《夾心巧克力工藝 The Art of Chocolate Bonbon》

CONTENTS Chapter

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4 重新認識巧克力甘納許

A New Look at Chocolate Ganache x 法國甜點協會 Relais Desserts

38 巧克力調溫解析

Chocolate Tempering

Chapter 食譜 Recipe

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50 白蜜桃東方美人茶夾心巧克力 ( 灌模 )

White Peach and Dongfang Meiren Tea Bonbon ( in Mold )

58 巴薩米克酒醋夾心巧克力 ( 披覆 )

Balsamic Vinegar Palet D'or Chocolate Bonbon ( Coating )

66 鐵觀音覆盆莓生巧克力

Raspberry and Tea Nama Chocolate

70 熱帶水果蘭姆酒心巧克力 Bonbon

Tropical Fruit Rum Cockolate Bonbon

74 糖漬苦瓜巧克力

Dipped Candied Bitter Melon Slice

重新認識巧克力甘納許

A new look at chocolate ganache X

法國甜點協會

Relais Desserts

撰寫

By Ramon Morató

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協作作者 And with special collaboration of Anne Cazor (Scinnov)

甘納許 x Relais Desserts 法國甜點協會 Ganache x Relais Desserts 你可曾發現生活當中，充滿了多少「乳化作用」? 你可曾發現生活當中，為數不少的產品皆經過「乳化作用」? 就連從大自然本身，亦可發現各種乳化作用的存在，舉例來說 : 椰子果肉、酪梨和牛奶。使 用顯微鏡仔細觀察新鮮可可豆的內部，就可見可可脂受到可可豆自身內部的水分所乳化。 同樣的，生活中也存在各種人為的「乳化作用」，例如 : 美容霜、顏料、疫苗、洗髮乳，不可 忽略的還有料理中的美味醬料像美乃滋和番茄醬。 Did you know that we are surrounded by emulsions?

Did you know that there are a number of products based on an emulsion?

In nature itself, we find cases such as coconut pulp, avocado or cow's milk. For example, observing the inside of a fresh cocoa bean under a microscope, we can appreciate the presence of cocoa butter emulsified with the watery part of the bean.

Equally there are all of the emulsions developed by man, such as cosmetic creams, paints, vaccines or shampoos, and of course simple sauces such as mayonnaise or ketchup.

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「乳化」到底是什麼 ?

What is an emulsion ? 乳化指的是將原本不相容的兩種液體混合在一起 ( 最常見的範例 : 油和水 )，其中一種以液滴 (droplets) 的型式分布於另一液體中。最簡單樣態來說，乳化可以是這兩種類型：油分布於 水中 ( 例如：美乃滋 )、或是水分布於油中 ( 例如：人造奶油 ) 對於巧克力師而言，甘納許 - 是最極致的乳化呈現。 撇除不論僅使用單一原料巧克力且未進行任何混合的甜點創作，舉例來說巧克力鏡面、灌模 或裝飾片的製作。但在其他的應用中只要包含任何將巧克力和其他材料混合的動作， 「乳化 作用」即於此發生。 It is a mixture of two immiscible liquids (usually oil and water), one dispersed in the other in the form of droplets. In its simplest form, an emulsion can be of two types: oil in water (for example, mayonnaise) or water in oil (for example, margarine).

For the chocolatier, ganache represents the ultimate emulsion.

With the exception of the creations that use chocolate by itself (without mixing it) for glazes, moldings or decorations, each creation, every gesture that we make to mix chocolate with any other ingredients, begins with an emulsion.

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「甘納許」到底是什麼 ?

What is a ganache ? 甘納許屬於一種被應用於巧克力、甜點、烘焙當中的多用途內餡。 當中的兩大主要材料 : 巧克力和鮮奶油皆由複雜的顯微構造所組成。 巧克力為由蔗糖、可可和牛奶粒子組成以脂肪相 ( 可可脂 ) 形式存在的懸濁液。牛奶粒子則 出現於牛奶巧克力和白巧克力當中。這些粒子的大小約為 10 微米，所以人的口腔無法感知 (Auty et al., 2001)。可可脂屬同質多形體，平均熔點落在約 20ºC，固形脂肪含量約為 7080%。當溫度達到 37ºC 時，會被完全融化 (Pontillon, 1998)。 A ganache is a filling that is used in chocolaterie and patisserie for various specialties.

Its main ingredients, chocolate and cream, are formed individually by complex microstructures.

Chocolate is a suspension of particles of sucrose, cocoa and milk (the latter in the case of milk or white chocolate) in a fatty phase (cocoa butter). These particles have an approximate size of 10 microns, so they are not sensed in the mouth (Auty et al., 2001).

Cocoa butter is polymorph. It has an average melting point of around 20ºC and a solid fat content of 70-80%. At 37ºC, it is completely melted (Pontillon, 1998).

