Wizz 2014 / February-March

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WIZZ MAGAZINE

LVIV’S WEIRD AND WONDERFUL BARS

FEBRUARY-MARCH 2014

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CONTENTS

COVER ILLUSTRATION BY THOMAS BURDEN / PHOTO BY GETTY

Inside 52

CAMEL RACING Discover a world away from Dubai’s sparkling skyscrapers at its historic camel racetrack

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CONTENTS

36 LV I V An anti-Soviet hideout? A pub dedicated to gas lamps? We uncover Lviv’s weird bars

Editor Claire Martin Art Director Callum Lewis

45 WA R S AW Is Warsaw hipper than Paris when it comes to fashion? We send our writer to find out

Picture Editors Regina Wolek Julia Holmes

59 TA R G U M U R E S

Sub-editor Clive Morris

We’ve found 10 reasons why Târgu Mure,s is an unmissable city break destination

Production Karl Martins Publisher Brano Haar

64 R O M E The Eternal City doesn’t have to be infernally pricey! Follow our tips for Rome on the cheap

59

Advertising Sales Executives Joanna Kossowska Irina Bordea Anna Tereszkiewicz Bobby Bunev Oleksiy Korniychuk Svetlana Sosnina

45 64

Group Publishing Director Mark Duke Executive Creative Director Michael Keating Publishing Director Simon Leslie Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke

9 THE BUZZ 18 RON ARAD’S TEL AVIV 21 BLOGGER CHALLENGE 22 PETRA KVITOVA 24 HAUTE CUISINE 26 SPANISH FOOD 28 CRAIOVA MAP 30 BUDAPEST STREET ART 32 HOTELS 34 FITNESS PRODUCTS

DOWNLOAD THE WIZZ AIR APP! Scan one of the QR codes on the right and you will be taken directly to the free Wizz Air app download page.

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WE L COM E elcome on board one of the fastest growing airlines in Europe! The past year has been very exciting for us – we now offer more low-fare seats and routes than ever before. We were the first airline to fly into Dubai World Central Airport when it opened in October last year, with flights from Bucharest, Budapest, Kyiv and Sofia.

We have now expanded our popular Tel Aviv network to nine routes with the recent addition of Prague in the Czech Republic, Sofia in Bulgaria and Lviv in Ukraine. We also added Moscow to our 95 destinations with a low-fare route from Budapest. In response to our great service and choice of routes, over 13.5 million passengers chose to fly with Wizz Air in 2013. And today I’d like take to the opportunity to thank you for flying with us as some of the first passengers in 2014.

This year is set to be another exciting one for us. Our fleet will grow from 45 A320s to 53 with the addition of nine state-of-the-art Airbus aircraft, similar to the one on which you are travelling today. We have announced the opening of our 18th and 19th bases in Lviv, Ukraine, and Craiova, Romania, and we’ll increase our existing operations in Bucharest, Budapest, Skopje, Sofia, Vilnius and Warsaw in the coming months. Not to mention that we now

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have more than 300 routes flying to 35 different countries across Europe and beyond. Just keep a close eye on wizzair. com for all route news and, of course, to book your next trip with us.

Are you a winter sports lover? Head for the slopes at one of our many ski destinations this winter. Wizz Air flies to a number of ski-friendly airports, including Geneva, Milan, Barcelona, Oslo, Sofia, Grenoble, Kutaisi and more.

Book your winter holiday now on wizzair. com for fantastic low fares to ski resorts across Europe.

If you want to surprise your loved ones, remember that you can offer them their dream holiday or short getaway vacation by purchasing one of our convenient Gift Vouchers on wizzair.com.

Vouchers are available in denominations of €25 and €50 and can be used both on flights and services. With only one click our Gift Vouchers are delivered directly via email and include your own personalised message.

And, for our frequent travellers, we have just launched a new loyalty product, the WIZZ Privilege Pass. This virtual pass can be purchased on wizzair.com for just €99. It allows holders unlimited priority boarding and free large cabin bags on all Wizz Air flights during at least one year. Our regular flyers will find that the savings they’ll make by not paying for priority boarding and a large cabin bag separately will cover the cost of the pass in no time. For more details, visit our website.

Finally, from all of us here at Wizz Air, sit back and relax while our crew takes you to your destination. Thank you for choosing us and have an enjoyable flight!

József Váradi Chief Executive Officer, Wizz Air

Did You Know?

45

95

300+

35

Airbus A320 aircraft in our fleet

destinations available in the Wizz Air network

routes across Europe and beyond

countries on the Wizz Air map

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The Buzz WORDS BY RACHAEL PILKINGTON, CLAIRE MARTIN / PHOTO BY SUSAN WRIGHT

BEHIND THE MASKS Most of Venice’s locals cheerfully leave when carnival rolls into town, so almost all of the masked revellers you see are actually tourists. But that doesn’t dampen the fun.

Get into the spirit with a truly beautiful mask – an 800-year-old Venetian tradition – created by Mario Belloni (pictured; one of the oldest mask-makers in town) at Ca’Macana (camacana.com) or by your own fair hand at one of his workshops. Venice Carnival runs from 15 February – 4 March

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The Buzz

Liquorice Festival There are few foods more divisive than liquorice, the distinctive root shrub sweet that gradually turns the inside of your mouth black.

The Swedes, however, always give the stuff a big thumbs up, and this year sees Stockholm’s sixth annual Liquorice Festival, welcoming liquorice lovers from across the globe. The theme for 2014 is ‘The World of Liquorice’.

Chefs will show you just how diverse this ingredient can be, with liquorice-flavoured macarons, chocolate, Champagne cocktails, cupcakes, meringue and even liquorice liqueur. 22-23 March, lakritsfestivalen.se

Ring for Service Director Wes Anderson knows how to draw a good cast, and his new film The Grand Budapest Hotel is no exception. Jude Law, Owen Wilson, Tilda Swinton and Adrien Brody are just some of the acting talent in this tale set in the Hungarian capital’s interwar years.

Ralph Fiennes is concierge Gustave H, who fulfils his guests’ eccentric requirements, only to find himself ultimately accused of murder.

When the poster for the film (pictured above) was unveiled we couldn’t help milarity between but notice a striking similarity otel and Anderson’s fictitious hotel the grandest hotel in hia Budapest, the Corinthia (formerly known as thee Grand Royal Hotel).

We caught up with thee

Corinthia hotel’s very own Gustave H, chief concierge Tamás Ungár, who has worked there for 30 years, to see if there are any bizarre goings-on at his grand Budapest hotel.

“We're always prepared for unusual requests,” Ungár tells me. “You need to be a very open-minded, emphatic person to meet a guest’s needs.” When we ask him to tell us the most peculiar, he gives us a knowing smile. “One gave us just an hour to arrange 100 white roses for midnight. Another wanted to go on stage and be part of an opera performance. To pull off such strange requests is the great beauty of our profession.”

But what about murder? Crime? Intrigue?

Again, he offers that cool smile. “I’ve been doing this job for 30 years and nothing surprises me any more,” he says. Ever the d diplomat, obviously what goes oon in the Corinthia stays in the C Corinthia, unlike in Anderson's B Budapest hotel. So book a room ffor yourself and find out…

Book at wizzair.com. The Grand Budapest Hotel is out on 7 March

A CROWD ON THE HORIZON After its highly successful debut last season, Horizon returns to the snowy slopes of Bansko, near Sofia, for another week of skiing hard by day and partying harder by night. With more than 30 parties in abandoned secret hotels, mountain stages in the forest, underground clubs, pool-side chill-out spots, and internationally renowned DJs such as Andreya Triana (pictured), Roy Davis Jnr and dBridge, this electronic dance music festival is set to be huge. 8-14 March, horizonfestival.net

PHOTOS BY PLANET PHOTOS, GETTY

Wes Anderson’s new film The Grand Budapest Hotel is about an esteemed concierge, played by Ralph Fiennes, who is able to fix any request. We ask the concierge of the Corinthia hotel, formerly the Grand Royal, to compare notes

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The Buzz Want to whisk your loved one away for Valentine’s Day, but don’t know where to go? Follow your heart and answer these questions to find your perfect romantic springtime getaway.

1. When do you celebrate Valentine’s Day? A) On 14 February, of course B) Every day is Valentine’s Day in my house (Editor’s note: pass us a bucket, please) C) I like to take a couple of days to fully declare my love D) Any day BUT the 14th!

It’s so overdone

ILLUSTRATION BY TIM LAHAN

2. What is your ideal date?

A) An intimate dinner for two B) Dinner dates are boring – I say let’s go somewhere with a sense of history, purpose and tales of romance C) Stuff our faces with chocolate. Well, it’s an aphrodisiac, right?

MOSTLY A You old romantic; you open doors for your loved one, plan dinners by candlelight and buy thoughtful gifts. For V-day, reserve a table at London’s most romantic restaurant, Clos Maggiore in Covent Garden. It’s styled on a beautiful country inn in Provence, with wood panelled rooms, candle light, and flowers and foliages. Book ahead. closmaggiore.com

MOSTLY B Many say Venice is the most romantic city in Italy but, mi amore, we say head west to Verona, home to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.

Verona in Love (14-16 February), a celebration of romance, has a competition to see who can write the best letter to Juliet, a market in the shape of a heart and flowers and music everywhere. Singletons may wish to visit later in the year. veronainlove.com

MOSTLY C It’s hailed as one of the world’s greatest aphrodisiacs. And we bet nothing is guaranteed to get you and your lover going quite like Lviv’s chocolate festival (14-16 February) – the world’s largest event dedicated to all things chocolate. There will be sculptures, tastings, competitions and workshops to satisfy even the sweetest tooth. shokolad.lviv.ua

D) It doesn’t really matter, as long as it starts with a beautiful bouquet of flowers 3. Who do you think is the all-time perfect couple?

A) Mark Darcy and Elizabeth Bennett from Pride and Prejudice B) Romeo and Juliet C) Baby and Johnny Castle from Dirty Dancing D) Cathy and Heathcliff from Wuthering Heights 4. What gift will you give on Valentine’s Day? A) Jewellery B) Time together C) Food D) Flowers 5. Do you believe in love at first sight?

A) Definitely B) Definitely maybe C) Not really D) Sometimes

MOSTLY D Why not go one better than flowers with a visit to one of the world’s most beautiful gardens? Come spring, Keukenhof, less than two hours from Eindhoven, is simply gorgeous, with seven million tulips, daffodils, hyacinths filling 32 hectares with colour and fragrance. It doesn’t open till 20 March, but who says love has to be celebrated just on one day? keukenhof.nl

BATHING IN BEER? Now, it sounds a little odd to us, but at Starkenburg Castle, just outside Munich, you’ll find not one but seven 13ft beer-filled swimming pools. Only in Germany, eh? Some 42,000 pints of warm amber nectar from the castle’s own brewery fill each pool and while you can’t drink from the

spa, beer is available to order mid-dip. Rich in vitamins and calcium, soaking in beer is said to help cure skin problems. But if you prefer your beer with clothes on, 19 March begins the two-week long Starkbierzeit, also in Munich, where brewers can legally sell beers of 7% alcohol and up.

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The Buzz

What We’re Talking About Last year’s coolest event in London was Hot Tub Cinema where – you’ve guessed it – you watch a screening in a hot tub. Now they’ve launched Hot Tub Speed Dating (for the very brave, or very toned). You book in groups of three, so there’s safety in numbers. hottubcinema.com

Odd Eats in Moscow ● Twin Stars Diner

Nope, the vodkas haven’t got you seeing double at this restaurant. The policy at the slightly spooky Twin Stars Diner is to hire only identical twins, dressed in identical clothes, for its waiting staff and bartenders.

The twins even have to work in unison. Alexei Khodorkovsky, the brains behind the eccentric restaurant, claims to have been inspired by his favourite childhood movie, the 1964 Soviet fairy-tale film Kingdom of Crooked Mirrors, in which a girl winds up in an alternate reality and meets her twin. Twin Star Diners is already a hit with both Muscovites and tourists. Go for yourself – just make sure you don’t tip twice! Pyatnitska 5, Moscow

● Bunker 42 Located 65m below street level in the centre of Moscow, Bunker 42 is a 7000m2 complex built during the Cold War, designed to house military officials in the event of a nuclear attack. It’s now a museum, and restaurant – although, thankfully, you can expect better food than the watery, tinned borscht you’d be stuck with if you were down there for its original purpose. bunker42.com ● Expedition With a life-sized orange helicopter and stuffed polar bear in the middle of the dining room, Expedition is meant to be more than simply a dining experience – it’s an adventure, too. The food, described as ‘Russian Artic’, includes wild duck, fresh berries, elk and smoked venison. In 2008, President Putin and his successor Dmitry Medvedev celebrated their Presidential election here. expedicia.ru

Scotland’s best ice cream Our editor is training for the Paris Marathon in April. So the last thing she should be doing is stuffing her face. But who could resist this decadent toffee tablet sundae at Nardini’s famous ice-cream parlour while visiting the seaside town of Largs (near Glasgow)? Not her…

ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN CHAPMAN

Moscow’s latest culinary destination, Twin Stars Diner, is one of three weird venues in this Russian city that’s still wonderfully immune to chain venues

Our Târgu Mure,s scrapbook We decided to create a scrapbook for our Târgu Mure,s story. It consists of Polaroid snaps of the sights and our favourite cafés and bars, ticket stubs, tourist maps and labels diligently peeled off beer bottles.

Turn to page 59 for the result.

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No.102994 - Myferrylink.indd 1

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The Buzz

Ready, Steady, Go! Did you fall at the first hurdle with your New Year fitness resolutions? Spring is the season to lace up your trainers. Work towards a goal with one of these running challenges – from safe to scary

10 KM

23 MARCH 2 STRAMILANO Perfect for beginners and intermediates. Join 50,000 non-elite runners outside Milan’s spectacular Duomo (thee e’s white marble cathedral) for this scenic, flat course. There’s also a 5km and 21km route on the day. stramilano.it

42 KM

6 APRIL PARIS MARATHON arts One of the world’s top five marathons, the Paris race starts at the Champs-Élysées and passes the Notre Dame, and ne?

Eiffel Tower. It's largely hill-free – so personal best, anyone? schneiderelectricparismarathon.com

16–19 KM

26-27 AP APRIL THE TOUGH MUDDER The organisers say this is “probably the toughest event on the planet”. Yikes! The 36 ‘surprise’ obstacles designed by the British Special Forces are so extreme that only 78% of entrants will complete the London course. toughmudder.co.ukk

10 KM

12 JULY BLED 10K NIGHT RUN Starting at 10pm, runners duplicate the circuit around Slovenia’s most picturesque spot, Lake Bled, 30 miles outside Ljubljana. Shame it’s at night so you won’t be able to take in its full beauty! nocna10ka.net

168 KM

29 AUGUST ULTRA-TRAIL DU MONT-BLANC Surely this is the toughest race on the planet. Competitors pass France, Italy and Switzerland during the 168km run with a 9,600m ascent, 71 glaciers and 400 summits. Only for the very, very fit. And crazy. ultratrailmb.com

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THE VIEW PEOPLE

FOOD

P L AC E S

SHOPPING

ILLUSTRATION BY ADAM WIERCINSKI

Back to the Future “Tower 2.0 is my entry for a competition to revitalise historic buildings in Poland. If my proposal is adopted, this water tower and former prison in Wronki [near Poznan] will become a water tower again, but will also house a museum, bar and hotel.”

Adam Wierciński, the architect behind Tower 2.0. adamwiercinski.pl

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THE VIEW

P EOP L E

Ron Arad’s Tel Aviv Nico Kos talks to the Israeli designer and architect about his home city, Tel Aviv

on Arad spent his childhood playing under buildings, many of them built on stilts. “We used to stand in awe before the Shalom Tower – once the tallest building in Tel Aviv. It seems pretty small now,” he says with a smile.

I meet Arad, the Tel Aviv-born designer and architect, at his HQ in Chalk Farm, north London. His studio – with bright red floors, chairs mounted on the walls like futuristic sculptures and swirling steel pillars – is a long way from

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1950s Tel Aviv, where Arad grew up. Yet it’s a fitting setting for the man who has transformed his home city into an international destination for art and culture with just one building: the Holon Design Museum.

Completed in 2010, the museum, with its voluminous, bright red curves, is highly distinctive. It does not strike me as something created to match the environment, I remark. “I worked autistically, creating an island,” Arad tells me, a phrase he later

uses in relation to the design of Tel Aviv’s Opera House foyer.

“There was no point in trying to fit in.” Part of a 16-year regeneration plan for Holon, the museum was, incredibly, the first large-scale building project

by Arad, known until then as an innovative furniture designer.

“You do not need a different passport for each discipline,” he says. “The set of objectives informs the design. Studio designs have the most freedom, architecture is a negotiation.”

With the Holon Design Museum, Tel Aviv’s opera house and upcoming projects including a six-floor residential building on the city’s seafront (which, from a bird’s eye view, will resemble a boomerang suspended in flight), Arad’s work is changing the face of one of the most exciting cities in the world. “Tel Aviv is a great city,” he says. “Everyone who lives there now is in love with the place.

It was not always that way; it became a city that likes itself. That makes it a good place to visit.”

When I ask Arad to describe his ideal day in Tel Aviv, he recalls a recent visit, where he was asked by a client where he would like to stay. He replied “the Montefiore (hotelmontefiore.co.il), my favourite hotel in the world! It is in the Bauhaus district, which has an incredible architectural history – from the former town hall on Kikar Bialik to Alexander Levy’s Pagoda House.” But when he arrived they had no record of him.

“I was booked into another hotel, Montefiore27,” he laughs. He

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LEFT: THE DRAMATIC DESIGN MUSEUM HOLON WAS COMPLETED IN 2010.

TOP RIGHT: ARAD’S CURVACEOUS GOLDEN STAIRCASE AT THE TEL AVIV OPERA HOUSE. BOTTOM RIGHT: SHENKIN STREET IS THE FRIENDLIEST SHOPPING STREET IN TEL AVIV, ACCORDING TO ARAD.

PHOTO BY ALAMY

“TEL AVIV IS A GREAT CITY. EVERYONE WHO LIVES THERE IS IN LOVE WITH THE PLACE. IT BECAME A CITY THAT LIKES ITSELF”

stayed at the low-key guest house one night and then tried in vain to get a reservation at the his first choice. It must be an exceptionally popular hotel if they couldn’t find room for Ron Arad, I tell him. “You have to book well in advance and there are only 12 rooms,” he shrugs.

Back to his perfect trip, and he says he’d arrive in the evening for dinner at the Montefiore’s brasserie-style restaurant, famous for its Vietnamese food. The next morning would begin with a leisurely walk down the Boulevard Rothschild, stopping in one of the cafés and browsing boutiques before arriving at the daily street market where a cacophony of voices “competing to sell their vegetables jolt me awake”.

From there he would go on the Helena Rubenstein Pavilion for Contemporary Art (tamuseum. org.il/helena-rubinstein-pavilion), which forms part of the Culture Square built in 1952. “It is a gem of a place,” he says, “and was the Tel Aviv Museum until it relocated to the Shaul Hamelech Boulevard in 1971.” Then he might check ticket availability at the Habimah Theatre or the Mann Auditorium for an evening show before going for lunch at Houmus Ali Karavan.

He would browse Shenkin Street, what Arad calls the “friendly shopping street”. If you like to haggle, he instructs: “Go to the flea market in Jaffa!” And, to finish a perfect day in Tel Aviv, he suggests going “to the sea, near where I grew up”. There are some treats that north London simply can’t match.

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P EOP L E

THE VIEW

The Blogger Challenge Last year, Wizz Air threw down the gauntlet to the online travel writing community: show us that jetting around Europe is affordable and fun. Our winner, Larissa Olenicoff – aka Blonde Gypsy – bagged herself a trip to Kyiv

hen I saw on Facebook that Wizz Air was seeking out bloggers to give their opinion on cool cities on the network and show just how cheap it can be to travel around Europe, I knew I had to respond. I’ve been flying Wizz Air for years; most of my favourites cities in Eastern Europe are on their destinations list, and the fact that Wizz Air’s fares are dirt cheap is invaluable for a wanderer like myself.

I was midway through a road trip from Bosnia & Herzegovina to Georgia last October when I was delighted to receive an email informing me that I was one of the lucky bloggers who had won free flights for my own WIZZ

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Challenge. All they needed to know was, “Where did I want to fly?”. With Europe as my oyster, and the knowledge that Wizz Air had recently opened a route to Kutaisi, the second largest city in Georgia, I immediately began researching on where I might go from there. The moment I saw I could fly directly to Kyiv, my mind was made up.

The Ukrainian capital has always been a favourite of mine, yet it had been two long years and one UEFA Eurocup since I’d last visited. I knew it wouldn’t be exactly the same as how I’d left it, due to all its work in preparation for hosting one of Europe’s most important championships two years ago.

Though much of the old-school charm that I first fell in love with was still there, Kyiv was fresher, brighter and seemingly much more cosmopolitan this time around.

Its gold domes were more golden, the gorgeous facades had a fresh lick of paint and there were cool bars and restaurants on every corner – never had I seen it as ready for visitors than it is right now.

