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the travel issue
MARCH APRIL 2019
AROUND A LOCAL LEGEND
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table of contents
CITY PALATE MARCH APRIL 2019
14 16 18 20
A Culinary Walk Through Tuscany Catherine Van Brunschot
Many Mouthfuls in Israel Laura Di Lembo
A Taste for Tapas Authentic Experiences in Malaga, Spain Erin Lawrence
18 Course Sunday Brunch Anyone? Richard White
WORD OF MOUTH Notable culinary happenings around town
EAT THIS What to eat in March and April Ellen Kelly
GET THIS Must have kitchen stuff Wanda Baker
ONE INGREDIENT Barley Julie Van Rosendaal
THE SUNDAY PROJECT Mushrooms and polenta for a cozy night with Karen Ralph
STOCKPOT Stirrings around Calagry
6 QUICK WAYS WITH... Fennel Chris Halpin
BACK BURNER... SHEWCHUK ON SIMMER Dumbed-Down YouTube Allan Shewchuk
COVER ARTIST: Pierre-Paul Pariseau is an illustrator working for a wide range of international clients. He exhibits his personal work regularly, internationally. His work has been chosen by Taschen publisher to be in the next “100 Best Illustrators Worldwide” that will be published this summer. Take a look at more of his art at pierrepaulpariseau.com
READ US ONLINE AT CITYPALATE.CA
Local f lair, European fare. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
At our shops, we import thousands of European culinary treasures to compliment ingredients produced by Alberta farmers and purveyors to create a truly unique blend of local and global flavours.
EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
Is this a man’s heart or a woman’s?
city palate publisher/editor Kathy Richardier (firstname.lastname@example.org) magazine design Nataly Gritsouk (email@example.com) contributing editor Kate Zimmerman contributors Wanda Baker Laura Di Lembo Chris Halpin Ellen Kelly Erin Lawrence Karen Ralph Allan Shewchuk Catherine Van Brunschot Julie Van Rosendaal Richard White contributing photographers Kathy Richardier
Not researching the difference is proving fatal for women.
Heart disease and stroke affect women differently than men. Yet, two thirds of participants in life-saving research are men.
photo: genevieve renee
Lunch Dinner Brunch i n t ro d u c i n g High Tea
That’s why Heart & Stroke is on a mission to ensure women are represented equitably in research we fund. We are doubling the dollars invested in research for women. And we’re funding a community of scientists to help us finally understand how women’s hearts and brains are different from men’s.
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Together we can fund life-saving research for the women we love.
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NOTABLE CULINARY HAPPENINGS AROUND TOWN IN OUR OPINION
Aspara This is good to know about: aspara™, the fully funded smart indoor garden that produces healthy, fresh vegetables and herbs right in your kitchen, while being connected to the internet. Along with the system, the aspara™ app provides necessities, such as a plant’s light, water, temperature and nutrient information. The app also tracks a plant’s activities and conditions and includes a community platform for users to share their plants’ growth with others who share a similar passion. Visit www.aspara.hk for more information and how to order one.
RXBAR RXBARs are made with a short list of high quality, whole food ingredients that pack a protein punch. Each bar contains 12 grams of protein and is gluten free, soy free and dairy free. With this whole, protein-filled method, the bars have become a favourite among nutritionists and fitness experts. They’re perfect for a whole food snack on the go (especially when travelling), Available at www.rxbrands.ca and in retailers.
Lina’s new chef Manuel Panfili is Lina’s new chef, 100% Italian - born and raised. He started to work in the restaurant industry when he was 13 and it was love at first sight. He decided to join the culinary school in Italy, and, in the meantime, he travelled around Europe training and working in different restaurants in Germany, France, Switzerland. He achieved master-chef certificate of merit. In 2008 he decided to visit his relatives in Toronto -- that was the turning point of his life. As he tasted Canada, he knew it was the place where he wanted to work and to live. He stayed in Ontario for two years, so he had the chance to open a restaurant. After his Toronto period he decided to go back to Italy for a few years, but Canada kept on calling. He made his way to Calgary and here he met his wife. He was looking for authentic Italian items so he visited Lina’s Italian Market and really appreciated what he saw. And at Lina’s his new experience started, and as he says, “I’m excited to be a part of this organization.”
Announcing Evil Corporation Brewing Announcing Evil Corporation Brewing, a brewery that launched in December 2018. Calgary is famous for its diverse and strong corporate culture and this is echoed in this new beer start-up. Its aim is to brew the best beer possible but at the same time skewering business speak and the connotations that come with it. It all starts with the launch of its very first brew -- IPO (Initial Public Offering) IPA. “We are thrilled to finally bring our product to market after years of hard work brewing out of garages and people’s kitchens,” says Co-Founder of Evil Corp, Anthony Jackson. “The five founders, all have a passion for amazing beer, both brewing and sampling it. In terms of the name, we all have a bit of nostalgia for those movies of our youth that always seemed to have an ominous Evil Corporation looming in the background. Think OCP from Robocop and Tyrell Corporation from Blade Runner. Evil Corporation plans to be anything but evil. The founders, Quan Ly, Melanie Jackson, Daniel Piekut, Randy Mah and Anthony Jackson have in their DNA an altruistic Aliens for reference streak and once their taproom opens later in 2019 they hope to be able to undertake many charitable initiatives simply as part of what they do.” The beer hit the market with a bang in the last few weeks and is already available at a number of bars and liquor stores throughout Alberta. This is just the beginning as many other brews are in the works, including Ponzi Porter and P&L (Profit and Loss) Pale Ale. Once the taproom is open, Evil Corporation plans to launch many more devious offerings on top of their core beers, all with a focus on locally sourced ingredients wherever possible. Visit www.evilcorpbrewing.com for details.
7th annual Taste of Bragg Creek On Friday April 12th, 2019, head to Bragg Creek for the 7th annual Taste of Bragg Creek. Restaurateurs, caterers, and food and liquor merchants will prepare and serve unique “tastes” at booths at the Bragg Creek Community Centre. Park at the centre, purchase your tasting tickets and get started. Once you have experienced all the delightful dishes and libations at the centre, grab a map and discover all the specials being offered at the local shops, boutiques and restaurants. Tasting tickets will only be accepted in the Community Centre, but there will be special menus, samples, promotions and even free tastings at the in-store venues. Event Details: April 12th, 5pm-9pm, Bragg Creek Community Centre and local store-front vendors, 23 White Ave, FREE admission and parking at Bragg Creek Community Centre Tasting tickets are $1.50 each. Number of tickets per sample is up to the merchants. Visit www.tasteofbraggcreek.ca for more information.
The Hawksworth Young Chef The Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship national annual competition begins with the following regional heats: Calgary on May 4 at the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology (SAIT), Vancouver on May 10 at Vancouver Community College (VCC), Montreal on May 23 at the Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ) and Toronto on May 25 at George Brown College. Following last year’s Toronto finals, this year’s final event will be held in Vancouver in October when one deserving chef will take home the grand prize of $10,000, an international cooking stage, a range of sponsor gifts and the bragging rights to being named Canada’s most talented young chef. Deadline for applications is Monday, March 11, 2019. For more information and to apply, please visit: www.hawksworthscholarship.com
Maps, Markets and Matzo Ball Soup: The inspiring life of Chef Gail Hall, by Twyla Campbell (Q32 Consulting, Edmonton, soft cover, $29.99). A really good read about a really good chef, Edmontonian Gail Hall, who made a huge impression on the food community. She died in 2016 from respiratory failure as a complication of breast cancer, but her spirit lives on! This is really a great, interesting read and it has great recipes, too, like Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Soup and Black Bean Brownies. Find this at The Cookbook Co. This looks great: Beer at my Table: recipes, beer styles and food pairings, by Tonia Wilson, a chef and beer sommelier (Whitecap Books, soft cover, $34.95). A perfect book for people who love good food and good beer. You’ll love Soy-and Orange-Braised Short Ribs with Sweet Potatoes paired with a Baltic Porter called Smuttynose. Who could resist a beer with such a name! Or Braised Sausages with Peppers, Olives and Polenta served with a London Porter called Rascal. Fun beer names, we’re there! And this is a PERFECT book for cooking for and with beer! If you’re a beer person, you’ll love it. Find this at The Cookbook Co.
The Whole 30 Slow Cooker: 150 Totally Compliant Prep-and-Go Recipes for Your Whole30 with Instant Pot Recipes, by Melissa Hartwig (Penguin Canada, hard cover, $35). This is part of the author’s program that started with her first book, The Whole30: The 30-Day Guide to Total Health and Food Freedom. She’s a certified sports nutritionist who specializes in helping people change their relationship with food and create life-long, healthy habits. You do need a slow cooker, but many of us have them. You’ll love this recipe: Shrimp and Garden Veggie Sauce over Spaghetti Squash. And you might love this one – we did: Pomegranate-Orange BBQ Brisket with Celery Root Slaw, and Smoky Beef and Bacon Chili. Yes, lots of good foods and what you love anyway!
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
WINE & SPIRIT
Whether youâ€™re a novice or experienced professional, the WSET Award courses are the perfect way to increase your knowledge.