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「甘納許」到底是什麼 ?

What is a ganache ? 鮮奶油屬於水包油的乳化 (McGee, 2007)。乳脂受蛋白質和磷脂所穩定 (Bridier et al., 2015) 形成極為耐熱的脂肪球。在經過均質化的鮮奶油當中，脂肪球的尺寸可為 1 微米甚至更小 (Hayes et Kelly, 2003, Lopez et al., 2015)。其水相 (aqueous phase) 包含糖 ( 主要為乳糖 ) 和水 - 可溶性蛋白質。 我們可於這些基礎材料當中加入糖、奶油，甚至是可為甘納許增添風味的香料、香草、酒… 等。 甘納許可依食譜需求進行多種延伸應用，不同比例的原料搭配會製作出適合不同用途的甘納 許。舉例來說，松露巧克力和甘納許的製作過程如下：取一溫度 20° C 的固型脂肪作為材料（調 溫巧克力），接著加入各式液態或水溶性的的材料。以上兩種材料讓我們可以進行乳化作用， 進而改變巧克力的固態結構，後加入的液態或水溶性的的材料，經過處理、結晶和包覆，造 就出在室溫 20° C 下，呈現出質地滑順口感綿密的巧克力甘納許。 Cream is an oil-in-water emulsion (McGee, 2007). Milk fats are stabilized by proteins and phospholipids (Bridier et al., 2015) forming fatty globules that are very resistant to heat. In homogenized creams, these globules may have a size of 1 micron or less (Hayes et Kelly, 2003, Lopez et al., 2015). The aqueous phase contains sugars (mainly lactose) and water-soluble proteins.

To these elements we can add sugars, butter, as well as other ingredients to flavor the ganache, such as spices, herbs, alcohols, etc.

All of them can be used to a greater or lesser extent. These proportions will determine the different uses of the ganache. To prepare a truffle or ganache, we start with a fat and solid ingredient at 20°C, such as couverture, and then we add various watery or water-soluble ingredients. This allows us to make an emulsion and thus change the solid texture of the chocolate. Thanks to the added ingredients, after processing, crystallization and glazing, the ganache will have a smooth and creamy texture at room temperature (20°C).

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「甘納許」屬於何種乳化作用 ?

What type of emulsion is a ganache ? 照片中可見，其中一杯為水，另一杯則為油，溫度皆約落在 40ºC。

當加入一湯匙的甘納許進裝滿油的杯中，無論如何費力地進行混合攪拌，就是無法成功混合。 但當加入一湯匙的甘納許進裝滿水的杯中，經過數分鐘的攪拌，即完美混合，成為一杯巧克 力飲品。 經由此實驗可證，甘納許屬於水包油的乳化作用和脂肪懸濁液 ( 巧克力 )。 在巧克力鮮奶油 混合物中，鮮奶油常被認定為水相 (aqueous phase)，巧克力則為脂肪相 (fat phase)，所以 甘納許為乳化物。 當巧克力和鮮奶油混合，巧克力中的糖被鮮奶油中所含的水溶解。可可粒子並不會溶解，反 而會吸收水。可得結論 – 甘納許為水包油的乳化作用，裏頭的可可使水相 ( aqueous phase ) 增稠。 In the photograph there is a glass with water and a glass with oil at about 40ºC.

When pouring a spoonful of ganache into the glass with oil, no matter how much we mix or stir, the ganache will not be incorporated.

But if we do the same in the glass of water, after stirring it for a few minutes, we will see how well it mixes, creating a “chocolate drink”.

After this little experiment, we can say that ganache is a mixture of an emulsion of oil in water (cream) and a suspension of fat (chocolate). In the chocolate-cream mixture, the cream is often considered an aqueous phase and chocolate a fat phase, and therefore ganache is an emulsion.

The chocolate is mixed with the cream, and its sugars dissolve in the water of the cream. Cocoa particles do not dissolve, but instead, tend to absorb the water.

The ganache is therefore an emulsion of oil in water and the cocoa thickens the aqueous phase.

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市場需求 : 甘納許三大運用類型 Market : three contexts 以下列舉出常運用甘納許和巧克力的三大市場。 餐廳用甘納許

巧克力工作坊用甘納許

大量生產用甘納許

．使用新鮮食材製作。

．較少使用新鮮食材製作。

．保存期限為 1-7 天。

．保存期限為 30-90 天。

．使用高品質原料。

．使用高品質原料。

．使用新鮮食材製作。 甘納許成品的品質在客人品嚐前

然而，因為較長的保存期限，無

可於當下詢問客人的品嚐感受，

控管。

經過嚴格檢視。

並獲得即時的回饋。

法在客人品嚐前進行全面的品質

．保存期限為 6-12 個月。 ．較少使用高品質原料。

完全無法得知客人的品嚐感受， 並獲得相關回饋。

無法於當下詢問客人的品嚐感 受，並獲得即時的回饋。

We can list three contexts in which our ganache and our chocolate products can be used.