It might be a bit pricier than most other cities in Ukraine, but Kyiv is still one of the most affordable European cities I’ve visited, and is so rich in cultural treasures that you can easily spend a week or more exploring without breaking the bank. blonde-gypsy.com

L A R I S S A’ S TO P 5 K Y I V ● Walk St. Andrew’s Descent ● Explore the World War II Memorial Complex ● Spend a day exploring the Lavra and its caves ● Down a Borscht mojito at Banka, a creative cocktail bar ● Party all night at Lesnoy Prichal, a Berlin-esque club

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THE VIEW

P EOP L E

“I am lucky to come from a country with such a great tennis history”

Former Wimbledon champion and current world number six Petra Kvitová talks about her idols and the Czech Republic’s recent tennis success Petra Kvitová, 23, is a woman of simple tastes. “I like sleeping in my own bed, I love eating Czech food and watching TV,” she says.

“Winning Wimbledon in 2011 didn’t change me as a person. I still lead a quiet life. Of course, the attention is greater but I have learnt to cope with that and just try to play my tennis.”

Her triumph at the world’s oldest tournament, in south-west London, followed in the footsteps of fellow Czech tennis stars Martina Navratilova and Jana Novotná. “Both players definitely inspired me a lot,” says Kvitová, who was the first left-handed female player to win Wimbledon since Navratilova and the first Czech player to

lift the trophy since Novotná in 1998. “Martina was the first player I watched on TV when I was a child. I had the chance to go to Wimbledon with her the winter after I won and it was very special for both of us. I am lucky to come from a country where we have such great tennis history.”

Currently ranked sixth in the world, Kvitová is doing her bit to keep Czech tennis strong. “Tennis is getting more popular in the Czech Republic, especially since we have won both the Fed Cup and Davis Cup recently,” she says.

With her booming serve (she hit an astonishing 36 aces on the way to the Wimbledon title) and powerful groundstrokes, Kvitová is the ideal player to inspire future generations. The Czech star developed her exciting style of play while growing up in Fulnek, with her father acting as her coach. “I played indoors on a

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WORDS BY PIERRE DE VILLIERS / PHOTOS BY GETTY

AD fast court a lot because it was so cold in the winter. That’s why my game is so aggressive.”

In 2008 she utilised this hard court prowess to knock Venus Williams out of the first round in Memphis, then win her first career title the next year in Hobart, Australia. In 2011 she reached the quarter finals at the Australian Open before beating Maria Sharapova in the final at Wimbledon and reaching world number two later the same year.

Today she refuses to set firm goals for 2014 other than continuing to play for her country.

“It means a lot when you wear the colours of your country and have the crowd cheering for you,” says Kvitová, who played a crucial role in the Czech Republic winning the Fed Cup in 2011 and 2012. “It’s something different from the WTA tournaments. I am very proud to be from the Czech Republic.”

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TOP: PETRA KVITOVÁ WITH THE COVETED WIMBLEDON TROPHY. ABOVE: KVITOVÁ’S POWERFUL GROUNDSTROKE IN ACTION. LEFT: ANOTHER ONE OF HER ASTONISHING SERVES?

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THE VIEW

F OO D

HERE COMES THE SCIENCE BIT: HOW TO COOK AT HIGH ALTITUDES 1. BREAD This is where high altitude has its most pronounced effect; it massively changes the rising and proofing time of breads. Use less yeast, less flour and more liquid.

Haute Cuisine The low air pressure in ski resorts makes cooking a challenge.

Michelin-starred chef Jean Sulpice tells us how he creates gourmet food in the high altitudes of the French Alps hen we asked chef Jean Sulpice, who runs L’Oxalys, a restaurant in Val Thorens, about cooking at altitude, he first talked of practicalities. “Often deliveries are cancelled because there is too much snow and the road is closed.” But even when your supplies get there, high altitude brings its own problems. “When you’re up so high, the air is extremely dry,” he observes. “Wine ages faster. Bread dries more quickly. At this altitude, water boils at 80˚C instead of 100˚C. The first time I tried to cook a boiled egg, I had to do it three times!”

The low air pressure means that food takes longer to cook, which causes havoc for high-flying chefs accustomed

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to cooking at sea level. But Sulpice seems to have taken it all in his stride. He has won two Michelin stars at L’Oxalys, which at 2,300m is one of the highest restaurants in Europe.

“You can’t fight against nature,” he says. “You have to adapt, find a solution and listen to old locals who know about cooking here.”

His menu tends to feature Savoyard-style Alpine cuisine; seasonal dishes such as chestnut velouté with a cold parmesan and truffle emulsion. “I am lucky to be in a beautiful area, with excellent products. And altitude also brings some advantages!” he says. “I make a dessert with a meringue which is much lighter and thinner than a normal meringue.” jeansulpice.com

2. EGG Boiling an egg takes about three minutes normally. It takes roughly five minutes at an altitude of 5,000ft – you must boil an extra minute for each 2,500ft above sea level.

3. CUPCAKES Baking cupcakes typically takes about 20 minutes at 180°C. For light and fluffy cupcakes at high altitudes, you need increase the oven temperature by 15-25°C. 4. STEAK Liquid evaporates faster at great height, which means your steak will cook quicker. Not good if you like your meat rare! Cook the meat for less time and leave to rest for longer.

5. PASTA You’ll need to add about 20% more water to counteract evaporation. And cooking pasta takes about five minutes longer at higher altitudes. Be careful or you’ll end up with al dente spaghetti.

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THE VIEW

F OO D

Step up to the Plate

S we et Pa dr on pe pp er s

WORDS BY AMY DENNIS / PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM. E WHITE

Thought Spanish food was just tapas?

Think again. Catalonia’s larger platos dishes embrace fresh and innovative Mediterranean influences says Josep Carbonell of London’s Tramontana restaurant

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Rich and wintry lobster rice

Olive oil is my favourite ingredient,” says Tramontana’s head chef Josep Carbonell as he pours a generous glug of aceite over a delicate salt cod salad.

“In Spain, olive oil is the base of each dish and its dressing.

I didn’t even know you could cook without olive oil until I arrived in the UK 17 years ago!”

Tramontana is the newest addition to London’s popular chain of Brindisa restaurants.

Brindisa began about 25 years ago, when owner Monika Linton struggled to find high quality Spanish produce in the UK. She began to import Spanish food herself and opened a shop, Brindisa, in Borough Market in London, arguably kickstarting the city’s love affair with tapas.

At Tramontana, Carbonell explains that as the Mediterranean coast is the star of the show (particularly his home region of Catalonia in north eastern Spain), tapas dishes are accompanied with large, innovative platos to share. “The secret to Catalan and Spanish food is the ingredients. We go to great lengths to find small, local producers who’ve been doing what they do for generations,” he says.

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C od sal a d w it h o l ive oi l

To prove his point, Carbonell first attentively prepares an arroz (rice) dish with lobster.

To the untrained eye, this dish looks similar to paella, but it is rich, it is wintry and boy, it is delicious. The heady, sweet scent of the seafood broth has us salivating instantly.

During the 40 minutes it took to prepare, Carbonell also whipped up a plate of Padrón peppers, a simple classic pan de tomate and olives and mojama (dried tuna, which look more like fine slivers of ham) served with almonds and mango. “In Cataluña we have drawn more influences from France and Italy”, he explains as he talks me through the fideuà, another large plate, made with thin pasta noodles and served with meaty prawns.

Before he lets us tuck in, the head chef turns sommelier. “We dine with Cava in Cataluña,” he tells us. “It’s a real luxury, but it’s a popular grape in this region and at a big dinner either your friends or your family’s friends will be Cava producers and bring along a bottle or two.” And with that we toast “Brindis!”(“Cheers!”), from which the chain of restaurants’ name is derived.

Tramontana Brindisa, 152 Curtain Road, EC2, brindisa.com

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THE VIEW

P L ACE S

Get Cultural in Craiova

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This little-known Romanian city is packed with fascinating cultural gems. We’ve selected five of the best to catch on a flying visit

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omania’s sixth largest city may not be universally hailed as a tourist hotspot, but for a cultural weekend away, Craiova’s well worth the ticket.

Dating back to 400BC, this former Dacian and Roman stronghold (known then as Pelendava) located on the River Jiu is now an industrial and manufacturing base, capital of Dolj county and home to one of Romania’s top universities. Here are five must-see cultural sights in the now bustling, modern city.

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1. Madonna Dudu Church Craiova has a number of beautiful churches, but the pick of the bunch is the resplendent neoclassical Madonna Dudu Church. Built in the 18th century and almost destroyed by earthquake in 1831, it reopened 13 years later with the addition of some splendid murals by neoclassical MoldovianRomanian painter Gheorghe Tattarescu. Just north of the Madonna Dudu is the Cathedral of Saint Demetrius, which dates back to the early 1930s – not quite as dazzling, but still worth a look.

2. Muzeul Olteniei Learn more about the wider region by heading to Casa Baniei. Here you’ll find the Olteniei Museum, hosted in the 17th-century Bania House, itself a major architectural monument. The history of life in Oltenia as related here begins with hunting, fishing and gathering, and evolves into raising cattle, working the fields and harvesting the crops.

It’s all carefully detailed alongside wooden carvings and ceramics, wedding costumes, weapons and fortified building plans. muzeulolteniei.ro

3. Fântâna Muzical As Romania shrugs off its cold, dark evenings, the locals tend to spend their evenings in Craiova’s historical centre, Mihai Viteazu Square. Come summer, it’s here, by the equestrian statue of 16thcentury Romanian war hero Mihai Viteazu, that you’ll find the city’s star attraction: a gigantic musical fountain. Every summer evening, hundreds of water jets ‘dance’ in time to music, enhanced by coloured lights. It’s quite a spectacle.

WORDS BY CLAIRE MARTIN / ILLUSTRATION BY DANIEL FROST

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4. Muzeul de Arta This newly restored art museum is housed in a baroque-style building, built just over a century ago as a palace for wealthy merchant Jean Mihail. With its dramatic marble staircase, Murano crystal chandeliers, carved wooden ceilings and gilded stucco, it’s a work of art in itself. The museum has three sections; European Art, Romanian Art and the Brâncusi room; devoted to Romania’s most famous sculptor, Constantin Brâncusi. Don’t miss his most famous piece, The Kiss. muzeuldeartacraiova.ro

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5. Teatrul National Marin Sorescu The National Theatre in Craiova was founded in 1850, but the modern building you see today opened in 1973, during what is generally regarded as Romania’s golden age of theatre. Under director Silviu Purcarete (who retired in 2012), this venue forged an international reputation for dramatic excellence. The theatre sometimes hosts musical concerts as well as performance troupes from other countries. tncms.ro

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THE VIEW

P L ACE S

City Street Scrapbook Budapest’s bleak, neglected buildings are now worth looking up to, thanks to a team of street artists who have turned some of the city’s greatest moments into giant-sized murals eopaint Works have been transforming derelict walls in Budapest for the past 10 years.

But the local officials have nothing to fear from these young street artists – they only pay homage to their city, painting iconic and memorable scenes from its past on walls and buildings. Take their newest and largest mural at Rumbach Sebestyén utca, created to celebrate 60 years since the Hungarian football team’s 1953 World Cup victory over England.

“When this game kicked off,

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everyone called it the match of the century,” says Jankovits Barnabás, one of Neopaint’s founding members. “We were called ‘the Golden Team’, and it was the first time England were beaten at home for 90 years.”

It took nine people two weeks to complete. “We hope it will stay for a decade or more,” says Barnabás, “but the building is currently a parking lot. Soon someone will probably put up a new building.”

Another to seek out is the lamppost mural (pictured top right) on Király utca in trendy

District 7, completed in April last year. This collaboration between Neopaint and the district council aimed to breathe new life into dilapidated buildings. “The writing at the bottom, by Hungarian writer Krúdy Gyula, describes this as a classic Pest street,” says Barnabás. “This mural will hopefully remain forever!”

Keep your eyes peeled while wandering around; this year Neopaint plans to paint seven more walls in District 7. neopaint-works.tumblr.com

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COMMEMORATING HUNGARY’S 6-3 VICTORY OVER ENGLAND; CREATING THE FOOTBALL MURAL; NEOPAINT’S LAMPPOST ARTWORK; THE ARTISTS USE PAINT THAT WILL LAST 20 YEARS; THE MURALS ARE SO LARGE THAT THE STREET ARTISTS NEED SCAFFOLDING TO REACH THE TOP.

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P L ACE S

A High Style Hideaway

● Le Regina, Warsaw To write our Warsaw fashion story for this issue (see page 45), where better to stay than a hotel with serious style, not to mention a great location?

We’re talking about Le Regina, housed in a beautiful terracotta building (formerly an aristocrat’s palace) on an unassuming cobbled street in the New Town.

Elegant rather than edgy, but still very modern and cool, this five-star boutique bolthole has 58 rooms and three suites, all featuring beautiful Italian furniture, flat-screen TVs and complimentary Wi-Fi. We were fortunate enough to stay in the gorgeous, light and airy penthouse suite, which was as luxurious as you’d expect, with

dove-grey wooden floors, soft white bedding and fantastic views across to the Old Town.

Not that we spent all our time in the room – we had a story to write! But we needed to eat, too.

The large lobby leads off to the small breakfast room which also doubles as La Rotisserie restaurant in the evening. Here chef Pawel

Oszczyk serves delicious dishes which combine French cuisine with Polish techniques and ingredients – our favourite was the roasted guinea fowl with dates and chestnuts. And, if you have time, book in a spa treatment. Well, with so much to see and do in Warsaw, you’ll need a little time to unwind.

Book at wizzair.com

3 OF THE BEST: ROMANTIC HOTELS ● Alchymist Hotel, Prague You can’t get a more romantic location in Prague than the Alchymist hotel (pictured left).

Just a few steps from the castle and Charles Bridge, this fairy-tale 13th-century hotel is the perfect setting for a loved-up weekend.

Book a massage for two in the opulent spa. Book at wizzair.com

● Five Hotel, Paris Vibrant and sexy, this fun, ultramodern boutique hotel in one of the world’s most romantic cities is lavishly designed, with red velvet, purple Chinese lacquer décor and fibre-optic fairy lights. The suite comes with a private patio and its very own Jacuzzi. Book at wizzair.com

● AquaGrand, Lindos, Rhodes This idyllic hotel overlooking the Aegean Sea paints a picture of a Mamma Mia!-inspired love affair, without the catchy music.

The five-star, adults-only resort has 136 rooms, an in-house spa and gourmet dining at two restaurants. Book at wizzair.com

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THE VIEW

S HO P P I NG

Get Physical We’ve been working out non-stop testing out the best kit – from shoes to water bottles – for fitness buffs

PUMA FASS 300 These lightweight stability shoes are great for short runs and gym sessions. (€78, sweatshop.co.uk)

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TOMTOM GPS WATCH Track your run, cycle or swim with this clever GPS watch. (€216, johnlewis.com)

PEARL UZUMI TOP Look super stylish in this cute purple and turquoise top. (€30, pearlizumi.co.uk)

SPEEDO WATER BOTTLE Fill this lightweight bottle with water or a sports drink with electrolytes. (€7, surfdome.com)

EXERCISE BALL Do sit-ups on this 65cm gym ball for a core of steel. (€20, johnlewis.com)

DUNLOP M4.0 TOUR Increase your power and control with this light tennis racket. (€191, sportsdirect.com)

EASTPAK WYOMING BAG Bin your old sweaty gym bag away and invest in this trendy backpack. (€66, eastpak.com)

ALPINESTARS SOCKS Comfy socks (like these) are the key to a blister-free workout. (€15, alpinestars.com)

PUMA PURE SHORTS These shorts draw sweat away from your skin, keeping you cool. (€26, prodirectrunning.com)

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LVIV ON THE EDGE A secret bunker that requires visitors to shout allegiance to a clandestine guerrilla force, a lurid den of sadomasochism and pubs staffed by dwarves‌ Is Lviv home to the weirdest collection of bars in Europe?

Words by Peterjon Cresswell / Photography by Jaroslav Monchak

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LV I V

“Slava Ukraini!” bellows the uniformed guard at the door (“Glory to the Ukraine!”).

If you want to avoid being turned away, you must declare “Heroyam Slava!” (“Glory to the heroes!”). With this invocation of a Stalin-era code, the guard will swing open a bookcase to reveal a secret staircase. Walk down the steps and you will be offered a glass of strong local spirit and ushered into an underground world of military subterfuge. At some point in the evening, a fellow customer might be hauled up, slammed against the wall and forced to confess to being a secret Soviet agent. Welcome to another night at Lviv’s bunker-like Kryjivka – part-bar, part-performance and part-history lesson.

Kryjivka is not a one-off. This city in western Ukraine is becoming famous for its extreme theme bars, but the themes, though unusual, are by no means randomly

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KRYJIVKA: WHERE EVERYBODY NEEDS TO KNOW YOUR NAME

picked: all touch upon various areas and eras of Lviv’s history. Of course, in England, a pub styled decoratively around bygone London may display portraits of characters from Dickens. A bistro in Paris might enshrine its literary heritage, with a drink named after Hemingway, or Sartre’s favourite seat.

But Lviv, and its bars, are altogether different. Ruled, over the centuries, by Poland, Austria-Hungary, Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia, this elegant outpost of Galicia [a region that straddled part of Poland and Ukraine] has always retained a strong sense of its identity. Yet for the decades before Ukraine became independent in 1991, and even after, parts of its history (such as the movement against the Soviets depicted at Kryjvika) remained secret. One man who has helped unveil this history, and establish a string of fascinating bars around it, is Yuriy Nazaruk.

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LET’S DO SHOTS AT KRYJIVKA!

The creative genius behind !Fest (fest. lviv.ua), a group of themed bars, cafés and restaurants in Lviv, Nazaruk is passionate about his hometown. “When we started, we were very controversial,” he says.

“Even now, our most popular venue has no address, no billboard or sign outside.

First-time visitors have to ask around to find it, despite it being on Lviv’s Rynok Square – the main market square! This is because it was forbidden to talk about [secret anti-Soviet meetings], even until recently.”

The anti-Soviet meetings to which Nazaruk is referring are brought to life in Kryjivka, or ‘The Bunker’. It tells the story of clandestine guerrilla force the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) which fought against Soviet forces in World War II. In fact, the UPA carried on its undercover activities for over a decade after the war finished. Even today, it seems inconceivable

to think that in a society as rigidly policed as Stalin’s, there were paramilitary partisans patrolling the woods outside Lviv.

“I wanted to bring history to life,” says Nazaruk. “It was perhaps a crazy idea, but one that has really caught on. Now we’re getting up to half a million visitors a year. And we don’t even have a front door!”

“Most of our customers are surprised on their first visit,” agrees Larissa Pabst, senior manager. “Then they enjoy feeling up close to local history. Not every bar has waiters that greet you with ‘Withdraw, Muscovite!’.”

Kryjivka, established in 2007, was the first of !Fest's ventures. It now has nearly 20 venues under its umbrella, its themes conceived by Nazaruk, each shining a light on what he describes as “the colour of the city”.

Around the same time as Kryjivka, Kumpel (6 Vynnychenka Street) opened its doors.

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“It’s like a world of underground secrets, part of a different era. Not every bar has waiters that greet you with the welcome, ‘Withdraw, Muscovite!’”

VSEVOLOD POLISCHUK AT KUMPEL

KUMPEL WAS THE FIRST BREWERY/RESTAURANT IN LVIV

“We were the first pyvo [beer] restaurant with its own brewery,” says acting manager Vsevolod Polischuk. “We took the name from the street language of the batyars, local beer-drinking, accordion-playing ne’er-do-wells who hung about the poor quarters of Lviv around the last turn of the century.” For them, Polischuk tells me, a kumpel was a mate, the kind of drinking partner who’d stand up for you in a bar fight – but someone you wouldn’t lend money to.

Kumpel became another extremely popular drinking spot and now the group has several other bars and cafés around Lviv, as well as a second branch that opened in 2013.

“The cornerstone of our operation is to prepare beer and food using oldfashioned techniques and ingredients,” Polischuk continues. “This way we can help support and revive regional traditions and culture. One of the key features of Galicia was its multi-ethnicity, the mix of languages and cultures such as Ukrainian, Polish, Jewish, German, Hungarian, Gypsy and Armenian.

Our four main traditional beers were popular around the time of the Habsburg Empire.”

The publicity posters that decorate the interior of Kumpel date back to a century or more ago and the bar’s background multiethnic folk music would have been played in the taverns of the time.

Polischuk feels that Lviv differs from the rest of the country in its bar traditions.

“It was here that they made Ukraine’s first beers and first coffees,” he says. “The local bar is important in Lviv. Unlike other parts of Ukraine, where people are more likely to buy a bottle and some snacks and take them home, Galicians prefer to socialise. They like to take their coffee in coffeehouses and drink beer in bars.”

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GASOVA LAMPA

“I wanted to bring history to life. It was perhaps a crazy idea, but one that has really caught on. Now we’re getting up to half a million visitors a year”

A BAR THAT PAYS HOMAGE TO KEROSENE LAMPS? WHATEVER NEXT!

