “Little Explorer Book”, I chose an initiation course to wakeboard at Lacanau lake. It’s brilliant sliding across the water like a water-skier, but using a surf board!

The Vélodyssée® in Aquitaine represents:

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© C. Maufroid / CRTA

• 20 stages of between 5 and 31 kilometres between Verdon-sur-Mer and Hendaye; • 400 kilometres in total; • 3 departments crossed: Gironde, Landes and Pyrenees-Atlantiques.

© SIBA - B.RUIZ

After going around Arcachon Bay, the Vélodyssée allows you to discover the charms of the Landes coast.

Treasure hunts in Mimizan and Seignosse

© Laurent Ressicaud

We continued our journey in the Landes forest until we got to Biscarrosse. While Mum was sunbathing on the beach, I took a surfing lesson, the waves were perfect.

The next day, after a long ride, we arrived in Mimizan, a Kid resort. There, I took part in a treasure hunt called “Let’s take a walk in the forest” with other children: with a notebook and compass, we looked for treasure hidden in the forest. I had a lot of fun, and made lots of friends.

Then we got back on our bikes, and headed towards Contis and the river that we travelled down on a canoe, I felt like an explorer! We saw a kingfisher and a

grey heron, but I didn’t see any otters or European minks, which are protected species, that is why the site is listed as Natura 2000.

My parents chose to stay a few days in Seignosse, which is another Famille Plus resort. With a guide from the National Forest Office, we saw a demonstration of pine-tapping (gathering of resin), then we visited the town by taking part in a modern treasure hunt, called “geocaching”. From the market place to the beach, without forgetting the skating park and the largest water park in the Landes, Atlantic Park, we saw all there was to see in Seignosse.

© Cité de l’Océan Biarritz

The Cité de l’Ocean in Biarritz.

At the Musée Aquarium d’Arcachon, we saw all of the species that can be found in the Bay of Arcachon: Fish, seashells, birds, mammals…

After this getaway in the Bay of Arcachon, we got back on the official Vélodyssée route at the Dune du Pilat. From the top, the view is extraordinary with the ocean on one side, and the pine forest on the other. We laughed so hard when we were running down the sand dune!

descending to the depths of Capbreton aboard a bathyscaphe. Going back up, we had reached our final stop along the Vélodyssée: Hendaye, at the Spanish border. There, we took a last trip on a sea kayak along the Basque coast.»

Stand up paddle and kayak along the Basque coast After a short bike ride, we arrived in the Basque country after crossing the Adour river in Bayonne. After wakeboarding and surfing, I tried stand up paddle at La Barre beach in Anglet, the Vélodyssée passes very close to it. At first it isn’t easy keeping your balance but all you have to do is use the oar to float across the water.

Travelling along the Basque coast, we arrived at the Musée de la Mer in Biarritz, which has fish from all over the world in beautiful aquariums. The best part is seeing the seals having a meal. From there, it only took a few minutes to get to Planète musée chocolat. I followed the kids trail called “On the trail of Quetzaco”, which teaches the different stages in making chocolate by hand. Then we stopped off at the Cité de l’Océan, where a 3D animation allows you to simulate Atlantic Park in Seignosse.

n Vélodyssée® : www.lavelodyssee.com n Soulac-sur-Mer : www.soulac.com n Lacanau kite & wake center : www.lacanaukite-wakecenter.com n Maison de l’Huître à Gujan-Mestras : www.maisondelhuitre.fr n Dune du Pilat : www.ladunedupilat.com n Biscarrosse : www.biscarrosse.com n Mimizan : www.mimizan-tourisme.com n Courant de Contis : www.pays-cote-argent.com n Atlantic Park : www.seignosse.com/atlantic-park.html n Planète musée chocolat : www.planetemuseeduchocolat.com n Musée de la mer et cité de l’Océan à Biarritz : www.biarritzocean.com n Kayak à Hendaye : www.hendaye-tourisme.fr

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by Alain Béguerie

PORTFoLIo As the culminating point of the Sauternais and overlooking the Ciron valley, the château d’yquem is the first superior first vintage in Sauternes. Listed as a historic monument in 2003 for its decor and frescos, the château forms a quadrilateral shape around a large courtyard which has a massive well in its centre.

To have the chance to enter the warehouse and taste one of the yquem vintages, you must ask at the Langon Tourism Office, which organizes “Sauternes Prestige” tours, on certain days of each year.

Alain Béguerie, a photographer, lives and works in Bordeaux. He collaborates with various publishers on very different subjects such as rugby, architectural heritage, cuisine, painting and human activity in general. In his portfolio, he highlights the abundance of vineyards in Aquitaine, which have been grown by passionate wine-makers who invite you to discover their food and culture within their châteaux, of which they are so proud.

It is rare to find a wine-making property that still makes their own barrels. Still filling the warehouse with the sound of his hammer, the barrel-maker at château Margaux – the first fine wine to obtain the AOC Margaux appellation – makes three barrels per day. These barrels are the living symbol of a culture which still places man at its centre, like the barrel-maker who evolves in his workshop.

From vineyards

to châteaux With an incredibly rich terroir, the Blayais vineyard covers 6000 hectares bordering the gironde region, the largest estuary in Europe. “Apéro-barriques’’ at château Lavenceau, “Forme et Ferme” day at the domaine Tout l’y Faut or “Festibalades” by Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux: The wine-makers are happy to welcome you to their family properties and offer you a fun time learning about and discovering their wine.

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by Alain BĂŠguerie

PORTFoLIo

Present in Aquitaine’s five departments, vines are the key to so many discoveries. In the Lot-et-garonne, take a hot air balloon ride over the Pays de Duras and take in the magnificent landscapes with valleys and hills, vines and orchards, cultivated fields and meadows. Don’t forget to see the medieval castle in Duras, which overlooks the Maison des vins de Duras and the vineyard.

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by Alain Béguerie

PORTFoLIo

A jewel in the prestigious Monbazillac vineyard in “Purple” Perigord, the château de Monbazillac has its four circular towers erected on a mound overlooking the Dordogne valley and Bergerac. Built during the 16th century, it has unique architecture, a combination of medieval defence systems and elegance from the Renaissance. After taking this mustsee tour along the Bergerac wine route, you’ll be offered a tasting of Monbazillac.

In Eugénie-les-Bains in the Landes, Michel guérard, a renowned chef at Les Prés d’Eugénie restaurant, will combine cuisine and fitness. It is at the Domaine du château de Bachen, listed on the additional inventory of historical monuments with around 20 hectares of vines in the Tursan appellation, that he makes his batches. Erected on a plateau overlooking the Adour river, the château de Bachen comprises a dwelling which, with its high roof, resembles the architecture of Béarn.

At the gateway to Bordeaux on the right bank of the garonne, Latresne has 40 hectares of vines. The Château de Malherbes is the principal estate in the municipality of Entre-Deux-Mers, with a 13 hectare vineyard overlooking Bordeaux, which benefits from exceptional exposure. It was erected at the end of the 14th century by a knight returning from the Crusades, guilhem of Malherbes.

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by Alain Béguerie

PORTFoLIo

Located in the same area as Madiran and close to Jurançon, the Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh is an appellation which produces dry white wine, mellow wine as well as sweet wine: to gather the ripened grapes – from a fourth sorting –, the wine-makers wait for the first day of winter. This late harvest produces the well-known winter Pacherenc, a confidential and very sought-after product, which goes perfectly with foie gras.

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by Alain Béguerie

PORTFoLIo

On a prestigious terroir, the Château d’Arsac harmoniously combines tradition and modernity. Its owner, Philippe Raoux, renovated the buildings in a resolutely contemporary style: steel, wood, glass roof, wine warehouse in stainless steel and raised in klein blue… After having visited the “garden of Sculptures”, an impressive collection of art pieces, head to the Winery, a wine tourism area where you’ll discover your “signe œnologique ®” (oenological sign), take part in tasting sessions or explore the vineyard.

The Jurisdiction of Saint-Emilion has been listed on Unesco’s World Heritage list thanks to its cultural landscapes since 1999. From the tower of the château du Roy or the promontory at the foot of the monolith church’s bell tower, admire the old medieval town with its old steep streets and stone mansions. In the distance, an ocean of vines will remind you that you are in one of the world’s most famous vineyards.

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by Alain Béguerie

PORTFoLIo

Set up in the hills of the Basque country by the monks of Roncevaux during the 12th century, the vineyard of Irouléguy, the smallest AOC in France, extends across 240 hectares of vines. At the foot of the Pyrenees and next to the mountains of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, it is laid out on levels across sloped terrain, in the heart of landscapes of unrivalled beauty. Come and meet wine-makers who are passionate about their terroir, they’ll let you visit their wine warehouse and taste their wine.

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Along the Leyre on a canoe or amongst the trees of the Landes de Gascogne regional nature park, by foot or by rail bike in the Périgord Limousin regional nature park, paragliding in the Pyrenees national park, take the time to discover these protected areas with diverse landscapes.