The restaurant ganache

The chocolatier ganache

・ A shelf-life between 1 and 7

・ A shelf-life between 30 and 90

・ Made from fresh products.

・ Made from fresh products.

days.

・ M a d e f r o m t o p - q u a l i t y products.

The quality of this ganache is strictly monitored until its tasting.

Also we inquire about the experience of the tasting. So that we can receive the clients feedback.

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days.

・ Made from top-quality products.

However, we no longer have complete control over it until the time of tasting.

Nor do we hear about the customer's

experience. No feedback sharing from the customer.

The mass distribution ganache

・ A shelf-life between 6 and 12 months.

・ A lower use of fresh products.

・ A lower use of top-quality products.

No possibility of monitoring until the time of tasting.

No possibility of monitoring about the customer's experience. No feedback sharing from the customer.

20º 在巧克力專賣店家中，關鍵溫度為 20ºC， 巧克力在被品嚐和販售前皆會以此溫度保 存。 就冰淇淋店家而言，產品的保存和品嚐溫度 則介於 -11 到 -14° C 之間。 就巧克力的製作而言，全程幾乎都控制在 20ºC。因此了解產品中的每個原料在 20ºC 時所呈現的狀態極為重要。 就如同大家所知，若想要試圖預想出產品的 最終樣貌，了解產品中所使用的每種原料的 組成和特性是不可或缺的一環。

In chocolaterie, there is a key temperature of 20ºC. It is the temperature at which the product is kept until it is sold or tasted.

A g l a c i e r, f o r i t s pa r t , d e v e l o p s i t s products for a consumption at a negative temperature between -11 and about -14° C. In our case, almost the whole process is at 20°C. Therefore, it is important to know what happens with each of the ingredients that make up that product at 20ºC.

As everyone knows, to get an idea of the final result of our products, it is essential to know the composition and the characteristics of the different ingredients used.

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甘納許的製作原料包含哪些 ?

What ingredients do we use to make a ganache ? 水相 (aqueous phase) 產品，水溶性或可 混溶於水中的材料 : ．液態鮮奶油 ．牛奶 ．水果果泥 ．浸漬液 ．糖 ．酒 ．雞蛋製品 ．牛奶蛋白 ．鹽 ．香草、香料、茶、咖啡… 乳化作用中的脂肪相 (fatty phase ) 產品 : ．免調溫巧克力和調溫巧克力 ．可可糰 ．榛果巧克力醬 ．堅果和帕林內醬 ．奶油 ．無水奶油 ．可可脂 ．卵磷脂 * 其他不可溶的產品像纖維或牛奶固形物會以懸濁液 (suspension) 的型式於水性的部分呈現。

Products for the aqueous phase, watersoluble or easily miscible in water, such as: ．Liquid cream ．Milk ．Fruit purées ．Infusions ．Sugars ．Alcohols ．Egg products ．Milk protein ．Salt ．Herbs, spices, teas, coffees, etc.

Products for the fatty phase of the emulsion: ．Chocolates and couvertures ．Cocoa mass ．Giandujas ．Nut and praline pastes ．Butter ．Anhydrous butter ．Cocoa butter ．Lecithin *Other non-soluble products such as fibers or

milk solids will be present as a suspension in the aqueous part.

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基本上你可以在甘納許中加入各種想加入的食材，盡情發揮創意，最後大都能結合食材混合出成功的甘納許。 問題在於到底哪些是不可使用的食材 ?

但純粹以功能性而論，去除異想天開的浪漫情懷，我們所選用的食材會決定下述根本的參數 : 總乾物質

基本上包含從不同的糖、脂肪、可可固形物、堅果、纖維、牛奶固 形物、鹽和其他存在的固形物含有的乾物質。總乾物質的組成會決 定甘納許的黏度、顏色和口感……等。

總水量

來自液態鮮奶油、浸漬液 (Infusions)、水果果泥和果汁、酒和利 口酒、新鮮奶油或糖漿的水總和。當總水量越高，品嚐起來就會越 新鮮和輕爽，但也可能會導致擁有較短的保存期限。在乳化的過程 當中，與其他材料相比，「水」扮演了極為重要的角色。

總脂肪量

各種脂肪來源的綜合，基本上來自於乳脂、可可脂、堅果中的油 脂。因為各種脂肪的熔點不同，所以將它們分成三類 : 脂肪熔點 0-20ºC ( 油 )、脂肪熔點 21- 32ºC ( 乳脂 )、脂肪熔點 33ºC 以上 ( 可 可脂 )。 當含有越高含量的高熔點脂肪 ( 可可脂 )，質地會越硬。反之亦然， 當含有越高比例的「乳脂」 ，口感越為綿密和油滑。當「油」的含量 約高，質地就越為滑順。