!FEST’S YURIY NAZARUK

BEAKERS NOT GLASSES AT GASOVA LAMPA

Nazaruk agrees. He goes further to say: “I feel I’m from Lviv first, then Galicia and lastly Ukraine. It’s so easy these days for a city to lose its identity. For me, an Irish pub is best to visit when you’re in Ireland and a Mexican restaurant when you’re in Mexico. What we’re dealing with here is original culture.”

And who more original to represent Lviv than one of its most infamous sons, Leopold von Sacher-Masoch? If his name rings a bell, then it’s because this 19th-century novelist, born and bred in Lviv when it was part of the Austrian Empire, unwittingly gave his name to the practice of masochism. This urge to be physically dominated by another, outlined in SacherMasoch’s cult novel Venus In Furs, gained modern-day notoriety thanks to alternative rock group The Velvet Underground using it as the title of one its songs.

At Masoch (7 Serbska Street), one of !Fest’s most notorious establishments, customers are surrounded by whips and leather, with mild S&M scenes carried out most nights. It’s provocative rather than pornographic, although the covers of the menus – containing a themed selection of drinks and dishes – are rather risqué.

A lesser-known son of Lviv is Ignacy Łukasiewicz, another subject for Nazaruk’s imagination. Part of a 19th-century Polish revolutionary group, Łukasiewicz was living in Lviv when he helped introduce the world’s first modern street lamps in 1853. They were here in Lviv before they arrived in London or Paris. Łukasiewicz’s lamps illuminate Gasova Lampa (20 Virmenska Street), another of Lviv’s out-there theme bars, with a primitive oil well in the entrance, hundreds of historical items on display and staff that

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et rn te tel n I d ho ee the p s t gh u hi gho e u e Fr hro T

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“Every project we’ve worked

on shows a different aspect of the city. And every visitor must leave with a smile on their face”

HISTORICAL HOUSE OF LEGENDS

SPECIAL THANKS TO LVIVALIVE.COM

resemble Victorian lamplighters. While over at the Dim Legend (“House of Legends”), staff have been chosen from Lviv’s dwarf community. Each level in this seven-storey building is decorated to tell an obscure Lviv folk story; urban myths relating to lions, timepieces, dragons or chimney sweeps.

Although perhaps the prime place to sip your local Lvivske pyvo is at a table on the roof terrace, where the panoramic view does little to hint at the city’s decadent underbelly.

If you don’t know much about Lviv’s history, its themed bars are a fun way to find out more. “Every project we’ve worked on shows a different aspect of the city,” says Nazaruk. “I'm positive that every visitor will leave having learnt something, and with a smile on their face.” And thankfully, bearing in mind how inebriated they might be, they won’t need a password to get out, either.

STAFF IN 19TH CENTURY GET-UP AT GASOVA LAMPA

THE ROOFTOP TERRACE AT HOUSE OF LEGENDS

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w a s r a Is W Hipper than Paris?

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WARSAWLOOKS.COM

Th e Fr en ch ci ty ha s lo ng be en a favo ur it e am on g fa sh io n power ho us es . Bu t ca n al te rn at ive st yl e ca pi ta l War saw st ea l it s cr ow n?

Wor ds by Amy D en ni s

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WARSAW

t the end of last year, I came across a video on The New York Times website in which a trendy, flamehaired woman with dark red lips and skinny jeans declared that Warsaw was “more hipster than Paris”. I hadn’t heard of young up-andcoming singer Martina Matwiejczuk, and I certainly had never heard anyone so coolly remark that Warsaw – hardly considered an international fashion capital – was hipper than Paris. Mon dieu! I knew I had to find out for myself, so I booked myself on the first Wizz Air flight from London to Warsaw to investigate the city’s hipster scene.

I head straight to Plac Zbawiciela (or Saviour Square) where The New York Times interview with Ms Matwiejczuk had taken place. Instantly, I can see what she meant about Warsaw being hip. Even in mid-winter, and layered up under warm coats and thermals, the locals here look achingly cool, dressed effortlessly in a kaleidoscope of colours, textures and styles.

Plac Zbawiciela is the setting for my meeting with stylist Olga Piekarksa, who gives me a whirlwind tour of the best boutiques and designers in the area. Olga, who has been styling fashion shoots for both Polish and French fashion magazines for over 15 years, is perfectly placed to talk me through the recent changes in Warsaw’s fashion history – and help me find out if Warsaw is indeed hipper than Paris. “The change here has been huge,”

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she tells me, pointing out a number of hip boutiques by Warsaw-based designers, such as Ania Kuczyńska (aniakuczynska.com) and Robert Kupisz (robertkupisz.com). “My job’s much easier now than 10 years ago. Before Polish designers were producing one-off pieces just for my shoots, but now they’re making more, I have so much choice.”

We pop in to Hot Herring (Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, hotherring.com), a concept store that opened at the beginning of last year just off trendy Mokotowska Street. Olga explains to me that this boutique is the perfect example of how hip international fashion labels – as well as homegrown talent – are now more accessible to Warsaws locals. “The owner,

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WARSAW

e v a h s n a i v o s r a V “ always had a good eye for fashion”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WARSAWLOOKS.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EVEN IN THE WINTER, VARSOVIANS LOOK COOL; A QUIRKY SHOP WINDOW; GRITTY STREET POSTERS; HOT HERRING ON WYZWOLENIA STREET.

Ewa Patkiewicz, doesn’t just buy in brands that are popular or well known,” Olga tells me as we walk through the door. “Only products of the finest quality land a place here.”

Ewa greets Olga and me, offering us both a cup of tea to stave off the outside chill.

“My husband and I used to visit boutiques when we were on holiday, like most people visit museums,” she says, as we sit on a brown, plump leather sofa. As I looked around spacious, airy Hot Herring, with its whitewashed brick walls, bare wooden floor, fashion magazines fanned out on the coffee table and kooky ping-pong bat decorations, I am reminded of a Parisian-style loft in the trendy 10th arrondissement. “We saw a huge gap in the market for this type of concept store in Warsaw, and we went for it,” continues Ewa. “Recently, things have really evolved; we knew now was the time that Warsaw was ready for a store offering individual, unique clothing. Varsovians always had an eye for good fashion – even when we had nothing, we were still stylish.”

After Olga and I say our goodbyes, we pass an old woman selling fresh eggs and hand-picked carnations, standing near upmarket menswear designer Tomasz Ossoliński (ul. Mokotowska 56; ossolinski. com) and, with a neon-pink sign hanging in the window, quirky boutique Blind (ul.

Mokotowska 63). “I love this mix of high fashion and humbleness,” says Olga.

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WARSAW

BELOW: PAULA ALEKSIEJUK AND ZOSIA BALISZEWSKA OF FASHION BLOG WARSAW LOOKS.

“To me, this encapsulates what Warsaw is now, both in terms of fashion and a general culture. We have big aspirations, but we’ve not forgotten where we came from.”

I leave Olga and head to Cuda na Kiju (ul. Nowy Świat 6/12), Warsaw’s first craft beer bar. It is here, perched at the bar underneath one of its huge factory lights, that I meet university students Paula Aleksiejuk and Zosia Baliszewska of Warsaw Looks (warsawlooks.com). These two fashionistas (who both look like they’ve stepped straight off the catwalk) have a passion for photography, and combined their two loves on their own Warsaw streetstyle fashion blog.

“We like to shoot around Saviour Square and Mokotowska Street, but the university campus and Praga area also have different, cool looks,” says Paula. “In recent years Warsaw has definitely become more stylish.”

The two tell me that 25 years ago, no-one wrote about Polish fashion – not even in Poland itself. Fashion was just not that important. “Now we’ve come right up to speed, and while trends and designers are still developing here, we’re no longer afraid of dressing individually.”

Warsaw Looks immediately reminds me of Parisian blog streetpeeper.com, although Paula and Zosia cite London fashion blogs horkruks.blogspot.co.uk and alicepoint.com

as their inspiration. Flicking through streetpeeper.com, you see the people are dressed immaculately: a Parisian woman in a Balenciaga crop top and Balenciaga black and white ruffled skirt; another in a pale pink Christopher Kane coat with white lace detailing. In contrast, the Varsovians on Warsaw Looks tend to look a little less groomed, but effortlessly cool.

They tend to wear a single stand-out piece: a fuchsia sequin top with laid-back skinny jeans and trainers, or a pair of green suede wraparound sandals with black shorts, a black blazer and jade green T-shirt. Here, the girls don’t say where the clothes are from, so it’s more

PHOTO BY WARSAWLOOKS.COM

er “We are no long afraid of dressing individually”

48 / WIZZ MAGAZINE

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Good morning, bonjour, dzień dobry Now Warsaw is Yours

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No.96524 - Uroda Polska 1pp.indd 1

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WARSAW

LEFT: BLACK: IT NEVER GOES OUT OF FASHION. IT’S HOW YOU WEAR IT THAT COUNTS. BOTTOM LEFT: MICHAŁ SZULC IN HIS NEW SHOWROOM. BELOW: PIECES FROM MICHAŁ’S LATEST COLLECTION.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WARSAWLOOKS.COM

r “Now we use ou own talent to make our own collections” about what the locals are wearing rather than who they’re wearing.

“We’re grown so rapidly and we’re catching up,” says young designer Michał Szulc (michalszulc.com) when I meet him at the launch of his new showroom. Michał was one of the first designers to be invited to show at Warsaw’s Polish Fashion Week when it started five years ago. “We are having a big fashion boom right now. We were just producers in the past – we have lots of factories here that were used to make garments for international designers – but now we can use our own talent to produce our very own collections. That’s an important change.”

Ilona Majer, who now runs MMC Studio (mmcstudio.pl), a designer collective with Rafał Michalak, is another rising star breathing new life into Warsaw’s thriving fashion scene. She tells me she’s excited about the national market, and is making steps to get her collections shown in London and Paris. We meet in her bright showroom.

“When Communism fell 25 years ago, we looked to the West for influence and guidance,” she says. “But now we want to see and wear Polish designers, go to Polish Fashion Week, see our new trends and then buy them. We want something that’s more specific to us and more unique.”

So, is Warsaw hipper than Paris? That statement, I think, is a bit too much – for now, anyway. Paula and Zosia from Warsaw Looks agree. “I think until recently, people were too afraid to wear fashionable clothes, like in Paris, but now it’s more relaxed and every day the city’s style gets better and develops.”

But, after meeting stylists, shop owners and designers who are immersed in the scene, I can see that it’s on the cusp of something very exciting. It’s not an established capital, such as Paris, London or Milan yet, but because of this, Warsaw has more opportunity to follow its own path. When I ask Michał Szulc what he thought about Warsaw being hipper than Paris, he gives me a bemused smile. “We’re not there just yet,” he says. “But change has now come and it will continue.”

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DUBAI

Come February, the “Ships of the Desert” better resemble speedboats as the Camel Racing Finals take place in Dubai, UAE. We meet the locals and discover an unusual side to the city, far away from the sparkle of its skyscrapers. Words by Stuart Turton

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he camel is grinning at me, showing off a huge row of tombstone teeth.

This is not something my mind can deal with at 5:30am.

“You see,” says Amir Al Wahab, who’s tapping the camel’s teeth with his knuckle.

“If the camel’s too young to race the teeth are long and firm, if they’re old enough they’re wider apart and shorter. In the old days, this is how we knew their age.”

Driving out to Dubai’s remote Al Marmoom racetrack, it never occurred to me that I’d spend the morning with my head inside a camel’s mouth, though here it seems a common preoccupation.

Everywhere I look, men in dishdashas (local dress) are touring the thoroughbreds, circling them as though inspecting a brand new sports car. They cluck appreciatively, stroking their rumps with obvious affection. If I were a camel, I’d be fetching my coat by now.

PHOTO BY GETTY

T

The camel races seem quite ramshackle, a little bit of history and tradition still clinging to Dubai’s coat-tails as it sprints towards the future My friend Amir is the race registrar, and it’s his job to ensure the animals competing in today’s races are the right age. Older male camels are stronger so they run later, after the ladies, who are generally smaller and nippier.

All of them have chips in their necks that hold their name, age, pedigree, owner details and a photo. Amir could just scan the chip and get whatever information he needs, but checking teeth is traditional and, unlike the rest of Dubai, tradition is everything at Al Marmoom.

Thanking Amir, I wander up the grandstand to find a seat. Capable of holding 600 people, it’s pretty empty this morning, with half a dozen trainers standing in groups, smoking

and chatting, laughing uproariously. On the edges of the track, around 20 SUVs are parked and waiting, their drivers sat on the bonnets with cloths across their mouths, staring at the long expanse of desert beyond us.

The entire thing seems quite ramshackle, a little bit of history clinging to Dubai’s coat-tails as it sprints towards the future. And then the camels are led to the starting gates. Riding them are small robot jockeys; a box and a mechanical whip in the trainer’s colours.

The excitement’s palpable as the owners crowd the barriers, the SUVs lining up alongside the track. The starter’s pistol cracks, the gates leap

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DUBAI

up and the camels… well, amble out. Racing camels can hit 40km/hour, but this lot are moving with a grudging grace, more a procession than a race.

This seems to have provoked mild hysteria with the owners in the cars. They’re racing alongside the track, the owners hanging out of the windows with their robot remote controls, screaming at their camels to go faster. Horns beep constantly as the cars switch places depending on which camel has nudged ahead, and before long they’re gone, disappearing up the track in a shroud of sand and glinting metal.

“Are you enjoying the race?” asks an Emirati trainer called Ahmed, who’s wandered over with Amir. I ask him about the robots, and he tells me that until 2002 the camels were ridden by children. “When the law banned their use, the robots were invented,” he says. “A lot of people thought it was the end, but the camels are faster with the robots riding them.”

Camel racing has been going on for thousands of years, ever since the nomadic tribes moved in convoys across the desert As the race continues on a big screen, Ahmed tells me that camel racing has been going on in Dubai for thousands of years, when nomadic tribes moved in convoys across the desert. In those days, camels were life. They carried food, water and tents, while their milk fed the tribe’s children. They were traded for supplies or to settle disputes. Emiratis aren’t just admirers of camels, they’re grateful to them.

Even now, in the days of skyscrapers and shopping malls, there’s a prestige attached to camel ownership. Many of the top racing

camels are owned by the UAE royal families, who sponsor a beauty contest every December, with the four-legged dazzlers rated on fi rmness of ear, straightness of leg and the size of their toe cleft. Sales come to millions of dollars.

As we’re talking, the camels lope into view once more. The winner comes in a couple of lengths ahead of everybody else, followed by the pack and then, much further back, three dawdling camels cheerfully ignoring the frantic whipping of their robot jockeys.

“One of those is mine,” says Ahmed, proud as a new-born father despite the slightly embarrassing nature of his defeat.

Apologising, he runs off towards the track to join with the other owners who are leaping the barrier to catch hold of their runaway animals.

Watching him, I can’t resist a huge smile.

Before today, I thought Dubai was just metal and glass. I didn’t realise it had a heart, or that it would take a camel to set it beating. dcrc.ae

WIZZ MAGAZINE / 57

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DUBAI

Y H W S N O S A E R 10 O T O G D L U O H S YOU TÂRGU MURES e martin Words by Clair

the team at WIZZ When Wizz Air asked le-known city of litt the magazine to visit hesitate. It’s not often Târgu Mureș we didn’t ture to Romania to ven to we get the chance thing about, let alone see a city we know no to pronounce! After a w ho e one we’re not sur r diction lesson from ou little research (and a ced “Teergu un no pro it’s – gue Romanian collea ar that this city was Muresh”), it became cle riguing weekend break int an going to make for ked oked our flights, pac destination. So we bo to fi nd on ssi mi a on off ted our bags and jet in the city that is often the top 10 things to do nsylvania”.

Tra to ay called “the gatew

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TA RG U M U R E S

1.The medieval fortress l fortress The pentagon-shaped medieva and is a eș, Mur u Târg sits proudly above d Orthodox gran the from k wal nute -mi two an Báthory Cathedral. In 1492, Prince Stef nd the arou t buil be to le cast a ered ord but most rch, chu and ry Franciscan monaste k to the 17th bac s date y toda see you t of wha s of it were century. When we visited, part ld still go cou you but ion, orat rest er und six) just off (of part ram t inside via the firs Papiu National Al. the to r nea are, Squ y nád Ber (pictured rch chu an cisc College. The Fran n for visitors. ope and ding stan still is t) righ

Neaga Ahbrei

e 2.The Peopl

reș before ârgu Mu ily on T t u o b a v ing much lying hea at Not know knew we’d be re us th io x n e a w re t, . We we we wen as we the locals t as soon tips from peak English, bu ndly folk who ie ld s few wou found plenty of fr round – from e sa u w , w d o e h d s -by to lan way to ir e m passers the th o t fr u , s e s s e e went o re s it u must ers to wa bars. “Yo r visit [leisure ’s taxi driv y it c e in th summe revellers d in the man alace, an ark,” said police P l re u lt u P C medieva d e n e h k T e “ ] We y d above). h re complex ra tu o L ic anto hbrei (p ,” said Sz zahotel.ro).

Neaga A pressive pla im ( V is s a s z fortre Hotel Pla l, te o h r from ou

3.The traditional food

, head left along Strada Just off Piata Trandafirlor Tempo (tempo.ro), nd fi ’ll Călăraşilor and you , modern a restaurant serving elegant eived numerous rec We e. sin Transylvanian cui po but sadly, when recommendations for Tem for a private party. ked boo we turned up, it was t door, Laci Csarda, But its sister restaurant nex but beautifully ple sim ate had room. Here we Chicken paprika and prepared regional cuisine. ngarian heritage Hu ’s city the goulash recalled luded ciorbă (sour while Romanian dishes inc bage) and papanasi cab ffed soups), sarmale (stu am and fruit). (doughnuts with sour cre

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4.The architecture (see tip 9) e Palace of Culture The curator at th 20th century, to the turn of the told us that prior l town. It cia in a small, prov Târgu Mureș was me mayor ca be y ád rn Be örgy wasn’t until Dr Gy Most of y. cit nt came a vibra in 1902 that it be this and er aft d cte tru ns co its buildings were rg-style coloured, Habsbu the flamboyantly hio green tac pis , ge an or bet buildings (in sher Our ul. tif au are simply be and bright pink) ey Friars Gr w llo -ye on e lem favourites were th 07, with Hall, built 1906-19 Church, the Town and the r, we to ck clo d an its jade green tiles rsity.

Petru Maior Unive cornflower blue

5.Small

but perf ectly fo rmed

It ’s eas y aroun to orientate d TM. At one yourself and Trand end of n af the Pia avigate old Cit i rilor, the m ta ain str y Hall , the P eet, yo Mureș alac u’ll M as New all (with int e of Culture f i nd the e and th rnatio Yorker e na than a a n d Ad fi idas); l brands suc h at the the gra ve-minute w other, alk aw nd but less ay, you (with in moder ’ll n c stretch redibly deta Orthodox C f i nd athedr iled, c ing acr al o oss the ceiling lourfu l mura ). in ls sights A good man ternal wall sa ar y rest ar e found with of Târgu Mu nd r e ș’ b e e a sho in this st rt stro ll away stretch, and . the

6.the nightlif e

For a town of just 150,0 00 has a surpri singly lively people, Târgu Mureș nightlife. W the evenin g at e kicked off tucked away Zanza (52 Piata Trand afi rilor), through an archway off main street . Lounging the in the black chairs, we , leather selected Ber genbier fro menu of Ro m its manian bee rs, wines, sp snacks. Nex irits and t we went to the Old Cit Pub at no. y Café and 43 (or OCP, as the loca With excell ls call it). ent cockta ils (but stra Romanian ngely, no beers), it ’s where TM’s before hea hipsters go ding down stairs to th a club that e Old City P starts to ho ub, t up from 11 pm.

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TA RG U M U R E S

helping!)

7.The FOOD (second eir

of th cals are proud Târgu Mureș lo ck us was the ru st at wh t , bu regional cuisine ng from fresh hi yt here – ever variety of food -the-wall ilk from hole-in pretzels and m r – say hi ilo fir ata Tranda Petru (at 24 Pi to creamy ), ht rig e ov ab ki, to our friend Gi ad topped re tb fla e homemad hummous and wa th tering e OCP, and mou with ham at th nt Dona (43 ra au st bakery. Re cakes at every our favourite ilor) was one of Piata Trandafir dished ry te ea is relaxed restaurants. Th a, pizza, st pa , es êp cr , od up Romanian fo astic gelato. ed fish and fant stir-fries, grill

culture 9.The palace of eș’ beautiful Palace

s Târgu Mur l. We You can’t mis e old City Hal ght next to th ri ty , ci re e ltu th Cu to of e in n we first drov ica tiles ol aj m y spotted it whe na ol d and white Zs 100 years ago centre, its re ilt e sunlight. Bu th in g mayor Dr gleamin Mureș’ hero u rg Tâ of r de or the finest e th of r e de on un e building is th y, ád . Our rn Be Györg y Transylvania art nouveau in room of ng es lo pl a , am ex irrors the Hall of M u’ll find six yo e er favourite was H . rs l netian mirro depicting loca with huge Ve ass windows gl n d Sa ne 15 ai 19 st e e intricat shown at th were due to be e out. ey ok Th br s. ar le w ta lk re fo befo ld Exhibition, Francisco Wor

8.Târgu Mures zoo Our taxi driver from the airpor t didn’t speak much English, but he understo od our request for a top tip fo r TM – and luck ily, the word ‘zoo’ doesn’t ne ed translating.

