Excursion to Poland

From Soviet Union to eUropean Union poLiS eXCUrSion 2012 poLanD tUeSDay 13 - SatUrDay 17 november 2012 P

O

L

I

S

WarSaW

in aSSoCiation With

poznan

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TA B L E O F CO NT E NTS

Committee 05 Important information 05 Participants 06 Polis study trip to Poland 09 Train schedule 10 Train route 11 Program 12 Poznan facts 14 Warsaw facts 15 Poznan 22 - program 22 - a brief history 25 - tour/projects 31 Warsaw 36 - program 36 - a brief history 40 - tour/projects 42 Polish for dummies

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Notes 58 Eat drink and go out

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City maps 68

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EXCU R SI O N CO MM I T T E E

Josephine van Lohuizen +31(0)610249068

Djawid Tahery +31(0)613359484

Thomas Verhoeven +31(0)6

Ard Jan Wolters +31(0)613618663

Important information Hostel Poznan Cinnamon Hostel Gwarna 10 tel. +48 61 851 57 57

Emergency Police 997 (112 via mobile) Ambulance 999 Travel times Departure Amsterdam tuesday 13/11 19:01 Arrival Poznan wednesday 14/11 7:55

Hostel Warsaw Chillout Hostel Poznańska 7 tel. +48 22 409 98 8

Departure Warsaw saturday 17/11 Arrival Eindhoven saturday 17/11

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13:30 15:30

PA R T IC IPANT S

Jiya Benni +31(0)637170336

Emilia Bruck +31(0)

Kitty Busscher +31(0)

Jiaxiu Cai +31(0)623034299

Arjan Dekkers +31(0)

Victor van Elburg +31(0)

Christiaan van Es +31(0)655696464

Xia Hua +31(0)611105805

Liu Jiayao +31(0)649992817

Karlijn Kokhuis +31(0)630254228

Kevin van der Linden +31(0)628659101

Verali von Meijenfeldt +31(0)

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Peter Nolten +31(0)

Nora Prins +31(0)619212834

Roland Reen +31(0)649774640

Andrew Reynolds +31(0)

Karl Samuelsson +31(0)

Rosa Schouten +31(0)

Yuting Tai +31(0)

Charissa Telgt

Simone Waaijer +31(0)

Photo by Gert-Jan Rossaert

SPECIAL GUESTS

Fanying Zhang +31(0)611781729

drs. ir. MaartenJan Hoekstra Researcher & Tutor, TU Delft -7-

Edyta Wisniewska architect - urban designer @ KuiperCompagnons

Honorata Grzesikowska urban designer @ KuiperCompagnons

ICELAND

km 0

200

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NORWAY

FINLAND SWEDEN ESTONIA

LATVIA

DENMARK IRELAND

RUSSIA

LITHUANIA

UNITED KINGDOM

RUSSIA

NETHERLANDS

Berlin Amsterdam

Poznan

GERMANY

BELGIUM

Warsaw

BELARUS

POLAND CZECH REPUBLIC

UKRAINE SLOVAKIA

FRANCE

SWITZ.

AUSTRIA

HUNGARY ROMANIA

BULGARIA

ITALY

PORTUGAL

SPAIN

GREECE

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P O L IS E X CU R SI O N T O PO L A N D

F R OM S O V IE T UNI ON T O E URO PEA N U N I ON MISSION Every year study association Polis organizes excursions and events with this year a big excursion to Poland. With this excursion there are three points of focus: 1 We want to be inspired; 2 We want to learn about developments in other countries; 3 Meet new people to build our network.

In this line we want to see different projects, methods and approaches in urbanism. We want to learn about the relation between the government and urbanism. And we want to network with governments, companies and different students.

VISION The master track urbanism of the TU Delft has been internationally recommended for years. Ambitious, critical and above all enthusiastic students are being prepared for the future. After graduation, it is the meaning that they all find their place in practice. An important aim of the student association Polis is to make those students acquainted with this practice and show them actual issues that play a role in society.

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STRATEGY The group of participants consists out of 26 national and international master students including graduates.

Out of our connection with Kuiper Compagnons, Edyta Wisniewska accompanies us and uses her connections to make this a successful trip. Another guest joining from KuiperCompagnons is Honorata Grzesikowska. Also Maarten Jan Hoekstra, researcher and teacher on the TU Delft, is a member of our group. With this excursion to Poland we expect to see state of the art projects, but also see the history of Polish cities. We want to learn about the relation of the Polish government and urbanism. Especially the changes of the last decades, the transformation from a more Soviet oriented to a more European oriented Poland. Of course, it will be a sociable excursion with an emphasis on integration and fun!

T R AI N T I ME S C H E D U L E

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Hannover

Berlin

Arnhem Utrecht

Emmerich Duisburg

Bielefeld Hamm

no Ku t

in

Ko n

Rz ep i

n

NL

Amsterdam

PO ZN AN

(fi r

st

st

op

)

TRA IN ROU T E

WARSAW (second stop)

POLAND

Dortmund Wuppertal

Cologne

GERMANY

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PR O G R A M

TUESDAY 13.11.2012 18:30 Meeting point:

Amsterdam Central Station

(look for The Hero on a stick!)

19:01 Departure night train to Poznan,

platform 8b WEDNESDAY 14.11.2012 07:55 Arrival Poznan 09:00 Check-in Cinnamon Hostel 09:30 Breakfast 10:00 Start program, walk to central

market square 11:00-13:30

Four presentations about Poznan

developments at market square 13:30 Lunch 14:00 Site visit KuiperCompagnons

project, Stary Browar, Old city?