ECO-TOURISM

Green sensations

in the nature parks of Aquitaine Nature canoe on the Leyre

www.canoesurlaleyre.com

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GI RO N D e

Climb… and sleep in the trees Committed to environmentally-friendly tourism near the Landes de Gascogne regional nature park, Manu Obry, a guide and leisure organizer, awaits you

© Brochard Jean-Jacques / CRTA

A true connection between the pine forest and the Bay of Arcachon, the Leyre runs through the Landes de Gascogne regional nature park across 135 kilometres. The best way to discover this wild river is in a canoe, whether for a few hours or a hike of several days. Embark from one of the park’s three bases, the gîte de Saugnac, the centre du Graoux in Belin-Beliet or the Maison de la Nature du Bassin d’Arcachon at Le Teich. Under the archway of plants in this gallery forest, listen to the sound of birds singing and observe this natural environment’s inhabitants: a kingfisher

taking flight, then further on a heron fishing… Want to find out more about this fascinating place? Book your place on a 10-seater canoe, which is particularly stable and safe. While your guide steers the boat, he will tell you the history of the Leyre and its landscapes.

Two regional nature parks in Aquitaine…

“A regional nature park is an inhabited rural area, recognized on a national level for its heritage and landscapes, which is organized around a sustainable development plan, founded on the protection and promotion of its heritage.”

Aquitaine has two such parks, that of the Landes de Gascogne which is spread across the departments of the Landes and Gironde, and that of Périgord Limousin which stretches from northern Dordogne to southern Haute-Vienne. Ecotourism offers the keys to these preserved areas, where all the players ensure that the balance between man and nature remains harmonious. n www.parc-landes-de-gascogne.fr n www.parc-naturel-perigord-limousin.fr/

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in Balizac, between Bazas and Hostens.

Since 2004, he has been taking people into the forest to see magnificent trees that you can safely climb.

The adventure starts with an initiation session: Prepare your equipment, learn how to tie knots and set up your ropes to safely move from branch to branch.

Move around the tree tops, observe and discover the tree-filled landscapes of the Park. Then, prolong the experience by spending a night in a bivouac, with a hammock set up in the tree of your choice.

Rocked to sleep by the night air, with the rustling of the leaves, you’ll leave the next day with your head full of memories!

Accro d’Aventures – Manu Obry Pinot ouest – 33730 Balizac Tél. : +33 (0)6 80 61 53 63 www.accro-aventures33.com

© PNR des landes de gascogne

L AND e S

© Photo-Léonard / OT Thiviers

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DORDO G N e

Paragliding in the Aspe valley

D O RD O GN e

In the Pyrenees national park, the Aspe valley offers many hiking trails, a nationally-renowned paragliding spot: the Accous spot. Just a few steps with your qualified instructor and you’ll be in the air for a two-person flight that will show you what it is like to fly.

Guided hike in the country of forges and châteaux

Rail bike in “Green” Perigord 40 kilometres north of Périgueux, between Thiviers and Excideuil, the Corgnac-sur-l’Isle station is no longer expecting passengers on this section of the old rail line between Brive and Angoulême. Today, you can get on board a strange looking wagon with pedals, to get between Thiviers or Saint-Germaindes-Prés.

Between small valleys and rivers, these two 11 kilometres lines are full of charm, with bridges, viaducts, tunnels and oldfashioned stations where old abandoned wagons watch you pass by. Make sure you save your strength, the track is not as flat as you might imagine. Thankfully, you’ll get a welcome break at each road crossing: It is your job to lift up the barriers! Once you get to Thiviers or Saint-Germaindes-Prés station, take a few moments at the drinks stand while your small wagon is turned around to head back to Corgnac.

Want to discover the Périgord-Limousin regional nature park at your own pace? Five foot paths with digital audio and videoguides await you, talking about the forest, legends, the châteaux, the wildlife… At the far south side of the park near Nontron for example, discover the Mareuillais.

After having rented your Randio’guide at the Tourism Office, head to the starting point of the trail, at the Beaurecueil horse riding centre in Saint-Sulpice-de-Mareuil.

Thanks to the built-in GPS system, watch the videos with commentary at each point of interest: they speak of the truffle oaks, the poplar plantation or the history of the château de la Vergne, which overlooks the valley. Following this fun and interactive nine kilometre stroll, you’ll know all there is to know about the Nizonne valley!

Chemin de fer du Périgord Vert 24800 Corgnac-sur-l’Isle Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 52 42 93 www.veloraildefrance.com/velorail24

Relax, and admire the Aspe valley beneath your feet, which follows the gorge to the col of Somport and leads the pilgrims towards Santiago de Compostella. You’ll notice the green colours of the forests and pastures and the red of the sandstone. But beware, you’ll soon need to land so listen carefully to instructions and set the glider down softly after spending a time you’ll never forget.

Office de tourisme de la vallée d’Aspe Place Sarraillé – 64490 Bedous Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 34 57 57

© Reiz Laurent / CRTA

Location Randio’guide : 4 euros par appareil et par balade.

Office de tourisme de Nontron Avenue du Général Leclerc 24300 Nontron Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 56 25 50

P YRe N e e S - AT LA N T IQUeS

© Brochard Jean-Jacques / CRTA

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3 © Vélorail du Chemin de Fer Touristique du Périgord Vert

© Accro d’aventure

© C. Molitor

ECO-TOURISM

…and a national park!

Like the other nine national parks, the Pyrenees national park pertains to the cultural identity of France, in the same way as the most prestigious cultural facilities. In Aquitaine, it includes the upper part of the Aspe and Ossau valleys. Between the heart of the park, a fragile and protected natural jewel, and the partnership zone (which includes the municipalities close to the heart), with remarkable areas which require sustainable development, it is possible to take part in many activities: hikes along marked-out paths (including the GR10), guided walks to discover the park’s biodiversity, the history and traditions of the valleys or pastoral life, fishing in the lakes and rivers, tours of the Maisons du Parc at Laruns in the Ossay valley and in Etsaut in the Aspe valley. n www.parc-pyrenees.com

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ECO-TOURISM

© yelloh ! Village Les grands Pins 33680 Lacanau-Océan

Holidays in the heart of nature!

LeS GRANDS PINS CAMPSITe in Lacanau-Océan

of Sarlat, have lunch at the Auberge de la Rhonie, where local suppliers who are environmentally-friendly are preferred. It is hard to resist the foie gras, mushroom omelette or the tarte aux noix.

Laid out on terraces across 14 hectares of undulating land, Les Grands Pins campsite is just 350 metres from the huge fine sand beach and the ocean.

Make yourself at home amongst the pine trees, strawberry trees and jennets, and enjoy a holiday that respects this natural environment. Even the kids will get involved in Les Grands Pins’ ecological commitment, with activities on recycling waste.

n Domaine de la Rhonie – Boyer – 24220 Meyrals Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 29 29 07 www.domainedelarhonie.com

© Drezen

HôTeL WINDSOR in the Basque country

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Energy and water savings, sorting and reduction of waste are all mentioned on the charter that is handed to you when you arrive at the Louis Forestier holiday village, located between the ocean and Hossegor lake. In the summer, this environmental commitment involves organising family outings to discover the Landes landscape, its traditions and ecological stakes. n Le village-club Louis Forestier 7 avenue Jean Moulin – 40510 Seignosse le Penon Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 43 31 15 www.louisforestier.com

Not only does the Hôtel Windsor provide a panoramic view of the Grande Plage de Biarritz beach, it is also ideally located in the heart of the town centre, with direct access to the beach. Whether from your room, with a contemporary decor (ask for a room with a view of the ocean), from the “Galion” restaurant or sat on the terrace at the “Bleu café”, you won’t be able to help yourself from admiring the Bay of Biscay. Wishing to preserve the environment, this old private mansion has implemented a waste and energy management system. n Hôtel Windsor – 11, avenue Edouard VII 64200 Biarritz. Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 24 08 52 www.hotelwindsorbiarritz.com

CAMPING DU LAC in the Seignanx area Committed with the Seignanx area to a collective eco-tourism and sustainable development procedure, the Camping du Lac proudly displays its European

© Hôtel Windsor

© Domaine de la Rhonie

THe LOUIS FOReSTIeR VILLAGe-CLUB in Seignosse

Walls made of Perigord stone, wooden beams, Italian-style showers… The twelve rooms at the Hôtellerie de la Rhonie combine charm and modernity.

After visiting the Pôle international de la Préhistoire in Eyzies or the medieval town

eco-label. On the shores of a lake in the pine forest, it is just 3.5 kilometres from the ocean beaches. Between a bike ride and some time spent relaxing in the spa area, do your part in preserving the natural environment of the southern Landes coast. n Camping du Lac – 518 rue de Janin – 40440 Ondres Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 45 28 45 www.camping-du-lac.fr

n Camping Les Grands Pins – Yelloh! village 33680 Lacanau Océan. Tél : +33 (0)5 57 70 03 89 www.lesgrandspins.com

DOMAINe De LA RHONIe in ‘‘Black’’ Perigord

© Studio Méravilles

Campsites, hotels, guest rooms… In Aquitaine, an increasing amount of establishments are boasting the small green flower from the European eco-label, the only official eco-label in Europe. It is the perfect opportunity to prove that it is possible to be a holidaymaker and care for the environment.

Renting a boat which requires no license, means spending a holiday at your own pace, discovering villages and fortified villages on foot, getting on your bike for cultural and gourmet outings or simply taking the time to breathe… From Buzet-sur-Baïse to Castets-en-Dorthe then towards Agen or Nérac, follow us on this unique cruise on the canal de Garonne and the Baïse.