Just 2km north of the town (w e took a taxi fo r RON10, abou €2), Târgu Mur t eș Zoo is the se cond largest in Romania. Set on a hill in Padure a Mare forest, its location mea ns the animals – elephants, tigers, bears, m onkeys, lions, deer and more have plenty of – room to roam around. When visited, it had we just been snow ing, which mad the experience e even more mag ical. Tickets ar RON 5 (€1). zo e otirgumures.ro

10.weekend park It was hard for us to believe in temperatures of -5⁰C (we nipped into café after café for warming hot chocolates), but in the summer, the mercury can reach 40⁰C in this par t of Romania. That’s when it’s time to head to Muresul, the sports and entertainment comple x (better known as Weekend Park), 2.5km nor th of the city. This 250-acre spot hugging the Mures River has everything sun-seeking hol idaymakers could want: swimming pools, ma keshift beaches, alfresco bowling, waterspor ts on the river, tennis courts and beach vol leyball. An excuse to return again in the summe r!

62 / WIZZ MAGAZINE

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YOUR SHOPPING DESTINATION IN TARGU MURES ROMANIA, Targu Mures, Gheorghe Doja Street, No.243 | www.promenadamallmures.ro

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E M RO E H T N O

P A CH

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If yo u do n't have th e bu dg et of a Ro ma n Em pe ro r, th e Ita lia n ca pit al may ap pe ar da un tin g. Fe ar no t, cit ize n! Yo u to o ca n en joy wi ne , foo d an d ar t like roya lty wi th ou t br ea kin g th e ba nk .

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PHOTOS BY GETTY, CORBIS

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ROME

PREVIOUS PAGE: THE CHURCH OF SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI. LEFT: THE PANTHEON IS ONE OF ROME’S OLDEST AND BEST PRESERVED BUILDINGS. BELOW: ENTRANCE TO THE PALAZZO FARNESE IS JUST €5.

ith its cobblestoned streets and ancient ruins, designer stores and cosy wine bars, Rome has a reputation for stealing its visitors’ hearts – and their money. Last year, newspapers around the world even documented how a family of four from the UK found it had to pay €64 for a round of gelati while holidaying in Rome.

But, if you know where to go, you needn’t spend a small fortune in the Eternal City.

Let’s start with an obvious yet often forgotten fact – Rome is an outdoor museum.

A free outdoor museum. You can stroll between ancient tombs on the 2,300-year-old Appian Way, gawk at the Pantheon, and climb the Spanish Steps, all gratis. (At the Trevi Fountain, however, resist paying homage to Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita with a dip in the water; fines for a frolic run up to €500!).

Even aside from the piazzas, ruins and fountains, Rome sightseeing can come cheap.

Yes, the Vatican museums, with their frescoes

by Raphael and Michelangelo and galleries of ancient statues, are €16 to enter (or €8 for

PHOTOS BY GETTY

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students with I.D.). But the Palazzo Farnese, whose ceiling frescoes are rivalled in Rome only by the Sistine Chapel, is a mere snip at just €5. The Villa Farnesina, with its stunning, floor-to-ceiling Raphael frescoes, is €6.

And a joint ticket to the galleries at Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini – boasting works by Bernini, Caravaggio, and Titian – will only set you back €9. Another steal? The €7 National Roman Museum ticket, which includes entrance to four museums, including the Palazzo Massimo, one of the finest archaeological museums in Italy.

For free art, meanwhile, head to Rome’s churches; unlike in some other European cities, you pay nothing to enter. Outside of Italy, a single painting by bad-boy Baroque painter Caravaggio might be the focal point of a museum, but in Rome, no less than six hang in churches, including the dramatic canvases that launched his career at the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi (other Caravaggios grace the churches of Santa Maria del Popolo and Sant’Agostino). Meanwhile, the

Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria hosts a blockbuster by Baroque sculptor Bernini, the hair-raising and – some say inappropriately – impassioned Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. And you don’t have to go all the way to Florence to see a major Michelangelo sculpture either; his larger-than-life Moses is in the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli, near the Roman Forum.

Want to grab some souvenirs? Sure, you could scoop up an imported T-shirt or snow globe. Better, though, to buy a made-inItaly memento that you’ll actually use. We especially like the independent, surprisingly well-priced artisan boutiques in the rione (neighbourhood) Monti. On Via Urbana,

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ROME

LEFT: THE TREVI FOUNTAIN WAS IMMORTALISED IN LA DOLCE VITA. BELOW: GET YOUR PIZZA FROM AN AUTHENTIC PIZZERIA FOR AS LITTLE AS €10.

Resist paying homage to Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita with a dip in the Trevi Fountain; fines for a frolic run up to €500 Silice’s Anna Preziosi handcrafts glass into exquisite, contemporary shapes; it is only €15 for an ashtray. At Le Nou on via del Boschetto, hand-sewn blouses can be as little as €25, and altered to fit your frame. On most Saturdays and Sundays, Mercato Monti at Via Leonina hosts a rotating list of vendors with handmade or vintage goods (including retro sunglasses and handmade stationery) at great prices.

Eating well on a budget can be trickier. The key, of course, is to eat like a local. A few general rules of thumb: steer clear of restaurants with

touts standing outside to entice passers-by, any that have pictures on the menu, or are smack-bang on piazzas. ‘Tourist menus’ might seem like a good deal, but the food tends to be microwaved and extras aren’t always included.

And since few authentic restaurants charge servizio (service), walk away from spots that say they charge 10 or 15% service – but also avoid places that proclaim “No service charge!”.

Luckily, there are some excellent places in the centre that fit the bill. Restaurants where you can easily enjoy a course or two, plus table wine, for less than €25 include Da Francesco, Hostaria Romana, and Armando al Pantheon.

To eat even more cheaply, try a pizzeria, where individual pies cost less than €10 and make for a filling, delicious dinner; in the centre, we especially like Li Rioni (near the Colosseum) and La Montecarlo (near Piazza Navona).

Meanwhile, one wily way to combine food and drink is aperitivo, a northern Italian tradition that involves paying a flat amount

for a glass of wine and access to a buffet from about 6pm to 8pm. Head to Fluid, a funky bar near Piazza Navona, where snacks might range from arugula and bresaola salad to arancini (fried rice balls), all complimentary with your €8 cocktail. At Oasi della Birra in Testaccio, €10 gets you a glass of wine and access to a buffet with traditional dishes, like prosciutto and pasta. Or there’s Trastevere’s Freni e Frizioni, a hit with students and visitors, where aperitivo features couscous, salads, and fresh fruit.

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Da Massimo Массимо приветствует вас в Ciao Ciao Trattoria Традиционный итальянский ресторан. Немного прикосновение Итали в сердце Будапешта!

Massimo welcomes You in Ciao Ciao Trattoria traditional italian restaurant.

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16/01/2014 16:14

ROME

PHOTO BY ALAMY

BY ROME S R NUMBE

1

Rome is 2,766 years old, going by its traditional birthday of 21 April, 753 B.C. (Archaeologists think that the first settlers arrived on Rome’s Palatine hill most probably around the 8th century B.C.).

2

The Appian Way was built in 312 B.C. Rent a bicycle (from the Tourist Information Point at Via Appia Antica 58) and cycle down its ancient paving stones for just €3 an hour.

3

In 2011 5,966,200 foreign tourists visited Rome.

4

Rome’s largest park, the Villa Doria Pamphilj, measures 180 hectares and is free to enter. It includes a 17th-century villa, ancient aqueduct, pond, ice rink, and polo field.

5

In 2012, 5,201,268 people entered the Colosseum, more than any other site in Italy, generating revenue of €37.42m.

6

In December, a €25m renovation began on the Colosseum and is expected to take three years.

7

With 49 properties, Italy has more sights inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage list than any other country. They include the Holy See territory of the Vatican City and historic centre of Rome.

8

Some 20,000 people per day enter the Sistine Chapel in high season.

9

Last year 6,438,400 visitors entered the Pantheon. It is free to enter.

10

Rome has more than 35 churches that were founded before 500 AD. They are free to enter.

ABOVE: PALAZZO MASSIMO IS ONE OF THE TOP ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUMS IN ITALY.

Also of benefit to hungry travellers is the brunch buffet. We suggest Porto Fluviale, which opened in the hip Ostiense neighbourhood last year. It has a choice of 50 high-quality Italian dishes at lunchtime, from salads to pastas to pies, and costs €10 on weekdays and €15 on weekends. Other good bets include Salotto 42, Panella, and Doppiozero, all offering brunch buffets for less than €20.

The best meal deal in the city, though, is the hole-in-the-wall pasta shop (called ‘Pastificio’) on Via della Croce, around the corner from the Spanish Steps. A heaped portion of home-cooked pasta sets you back just €4 between 1pm and 2pm on weekdays.

When it comes to hydrating, buy a bottle of water from a grocery store, which should cost less than 60 cents; refill it at any one of the 1,500 free nasoni, or water fountains, that are placed all over the city.

After dinner, seek out Rome’s budgetfriendly nightlife. Jazz bar Charity Café, in the hip rione of Monti, has live jazz and blues every night, plus – from 6pm to 9pm, Monday to Saturday – an all-youcan-eat aperitivo buffet that costs €10 and includes a glass of wine. At trendy clubs like Circolo degli Artisti, a funky spot that might feature anything from a live concert to a vintage market, you’ll often find free entrance if you arrive before a certain time (often 10pm or 11pm). Culture vultures, meanwhile, should watch out for the Grandi Eventi listed on Italy’s cultural ministry website (grandieventi.it); throughout the year, museums might offer complimentary late-night openings, concerts, or other cultural events. See? The Eternal City doesn’t have to be infernally expensive.

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PROMOT ION

ROMANIAN RETREATS Whether you’re a thrill-seeker, history buff or spa connoisseur, the country has a holiday just for you hat makes a holiday perfect for you?

History and culture? An adventure through the mountains? The warm waters of a relaxing spa retreat? Whatever it is, you’re sure to find it in Romania.

You can fly with Wizz Air to Craiova, where an extensive range of historical monuments and sites speak to its intrinsic role in the development of the country ever since antiquity. Or head to the snowy slopes of Wolvesland or the forested paths of Câmpulung Moldovenesc, where some of Europe’s most remarkable landscapes beckon you to explore the great outdoors.

Romania’s known for its many spa towns, where mineral springs and restorative mud can soothe aching limbs and are said to help patients recover from a wide range of afflictions. And there are no finer places to relax than in the top-notch spa complexes in Bazna, Buziaș, Techirghiol or Amara, where tranquil settings and first-rate facilities combine to offer total relaxation for body and mind.

W

Craiova There aren’t many cities that can compete with the history of Craiova, the site of which was first occupied by the Geto-Dacian town of Pelendava as early as 400BC. The settlement is even mentioned on the Tabula Peutingeriana – the only surviving map of the Roman Empire road network.

The area was permanently inhabited through to the Middle Ages, when Craiova is documented in a 1475 charter issued by Prince Basarab Laiotă. Shortly before, one of the most important battles in Romanian history, the Battle of Rovine, was contested close by, between the Ottomans and a victorious army led by Mircea the Elder.

At the end of the 15th century, Craiova had established itself as a true economic power, and the support of the region’s wealthy landowners became critical for the country’s rulers to maintain their grip on the throne. Under Michael the Brave, the city continued to grow in military and political importance, until he was enthroned as the first leader of a united country.

In the centuries that followed, Craiova featured heavily in many events that remain lodged in the Romanian consciousness.

For a short period in the early 1770s, war in Bucharest meant the city was the acting capital of the country. In 1817, the famous outlaw Iancu Jianu terrorised the region’s rich until he was finally caught and tossed into the salt pits.

In 1821, Craiova stood as one behind Tudor Vladimirescu, and then, during the revolution of 1848, was the birthplace of the Naţionalul newspaper. Later, the city was the first in the country to have an electricity supply generated by an internal combustion engine.

In recent years, Craiova has been renowned for its legal and medical expertise, and can point to a long line of prestigious publications and influential individuals that have put it at the heart of each field. Declared a municipality in 1968, and with a population of 300,000, the city remains the spiritual and cultural centre of the Olt region to this day.

+40 251 416 235, primariacraiova.ro

HISTORY

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PROMOT ION

Bazna RE TREAT

Featuring a unique combination of therapeutic mud and mineral waters, the Bazna health and spa resort is the perfect place for specialist treatments such as galvanic baths, hydrotherapy, kinetotherapy, mineral water baths and mud applications. The curative element is the local Bazna salt, rich in iodine and bromine, which produces excellent results in the treatment of rheumatic, gynaecological and nervous system afflictions.

Established in 1842 when a team of doctors and chemists from Vienna completed a study on the effects of the Bazna salt and the local climate, the resort is located a stone’s throw away from Medias, in the heart of Transylvania. The area is home to a diverse range of accommodation options – from thermal complexes to authentic boarding houses for guests who wish to experience genuine hospitality. Outdoor activities include archery, biking, survival training, fire camps and the opportunity to immerse yourself in local traditions, while Bazna is also the ideal starting point from which to visit the region’s fortified churches and Medieval towns, or just to unwind and relax in an amazing natural environment.

comunabazna.ro, bazna.eu

Buzias, The charming balneal resort Buziaș – located 34km from Timișoara and 25km from Lugoj – was founded in 1811, when Dr Gheorghe Ciocarlan highlighted the therapeutic properties of the local mineral waters.

It quickly grew in stature as a leading health resort with its importance acknowledged by the visit of Emperor Franz Josef of Austria and his heir Prince Franz Ferdinand in September 1898. And today, tourists continue to flock to the town in search of relief from a wide range of ailments.

Buziaș’s waters are as varied as they are restorative – they include carbonated water, bicarbonate water, chlorinated water, bromine-iodine water, sodium water, calcium water, magnesium water, ferrugineous water, thermal water and hypotonic water – all of which are used in the treatment of such conditions as cardiovascular system diseases, central nervous system disorders, asthenic neurosis, digestive tract disorders, biliary tract diseases that require diuresis cures, and metabolism and nutrition disorders.

RE TREAT

primariabuzias.ro primbuzias@yahoo.com

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PROMOT ION

ADVENTURE

Câmpulung Moldovenesc Surrounded by forested peaks and guarded by the natural fortresses of Mount Rarau and Obcinile Bukovinei, the town of Câmpulung Moldovenesc spreads along the shores of the Moldova river and invites travellers to explore the tranquillity of its rooms and the shady paths that lead from the depths of the valley to the heights of the mountains.

Characterised by its leafy forests and quick waters, the region exhibits the full glory of nature in its natural geological landscapes, flora and forest parks.

In town, too, you will find a wide array of interesting tourist attractions, not least the Woodcraft Museum, which shows off the impressive endeavour and creativity of Câmpulung Moldovenesc residents. The only museum of its kind in the country, its private collections include Ion Gramada’s ethnographic art collection and the ‘Ion Tugui’ wooden spoon collection.

campulungmoldovenesc.ro primaria@campulungmoldovenesc.ro +40 230 314 425; +40 230 314 725

Techirghiol Sat on the shore of the 12km2 Lake Techirghiol, just 3km from the Black Sea and 15km from Constanţa, the town of Techirghiol benefits from a unique combination of favourable natural conditions that have attracted visitors since 1899.

As well as a mild climate with marine influences – characterised by a mean annual temperature of 11°C – Techirghiol is famous for its salt waters and sapropelic mud, which are said to have therapeutic properties when dealing with a diverse range of ailments. This has contributed to the popularity of the Techirghiol Sanitorium, which, since opening, has treated over half a million Romanians suffering from over 40 diseases.

The resort features five treatment facilities, spa areas for adults and another for children with disabilities and outdoor sessions that include bathing in the lake.

The town is also known for the impressive Monastery of St Mary. Home to a bronze statue of Saint Pantelimon that has become a symbol for miraculous healings, the monastery has become a noted place of pilgrimage for Romanian Orthodox Christians.

RE TREAT

primariatechirghiol.ro

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PROMOT ION

ADVENTURE

Wolvesland – Straja Lupeni With nine immaculate slopes extending over a total of 20km – including Romania’s longest ski run, at 8.3km – Wolvesland is the largest mountain resort in the country.

Plus, it’s perfectly set up to receive large numbers of tourists from Romania and overseas, thanks to an enormous investment last year in new chairlifts and a modern cable car that puts the resort on a par with the finest ski retreats on the continent.

Away from the slopes, these first-class facilities are equally matched by an enviable variety of accommodation options that cater for any type of guest, including families and young people. Hotels, villas and hostels are all open close by, as are a great selection of authentic restaurants serving local and traditional fare.

A range of entertainment facilities provide plenty to do when skiing finishes for the day; or you can just relax and enjoy the intimate and welcoming atmosphere than exists throughout the entire resort.

facebook.com/wolvesland, wolvesland.ro skistraja.ro, cabana-edelweiss.ro

Amara A place where the most demanding tourist can enjoy special moments of relaxation and the highest standards of spa treatment, Amara boasts unique natural qualities in the healing water and mud of Lake Amara. Just 7km from Slobozia and 130km from Bucharest, the variety of spa centres offer everything from mud and hydrotherapy to medical gymnastics and both warm and cold baths, while a selection of beaches and swimming facilities provide just a few of the many places in which to spend your free time.

The resort features two tourist complexes open all year round: Amara Balneary Complex Park and the Ialomita Hotel Complex. The former features both a three- and four-star hotel, accommodating 380 people in total, as well as three restaurants and ‘Mircesti’ beach. Meanwhile, the latter can sleep 480 people in its three-star hotel, and boasts a large restaurant, conference room, the Blue Lagoon wellness centre, a multifunctional sports field and ‘Splendid’ beach.

“Dear tourists, visit us and you will find here, in the heart of Baragan, a realm of quietness and the familiar warmth that you need,” says Amara mayor Victor Moraru.

RE TREAT

primaria-amara.ro, amara-parc.ro, hotelialomita.ro

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PROMOT ION

BEAUTIFUL BULGARIA Whether your passion is history, culture or outdoor pursuits, there’s a Bulgarian city that’s sure to satisfy

Troyan This pleasant mountain city – well known as a handicraft and tourist centre – is situated on the northern slopes of Central Stara Planina, 165km from Sofia. Although only established as a town 146 years ago, recent archeological research has proven that it was inhabited since Antiquity, and remnants of the Roman fortress Sostra and the Via Traiana road can still be seen close by. In more recent times, Troyan was only the third city to have electricity in Bulgaria, with the first electric light bulbs installed in 1911.

Troyan Balkan is part of the Central Balkan National Park, which has become a popular tourist destination thanks to its interesting rock formations, waterfalls, mineral springs and beautiful landscapes. The region is also home to the Troyan Monastery – the third-largest in the country – which has housed one of the Bulgarian Orthodoxy’s holiest icons, the Three-Handed Virgin, since the 17th century. In 1892, the Troyan plum brandy produced here received an international award in Anvers, Belgium and, to this day, the production of this premium spirit (rakia) and traditional pottery remains part of the local culture and a symbol of the city.

troyan.bg

Kazanlak If you are still wondering where to go in May or June, then look no further than Kazanlak. At this time of year, this city is filled with the unique aroma of rose oil, vibrant greenery and surrounded by the mysteries of the Thracian civilisation. The geographic centre of Bulgaria, it boasts an incredible harmony of ancient culture, history, tradition and modernity, guarded by the peaks of Stara Planina.

The oleaginous aromatic rose cultivated in the Valley of Roses has become a symbol of Bulgaria all around the world. The only rose museum in the Balkans is located here, holding more than 10,000 items related to rose production, while guests from across the planet will head to Kazanlak for the 111-year-old Rose Festival from 9 May to 8 June.

The Thracian Tomb of Kazanlak, included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites, is acknowledged as a masterpiece of antiquity thanks to its outstanding frescoes. Nearby, visitors will find the ancient capital of Seuthopolis and the Valley of the Kings, where for centuries Thracian tombs and temples have preserved such artefacts as the golden mask of King Teres and the bronze head and golden wreath of King Seuthus III.

kazanlak.bg

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PROMOT ION

Vratsa-Mezdra-Roman Tourist Region This unique destination in northwest Bulgaria is a must for lovers of ancient art, mountaineering, cave exploration and cultural festivals.

Chief among its attractions is Vratsa’s Regional History Museum, which contains the famous Rogozen Thracian silver treasure, Europe’s oldest preserved skeleton, a plate discovered in nearby Gradeshnitsa inscribed with one of the world’s first alphabets and the Zn Art Museum of Paper. Meanwhile, 70 centuries of history, from the Copper and Stone Age through to the Middle Ages, are contained within the walls of the Kaleto antique fortress in Mezdra.