18:00 End program, brake at hostel 19:00- Diner/free night (+students from Poznan?) (sleeping in Poznan, Cinnamon Hostel) THURSDAY 15.11.2012 08:00 Breakfast 09:00 City Park, Rataje?

13:25 Departure from Poznan main

train station to Warsaw 17:00 Arrival Warsaw 17:30 Check-in Chill Out Hostel 18:00 Diner/free night (+students from Warsaw?) (sleeping in Warsaw, Chill Out Hostel) - 12 -

FRIDAY 16.11.2012 08:00 Breakfast 09:30- 11:30

Presentation at Palace of Culture

and Science 11:30 Business district developments,

neighbourhood Osiedle za

Zelazna Brama, Keret House, old town?

13:30 Lunch at old town 14:00 Visit Centre Kopernika, Wisla

river zone, Euro 2012 stadium, Praga?

18:00 End program, break @ hostel 19:00 Diner 20:00 Polis drink night (sleeping in Warsaw, Chill Out Hostel) SATURDAY 17.11.2012 08:00 Breakfast 09:00 Free hour 10:30 To airport, flight to Holland 13:30 Departure Warsaw 15:30 Arrival Eindhoven 16:00 Goodbye!

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POZNAN FACTS

Poznań (Latin: Posnania; German: Posen) is

a city on the Warta river in west-central Poland, with a population of 551,627 in the end of 2010.

It is among the oldest cities in Poland, and was one of the most important centres in the early Polish state, whose first rulers were buried at Poznań’s cathedral. It is sometimes claimed to be the first capital of the kingdom of Poland.

Poznań is now Poland’s fifth largest city. It is the historical capital of the Wielkopolska (“Greater Poland”) region, and is currently the administrative capital of the province called Greater Poland Voivodeship.

Poznań is an important centre of trade, industry, and education, and hosts regular international trade fairs. It was the host city

for the United Nations Climate Change Conference in December 2008, a key stage in the creation of a successor to the Kyoto Protocol. Poznań was one of the host cities for the association football tournament UEFA Euro 2012. source: wikipedia.com

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WA RS A W F ACT S

Warsaw (Polish: Warszawa) is the capital and

largest city of Poland. It is located on the Vistula River, roughly 260 kilometres (160 mi) from the Baltic Sea and 300 kilometres (190 mi) from the Carpathian Mountains.

Its population is estimated at 1,708,491 residents within a greater metropolitan area of 2,666,278 residents, making Warsaw the 9th most populous city proper in the European Union. The area of the city covers 516.9 square kilometres (199.6 sq mi), while the city's agglomeration covers 6,100.43 square kilometres (2,355.39 sq mi).

Warsaw is an Alpha- global city, a major international tourist destination and an important economic hub in Central Europe. It is also known as the "phoenix city" because it has survived many wars throughout its history.

Most notably, the city had to be painstakingly rebuilt after the extensive damage it suffered

from World War II, during which 85% of its buildings were destroyed. On 9 November 1940 the city was awarded Poland's highest military decoration for heroism, the Virtuti Militari, for the Siege of Warsaw (1939).

Source: wikipedia.com

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PO Z N A N

hostel

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WA RS A W

hostel

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PO Z N A N

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WA RS A W

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POZ NAN CI NNAM O N H O S T E L

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WA RS A W CH I L L O U T H O S T E L

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P O Z N A N - P R O G R AM

WEDNESDAY 14.11.2012 07:55 Arrival Poznan 09:00 Check-in Cinnamon Hostel 09:30 Breakfast 10:00 Start program, walk to central

market square 11:00-13:30 Presentations at market square about Poznan developments 13:30 Lunch 14:00 Old City, Stary Browar, site visit

KuiperCompagnons project 18:00 End program, brake at hostel 19:00- Diner/free night (+students from Poznan?) (sleeping in Poznan, Cinnamon Hostel) THURSDAY 15.11.2012 08:00 Breakfast 09:00 City Park, Old stadium, Rataje 13:25 Departure from Poznan main

train station to Warsaw

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PO ZNAN -

WEDNESDAY

Hostel 1. Old Town

Train station

3. River project KuiperC.

2. Stary Browar

t o t al d i st a n c e ~ 8 k m - 23 -

P O ZNAN -

THURSDAY

Hostel To City Park?

Rataje

total distance rataje (to and from) ~7km - 24 -

POZNAN - BRIEF HISTORY The history of Poznań and the history of Poland were much the same thing in the nation’s earliest days. The city was founded as a 9th-century settlement on the easily defensible island of Ostrów Tumski, during the reign of Poland’s first ruler, Duke Mieszko I. Some historians even claim that it was here, not in Gniezno, that the duke’s baptism took place in 966.

Mieszko’s son, the first Polish king, Bolesław Chrobry, further strengthened the island, and the troops of the Holy Roman Empire that conquered the region in 1005 didn’t even bother to lay siege to it. The Bohemian Prince Bratislav (Brzetysław), however, liked a challenge and damaged the town considerably in 1038. This marked the end for Poznań as the royal seat (though kings were buried here until 1296), as subsequent rulers chose Kraków as their home.

Poznań continued to develop as a commercial centre – in 1253 a new town centre was laid out on the left bank of the Warta River. Soon afterwards a castle was built and the town was encircled with defensive walls. Poznań’s trade flourished during the Renaissance period, and by the end of the 16th century the population had passed the 20,000 mark.