GETTING AWAy

Relax on a habitable boat aloNg tHe caNal de

S

at comfortably on the terrace of your navigable boat, you’ll relax under the century-old plane trees that line the canal de Garonne. The silence is impressive, you suddenly lose all sense of time, far from the hustle of daily life. While watching the water move beneath the hull, the only worry you’ll have is deciding on your next destination…

A few days earlier, your holiday began in the bucolic atmosphere of the nautical base of Buzet-sur-Baïse. The double-lock, the towing trail and the flotilla of barges moored at the dock will immediately plunge you

garoNNe

into the 19th century, when horses pulled the boat’s merchandise.

Learning to navigate The first two hours are dedicated to learning how to steer your boat: “A technician will board your boat to take you on a short ride and will moor the boat for you, allowing you to become independent”, explains Nicole Fabre at Aquitaine Navigation, a boat rental company. Are the barges ready to set off? Get on board your navigable boat with your bikes, from two persons for a couple, to 8/15 persons with five cabins.

For the entire duration of your journey, you are the captain of the ship!

From Buzet-sur-Baïse, head west towards Castets-en-Dorthe, where the canal flows into the Garonne. With an average speed of eight kilometres per hour, alternating between sunflower fields and orchards, the different stages will unfold faster than you imagined on this waterway which is listed on Unesco’s World Heritage list.

Stop off wherever tickles your fancy to visit the Damazan fortified town, with its covered market building surrounded by colourful houses, or Mas d’Agenais,

© Smavlot / CRTA

At your own pace, you navigate between Val de Garonne and Pays d’Albret. Your cruise is punctuated by breaks lazing by the river and the discovery of remarkable historical sites.

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GETTING AWAy one of the oldest villages in Lot-et-Garonne where the Roman Collegiate houses a Rembrandt painting, the “Crucifixion of Christ”.

Gourmet stops and bike rides ”Bienvenue à la maison éclusière 42!” This is how Thierry Vervack will welcome you to La Chope et le Pichet, a bistrot-restaurant located nine kilometres from Mas d’Agenais.

While his wife Katarina prepares small dishes using fresh ingredients from her garden, Thierry will answer your questions and deliver bread for your breakfast.

Want to head away from the canal or walk along the towing path? Unload your bikes and you’ll be in Marmande in no time. The tomato capital is best discovered using the Izzy Guide, which contains audio, photo and video material that will activate automatically

when you pass by a point of interest, such as the Saint-Benoît chapel, a jewel of baroque art, or the cloister of Notre-Dame church, with its remarkable garden.

You have to stop in Couthures-sur-Garonne, a small village that is closely related to the Garonne and its water level. For two hours, the spectacle-course of the Gens de Garonne will allow you to discover life by the river thanks to “scenovision” a unique scenography concept combining images, sound, odours and special effects.

Locks and aqueducts Passing through the first lock is naturally a memorable moment on your cruise. But don’t worry, the manoeuvre is easy and each time you pass one, it only takes around 15 minutes. During this time, exchange places to go and eat with fellow amateur boatmen.

Going through the locks is part of the adventure. It is also a convivial moment marked by exchanges with boaters or the lock keeper.

“At the Lagruère nautical stop, we had a good time at the Bout de la Côte, a Cafe with the terrace overlooking the canal”, said Vincent, a regular user of the canal: “We chose the SudOuest meal plan, which was delicious with a Gascon salad, a stuffed duck leg and an apple and prune crumble”.

Castets-en-Dorthe marks the western extremity of the canal which, with the famous twostage lock no. 53, serves as a junction with the Garonne river. But your boat is not equipped to pass, so you’ll need to turn around to return to Buzet-sur-Baïse and start the second part of your journey, this time moving through Agen country. This part of the canal will take you past the famous Agen aquaduct, the longest in France after that of Briare with its 549 metres and 23 arches. Time to disembark to visit the biggest town in Lot-et-Garonne, its medieval streets and its Fine Arts Museum.

Next, head to Castelculier to discover the scenovision of Villascopia. “Moor the boat

by La Poule à vélo, in Saint-Jean-de-Thurac ”, suggests Vincent. “This old lock keeper house serves local dishes using local ingredients, including the famous stuffed chicken.”

The wilderness of the Baïse river

© Fluvial Terres du Sud / CRTA

Do you still have some time? The Buzet-surBaïse base is also the starting point for a 43 kilometre course down the Baïse, a tributary of the Garonne which twists and turns through the wilderness. “It is more difficult to navigate, there is no towing track and you can only moor the boat in specific ports shown on the river map”, explains Nicole Fabre.

one of the highlights of your cruise on the Canal de Garonne: crossing the Agen aqueduct, the second longest in France at 580 meters in length. Its 23 arches span the Garonne with 20 metre openings.

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Your cruise on the Baïse leads you to the foot of the Barbaste fortified mill, located on an old Roman road.

GETTING AWAy USeFUL INFORMATION: Places to go along the canal Gourmet stops

© Béguerie Alain / CRTA

n La Chope et le Pichet Maison éclusière 42 – Lieu-dit St-Christophe 47400 Villeton. - Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 83 13 49. www.lachope-et-lepichet.fr n Le Bout de la Côte Halte nautique – 47400 Lagruère.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 20 95 47. http://leboutdelacote.free.fr/ n La Poule à vélo Maison éclusière 33 – Lieu-dit St-Christophe 47270 Saint-Jean-de-Thurac.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 68 41 17. www.lapouleavelo.fr

After a stop at the cellar of the Buzet wine-makers to try a few vintages from this local appellation, take in the charms of the Albret country: Barbaste and its fortified mill, Nérac and its museumchâteau, homeland of Henry IV, and Moncrabeau, “capital of liars”. In Vianne, a superb fortified village from the 13th century be sure to visit the arts craftsmen and walk

round the night market, which is always bustling. Now you are back on the terrace of your barge, your head full of memories of relaxation, discove ry and various emotions.

And you will have already made a decision: next year, you will once again be the captain of the ship to discover the wonderful Lot valley, a 65 kilometres course between Aiguillon and Penne d’Agenais.

Rental companies for boats with no license n www.canauxdumidi.com n www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr

© Photo Pont du canal à Agen - CDT 47

No experience is necessary to steer a boat which doesn’t require a license. Upon your arrival, a technician will show you how the equipment works, as well as the engine and steering station. After explaining all this, you’ll move on to a practical steering lesson. Controlling the speed of the boat is child’s play: forward or reverse. you will also be taught all manoeuvring details such as mooring as well as how to pass locks. Finally, you’ll receive your “amateur pass”, a provisional driving license, valid for the entire duration of your trip.

© Fluvial Terres du Sud / CRTA

Steering a habitable boat is easy!

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ESCAPe On the banks of the Dordogne, an exceptional amount of France’s most beautiful villages invite you to discover wonderful châteaux, walk round lovely fortified villages and relax in luxury gardens. Also, take the time to travel up the river Espérance or take gourmet breaks in the country of foie gras, cabecou and nuts…

A unique holiday iN cHarMiNg villages Go BACk In TIMe in Belvès Located on top of a rocky overhang which overlooks the Nauze, the medieval town with seven bell towers has miraculously kept the magnificent traces of its built heritage. At the gourmet market overlooked by the 11th century belfry, the stands are full of ducks, geese, mushrooms, nuts and other Perigord products.

Next, tour the troglodytic habitations, several caves which were transformed and inhabited between the 13th and 18th century.

Then, head up the Nauze to learn about textile techniques from yesteryear and today, in the Belvès spinning mill, a centre where wool is worked, located in an old medieval mill which is testimony to Perigord’s industrial heritage. n www.tourisme-belves.com

ADMIRe DoRDoGne in Beynac-et-Cazenac From the old port on the right bank of the Dordogne to the medieval castle, walk up the steep streets and the stone staircases worn by time, to reach the feudal fortress of Beynac, built in the 12th century by Maynard de Beynac. Built on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Dordogne, the Beynac keep was an ideal observation point to see across the entire valley. From this defensive stronghold of this first building to the 17th century Renaissance staircase, passing through the 15th century State

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room, experience history on the trail of Richard Lionheart and Simon de Montfort. What would you say to tasting a duck confit with salardaise potatoes to end your tour? n www.perigordnoir.com

PICTuRe YouRSeLF AS A knIGhT in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle Overlooking the Dordogne and Céou valleys with a splendid view, the village of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle is known for its two châteaux, the château des Milandes, once the property of Joséphine Baker, and the fortified castle which has been magnificently restored, and now houses the War in the Middle Typical houses in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle.

© oT de Castelnaud la chapelle

© oT du pays de Belves

A paved alley in Beynac-et-Cazenac.

© Reiz Laurent / CRTA

one of Belvès’ seven bell towers.

The medieval city of Limeuil.

ESCAPe Ages museum. Learn about this medieval fortress by taking a dramatized tour, while your kids put on their armour and take part in a weapon yielding demonstration (during the school holidays). Next, take a stroll through the steep streets, admiring the village’s houses, so typical of Perigord, and then see how nut oil is made at the Ecomusée de la Noix. n www.tourisme-ceou.com

DISCoVeR DoMMe’S MARVeLS in Domme

© Reiz Laurent / CRTA

Within 10 kilometres of Sarlat, the fortified village of Domme has a hidden treasure beneath the central market place made of beautiful golden stone: the largest cave in “Black” Perigord. Descend into the earth’s bowels and discover a marvellous world of colonnades, stalactites and stalagmites.