糖

來自各種調溫和免調溫巧克力中的糖，以及額外加入的糖例如轉化 糖漿、葡萄糖漿、純葡萄糖粉和山梨糖醇…等的總和。砂糖溶解於 水性的部分，取決於糖的總量和類型，能夠達到穩定內餡、防止水 分流失和幫助結晶…等功能。

可可固形物

為調溫巧克力中的非脂肪固形物總和，可幫助我們了解食譜中的可 可強烈度、顏色和黏性，因為巧克力中的非脂肪固形物屬不可溶性 纖維 (insoluble fiber) 在乳化物中呈現懸浮狀態。因此，非脂肪固 形物越多，黏性也越強。

其他固形物

為食譜中所有的香料粉末、牛奶固形物、纖維和其他以固形物型式 存在的成分總和。

純酒精

食譜中所使用的各種酒，是以純酒精、水甚至糖組成的，此部分指 的是裡面的純酒精。

Basically, a ganache can contain as many ingredients as we have at our disposal in the form of food, or all that through our creativity we are able to combine or mix with more or less success.

The question would rather be, what is it that we cannot use ?

But from a purely “functional” and less romantic point of view, the products we use will determine the following fundamental parameters: Total dry matter

It is basically the dry matter from the different sugars, fats and solids of cocoa, nuts, fibers, milk solids, salt and other solids that are present.

The composition of the total dry matter will determine the viscosity of the recipe, the color, the taste, etc.

Total water

It is the sum of the aqueous parts coming from the liquid cream, infusions, fruit purees and juices, alcohols, liqueurs, fresh butter or sugars in the form of syrup. The greater amount of total water, the higher feeling of freshness and lightness in the product, but also a possibility of a shorter shelf-life. Water plays a very important role in the creation of the emulsion alongside the rest of the ingredients.

Total fat

It is the total sum of the different fats that are present, basically the milk fat, the cocoa butter and the oils present in the nuts if they form part of the recipe. Because each of these fats has different melting points, we will divide them into three categories: F MP 0-20ºC (Oils), F MP 21- 32ºC (Milk fat matter) and F MP 33ºC or + (Cocoa butter).

The greater the amount of fat with a high melting point (cocoa butter), the harder the textures will be. The greater amount of milk fat, the creamier or the more unctuous textures. The higher amount of oils, the smoother the textures will be.

Sugars

It is the sum of the sugar (sucrose) from the different couvertures and chocolates along with the sugars added to the recipe such as invert sugar, glucose syrups, dextrose, sorbitol, etc. The sugars dissolve in the aqueous part and, depending on the quantity and type, help us to stabilize the filling, prevent its dehydration, crystallization, etc.

Cocoa solids

It is the sum of the non-fatty cocoa solids present in the couvertures.

This information will help us to know the intensity of cacao in the recipe, the color and the viscosity, since non-fatty cocoa solids are insoluble fibers that are in suspension in the emulsion. Therefore, the greater the amount, the greater the viscosity of the mass.

Other solids

It is the sum of the powdered spices, the milk solids, the fibers or other solid products present in the recipe.

Pure alcohol

The different alcoholic beverages used in recipes are composed of pure alcohol, water and, depending on the product, sugars. In this case, pure alcohol refers to the part of pure alcohol present in these beverages.

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甘納許的保存 Preservation 不在此進行甘納許保存的深入探討，但甜點 專業人士都非常了解，餡料保存的四大關鍵 : ．衛生 ．溫度 ．PH 值 ．水活性 (Water activity，簡稱 Aw) 就夾心巧克力當中最微妙的部分 - 巧克力甘 納許而言，這四大關鍵尤為重要，其中水活 性的測量又居首要。

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In this part, we did not wish to discuss thoroughly on this issue. However, as all professionals know it, conservation d e p e n d s o n fo u r fa cto rs , w h i c h a re common to all fillings : ．Hygiene ．Temperature ．pH ．Aw

In the case of ganache, one of the most subtle filling in chocolaterie, these points are of particular importance, particularly as regards the possibility of measuring the activity water or Aw.

水活性是什麼 ?

What is the Aw or the HRE ? 水活性，為產品保存期限的指標之一。

食物中所含的水可以為自由水或結合水。

水活性的測量讓我們能夠得知產品當中未和其他 元素結合的自由水量，微生物仰賴自由水才能存 活和繁殖，因此，產品的水活性越高，保存期限 就越短。

水活性的測量尺度介於 0 ( 不含任何自由水 ) 到 1 ( 純水，僅含自由水 )。 水活性的英文為 Water activity，簡稱 Aw，法 文 則 為 Humidité relative d’équilibre ， 簡 稱 HRE。

至關重要的一點，不要將水活性誤當成食譜中的 總含水量，兩者是不同的東西。 水活性的數值測量的不是食譜中的水含量，而是 食譜中的材料對水的控制力。

舉例來說，兩種水含量百分比相同的食物，在測 量水活性時得到的數值卻不同，因此需以不同方 式進行保存。

The latter, the activity of water, gives us an indication of the durability of the products.