But into every city’s life a little rain must fall. From the mid-17th century on, Swedish, Prussian and Russian invasions, together with a series of natural disasters, battered the city. In the Second Partition - 25 -

of 1793, Poznań fell under Prussian occupation and was renamed Posen, later becoming part of Germany and experiencing steady industrial growth up to the outbreak of WWI. The Wielkopolska Insurrection, which broke out in Poznań in December 1918, led to the city’s addition to the newly reformed Polish state (see boxed text, p375 ). Poznań’s long trading traditions were then revived with the establishment of regular trade fairs in 1921.

The city fell into German hands once more during WWII, and was incorporated into Hitler’s Third Reich.

In 1945, the battle for its liberation took a month and did a huge amount of damage.

In the postwar era, Poznań was one of the first cities to feel the forceful hand of the communist regime, during a massive workers strike in June 1956.

The spontaneous demonstration, cruelly crushed by tanks, turned out to be the first of a wave of popular protests on the long and painful road to overcoming communist rule.

Since the return of democracy, Poznań has taken advantage of its business traditions and favourable location near Germany to develop its role as an important educational and industrial centre.

POZNAN

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HOST E L

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R I V E R PR O J E C T

OL D TO W N

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1. OL D T O W N O F P O Z N A N Poznań Old Town (photo left) is a central neighbourhood of the city of Poznań in western Poland, covering the area of the walled medieval city of Poznań. It is called Stare Miasto in Polish (although that name may also refer to the wider administrative district of Stare Miasto, which extends to most of the city centre and northern parts of the city).

The original settlement of Poznań was on the river island of Ostrów Tumski, and dates from at least the 9th century.

The Old Town neighbourhood, however, corresponds to the city on the left bank of the Warta, to the west of Ostrów Tumski, which received its charter in 1253 (work on the Royal Castle, which would be at the western side of the ring of walls, began several years earlier).

The city walls were taken down when the city expanded in the early 19th century, but the street layout of the Old Town still corresponds closely to that of the former walled city, with a grid of narrow streets.

Surviving fragments of the walls, some of which have been further reconstructed, can be seen on ul. Stawna and ul.

Masztalarska in the north, and next to Chopin Park in the south.

The Old Town is centred on Stary Rynek, the Old Market Square. The historic Town Hall (Ratusz) stands in the middle of that square. At the western end of the Old Town is the hill (Góra Przemysła) on which the castle stood.

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The Old Market Square (Stary Rynek) is the large square on which the Old Town neighbourhood is centred.

The sides of the square measure approximately 140 metres (460 ft).

There is a group of buildings in the central part of the square, chief of which is the Old Town Hall (Ratusz).

On each side of the square are tall rows of former tenement houses (kamienice), many of which are now used as restaurants, cafés and pubs (often with outdoor tables on the square itself). The square was originally laid out in around 1253, with each side divided into 16 equal plots, and many changes to architectural layout and style were made over the centuries.

Major changes were made from 1550 onwards by Giovanni Battista di Quadro, who reconstructed the Town Hall and several other buildings in Renaissance style (severe damage had been done to the buildings by a fire of 1536). Most of the buildings in the square were reconstructed following heavy damage in the Battle of Poznań (1945). (source: wikipedia.com)

2. S TA R Y B R O WAR

Stary Browar Shopping, Arts and Business Center “Stary Browar” - the center of commerce and art, built in November 2003, located in the center of Poznan at 42 Półwiejska Street.

The center is a combination of retail space and an art gallery. The shopping center is adjacent to a Class A high-rise office complex. The total area of the center is around 130 000 m². The Old Brewery is home to around 210 stores and restaurants. The building was designed on the basis of a historic factory - the former Brewery Huggerów - by Studio ADS. The investor was Fortis, a company owned by Grazyna Kulczyk. The décor was designed by stage designer Ryszard Kaja. It is notable for preserving the original architecture and style.

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3. R IV E R P R O J E CT

Development Strategy River Warta in Poznan KuiperCompagnons has been granted the Dutch “Wereldwijd werken met water” subsidy (“dealing with water worldwide”), together with DHV engineers, to draw up a development strategy for the river zone of Warta river in Poznan. The Municipality of Poznan and SwedeCenter participate in the project.

In recent years the city of Poznan has experienced heavy floods from the River Warta. The most recent occurring in May 2010. These floods revealed the necessity for interventions that need to be taken in order to improve the safety of the River Warta in Poznan. Also in the last decades the City of Poznan has turned its back to the river. In the current situation the - 33 -

river can be regarded as an unattractive area in the centre of this appealing City. The river zone has tremendous possibilities to add qualities to the living environment of Poznan.

The Objective of the Project is to arrive at the Development Strategy for the River Warta within the city of Poznan, in which interventions to increase the water safety of the river are combined and integrated with interventions to increase the urban quality of the living environment for the people of Poznan in a sustainable manner. source: KuiperCompagnons

4. CIT Y PAR K

City Park City Park is a recently developed apartment complex, hotel and shopping center in Poznan. It is located in Grunwald streets in the area of Military-WyspiańskiUlanska. Located in the vicinity of the Poznan Hala arena and the city park. In view of the historical significance of the place (the old barracks of Lancers), the city invested to restore the buildings.

Residential architecture refers to the existing historic buildings there both in the military facade elements (mostly red brick), and architectural details.

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5. R ATAJ E

Rataje neighbourhood Rataje is a large residential area in the eastern part of the city of Poznań in western Poland. It contains a number of housing estates, consisting mainly of prefabricated concrete panel blocks, housing a total of approximately 90,000 people (about one sixth of the city’s total population).

The former village of Rataje was situated close to the right bank of the river Warta, and was incorporated into the city of Poznań in 1925. Building of the new estates began in the late 1960s, the first block being completed in 1967.