The sheer cliffs of the Vratsata (‘The Gate’) mountain pass entice hordes of international climbers, while the Ledenica cave is widely known for its fascinating rock formations. Tourists can let loose on the ski slopes near Parshevitsa Hut, as well as numerous eco-paths and hiking trails. An amusement park will also be opened soon, built with European funding.

vratza.bg, mezdra.bg, roman-bg.com

Sliven “Above all is the azure matte radiance of the Blue Stones, which gives the true tint of our days – from the first, to the last,” wrote Konstantin Konstantinov of the famous rocky massif for which Sliven is best known.

“The city has many symbols. Probably the most notable among Bulgarians are the Blue Stones,” adds poet Damyan Damyanov. “After a spring rain, when the air is crisp and sunny, they glow in violet colour above the town; navy blue on a sultry summer day. During autumn, they appear frowning, grey and peculiarly solid, when the legendary wind hunts the clouds up and over them. Like white herds, the clouds overflow the mountain and run down in a huge waterfall.”

The Blue Stones and their associated national park, with its fresh air and mineral springs, have become a hotbed for a wide range of leisure opportunities. They form just part of the stunning natural environment found in the region, which, in combination with a variety of historical and cultural monuments, helps Sliven distinguish itself as an inviting destination for both traditional and alternative tourism.

sliven.bg

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PROMOT ION

SPOTLIGHT ON SOFIA With vibrant restaurants, bars, hotels and close proximity to some of Eastern Europe’s best ski resorts, the Bulgarian capital is an exciting holiday destination

Te Quiero

Esterhasi Bar

In recent years, Spanish cuisine has been on top of the world, with three of its restaurants currently ranking among the San Pellegrino top 10. It’s known for such irresistible dishes as paella, fideuà and jamón ibérico – and now these can be enjoyed in Sofia, in the sublime Te Quiero, where all the food is freshly prepared in an open-air kitchen using authentic ingredients imported directly from Spain, and accompanied by an exquisite wine list.

The cool place in town. Combining modern interiors with stylish cuisine and a location just steps away from all the historical sights, Esterhasi Bar welcomes guests with a friendly atmosphere and a cup of coffee, fresh fruit juices, healthy meals and exquisite desserts. The interior is all about being comfortable among the dynamics of the city, while the bar features an exclusive selection of alcoholic drinks, extensive wine list and great music.

56A Bulgaria Blvd, Sofia +359 888 04 04 04, tequiero.bg

21 Tzar Osvoboditel Blvd, Sofia +359 884 441 441, esterhasi.com

Raffy Bar&Gelato

Raffy Terrace Bar

Thanks to its great location on the city’s thriving main street, affordable pricing and the best drinks and cocktails around, Raffy Bar&Gelato is becoming one of Sofia’s favourite hotspots. And it is no less popular during daylight hours, when a sophisticated atmosphere plays host to a delectable selection of handmade ice-creams, desserts, pizzas and a range of meat and vegetable dishes, all freshly prepared in the venue’s 24-hour kitchen.

Totally renovated with an updated modern interior and sound system that reflects world club trends, Raffy Terrace Bar has established itself as one of the city’s most cherished nightlife spots. This has created a buzz that continues to attract hordes of hip locals and tourists every evening, where they are dazzled by a fantastic variety of music and live performances that differ in style every day – for the full listings, check out the Raffy Terrace Bar Facebook page.

11 Angel Kanchev St, Sofia, +359 895 51 50 45 18B Vitosha Blvd, Sofia, +359 895 51 50 41

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2nd floor, 18B Vitosha Blvd, Sofia, +359 892 21 85 88

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PROMOT ION

Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel Situated in the centre of Sofia, at the foot of Vitosha Mountain, Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel’s exquisite décor and elegance set it apart from the rest of the city’s accommodation options. Its close proximity to many of Sofia’s shopping and historical attractions makes it convenient for those visiting the city for leisure, while business travellers are likely to appreciate the accessibility of the main commercial, financial and administrative buildings nearby. Plus, Sofia airport is just 20 minutes away by car.

The hotel offers 31 non-smoking rooms, each of which comes with its own unique layout and free Wi-Fi access.

The immaculate interior – the work of Italian architect Francesco Lucchese – explores the many dimensions of a floral motif and helps create a welcoming atmosphere that makes its guests feel at home.

The nearby fitness centre is the perfect spot in which to revive body and soul, while the restaurant’s open space extends onto Vitosha Boulevard – Sofia’s main street and one of its most fashionable meeting points.

21 Vitosha Blvd, Sofia, +359 2 810 0800, lesfleurshotel.com, reservation@lesfleurshotel.com

Before & After

Radina’s Way Hotel

Ever since the start of the 20th century, this unique venue – once the home of poet Mara Belcheva – has found itself at the heart of Sofia’s cultural scene. Today, it remains one of the city’s finest restaurants, with delicious food, precise service and excellent prices complementing a cosy atmosphere that retains the spirit of the past, while making it the perfect spot for social gatherings, business meetings and special events.

Just 90 minutes from Sofia, Radina’s Way Hotel offers cosy warm chocolate-coloured rooms, views of centuries-old forest and service that exceeds expectations, which all combine to create the ultimate holiday experience in Borovets ski resort. There’s an indoor heated pool, and sauna and massage treatments are available to soothe aching muscles after a long day’s skiing, while the hotel also boasts a conference hall and a restaurant serving the best in international and Bulgarian cuisine.

12 Hristo Belchev St, Sofia +359 2 981 6088, ba.club-cabaret.net

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Borovets, +359 885 355 031, radinasway.com

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D E S T I N AT I O N M A P

GLASGOW DONCASTER/SHEFFIELD LIVERPOOL LONDON LUTON

WELCOME EARLY SPRING IN ONE OF THESE CITIES 82 82 84 84 87 87 88 88

PARIS BEAUVAIS

B ELG R A D E BUCHAREST B U DA P E S T C H I S I N AU G DA N S K KYIV LO N D O N V I L N I US

ZARAGOZA BARCELONA GIRONA MADRID

BARCELONA PALMA DE MALLORCA

A L L D E S T I N AT I O N S 92 F RO M T H E A I R P O R T I N F O R M AT I O N , L IS T ED BY CO U N T RY

VALENCIA ALICANTE MALAGA

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TRONDHEIM

ÅLESUND

BERGEN TURKU OSLO SANDEFJORD TORP HAUGESUND STAVANGER

STOCKHOLM SKAVSTA

GOTHENBURG

KRISTIANSAND

RIGA

MOSCOW

MALMÖ VILNIUS

HAMBURG LÜBECK

GDANSK SZCZECIN

POZNAN

EINDHOVEN

WARSAW

DORTMUND LUBLIN

WROCŁAW

COLOGNE

KATOWICE

BRUSSELS

KYIV

PRAGUE

FRANKFURT HAHN

LVIV

BRNO

KOŠICE

MEMMINGEN/MUNICH WEST BASEL-MULHOUSE

DONETSK

VENICE TREVISO

TIMISOARA BELGRADE TUZLA

BOLOGNA

GRENOBLE

SPLIT

PISA

TARGU MURES

ARAD

MILAN-BERGAMO

BUCHAREST

CRAIOVA

PERUGIA

VARNA

SOFIA

ROME FIUMICINO

BOURGAS

KUTAISI

SKOPJE

ROME CIAMPINO ALGHERO

CHISINAU CLUJ-NAPOCA

LJUBLJANA

MILAN-MALPENSA

CUNEO/TURIN

DEBRECEN

BUDAPEST

VERONA

GENEVA

KHARKIV

NAPLES

BARI

THESSALONIKI

ISTANBUL

BAKU

CORFU

ANTALYA

ZAKYNTHOS CATANIA RHODES

MALTA

HERAKLION (CRETE)

LARNACA

TEL AVIV DUBAI

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SPRING GUIDES

BELGRADE Ser bia TOUCH DOWN Head downtown to the historical Kosancˇićev Venac neighbourhood for a glimpse of old Belgrade.

Wander the cobbled streets, visit the vast Kalemegdan Park and take in the Serb Orthodox Cathedral of St Michael the Archangel, the latter best visited on weekdays.

GET OUT Belgrade International Film Festival, or FEST, is a great opportunity to find out more about the fast-growing Yugoslav and Serbian film scene. You can also enjoy some of the season's best international movies. From 28 February – 9 March. fest.rs EAT WELL If seafood ceviche and South American food is your thing,

visit Toro Latin GastroBar, the new restaurant by worldrenowned chef Richard Sandoval. Toro has great-value small plates such as pomegranate and bacon guacamole or tuna tiradito, as well as larger dishes like the traditional Peruvian lomo saltado (steak stir fry).

Don’t miss the fantastic cocktail menu featuring drinks such as Pisco Infusion (a twist on the classic Pisco Sour) or the alcoholic Strawberry Lemonade.

2-4 Karadjordjeva Street, torobelgrade.com DRINK UP There’s still a nip in the air, so pop inside the cosy and centrally located Rakia Bar for a warming mulled brandy. This bar specialises in traditional Serbian

brandy – rakia – and has more than 130 types on offer!

5 Dobračina Street, rakiabar.com GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 96 for details.

Words by Laura Price

BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU ORDER...

The Serbian word for water is voda. Be careful when you order – a slip of the tongue and you might get something more alcoholic!

BUCHAREST Romania TOUCH DOWN Start at Unirii Square Park and join the free city walking tour to get your bearings. The tour leaves at 11:00 in front of the Clock Tower beside the fountains. Over three hours, guides will take you past some of Bucharest’s main

landmarks, such as the Ruins of Vlad’s Citadel, Revolution Square and the Old Town centre. guided-bucharest.com GET OUT On 20 February, fans of ’70s heavy metal will descend on Bucharest

for the Deep Purple gig at Sala Polivalenta. See if there are any tickets left at salapolivalenta.ro.

Alternatively, leave fast-paced city life to explore Romania’s countryside on a day trip to Transylvania. After driving through the Carpathian Mountains, head to Bran Castle in Brasov, thought to be the home of, and inspiration for, Bram Stoker’s Dracula. bran-castle.com

DRINK UP Sip and shop at Beros & Van Schaik Wine Traders. This wine shop/bar allows you to sit at their large table and enjoy a tipple of both local vinos and imports from further afield. With plenty of bottles open for tasting, it’s a popular place to hang out and is one of the few, wonderful non-smoking haunts in the city.

19 Covaci Street, bvswines.ro

EAT WELL If you’ve already had your fill of tasty local delicacies like sarmale (stuffed cabbage leaves), try something different at Balthazar.

This is one of the city’s classiest venues, serving up French-Asian dishes like Peking duck blinis and lamb rib chops served with bamboo and a cherry sauce.

Reservations are essential.

2 Dumbrava Rosie Street.

GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 96 for details.

Words by Julia Richardson

TALL TOWER The Pantelimon Art Tower is now open! This 37m-high water tower has an unusual exterior staircase from which you can see views of Pantelimon and the city.

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+40 728 115 950

Best Trans

+44 753 132 1481

is a multinational company which has branches in USA, Australia, Romania, UK, Hungary, Bulgaria, Serbia and Republic of Moldova.

UK USA

We are proud to say we have full coverage of these countries and DOOR 2 DOOR* services.

To keep you posted we created a website where you can find all the information concerning our activities in these areas! * http://besttrans.ro/en/termeni-si-conditii

HUNGARY

+1 800 664 5068 ext. 101

www.besttrans.ro office@besttrans.ro facebook.com/BestTransCourier

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ROMANIA

MOLDOVA BULGARIA SERBIA

AUSTRALIA +61 (0) 46 668 9930

Transport fees UK: 1.00 - 1.50 GBP/Kg. USA: 0.95 - 1.50 USD/lbs.

Australia: 2.00 - 4.50 AUD/Kg.

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SPRING GUIDES

BUDAPEST Hungary TOUCH DOWN Budapest’s skyline is so beautiful that it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. See it at its best at Gellért Hill, 235m above the city. Start your walk at Elizabeth Bridge or hike up from the famous Gellért Baths.

GET OUT The Hungarian National Gallery, at the former Royal Palace of Buda, offers a wealth of fine arts. Until 2 March, catch the exhibition to mark the centenary of Endre Rozsda’s birth, with more than 100 drawings, painting and photographs by the HungarianFrench surrealist artist. mng.hu EAT WELL What’s this – one of Budapest’s coolest new restaurants is

making you the waiter? Well, at Cybergastro, at 41 Nagymezo˝ Street, you don’t have to collect your order, but you do have to place it yourself. This futuristic restaurant has a computer built in to your table, allowing you to choose your dinner (and pay) by tapping on the screen. A bit of a gimmick, yes, but the food is good – try the Bacska chicken with rice, simple gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce and variety of pancakes. kaja.hu DRINK UP Fogasház (meaning House of Teeth) is one of Budapest original ruin pubs. With a charmingly shabby interior, film clubs, plus live performances and exhibitions, excellent pizzas (some say the best in Budapest), cocktails, DJs

and drinks at low prices, this really is one of the city’s coolest bars. fogashaz.hu GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 94 for details.

Words by Louisa Johnson

IN THIRD PLACE...

Budapest’s magnificent, neo-gothic Országháza is the third largest parliament in the world. It’s 96m high, took 17 years to complete and has 20km of stairs!

CHISINAU Moldova Parcul Catedralei and Gradina Publica Stefan cel Mare si Sfînt at its core are a great place to start exploring the city.

At Parcul Catedralei, don’t miss the colourful 24-hour flower market and the cathedral with its beautiful 19th-century bell tower.

GET OUT Moldovans are totally crazy about football, and Chisinau is no exception: this small city has three football stadiums! Both FC Zimbru and FC Dacia are in the Moldovan top flight league.

See FC Zimbru take on FC Olimpia Balti on Saturday 15 March at the Zimbru Stadium. zimbru.md EAT WELL In a city that’s famous for its wine, it is commonplace to dine in a restaurant where they pair your meal with some vino. For something different, head to the The Beer House, where you can sip some amber nectar with your grub. This restaurant/ brewery produces its own beer and offers an outstanding menu in a laid-back atmosphere.

Set on Constantin Negruzzi,

look out for its giant yellow sign. beerhouse.md DRINK UP Déjà Vu is everything you want a hip cocktail bar to be: popular and bustling, with an enticing drinks menu and attentive staff. Centrally located and a reasonably priced, it’s definitely worth giving this bar a shot.

67 Bucuresti Street GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 94 for details.

Words by Katie Buckley

WINDING WINE CELLAR Cricova, just outside Chisinau, is the second largest underground wine cellar in the world, with 120km of tunnels. cricova.md

PHOTO BY ALAMY

TOUCH DOWN With its thriving cosmopolitan atmosphere, you wouldn’t suspect that Chisinau was devastated by an earthquake in 1940, then subsequently razed to the ground during World War II. We say the city’s two main parks,

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SPRING GUIDES

GDANSK Poland TOUCH DOWN Shake off the winter cobwebs with a brisk walk along the beach at Sopot. Here you’ll find the longest wooden pier in Europe (at 515.5m), with stalls selling waffles heavily laden with cream and chocolate sauce, plus lovely small parks. Climb up to the top of the lighthouse (about 25m high) for fantastic views of the coast and Sopot skyline.

Admission is PLN5 (€1.20).

GET OUT What to do on a rainy day? We say you can’t beat hitting an indoor mall. The large Madison Shopping Gallery, at the edge of the Old Town, has more than 100 shops (including Nike, Vero Moda, New Look and Stradivarius), a gym, restaurants

and cafés and a playground for the kids. madison.gda.pl EAT WELL Unassuming Friends, named after the long-running US sitcom, is on Gdansk’s most popular dining street (ul. Piwna 3-4).

Low-key and welcoming, it’s ideal for a casual lunch or snack.

Dishes such as roast duck with cranberry sauce or pierogi with salmon and spinach get our vote. friends-gdansk.pl DRINK UP The people of Gdansk have been knocking back Goldwasser (literally translated as gold water) since 1598. A strong herbal liqueur, its unique selling point is its small flecks of real gold.

Try it for yourself at the bar at

Goldwasser restaurant, a stone’s throw from Gdansk’s famous wooden crane. goldwasser.pl GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 96 for details.

Words by Anna Walker

…AND RELAX Sopot has been one of Europe’s top health and spa resorts for the past 200 years. What are you waiting for? Book in that massage!

KYIV Ukraine

PHOTO BY ALAMY

TOUCH DOWN Kyiv is one of the greenest cities in Europe, and now we’re shrugging of winter’s chill, we say head to one of the Ukrainian capital’s parks. One of our favourites is the Fashion Park, opened in 2011

by Ukrainian designer Alexander

Sokolovsky, co-founder of Ukraine's Fashion Week. Among the foliage you’ll find unusual sculptures and installations. fashionpark.kiev.ua GET OUT For something a little bit sombre and educational, you could take

a day trip to Chernobyl. Tour Kiev (tourkiev.com) will take you right to the heart of this ghost town, destroyed by the explosion of its power plant reactor in April 1986 when the country was under Soviet rule. Alternatively, the Chornobyl Museum at 1 Khoryv Lane, Kyiv, provides a sensitive insight into the world’s greatest nuclear power plant disaster. chornobylmuseum.kiev.ua

DRINK UP The Ukrainian word for vodka is horilka – very similar to the word for burning. Originally distilled for nobility, vodka is now a mainstay of Kyiv’s nightlife; try Banka Bar for unusual vodka cocktails using served in milk bottles and jam jars. It’s worth checking out the food too – also served in glass jars. bankabar.com.ua

EAT WELL The food scene in Kyiv is exciting, constantly evolving and cosmopolitan. However, this does not mean that you should overlook traditional Ukrainian cuisine. Pervak is like a trip back in time (in a good way), with dishes such as veal in mustard sauce, meat dumplings and trout and potato pancakes.

(Rognidenska 2, pervak.kiev.ua)

GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 99 for details.

Words by Katie Buckley

GOING UNDERGROUND Arsenalnaya subway station, opened in 1960, is the deepest station in the world – reaching down an incredible 105m!

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LONDON United Kingdom TOUCH DOWN Carnaby Street is regaining its ’60s reputation for British cool. Made up of 13 streets, Carnaby has 52 indie boutiques and big-name fashion brands such as Diesel, American Apparel and Replay. Paul Smith and Benefit’s flagship store both opened here last year. carnaby.co.uk GET OUT We still can’t believe that Simon Cowell gave his blessing to a spoof musical of his phenomenally successful TV show, The X Factor, but he has. See I Can't Sing!, written by funnyman Harry Hill, from 27 February at the London Palladium. icantsingthemusical.com EAT WELL Named after a gentlemen’s club in the British Raj, new Gymkhana

(pictured right) brings the right décor to London’s Mayfair; a dark lacquered oak ceiling with fans, booths with marble tables and cut glass wall lamps from Jaipur. The cuisine has earned rave reviews; the Early Evening menus are great value. gymkhanalondon.com.

Found the South Place Hotel, Angler won a Michelin star last year for its innovative seafood dishes.

Start with the octopus carpaccio with squid and mango salad or the soft shellfish ravioli, and follow with roast brill with fennel purée or Loch Duart salmon with pancetta and braised curly kale. anglerrestaurant.com DRINK UP It might be hard to find Chinatown’s Speakeasy-style Experimental Cocktail Club (look for the man with a clipboard at the door), but

it’s worth it – ECC is an opulent townhouse serving London’s best cocktails. chinatownecc.com GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 99 for details.

Words by Claire Martin

LONDON BRIDGE The original London Bridge lasted 600 years – 355 of those allowed executed heads to be displayed on spikes! The bridge has since been replaced twice.

VILNIUS Lit huania TOUCH DOWN The Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania reopened in June last year after a 10-year reconstruction.

On the ground floor there are ancient ruins and centuries-old artefacts, and on the upper floors you can walk through resplendent

ceremonial halls. The stunning Basilica next door is well worth a visit too. valdovurumai.lt GET OUT Just outside Vilnius, surrounded by 27 acres of pine forests and next to a beautiful lake, is

the IDW Esperanza Resort (pictured below). Escape the hectic pace of life with tennis, swimming, horseriding, spa, and three lakefront restaurants. idwesperanzaresort.com EAT WELL On one of Vilnius’ busiest streets, Didzioji, you’ll find Kitchen. The décor here is simple and almost Scandinavian – think exposed brickwork, large wooden tables and cream accents – which lets the food (mostly Italian) do the talking. The pizzas, fresh pasta with prawns and fishcakes all got the thumbs up from us, as did the extensive wine list.

Didžioji 11 DRINK UP Stepping into Snekutis is quite an experience. This odd, wooden cabin crammed is full of knick-

knacks (with foreign bank notes hanging like bunting across the bar) and serves home-brewed beer from micro breweries across Lithuania. The beer is cheap, the food is great (if you’re hungry, try a Zeppelin – a giant sausagemeat-stuffed dumpling with a creamy sauce) and the roaring fire makes it very tempting to stay much longer than you intended. Šv. Stepono 8 GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 94 for details.

Words by Richard Watson

DID YOU KNOW? Užupis is a country within Vilnius! This self-declared state became independent on April Fool’s Day, 1997. It has a president, a national anthem and a flag, too.

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FRO M T H E A I R P O R T I N FO R M AT I O N

Azerbaijan Dialling Code: +994 Currency: Manat (AZN)

BAKU Bus 116 runs every 30 minutes, beginning from early in the morning until late at night.