The water contained in the food can be free or bound.

The measurement of activity of water allows to know the presence of free water in a product, that is water which is not bound to other components. Free water is what micro-organisms need in order to live and to reproduce. The higher this value in a product is, the more limited its preservation will be.

This value is measured on a scale ranging from 0 (product without free water) to 1 (pure water, composed only of free water).

The initials Aw correspond to Activity of water, and in French HRE (Humidité relative d’équilibre).

It is important not to confuse Aw with the total water in the recipe.

T he val ue o f Aw d o e s n ot m easure th e percentage of water in the recipe, but the control that the ingredients of the recipe have over it.

Two foods with the same percentage of water may have different measurements of Aw, and therefore, have to be conserved differently.

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水活性是什麼 ?

What is the Aw or the HRE ? 以下列舉常見的水活性 Aw 數值範例 : ．純水 : ．鮮奶油和慕斯 : ．甘納許 : ．瑪德蓮和蛋糕 : ．杏仁膏 : ．固體焦糖 : ．巧克力 :

1 0.90 以上 ( 平均值 ) 0.70 – 0.90 ( 平均值 ) 0.70 – 0.80( 平均值 ) 0.70( 平均值 ) 0.40( 平均值 ) 0.30( 平均值 )

直到近期水活性的概念漸漸被重視，因為可以藉由水 活性的測量來控制和確保產品被妥善地保存，從產品 出產的當天一直到保存期限最後一天，品質都是有保

證的。水活性的測量有效防止微生物的繁殖，控制產

品的顏色、口味，以及預期隨著時間影響產生質地的 變質。

微生物可於以下水活性開始繁殖 : ．酵母 : ．黴菌 : ．細菌 :

0.65 - 0.70 Aw 0.75 - 0.80 Aw 0.85 Aw

當水活性 Aw 低於 0.85，細菌無法繁殖。總結，當水 活性 Aw 值越低，產品就能更好的被保存。

下列將各種糖依照其能降低內餡水活性的能力從高到 低排序 :

．山梨糖醇粉 ．純葡萄糖粉 ．蔗糖 ．轉化糖 ．葡萄糖漿

以上為採用 30% 水溶液進行實驗所獲得的結果，轉 化糖和葡萄糖漿本身所含水分省略不計。

Let's see some examples known by all: ．Aw of pure water:

1

．Aw of the ganaches:

0.70 to 0.90 (average)

．Aw of creams, mousses: ．Aw of madeleine, cakes: ．Aw of marzipan:

．Aw of a hard caramel: ．Aw of chocolate:

0.90 or more (average) 0.70 to 0.80 (average) 0.70 (average) 0.40 (average) 0.30 (average)

Until recently, this value was used only by the industry,

but in our sector every day it becomes more necessary

to control and ensure a correct conservation of the products to guarantee the quality of the first to the last

day of their shelf-life. Knowing the activity of water will

allow us to prevent the growth of microorganisms and

control the color, taste and degradation of the texture over time.

Microorganisms can appear starting from the following values: ．Yeast:

0.65 to 0.70 Aw

．Bacteria:

0.85 Aw

．Mold:

0.75 to 0.80 Aw

Below 0.85, bacteria cannot thrive. In summary, the lower the value of Aw, the better the conservation of a product.

Now we detail the different sugars from higher to lower depending on their capacity to reduce the Aw in the fillings: ．Crystallized Sorbitol ．Dextrose ．Sucrose

．Invert Sugar

．Glucose Syrup

This is the result of a test carried out with a 30%

solution with water. In the case of inverted sugar and glucose syrup, it has been obviated that they have a percentage of water.

16

水活性是什麼 ?

What is the Aw or the HRE ? 測量水活性的益處是顯而易見的。舉例來說 : 當製作 帶有兩層內餡的夾心巧克力時，兩內餡之間水活性的 平衡至關重要，最好的狀態為水活性數值完全相同， 若無法就追求越接近越佳，避免兩種內餡之間的水分 互相轉移。 透過水活性的數值能夠進而測量在一個複雜的甜點成 品當中，水分藉由蒸汽相 (vapor phase) 在不同層內 餡中轉移的傾向。 對產品本身進行水活性 Aw 的調整跟其所置放的環境 是直接相關的，因為產品本身和周圍空氣之間雙向 的溼氣轉移取決於水活性 Aw 和相對濕度 (Relative Humidity) 兩個因素。 水活性 Aw 對於保存期限的影響 : ．水活性 Aw 大於 0.90 : ．水活性 Aw 大於 0.85 : ．水活性 Aw 介於 0.85 – 0.80 : ．水活性 Aw 介於 0.80 – 0.75 : ．水活性 Aw 介於 0.70 – 0.65 : ．水活性 Aw 低於 0.60: 此理論設定溫度為 20ºC。

10 – 15 天 最長達 3 週 45 – 60 天 60 – 80 天 6 – 9 個月 微生物穩定

The great interest in measuring Aw is easily seen, for example, in the case of a two-layer bonbon. It is essential to balance, at the same value or as close as possible, the two components to prevent water transfer between the two fillings.