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WA RS A W - P R O G R AM

THURSDAY 15.11.2012 13:25 Departure from Poznan main

train station to Warsaw 17:00 Arrival Warsaw 17:30 Check-in Chill Out Hostel 18:00 Diner/free night (sleeping in Warsaw, Chill Out Hostel) FRIDAY 16.11.2012 08:00 Breakfast 09:30- 11:30

Presentation at Palace of

Culture and Science 11:30 Business district developments,

neighbourhood Osiedle za

Zelazna Brama, old town?

13:30 Lunch at old town 14:00 Visit Centre Kopernika, Wisla

river zone, Euro 2012 stadium, Praga?

18:00 End program, break @ hostel 19:00 Diner 20:00 Polis drink night (sleeping in Warsaw, Chill Out Hostel) SATURDAY 17.11.2012 08:00 Breakfast 09:00 Free hour 10:30 To airport, flight to Holland 13:30 Departure Warsaw 15:30 Arrival Eindhoven 16:00 Goodbye!

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W AR SAW - PR O G R A M

8. Praga?

train

Old Town

6. Centre Kopernika + Wisla riverzone 4. Keret house

Diner/ Going out

7. Stadium

3. Osiedle Za Zelazna Brama

2. Business district 1.Palace of Culture

Hostel

t o t al d i st a n c e ~ 1 3 k m - 37 -

map of w

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warsaw

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WA RS A W - A B R I E F H I S T O R Y

Warsaw’s history has more ups and downs than a jejunum. But like the very essence of the Polish character, it has managed to return from the brink of destruction time and time again.

The first semblance of a town only sprang up around the beginning of the 14th century when the dukes of Mazovia built a stronghold on the site of the present Royal Castle. In 1413 the dukes chose Warsaw as their seat of power, and things went swimmingly for over 100 years until, in 1526, the last duke died without an heir.

The burgeoning town – and the whole of Mazovia – fell under direct rule of the king in Kraków and was incorporated into royal territory.

Warsaw’s fortunes took a turn for the better after the unification of Poland and Lithuania in 1569, when the Sejm (the lower house of parliament) voted to make Warsaw the seat of its debates, because of its central position. The ultimate ennoblement came in 1596 when King Zygmunt III Waza decided to move his capital from Kraków to Warsaw.

The Swedish invasion from 1655 to 1660 was not kind to Warsaw, but it swiftly recovered and continued to develop.

Paradoxically, the 18th century – a period of catastrophic decline for the Polish state – witnessed Warsaw’s greatest prosperity. A wealth of palaces and churches was erected,

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View from the Royal Castle, Warsaw (1773)

and cultural and artistic life flourished, particularly during the reign of the last Polish king, Stanisław August Poniatowski.

In 1795 the city’s prosperity was again shattered – following the partition of Poland, its status was reduced to that of a provincial town. When Napoleon rolled into town in 1806 on his way to defeat in

After WWI Warsaw was reinstated as the capital of independent Poland and the urban development and industrialisation begun in the late 19th-century continued.

By 1939, the city had grown to 1.3 million, of whom 380,000 were Jews who had traditionally made up a significant part of Warsaw’s community. German bombs began to fall on 1 September 1939 and a week later the city was besieged; despite brave resistance, Warsaw fell within a month. The conquerors instantly set about terrorising the local population with arests, executions and deportations, and a Jewish Ghetto was swiftly built.

The city rebelled against the Germans twice, first in April 1943 and second in August 1944. Both rebellions were ruthlessly crushed.

Russia, things started looking up – the warring Frenchman created the Duchy of Warsaw and the city became a capital once more. The celebrations were brief however, as in 1815 Warsaw, and the rest of Poland, fell under Russian rule. The Varsovians rebelled against their rulers in 1830 and 1864, but the city remained in Russian hands until WWI.

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At the end of the war the city of Warsaw lay in ruins and 800,000 people – more than half of the prewar population – had perished. (By comparison, the total military casualties for US forces in WWII was 400,000, for UK forces 326,000.) A massive rebuilding project was undertaken soon after and despite over 40 years of communist rule the city once again regathered its strength and is now enjoying an unprecedented period of economic growth.

WA RS A W - AR CH I T E C T U R E The shape of modern day Warsaw is ultimately a result of the vast damage it had suffered in the World War II, the subsequent reconstruction, remodelling and the growth of the city in the next decades. Even the Old Town is in fact new. The façades of burgher houses were meticulously reconstructed, but everything behind them was adapted to contemporary standards.

The war didn’t however affect many of the buildings erected in the 20s and the 30s, when Warsaw was booming as the capital of the republic. This resulted in the construction of numerous monumental public ediffices (National Museum, BGK Bank headquarters, SGH college, various ministries), first skyscrapers (Prudential House), ultra-modern sport facilities (AWF sports college in Bielany area and the racing track in Służewiec) and entire new neighbourhoods with luxury villas and apartment houses as well as affordable co-operative housing (Żoliborz, Saska Kępa). All of these represent a wide range of styles – from romantic ‘manor house’-style, evoking Polish country life, to extreme avantgarde.

Immediately after the war, the city started to fill not only with reconstructed buildings, but also with entirely new ediffices, catering to the needs of the new, communist regime. The Palace of Culture and Science and new housing district MDM (around Plac Konstytucji) conformed strictly to the ‘socialist realist’ style imposed on Polish architects by the Soviets, but the parliament (Sejm)

buildings and, somewhat ironically, the communist party headquarters (Dom Partii) managed to escape the formula.