The Domme panoramic viewpoint.

© oT de Domme

BeCoMe An ARTS CRAFTSMAn in Limeuil At the confluence of the Dordogne and the Vézère, the medieval town of Limeuil unveils its two faces: at the level of the river, the Place du Port, a 19th century inland water shipping centre, and the high village, that you can see thanks to the interpretive trail and the heritage walk which will take you through the sloped streets: don’t miss the Saint-Martin chapel – one of Perigord’s most beautiful Romanesque churches – then head to the Panoramic Gardens of Limeuil with themed areas with plenty of different surprises. There, after taking a stroll in the themed gardens (garden of colours, garden of witches, water garden,…) take part in workshops that will introduce you to local know-how: you’ll know all there is to know about basketry, weaving and natural dying.

Going back up in a panoramic lift provides one of the best view points of the Dordogne valley, with the villages of La Roque-Gageac and Beynac-et-Cazenac in the distance. Do not leave without having visited the Porte des Tours, where the Templar prisoners carved drawings, a testimony of their faith. n www.ot-domme.com

BoARD A BARGe in La Roque-Gageac

n www.limeuil-en-perigord.com

In the 19th century, the famous barges that were used to carry merchandise filled the Dordogne river. Today, they are the ideal way to admire the houses made of yellow stone with lauze roofs that are warmed at the foot of the cliff exposed to the south. Admire the church’s tower-wall, then the exotic garden which, with its banana trees, succulents and pink laurel trees, transports you to the Mediterranean. Looking for the best view of La Roque-Gageac? Take a ride in a hot air balloon or head towards the hanging gardens of Marqueyssac, to the Dordogne panoramic view point which is 130 metres above the river, providing an exceptional view of the valley.

More of “France’s most beautiful villages” in Dordogne

© Reiz Laurent / CRTA

n www.sarlat-tourisme.com

View of La Roque-Gageac’s stone houses.

In addition to the six “most beautiful villages in France” in the Dordogne valley, the department has another four villages that carry the famous label. In “Green” Perigord, the houses with brown tile roofs in Saint-Jean-de-Côle are built around a medieval bridge and a Roman-Byzantine style priory. Each year in May, the village tries to look its best for the Floralies.

Just a few steps from Lascaux, in the Vézère valley, Saint-Amand-de-Coly houses a 12th century abbey-church which is regarded as the most beautiful fortified church in the Perigord region. Carry on towards the Eyzies and discover SaintLéon-sur-Vézère, which annually hosts the “Black” Perigord music festival in its beautiful 12th century Romanesque church.

Further to the south in “Purple” Perigord, Monpazier is considered to be the jewel of Perigord’s fortified villages: its chess-board layout and architecture have remained essentially unchanged since the Middle Ages. n www.ville-saint-jean-de-cole.fr n www.saint-amand-de-coly.org/accueil.php n www.saint-leon-sur-vezere.fr n www.monpazier.fr

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UNIqUE AnD INEXPENSIVE Presbytery, “nest” in the trees or an old girl’s school: discover our selection of guesthouses combining comfort and unique style.

UNiqUe NigHts

From

© Rouge Bordeaux

65 € *

a night

IN AN OLD 18TH CeNTURY PReSBYTeRY

eCOLOGICAL LODGe IN A WINe-MAkING CHâTeAU

Pancakes with maple syrup, bacon and eggs or bagels and cream cheese… This is the American brunch served by your hosts Megan (American) and Julien (French) Martel in their Rouge Bordeaux guest house, located in Auros, between the Gironde Landes and Sauternes. In this old and authentic Gironde presbytery from the end of the 18th century, relax by the pool and practice your French!

© Château haut Garrigue

n Ohana Lodge – 56, rue des Hortensias – 40660 Moliets-et-Maa. Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 43 21 25 www.ohanalodge.com

© La vieille école

n Château Haut Garrigue – Sean et Caro Feely 24240 Saussignac. Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 07 86 26. www.hautgarrigue.com

BeTWeeN THe SAND DUNeS AND GOLF COURSe IN MOLIeTS

Go back to school in Bourgougnague, a small village in the country of fortified villages, close to Miramont-de-Guyenne.

You will indeed be staying in the old catholic girl’s school, built in 1872, which has 3 large rooms decorated with designer furniture, and a chapel with magnificent stained glass windows, where your hosts Fred and Rens Olthoff give dancing, painting or music lessons. Who ever said you can’t study while on holiday?

Decorated with shades of navy, the guest rooms at Lodge Ohana are ideally located

© ohana Lodge

n La Vieille Ecole – Le Rigaude – 47410 Bourgougnague.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 64 60 35. - www.lavieilleecole.eu

From

78 € *

a night

© Les nids du Béarn

From

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PeRCHeD IN A “NeST” IN THe BéARN AReA

Providing an unbeatable view of the Saussignac valley and the vines of the château Haut Garrigue, the Wine Lodge is built in an ecological way, with old stone, as well as natural wood and materials. After spending a night in the comfortably furnished guest house, be sure to attend one of the tastings organized by the château Haut Garrigue, whose activities were recognized in 2012 by Best of Wine Tourism.

IN AN OLD GIRLS’ SCHOOL

a night

to enjoy the open-air activities in the seaside resort of Moliets-et-Maa, just a kilometre from the beach for surfing, and only 400 metres from the clubhouse of the Moliets International Golf Course. Upon returning to the lodge m o with its combination of Basque and Landes r F architecture, make yourself comfortable by * the pool and dream of your next sporting achievements… a night

98 €

n Rouge Bordeaux - 3 rue Tauzia – 33124 Auros.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 25 10 38. http://rougebordeauxfr.wordpress.com

65 € *

for less than 100 euros

From

96 € *

a night

In the Loubieng woods between Orthez and Navarrenx, some strange-looking spheres are perched in the trees. They are actually real rooms, easy to get to thanks to the nets extended between the trees from the ground and equipped with a comfortable mattress and a bed cover made to measure. After waking up to the sound of the birds singing, climb down from your “nest” and meet the inhabitants of the forest, namely squirrels and other animals. n Les Nids du Béarn – 1716 chemin de Hourcloum – 64300 Loubieng. Tél. : +33 (0)5 64 11 02 26 ou +33 (0)6 75 00 54 65. www.lesnidsdubearn.com

* indicative prices 2013

Morris Robert, ‘‘Steam’’, 1995 - ©F. Delpech

URbAN TOURISM

The contemporary works of art are particularly well showcased in the nave of the CAPC in Bordeaux.

The museums will introduce you

to the towns in Aquitaine The largest towns in Aquitaine all have a museum of which they are particularly proud. Going to the museums is also a good way to learn more about these towns. Bordeaux is resolutely turned towards 2030, Bayonne is proud of its Basque traditions, Pau is elegant in the footsteps of Henry IV, and Périgueux is a gourmet Gallo-Roman town.

BORDeAUx AND CONTeMPORARY ART Begin your tour of 21st century Bordeaux at the Centre d’arts plastiques contemporains (CAPC), which is located in the Lainé warehouse, which allowed the storage of colonial commodities in the 19th century. Around the spectacular central nave, you’ll find the exhibit galleries and June: Wine Fair and River Fair the contemporary architecture centre of Arc en rêve. Be sure to have lunch at the Café Andrée These two biennial events take place in turn at the start of the summer. On the banks of the Garonne, thousands of Putman, on the terrace-roof of the CAPC. people gather to either taste wine, or to admire boats and From the Chartrons, head towards another flourishing district, the Bassins à flots. The take part in nautical activities. n www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com Fonds régional d’art contemporain (Frac), which is celebrating its 30th anniversary in 2013, and www.bordeauxfetelefleuve.com will welcome you in Hangar G2, a building from the 30’s made of concrete. Then use the September: Agora newly-inaugurated Chaban-Delmas bridge to get to the botanical garden designed by the The next architecture, town planning and design biennial landscape architect Catherine Mosbach. Back on the left bank, the world’s largest water mirror will take place in 2014. n www.bordeaux2030.fr/bordeaux-agora is a great place for a fun or meditative break, opposite the Port de la Lune, which is listed on November: Novart Unesco’s World Heritage list.

Dedicated to creation, invention and new artistic And if you fancy staying in a modern hotel, stay at the Boutique Hôtel, a stone’s throw from projects, the stage arts biennial brings together various the Grand Théâtre, which provides a contemporary décor with designer furniture by Flamant, contemporary expressions. contemporary expressions. n www.novartbordeaux.com Kartell or Eichholtz. Or, starting in the summer of 2013, stay at the Mama Shelter, the fifth hotel opened by Serge Trigano’s brand, USeFUL INFORMATION with rooms designed by Philippe Starck. Furthermore, both are Office de tourisme: ideally located if you want to shop at the chic boutiques of the 12 Cours du 30 Juillet – 33000 Bordeaux.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00 “Triangle d’Or” in Bordeaux. n www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

DIARY

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URbAN TOURISM

Listed in 1991, the Dagourette House has housed the Basque Museum of Bayonne since 1922.