UPCOMING CLASSES (registration closes 2 weeks prior to start date)
WSET Level 2 Award in Wines April 3, 10, 17, 24 & May 1, 8, 15, 22 6:30 PM - 9:30 PM Oakridge Tasting Centre WSET Level 3 Advanced Certificate April 27, 28 & May 4, 5, 25 & June 1 6:30 PM - 9:30 PM Shawnessy Tasting Centre To view our full course calendar, please visit: coopwinespiritsbeer.com/wset
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
by Ellen Kelly
WHAT TO EAT IN MARCH AND APRIL Ilustrations by Eden Thompson
Here in Alberta, March and April often look more like winter than spring. Regardless, spring is on our minds and in our hearts… and so too is our quest for the perfect salad. It’s still too early to be foraging for much in garden or field, but with all the innovative growers coming up in recent years, we can begin again to satisfy our passion for salad making. As well, we will start to see many of the greens and fresh herbs we crave in the markets, coming from B.C. and the northwestern U.S. As it is still citrus season, albeit the tail end, grapefruit can readily be found to help dissipate the last vestiges of winter. Early spring is the time to look for new greens, be they lettuces, herbs, spinach, arugula, watercress or what have you. We want the bitter and the sweet; the tender and the crisp; the aromatic and the peppery; the sturdy and the ephemeral. A really good green salad is a balance of these things. I’m not talking about bursting open a plastic bag of pre-washed “mesclun” greens, as convenient as that is. The perfect green salad matters… and it’s an easy enough thing to achieve if you’re prepared to set aside a little time and effort. It’s hard to imagine a wider gap than the one between a generation raised on watery iceberg lettuce swimming in Kraft Thousand Island Dressing and the seemingly fastidious contingent of lettuce-spinning, vinaigrette-making salad aficionados, but here we are. Nothing compares to a simple green salad comprised only of cool perky lettuces and other greens, tossed, just before serving, in the most basic of vinaigrettes. Quality of ingredients is key (as with most things), but when it comes to salads, proper preparation turns the tide. Here it is: Fill a large basin or sink with cold water (I add ice) and let your assorted leaves float around for several minutes to perk up and refresh. Don’t leave them long enough to get waterlogged, 15-20 minutes will do. Gently lift them out of the water and allow to drain in your hands for a minute before putting them in the salad spinner. Yes, you need a salad spinner. Spin the greens until they’re dry. Layer them between towels (paper or cloth) in a large plastic bag or container. Finally, put them in the fridge and let the greens chill for an hour or more. This process not only makes the greens more appetising but prolongs their fridge life. Put the greens into a large bowl and gently toss with Malden salt (the over-large crystals take longer to melt and will provide a pleasant crunch once the salad is dressed) and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle the greens with fresh lemon juice or one of the many interesting vinegars lurking in your pantry (I know they’re there!) and some of that wonderfully fruity (and a little expensive) olive oil you probably shouldn’t be cooking with. Don’t overdress. There’s nothing worse than a limp, watery, overdressed salad. Remember, the greens are the star of the show, not a delivery system for some goopy salad dressing. Taste as you go -- you can add, but you can’t take away. BUY: Look for fresh, dry, springy leaves with no trace of slime or decay. Smell them (you know that unpleasant musty odour), even taste them, especially in the case of watercress and arugula, to confirm the sweet/bitter balance you’re looking for. Watercress should have small round-ish leaves and thin stems. Eschew too many stalks and all flowers; they will only mean all of the hot and peppery notes and none of the sweet. TIPS: Always make sure your greens are dry. Two words -- salad spinner. This enables the dressing to adhere to the leaves and not become diluted by excess water. DID YOU KNOW? Mesclun is just a Provençal word for mixed. Traditionally, it was a changeable mixture of wild greens and herbs eagerly picked in the fields and woods as winter waned. Now it has come to denote almost any combination of greens. Ideally, go for a balance of bitter or peppery (arugula, watercress, dandelion, frisee, endive, sorrel) and sweet and tender (parsley, chervil, loose-leaf lettuces, head lettuces, spinach, mâche).
BUY: Purchase heavy fruit with smooth glossy skins. A fruit that is heavy in the hand will be juiciest. The colour of the skin or the odd blemish is not indicative of how good the fruit will taste. As with many fruits, bigger does not mean sweeter or tastier.
March generally heralds the end of the major citrus season. However, coming to us from California, Arizona, Texas and Florida, thus ripening at different times, grapefruits are available all year round. Their bright flavour and distinctive, almost floral, scent are hard to resist. Aside from being ubiquitous breakfast fare or a better than average mixer with gin, grapefruit makes a lovely marmalade, delicious candied peel and an interesting citrus curd. When I find the small heavy Texas Ruby Red grapefruits at bargain prices, I buy big and peel and section the fruit for salads and snacking (see TIPS).
TIPS: Here’s how to cut a grapefruit into segments: Using a small sharp knife, slice off both ends of the grapefruit down to the flesh. Place a cut side down on your board and begin to cut away the peel, in a curving motion from top to bottom, until all the rind and pith is removed. Over a bowl, hold the peeled fruit in one hand and carefully cut between the section membranes, easily removing the fleshy segments. Squeeze the juice out of the remaining membrane into the bowl. The segments, in the juice, can be kept in the fridge for 3-4 days.
A favourite early spring salad is composed of slices of ripe avocado, plump pink shrimp and sections of grapefruit. The dressing is easy to make using grapefruit juice, a squeeze of lemon, good olive oil, salt and pepper. Served on a bed of mâche or watercress, this salad is elegant enough for a party and yet easy enough for a quick lunch on the run.
DID YOU KNOW? There is some disagreement as to the etymology of grapefruit, but it is most commonly accepted that it is so named because the fruit actually grows on the tree in grape-like bunches or clusters. Ellen Kelly has written about food, among other culinary pursuits, for years and is a regular contributor to City Palate.
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
by Wanda Baker
MUST HAVE KITCHEN STUFF
An edible solar system
Chef Manuel Panfili
BERLINGO’s French chocolatier Martin Boutry was formed at the Valrhona school and has years of experience in chocolate. He uses Valrhona chocolate in his creations along with ingredients from local suppliers including Alberta organic milk. His current piece of edible art, A Sky Full of Stars chocolate collection offers an assortment of nine different fruit flavours all named after planets or stars in our solar system. Earth contains fresh mint and white chocolate ganache Opalys, while Mars is raspberry, litchi and white chocolate Opalys. With several chocolates in this collection to try, you’ll be eating your way through our solar system in no time. BERLINGO Bonbons Collection – A Sky Full of Stars, BERLINGO, $22.50
Canadian seafood boil
Chef Manuel Panfili is 100% Italian – born and raised. He was 13 when he started in the restaurant industry – he aended culinary school in Italy, and trained and worked across Europe, achieving a master-chef cerficate of merit. Manuel moved to Toronto where he opened his first restaurant, then returned to Italy - but Canada called to him. He landed in Calgary, where he met and married his wife. While exploring the city looking for authenc Italian fare, he stopped at Lina’s Italian Market – and the rest of this beauful story lies ahead.
Popular in the Southern United States, a typical seafood boil can contain smoked sausage, corn, even mushrooms. Cooking methods and ingredients can vary by state and tradition. Billingsgate Market carries its own version of this dish and has brought it back due to popular demand. Their Seafood Pot for Two contains cod, haddock, snapper, sole, catfish, king crab and/or lobster, shrimp, mussels and/or clams, potato, celery, carrots, onions, garlic, fish stock, salt and spices. Simply boil for 5 minutes, strain and serve from pot into bowls, or lay out on a pile of newspaper right on your table Southern style. They offer a great incentive to return the pot and receive a credit towards your next purchase. Seafood Pot for Two, Billingsgate Market in the Crossroads Market, $50.
If they bug you – eat them A normal food staple in close to eighty percent of countries around the world, grasshoppers as a food source are starting to pick up steam. Once you get over your fear of eating bugs, discover how many ways you can eat and potentially enjoy grasshoppers. Mex-Can Gourmet Artisan Products in Avenida Food Hall & Fresh Market aims to change people’s perception of eating bugs one grasshopper at a time. They offer a variety of grasshopper products sure to win over even the biggest bug critic. Try grasshopper flour, protein bars, salsas, sauces, grasshopper tortilla chips, dehydrated grasshopper for straight munching, salt, sangrita and more. Whether these bugs are fried, smoked, toasted, or mixed into something, there will be a little extra texture and protein for everyone. Grasshopper Products, Mex-Can Gourmet Artisan Products in Avenida Food Hall & Fresh Market, $4.99 - $25.
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
Pass the popcorn If you enjoy truffle popcorn while eating out, you’ll be happy to know you can buy it pre-made from Sauce Italian Market and take it home to eat any time of the day or night. Their secret recipe includes more ingredients than just truffle oil, and we got the inside scoop their oil of choice is Black Truffle Oil and not the white variation. Sauce Truffle Butter Popcorn is the latest addition to their Sauce line-up of products and offerings that includes sauces, salad dressings and coffee. They also offer cooking classes for those wanting to learn more tips and tricks in the kitchen.
Sip Into Spring UPCOMING TASTING EVENTS: Rum: Starts with the letter “Arrrrrr!” Thursday, April 18 2019, 7 PM The Joy of Terroir: Varietal Variations, Pinot Noir Thursday, May 23 2019, 7 PM Scotch for Dad Friday, June 14 2019, 7 PM
Sauce Truffle Butter Popcorn, Sauce Italian Market, $10.
For more information and tickets visit www.cellarwinestore.com
Cheese lovers delight Le 1608 Laterie Charlevoix Quebec Cheese gets its name from the few cattle imported from France to Canada between 1608 and 1670 now known as the Canadienne breed, found only in North America. Currently there are only 500 of these Canadiennes still living. Offering a unique flavour, Le 1608 is washed in brine, aged 2-6 months, could be considered a little stinky but boasts a fruity flavour with a long finish. Try this cheese in a sandwich, raclette or fondue. Bridgeland Market offers a full selection of cheeses from Quebec, France and around the world to accompany their select deli meats, in-house made takehome meals and fresh, locally prepared meat. Lots of good reasons to stop in and get to know your local community grocer. Le 1608 Laterie Charlevoix Quebec Cheese, Bridgeland Market, $6.29/100g
Beer glasses with a purpose Reworks printed beer glasses are, in fact, repurposed beer bottles that have been turned into fun, cheeky beer glasses using traditional glassblowing methods. Created in a Canadian glass studio, each former bottle turned tumbler receives a fun graphic making them the perfect complement to any beer lovers mug collection. Plus, you are drinking out of a former beer bottle, that’s all kinds of cool right there. Durable, dishwasher safe but mostly fun, there are several designs to choose from both in the store and via their website. Printed Beer Glass, Reworks Upcycle Shop, $24.99 each
137 8th Ave SW | 403 503 0730 www.cellarwinestore.com | f T
ANDAWARDS2019 CALGARY, ALBERTA, APRIL 4 & 5, 2019
WHERE WESTERN CANADA’S MAGAZINE MEDIA PROFESSIONALS COME FOR INSIGHT AND INSPIRATION. Stay informed and get motivated at the 24th annual Alberta Magazines Conference and hear from the industry’s most respected innovators.
Learn how industry innovators are growing their brands and finding success
Connect with colleagues informally and at moderated and roundtable events
Hear business solutions from industry suppliers and vendors
14 deep-dive breakout sessions to choose from covering all aspects of magazine publishing
Wanda Baker is Calgary food writer and author of bakersbeans.ca who writes about life, adventure and food.
ALBERTAMAGAZINES.COM CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
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Small Group and Private Trips exploring local cuisines and wines around the globe!
Africa • Asia • Indian Subcontinent • Latin America • Europe North Africa • Middle East • South Pacific • Polar Region
When perusing barley options on store shelves, you’ll come across “pearl and pot” barley, the difference being the amount of the grain’s exterior that has been buffed off. Both have been put through a pearling machine, which removes the inedible hull and polishes the kernel. Pot barley has been pearled for a shorter amount of time and still has most of the barley bran intact. Pearl barley gets some extra time in the machine, which removes most of the bran layer. Both are great for you, and can generally be used interchangeably in recipes, but you may find pearled barley slightly softer. Like most whole grains, barley can be cooked and served as a side dish or pilaf or as the base for grainy salads, added to soup or served for breakfast, or simmered in a pudding for dessert. It’s ridiculously versatile, and gets on well with a huge range of ingredients and flavours. Barley cooks in about 40 minutes, and if you like making things ahead of time, a large batch can be cooked and stashed in the fridge for several days or frozen to toss directly into your pot of soup. Cooked barley can take the place of steel-cut oats for a chewy, nutty, substantial breakfast, and if you’re looking for a new way of boosting the fibre in your pancakes, waffles or baked goods, try subbing barley flour, which is available by the bag alongside the wheat flour in most grocery stores, for a portion of the all-purpose flour in your recipes. (Yes, barley contains gluten.) But don’t feel pressured to come up with creative new uses for it—it’s completely valid to keep a jar on the shelf just for beef and barley soup.