In post-war decades, in spite of insufficient funding, material shortages and substantial amount of red tape, many innovative and attractive structures were erected. Some of them, like Ochota and Powiśle train stations or the French Embassy, were recently restored to their former glory, others (Central Department Store, the Rotunda pavilion, Emilia furniture store, Central Station) still wait for a revamp.

In the past twenty years, Warsaw, as the capital of democratic Poland, has been its biggest construction site. New embassies were built – the most interesting ones for the Netherlands, Germany, and the UK, along with high-end (Agora publishing house headquarters and Norman Foster’s Metropolitan) and high-rise office buildings, as well as public ediffices (the Stock Exchange, Warsaw University Library, Supreme Court).

Warsaw is thus a 20th and 21st century child, but it also boasts some magnificent architecture from earlier periods. These can be seen along the Royal Route (Trakt Królewski) and in its vicinity. Baroque and rococco are best represented there. Their hail from a time when Warsaw flourished thanks to aristocracy. Since 1596, when the seat of Polish kings has been moved here, every noble family eager to have influence on national politics had to maintain a residence here and perhaps fund a church.

The most splendid palace from that period include the present Presidential Palace, the Ostrogski Palace (currently Chopin

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Museum) and Krasiński Palace. In the immediate vicinity of the Royal Route one can also find traces of the prosperity enjoyed by Warsaw in the times of the last king of Poland – Stanisław August (late 19th century). His Royal Łazienki Park or the Lutheran church in plac Małachowskiego rank among the most accomplished works of classical revival style in Poland. The period between 1815 and 1830, when Warsaw was the capital of the puppet Kingdom of Poland, controlled

by Russia, was a time of constructing public buildings, among them the palaces in Plac Bankowy, the Polish Academy of Sciences and the truly grand Grand Theatre (all three designed by Antonio Corazzi).

Warsaw’s architecture is a diverse mix of styles and talents: modern buildings rub shoulders with historical landmarks – whether reconstructed or miraculously preserved. But the most exciting thing is the constant and rapid change it is undergoing, which means that everytime you visit, there is something new to be discovered. In a few years time we will marvel at Christian Kerez’s Museum of Modern Art, located at the foot of the Palace of Culture and Science, and the Jewish Museum designed by Finland’s Lahdelma & Mahlamaki. But even today, standing at Świętokrzyski bridge, one can see several buildings that will open shortly; on the left bank: the Copernicus Science Centre, the old power plant awaiting conversion and the freshly finished Chopin Centre. On the other side of the River, the National Stadion is coming up rapidly. The banks of Vistula, hithertoo neglected, are becoming a showcase for contemporary architecture. source: warsawtour.pl - 43 -

1. PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE

Project Pałac Kultury i Nauki

(Palace of Culture and Science) Construction 1955 Height: 237m (antenna spire)

188m (roof height) The Palace of Culture and Science (Polish: Pałac Kultury i Nauki, also abbreviated PKiN) in Warsaw is the tallest building in Poland, the eighth tallest building in the European Union. The building was originally known as the Joseph Stalin Palace of Culture and Science (Pałac Kultury i Nauki imienia Józefa Stalina), but in the wake of destalinization the dedication to Stalin was revoked; Stalin’s name was removed from the interior lobby and one of the building’s sculptures.

Currently it is the 187th tallest building in the world.

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2. BUSINESS DISTRICT

The area around the Palace of Culture and Science is the business district where Warsaw is showcasing its skyline.

With towers like ZĹ‚ota 44 (192m) and the Palace it is becoming an impressive skyline.

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3 . Z A Z E L AZNA B R A M A Project Za Żelazną Bramą (The Iron Gate) Architects Jerzy Czyz, John Furman, Andrew Skopiński Construction 1965 Built to replace the destroyed Jewish ghetto from before WWII. It was a functionalist large scale apartment neighbourhood, and nowadays is being restructured by adding new buildings between the large apartmentblocks. Its location is right next to the business center.

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4. KE RE T H O U SE Project Keret House, Zélazna street Architect Jakub Szczęsny Construction 2012 Smallest house in the world.

1.52m wide

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5. OL D TO WN

Warsaw’s Old Town (photo left) was established in the 13th century. Initially surrounded by an earthwork rampart, prior to 1339 it was fortified with brick city walls. The town originally grew up around the castle of the Dukes of Mazovia that later became the Royal Castle. The Market Square (Rynek Starego Miasta) was laid out sometime in the late 13th or early 14th century, along the main road linking the castle with the New Town to the north.

Until 1817 the Old Town’s most notable feature was the Town Hall built before 1429.

In 1701 the square was rebuilt by Tylman Gamerski, and in 1817 the Town Hall was demolished. Since the 19th century, the four sides of the Market Square have borne the names of four notable Poles who once lived on the respective sides: Ignacy Zakrzewski (south), Hugo Kołłątaj (west), Jan Dekert (north) and Franciszek Barss (east).

In 1918 the Royal Castle once again became the seat of Poland’s highest authorities: the President of Poland and his chancellery.

In the late 1930s, during the mayoralty of Stefan Starzyński, the municipal authorities began refurbishing the Old Town and restoring it to its former glory. The Barbican and the Old Town Market Place were partly restored. These efforts, however, were brought to an end by the outbreak of World War II.

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During the Invasion of Poland (1939), much of the district was badly damaged by the German Luftwaffe, which targeted the city’s residential areas and historic landmarks in a campaign of terror bombing.Following the Siege of Warsaw, parts of the Old Town were rebuilt, but immediately after the Warsaw Uprising (AugustOctober 1944) what had been left standing was systematically blown up by the German Army. A statue commemorating the Uprising, “the Little Insurgent,” now stands on the Old Town’s medieval city wall.