BAYONNe

Before entering the Basque museum and the History of Bayonne, have a look at the facade of the Maison Dagourette, built at the end of the 16th century. Inside, you’ll find over 2000 objects and art pieces which are testimony to Basque identity.

You journey into Bayonne’s past, a “Town of Art and History” since 2012, continues in the preserved district. With ramparts protecting the old centre and a cathedral listed on Unesco’s World Heritage list, you will feel the Basque soul of the town.

Enjoy a cup of hot chocolate at Cazenave, beneath the hoops of rue Port-Neuf, treat yourself to some Basque linen or espadrilles in the commercial streets, taste a Koskera hake or some piperade ham at the Chistera restaurant, run by a family of pelotaris and rugby players for 53 years.

Next, cross the Nive to attend a Basque pelote game in the heart of Petit-Bayonne, at the trinquet Saint-André, the oldest in France.

At the foot of the citadel built by Vauban, have lunch at the Auberge du Cheval Blanc, and old coaching inn (with one Michelin star) where Jean-Claude Telléchéa serves dishes made with local ingredients, at fair prices.

Need to relax? Six kilometres from the town centre, let yourself be pampered at the Makila spa, run by the Lièvremont brothers.

For accommodation, choose between La Villa hotel, a charming residence with Basque architecture in the upper part of Bayonne (and the only 4-star hotel in the town), or Le Poteau Rose guest house, an atypical place decorated with furniture by well-known designers and paintings.

© oT Bayonne – Tuvemafoto.com

AND THe BASQUe TRADITION

DIARY March: The Bayonne Ham Fair On Easter weekend each year, since the 15th century, the ham fair unites fans of the famous Bayonne speciality. This event represents a great traditional festival and offers the finest hams, pork products and traditional cooked meats, which are available in the market place. n www.bayonne-tourisme.com

March: encounters at the Docks Organised by the “art et éssai” cinemas in Bayonne, this documentary film festival offers concerts, exhibits and encounters that will make you see the world in a different light. n http://atalante-cinema.org

October: Dantza Hirian From San Sebastian to Bayonne, the Dantza Hirian urban dance festival fills the streets of the Basque Eurocity, to introduce people from all walks of life to contemporary dancing. people contemporary dancing. n www.dantzahirian.com

USeFUL INFORMATION Office de tourisme: place des Basques – 64100 Bayonne.

Tél. : +33 (0)820 42 64 64 n www.bayonne-tourisme.com

From Greco to Rubens or from Morisot to Lhote, admire the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Pau’s masterpieces.

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© Monnuage Shoomo France / CRTA

PAU, THe TOWN OF Originally a fortress for the viscounts of Béarn, then the fortified castle of Gaston Febus, Pau castle is above all the birth residence of Henry IV, King of France and Navarre. Today, the palace which overlooks the gorge of Pau has become an entire museum about “good King Henry” and the famous turtle shell that also served as his cradle. Listed as a National Museum, it presents a rich decorative collection as well as one of the most impressive tapestry collections in Europe. A stone’s throw from the castle, walk around the picturesque streets of the medieval and Renaissance town, and stop for some food at Ze Bistrot owned by Thierry Lassala, student of Guérard and Arrambide.

After some shopping in the streets around the historic centre, stroll along boulevard des Pyrenees, a superb promenade shaded by banana and palm

© Monnuage Shoomo France / CRTA

URbAN TOURISM

From the mezzanines that house the collections, there is a spectacular view across the archaeological remains of Vesunna.

DIARY early August: Mimos festival The largest festival of mimes and movement arts in Europe, Mimos presents wonderful spectacles performed in the streets, in the theatres or under the tent set up near the cathedral.

Vesunna, n www.mimos.fr site-musée àPérigueux.

Late August: Sinfonia festival Dedicated to baroque music, Sinfonia invites you to listen to concerts and spectacles in places with incredible acoustics, such as the Saint-Etienne de la Cité church in Périgueux or Chancelade abbey.

November: the international gourmet book fair Through a selection of spectacles, exhibits and debates, this fair is testimony to the importance of cuisine and art de vivre in French publishing. n www.livre-gourmand.com

USeFUL INFORMATION Office de tourisme: 26 place Francheville – 24000 Périgueux.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 53 10 63 n www.tourisme-perigueux.fr

PéRIGUeUx, A GALLO-ROMAN TOWN In the heart of the ancient town of Périgueux, the relics of a rich Gallo-Roman residence were highlighted in Jean Nouvel’s architecture. The result is Vesunna, a museum that takes you back to the time of the Roman Empire. From the museum’s mezzanines, a spectacular view of the relics of the “Domus de Vésone” is before you.

On foot, head to the medieval and Renaissance town, one of the largest preserved areas in France which is unique thanks to the half-timbered houses and its rich residences. From November to March, place Saint-Louis welcomes the foie gras and truffle market. Just a stone’s throw from the covered market place, taste the famous Périgueux pâté with a truffle crust, at Pierrot Gourmet, a caterer and restaurant which serves gourmet dishes from 11am to 6pm non-stop.

Spend the night at Castel Peyssard, a hotel with a spa and bistrot, opened at the end of 2011.

Do you prefer the style of the Belle Epoque? Then try the Jardin d’Inès guest house, a stone’s throw from Saint-Front cathedral, built on the route to Santiago de Compostella and listed as a World Heritage monument. To admire its silhouette which outlines a Greek cross topped with Byzantine-style domes, cross the Isle and enjoy a Perigord-style foie gras and escargot soufflé, while sat on the terrace of the Berges de l’Isle. After working off the food with a stroll along the via verde of the banks of the Isle, go back to the Tourism Office through the commercial streets and visit the Tour Mataguerre: from the path, you can see all of Périgueux.

kING HeNRY IV trees, which provides a unique panoramic view of the Pyrenees mountain tops. Head to the Palais Beaumont, which houses an exhibit centre, a casino, an auditorium and a restaurant with a terrace.

Nearby, you have to stop at the Fine Arts Museum, where you’ll find works by Degas, Rubens, Le Greco...

Cross the Beaumont park and drop off your bags at the hotel with the same name, a lovely contemporary establishment with a spa. Do you prefer historical places? Then choose the Villa Navarre hotel, which is testimony to the time when English aristocrats spent their holidays in Pau. Other references to this prestigious past include Pau-Billère golf club, the oldest club in Europe or the Pau Gelos national stud farm, created in 1808, upon the request of Napoleon 1st and which today still houses around a hundred stallions.

USeFUL INFORMATION

DIARY

Office de tourisme: Place Royale – 64000 Pau. Tél. : +33(0)5 59 27 27 08 n www.pau-pyrenees.com

May: Historical Grand Prix in Pau This motorcar grand prix is the only one to take place in the town-centre. To mark this event, exhibits of old cars are organised. n www.grandprixdepau.com

August: Hestiv’Oc festival Since 2005, music and cultures from the south are brought together each year in Pau. For four days, cinema, circus, dancing, street art and traditional sports fill the town. n www.hestivoc.com

December: Pau international film festival The Pau film festival is unique because of its commitment to one artistic stream, by presenting unique films with no distributor, as well as regional productions. n www.lemelies.net/festival

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Local products

SHOPPINg

aNd tHe people wHo Make tHeM

1.

1. MOULIN DE LARROqUE PAPER MILL In Couze

I t was Georges Duchêne who put life back into this authentic 13th century mill in 1972, built on the Couze, just 20 minutes from Bergerac. Since then, Patrick Daguenel, the masterstationer, has taken over: “the entire paper-making process is done by hand, with the help of Hollander beaters which shred the cotton rags, linen or hemp”. Listed as a live heritage company, the Larroque paper mill’s clients include Bordeaux fine wine-makers, fashion houses and the Louvre Museum.

Moulin de Larroque : 24150 Couze.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 61 01 75 www.moulindelarroque.com

2.

3. GIANNA ET MOI, LADIeS’ FAShIon In BoRDeAux LADI

2. LAFFARGUE, LeATheR CRAFTSMAn In SAInT-JeAn-De-Luz Founded in 1890 by Joseph Daniel Laffargue, the son of a saddler and companion, maison Lafargue has a reputation for its leather articles made with Basque studded leather. “Everything is made in our workshop, behind our boutique”, explains Marie-Sylvie Laffargue, who runs the family company with her brother Jean-Michel. ”The skins of French origin arrive tanned in different colours, then specialized craftsmen make them into bags, belts or wallets.” The brand’s bestseller? “Our studded bucket bag”.

© Gerard Vallet

© laffargue

”Cheerful, ”Cheerful, fun, colourful but always elegant”. This is how Marie-Françoise Boyancier, co-founder of Gianna et Moi Marie-Françoise with Stéphane Peronnaud, describes the fashion label with launched in Bordeaux in 1996. The two designers work launched mostly on materials: “we are inspired by the material that mostly is where the clothing is born”, says Marie-Françoise while is also noting: “the material must be able to fit everyone, also whether whether small, tall, skinny or plump”. The best-seller at Gianna Gianna & Moi? The skirts, dresses and jumpers.

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4.

3.