Spock Soup This sausage, lentil and barley soup was dubbed “spock soup” when I fed it to Leonard Nimoy during his visit nearly a decade ago — he requested beef and barley, but I thought this would be more interesting, and showcase our Spolumbo’s sausages and prairie lentils at the same time. He loved it. canola oil, for cooking
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2 mild or hot Italian sausages half a bunch of celery 4 c. chicken or vegetable stock or water a big handful of dried green lentils (about 1/3 c.) a big handful of pot or pearl barley (about 1/3 c.) salt and pepper, to taste
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
As Albertans, we should all be doing our civic duty by eating more barley. The Canadian barley industry produces about eight million tonnes a year, over half of which grows right here. We drink a lot of it—the prairies produce some of the world’s best malted barley, which is used to make beer—and about three-quarters of the annual crop is used as livestock feed, in turn fuelling the multibillion dollar Alberta beef industry. Barley as an ingredient in itself barely registers, and yet it’s one of the most inexpensive, fibre-rich and nutrient-dense grains available. It’s easy to cook, requiring about the same amount of time on the stove as brown rice, and also comes in convenient flour and flake form. And yet most of us rarely think beyond a bowl of beef and barley soup. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that.) There are plenty of reasons to get to know barley better, besides the fact that it’s one of our largest cereal crops: fibre is good for you, and barley contains about four times as much of it as oats. And while the two are similar, people aren’t quite as comfortable with barley, although you can buy porridges that contain barley flakes, which cook (and taste) just like oat flakes, and you can boost fibre by adding barley flour to your baking, as you might with oat flour. And of course there’s the option of cooking the grains on their own—something we’re less likely to do with steelcut oats.
In a medium pot or Dutch oven, heat
a drizzle of oil over medium-high heat. Squeeze the sausage out of its casings into the pot and cook, breaking up with a spoon, until no longer pink. Chop the entire bunch of celery starting at the leafy end and going
With no overnight soaks, no straining, no waste and, of course, no preservatives and easy to clean the Nutramilk processor makes up to 2L of fresh alternative milk in less than ten minutes.
Julie Van Rosendaal
about halfway down — I use a lot of celery — and throw it in the pot. Cook for about
5 minutes. Add the stock, lentils and barley, turn the heat down to low and simmer for about 45 minutes, until the lentils and barley are tender. Adjust seasoning and serve hot. Serves 4.
Barley Risotto Barley makes a delicious base for risotto, which is not quite as creamy, and more substantial than the traditional short grain rice variety. Feel free to play around with it, adding whatever ingredients are in season or suit your taste olive or canola oil, for cooking 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 t. grated lemon zest salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 1 c. pearl or pot barley 4 c. low sodium chicken stock 250 g. peeled and deveined raw shrimp 3/4 c. fresh or frozen peas fresh parsley or pea shoots, for garnish
Heat the oil in a large saucepan set over medium-high heat; add the onion, garlic, lemon zest, and pepper, and sauté until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in barley and stock and bring to a simmer.
Reduce heat; cover pan and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring vigorously halfway through for 15 seconds. Stir in shrimp and peas; cover pan and simmer until shrimp are pink and peas are tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley or mint and serve. Serves 6.
Roasted Vegetable & Barley Gratin
about 3/4 of the cheese and pour over the vegetables and barley. Sprinkle with remaining cheese and bake for 30 minutes, or until set and golden. Serves 6.
Baked Barley Pudding Who doesn’t love rice pudding? This version is more substantial, with a grainier, nuttier texture.
This dish makes great use of leftover roasted vegetables, or you could start by roasting them: dice squash, sweet potatoes, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or any other roastable vegetable into similarly-sized pieces, toss with oil and roast at 425˚F for 20-30 minutes, or until just tender.
2 c. cooked pearl or pot barley
2 c. roasted vegetables, such as winter squash, sweet potato, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts
cinnamon, for dusting
1-1 1/2 c. cooked pearl or pot barley 2 large eggs 1/2 c. half & half salt and pepper, to taste 1 c. grated aged gouda, cheddar, gruyère (or any cheese ends)
1/3 c. raisins or currants 2 large eggs 1/3 c. sugar or honey 2 c. half and half cream 1/4 t. salt
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Combine the barley and raisins or currants in a 2 quart baking dish or individual baking dishes. Whisk together the eggs, sugar, cream and salt; pour over the barley and bake for 30 minutes, or until set and pale golden on top. Serve warm or chilled, dusted with cinnamon. Serves 6.
coarse sugar, for sprinkling (optional)
Drizzle: 1 c. icing sugar 2 T. cream or other liquid
Preheat the oven to 425˚F. In a large bowl combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Add the butter and blend with a pastry blender or fork until wellcombined, with some pieces of butter the size of a pea. (Alternatively, blitz the dry ingredients and butter in the bowl of a food processor.) Add the milk and stir until the dough comes together. Gather it into a ball and place on a parchment-lined sheet; pat into a circle an inch thick. Cut into 8 wedges with a knife and pull them apart, spacing them an inch or two from each other. If you like, brush with extra milk or cream and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until deep golden. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the icing sugar and milk. Drizzle over the scones after they’ve cooled slightly. Makes 8 scones.
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Spread the roasted vegetables in a shallow baking dish and top with the barley. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, half & half and the salt and pepper. Stir in
Old-fashioned oats are traditionally used in granola, but barley flakes deliver a higher dose of fibre; feel free to use a combination of the two. 6 c. barley flakes 1-2 c. chopped nuts and seeds (almonds,
Roasted Vegetable & Barley Gratin
walnuts, pecans, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds or a combination) 1/4 c. ground flaxseed (optional) 1/2 t. cinnamon 1/4 t. salt
Barley Scones Barley flour is generally available in the baking aisle of most grocery stores alongside other flours—it can be used in place of other whole grain flours, but is particularly high in fibre, so I like to cut it with regular flour. I’ve been known to make these using a leftover cold latte (chai latte is particularly delicious) and even eggnog. 1 c. all-purpose flour 1 c. barley flour 2 T. sugar 1 T. baking powder
1/3-1/2 c. honey 1/3-1/2 c. maple syrup or golden syrup 1/2-1 c. chopped (if necessary) dried fruit
Preheat oven to 300°F. In a large bowl, stir everything together except the dried fruit. Spread the mixture on a large parchmentlined rimmed baking sheet and bake for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is golden. Remove from the oven and stir in the dried fruit. Cool completely before storing in airtight containers. Makes about 8 cups.
1/4 t. salt 1/3 c. butter, cold and cut into pieces
Julie Van Rosendaal is cookbook author and blogs at dinnerwithjulie.com
1 c. milk, cream or other liquid
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the sunday project
with Karen Ralph
MUSHROOMS AND POLENTA FOR A COZY NIGHT
Churrascaria & Restaurante
Despite my rural upbringing in an area that is undoubtedly rich with edible mushrooms, my first mushroom memory is of my aunt cooking the ones in cans. I recall their pungent, off-putting odour as my aunt drained the can and tossed the rubbery white nubs into a cast-iron frying pan. My cousin, sprawled out on the velour couch under the swag lamp looked from the kitchen to the snow outside and said, “canned mushrooms just make everything so much more depressing.” Luckily for us, fresh or dried mushrooms make everything so much better. Just how much better was underscored at a lovely lunch in Arbois, France, courtesy of the Jura winemaker Monsieur-Rolet who had agreed to meet myself and Gail Norton at his wine shop for a 10:30 am tasting. He generously opened up at least 15 of his fantastic wines, explaining his wine making process as we tasted our way through. As the tasting concluded he indicated that we should follow him and walked us to a restaurant with a sunny, enclosed patio. As we were being seated, he had a loud, friendly exchange with the chef, approached our table saying “everything is taken care of” and left us. Monsieur Rolet had ordered us a memorable lunch of Macvin du Jura with layered, chilled gazpacho and pannacotta soup, poulet au Vin Jaune crème with glasses of light red, fruity and tart Trousseau and finally, too full for anything else, we finished with small glasses of the regions famous Vin Jaune. Addicted, we returned to this restaurant the next day, and I ordered mixed mushrooms on toast. When it arrived, Gail noted “That’s at least $50 worth of morels!” Served on a slice of grilled sourdough, they were in a cream sauce that was both nuanced and deceptively light, brightened with resinous sprigs of thyme. We followed that with Bresse chicken in Vin Jaune crème, grilled trout, roasted potatoes and thinly sliced, barely cooked zucchini ribbons, all washed down with glasses of unique Jura wines. Back in Canada, I’m always happy to see markets offering a variety of fresh and foraged oyster, chanterelle, shiitake and morel mushrooms, tender chickens, artisan bread makers and thick cream from nearby farms, all the better to recreate that brilliant lunch in Arbois. Many of the Jura’s wines are available at Metrovino. Polenta is made from ground corn meal and cooking time depends on how finely or coarsely it’s been ground. I use a finely ground yellow corn meal from Italian Centre Shop. It cooks quickly and is delicious sliced and eaten cold or refried the next day. The use of polenta might seem to put this dish in the Italian camp, but polenta is common in the Savoie and the Jura regions of France. If you’re leaning to the Italian side, Comté can be replaced with Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. What I love about this recipe is that it makes an excellent vegetarian lunch or dinner, can easily be made vegan by replacing the butter with olive oil and omitting the cheese, and it’s an excellent side dish to spatchcocked chicken or pork roast.
CATERING EVENTS (403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW firstname.lastname@example.org www.minassteakhouse.coM 12
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Sautéed Mushrooms and Polenta Choose mushrooms that are firm, dry and fresh looking. Store them in a brown paper bag until ready to use and clean by wiping with a cloth, except for morels, which can be soaked to remove any lurking insects.
Sautéed Mushrooms and Shallots in Red Wine Sauce 8 c. assorted fresh mushrooms 4 large shallots, diced 1 large clove garlic, crushed 4 T. salted butter divided 1/4 c. light dry red wine like Trousseau, Gamay or Pinot Noir 1/4 c. water 1 t. cornstarch 1 t. marmite (optional) Dice 4 shallots and set aside. Wipe the dirt off of your mushrooms with a damp cloth and remove the stems. Button, portobello and shiitake mushrooms can be cut into 1/4 inch slices, and you can simply pull the softer oyster and chanterelle mushrooms into strips. In a large sauté or frying pan, melt half the butter over medium high heat. Add the shallots and garlic, stirring occasionally until they start to turn golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add in a few thyme sprigs. Keep an eye on the pan — garlic can burn quickly Add the rest of the butter and the mushrooms. Be gentle and don’t over stirthe chanterelles and oyster mushrooms are delicate and can fall apart. Cook the mushrooms and shallots for about 10 minutes. The mushrooms will be in sauce and it’s not necessary to brown them. Combine water and cornstarch, stirring into the hot pan. As the liquid starts to thicken add the red wine. Cook on medium heat for another 5 minutes, until the alcohol has evaporated. At this point, a teaspoon of marmite can be added for extra depth of umami flavour. Stir until the Marmite is dissolved, turn heat to low and cover the pan.