After World War II, the Old Town was meticulously rebuilt.As many of the original bricks were reused as possible. The rubble was sifted for reusable decorative elements, which were reinserted into their original places. Bernardo Bellotto’s 18thcentury vedute, as well as pre-WorldWar II architecture students’ drawings, were used as essential sources in the reconstruction effort. (source: wikipedia.com)

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6. C OPE RNI CU S CE N T E R

Copernicus Science Center (Polish: Centrum Nauki Kopernik) is a science museum standing on the bank of the Vistula River in Warsaw. It contains over 450 interactive exhibits that enable visitors to single-handedly carry out experiments and discover the laws of science for themselves. The Center is the largest institution of its type in Poland and one of the most advanced in Europe. On 25 September 2012 the Center celebrated its two-millionth visitor.

The center has a green roof and the first module of the Centre building was opened on 5 November 2010 with five galleries.

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7 . STA D I U M

National Stadium Warsaw The stadium has a seating capacity of 58,500 which makes it the largest association football arena in Poland. Its construction started in 2008 and finished in November 2011. It is located on the site of the former 10th-Anniversary Stadium, on al. Zieleniecka in Praga Południe district, near the city center. The stadium has a retractable PVC roof which unfolds from a nest on a spire suspended above the centre of the pitch.

The National Stadium hosted the opening match (a group match), the 2 group matches, a quarterfinal, and the semifinal of the UEFA Euro 2012, co-hosted by Poland and Ukraine.

The stadium is equipped with a heated pitch, training pitch, façade lighting, and underground parking. It is a multipurpose venue able to host sporting events, concerts, cultural events, and conferences.

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8. PR A GA

Praga District Through the centuries, Warsaw’s rightbank – the area called Praga – was an independent town, and it became formally attached to Warsaw only in the late 18th century. For years it was a secondary part of the city that survived the devastation of war, with three different religions (Catholicism, Orthodoxy and Judaism) peacefully co-existing. Today it is a fascinating district, overflowing with artistic studios, galleries, alternative theaters and underground clubs. Thanks to this infusion of cool culture, many of the surviving postindustrial buildings have been turned into cultural centres, cinemas, galleries and pubs. But it is also in Praga that we can find many streets which were undamaged during World War II, and so there are some beautiful pre-war lamp-posts, sidewalks and apartment blocks.

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P O L ISH F O R D U M MI ES CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS Hello.

Dzień dobry. jyen do·bri Goodbye.

Do widzenia. do vee·dze·nya Yes. Tak. tak No. Nie. nye Please.

Proszę. pro·she Thank you.

Dziękuję. jyen·koo·ye You’re welcome.

Proszę. pro·she Excuse me.

Przepraszam. pshe·pra·sham Sorry.

Przepraszam. pshe·pra·sham I like ...

Lubię ... loo·bye ...

I don’t like ...

Nie lubię ... nye loo·bye ...

Just a minute.

Chwileczkę. hfee·lech·ke What’s your name?

Jak masz na imię? yak mash na ee·mye My name is ...

Mam na imię ... mam na ee·mye ...

I’m from ...

Jestem z ... yes·tem s ...

Where are you from?

Skąd pan/pani jest? skont pan/pa·nee yest (pol, m/f) Skąd jesteś? skont yes·tesh (inf) DIRECTIONS Where is ...?

Gdzie jest ...? gjye yest ...

Go straight ahead.

Proszę iść prosto. pro·she eeshch pros·to Turn left.

Proszę skręcić w lewo. pro·she skren·cheech fle·vo Turn right.

Proszę skręcić w prawo. pro·she skren·cheech fpra·vo at the corner na rogu na ro·goo at the traffic lights na światłach na shfya·twah

LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES Do you speak English?

Czy pan/pani mówi chi pan/pa·nee moo·vee po angielsku? po an·gyel·skoo (m/f) Does anyone here speak English?

Czy ktoś tu mówi chi ktosh too moo·vee po angielsku? po an·gyel·skoo How do you say ...?

Jak się mówi ...? yak she moo·vee ...

What does it mean?

Co to znaczy? tso to zna·chi I understand.

Rozumiem. ro·zoo·myem I don’t understand.

Nie rozumiem. nye ro·zoo·myem ACCOMMODATION Where can I find a ...?

Gdzie mogę znaleźć ...? gjye mo·ge zna·leshch ... guesthouse pensjonat pen·syo·nat hotel hotel ho·tel youth hostel schronisko młodzieżowe sro·nees·ko mwo·jye·zho·ve Where is a cheap hotel?

Gdzie jest tani hotel? gjye yest ta·nee ho·tel What is the address?

Jaki jest adres? ya·kee yest ad·res Please write down the address.

Proszę to napisać. pro·she to na·pee·sach I’d like (a) ...

Poproszę o ... po·pro·she o ... bed łóżko woosh·ko single room pokój jednoosobowy po·kooy yed·no·o·so·bo·vi double bed podwójnym łóżkiem pod·vooy·nim woosh·kyem room pokój po·kooy room with a bathroom pokój z łazienką po·kooy s wa·zhen·kom to share a dorm łóżko w sali zbiorowej woosh·ko fsa·lee zbyo·ro·vey How much is it per night?

Ile kosztuje za noc? ee·le kosh·too·ye za nots May I see it?

Czy mogę go zobaczyć? chi mo·ge go zo·ba·chich Where is the bathroom?

Gdzie jest łazienka? gjye yest wa·zhen·ka

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Where is the toilet?

Gdzie są toalety? gjye som to·a·le·ti I’m leaving today.