The bus leaves from outside the airport building and terminates at S. Vurgun park on 28 May Street. The journey takes approximately 30-40 minutes. The fare is AZN30 (€0.30). Taxi Baku offers fixed fare prices to hotels throughout Baku Town.

Belgium Dialling Code: +32 Currency: Euro (€)

BRUSSELS In Brussels we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport (Charleroi South) and any address within Brussels. Tickets are €35.5 (€71 return).

Bosnia-Herzegovina Dialling Code: +387 Currency: Convertable Mark (BAM)

airport to Bourgas city centre. A taxi should cost around BGN20 (€10) and take 15 minutes.

SOFIA In Sofia we provide two types of airport transfers, a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address within Sofia city centre (Tickets: €4, €8 return) and a personalised WIZZ taxi service between the airport and any address within Sofia city centre. Price: €16 (€32 return) per car.

VARNA Varna airport is 8km outside of Varna city centre. Take bus 409 from the airport into Varna. Tickets cost BGN1 (€0.50). A taxi should cost around BGN15 (€7.50).

Croatia Dialling Code: +385 Currency: Kuna (HRK)

SPLIT The airport is 20km outside of Split. Take bus 37 from the airport to the city, which costs HRK20 (€2.60), or a shuttle bus for HRK30 (€4). A taxi costs HRK300 (€40).

Cyprus TUZLA The airport is 15km from Tuzla city centre. The easiest way to get there is with a taxi from the airport, for BAM20 (€10).

Bulgaria Dialling Code: +359 Currency: Lev (BGN)

BOURGAS You can take bus 15 from the

Dialling Code: +357 Currency: Euro (€)

LARNACA Limassol Airport is just 8km outside of Larnaca city. The Limassol Airport Express takes you to the centre of Larnaca. Tickets cost €9 for adults; €4 for children. A taxi should cost around €10-12.

The journey takes approximately 40 minutes.

Czech Republic Dialling Code: +420 Currency: Koruna (CZK)

BRNO Buses 76 and 89 go to Brno’s bus station. Tickets: CZK25 (€1). A taxi is around CZK300 (€11.50).

PRAGUE In Prague we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address in the city centre, a distance of 17km.

Tickets: €10.50 (€21 return).

Germany Dialling Code: +49 Currency: Euro (€)

COLOGNE Line 13 S-Bahn trains leave for Cologne every 20 minutes. Tickets: €2.60.

A taxi costs about €30.

DORTMUND The Airport Express bus connects to the Hauptbahnhof (Dortmund’s main station) in 25 minutes; tickets cost €7. A taxi costs about €22.

Finland Dialling Code: +358 Currency: Euro (€)

TURKU Take bus 1 to the town centre.

Tickets: €2.50. A taxi is €20.

France Dialling Code: +33 Currency: Euro (€)

GRENOBLE Catch the Altitude bus from Grenoble Isère to the city. Tickets: €12.50 single. A taxi is €80.

PARIS In Paris we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address within Paris city centre, around 80km away.

Tickets: €31 (€62 return).

Georgia Dialling Code: +995 Currency: Lari (GEL)

KUTAISI A taxi to the city centre, 14km away, costs GEL25 (€11.40).

FRANKFURT HAHN Buses to Frankfurt’s main train station leave from outside Terminal 2. Tickets cost €14.

HAMBURG LÜBECK A shuttle bus to Hamburg’s main station meets every flight. You can find it outside Arrivals. It’s a 55-minute journey into Hamburg, which is 54km away, and tickets cost €10.

MEMMINGEN/ MUNICH WEST At Memmingen/Munich West airport we provide a point-to-point bus transfer between Memmingen airport and Munich city centre (the central station). Tickets: €20/€40 (return).

Greece Dialling Code: +30 Currency: Euro (€)

CORFU Take bus 5 or 6 outside the airport to Corfu Town or hop in a taxi. The fare is €12 to Corfu Town. The journey is 3km.

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 2014

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„Olomouc, hidden gem of Europe and the most beautiful Czech town.“ | Lonely Planet

Visit Olomouc, heart of Moravia, 2nd largest urban conservation area after Prague, city with UNESCO monument.

Visit the centre of culture of Moravia!

MUST SEE EVENTS IN 2014: 28.–31. 5. BEERFEST OLOMOUC 13th Czech beer festival, world renown thanks to recommendation from Lonely Planet Special packages for „May in Olomouc“ – 3 nights for 2 people for special price! www.stayovernight.eu/majovaolomouc 27. 6.–20. 7. OLOMOUC BAROQUE FESTIVAL 2nd year of summer evenings with Baroque opera in the historical scenery of ancient Olomouc Special packages for „Olomouc Baroque Festival“ – 1 night for 2 people for special price with free entrance to festival! www.olomouc.eu/baroknislavnosti

Praha Olomouc Brno

For more info about Olomouc visit: tourism.olomouc.eu Praha – Olomouc 253 km

OLOMOUC INFORMATION CENTRE | Upper Square – Town Hall arcade | tel.: +420 585 513 385, +420 585 513 392 Open daily 9:00–19:00 | e-mail: infocentrum@olomouc.eu | www.facebook.com/informacni.centrum.olomouc | tourism.olomouc.eu

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FRO M T H E A I R P O R T I N FO R M AT I O N

HERAKLION (CRETE) Shuttle buses run every 10 minutes to Heraklion, taking 20 minutes. Tickets: €1.10. A local taxi is €14 to the city centre.

bus transfer between Tel Aviv International Airport and any address in Tel Aviv. Tickets: €15/€30 return.

RHODES Buses regularly leave for the main town, 13km away.

The bus stop is between the old and new terminal, tickets €2.30. A taxi to Rhodes town costs €14.

Italy

THESSALONIKI Bus 78 goes to Thessaloniki city centre and the journey takes 45 minutes. Tickets: €0.60. A taxi is about €15 into the centre of Thessaloniki, which is 15km away.

ZAKYNTHOS The easiest way to get into Zakynthos Town is via local taxi. The journey should cost you €10.

Hungary Dialling Code: +36 Currency: Forint (HUF)

BUDAPEST We provide a point-to-point bus transfer between Liszt Ferenc International Airport and Budapest city centre (Deák Ferenc Square).

Tickets: €5 (€10 return).

DEBRECEN We provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport and the city centre.

Tickets: €2 (€4 return).

Israel Dialling Code: +972 Currency: New shekel (ILS)

TEL AVIV In Tel-Aviv we provide a shuttle

Dialling Code: +39 Currency: Euro (€)

ALGHERO Local buses run from the airport to Alghero city centre, about 10km away. Tickets: €0.70. A taxi costs €30.

BARI Bus 16 goes to Bari centre, which is 8km from the airport. Tickets: €0.90. A taxi should cost around €25.

CATANIA The Alibus 457 leaves from the airport every 20 minutes, and takes 20 minutes to get to the city centre. Tickets: €0.80. A taxi costs around €20.

FORLÌ/BOLOGNA The bus to Forlì meets flight arrivals. Tickets cost €3.50 into the centre of Forli.

A taxi into Forlì is €13.

MILAN In Milan we provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport (Bergamo) and city centre. Tickets: €7 (€14 return).

PISA Yellow CPT buses go to the centre, which is one kilometre away. Route 3 stops at Pisa Centrale. Tickets: €1.10. A taxi costs about €10.

ROME From Rome Ciampino airport we provide a lowcost bus transfer to Termini station in Rome city centre.

Tickets are €6 (€12 return).

From Rome Fiumicino airport we offer a low-cost bus transfer, for €8.50 (€17 return), or opt for our shuttle bus transfer to any address in Rome for €18 (€36 return).

TURIN Trains leave the airport to GTT Dora Railway Station every 30 minutes. Tickets: €3.70. A taxi to Turin is around €40.

VENICE We provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport (Treviso), which is 30km from Venice, and the centre (Piazzale Roma). Tickets cost €10 (€20 return).

VERONA The Aerobus leaves the airport for the city centre, which is 5km away, every 20 minutes. Tickets: €6.

A taxi should cost €25.

Latvia NAPLES The ANM Alibus shuttle leaves from the airport arrivals every 20 minutes.

It stops at Central Station in Piazza Garibaldi and Molo Beverello Port. Tickets: €4. A taxi costs €25.

PERUGIA Take shuttle bus ACAP-SULGA to Perugia, 12km away. Tickets cost €8.

Dialling Code: +371 Currency: Lats (LS)

RIGA Bus 22 takes about 30 minutes to get to Riga’s city centre. A one-way ticket from the driver is 0.70 lats (€1) – at the airport information desk ‘Welcome to Riga’ it’s just LS0.50.

Lithuania Dialling Code: +370 Currency: Litas (LTL)

VILNIUS We provide two types of airport transfer, a low-cost transfer between the airport and Vilnius city centre, €3.50 (€7 return) and a personalised taxi to any address within the city centre for €15 (€30 return) per car.

Macedonia Dialling Code: +370 Currency: Denar (MKD)

SKOPJE In Skopje we provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport and Skopje city centre. Tickets: €3 (€6 return).

Malta Dialling Code: +356 Currency: Euro (€)

MALTA Taxis are available outside the terminal 24 hours a day.

A taxi to Valetta will cost you €15; for Mdina it’s €20 and St Julians is around €20.

Moldova Dialling Code: +373 Currency: Leu (MDL)

CHISINAU The Express ‘A’ bus runs from the airport to Chisinau city every 40 minutes, from 7am-7pm. Tickets costs MDL3. A taxi to the centre costs MDL80.

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Netherlands Dialling Code: +31 Currency: Euro (€)

EINDHOVEN In Eindhoven we provide three types of airport transfers: a point-to-point bus transfer between Eindhoven Airport and Amsterdam city centre (tickets: €24 single; €40 return), a point-to-point bus transfer between Eindhoven Airport and Utrecht, Transferium Westraven (tickets: €17 single; €30 return), and a point-topoint bus transfer between Eindhoven Airport and Den Bosch, Transferium Pettelaarpark (tickets: €10 single; €18 return).

Norway Dialling Code: +47 Currency: Kroner (NOK)

ÅLESUND The airport bus reaches the city centre in 25 minutes. Tickets: NOK80 (€10). A taxi costs around NOK340 (€42).

BERGEN In Bergen we provide a pointto-point bus transfer, between Bergen Airport and Bergen City Centre (Bus Station). Tickets: €12 single; €19 return.

20-30 minutes to get to Stavanger city centre.

Tickets: NOK100 (€13). A taxi to the centre costs about NOK400 (€53).

city centre, for €6 single (€12 return), and one between Katowice Airport and Krakow city centre, for €13 single (€26 return).

OSLO SANDEFJORD TORP Take a shuttle bus to the station, then a train to Oslo, taking 1hr 48 minutes. Tickets: NOK245 (€32). Or get the Torp Express bus, NOK220 (€29).

POZNAN Take an Express Line bus to the Central Railway Station; it takes 20 minutes. Or 59 bus or 48 bus to the city centre (taking 30 minutes).

Night bus 242 runs from midnight to 4am. You can buy tickets from the newspaper stands in Arrivals.

TRONDHEIM Take the train from Værnes station to Trondheim, 35km away. It takes 40 minutes.

Tickets: NOK68 (€9).

Poland Dialling Code: +48 Currency: Złoty (PLN)

GDANSK We provide three types of airport transfers: a point-topoint bus transfer between the airport and Gdansk city centre (tickets: €4 single; €8 return), a shuttle bus transfer between Gdansk Airport and any address in Gdansk (tickets: €9 single; €18 return) and a point-to-point bus transfer between Gdansk Airport and Slupsk Bus Station (tickets: €13 single; €24 return).

WARSAW In Warsaw Chopin we provide a personalised WIZZ taxi service between the airport and any address within Warsaw city. The cost is €20 one way or €40 return per car.

WROCŁAW From Copernicus Airport Wrocław, get bus 406, which leaves every 20 minutes, and takes that amount of time to get to the Central Railway Station. It’ll cost you PLN2 (€0.50).

Romania Dialling Code: +40 Currency: Leu (RON)

ARAD HAUGESUND The Flybusse bus reaches Haugesund’s city centre in 30 minutes. Tickets: NOK70. A taxi to the centre is NOK90 (€12).

KRISTIANSAND Take the Flybus to Kristiansand city centre. The journey takes 25 minutes. Tickets: NOK100 (€13). A taxi to the city centre costs about NOK250 (€33).

STAVANGER The Flybuss express takes

LUBLIN The airport is 10km from the city. Take a train from the airport terminal to the main station. It should take 15 minutes and costs PLN5.60 (€1.30). Then take 150 trolley bus or 13 regular bus for three stops, for PLN2.80 (€0.60).

KATOWICE We provide two point-to-point transfers, one between the airport and Katowice

Take a taxi into Arad, 4km away. It should cost RON12 (€2.80).

BUCHAREST We provide two types of airport transfers; a shuttle bus transfer – tickets: €10 (€20 return) – and a personalised taxi to any address in the city centre, at €20 (€40 return) per car.

CLUJ-NAPOCA In Cluj-Napoca we provide a personalised taxi service

between the airport and any address within ClujNapoca city centre. It will cost you €15 one-way (€30 return) per car.

CRAIOVA Bus 9 runs from the airport to Piata Centrala and Universitate every half-hour from 5.30am to 9.30pm.

It’s RON2 (€0.40) one-way. A taxi should be RON18, that's about €3-5.

TIMISOARA Express bus 4 connects Timisoara airport to the city centre. Tickets cost RON2.50 (€0.60).

TARGU MURES In Targu Mures we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address within Targu Mures city centre. Tickets cost €8 single (€16 return).

Russia Dialling Code: +7 Currency: Ruble (RUB)

MOSCOW Catch the Aeroexpress train from the airport to Moscow's Kiyevskaya Rail Station. Tickets cost RUB320 (€7.25) one way. A taxi into the centre of Moscow costs RUB1,200 (€27).

Serbia Dialling Code: +381 Currency: Dinar (RSD)

BELGRADE In Belgrade we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address in the city centre, tickets €8.50 (€14 return).

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Slovakia Dialling Code: +421 Currency: Euro (€)

PALMA DE MALLORCA

GENEVA

GLASGOW

Route 1 leaves for central Palma every 15 minutes. Tickets: €2.50.

A taxi costs €20.

Take a free Unireso ticket in the Arrivals hall, valid for 80 minutes on all public transport. The train into Geneva-Cornavin station takes six minutes. A taxi to Geneva costs CHF30-35 (€24-28).

Shuttle bus 500 (First) operates 24 hours a day to Buchanan bus station with stops at Central and Queen Street stations. Tickets: £6 (€7). A taxi into Glasgow should cost around £25 (€29).

Turkey

Bus 500 (Arriva) operates to the city centre with stops for Lime Street station together with Liverpool One and Queen Square bus stations. Tickets cost £3 (€3.70). A taxi into Liverpool costs £20 (€23).

VALENCIA KOŠICE Košice Airport is about 8km from the city centre. Take bus 23, the journey takes about 20 minutes.

Or pick up a cab outside the terminal, starting at €10, taking 10 minutes.

Slovenia

Metro lines 3 and 5 run straight to the centre (Colón) and train station (Xativa). Tickets cost €1.50. A taxi to Valencia costs around €20.

ZARAGOZA A bus runs between the airport and Paseo Maria Agustín in Zaragoza. Tickets: €1.85. A taxi should cost €15-20.

Dialling Code: +386 Currency: Euro (€)

LIVERPOOL

Dialling Code: +90 Currency: Lira (TRY)

ANTALYA Take bus 202 to the city centre.

A ticket is about 4 lira (€1.60). A taxi is roughly 64 lira (€25).

Sweden ISTANBUL LJUBLJANA It takes 25 minutes to get into the city by taxi (€35-45) or the shuttle bus (€5-9). The city bus is once an hour, tickets €4.10.

Spain Dialling Code: +34 Currency: Euro (€)

ALICANTE Bus route C-6 runs from the airport to the centre of Alicante every 20 minutes. Tickets: €2.70. A taxi costs €20.

BARCELONA In Barcelona we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address within Barcelona city centre. Tickets: €18 (€36 return).

MADRID In Madrid we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address within Madrid city centre. Tickets: €18 (€36 return).

MALAGA The A Express Line connects the city centre with the airport. Tickets cost €2. A taxi into the city centre costs about €20.

Dialling Code: +46 Currency: Krona (SEK)

Havas buses run to Taksim Square, for 1.50 lira (€0.60). A taxi is 120 lira (€48).

GOTHENBURG Flygbussarna buses depart every half-hour, 4am-11pm, for SEK150 (€17.50) return. A taxi is SEK350 (€40).

UAE Dialling Code: +971 Currency: Dirham (AED)

Ukraine

MALMÖ We provide a bus transfer between Malmö airport and Copenhagen Central Station. Tickets: €20 (€40 return).

STOCKHOLM SKAVSTA Take the Flygbussarna bus to Stockholm. Tickets: SEK129.

A taxi from the airport costs SEK1,400 (€15).

LONDON First Capital Connect train tickets to central London can be purchased onboard from our WIZZ Boutique. Tickets: €17 (single)/€30 (return). Includes bus transfer to Luton train station.

We also provide a bus transfer between London Luton Airport and Victoria Station in cooperation with National Express. Tickets: €16 one-way (€22 return).

DUBAI In Dubai we provide a shuttle bus transfer between Dubai World Central Airport and any address within Dubai (tickets: €30 single; €58 return) and a shuttle bus transfer between Dubai World Central Airport and any address within Abu Dhabi (Tickets: €52 single; €98 return).

Dialling Code: +380 Currency: Hryvnia (UAH)

DONETSK Bus 5 goes to the centre. Tickets: UAH2. Taxis are easy to find outside the airport.

KHARKIV

Switzerland Dialling Code: +41 Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF)

UK Dialling Code: +44 Currency: Pound (£)

BASEL

DONCASTER SHEFFIELD

EuroAirport is a binational airport. Exit through Swiss customs. Bus 50 goes to Basel Railway Station, and costs CHF4.20 (€3.60). A taxi into Basel should cost you CHF40-50 (up to €40).

Buses 91 and X19 run to Doncaster bus/rail interchange.

A single ticket costs from £2.80 (€3.30). Connect for regular train (and bus) services to Sheffield. A taxi to Doncaster is around £20 (€23); £45 (€52) to Sheffield.

Take bus 5 or 115 to the centre of Kharkiv. Taxis cost UAH100 (€9.50).

KYIV Take mini-buses and trolley bus 22 (in front of Terminal B) to the centre is UAH1.5 to 3. A taxi is UAH120 (€11.50).

LVIV Get to the centre via public transport (95 mini-bus and 9 trolley bus services), or take a taxi for UAH100 (€9.50).

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PROMOT ION

FALL IN LOVE WITH POL AND Take time to venture beyond the country’s largest cities, and you’ll be rewarded with a selection of spring escapes set to capture your heart

t may be winter outside the window, but if spring is in your heart, it may be time to start planning your next trip away – with many of Poland’s smaller towns and cities making up some of the most enchanting holiday destinations over the coming months.

For example, just 90 minutes from Gdańsk on the new A1 motorway, Chełmno – the ‘City of Lovers’ – is the perfect spot for those seeking a romantic weekend with their nearest and dearest.

Or, for a break filled with history and gunsmoke, head to Srebrna Góra in the south-east of the country, where you’ll find Europe’s largest mountain fortress and the thrills of pitched battle reenactments.

Further towards Katowice, the beautiful city of Racibórz also promises a fascinating holiday, with a collection of unique attractions that has guests returning time and time again.

But wherever you choose, don’t be surprised if you find yourself falling in love with this diverse country and the charming towns that make it so special.

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GDAN´SK CHEŁMNO

POZNAN´ WARSAW

KATOWICE

SREBRNA GÓRA RACIBÓRZ

If it’s a romantic getaway you’re looking for, what could be more fitting than a trip to Poland’s ‘City of Lovers’®?

Located in a picturesque setting across nine hills in northern Poland, on the River Vistula, Chełmno takes its charming moniker from the St Valentine’s relic that has been stored for centuries in its parish church, as well as the wonderful St Valentine’s Day celebration that takes place every year on 14 February.

No visit is complete without a tour of its Old Town, a model for other cities, including Warsaw. It’s now registered on the List of Historic Monuments by the President of the Republic of Poland, and is one of the cities that makes up the European Route of Brick Gothic and the Hanse.

Here, romance and history stand side by side – Chelmno was mentioned in written documents as far back as 1065 – as gothic city walls and the Medieval chessboard layout of its Medieval streets provide an enchanting backdrop to its most splendid gothic monuments: its six churches, the old convent complex and the gothic and renaissance town hall with its historic ‘Chełmno rod’ measurement model.

A place to see, remember and fall in love!

chelmno.pl

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PHOTOS: ELZBEITA PAWELEC (PANORAMA, HEART) AND KAMIL KOTLEWSKI (WEDDING COUPLE)

Chełmno

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PROMOT ION

Srebrna Góra

PHOTO (AERIAL SHOT): ZBIGNIEW RABENDA

The largest mountain fortress in Europe, Srebrna Góra is one of the highlights of Lower Silesia and home to an array of mysteries and legends that will entertain and amuse adults and children alike. These stories are told in vivid fashion by the fortress’s entertainment team, who dress in Napoleonic era attire while teaching visitors about everything from reliable defensive strategies to the life of an 18th-century soldier. Black powder weapon demonstrations and replica cannon salvos complete the experience.