1. Assorted fresh mushrooms
2. Sliced mushrooms
3. Frying mushrooms
4. Polenta with Comte
Polenta with Comté 4 c. water 1 t. kosher salt 1 c. polenta 2 T. salted butter, divided 1/3 c. grated Comté Thyme sprigs for garnish Bring the water and salt to a boil and then sprinkle in the polenta, stirring or whisking until all of the polenta has been added- add it slowly to avoid lumps. Turn the heat to low, and add in 1 Tbsp butter and keep stirring. Within a minutes the consistency will thicken and it will be more difficult to whisk. Remove from the heat and add the rest of the butter and stir in most of the Comté, leaving a little for garnish. Salt to taste, cover and let sit to thicken, about 5 minutes. Check on your mushrooms, you might need to add a little more water.
Assembly and Serving Heat a large platter and scoop the hot polenta onto half of the plate. Add the mushrooms to the other half. Top the mushrooms with a generous spoonful of red wine sauce and garnish with thyme sprigs. Serve family style. The mushroom stems can be frozen for use in stocks. Serves 4 generously
Karen Ralph is a co-cookbook author and long-time contributor to City Palate, whose syrups and shrubs can be found at Eau Claire Distillery. 5. Mushrooms and Polenta CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
Late to the Table… Dario Castagno -- writer, tour guide, and self-taught Chiantigiano historian -- regales us with stories, walks us through the tasting of three of the winery’s robust reds, and concludes our amble around the estate with a candle-lit foray through cellars reverberating with Italian opera. Lunch under the chestnut trees includes a pappardelle with pulled wild boar that has me beginning to see the light on the merits of pasta.
tourism and promoters of the arts and journalism. Meanwhile, Podere Il Cocco, an organic wine venture run by siblings Giacomo, Ettore, Domotilla, and Stefano Bindi, is representative of a tide of young people who have returned to the Tuscan countryside to resuscitate the poderes abandoned by their ancestors during Italy’s post-war industrial boom.
Back in Siena at Dante Alighieri Culinary School, beneath a quote from that famous Italian poet, all hands are put to work to conjure a four-course meal of Tuscan specialties. We stumble a bit with the hand-cranked pasta machine, but deem our results a resounding success: grilled zucchini crostini; fresh stracci pasta with olive sauce; rich Chiantistyle chicken; and luscious lemon bavarian with strawberries.
The youthful tide can also be found at Locanda Demetra, where an energetic team of DIY millennials has turned a formerly decrepit farmhouse into a cooking school and inspired farm-to-table restaurant. Here, homey hospitality combines with contemporary cuisine in an alchemy that sees effervescent frontman Alessandro Paris as both our host through a parade of creative dishes (with standouts like caramelized eggplant & mozzarella, and Cinta Senese pork wrapped in its own bacon), and cool uncle to the baby who passes amiably from guest to guest as we polish off our chocolate cream mille-feuille.
By Catherine Van Brunschot Let me be upfront: I never read Frances Mayes’ Under the Tuscan Sun. Never saw the movie. I’m unaccountably indifferent to pasta (and Italian food in general, if truth be told). Yes, I missed the boat completely on the raptures of Tuscany. Friends who’d spent time in the popular Italian region said this was a gap in need of remedy. Stat. So I booked a culinary walking tour of Tuscany, offering hillside rambles and an abundance of wine. Now THAT’S something I could commit to.
Siena The tour begins in Siena, Tuscany’s largest hill town, whose beating heart since the 12th century has been Piazza del Campo. As I join the aperitivo-sippers along the plaza’s edge, I try to imagine 10 horses careening past the cafés around the tilted perimeter. This is the site of the famous Palio, a bareback race that’s been fuelled for centuries by the fierce rivalries of Siena’s 17 contrade (neighbourhoods). Here, the winning steed is allowed to cross the finish without its jockey -- and often does. I become a fan of the Onda (Wave) contrada at its carefully curated Palio museum, where I got to witness on video the horse race in all its chaotic glory. But deep in Leocorno (Unicorn) territory, a piece of my culinary heart is stolen. At cozy Osteria Babazuf, we are plied with course after delicious course -- 15 dishes in all -- ranging from asparagus pie and rabbit terrine through hand-made pastas, lamb and suckling pig, to three final dolci featuring the magic of chocolate, coconut, caramel and oranges.
My conversion to Tuscan pleasures has begun.
Chianti Next day finds us walking the Chianti countryside, forested with oak, cypress, and honeysuckle, with 2500-year-old Etruscan tombs pocking the hills. Our destination is Fattoria Tregole, a family-run winery housed in a restored podere (farm estate). Here,
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
The hilltop village of San Gimignano was once a welcome beacon for medieval pilgrims travelling to Rome along the Via Francigena. Today, its 14 intact stone towers remain a strong visual presence behind us, no matter how far we walk through the surrounding hills. The vineyards here produce Vernaccia di Sangimignano, Tuscany’s best white wine, and the acacia blossoms that perfume the air provide a popular local treat when fried as sweet and crunchy fritters. Just as the trail takes a serious incline, a beefy young man dressed in camouflage materializes on a dirt bike. He is introduced as a member of the Ganozzi family, whose Sant’Ulivieri agriturismo is our lunch destination. Some take up his offer of a lift up to the farmhouse and I watch them bounce alarmingly around the potato mounds. Prudence keeps me on a steady plod past fields of ancient grains, taking strategic pauses to admire rows of deep purple artichokes. Lunch is a feast focused on all that the property produces, including pecorino cheese, prosciutto and salumi; spelt and tomato salad; leek soup; and crostini topped with house-made spreads, marinated vegetables, and preserves. We wash it down with generous quantities of the Vernaccia until the camoclad lad re-emerges with a polished accordion and Signore Ganozzi himself arrives with armloads of poppies to decorate the biscotti tray. The younger Ganozzi proves to be a virtuoso, whose repertoire from folk songs to Italian opera brings us to our feet. When the elder Ganozzi is moved to share his considerable dancing prowess too, the gathering builds to a fullblown kitchen party -- until thundering skies have us running for cover.
Montalcino Within minutes of our arrival, I discover two things in the town of Montalcino: medieval streets chock-ablock with wine-tasting rooms AND the best espresso I have had anywhere, pulled from a circa-1961 espresso machine at Caffe Fiaschetteria Italiana. This wine bar was founded in 1888 by the creator of Brunello di Montalcino, a wine that’s become one of Italy’s finest, and the central preoccupation of some 240 nearby producers. Our walks through Brunello country take us to two of them. At Casato Prime Donne, Italy’s first winery helmed by all-female winemakers, Donatella Cinelli Colombini and her team serve as leaders in wine
Pienza, San Quirico d’Orcia and Beyond The week speeds by with a trove of memorable experiences: Sant’Antimo Abbey, thick with incense and the chants of monks; San Quirico d’Orcia’s handmade pasta, craft beer and cold-pressed olive oil; and Renaissance Pienza’s hidden squares and impossibly emerald views. Our final day’s walk takes us through that view to the cheese-makers of Podere il Casale. Here we make acquaintance with the sheep, learn the magic wrought by seasonality, terroir and aging, and linger over a tremendous cheese platter that concludes our al fresco lunch. Loathe to end my Tuscan immersion, I opt for a return trek to Pienza, through a landscape of badlands and poppies and golden broom that puts me in a reflective mood. I wonder what the asking price would be for Frances Mayes’ place!
Catherine Van Brunschot is a Calgary-based food and travel writer and a regular contributor to Taste & Travel International. Read more of her travels at catherineevanbrunschot.com I booked my tour with Walk About Italy, owned and operated by Siena native, Gianni Stanghellini. Tours include accommodations, transport, meals, and tastings and are led by passionate and professionally qualified local guides. Walk About Italy also conducts culinary walking tours of Sicily and the Amalfi Coast. www.walkaboutitaly.com *********************** Under the Tuscan Sun is a memoir by American writer, Frances Mayes, detailing her growing love affair for Tuscany as she buys and renovates an old abandoned villa. The book spent more than two-anda-half years on the New York Times bestseller list and was adapted for the 2003 film of the same name, starring Diane Lane.
SEE PAGE 17 FOR POLLO ALLA CHIANTIGIANA RECIPE.
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1-1/2 c. of cilantro leaves
Many Mouthfuls in Israel:
1-1/2 t. of kosher salt 2 t. of ground cumin 1 t. of baking powder 2 t. of ground coriander seed 1 jalapeño pepper, stem removed 4 green onions
Shakshuka, Zhoug, Rugelach, Khachapuri
by Laura Di Lembo
hile preparing for my trip to Israel in April 2018, I happily discovered that there are people from more than 185 different ethnicities currently living there, and that many of these cultural groups are represented in the country’s diverse and vibrant food scene. Given that the region is a cauldron of complex, boiling passions and conflicts, food was the lens through which I wanted to experience and appreciate this fascinating place. Walk. Eat. Repeat. The politics are challenging to unravel, but the food, I could understand! The foods appear as you wander, in street markets, where people literally elbow their way to the stacks of fresh simit (sesame bread rings), still warm from the oven. We were offered homemade Arabic date cookies at Damascus Gate in Jerusalem, crisp and sesame-coated; we sampled Uzbeki pickled whole baby eggplants, the size of my thumb, deep magenta in colour, intriguingly sweet and sour and unforgettable. Halvah candy appears in 40 varieties -- including pistachio, coffee, cardamom, rose petal -- made from top-grade Ethiopian seeds, melting like butter on the tongue. Falafel is served hot and crisp, along with fiery zhoug, a Yemenite condiment marrying cilantro, hot peppers and cumin. Turkish coffee arrives dark and muddy, aromatic with cardamom, the flavour amplified into an explosion. Where you find cohesion in this multi-ethnic place is the way people of all backgrounds love to come together over food and drink. Meals are typically multi-hued, generous and tantalizing. I took away not a singular vision of what Israeli cuisine is, but, instead, mouthfuls of diversity and inspiration. Vegetables reign the mightiest here; often, tables are laden with more than a dozen salads. An Israeli feast features nibbles first: olives, little cubes of pickled beets, Moroccan grated carrot salad, hummus -- always hummus and pillowy, soft pita bread. Afterwards, platters of whole fire-roasted eggplant, split open and slathered with organic raw tahini, fresh lemon juice and parsley. There are stewed tomatoes, vibrant and perky and endowed with peppery heat. Then, some grilled meat or fish, not an afterthought, but one of the acts in the play, with substance and style, but not taking centre stage. This is the Mediterranean diet in living colour, the food pyramid, where pulses, grains and vegetables
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
have the highest status. Can you say shakshuka? Rugelach? Khachapuri? It turns out that what is at once foreign is also familiar. Shakshuka is Libyan in origin and consists of eggs baked in a spicy tomato sauce. Rugelach are crescent-shaped cookies, miniature flaky pastries rolled around nuts and cinnamon. Khachapuri: a savoury Georgian cheese bread that bakes up not unlike a personal pizza. But really, we must talk about falafel, perhaps Israel’s most iconic food. Many Middle Eastern countries claim falafel as theirs, and Israel is no exception. Putting its provenance aside, it is vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free. I challenge you to find a more widely appealing main course. The best of the best falafel are redolent of green herbs and plenty of garlic. This is how it’s done, more of a description than a recipe, as falafelmaking is very touchy-feely.