Wyjeżdżam dziś. vi·yesh·jyam jyeesh Could you write it down, please?

Proszę to napisać. pro·she to na·pee·sach Can you show me (on the map)?

Proszę mi pokazać pro·she mee po·ka·zach (na mapie). (na ma·pye) HEALTH I’m ill.

Jestem chory/a. yes·tem ho·ri/a (m/f) It hurts here.

Tutaj mnie boli. too·tay mnye bo·lee I’m asthmatic/epileptic.

Mam astmę/epilepsję. mam as·tme/e·pee·lep·sye I’m diabetic.

Jestem diabetykiem. yes·tem dya·be·ti·kyem I’m allergic to ...

Mam uczulenie na ... mam oo·choo·le·nye na ... antibiotics antybiotyki an·ti·byo·ti·kee penicillin penicylinę pe·nee·tsi·lee·ne bees pszczoły pshcho·wi antiseptic antyseptyczny an·ti·sep·tich·ni aspirin aspiryna as·pee·ri·na condoms kondomy kon·do·mi contraceptive środek anty- shro·dek an·ti· koncepcyjny kon·tsep·tsiy·ni diarrhoea biegunka bye·goon·ka medicine lek lek nausea mdłości mdwosh·chee sunblock cream krem do opalania krem do o·pa·la·nya tampons tampony tam·po·ni EMERGENCIES Help!

Na pomoc! na po·mots It’s an emergency.

To jest nagły przypadek. to yest na·gwi pshi·pa·dek

I’m lost.

Zgubiłem się.

Zgubiłam się.

Leave me alone!

Proszę odejść!

Call ...!

Proszę wezwać ...! a doctor lekarza the police policję

zgoo·bee·wem she (m) zgoo·bee·wam she (f) pro·she o·deyshch pro·she vez·vach ... le·ka·zha po·lee·tsye

SHOPPING & SERVICES I’d like to buy ...

Chcę kupić ... htse koo·peech ...

How much is it?

Ile to kosztuje? ee·le to kosh·too·ye I don’t like it.

Nie podoba mi się. nye po·do·ba mee she May I look at it?

Czy mogę to zobaczyć? chi mo·ge to zo·ba·chich I’m just looking.

Tylko oglądam. til·ko o·glon·dam It’s expensive.

To jest drogie. to yest dro·gye I’ll take it.

Wezmę to. vez·me to Can I pay by credit card?

Czy mogę zapłacić chi mo·ge za·pwa·cheech kartą kredytową? kar·tom kre·di·to·vom TRANSPORT What time does the ... leave/arrive?

O której odchodzi/przychodzi ...? o ktoo·rey ot·ho·jee/pshi·ho·jee ... bus autobus aw·to·boos train pociąg po·chonk I’d like a ... ticket.

Poproszę bilet ... po·pro·she bee·let ... one-way w jedną stronę fyed·nom stro·ne return powrotny po·vrot·ni I want to go to ...

Chcę jechać do ... htse ye·hach do ...

I’d like to hire a ...

Chcę wypożyczyć ... htse vi·po·zhi·chich ... bicycle rower ro·ver car samochód sa·mo·hoot motorbike motocykl mo·to·tsikl

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In case you are lost: find your way

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you are here..!

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Notes

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Notes

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P O Z N A N E AT D R I NK A N D G O O U T If you arrive in Poznań any evening and stroll into its central market square, you’ll receive an instant introduction to the characteristic energy of Wielkopolska’s capital. The city’s Old Town district is buzzing at any time of the day, and positively jumping by night, full of people heading to its many restaurants, pubs and clubs. (www.lonelyplanet.com)

4. Restauracja Delicja One of Poznań’s top restaurants, tucked away off Plac Wolności, the Delicja has its own miniature courtyard and an illustrious reputation for top-notch international cuisine along French-Italian lines.

Refinement and elegance are de rigueur.

To eat...

5. Proletaryat Bright red communist-nostalgia bar with an array of socialist-era gear on the walls, including military insignia, portraits of Brezhnev and Marx, and the obligatory bust of Lenin in the window. Play ‘spot the communist leader’ while sipping a boutique beer from the Czarnków Brewery.

1. Bar Mamamija Dragging the traditional bar mleczny firmly into the 1970s, students and snackers alike dig this retro joint’s rainbow paint job and kidney-shaped tables. Pasta, stroganoff and other fads join the usual suspects on the budget menu.

2. Mezzoforte Funky restaurant with a mosaic-tiled bar and bright orange walls decorated with giant poppy designs. The menu contains an array of pizzas and pastas, alongside photos of two customers enjoying their meal together just a little too much. From 9pm you can trek downstairs to enjoy Poznań’s smallest nightclub – good luck finding enough space to dance!

3. Tapas Bar This atmospheric place dishes up authentic tapas and Spanish wine in a room lined with intriguing bric-a-brac, including jars of stuffed olives, Mediterranean-themed artwork and bright red candles. Most tapas dishes are 17zł to 19zł, so forget the mains and share with friends. There’s a nightclub downstairs for post-prandial dancing.

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To drink...

6. Alter Ego The basement of the Powszechna bookshop conceals an intriguing narrow bar with a lively dancemusic policy. Look closely at the portholes separating the seating booths, and you may find something alive within their depths…

7. Czarna Owca Calling your pub the ‘Black Sheep’ hardly encourages good behaviour, so sipping a quiet pint is seldom on the agenda here.

When you’ve finished boozing in the dark, intimate bar, join the herd on the downstairs dance floor for DJs playing house, pop, rock, Latin 8. Room 55 This well-placed bar, bang on the Rynek, features mellow red chairs and banquettes, with a mezzanine area for observing the beautiful people below. There’s also a food

menu.