The Aw measures the tendency to transfer water through the vapor phase between the different layers of a complex product.

That is why the fact of adjusting the Aw of a product is directly related to the environment in which it will be exposed. The humidity transmission of the product with ambient air and ambient air with the product depends on the difference between the Aw and the Relative Humidity.

Shelf-life according to the AW: ．Aw greater than 0.90:

10 to 15 days

．Aw between 0.85 and 0.80:

45 to 60 days

．Aw greater than 0.85:

．Aw between 0.80 and 0.75: ．Aw between 0.70 and 0.65: ．Aw less than 0.60:

Note: Theoretical values at 20ºC.

max 3 weeks

60 to 80 days

6 to 9 months

Microbiologically stable

17

食譜的研發 Creation of a Recipe 為避免進行無謂的嘗試，在食譜研發時需要 明確設定期望的最終產品。 先就食譜中所運用到的所有食材好好思考， 透過知識和經驗， 探究不同參數，方能研發 出符合以下設定的食譜 : ．質地 ．味道 ．特性 ．保存 先從高技術性，具有高可可含量的黑巧克力 甘納許來進行探討，選用的巧克力為祕魯阿 多索莊園調溫巧克力 65%。 目標為獲得口感細緻入口即化的甘納許，風 味上呈現巧克力本身風味，而非額外的風味 元素，且需展現理想的黏稠度，操作上可抹 於框模內和使用巧克力切割機進行切割，最 後保存上需符合巧克力專賣店的販售需求。 在下頁的食譜表中，可見範例 1 為專為餐廳 需求所設計的甘納許 nº1 和其他後續演變的 食譜。

As we all know, to avoid countless attempts, it's time to create the recipe that we need clearly determine the desired end product.

Thinking about it the ingredients that make

up the recipe and supporting us about our knowledge and experience, we need to study the different parameters that will make it possible to obtain a recipe given : ．The texture ．The taste

．The format

．The preservation We focus on a dark chocolate ganache with

a high cocoa content, since it is the one that involves more technical difficulty. We use the Alto El Sol dark chocolate couverture 65% cocoa.

The goal is to obtain a tender and melting

texture in the mouth. The flavor must be that of the chocolate without the addition of elements of aroma. The ganache will present

an ideal viscosity to spread it in frames and cut it with a guitar slicer. And it must offer a

correct conservation for its commercialization in a chocolate shop.

In the table of recipes (next page) we can

see the first example with ganache nº1 and its subsequent evolution.

18

甘納許 nº1 Ganache nº1

甘納許 nº2 Ganache nº2

甘納許 nº3 Ganache nº3

甘納許 nº4 Ganache nº4

乾物質 Dry matter 74.2%

乾物質 Dry matter 80.7%

乾物質 Dry matter 81.6%

乾物質 Dry matter 82.6%

水活性 Water activity 0.90

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水活性 Water activity 0.80

水活性 Water activity 0.76

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

函數值 Functional values

材料 Ingredients

餐廳用 Restaurant

水 Water 25.8%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 15 days

水 Water 19.3%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

水 Water 18.4%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 60 days

水 Water 17.4%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 80 days

19

甘納許 nº1 分析出下述結果 : 質地 20% 的可可脂含量使製作出的甘納許適合進 行分切，17.20% 的無水脂肪 ( 熔點較低 ) 使 甘納許入口即化和擁有滑順口感。 風味 食譜中大量的總水分造就新鮮風味，高比例 的液態鮮奶油帶出奶香，14.8% 可可固形物 賦予強烈可可香氣和低甜度。 是一款帶有新 鮮風味，適合餐廳使用的新鮮甘納的極佳範 例。 特性 很好的黏稠性，適合用於框模操作。 保存 但高達 0.90 的水活性 Aw 使巧克力甘納許容 易快速變質，幾天後至多兩週的時間，風味 和外觀都會變質，無法進行販售。

Ganache n° 1 analyse lead us to several remarks: Texture

As we see, thanks to 20% of cocoa butter, the texture is ideal to be cut and also thanks to the 17.20% of anhydrous fat (with a lower

melting point) it melts very well in the mouth and has excellent smoothness.