FALAFEL Recipe based on a description from a falafel shop in the old Arab quarter of Haifa. Cover 2 c. of dried chickpeas and 1 t. baking soda in plenty of cold water in a large bowl and let soak overnight. The next day, drain the chickpeas well. They should have doubled in size. Place the drained chickpeas in the bowl of a food processor and add
4 large garlic cloves
Pulse until all the ingredients in the mixture are finely chopped. You do not want a smooth paste, but a textured, pebbly mass. Empty the contents of the food processor bowl into another large bowl. (If your food processor bowl is not large enough for everything at once, pulse the mixture in batches, transferring the chopped stuff into a large bowl as you go.) Once you have everything blitzed and in the large bowl, add about 3 T. of chickpea flour and mix well with a large wooden spoon or with your hands. Pinch the mixture together with your thumb and forefinger. It should hold together. If it is too loose, add more chickpea flour as needed until you have a cohesive, sticky mass. Cover the mixture with plastic wrap and leave it in the fridge for at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours. When ready to cook, with dampened hands, form balls about 1-inch in diameter, the size of whole walnuts, and place them on a baking sheet until you are ready for frying. Fill a deep medium saucepan with enough canola oil to come up the sides of the pot about 3 inches. Heat the oil to 350 F. Use a thermometer as the oil temperature is the single most vital factor in ensuring a crisp, non-oily result. Fry the falafel in batches of 5 or 6, depending on the size of your pot, for about 7 minutes, until they are well-browned. Use a wooden chopstick to gently push the falafel balls around in the hot oil as they fry, to help them brown evenly on all sides. Make sure to not crowd your pot, as this lowers the temperature of the oil. Remove the cooked falafel balls with a spider tool or slotted spoon and place them on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Continue frying until all the falafel balls are done. Serve immediately. These can be frozen and reheated in a 350 F. oven if necessary, but are best when fresh. Falafel need this kind of love: serve in a pita pocket bread with diced tomatoes and cucumbers, red onion, sliced dill pickles and zhoug.
ZHOUG Herby, hot and heady, adapted from Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi.
1 c. of flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 bunch of cilantro, leaves and stems, about 2 c., washed and dried
Yemenite zhoug, a fiery sauce.
½ bunch flat-leaf Italian parsley, leaves and stems, about 1 c., washed and dried 2 jalapeño peppers, stems removed, coarsely chopped (use the seeds for heat; remove if you want a milder version)
CINNAMON WALNUT RUGELACH COOKIES From The Pleasures of Your Food Processor by Norene Gilletz
¼ t. cardamom seeds
1 ball of cream cheese dough (½ of the recipe above; the other half can be frozen and used later for pie)
¼ t. granulated sugar
2/3 c. walnut pieces
¾ t. kosher salt
1/3 c. granulated sugar
2 large garlic cloves, crushed
1 t. ground cinnamon
2 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 egg white, lightly beaten
Continued from page 14
2 T. cold water
Preheat your oven to 375 F.
Late to the Table (Tuscany)
Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until you have a coarse paste. Be careful not to overmix, as you want to simulate the texture you would get from a grinding stone. Taste for seasoning and adjust to your taste. Store in the fridge for up to three weeks. Yields about 1 cup.
Process walnuts, sugar and cinnamon in a food processor until fairly fine, about 12 - 15 seconds. Set aside.
Pollo Alla Chiantigiana (adapted from a recipe by the Dante Alighieri Society’s School of Language, Culture, and Italian Cuisine in Siena)
½ t. ground cumin
Next up, for your baking enjoyment:
RUGELACH, miniature, flaky crescent
cookies, the darling dessert of European Jewish kitchens. I am fond of the cinnamon walnut varietal, old school. Israelis are big on a Nutella rendition, new school. I offer you my family favourite, the former. Start with an easy cream cheese pastry dough, simple to assemble in a food processor.
CREAM CHEESE PASTRY From The Pleasures of Your Food Processor by Norene Gilletz
½ pound unsalted butter, cut into chunks ½ pound full fat cream cheese, cut into chunks 2 c. all-purpose flour 4 T. granulated sugar
Divide your ball of dough further into 2 balls. Roll out the first portion of dough on a floured surface into a circle about 1/16” thick. Sprinkle dough with about ¼ c. of the cinnamon/nut mixture. With your fingers, gently press the mixture down into the dough to help it adhere. Cut into the dough with a sharp knife to form 12 equal triangles. Roll each triangle from the outside edge towards the centre. Repeat with all the triangles. Then repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
2 lb. chicken pieces
Dip each cookie first in egg white, then in the remaining cinnamon/nut mixture. Place cookies on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, leaving at least 1 inch between the cookies. Bake cookies for 18 – 20 minutes, until browned. Yields 2 dozen cookies. They freeze well.
2 garlic cloves, minced
Israel is many things, full of contradictions: old and new, ancient and modern, Jewish and Palestinian, religious and secular. There are high mountains to hike in, and the lowest place on earth, the Dead Sea, to float in. I went to Israel not to unravel its challenges, not even to understand them, but to taste it and feel it. And that, I did.
Laura Di Lembo loves to travel the world with her mouth open. Rugelach cookies
Combine all the ingredients in a large food processor bowl and process until the dough forms a ball on the blades, about 20 - 30 seconds. Carefully remove the dough, divide it into two pieces and form each piece into a ball. It can be used right away or wrapped well in plastic wrap until you are ready. Refrigerate wrapped dough if you are not using it immediately. Georgian Khachapuri bread
Simit breads from the Carmel market in Tel Aviv
salt & pepper, to taste 6 T. olive oil 2 celery stalks, diced 2 carrots, diced 2 onions, diced
2 c. Chianti wine 1/3 c. golden raisins 1/3 c. pine nuts 1 hot chile, sliced 8-10 sage leaves, sliced 5-6 cherry tomatoes Season chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add chicken pieces and cook, turning regularly with tongs, until well-browned. Remove chicken pieces and set aside. In the same pot, cook celery, carrots, onions, and garlic until lightly browned. Return chicken to pot and stir in Chianti, scraping with a wooden spoon to loosen brown bits. Cook at mediumhigh heat until the Chianti is reduced to a thick sauce. Stir in raisins, pine nuts, chile, sage and cherry tomatoes. If sauce is thicker than you like, stir in a little chicken broth to desired consistency. Serves 4. Falafel and hummus from the old city of Jerusalem
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tourists who flock to this bustling port city aboard hulking cruise ships.
A A TASTE
FOR FOR TAPAS TAPAS AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES IN MALAGA, SPAIN by Erin Lawrence
The opportunity to try new and unique regional delicacies is why so many of us love to travel. But gazing down at a plate of fresh, raw, multi-hued and somewhat mysterious shellfish, I was trying to work up the courage to slurp one up. “Pruebalo! Try it! Muy delicioso—very very good!” encouraged the bartender with a nod and a big grin. It probably didn’t help that while psyching myself up for the mollusk known as concha fina, I was watching another bundle of knife-shaped invertebrates wriggle around in the display case. Following my gaze, the bartender repeated his limited English; “Muy delicioso—very very good! Navajas! Very typical here.” “How do you cook them?” I asked in Spanish. “No cooking!” exclaimed the bartender, tapping on the shells so the navajas squirmed frantically. “Fresca!” The prospect of eating something still alive and slithering made the Concha Fina seem tame by comparison and since it was was just one bite, I decided to go for it. The beauty of eating tapas in Spain is that you’re never laden with a plate of food if you just want a taste. You’ve definitely heard of tapas, but trust me -- if you’re eating them anywhere but in Spain, you’re almost certainly doing it wrong. Tapas are a staple of Spanish life, but the right way to have tapas is pretty far from what we get in North America, which tends to be a full-sized appetizer. Historically, tapas are small or single bites of food served in Spain when a customer orders a drink. The origin of this tradition seems to be lost to the shifting sands of time. Depending on who you ask, tapas originated when barkeepers used small pieces of sausage to cover the mouth of a bottle to keep bugs out. A ‘tapa’ in Spanish quite literally means lid, so this is plausible. Still other versions of the tapas tale have bar and restaurant owners serving small wedges of pungent cheeses or cured meats to mask the taste of sub-par wines. If you want the regal version of tapas history, you can thank King Alphonso X of Spain’s Castille region for getting so sick he could only eat and drink in small amounts, thus creating a sympathetic trend for his subjects. Whichever version of history you like, tapas is no trend in Spain — it’s a lifestyle. Depending on where you go in the country, you’ll have very different tapas experiences. Malaga, along Spain’s southern coast, is a uniquely hybrid tapas experience; there’s the very traditional old world tapas experience the locals have, and then there’s a more expensive and generic version for the tens of thousands of
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A handful of tapas bars are still doing it the old way, serving you a small dish of something fresh (often anchovy-laced olives) when you order your drink, and enticing you to nibble at more by laying out tempting trays in glass showcases along the bar. While the tourist-type places hug the port and seaside, if you venture further into Malaga’s old city, you’ll find some extraordinary and uniquely regional delicacies. Be warned, getting authentic tapas in those tourist areas is getting harder, with many establishments that cater to travellers dishing out what some might call “fake tapas” like potato chips, mixed nuts or other international bar snacks like rice cracker mix.
Order a glass of something and olives will certainly appear. Then ask what’s fresh or on special offer that day. Look for lightly battered and deep fried crispy baby squids (camarones) and in some cases, fragrant paellas. At our favourite stall, Marisqueria El Yerno, we loved the friendly service and great grill skills of the couple manning the tiny stall and we sampled several new things thanks to the kindly service—the concha fina being one. Concha fina is a type of regional
Take your cues from the locals and order what they do, or ask the barkeeper what her favourite tapa is. Expect to pay about 2 to 5 Euros per tapa, and don’t forget to specify you want a tapa size plate, since some bartenders will hopefully offer you a racion, significantly more food at a much higher price. In some cities in Spain, such as Madrid, tapas are often free with your drink, but elsewhere, expect a bill.