To go out...

9. Pub Gwarna This place is great for those who love good music and sport. Six screens show all the important games to a soundtrack of quality tunes.

10. Dragon Definitely for the nocturnal and a place where anything can happen. Upstairs is a lively bar while downstairs is the cave like dance floor where competent dj’s bang it out till dawn. Dragon also has the best beer garden in the city. A quality watering hole that comes most recommended.

11. Buena Vista Latin club A unique place with a Latin flavour. Nicely hand painted walls and straw ceiling compliment the Latin beats to successfully create a very Cuban vibe.

12. Blue note Jazz club Inspired by the infamous record label, this club is the best live music venue in the city. Outside of the gigs it is a great place to simply sit with your sunglasses on and have a drink whilst listening to jazz.

13. Nowowiejskiego Zone 3 Totally different clubs all very close together on the one street, also offering a range of pubs. Alcatraz, the old cinema and Pod minoqa throw out juxtaposed music styles and atmospheres. This area is very popular amoungst students.

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14. Johnny Rocker This super-smooth basement venue with a curvy bar is crammed with happy drinkers sitting cabaret-style in front of a stage that features live blues, jazz or rock acts every weekend. If the sounds are overwhelming, you can always retreat to the stylish ‘red room. (lonely planet)

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To eat 1. Bar mamamija 2. Mezzoforte 3. Tapas Bar 4. Restauracja Delicja To drink 5. Proletaryat 6. Alter Ego 7. Czarna Owca 8. Room 55 To go out 9. Pub Gwarna 10. Dragon 11. Buena Vista Latin Club 12. Blue note Jazz Club 13. Nowowiejskiego Zone 14. Johnny Rocker

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WAR S A W EAT D R I N K AND GO OU T Of all the cities in Poland, you’ll eat the best in Warsaw. It’s not just hearty Polish cuisine on offer either – you’ll find a growing selection of European, Southeast Asian, Indian and Japanese restaurants worthy of your hardearned cash.

To drink...

4. Chimera Chimera is two bars in one – a basement filled with aging furniture and bric-abrac, and an outside courtyard perfect for people watching. It’s just outside the Old Town and a wonderful place to relax after a long wander.

To eat...

1. Bar Mleczny Pod Barbakanem Just outside the Barbican, this popular milk bar looks as though it hasn’t changed for decades. It serves cheap, unpretentious Polish standards in a location that would be the envy of many upmarket eateries.

5. John Bull Pub Located in the cultural heart of the Old Town, and with views of the Vistula from the terrace, the John Bull is a comfortable and cosy spot to rest and sip a quiet ale.

6. Plan B This small bar squeezed into a stretched attic overlooking Plac Zbawiciela borders on dingy, but the mix of students and young office workers don’t seem to mind. Find some couch space and relax to smooth beats from regular DJs.

2. Restauracja Pod Samsonem Situated in the New Town, Pod Samsonem is frequented by locals and tourists looking for inexpensive and tasty Polish food infused with a Jewish flavour – marinated herring, gefilte fish and kawior po żydowsku (‘Jewish caviar’ – chopped chicken liver with garlic). It’s always busy and you may have to wait, especially for the popular outdoor tables.

7. Cafe Blikle The mere fact that Blikle has survived two world wars and the pressure of communism makes it a household name.

But what makes this legendary café truly famous is its donuts, for which people have been queuing up for generations.

3. Restauracja Polska The Polska is a classic old-fashioned Polish restaurant of the type that Polish families favour for special occasions – folksy farmhouse décor, lacy tablecloths, bouquets of flowers everywhere, and smartly dressed, attentive staff. The menu is devoted to hearty home cooking – this is the place to try authentic pierogi (dumplings), żurek, schab zdzika (roast wild boar with crispy dumplings) and other dania staropolskie (old Polish dishes).

8. Green Coffee The rich aroma of coffee pervades your senses as you enter this relaxed café on an otherwise nondescript section of Marszałkowska. The coffee is reputedly the best in town, and the food an inviting mix of cakes, quiches, sandwiches and muffins.

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To go out...

9. Balsam A unique club, located inside an old military fort. It’s good for lunch during the day but clubbers hold court at night and party hard under its vaulted ceilings.

10. Harlem This converted warehouse that has become one of the most popular clubs in town. DJs pump out hip-hop, R&B and gangsta rap to a crowd dressed straight out of a blinged MTV video.

11. Klubokawiarnia Under the steady gaze of communist icons, dance the night away to great music with a chilled party crowd at this basement club.

Regular fancy-dress events are held spice up an already funky night.

12. Stodoła Originally the canteen for builders of the Palace of Culture & Science, Stodoła is one of Warsaw’s biggest and longest running student clubs. It hosts events, club nights and touring bands when they’re in town.

13. Piekarnia Old fav’ of the clubbing scene, with a packed dance floor. They don’t call it ‘The Bakery’ for nothing. (lonely planet)

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E AT A ND DR I N K MAP

hostel

map 1

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map 2

hostel

map 3 hostel

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Meridian

Cam pan ile

Poznañ Garden Boutique Hotel

Fusion Gaja

Melody

Sheraton Poznañ NH Poznañ

City Park Hotel & Residence

STA

NIS

ŁAW AM

ATY I

Blow Up Hall IBB Andersia Park Drwêskich

H Tw otel ard ow ski

Fancy House

W³oski

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0m

175 m

350 m

525 m

Kole jka M altan ka

MAP O F PO Z N A N - 69 -

map of w

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warsaw

M AP O F W A R S A W - 71 -

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