Flavor The flavor will be fresh due to the large amount of total water in the recipe, with clear milk notes due to the high percentage of liquid cream, and strong cocoa notes due to 14.80% cocoa solids with low sweetness.

This is an example of a fresh ganache, of exceptional flavor, ideal for a restaurant.

Format

Good viscosity for use in frames.

Preservation

But we know that with an Aw of 0.90 will

deteriorate very quickly, and in a few days, two weeks at the most, it will experience a decline in taste and appearance that discards it to be marketed or sold in a chocolate shop.

20

以甘納許 n° 1 的美好風味和質地為基礎進行 調整，在甘納許 n° 2、3、4 配方當中可見 各材料的比例在調整下成更穩定的甘納許配 方。 目 標 在 降 低 水 活 性 Aw， 但 為 保 有 甘 納 許 n° 1 的風味，可見食譜中的水分是逐步進行 減少的。但不可避免的感官體驗上會發覺質 地較乾且較不新鮮，且隨著時間，甘納許依 舊會乾掉和結晶。 基 於 以 上 原 因， 加 入 還 原 糖 (Reducing sugar) 為必要的作法，還原糖具有吸溼的 特性，舉例來說轉化糖可維持成品的柔軟、 不同的葡萄糖漿可避免結晶的產生、純葡萄 糖粉和山梨糖醇粉則能夠很好的降低水活性 Aw。 經過此測驗可見甘納許 n° 4，同樣使用高品 質原料，未進行大變動，但水活性卻成功降 低，理論上相當於擁有 80 天的保存期限。 此甘納許配方成功製作出穩定的甘納許，依 舊保有接近甘納許 n° 1 的質地、風味和黏 性。 為持續進行甘納許測試，將以甘納許 n° 2 作 為參考，並稱它為 Relais Desserts 法國甜 點協會甘納許配方。

Taking this reference ganache for its good

flavor and texture, in the recipes of ganaches 2, 3 and 4 we see how we have been leveling

the quantities of some ingredients to better stability.

As the goal is to reduce the Aw, allowing us to keep the flavor of the ganache nº1, we have

gradually lowered the percentage of water in this recipe. But the sensation will be of a drier, less fresh product and also, with time, the ganache can dry out and crystallize.

For this reason, the incorporation of reducing

sugars is essential, sugars with hygroscopic capacity -such as invert sugar- to maintain

the soft product, as well as different glucose

syrups to avoid crystallization, or dextrose or sorbitol because of its great capacity to reduce Aw.

After this exercise we can see in ganache n ° 4 that with the use of top-quality products and without making drastic changes, the value

of water activity has been reduced, which is

equivalent to about 80 days of theoretical preservation. Our ganache has improved in

its stability while maintaining a texture, flavor

and viscosity similar to that of the initial recipe.

To continue with the exercise in the rest of the

article, we will take the recipe for the ganache

2 as a reference, which we will call the Relais Desserts ganache.

21

前置作業 Preparation 甘納許的製作有諸多專業方法，最終所追求的那份最佳配方為適用於所有各式甜點應用和販 售。但不可否認的是，甘納許的議題帶有許多爭議。可分為兩大製作方式 - 熱前置作業和冷 前置作業。 熱前置作業 Hot preparation

冷前置作業 Cold preparation

此作法需加熱配方中的水相材料，需加熱至沸騰或至特定 溫度後，倒在巧克力和脂肪上進行乳化。

此作法需將水相材料在 30° C 和事先融化的調溫巧克力和 脂肪進行乳化，巧克力預結晶與否都可。

優點 • 傳統作法。 • 最廣為人知且接受度最高。

優點 • 可獲得一致的水活性 Aw，所以如果使用好的配方， 能確保未來成品品質相同。 • 當操作溫度皆低於 40ºC，生長微細菌的風險較低。 • 製作甘納許的操作時間被縮短，可更有效率地生產。

缺點 • 若使用巧克力磚，需先將巧克力切碎方能使用。 • 液體加熱的部分，無法獲得相同的水活性 Aw，每批 產品皆會不同。經過證實當加熱液體時，會依據沸騰 的時間損失 1-3% 的水分。 • 最終溫度可能落在適合微生物生長的危險區。

缺點 • 較不被人所熟知，但漸漸越多人採用。 • 遵照溫度進行操作變得至關重要，方能避免失誤和確 保獲得同樣的質地。

There are as many ways to make a ganache as there are professionals. In the end, the best method is the one that works best for everyone. But it is true that in an issue like this, which generates so much controversy, there are two major ways to proceed – hot and cold preparation.

Hot preparation

This method consists of applying a thermal treatment to the aqueous part of the recipe, either boiling or heating to a certain temperature, to later pour and emulsify on the chocolate and the fats.

Advantages • It can be said that this method is the traditional one.

• The best known and the most accepted in the workshops.