Antigua Casa de Guardia Begin your tapa tour early in the day at this historic vermouth house. There’s no sign out front, and it’s only by chance we walked past it and saw dozens of wooden casks piled floor to ceiling. Sidle up to the bar and the gentleman will pour you small glasses of various kinds of vino dulce de Malaga, or sweet wine. The barkeep will write what you’ve sampled on the slate bar in chalk, then add up your bill in front of you when you’ve had enough.
Atarazanas Market Make your next stop the central city or Atarazanas market. Here, fishmongers line up alongside fresh fruit and vegetable merchants and a huge selection of butchers. Tucked into the corners and outside the bustling and buzzy market are several bars serving authentic seafood tapas. You can sit outside and have a waiter bring your food, or do like the locals do and lean on the bar inside.
shellfish, recognizable by its white, orange and yellow flesh. Admittedly, they were creepy looking but really delicious, with a little fresh lemon juice and a dash of pepper. They’re light and have the taste of a fresh oyster, but are much firmer. Large swirly and spiny-shelled busanos were another shellfish we’d never tried before. They’re served cooked and have a meaty texture and a light, salty and non-fishy taste. Boquerones are the ubiquitous tapa in Malaga. The word boqueron (pronounced bo-care-rhone) is a local nickname for white anchovies, though numerous purveyors told us they’re “similar, not the same.”
Bar Jamones The young proprietors at Jamones are doing amazing things with food in a tiny space. We tried numerous delicious bites here including
olives and salt cod it’s a combination that may sound wrong (fishy potato salad?) but it tastes so right.
the secret behind the look ...
Farola de Orellana
surprisingly creamy and tasty squid ink croquettes, a crispy fried, cork-sized bechamel bite that’s ubiquitous across Spain, as well as squid ink noodles.
La Tranca Filled with locals or boquerones as Malagans are also nicknamed (yes, just like the anchovy tapa), this place is bustling, vibrant, and serves a variety of local tapas. On the day we visited, tasty roasted red peppers with meat sauce and a tangy tomato topping were on offer.
El Tunel de Pimpi Another place we went back to again and again, despite its location in the heart of the old city’s tourist zone, is El Tunel de Pimpi. Expect to wait before
An appearance at this small locally run spot on a Sunday earned us a plate of the best paella we’ve had in ages. Thick, sticky, and rich with flavour and loaded with seafood, this dish was inhaled in minutes, and around us, even the locals were ordering a second plate.
Cortijo de Pepe This spot was filled with locals on a busy Saturday afternoon and the bartenders were also working the grill, cooking up fresh octopus. We asked for a recommendation and got a dish of warm beans and ham. Next up were thin and creamy slices of eggplant covered in a tomato meat sauce.
Get a drink and some of the best views in Malaga Sometimes you just want to sit and contemplate the world. There are a few good places to do that in Malaga.
El Ambigú One of the best places in town for a drink and a gorgeous view, this restaurant is situated along one of the rising ramps that lead up to (or down from) the Castillo de Gibralfaro that presides over the glittery port city, high up Gibralfaro mountain.
you can get a bartender’s attention or even before you can get near the bar here, but it’s worth it. The grilled squid is tender and flavourful and served in small bite-sized pieces, but it’s the Malaga-style potato salad (ensalada Malagueña) that’s the must try here. Made with fresh orange segments,
This newish-looking place has friendly service, a nice wine selection and a sunny terrace that overlooks the vast parks and pedestrian streets.
Gran Hotel Miramar
A T D A L H O U S I E S T A T I O N 403.286.5220 www.zestkitchenware.com
Unleash your senses,
You’ll pay North American prices for drinks here but the views from the rooftop terrace at Gran Miramar are worth it. It’s located right on the beach, and the building rises about seven stories so you’ll feel like a bird as you sit on the open air terrace sipping a nice glass of Spanish wine or beer. Eating authentic tapas is an unforgettable experience. Whether you hunt down some of these places, or explore and discover your own haunts. If you have the opportunity to visit Malaga, you’ll see it has a rich food culture featuring old Spanish classics, and nouveau cuisine. Erin Lawrence is a Calgary TV producer, journalist, and freelance writer who loves food, technology and travel. Find her online at ErinLYYC.com or on Twitter & Instagram @ErinLYYC
bolerocalgary.com 403-259-3119 6920 Macleod Trail S, Calgary, AB T2H 0L3 CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
By Richard White
As the days get longer, many Calgary golfers start to ponder when their course will open. They can actually get the yips – a golf term for shaky hands when putting – waiting for them to open. For those who can’t wait, there is always Sunday brunch at Canyon Meadows, Woodside or Priddis Greens golf courses. Yes, they are open to the public for brunch. And yes, sometimes it takes almost as long to enjoy brunch as it does to play 18 holes of golf. Our first stop on this brunch tour is Canyon Meadows (home to the annual Shaw Charity Classic golf tournament that has raised $34 million for children’s charities in Alberta), where the huge west-facing dining room windows offer spectacular views of the Rockies and Fish Creek Park, just a nine iron away from your table. Each week, Canyon Meadows chef Kevin Stephenson’s team prepares 20+ dishes for patrons (that is what they would call you at the Augusta National Golf Course, home to The Masters) to enjoy. The signature hot dishes are the marinated and slow roasted AAA inside round of Alberta Beef, seared at 600 degrees and carved fresh, and the fresh from the press buttermilk waffles from their vintage waffle iron that dates back to 1957. Their signature cold dishes include a local charcuterie board featuring Valbella meats from Canmore, house-cured and smoked fish and ceviche and cold sliced beef in an arugula blue cheese pesto sauce. The drink features are the $4 mimosas and Canyon caesars. For those of you who live on the north side of town, the Airdrie’s Woodside Golf Course’s Sunday Brunch has been a huge hit with golfers and non-golfers for over 10 years. Their brunch in The Woods (not to be confused with Tiger Woods) restaurant and patio has been voted Airdrie’s Best Brunch for ten years in a row by the readers of the local newspaper CityView. And, unlike the other two brunches it is open year-
round. Executive Chef Li Luo has been creating what they like to call a “deliciously outrageous experience.” It includes eight hot stations, with the most popular, by far, being the eggs benedict and eight cold stations that include a popular sushi station and smoked fish platter. The four dessert stations include a chocolate fountain and house-made profiteroles. Kids love going for brunch at Woodside. Not only do they love dipping marshmallows or fresh fruit into the chocolate fountain (who doesn’t!), but they also have giant checkers and chess boards just outside the dining room. Shauna Quinn, a busy mom and Airdrie’s Tourism Development Officer told me “brunching at the Woodside restaurant has always been a hidden gem to the Airdrie community. Not only are the flavours fresh, the food selection plentiful but the views from the golf course any time of year, are serene and spectacular. The best part for me -- I feel welcome, even in what could resemble PJ’s, as do my three kids and my parents in tow. It’s simply great food, great value and an easy morning out of the house.” Priddis Greens Golf and Country Club brunch is not only an edible feast, but a visual one also. Driving in the foothills in the winter can be a magical experience and the view from Priddis’ Grandview dining room -- the name is perfect -- is stunning. Franck Trutet, the clubhouse manager who recently joined the Priddis Team from the prestigious Hamilton Golf and Country Club (home of the 2019 Canadian Open), will be experimenting with some new ideas this winter/spring, while making sure the current favourites are still available. He and Executive Chef Patrick Sturmer are looking to add some more fun kids’ items, like a cookie or ice cream station or perhaps a hot chocolate
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
station where kids can add their own marshmallows, smarties or sprinkles. Adults can add Bailey’s or Irish Cream! He is also looking to add some French twist things like an oyster station, or perhaps a bread station and maybe even some mulled wine. Grant Hansen a member of Priddis Golf and Country Club loves not only the beautiful setting but the quality of the food and the friendliness of the servers. He says “for many years we have come to expect another great dining experience whenever we go for brunch and we have never been disappointed.”
and wake up late, should have a hybrid meal midday that combines hearty meat dishes followed by tea and pastries to shake off the headaches and gurgling stomachs. The meal should also include sharing the previous evening’s tales with family and friends. His theory was the sharing of food and stories makes people feel happier.
He particularly likes the “action stations,” be it the carving station where the chef will slice off a piece of prime rib exactly to your liking, or the omelette station where you can choose as few or many ingredients as you wish. He loves watching his grandchildren ponder which of the 30+ items to choose and then come back with a big grin on their face when they show their parents and grandparents what they have picked. Some of the kids like to start at the dessert station and never get to the other stations.
Brunch 101 Did you know the inspiration for brunch is the hangover? I did not. Turns out Guy Beringer, an English author, proposed the concept in his 1895 essay, “Brunch: A Plea.” His theory was that people who drink heavily on Saturday nights
And who doesn’t want to feel happier!
Sunday Brunches at a Glance: Canyon Meadows Brunch 10 :00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., until March 31st Adults $30 / Seniors 65+ $25 / Child (5 – 12) $12.50 / 4 & under complimentary
Reservations: 403-281-1188 ext 103 Woodside Golf Club Brunch 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. year-round Adults $21.95 / Seniors $16.95 / Children (4 to 10) $12.95 and under 3 $5.95
Reservations: 403-948-7416 Priddis Greens Brunch 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. until April 15th, 2019 Adults $39.95 / Seniors 65+ $36.95 / Children (3 to 12) $20.95 and under 3 are free (as of December 2018, subject to change)
Reservations: 403-931-3171 Richard Wite is aka The Everyday Tourist, find him at everydaytourist.ca and email@example.com
HOME MADE FROZEN CURRIES TO GO!
@ The Mercantile
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
STIRRINGS AROUND CALGARY
Great Events Group has partnered with Dinner4Four Co. to host an exclusive dome dinner at the Bow Valley Ranche Restaurant this upcoming Spring. For a full month, Soirée in the Valley will completely transform the Bow Valley Ranche Restaurant’s backyard, immersing guests into a popup creative dinner Calgary has never experienced before. Twelve designed domes will fill the Native Gardens in Fish Creek Park, imagining a concept place that blends nature, art and food into a unique culinary experience. Guests will be able to enjoy the night sky and the beauty of the surroundings, while indulging in an elegant 4-course meal expertly crafted by Chef Jenny Kang of the Bow Valley Ranche Restaurant and Chef Daryl Kerr of Great Events Catering. Visit www.bvrrestaurant.com/domedinner-calgary-2019 for all the tasty details.
River Café reopens at the end of April after a lot of building lifecycle maintenance and flood mitigation work.The staff has been travelling, researching and testing new recipes for the new menus. Reservations back on line April 1 just in time for Mother’s Day! Deane House offers a $20 3-course lunch and $65 gourmet tasting menu to honour our mothers. The inaugural YYC Food & Drink EXP, March 1 – 10. The weekly Sunday Supper features live jazz, family-style 3-course dinner, free corkage for $45, menu changes weekly. And more: Chef’s Tasting Menu, offered nightly, Extraordinary High Tea, Deane’s Library Series 2019, dates and tickets at www.deanehouse. com and Easter Weekend serving weekend brunch from 10 a.m. - 3 p.m.