4. ARTIGA, In MAGeSCq In The LAnDeS ”All ”All our collections are Made by us, which recently allowed Artiga Artiga to obtain the “Origine France Garantie” label, Quitterie Quitterie Delfour proudly announced, having taken over the brand which specializes in Basque cloth and accessories brand for the home. “Drawings of the finished products are done for at the head office of Magescq by our designers”, explains at the General Manager. “Then, our historic weaver, located in the the Pyrenees-Atlantiques, weaves the cloth that is used for the manufacturing in our sewing workshop”. manufacturing

© Artiga

Laffargue : 25 rue Gambetta 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 26 11 38 www.laffargue-maroquinerie.fr

Gianna et Moi : 42 rue Sainte-Colombe 33000 Bordeaux. Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 94 57 90. www.giannaetmoi.com

5.

Artiga : 5 rue Brémontier – 40140 Magescq.

Tél. : +33 (0) 5 58 47 62 39. www.artiga.fr

5. bASkETRY wORkSHOP In AnThé Just Just 13 kilometres to the east of Penne-d’Agenais, Christian Boncour welcomes you to his basketry workshop.

“Above all, I am a farmer”, is how he likes to introduce himself. Because growing a wicker plant requires a lot of of work, and that’s without harvesting, sorting and hulling… The result is fine basketry, called “luxury”, which he then exports to crafts boutiques in Paris, Germany, and as far away as San Francisco! Do you want to create your your own basket? Learn how to work the wicker during one of the monthly workshops led by this passionate wicker wicker grower.

© Ch. Boncour

24

Atelier de vannerie d’osier - 47370 Anthé.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 40 72 14. - www.cc-dufumelois.com

© moulin de Larroque

In towns like in the countryside, they make high quality products, with a reputation that goes well beyond their borders.

Meet these creators in the intimate setting of their workshops and leave Aquitaine with some very nice souvenirs.

MADELEINES WITH AqUITAINE HONEy

© AAPrA – C.Girardot

BAyONNE CHOCOLATE CAkE WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER

© AAPrA – F.Brunet

regioNal flavours

regioNal flavours

regioNal flavours

© AAPrA – F.Brunet

regioNal flavours

PIPERADE WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER AND BAyONNE HAM

© AAPrA – C.Girardot

AqUITAINE HAMBURgER WITH APPLES AND DUCk FOIE gRAS

PIPERADE WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER AND BAyONNE HAM

AqUITAINE HAMBURgER WITH APPLES AND DUCk FOIE gRAS

Recipe by Christophe Girardot, former Chef at La Table de Montesquieu (1 Michelin star), former student of Michel Guérard.

Recipe by Christophe Girardot, former Chef at La Table de Montesquieu (1 Michelin star), former student of Michel Guérard.

Ingredients serves 6:

Ingredients serves 6:

• 500 g of onions • 500 g of green chili peppers • 4 garlic cloves • 2 kg of tomatoes

Preparation: 1. Chop up a small amount of ham fat and melt it in a large saucepan, then add the chopped onions and the seeded green chili peppers, cut lengthwise into quarters.

• a bouquet garni (thyme, laurel, parsley, leek, celery)

• 100 g of new onions

2. Cook for 5 minutes without browning.

• 50 g of fresh spinach

3. Add the crushed garlic cloves, a few pieces of ham and a bouquet garni.

• 400 g of raw southwest foie gras

• 500 g of Bayonne ham Cook slowly for a further 10 minutes.

• Espelette Pepper 4. Add 2 kg of peeled and seeded tomatoes.

• salt, pepper, sugar

• 6 Limousin apples

Add salt, pepper and a little sugar to reduce bitterness.

5. Add two pinches of Espelette pepper and cook on high heat, stirring regularly until all the tomato juice has evaporated.

6. Serve hot or cold with a thin slice of fried Bayonne ham.

• 2 tablespoons of golden sesame seeds • 50 g butter • Fleur de sel from Salies-de-Béarn • Pepper from a mill • 2 dl of veal juice • 1/2 l of Bordeaux wine • 100 g sugar

saveUrs

régionales

Find the products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaqui.fr www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr

BAyONNE CHOCOLATE CAkE WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER Recipe by Vincent Poussard, Chef at the Quai des Saveurs cooking school in Bordeaux.

Ingredients serves 4:

• 60 g of flour • 100 g of caster sugar • 60 g of butter • 3 eggs

Preparation: 1. Line the moulds with butter and flour then place in the fridge.

2. Melt the butter in a saucepan and place the chocolate in a bain-marie.

3. Separate the egg whites and whisk them until they form peaks.

• 150 g of dark Bayonne Making the cake: chocolate • a pinch of Espelette pepper

1. Mix egg yolks and sugar.

2. Add the melted butter until the mixture is smooth.

3. Add the melted chocolate and the peaked egg whites: mix until smooth.

4. Add the flour and Espelette pepper all at once.

5. Place in the moulds and bake in the oven for 10 minutes at 150° C. 6. Remove from the moulds while still hot and place on a plate. The cake will be warm, but runny inside.

saveUrs

régionales

Preparation: 1. In a saucepan, evaporate the Bordeaux wine with a dash of sugar to end up with roughly 1 dl of liquid.

2. Add the veal juice and allow it to reduce by half (the sauce must be thick).

3. Slice the apples in half lengthwise, remove the core then place these large slices on a baking dish covered with melted butter, a dash of sugar, salt and pepper.

4. Cook in a hot oven (200°C) for around 6 minutes.

Wash the spinach, then melt it in a knob of butter, add salt and pepper.

5. Chop the new onions as finely as possible, then cook them for 3 to 4 minutes in butter and season.

6. Divide the foie gras into escalopes of just over a centimetre in size, flour all the sides and then brown them in a very hot non-stick pan.

7. Create a hamburger by surrounding the foie gras escalope with roasted apples, candied onions and fresh spinach. Top with the hot sauce and sprinkle a few sesame seeds on top.

Find the products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr www.gastronomie.aquitaqui.fr

MADELEINES WITH AqUITAINE HONEy Recipe by Vincent Poussard, Chef at the Quai des Saveurs cooking school in Bordeaux.

Ingredients serves 4:

• 200 g butter • 130 g sugar • 200 g flour

Preparation: 1. Melt 200 g of butter in a bain-marie with the honey in a recipient then cool.

2. Beat 3 whole eggs with 130 g of fine sugar and 6 cl of milk.

• 1 sachet of baking powder

3. Add the sifted flour and the sachet of baking powder, then pour in the cooled butter and mix well.

• 30 g of Aquitaine honey

4. Leave the mixture in the fridge for 3 hours.

• 3 eggs • 6 ml milk

5. Fill the madeleine moulds (roughly 23 madeleines).

6. Place in the oven for 3 minutes at 210° C and 15 minutes at 190° C. Dax madeleines Madeleines are a traditional speciality from Dax, in the Landes. Since 1906, the company Cazelle has made madeleines according to its secret production procedure.

Chef’s tips you can finish by placing a quenelle of whipped cream on top, and sprinkling some Espelette pepper.

saveUrs

régionales

Find the products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaqui.fr www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr

Find the products and recipes from the Aquitaine region at www.gastronomie.aquitaqui.fr www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr

GETAWAyS

Spend the day with an oyster farmer in the Bay of Arcachon.

Sharing the professions of Aquitaine

© SIBA - B.RUIZ

iN tHe sHoes of…

Have you ever dreamt of being a sheep farmer, oyster farmer, chef or winemaker? In Aquitaine, your dream can come true. For a day or a weekend, live the lives of professionals, in a way that is miles away from clichés and postcards.

With an oyster farmer in the Bay of Arcachon On holiday in the Bay of Arcachon? At the turn of the tide, do something a little different and follow an oyster farmer to discover his profession. Three hours before low tide, the meeting point is at the port in front of your host’s cabin who will prepare the barge with a flat bottom for growing and gathering oysters.

“We can take four or five people depending on the size of the boat”, says Olivier Laban, President of the Regional Shellfish farming Committee. “The objective is to have them experience what we do all year, living our lives”.

On average, it takes an hour to get to the oyster farms. “We make the most of this time to explain our profession, and to make the passengers aware of how fragile the environment in which we work really is”. Then, the programme changes every day.

Depending on the day, the oyster farmer will place spat collectors, turn over oyster bags, gather…

“People want to get away from the usual tourism trip, and when they return to port, they are aware of the necessity to protect the quality of our water for the oysters to develop”, says Olivier Laban. These moments of sharing always end in the same way, by eating some freshly collected oysters. “On the boat the experience is even better, it is like eating cherries while in a cherry tree”. n Contact : offices du tourisme du Bassin d’Arcachon www.arcachon.com and www.bassin-arcachon.com

27

GETAWAyS

With a shepherd in the Pyrenees What do sheep dogs actually do? How do you locate the herd in the mountain pastures? Jean-Pierre Pommies, a shepherd in the Béarn Piedmont as well as a mountain guide, has been welcoming tourists for ten years, and answers their questions with great enthusiasm. In July and August, he will offer to take you on one of his day trips to see herds of cows and sheep. “It’s a family hike, and is suitable for kids as young as 5”, he explains. “We leave at 10am with two donkeys, on which the kids can ride. At noon, we stop by a lake for a picnic to enjoy some farm products such as pork, cheese, wine and bread from the local village baker”. The day is dedicated to

discovering pastoral life in the P yrenees, with a demonstration of the work of a sheep dog and how the herd is moved towards the salt stones”. “For those who wish, they can pick up a stick and take part, they become players and are usually surprised at the contact that they have with the animals”.And to dive even deeper into the life of a shepherd, Jean-Pierre and his wife Josie offer you the possibility to live with them for three days, for the time it takes for a migration. n Contact : Jean-Pierre Pommies 72, route de Saint-Vincent 64800 Coarraze Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 13 96 25 ou 06 87 66 29 03 http://transhumance.net

With a Chef in the Perigord region The small village of Sorges in the Perigord, between Périgueux and Thiviers, as well as the inn of the same name, are famous for their truffles. Pierre Corre, the Chef, invites you to share his passion for the “black gold of Perigord” by taking a course.