The fortress is open every day of the year: from 10am to 4pm from 1 November to 31 March, and from 10am to 6pm from 1 April to 31 October. During July and August weekends, it remains open to 7pm, while a tourist train is also in operation.

Many of its spaces have been lovingly restored with the help of the Ministry of Culture and EU funding, while the exemplary conservation work and adaptation measures undertaken were recognised in the Zabytek Zadbany A.D. 2013 competition organised by the National Heritage Institute.

forty.pl

Racibórz What links the castle mentioned in the Chronicles of Gallus Anonymus from 1108, an Egyptian mummy and a goat’s foot? On the face of it, not much, except they are all among the gems waiting to be found in Racibórz – in the form of Piastowski Castle, in the city museum and as part of the ‘Old Dental Techniques’ exhibition respectively – and there are plenty more to discover as well!

These include the gothic Chapel of St Thomas Becket, built at the end of the 13th century. Known as the Upper Silesian Sainte-Chapelle, it is one of the most beautiful of its kind in Poland. The town’s Church of St James was the site of the first sentence ever recorded in Polish, while Upper Silesia’s oldest working brewery, established before 1532, is also located in Racibórz, as was the Third Reich’s first nuclear reactor.

However, the town has far more to offer than just history, including Europe’s longest avenue of Turkish hazel and the Moravian Gate Arboretum – an old regal forest complete with enchanted garden. Also within the town limits, keen bird-watchers can’t miss the Łężczok reserve, the most valuable ornithological sanctuary in Poland.

raciborz.pl

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PROMOT ION

GLIWICE MARKET

THE FUTURE IS HERE A new entertainment arena, educational pedigree and modern tourist attractions offer a perfect balance to Gliwice’s noted history and traditions ne of the most charming cities in southern Poland, Gliwice has balanced investment in infrastructure that befits a modern destination without ever losing sight of the traditions that make it unique. Located in Silesia, it’s well connected to the rest of Europe thanks to its excellent road network (at the junction of the A1 and A4) and the close proximity of Katowice International Airport (43km away).

At the moment, the Atlas Arena and Ergo Arena in Łódź and the Tricity Area stand out as Poland’s primary destinations for cultural and sporting events. But soon, these venues will be joined by two new arenas in Gliwice and Kraków, with Hala Gliwice set to be one of the largest and most modern in the country. Expected to be completed within two years, it will be able to accommodate up to 15,000 people attending a range of local, national and

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even international events. These could include sports as diverse as hockey, athletics, tennis, volleyball, basketball, handball, indoor football and boxing; while the hall will also be functionally and operationally suitable for exhibitions and trade fairs, and entertainment events such as concerts, film screenings and dance competitions.

As the home of the Silesian University of Technology – one of Poland’s foremost technical universities – Gliwice also boasts some serious educational prestige. Many of the country’s future engineers are trained here, across a wide range of industries and modern technologies. This results in a professional and knowledgeable workpool that has contributed to significant scientific advancements and prompted many large companies to establish operations here.

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PROMOT ION

A VISUALISATION OF HALA GLIWICE

GLIWICE RADIO TOWER

PAVILION AQUARIUM IN THE PALM HOUSE

PHOTOS BY T. ZAKRZEWSKI

For example, Flytronic, producers of the FlyEye unmanned flying platform, are based in the city, while the country’s first face transplant was successfully performed at the Gliwice Cancer Centre. As many as 65 large companies, including Opel (General Motors Poland), now have a base in the city, providing thousands of its residents with jobs. Gliwice even has its own ‘Silicon Valley’, modelled on the Californian original, where its advanced technology sector is now centred. All of this has contributed to Gliwice’s favourable industry rankings, which mark it out as a place for good living, good work and good money.

All visitors to the city are sure to find plenty to see and do, with history-lovers particularly in for a treat. Among its most popular old locations is the Gliwice Radio Station and its stately tower. Extending 111m into the air, the wooden structure is the tallest of its kind in the air.

All visitors to the city are sure to find plenty to see and do, with historylovers in for a particular treat

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The building also finds itself linked to the outbreak of World War II, since this was the site of the Gliwice Provocation on 31 August, 1939. At 8pm, several armed SS operatives, dressed in civilian clothes, launched a staged attack on the station and broadcast a short anti-German message in Polish. The following day, Hitler cited the incident as an example of aggression on the part of the Poles, which he then used to justify his invasion of the country.

One of the city’s most beautiful spots is its Old Town, where narrow Medieval streets intertwine as they lead to the central market. Right in the middle stands the splendid town hall, which is one of Gliwice’s main meeting places for residents and tourists.

One of the biggest hits among tourists is the city’s Municipal Palm House aquarium, where four giant freshwater tanks have been adapted to reflect the natural environments found in Polish and Asian rivers and Africa’s Lake Tanganyika, making it possible to support a huge variety of fish and underwater plants. The aquarium’s greatest attraction is a huge 60,000-litre aquarium designed to replicate Amazonian conditions, which is considered the most modern and best-landscaped tank of its kind in Poland.

16/01/2014 15:11

PROMOT ION

THE NEX T EUROPE AN CAPITAL OF CULTURE? Festivals, history and unforgettable natural environments look set to earn Craiova and the entire Oltenia region European recognition

his spring, the Romanian city of Craiova will host the T International William Shakespeare Festival, one of the most prestigious theatre events in the world. And this forms just part of the cultural programme planned for the years ahead, with the city aiming to become the 2021 European Capital of Culture on behalf of the whole of the Oltenia region, supported by the counties of Gorj, Dolj, Valcea, Olt and Mehedinti.

Back in 1770, Craiova was the capital of Tara Romaneasca; its fascinating collection of monuments and architectural gems a legacy of its ability to attract many of the country’s wealthiest noblemen.

It continued to do so for centuries – even during World War II, one of the city’s inhabitants could afford to lend money to the French government, while his house sheltered the exiled Polish parliament.

Craiova is also home to the largest natural park in Central and Eastern Europe, of which the plans were awarded the gold medal at the 1900 Universal Exhibition in Paris. Its museums house the world’s largest collection of Brancusi works, as well as a 30,000year-old female skull that proves that one of the oldest known human settlements was located in the area.

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TOP LEFT: MIHAI VITEAZU SQUARE AND PALATUL PREFECTURII. BOTTOM LEFT: THE SUSPENDED BRIDGE FROM NICOLAE ROMANESCU PARK ABOVE: THE LAKE IN NICOLAE ROMANESCU PARK. RIGHT: SFANTA TREIME CHURCH. FAR RIGHT: LIA OLGUTA VASILESCU, THE MAYOR OF CRAIOVA.

It is also widely known as a city of great inventors, with a list of famous sons that includes Petrache Poenaru, the inventor of the fountain pen, and Gogu Constantinescu, the scientist behind the theory of sonics, whose inventions made a significant contribution to the Allied victory in World War II. It was also the birthplace of Nicolae Vasilescu Karpen, the inventor of the Karpen Pile, which has now provided a continuous supply of energy for over 60 years.

Across the entire Oltenia region, visitors will find a priceless combination of tradition, great monuments and natural wonders that has helped make Craiova a serious candidate for the title of European Capital of Culture.

Many of these can be found in Gorj County, which is known for the Constantin Brancusi Ensemble – where the Table of Silence,

Tradition, great monuments and natural wonders make Craiova a serious candidate to be the European Capital of Culture

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the Gate of Kiss and The Endless Column come together to make up one of the 20th century’s great outdoor sculptures – as well as the 2,000 caves and mountainous areas that make it perfect for adventure tourism.

Meanwhile, Mehedinti County boasts some of the most dramatic nature in Europe, where wild horses still roam the forests. Here, you will find the statue of Decebalus – the tallest rock sculpture in Europe – plus a wonderful Medieval fortress and Apollodorus of Damascus’s bridge in Drobeta Turnu Severin.

Valcea County, on the other hand, is best-known for its chain of mountain resorts and the Horezu ceramics that form an important part of Oltenian heritage. In Olt County, visitors will discover 7,000-plus-year-old Vadastra pottery and the ancient fortress of Sucidava. While, in Dolj County, they will find the Cetate cultural harbour and, obviously, Craiova – the future European Capital of Culture.

Craiova would like to invite you to visit the city to experience all the wonderful things it has to offer!

+40 251 416 235, primariacraiova.ro

16/01/2014 16:54

PROMOT ION

RIXOS-PRYKARPATTYA

TUR-GALYCHYNA

DISCOVER TRUSK AVETS Famous for its unique mineral waters, this Ukrainian resort now ranks among Europe’s major health centres ocated in an ecologically clean region in western Ukraine, within easy reach of Western and Central Europe, Truskavets has long been one of the country’s foremost resort destinations. Its popularity comes primarily from its status as the only place in the world where you can find ‘Naftusya’ mineral waters – which forms the basis of many of the health treatments that have emerged from the city’s centuries-old expertise in balneology – as well as its reputation for developed visitor infrastructure, comfortable accommodation and first-rate recreation facilities.

This popularity looks set to continue thanks to an inexhaustible supply of Naftusya, which is formed through the water’s natural percolation through soil containing a unique balance of chemicals and minerals. This provides it with a high content of organic matter derived from petroleum compounds that are quickly destroyed when exposed to air, making Naftusya impossible to bottle.

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Truskavets is the only place in the world where you can find ‘Naftusya’ mineral waters

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By coming to Truskavets, however, visitors can take advantage of all the properties that make these waters so special: it’s said to promote the discharge of small stones from the urinary and biliary tracts; it normalises fat, carbohydrate and protein metabolism, which can help those suffering from diabetes or obesity; it improves the function of the gastrointestinal tract and pancreas; it restores livers cells, it removes radionuclides, toxins and oxidised products of metabolism from the body; and it normalises the immune system, thus activating the body’s defences and reducing the risk of cancer.

As such, Truskavets has become known as one of Europe’s leading health resorts, with its Maximus sanitaria offering treatment to patients with kidney and urinary tract conditions, metabolic disorders, chronic pyelonephritis and cystitis, urolithiasis with the presence of stones, chronic prostatitis in remission, and diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, liver or gall bladder, as well as rehabilitation following surgery and long-term chronic diseases. Plus, the resort has its own modern diagnostic and medical facilities, with research currently being undertaken in 28 clinical and 14 biochemical laboratories.

truskavets.ua

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PROMOT ION

SHAHTER

Rixos-Prykarpattya Медицинский центр, 359 номера, 2 ресторана, 6 баров, 3 конференцзала, детский городок, собственный бювет, SPA, тренажерный зал, сауны и салоны красоты, , бильярд и боулинг, корты, торговый пассаж, аквапарк. Официально сертифицированный центр терапии по Ф.К. Майеру. Тел.+3803(247)-7-11-11 rixos.com.ua

DNEPR- BESDKID

MOLDOVA

Откройте для себя курорт Трускавец то один из крупнейших европейских центров индустрии здоровья, находящийся на Западной Украине – в центре Европы. На курорте проводят исследования и диагностику в клинических и биохимических лабораториях, в частности, иммунологической и клинико-бактериологической лабораториях, лаборатории иммуноферментной и радиоизотопной диагностики, функционирует 26 отелей, 24 санатория, 8 пансионатов и 16 вилл Трускавц известен благодаря его водам.«Нафтуся» - наиболее исследованная минеральная вода в Европе, в составе - органические вещества нефтяного происхождения. К сожалению воздух быстро разрушает вещества, которые придают ей лечебные свойства, и по этому ее рекомендовано пить только в

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бювете. Уникальность состоит в том, что в ее составе содержится микрофлора с антибактериальными свойствами. Способствует ликвидации воспалительных процессов, стимулирует вывод мелких камней и песка из организма, ликвидирует опасность повторного камнеобразования. Показаниями для лечения в Трускавце считаются: заболевания мочеполовой системы, пищеварительной системы, нарушение обмена веществ, дыхательной системы, сердечнососудистой системы, опорнодвигательной и периферической нервной систем, кожные заболевания. ЛУЧШИЕ ПРЕДЛОЖЕНИЯ КУРОРТА ТРУСКАВЕЦ Туроператор по Трускавцу “Тур - Галичина” mytruskavets.com.ua +38(03247)51313

Dnepr- Besdkid «Днепр-Бескид» –комплекс с лечебно-диагностической базой. Обнаружение опухоли молочной железы на ранней стадии, безоперационное лечение аденомы простаты, вакуумная терапия для улучшения сердечнососудистой и мозговой деятельности, ударно-волновая терапия – без операционного вмешательства при заболеваниях опорно-двигательной системы, гидромассаж и подводная вытяжка позвоночника Тел. (+38067)9616580 beskyd.com.ua Moldova “Санаторий «Молдова» - лечебнодиагностический центр, СПА центр, кино-концертный зал. Лечение опорно-двигательного аппарата и периферической нервной системы; процедуры в салоне «Мертвое море», радоновые ванны, криосауна, массажи и лечение профильных для курорта болезней. +38095 082 67 37 san-moldova.com.ua Shahter Санаторий «Шахтер» обладает лечебно-диагностической базой оснащенной новейшим оборудованием. Высококвалифицированными врачами осуществляется лечение профильных для курорта болезней, биохимическая, клиническая и бактериологическая лаборатории, диагностич еский центр компьютерной томографии и маммографии. +380 (3247) 7-30-70 shahtar.com.ua

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E X C I T I N G N E W D E S T I N AT I O N S , O F F E R S A N D A L L T H E L AT E S T N E W S F R O M W I Z Z A I R

NEW ROUTE TO ALICANTE

WORDS BY KATIE BUCKLEY

Soak up sun and culture in Alicante with Wizz Air’s new flights from Budapest Forget what you may think you know about Alicante, the southern Spanish city on the Costa Blanca: this city has more to offer than you might realise. It has a beautifully restored Old Town, Michelinstarred restaurants, simple

tapas restaurants (one of which, Nou Manolín, is a favourite with world-famous chef Ferran Adrià), top art galleries and family-friendly beaches. And now Wizz Air has made it easier for travellers to reach this vibrant destination. From 14 June, Wizz Air will be operating a once-weekly route from Budapest for just HUF 19,990 (€66), one-way.

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T H E W I Z Z WAY

Budapest to Donetsk

Take Off to Tel Aviv Stuck for summer holiday ideas? Why not try out Tel Aviv! Wizz Air announces new flights starting this spring from Sofia and Prague It’s been more than a year since Wizz Air started flying to Tel Aviv, Israel’s cosmopolitan city by the sea. Now Wizz Air are offering even more ways to get to there: from 31 March the airline will commence a new route three times a week from Prague on a new Airbus A320. Prices start as low as CZK1,499 (€55). Wizz Air has also announced new flights from Sofia, also running three times a week, from 14 May. Ticket prices

SKOPJE TO COLOGNE Wizz Air is pleased to announce a new route from Skopje to Cologne launching on 4 April.

The tickets for the twice-weekly flights will start at €29.99 one-way. Why go to Cologne? Well, we think it’s one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. The fourth largest in the country and sat right on the River Rhine, it’s the perfect location for leisurely boat rides and lunches by the river.

Don’t miss the brightly coloured buildings in the Altstadt (Old Town) or the Dom, the city’s glorious gothic cathedral that dates back to the 13th century. It is Germany’s most visited landmark and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

start from just BGN99.99 (€51). Now that Wizz Air has made it easy to travel to Tel Aviv, all you have to do is plan out what to do when you get there! Make sure you hit the beach – there are 16 to choose from, and all offer something different. And why not experience the city’s legendary nightlife? Jersualem is only 70km away and has more than 3,000 years of history, including the Wailing Wall and the fantastic bazaars. Or float about in the Dead Sea, where the salt content is so high you can’t sink!

Whatever you choose, it won’t be the flights you need to splash out on for a trip to Tel Aviv.

From 30 April, Wizz Air will be offering flights twice a week from Budapest to one of its newest bases, Donetsk in eastern Ukraine. Flights start from HUF 8,090 (€27), one-way including taxes. The new route is expected to boost business links between the two destinations and allow Ukrainian tourists affordable access to Budapest.

DON’T PASS UP THIS OFFER! Wizz Air has launched a new loyalty product, the WIZZ Privilege Pass, that allows you unlimited priority boarding and a free large cabin bag on all Wizz Air flights. The virtual pass costs just €99 and has a one-year validity from date of issue. The benefits apply from the date of issue and on all bookings made during the validity period, regardless on when you travel. If you’re a frequent flyer, the price of the WIZZ Privilege Pass is quickly offset by not having to pay separately for a large cabin bag and priority boarding.

Buy yours now on wizzair.com

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T H E W I Z Z WAY

I Love My City: Skopje Bernadett Aniko Kiss, the WIZZ Ambassador for Macedonia, shares her top tips for her adopted home city of Skopje “I joined the ‘pink team’ almost three years ago after being chosen at an open day at Târgu Mureş. I've been lucky enough to live and work in Warsaw and Budapest, but just over a year ago I was promoted to Senior Cabin Attendant and moved to one of our newest bases, Skopje.

I recommend that first-time visitors simply walk around the city and talk to the people.

Macedonians are extremely friendly, helpful and welcoming. They are the soul of the city. To understand its history, you can visit the Skopje Museum, Stone Bridge and the Fortress.

Macedonia’s cuisine has something for everyone, but for an authentic taste I suggest Stara Kuka, or the Old House (starakuka.com.mk), right in the city centre. Order a burek (filo pastry stuffed with meat, cheese or spinach), shopska salad (with tomato, cucumber, onion and white cheese) or turli tava (a delicious vegetable and meat stew baked in a pottery dish).

Outside the city, there’s amazing scenery, such as Ohrid Lake (pictured above), the Mavrovo mountains or Matka Canyon. But my favourite is Millennium Cross on Vodno Mountain. It’s a magical, humbling place, where the sky meets the earth and the sun takes away all your problems.”

Want to find more WIZZ Ambassadors city recommendations? Visit facebook.com/wizzaircom

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PROMOT ION

SEE FOR MA

THINNING HAIR? How a new pill can boost your hair and self-confidence cientists in Oxford promise that they can help keep your hair thick and healthy.

Their pill, TRX2, is currently Europe’s most popular hair treatment and sold in over 100 countries. TRX2 is based on organic compounds, works far better than existing treatments and has no side effects whatsoever.

“Your hair will look much bigger; it becomes heavier and thicker. You maintain your healthy hair,” says Oxford Biolabs CEO Dr Thomas Whitfield.

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“Your hair becomes much heavier and thicker. You maintain your healthy hair"

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Hair treatments often promise a lot without delivering, but TRX2 is backed by cutting-edge science and has been thoroughly tested. According to a study, TRX2 works for 87% of men and women.

The results can be impressive – hair thickness may increase by 22.5 % after nine months and 38.7 % after 18 months of treatment. Start TRX2 as early as possible in order to increase the chances of fully recovering your hair.

TRX2 is suitable for men and women of all ages.

The crystalline white capsules come in a brown glass bottle, which is sufficient for one month of treatment and costs approximately €49. The manufacturer offers a money-back guarantee if ordered via TRX2’s official website, and ships worldwide. www.trx2.com, contact@trx2.com Oxford Biolabs Ltd, The Oxford Science Park, Oxford, UK

EXCLUSIVE Passenger deal Order via www.trx2.com and use the coupon code ''Airline” to receive an exclusive 5% discount

15/01/2014 16:58

WIZZ AIR

Safety Information hilst on board this flight we ask that you consider your fellow passengers and also pay attention to the information below. Be informed that by purchasing your Wizz Air ticket, you have accepted the Wizz Air General Conditions of Carriage. Our cabin crew will be happy to answer any questions you may have. Please remember that they are on board primarily for your safety but also for your comfort.

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SMOKING Smoking on any Wizz Air flight is strictly forbidden, this includes the use of electronic cigarettes. Lavatories are equipped with smoke detectors.

ALCOHOL Alcoholic drinks are available on board as detailed in our inflight magazine, WIZZ. These are served at the crew’s discretion to passengers of legal drinking age. While on board, you are only permitted to consume alcoholic drinks purchased from the WIZZ Boutique and Café. The cabin crew reserve the right to stop serving alcohol to any passenger who is or appears to be drunk.

YOUR CONDUCT ON BOARD In accordance with International Law, the Captain is in command of the aircraft and every person on board shall obey his or her lawful commands. The Captain has the authority to take any actions deemed necessary to manage passengers who are disruptive or cause problems during flights. Our primary concern is for the safety of our passengers and crew. We have a zero-tolerance policy with regard to passengers who are verbally or physically disruptive towards any other person on board the aircraft. In all cases of disruptive or abusive behaviour by passengers, the crew will always put the safety of the aircraft, crew and other passengers first. They will follow related safety procedures and notify the authorities.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT It is an offence to tamper with or remove any safety equipment on board this aircraft, including the life vests. Any such actions may jeopardise the safety of other passengers and lead to prosecution. Life vests for infants are available and will be provided in the event of a landing on water.