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
COOKING CLASSES SAIT Downtown Culinary Campus: February 25 to March 18, Intermediate Cooking; March 1 to 30, Cake Decorating; March 2, Artisan Bread; March 7, Caribbean; March 8, Viennoiserie; March 14, Vietnamese; March 15, Date Night; March 16 & 23, Introduction to Cooking; March 21, East Coast; March 25 to April 15, Advanced Cooking; March 28, Portuguese; March 30, Artisan Bread; April 4, Desserts; April 5, Date Night; April 11, Knife Skills; April 13, Assorted Buns; April 27, Artisan Bread. Main Campus: February 25 to March 14, Bar Mixology; March 2 & 9, Introduction to Baking; March 5, Thailand; March 16, Assorted Buns; March 19, Knife Skills: Butchery; March 23, Viennoiserie; March 23, Bean to Bar; March 26, Vegetarian; March 27 to April 24, Introduction to Cooking; March 29, Date Night; March 30, Sausage Making; April 2, Herbs and Spices; April 5, India; April 6, Viennoiserie; April 6, Chocolate; April 6, Baking Cakes; April 12, Sushi; April 13, Fondant; April 16, Savoury Brunch; April 30, Thailand. The Tastemarket by SAIT: March 1 & 12, Date Night. Visit www.culinarycampus.ca for details and more courses. The Cookbook Co. Cooks: A Night Out Couples Class, March 1; Pie and Pastry Making Workshop, March 2 morning; Vietnamese Cooking, March 2 afternoon; A Night Out Couples Class, March 2 evening; Kids’ Baking (ages 8+) March 3, morning; Mother’s Day Kids’ Baking, March 3, morning; The Heart of the Kitchen Soups and Quick Breads, March 3, afternoon; Confident Cooking 1, March 6; Girls Night Out Cocktails & Hors D’Oeuvres, March 7; Italian Farmhouse Menu, March 10, morning; French Farmhouse Menu, March 10, afternoon; Tagines Stews from Morocco, March 11; Perfecting Paella, March 12; Confident Cooking 11, March 13; Handmade Stuffed Pasta, Ravioli, Agnolotti and more, March 14; Get Them in the Kitchen! Kids’ Cooking (ages 8+), March 23, morning; French Pastry Workshop, Ways with Pâté à Choux, March 24; Spring Break Kids’ Camp (ages 8 – 11), March 26 & 28, morning; A Culinary Bootcamp Just For Men!, March 31, morning and afternoon. And lots of good classes coming up in April and May. Visit www.cookbookcooks.com for all the classes and details. Cuisine et Chateau: Hands-on classes: Moroccan Flair, March 1; The 4 elements – grilling, curing, smoking, marinating, Mar 2 @10:30 am; A Wok Through Asia, Mar 2, Apr 20; Intro to Bread, Mar 3; Easy Thai, Mar 7, Apr
13; Simply Italian, Mar 8, Apr 6; Table for Two, Mar 9, Apr 5; Best of Brunch, Mar 10; A Twist on Sushi, Mar 13, Apr 7; Made in France, Mar 14, Apr 19; From New Delhi With Love, Mar 15, Apr 26; Gluten-Free Baking, Mar 16 @10am; Knife Skills, Mar 21, April 17; Around the Mediterranean, Mar 22; Cheese Making, Level 1, Mar 23, Apr 20; Indochine, April 23; Artisan Breads (2 Days) Mar 24 & 31; A Taste of Spain, Mar 28; Cocina Mexicana, Mar 29, Apr 18; Spanish Tapas, Mar 30, Apr 25; Cooking 101 (4 days), April 1-29; Veggie Power, Apr 3; Stocks & Sauces, Apr 6; A Fish Tale Apr 10; Family Chocolate Class, Apr 19 @ noon; Everything Chocolate, Apr 20 @11am; Cakes! (2 Day) Apr 2728; Wine & Food Series, “Pinot Noir,” Mar 16 @ 4pm; Wine & Food Series, “Battle of the Andes,” Apr 20 @ 4:30 pm. For more information please visit www.cuisineandchateau.com or call 403-764-COOK (2665). Culinary Travel – Normandy, Fall 2019: With the seventh season successfully come and gone, Cuisine et Chateau is in preparation for the 2019 all-inclusive travel tours to the heart of the Cotentin peninsula (also called the Cherbourg Peninsula) of Normandy. Guided by the professional team of chefs, stay in a luxurious 18th century manor and meet a variety of gastronomic artisans, oyster farmers, purveyors, in a seven-day all-inclusive immersive gastronomic experience, that will forever change the way you think about food. The dates of the upcoming tours are Sept. 22-28, Sept. 29-Oct. 5, Oct. 6-12. An information session covering all the details is scheduled for Sunday March 10 at 4 p.m. This Session will cover any questions and concerns as well as provide an in-depth explanation of the tour and its itinerary. You don’t want to miss this exciting opportunity to be a part of Cuisine et Chateau’s next chapter in the historic heart of the of Normandy.
GENERAL STIRRINGS Spearheaded by Culinary Marketing Strategies, the founding partners of Big Taste, which ended its highly successful run in 2018, YYC Food & Drink Experience is set to take place March 1 -10. Calgary’s new annual dining festival will be a unique opportunity for diners to enjoy Calgary’s outstanding food scene at a wide range of price points, featuring ten days of prix fixe menus at the city’s favourite restaurants, along with a dining series of curated culinary events highlighting the best of YYC’s chefs, restaurants, bartenders, craft beer, wines, and spirits. Check the ad on the back cover
and visit www.foodanddrinkexp.com for details. Lots of spring activities at Heritage Park:
March 2-3 Maple Festival des SucresFrench Canadian festival celebrating Francophone, Metis and First Nation’s Heritage with traditional food, art, music and activities. Maple taffy on snow and a special traditional breakfast offered. www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/maple-festival-des-sucres-breakfast.html March 5 & 19, April 2 & 16 Dinner and a Movie Enjoy a three-course, movie-themed dinner in the Selkirk Grille followed by a classic movie on the big screen in Gasoline Alley museum. www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/dinner-a-movie.html March 16 Shamrocks and Shenanigans Celebration of great food, music and beer! Third annual St. Paddy’s Day party with Big Rock and Heritage Park! www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/shamrocks-shenanigans.html March 22 & April 26 Friday Night FlightsWine pairing dinners in the Selkirk Grille. www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/friday-night-flights. html March 28 & April 25 - Games Night at the Selkirk Grille NEW! Games Night at the Selkirk Grille features everything from classic board games to epic role-playing marathons, and everything in between, plus a great bar menu and no cover! www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/games-night-at-theselkirk-grille.html April 19-21 Easter Tea at Heritage Park Elegant afternoon tea served in the beautiful dining room of the Famous 5 Centre of Canadian Women. www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/easter-teas.html April 11 Big Rock Brewing Workshop Learn how to brew craft beer, from start to finish in this small, hands-on evening workshop. www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/big-rock-brewingworkshop.html April 13 Cooking through the decades Spend an afternoon in one of Calgary’s oldest homes cooking recipes using the techniques and ingredients available in the 1880s. www.heritagepark.ca/plan-your-visit/ event-calendar/our-culinary-beginnings-livingston-house.html
Immerse in the history Indulge in the food Weddings | Corporate | A la Carte
bvrrestaurant.com | (403) 476-1310 15979 Bow Bottom Trail SE, Calgary AB
STACK UP YOUR STAMPEDE PARTY stampede breakfasts | summer bbqs | corporate events | weddings
rarecut.ca | firstname.lastname@example.org | 403.256.7150
a division of great events catering
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
the ultimate in refined living
CASUALLY ELEGANT. UNIQUELY VINTAGE.
WEEKDAY EXPRESS LUNCH Two-course $20 | Three-course $25
Premier 40+ Resort Style Community Located on Calgary’s Picturesque Fish Creek Park Wine Cellar | Movie Theatre | Games Room Fitness Centre | Swimming Pool | Bowling Alley Woodworking Shop & Much More 2330 Fish Creek Blvd S.W. Calgary, Alberta www.sandersonridge.ca Phone: 403-460-3771
T I M E L E S S LY T R U E
Exceptional taste comes with age. Alberta Prime and aged for at least 28 days, every steak served becomes the perfectly prepared centrepiece of the Hy’s experience.
H Y ’ S S T E A K H O U S E C A LG A RY AT T H E C O R E 8T H AV E & 3 R D S T | 4 0 3.6 6 3.3 3 6 3 | H YS S T E A K H O U S E.C O M
MARCH APRIL 2019
WEDNESDAY PRIX FIXE DINNER Three-course $40
THURSDAY HALF PRICE WINE Lunch and Dinner Select bottles of wine 50% off An opportunity to enjoy fine wines at an incredible price!
See our website for upcoming events: • Friday Night Flights • Dinner & A Movie • Games Nights • Shamrocks and Shenanigans Reservations Recommended 403.268.8607 or www.SelkirkGrille.ca OPEN TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY FOR LUNCH AND DINNER. OPEN SUNDAY FOR LUNCH. CLOSED MONDAY.
6 quick ways with...
Pork chops with fennel, green olives and black plums by Chris Halpin
Fennel is one of those things that I can’t explain why I like so much or why I had such a hard time settling on only six recipes to write about. As a general rule, I hate liquorice flavours! I would never drink pernod or sambuca! Maybe it’s the overtones of celery that temper it for me. At any rate – if you like liquorice, then you will love these recipes. If you’re on the fence, then try these recipes and you will be a convert.
Fennel and fig flatbread with St. Agur, black pepper Fennel and figs meld in such a way, that it is a perfect foil for blue cheese. Preheat the oven to 450°. Shave ½ a fennel bulb, place in a bowl with 2 T. olive oil, ½ t. salt and toss to evenly coat, set aside for later. In a large bowl, put 1 c. warm water, 1 t. salt, 1 t. sugar, 2 t. instant yeast and stir to dissolve. Stir in 2 c. flour and work into a ball. Coat your hands with olive oil and stretch the dough into a disc and place on a baking pan that you have sprinkled with cornmeal. Evenly spread ¼ c. fig jam and arrange the fennel, drizzle 2 T. whipping cream and dot with little bits of St. Agur blue cheese, about ½ c., generously grind black pepper over top and place in the oven. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until well browned and bubbling. Serves 2 to 4. Preserved lemon is key to getting an intense lemon flavour, without it being too acidic. Preheat oven to 375°. Finely chop the rind of 1 preserved lemon and place in a bowl. To this add 1 t. ground fennel seed, ½ t. chile flakes, 1 t. salt, 2 garlic cloves, finely minced, ¼ c. olive oil, mix well. Add 4 chicken thighs and rub this mixture into the skin. Then add 1 fennel bulb, sliced, 1 red pepper, sliced and 12 mushrooms cut in half. Give this a quick mix-up, place all in a casserole dish. Place in the oven and roast for about 25 to 30 minutes until the chicken skin is crispy and the chicken is cooked through. Serves 2 to 4.