The truffle weekend plan begins on Friday evening with an aperitif and dinner at the restaurant. Then, on Saturday morning, follow Pierre Corre and observe his daily life as a chef. You’ll go with him to the foie gras market in Périgueux or Thiviers, and he’ll show you how to choose tr uff les.

“You have to smell them, and recognise the ones that give off the strongest scent”, he explains , while pressing his nose up against a

28

basket full of “melanosporums”. When you get back to Sorges, visit the Ecomusée de la Truffe before heading to the kitchen with the Chef. In the afternoon, you’ll have fun in the quick-paced environment. Pierre Corre will explain each recipe that you will prepare in front of him. Magret à la royale, omelette with truffles, scrambled eggs with truffles, celery cappuccino with truffles, and even an île flottante with truffles… You’d never have imagined being able to prepare this many dishes in such a short period of time! The chef ’s enthusiasm is contagious, and you’ll get your reward in the evening when you enjoy his famous special truffle meal. You’ll need a good night’s sleep before starting the second day with a visit to the truffle market in Sorges with the Chef, who knows all of the region’s truffle farmers. Next, he’ll take you to see a truffle farm with a specialist who will show you how a dog – or pig – finds the truffles at the foot of the trees. You’ll leave with a recipe book and perhaps even a few truffles, to blow away the next people you host for dinner! n Contact : Auberge de la Truffe 24420 Sorges.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 05 02 05 www.auberge-de-la-truffe.com

GETAWAyS

With a wine-maker in the Buzet vineyard Just three kilometres from the fortified village of Damazan and the canal which runs alongside the Garonne, Jacques Rejalot will welcome you at his Pichon property in SaintLéon, in AOC Côtes-de-Buzet.

Depending on the season and the work at hand, he’ll explain the key phases in cultivating vines before putting you to work: in March you’ll learn how to trim, in May you’ll learn about suckering, and in September, the big event, the harvest: “our visitors often wish to

With a sea fisherman in the Landes

harvest by hand, which is exactly how we do it in our 3 hectares of vines”, says Jacques Rejalot, who also explains the organic procedure in place at the vineyard. “I implemented a teaching programme centred on organic wine-making and bio-dynamics, because consumers are interested in this form of cultivating”.Kids are not forgotten, they get involved throughout the day, with the exception, of course, of the tasting.

“But they can take part in sensory discovery workshops using aromatic plants, the orchard and its in-season fruits”, mentions Jacques Rejalot, who is also an oenologist, and can thus introduce you to wine tasting in his wine warehouse. After a “hard” day spent amongst the vines, take a break in the property ’s Bacchus rooms, a lovely 19th century house (3 Clévacances keys). n Contact : Jacques Rejalot Pichon – 47160 Saint-Léon.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 83 04 95.

The first condition to discover the life of a fisherman is to have the soul of a seaman!

“It will be a long day, and there’s no going back if you get sea-sick”, explains Sylvie Biarrotte, the captain’s wife.

The second constraint is to be willing to get up at the same time as the Toune’s crew, which is anywhere between 4am and 6am, depending on the tide. It will still be dark when the head fisherman welcomes you on board.

“There are four fisherman on board, so we only have room for two extra passengers”, says Sylvie. Depending on the weather conditions and the season – the Toune heads out all year-round – you need to be wearing wellington boots, a jumper and rain clothes, and bring a sandwich. Enjoy the sunrise on the horizon, and watch the fishermen get busy on the boat. The smell of fish, the wind, the swell… while the tide lasts, you’ll discover what it’s like to be a fisherman. “It’s a good opportunity to meet tourists, who realise that our job is not so easy. It is also good to highlight our profession. People ask a lot of questions about fishing techniques and the fish that we catch”, says Jean-Pierre Biarrotte, who is proud to share his daily life with you. n Contact : bateau « le Toune » – Ponton B avenue du Président Georges Pompidou Port de Capbreton – 40130 Capbreton.

Tél. : +33 (0)6 85 21 34 34.

29

wELL-BEINg

take care of yoUrself oN tHe caMpsites Whether along the Atlantic coast or inland, in addition to being close to nature and providing a feeling of freedom, Aquitaine’s campsites also offer increasingly sophisticated facilities for your well-being. Spas, Jacuzzis, saunas and beauty treatment centres make them true “open-air hotels”.

© Sunelia camping la pointe du médoc

In the summer,

SPA at the pointe du Médoc Between the Verdon beach, which opens onto the Gironde estuary and the ocean beaches, the Sunêlia campsite at the Pointe du Médoc opened an Adriana Karembeu spa in 2012, in an area designed specifically for relaxation: with a hydromassage bath and relaxing treatment in the refined treatment rooms, enjoy the zen garden with plants, the Turkish bath or the outdoor Jacuzzi. n Sunêlia La Pointe du Médoc – Route de la pointe de Grave 33123 Le Verdon-sur-Mer. Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 73 39 99. www.camping-lapointedumedoc.com

BALneoTheRAPY

along the Gironde coast Located near two kilometres of beaches to the north of the Gironde coast, the CHM Monta naturist resort invites you to spend some time at its thermal baths, an area made completely of wood with a sauna, a Turkish bath and a large balneotherapy bath heated to 32°C. After a hot bath with essential oils, relax in the herbal tea room then choose from the many treatments offered: facial, mud wrap, scrub… n CHM Monta – 46 Avenue de l’Europe 33930 Vendays-Montalivet.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 73 73 73. www.chm-montalivet.com © Régis Duvignau

© SARL Domaine Laborde - Camping Fontaine du Roc

WELL-BEINg AREA RELAxINg MASSAgES in the land of fortified villages

At the edges of Périgord and the Agenais, the Laborde and Fontaine du Roc campsites are located 12 kilometres from one another, in a wooded area with oak and chestnut trees. Both offer a sauna, Jacuzzi and Turkish bath as well as the possibility to book a relaxing massage, which can be performed outdoors, in harmony with nature. So, how can you choose between these two places? You should know that Laborde is a naturist resort which also has an indoor subtropical pool heated to 28°C…

in the Landes

Ideally situated opposite Biscarrosse lake, La Rive campsite awaits you in the heart of the pine forest, 10 kilometres from the centre of Biscarrosse. Next to the swimming pools, experience the atmosphere of the well-being area. Let yourself be pampered in one of the treatment rooms or enjoy the sauna, the Turkish bath and the spa. n Camping resort & spa La Rive route de Bordeaux – 40600 Biscarrosse.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 78 12 33. www.larive.fr

30

© eSe Communication

n Domaine Laborde – Paulhiac – 47150 Monflanquin.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 63 14 88. www.domainelaborde.com n Camping Fontaine du Roc – « Les Moulaties » – Devillac – 47210 Villeréal.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 36 08 16. www.fontaineduroc.com

In the winter,

wELL-BEINg

let yoUrself be paMpered at tHe foot of tHe pyreNees After a long day on the ski slopes, a hike in snowshoes or a stroll in the forest, what could be better than a dip in a pool filled in thermal water followed by a relaxing massage? From Béarn to the foot of the pistes, there are plenty of places to see and go to.

AFTeR-SkI TReATMenT in the ossau valley

At the foot of the Gourette and Artouste ski resorts, the Valvital thermal baths at Eaux Bonnes welcome you in a unique setting with Second Empire architecture. After a long day on the pistes, relax in the pool which is bathed in light and enjoy the benefits of the special treatment for sports enthusiasts, including a jet shower, a facial with essential oils as well as a “heavy legs treatment”, perfect for preparing for your next achievements on the slopes. © Alain Baschenis

n Thermes Valvital – 64440 Eaux-Bonnes.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 05 34 02. www.valvital.fr

ReLAxInG In A GueST RooM in the Béarn region © Domaine de Lespoune

A beautiful 18th century mansion just a few kilometres from Navarrenx, Domaine Lespoune is a real haven of peace. Inside, a relaxation room has been created for massages given by professionals (with prior booking necessary). You also have access to the sauna to help release the tension from the day.

Outside, spend a relaxing time in the spa in the park opposite the Navarrenx ramparts and the Pyrenees. n Domaine Lespoune – Yves et Nicole Everaert - 20, rue camblong – 64190 Castetnau-Camblong.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 66 24 14. - www.lespoune.fr

BAThS AnD TReATMenTS FRoM ARounD The WoRLD

SPA, BALneoTheRAPY AnD FITneSS

in Pau and Laruns

© G. Bonnaud

n Les Bains de Secours – Chemin des bains – 64260 Sévignacq Meyracq. Tél. : +33 (0)6 29 34 21 98. www.bien-etre-en-pyrenees.com

in Salies-de-Béarn

© oT Salies de Béarn

At the borders of the Pyrenees National Park, the Bains de Secours offer peace and quiet in the setting of an old thermal establishment. Enjoy treatments combining ferruginous water and treatments from around the world (Ayurvedic, Thai, Hawaian). The “after-hiking” plan will seduce skiers and hikers who will end up relaxing in the Turkish bath or bathing in an old marble bath.