SAFE STOWAGE OF YOUR HAND BAGGAGE Please ensure that your cabin baggage remains safely stowed for take-off and landing and at any time as instructed by the crew.

Place small bags under the seat in front of you (unless you are seated in an emergency exit row); larger items must go in the overhead lockers. Place your bag securely in the locker and take care when opening lockers, as falling items may injure fellow passengers.

SHARP ITEMS If you need to dispose of any sharp items (i.e. hypodermic needle), please contact a member of the cabin crew.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES In accordance with International Civil Aviation Authority safety regulations, the use of devices for messaging, calls or internet access must remain switched off once the aircraft doors are closed. Some devices can be used during the flight (when the seatbelt sign has been switched off), these include: ● Bluetooth devices, excluding telephones. ● Devices (including PDAs and smart phones) that have a flight-safe mode, provided this is enabled before the aircraft doors are closed.

The device must then be switched off for take-off and again for landing. ● Laptops and tablet PCs including those with built-in WLAN/WiFi, provided the WLAN/WiFi is switched off prior to the doors being closed. ● Electronic games, eBooks, MP3s, DVD and CD players, provided that any WLAN/WiFi is switched off prior to the doors being closed.

If in doubt, please keep devices switched off for the duration of the flight as they may interfere with our systems.

PALENIE Palenie podczas lotów liniami Wizz Air jest bezwzgle˛ dnie zabronione. Zakaz ten obejmuje równiez˙ papierosy elektroniczne.

Toalety s wyposaz˙ one w czujniki dymu.

ALKOHOL Na pokładzie samolotu doste˛ pne s napoje alkoholowe wymienione w magazynie pokładowym. S one serwowane pełnoletnim pasaz˙ erom według uznania pracowników obsługi. Na pokładzie samolotu moz˙ na konsumowac´ tylko alkohol zakupiony podczas serwisu Wizz Café. Ze wzgle˛ dów bezpieczen´ stwa przebywanie na pokładzie samolotu w stanie nietrzez´ wym jest niedozwolone. Zgodnie z własn ocen pracownicy obsługi lotu mog przestac´ serwowac´ alkohol osobom, które s nietrzez´ we lub sprawiaj takie wraz˙ enie.

FUMATUL Este strict interzis fumatul la bordul orica˘rui zbor Wizz Air flight, inclusiv fumarea tiga˘rilor electronice. Toaletele sunt preva˘zute cu detectoare de fum.

ALCOOLUL La bord sunt disponibile ba˘uturi alcoolice, asa cum este detaliat în revista de bord a companiei WIZZ. Acestea sunt servite, dupa˘ cum decide echipajul, pasagerilor care au vârsta permisa˘ de lege pentru a consuma alcool. Cât timp va˘ aflati la bord, puteti sa˘ consumati doar ba˘uturi alcoolice cumpa˘rate de la Wizz Café. Din motive de siguranta˘, este interzis sa˘ fiti în stare de ebrietate la bordul unui avion. Însotitorii de zbor îsi rezerva˘ dreptul de a înceta sa˘ mai serveasca˘ alcool orica˘rui pasager care este sau care pare a fi în stare de ebrietate.

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T H E W I Z Z WAY

W I Z Z

A I R

Products & Services HALF-PRICE HOTELS Wherever you’re flying to today, we have a huge selection of hotels at great rates. You’ll find everything from budget accommodation to five-star luxury pads among our portfolio of more than 345,000 properties in 184 countries thanks to our hotel partner, Booking.com Set in the heart of Lviv, just a stone’s throw from the Opera Theatre and Ploshcha Rynok (Market Square), why not consider Hotel Rudolfo? This charming hotel offers elegant rooms with free Wi-Fi and also boasts a beautiful terrace with panoramic views of the city. Ekaterina, from Russia, says: “This new and modern hotel has a perfect location in the city centre, with clean, spacious rooms. They do a good breakfast too!”

Fly and drive in one click

AIRPORT PARKING

Book your flights and car rental in just one easy step; just add your car rental to your shopping basket, together with your flights and other services, and settle the balance in one single transaction at wizzair.com. With rentals starting from as little as €12 per day, you won’t find a better deal anywhere else!

Wizz Air has teamed with ParkVia to bring you the best prices for car parking across its European network.

You could save up to 60%!

Booking online is easy and saves you money, whether you need to park your car for just one day, or several months.

Wizz Airport Transfer You’ve just landed and you’re ready for your holiday! Minimise stress and get straight to the fun: skip the queues at the airport after arrival and pre-book your airport transfer. Low-cost buses, door-to-door transfers, train or taxi options are available at our major destinations.

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T H E W I Z Z WAY

Wizz Premium Add all your favourite services in just one click and save up to 55%! We’ve packaged our most popular services into two bundles, Wizz Premium (€30) and Wizz Premium Plus (€49). Both packages include airport check-in, Reserved Seat or XXLong Extra Legroom, Wizz Flex, on-time arrival guarantee, large cabin bag and, in the Wizz Premium Plus package, one piece of checked-in baggage. Wizz Premium packages for flights from Budapest include fast-track security service.

*ON ALL FARES EXCEEDING €12.50 AND EXCLUDING FLIGHTS OPERATED BY WIZZ AIR UKRAINE. FARES INCLUDE TAXES, NON OPTIONAL CHARGES AND ONE SMALL CABIN BAG (42X25X32CM), BUT EXCLUDE BOOKING FEE.

Wizz reserved seat and XXLong extra legroom Beat the crowds and the queues, and enjoy a guaranteed seat in the first front two rows of the plane, or a seat in the emergency rows, with our Reserved Seat and XXLong Extra Legroom services. Offering significantly more legroom, it’s perfect for long-limbed travellers, or those that just want to travel in a little more comfort.

The service also includes priority boarding.

The Wizz Air Credit Cards Shop, collect and spend! Apply for a Wizz Air co-branded credit card with one of our partner banks in Hungary (Erste Bank), Poland (Citibank) or Romania (Bancpost) to collect points on all your purchases (2% for regular purchases, 4% for purchases on wizzair. com) and redeem them on wizzair.com for Wizz Air flights and services.

In addition, receive a one-year completely FREE WIZZ Discount Club membership, giving you (and up to nine travelling companions) access to a guaranteed discount of €10 per one-way flight on all fares* exceeding €12.50.

WIZZ FLEX Unlimited online flight change for free!

Travel plans can change at the last minute. Purchasing WIZZ Flex for only €10 per flight will allow you to change the date, time and routing of your flight, online and any number of times, up to three hours prior to the scheduled departure time. The change fee will not be charged – however, any fare difference must be paid.

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Váltsa repülésre vásárlásait

Wizz Air Hitelkártyával szerzett pontjaiból!

A Wizz Air Hitelkártyával minden vásárlásával 100 forintonként 2 pontot gyûjthet, amelyeket egy az egyben forintokra válthat és Wizz Air repülõjegyekre valamint egyéb utazási szolgáltatásokra használhat fel!

Ráadásul ha Ön Wizz Air Hitelkártyával rendelkezik, díjmentesen tagja lehet a Wizz Discount Clubnak, és így kedvezményesen vásárolhat repülõjegyeket! Részletek a www.erstebank.hu vagy a wizzair.com oldalon.

THM: 41,41%

wizzair.com

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A tájékoztatás nem teljes körû. A részletes kondíciókat és szerzõdéses feltételeket az Erste Bank mindenkor hatályos Lakossági Hitelkártya Általános Szerzõdési Feltételei és a Lakossági Hitel Hirdetmény, a pontgyûjtés és pontbeváltás részleteit a Wizz Air Kártyák Pontgyûjtõ Feltételei tartalmazzák. Ezek a dokumentumok megtalálhatóak a bankÖ ókokban és a www.erstebank.hu címen. Teljes Hiteldíj Mutató (THM) meghatározása az aktuális feltételek, illetve a hatályos jogszabályok Ögyelembevételével 375 ezer forint hitelösszeg, 12 hónap futamidõ, a havi változó hitelkamat, valamint a zárlati díj Ö gyelembevételével került kiszámításra, a feltételek és a jogszabály változása esetén mértéke módosulhat. A THM értéke nem tükrözi a hitel kamatkockázatát.

16/01/2014 13:23

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Chbg ma^ PBSS =bl\hngm <en[ _hk hger ù+2'22 Zg] lZo^ ù*) i^k hg^&pZr × b`am# • Guaranteed discount h_ ù*) i^k hg^ƌpZr × b`am hg Zee _Zk^l ^q\^^]bg` ù*+'.)

• Instant access mh ma^ ]bl\hngml Z_m^k ma^ f^f[^klabi Z\mboZmbhg • Family discounts oZeb] _hk ma^ f^f[^kÍl mkZo^e \hfiZgbhgl !ni mh 2 i^klhgl" • Exclusive promotions Zg] Z\\^ll mh Z]]bmbhgZe ]bl\hngml [^_hk^ ghgƌf^f[^kl

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WIZZ MAGAZINE / 121

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE HOT DRINKS

COFFEE & DECAF €2

SELEC TION VALID ON WIZZ AIR HUNGARY FLIGHTS ONLY

HOT TEA €2

SOF T DRINKS

CAPPUCCINO €3

HOT CHOCOLATE €3

Breakfast Time!

Buy any 2 croissant / Nutella & Go snacks and get a hot drink for FREE!

FREE

MINERAL WATER €2 sparkling / still ( 0.5L )

JUICES €3 PRODUCT MAY VARY (0.33L)

NESTEA €3 (0.5L)

PEPSI LIGHT, PEPSI, 7UP €2 (0.33L)

TONIC WATER, TOMATO JUICE €2 (0.15L)

BURN ENERGY DRINK €3 (0.25L)

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

Choose your favourite cocktail Buy any soft drink and any spirit and get a bag of peanuts for FREE!

ALCOHOL

JÄGERMEISTER €4 ( 0.04L )

VODKA / WHISKEY / GIN €4 (0.05L)

Buy 2 cans of beer for €5

SAVE €1

PREMIUM WINES €4 BEER €3 (0.33L)

PRODUCT MAY VARY

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE FRESH FOOD

HAM & CHEESE BAGUET TE €4

CHEESE BAGUET TE €4

CHICKEN BAGUET TE €4

NOODLE SOUP €3 PRODUCT MAY VARY

Soup Deal Buy a tomato soup and a bag of Bake Rolls and SAVE €1

S AV E €1

HEINZ TOMATO SQUEEZE & STIR SOUP 70g €3

KOSHER/HALAL SNACK BOX €4 SALTED, CRUNCHY PEANUTS €1

Includes: two mini toasts (8g each), one pot of salmon rillette (50g), one mini dark chocolate bar (6g), one shortbread biscuit (11g) and plastic knife

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

Meal Deal Buy any sandwich, pasta or mini chorizo and any hot/soft drink, beer or wine and you’ll get one of the following products FREE: Twix, Snickers, Mars bar, Kit Kat, peanuts, Cake Bar or Belvita Breakfast Biscuit

FREE

TAST Y SNACKS

MINI CHORIZO 80g €4

SALTED PRETZELS 30g €2

CHEESE & BROCCOLI DELI PASTA 75g €4

CHICKEN & MUSHROOM DELI PASTA 75g €4

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE TAST Y SNACKS

BAKE ROLLS €2 garlic/pizza PRINGLES €3

PRODUCT MAY VARY

CROISSANT €2

FRUIT CAKE €2

BREAKFAST BISCUIT €1

NUTELLA & GO €2

T WIX €1

MARS €1

KIT KAT €1

SNICKERS €1

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE SELEC TION VALID ON WIZZ AIR HUNGARY FLIGHTS ONLY

VERSACE WOMAN €30 An inspiring fragrance in harmony with the style of Versace Couture. EDP 100ml

VERSACE DREAMER €20 Sensual and soothing, this combines notes of wild flowers, amber and tobacco. EDT 50ml

ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA REVITALIZE €20 Fresh, sparkling fragrance. EDT 100ml

S BY SHAKIRA FOR WOMEN €20 Oriental floral perfume for a special night out.

EDT 80ml

PACO RABANNE PACO €20 Paco by Paco Rabanne is a fresh, citrus and aromatic fragrance for both sexes.

EDT 100ml

CHOPARD CASMIR €20 Casmir by Chopard is an oriental vanilla fragrance for women. EDT 30ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

HUGO BOSS – DARK BLUE €20 Hugo Boss Dark Blueis an oriental spicy fragrance designed for men who want to experiment and push the boundaries of seduction to the limit. EDT 75ml

LADY GAGA – FAME €30 The first ever black Eau de Parfum, this dark, sensual and light fragrance comes with notes of honey, saffron and amber nectar. Though black, it turns invisible once airborne. EDP 50ml

MOSCHINO UOMO €20 Uomo is a woody, musky fragrance for men.

EDT 75ml

MOSCHINO FUNNY €20 A floral-fruity fragrance for young women.

EDT 50ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

CALVIN KLEIN COFFRET – FOR HIM €40 CK One EDT 10ml, Eternity Man EDT 10ml, Euphoria Man EDT 10ml, CK free EDT 10ml, Encounter EDT 10ml

CALVIN KLEIN COFFRET – FOR HER €40 CK One EDT 10ml, Eternity EDP 5ml, Eternity Aqua EDP 5ml, Euphoria EDP 4ml, Sheer Beauty EDT 5ml

INVICTUS BY PACO RABANNE €48 A fresh and sporty creation compared to the brand’s other fragrances. For men. EDT 50ml

DOWN TOWN CALVIN KLEIN €48 Sophisticated and fresh with a touch of attitude, the Calvin Klein Down Town EDP for women captures the vibrant essence of the urban metropolis. EDP 50ml

GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIO VALUE SET €47 EDT 50ml + Balm 75ml

DKNY – APPLE PICKING COFFRET €42 Be Delicious EDP 7ml, Fresh Blossom EDP 7ml, Fresh Blossom Eau So Intense EDP 7ml, Golden Delicious EDP 7ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

HUGO BOSS RED – FOR HIM €43 HUGO Red is a dynamic fragrance, full of hot and cold tension; it dares you to express your uniqueness. EDP 50ml

HUGO BOSS JOUR – FOR HER €54 Fresh with a combination of accented notes of lime and grapefruit. EDP 50ml

JUST CAVALLI – FOR HIM €45 Sophisticated and refined, this masculine scent possesses a blend of leather notes, giving it an exciting edge. EDT 50ml

JUST CAVALLI – FOR HER €45 Creamy-floral and extremely sexy fragrance for the young and the young at heart. EDT 50ml

PACO RABANNE 1 MILLION €63 An addictive, fresh and spicy fragrance for men. EDT 100ml

PACO RABANNE LADY MILLION €59 Lady Million from Paco Rabanne is a luxurious and seductive fragrance.

EDP 50ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

LANCÔME ABSOLUT VOYAGE PALET TE €59 A complete make-up palette, perfect for travelling.

LANCÔME HYPNOSE DOLL EYES MASCARA €24 For volumised, extended and lifted lashes.

L’ORÉAL – DUO VOLUME MILLION LASHES EXCESS €27 Millionize your lashes with L’Oréal’s new mascara. Complete your trendy look with a free black contour khôl.

LANCÔ ME FLY & KISS ESSENTIAL TRAVEL MAKE-UP SET €19 With black crayon khôl eyeliner, black Hypnose mascara, Bi-Facil make-up remover and Juicy ultra shiny lip gloss.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

OPI NAIL SET €37 Four fashion nail colours and a vanity bag in one set. Travel Retail Exclusive

REVLON – JUST BIT TEN BALM STAIN €20 Gives softer, smoother lips with a perfect flush of colour that lasts hour after hour.

Set Colours: Honey, Rendezvous, Sweetheart (2.7g each).

EYLURE – WARM SMOKEY EYE KIT €19 Achieve professional looks at home with this beauty pack, made up of Gold, Plum and Charcoal shades.

LIP SMACKERS PART Y PACK €11 Six lip balms in your favourite flavours from Coca-Cola.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

ESTELLA BARTLET T NECKLACES €15 EACH Silver-plated wildflower and heart pendants.

BRACELET SWEET DE LUXE €24 Cream-coloured patent leather effect bracelet with a completely clear crystal.

BUY ANY 2 FOR €17

BREO WATCH SET FOR WOMEN €24 A choice of three colours, with soft rubber casing and strap. Dial can be popped in and out of straps. Water resistance depth of 3atm.

ESTELLA BARTLET T – FRIENDSHIP BRACELETS €11 EACH Blue, pink, grey with silver colour, variable size.

Ultra-chic worn alone or together.

ANDRE PIASSO TRI-COLOUR NECKLACE €24 Rhodium, gold and rose gold-plated pendants attached to a rhodium-plated chain.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

BREFFO SMARTPHONE HOLDER €15 The perfect travel partner with ‘Soft Touch’ rubber material. (Phone not included)

TRAVEL BLUE NECK PILLOW €9 Inflatable neck pillow for your comfort while travelling. Made from soft, anti-allergenic, luxury fabric.

EARPHONES €16 Stereo earphones with dual adaptor for shared sound.

COMFORT KIT €12 Contains inflatable pillow, pillow cover, eye mask, ear plugs and a zipped carry pouch.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

HELLO KIT T Y PLUSH TOY €8 Hello Kitty plush toy with a cute pink tartan outfit.

HELLO KIT T Y EDT €22 For little girls who love perfume.

EDT 60ml

W WF PLUSH COLLECTION €24 When you buy these beautiful animals, you contribute to a future in which humans live in harmony with nature. Set of three WWF mini soft plush toys. (10cm each)

DISNEY MICKEY OR MINNIE WATCH €14 The Minnie Mouse flip top LCD watch has flashing lights, while the Mickey Mouse LCD watch includes five different interchangeable discs to change the look of the watch.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

PHONE CHARGER €10 Ready-to-use emergency phone charger kit, including battery.

SUDOKU ULTIMATE GAME €20 Plays over a million puzzles for all skill levels and all ages. With large backlit display.

Batteries included.

iBALL4 – BRAIN TRAINING GAME €21 Electronic game to challenge your speed, memory and skills. Turn out the lights as fast as you can in 60 seconds. Suitable for ages 6 years+

TRAVEL EASY ELITE DIGITAL LUGGAGE SCALE €22 Compact and easy-to-use luggage scale with 50kg/110lb capacity. LCD display and battery included.

TRAVEL STORY CUBES €12 Begin with ‘Far, far away…’ to tell a story that links all nine face-up images. Set contains nine cubes (19mm) with a total of 54 images to spark your imagination. Suitable for ages 6 years+

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

NEW

M&M’ S FUNCANDY €6 Each M&M’s Funcandy is filled with a 20g bag of M&M’s Milk Chocolate.

WIZZ AIR TEDDY BEAR €13 Winter collection Teddy bear with additional little baby bear. Suitable for children of all ages.

HARIBO AIR-PARADE €4 Ideal for sharing!

Travel value. 500g

CHOCOLATE BAG “MINIS” €6 All your favourite chocolates in one bag. 500g

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

MODEL AIRCRAFT €10

REMOTE-CONTROLLED PLANE €19

LONDON TRAVEL – SAVE TIME BY BUYING YOUR TICKETS NOW

El & eph Ca a st nt le

Lo Br nd id on ge

am es lin Lo k Bl nd ac o n kf ria rs

Th ty

London Thameslink stations (LDN)

Adult tickets start at 16 years and above

TO BEDFORD Adult Open Return Adult Open Single Child Open Return Child Open Single

Ci

Luton Airport (LTN)

S In t Pa te nc rn ra at s io na l Fa rri ng do n

rt

€30 €17 €15 €9 €13 €6

Lu Pa ton rk A w ir ay po

TO LONDON Adult Open Return Adult Open Single Child Open Return Child Open Single Weekend Only Fare Weekend Child Fare

†

FIRST CAPITAL CONNECT TRAIN TICKETS:

†

Blackfriars Tube station closed until late 2011

€23 €12 €11 €6

Adult tickets start at 16 years and above

Tickets include shuttle bus from Luton Airport Parkway

PRODUCT SELECTION Due to limited space onboard, we apologise if your choice is no longer available when you order your preferred food and beverages. Product selection may vary from country to country.

PAYMENT Cash payments can be made in Euro (bank notes of up to €100 value and coins of €1 and €2).

Other currencies accepted (Bank notes only): British Pound (excluding Scottish Pound), Bulgarian Lev on Bulgarian flights, Czech Koruna on Czech flights, Hungarian Forints on Hungarian flights, Lithuanian Litas on Lithuanian flights, Macedonian Denar on Macedonian flights, Polish Zloty and Norwegian Krone on Polish flights, Romanian Leu on Romanian flights, Serbian Dinar on Serbian flights and Swedish Krona on Swedish flights.

All prices are quoted in Euro as the base currency. Change will be given in Euro unless local currency is available. Passengers are prohibited from consuming alcoholic beverages that they have supplied themselves. Please make sure that you receive a receipt for your purchase!

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15/01/2014 14:28

No.91506 The Polish Bakery.indd 1

18/07/2013 17:23

No.92542 ALPi.indd 1

02/12/2013 15:54