Shaved fennel bulb and radicchio salad with grapefruit and seared scallops This is a fantastic starter salad. When I sear scallops, I use a technique that I learned from a person from Digby. I sear them from almost frozen. This allows you to get a beautifully browned crust, but still juicy and tender inside. Remove 6 large scallops from the freezer and run under cold water to remove any ice that may have collected on them. Place on a paper towel for later. Into a bowl put ½ a fennel bulb, finely shaved, 1 small radicchio, finely shaved, ¼ c. olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, mix well and set aside. With a knife, cut the rind away from 1 grapefruit, then cut out the segments and place on a plate for later. Place a pan over high heat and allow it to get very hot before adding ¼ c. canola oil. Sprinkle the scallops with 1 t. ground cumin seed, salt and pepper to taste. Place them into the pan and sear both sides for about 2 minutes or until evenly browned and crispy. Remove from pan and allow them to rest for about a minute. To plate, arrange some of the salad onto 2 plates, top with 3 scallops each, divide up the grapefruit segments and arrange over top of the scallops and drizzle with mirin. Serves 2.
The fennel, olives and plums make a wonderful melange that seems more like a sauce. Salt and pepper 2 pork chops. Place a skillet over high heat and allow the pan to get very hot before adding 2 T. butter and 1 T. olive oil. When the butter has melted, sear the pork on both sides for 4 minutes each. Reduce the heat to medium and add ½ a fennel bulb, diced, 1 shallot, diced, and sauté for about 5 minutes, turning the chops from time to time. When the pork is cooked to your liking, remove from the skillet and set aside. To the skillet add 1 c. green olives packed in brine, 2 under-ripe plums, sliced and sauté for a minute before adding ¼ c. white wine and 2 T. lemon juice, stir and adjust the salt. To serve, arrange the chops on 2 plates and spoon some of the sauce over each. Serve 2.
Chicken sausage with fennel, cannellini beans and grape tomatoes This is the quintessential dinner in a pan, with an Italian twist. Drain and rinse 1 can
of cannellini beans and set aside. In a skillet over medium heat put 2 T. butter, and allow this to melt before adding 4 chicken apple sausages, brown them on both sides for about 3 minutes each. Then add 1 fennel bulb, rough chopped, 1 small onion, rough chopped, 1 t. salt and sauté for another 5 minutes, also turning the sausages from time to time. When the fennel is tender, add the beans and 2 c. grape tomatoes. Cover with a lid and reduce the heat to simmer for another 5 minutes. When the sausages are cooked, remove from the skillet and set aside. To the skillet add 4 basil leaves, thinly sliced, 1 garlic clove, minced and give it a stir to evenly mix. Serve 2 to 4.
Fennel orange whoopie pies with brown butter icing Whoopie pies are cookies that want to be cake. Preheat the oven to 350°. Into a bowl put 2 c. flour, 1 c. sugar, 1 t. baking powder, 1 t. ground fennel, a pinch of salt, mix well. Into another bowl, put ¼ c. orange marmalade and 1 egg, whisk together. Then add ½ c. canola oil, ½ c. water and beat well. Add the dry ingredients and stir until smooth. Onto a parchment lined baking sheet, drop 24, 2 T. sized balls of batter. Place in the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until golden and they spring back when you poke the centre. Remove and allow to cool. While the pies are baking, make the icing. Into a pot, put ½ c. butter, place over medium-high heat and allow the butter to brown, about 5 minutes or until it smells nutty and is a medium dark brown. Remove from the heat, stir in ½ t. vanilla and 2 c. icing sugar. When the whoopie pies have fully cooled, smear some of the icing on one cookie and sandwich with another. Makes 12. Chris Halpin has been teaching Calgarians to make fast, fun urban food since 1997 and is the owner of Manna Catering Service. mannaonline.com. Recipe photos by Chris Halpin.
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019 25
back burner shewchuk on simmer
THESE ARE SOME OF THE INGREDIENTS IN OUR RECIPE OF SUCCESS
Murrieta’s is pleased to welcome two exceptionally talented culinary professionals into our ranks. Dave Bohati - head chef of Murrieta’s Calgary, has spent over ten years working in kitchens around Canada, earning achievements in prestigious culinary championships. Mitch Vernaroli - mixologist and self-proclaimed cocktail enthusiast, has played a key role in Calgary’s ever-evolving cocktail culture. Murrieta’s Calgary looks forward to a fruitful future of working with both gentlemen to bring the best food and drink Calgary has to offer.
200 – 808 1st Street SW | 403.269.7707 | murrietas.ca | ? @
our take on the classic
It’s difficult to find comfort in the long winter of the Great White North, which stretches into May. Gone are sunny days where I can enjoy a long walk to an outdoor patio, sit down to a bottle of rosé wine and feel the warmth on my face. To avoid the Seasonal Affective Disorder blues, I switch to my cold weather playbook. I pop corks on earthy French vins rouge, cook hearty carb-filled one-pot meals and get the fireplace glowing. And for the ultimate in pleasure, after dinner, once the dishwasher is filled and the kitchen cleaned, I pour a tumbler of wine, open my laptop and head to YouTube for a few hours of therapeutic surfing. But unlike most people, I don’t watch flash mobs at malls or Russian car accident clips – I’m addicted to watching chefs show me their cooking secrets. I think the satisfaction I derive from a behind-the-scenes look at cooking was born out of the number of times I have been in restaurants and have asked if the chef will tell me how a dish was done, only to be met with an outright refusal to reveal the recipe or even speak to me. As a cooking instructor, I find a fellow cook being so secretive insulting, since I’ll tell anyone who asks me how I rustle up any dish. As a result, I love that YouTube gives me access to kitchens, especially in restaurants. A good example is Del Posto in New York City, which posts high-end videos of its famous Italian dishes while showing the complicated steps its chefs take along the way to creating them. The more complicated, the better, as far as I’m concerned, as I can pause or repeat the clip as much as I want. The kitchen and the food are so beautiful that I am in hog heaven. I also like the fact that YouTube features “related” videos on a sidebar, so I can branch off to another recipe from another chef and see where it takes me. However, I have learned to be wary, because some YouTube videos can take you where you don’t want to go. My trip to the shocking side of culinary YouTube started when I was watching gorgeous clips from chefs in Italy and I noticed a video in the sidebar that had the simple title, “Three Cheese Pizza Blend.” Curiosity got the better of me and I clicked on it. Up came the image of a dimly lit small kitchen with a guy in terrible chef-wear standing at a small counter with an empty big glass bowl in front of him, and three smaller bowls of cheese around it. He started out by saying he was going to show how to make a three-cheese blend for pizza (which explains the title of the video, I guess). He went on to say, “First, you start with shredded mozzarella. Then a shredded provolone. Then a freshly grated parmesan.” He then poured all three of the cheeses in the larger bowl and mixed them together with his hand and finished with, “That’s how you make a three-cheese blend for your pizza.” The video ended. I sat in stunned silence. Somebody actually made this for educational purposes? Why am I not a YouTube star?
After composing myself, I immediately sent the video link to my cooking friends. Their responses were hilarious. One said she wouldn’t attempt the recipe because she was intimidated that he had not shown her how to grate the cheese first. To that, someone else replied, “A magician never reveals his tricks.” Another wrote that she would have to repeat the technique shown in the video over and over until she had the confidence to try a “quattro formaggi” blend, since the challenge of mixing four cheeses was too overwhelming.
I did some searching and was horrified to find that there are far worse “cooking” videos out there. For example, on Ashwin’s Hip Foods YouTube channel, the host talks in rap and makes gang signs with his hands. In one episode, he “teaches” how to make zucchini noodles by simply cutting a zucchini in half and turning it in a spiralizer. None of his instructional videos is over a minute long. I gasped as I read that Ashwin has more than 20,000 YouTube followers. I concluded that we have reached the “dumbing down” tipping point as a society.
+ alberta made
Conveniently available in a 4 pack of cans for any Adventure you encounter.
So I’m heading for dumbed-down YouTube cooking fame. Watch for my first lesson: “Toast -- it’s not just bread anymore.” Stay tuned…(and if you need to know about mixing cheese for pizza, take a look at this: www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfxpwbWBNuU)
Allan Shewchuk is a lawyer, food writer and sought-after Itallian food and wine guru. He currently has kitchens in both Calgary and Florence, Italy, but will drink wine pretty much anywhere.
CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
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CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019
CALGARY FOOD & DRINK EXPERIENCE — March 1 to 10, 2019 — Join us for the YYC Food & Drink Experience, March 1 to 10. Over 50 of Calgary’s favourite restaurants will offer multi-course prix fixe meals paired with Wines of British Columbia, craft beer and cocktails. Plus there will be one-of-a-kind chef collaborations, international chef exchanges, intimate winemaker’s dinners and other appetizing culinary events. And that’s not all. The foodie fun continues all year long with even more special events celebrating the best chefs, restaurants, bartenders, wine, craft beer and spirits. ALFORNO BAKERY & CAFE • ALLOY • AÑEJO • ANJU • AVEC BISTRO • BAR MODERN • BEA’S EATERY AT BITE • BLANCO CANTINA • BLINK RESTAURANT AND BAR • BRASSERIE KENSINGTON • BREAD AND CIRCUS TRATTORIA • BRIDGETTE BAR • BRASSERIE KENSINGTON • BOW VALLEY RANCHE RESTAURANT • BUCHANAN’S CHOP HOUSE & WHISKY BAR • BUFFO • CALCUTTA CRICKET CLUB • CHARBAR • CHARCUT ROAST HOUSE • CUCINA MARKET BISTRO • DEANE HOUSE • DONNA MAC • DOUBLE ZERO • ESCOBA BISTRO & WINE BAR • FOREIGN CONCEPT • GORO + GUN MARKET • MODEL MILK • MODERN STEAK KENSINGTON AND STEPHEN AVENUE • MURRIETA’S BAR & GRILL • NATIONAL 17TH • NATIVE TONGUES • OX BAR DE TAPAS • OXBOW • PIGEONHOLE • Q HAUTE CUISINE RESTAURANT • RAW BAR • RICARDO’S HIDEAWAY • ROYALE • SHOE AND CANOE PUBLIC HOUSE • SHOKUNIN • TEATRO RISTORANTE • TEN FOOT HENRY • THE GUILD RESTAURANT • THE LIVING ROOM • TWO PENNY • VENDOME CAFE • WINEBAR KENSINGTON • YELLOW DOOR BISTRO
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CITYPALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2019