Located in a listed national monument, the thermal spa at Salies-de-Béarn will allow you to enjoy the benefits of thermal water with ten times more salt than sea water, and 26 micro-nutrients.

Discover the relaxing and stimulating virtues of this water at Bains de la Mude, a fun thermal facility with a Turkish bath, sauna, Californian bath and two pools for water aerobics and water biking. n Thermes de Salies-de-Béarn – Cours du Jardin Public – 64270 Salies-de-Béarn.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 38 10 11. www.thermes-de-salies.com

31

FITNESS

Walking through Sauterne’s vineyards, surfing in the best spots along the Landes beaches, visiting the Perigord region’s fortified villages on horse-back… In Aquitaine, practice your favourite sport in varied and picturesque landscapes.

Sports get-aways iN

aqUitaiNe

Surfing

along the Landes coast

Béarn and the Basque country,

land of golf

It is in the Pyrenees-Atlantiques that you will find the continent’s oldest golf courses. About ten courses are at your disposal, it’s up to you to choose which one you prefer.

Rustic feel at the foot of the Pyrenees?

If you play at the Epherra golf course in Souraïde, then you’ll be staying at the Argi Eder hotel in Aïnhoa, one of the most beautiful villages in France.

Chic and exclusive? Head to Saint-Jeande-Luz to play the prestigious Chantaco golf course. At the foot of the Rhune, the greens that you walk across were once graced by Charlie Chaplin and the Prince of Wales! Stay in this historic atmosphere by staying at the Grand Hôtel Loreamar in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, which offers “Golf and Spa” holidays in a Belle Epoque setting.

La Gravière, Les Bourdaines, Le Santocha, La Piste, Casanova… To check the surfing conditions at these legendary spots along the coast, check the webcams set up all along the Silver Coast, between Biscarrosse to the north and Capbreton to the south. Stop off in Hossegor, the European surfing capital. This is where the French Surfing Federation has its headquarters in an ecological building which blends in to the dune.

Keep with the surfing spirit by staying at the Natural Surf Camp, sponsored by the Federation and located close to the Casernes beach spot in Seignosse.

There, Claire and Stéphane will give you lessons to try and imitate champions who visit each year for the “Quicksilver

Pro”, an event of the surfing world championships. n USEFUL INFORMATION: CDT des Landes – 4 avenue Aristide Briand 40000 Mont-de-Marsan.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 06 89 89. www.tourismelandes.com.

bicycle tourism in Duras country

Did you enjoy the via verde between Bordeaux and Sauveterre-de-Guyenne?

Well, don’t stop now! Prolong your itinerary in the Lot-et-Garonne via the Duras country: visit the medieval castle in Duras then have a picnic on the path for discovering the Maison des vins de Duras. Let yourself be guided towards the Garonne valley by the soft slopes scattered with vineyards and Ente prune orchards.

Stop off in the village of Gontaud-deNogaret to admire the market building, the

Close to hotels and shops in the city centre, le Phare golf course in Biarritz enjoys stunning views of the Atlantic ocean and La Rhune Mountain.

32

© Le Doaré

n USEFUL INFORMATION: CDT Béarn Pays Basque – Petite Caserne 2 allée des Platanes – 64100 Bayonne. www.tourisme64.com

castle, the church and the cloister. At Masd’Agenais, you’ll find another via verde, that of the canal de Garonne. Will you head towards Agen to the east, or Marmande to the west? Perhaps you should sleep on it, so stay at the Dormeur du Val guest house, located just a stone’s throw from Saint-Vincent Collegiate, which houses Rembrandt’s Crucifixion of Christ. n USEFUL INFORMATION: CDT du Lot-et-Garonne 271, rue de Péchabout – 47000 Agen.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 66 14 14. www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com

hours each day, with a horse-riding tourism guide. On the way you’ll cross the village of Beaumont-du-Périgord and its fortified church, the Saint-Avit-Sénieur abbey-church, listed on Unesco’s World Heritage list or the château de Montferrand-du-Périgord.

For logistics, everything is taken care of: a van will carry your equipment and personal belongings for each stage. Feeling exhausted after a day spent on your horse? Let yourself be pampered at the Coteau de Belpech, a guest house in Beaumont-du-Périgord, offering massages and a spa with a panoramic view of the Couze valley.

© Béguerie Alain / CRTA

© Smavlot / CRTA

© Le Doaré

FITNESS

house, which organizes strolls through the Sauternais vineyards. Begin the trail in Bommes, on the banks of the Ciron, a river without which the botrytis cinerea, a socalled “noble fungus” which is essential to Sauternes wine, could not exist. And then admire the splendid wine-making properties nearby, the château de Rayne-Vigneau, which proudly stands on a rounded hilltop, the famous château d’Yquem or château Raymond-Lafon, which won a mention by the 2012 Best of Wine Tourism in the “architecture, parks, and gardens” category.

Visit its remarkable gardens, with tropical plants, palm trees and rare plants, then end the day with a tasting – aperitif offered by your host at the Peyraguey Maison Rouge guest house, which regularly organizes oenology initiation courses.

n USEFUL INFORMATION: CDT de la Dordogne – 25 rue Wilson – 24000 Périgueux. Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 35 50 24. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr

Hike

through the prestigious Sauternais vineyards.

On the left bank of the Garonne, stay at the Peyraguey Maison Rouge guest

On horse-back

in the land of fortified villages

© OT Périgueux / CRTA

Between the Lot and Dordogne valleys, the Bride du Cazal horse-riding centre welcomes you just a kilometre from the fortified village of Monpazier, a jewel of medieval architecture and one of the most beautiful villages in France. For this fortified village circuit in “Purple” Perigord, you’ll ride for four to five

n USEFUL INFORMATION: Office de tourisme Sauternes & Graves – 11 allée Jean Jaurès – 33210 Langon.

Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 63 68 00. www.sauternais-graves-langon.com

33

qUIz

do yoU kNow Aquitaine ?

With the help of clues and photos, answer the questions of this quiz and discover, or re-discover the rich heritage, cuisine and history of Aquitaine.

What is a Béarnais christening?

Dipping the new-born’s lips in Jurançon wine then rubbing them with garlic. b Pouring Madiran wine on his forehead.

C Adding a drop of eau-de-vie to the holy water.

1

© MonNuage / CRTA

Index: in the eyes of gascons, wine should be used as an antiseptic after birth.

2 What certification does the Adour kiwi have?

An AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée).

An IgP (Indication géographique Protégée [Protected geographical Indication]).

C An IgP and the Label rouge.

A b

Index: the Adour kiwi combines superior quality and a strong regional identity.

4 How many representations of mammoths are present in the Rouffignac caves?

3 In the novel by eugène le Roy, where was Jacquou le Croquant locked up?

A 3.

Roughly 10.

Roughly 100.

b C

Index: Rouffignac cave is the largest decorated cave in the Perigord region.

A In the medieval fortress of Salignac-Eyvigues. b At Herm Castle.

C In the dungeon of Commarque Castle, in Eyzies. © Reiz Laurent / CRTA

© Thinkstock

© grotte de Rouffigac

A

5

Index: the Castle overlooks the Barade forest in “Black” Perigord.

The town of Agen has been organising a cultural and gourmet festival since 2005 called: Le grand Pruneau Show.

The Tomato Fiesta.

The Strawberries, Flowers and Wine Fair.

A

b A RT /C

C

te

Index: Agen gave its name to this Lot-et-garonne speciality.

it

6 What can you see on this photo?

A b C

A modern art museum.

The wine warehouse of a wine-making château.

A concert hall with incredible acoustics.

Index: this building is located near Saint-Emilion.

C

7

© SIBA - B.RUIZ

hB ri g

© photos Erick Saillet

©B loc

The Tillole is the same as: The galupe, a traditional boat with a flat bottom used to descend the Huchet river in the Landes. b The gabarre, a barge once used to carry merchandise along the Dordogne river.

The Pinasse, a long and thin boat, typical of the Bay of Arcachon.

A

Index: the Tillole can take you to Banc d’Arguin.

and underground warehouse at the château Cheval Blanc, first vintage listed as Saint-Emilion, were designed by the architect Christian de Portzamparc. 7C It is possible to travel around the Bay of Arcachon with an electric Pinasse, or Tillole, an ecological and silent craft. while the Strawberries, Flowers and Wine Fair is organized each year in Sainte-Bazeille, also in the Val de garonne. 6b The fermenting room kiwi to have both the Label Rouge / IgP certifications. 3b In the summer, enjoy a sound and light show at Herm Castle. 4C Listed on Unesco’s World Heritage list, Rouffignac cave has 226 representations, including 158 mammoths. 5A The Tomato Fiesta takes place in Marmande, 1A For gascons, garlic represented universal medicine, used for all contagions and as an antidote for poison. 2C The Adour kiwi is the only

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