Drawbacks • If we use chocolate in tablets, we must chop it up before making the truffle.

•

•

22

In the case of boiling the liquids, we will never obtain the same Aw, there will be variations between the different productions. We have verified that when boiling the liquids, we lose between 1 and 3% of water according to the boiling time.

Thus, the final temperature can be in an area of risk of possible development of microorganisms.

Cold preparation

This method consists of emulsifying the aqueous part at 30 ° C with the couverture and the fat, previously melted, precrystallized or not.

Advantages • The Aw will always be consistent, so if the product is well formulated, it will be regular. In addition, when working always below 40ºC, the risk of micro-bacterial development is lower.

• And, finally, the time between the end of the emulsion and the formation of the ganache is shortened, therefore making it a faster system.

Drawbacks • It is true that it is a lesser known method, but it is being used more and more.

• It is important to follow the temperature guidelines during the process, in order to avoid mistakes and to obtain a regular texture.

下列為帶有變異數的範例 : 1

2

熱操作

液體 + 糖

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

100ºC

15 - 20ºC

6 - 26ºC

液體 + 糖

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

80ºC 直到 61 - 63 ºC

15 - 20ºC

6 - 26ºC

最終溫度 40 - 60 ºC

最終溫度 30 - 33 ºC

1

2

冷操作

液體 + 糖

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

30ºC

45 - 50ºC

6 - 40ºC

液體 + 糖

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

30ºC

32 - 33ºC

6 - 26ºC

最終溫度 40 ºC

最終溫度 30 - 33 ºC

我們證實以上述兩種操作方式製作出的成品功能性上相同。但如果選擇使用熱操作，請事先在加熱液體前進行 秤重，並在加熱完後，重新加回蒸發的液體重量，確保取得和冷操作相同的成品。 關於甘納許質地的部分，影響最終成品的關鍵 – 甘納許的調溫、結晶與否，後續會進行相關探討。

Below some examples with variances: 1

Hot system Liquids

Couverture

Sugars

Cocoa butter

100ºC

15 - 20ºC

Liquids

Couverture

Sugars

Cocoa butter

+

+

80ºC

Refresh until

+

+

15 - 20ºC

Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

Final temperature

Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

1

Cold system Liquids

Couverture

Sugars

Cocoa butter

30ºC

45 - 50ºC

Final

Liquids

Couverture

30 - 33 ºC

Sugars

Cocoa butter

30ºC

32 - 33ºC

40 - 60 ºC

6 - 26ºC

temperature

6 - 26ºC

+

+

+

+

Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

Final

Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

Final

temperature

40 ºC

6 - 40ºC

temperature

30 - 33 ºC

6 - 26ºC

61 - 63 ºC

* We confirm that with both systems the same results in functionality and conservation are obtained. If you opt for the hot system by boiling the liquid part, you can use the same formula, but before boiling you have to scale the liquid and add, once boiled, the same amount of water that has evaporated. This guarantees the same result as in the cold system.

Regarding the texture, there is an aspect that will influence the final result in a very important way, the tempering or the crystallization or non-crystallization of the ganache, as we will see later.

23

乳化 Emulsion 想達到好的乳化，需納入考量的三個因素 : ．溫度 ．摩擦和剪力效應 ．時間 與使用液態油製作的美乃滋不同，巧克力甘 納許的製作需把固體的油脂轉化為液體， 因此需確保脂肪和水相材料皆在最理想的狀 態。 下一步，會進行一段時間的摩擦。若機器可 進行變速，先以高速操作，當乳化完成後， 降低速度避免空氣的混入、溫度的升高和黏 性的增加。 有多種不同的混合方式，從打蛋器、桌上型 攪拌機、小型手持均質機、變速切拌機 ( 具 真空功能與否皆可 )。

To achieve a good emulsion, we must consider three factors:

．Temperature ．Friction or shear effect ．Time

Unlike mayonnaise, which is prepared with liquid oil, in the ganache there are solid fats that we must turn into liquids so that the fataqueous part of the emulsion is optimal.

Next we will apply friction during a certain

amount of time. If a machine with variable speed drive is available, initially it will start

at high speed and, once the emulsion is obtained, the speed will be reduced to avoid incorporating air, increasing the temperature

of the mixture due to friction and in some cases increasing the viscosity of the ganache.

There are different options for mixing, from a

hand whisk, a stand mixer, a small handheld

blender or a variable speed cutter with the option or not to perform vacuum.

24

是否要將甘納許結晶 To crystallize or not to crystallize the ganache 巧克力中的可可脂為同素異形體脂肪，意味著當它結晶時會形成不 同型態和不同熔點的脂肪結晶。 為了獲得結構穩定、品質一致且質地光亮的產品，必須要取得落於 高溫區間形成的結晶。這也是會將巧克力事先預結晶後，再用於進 行夾心巧克力的披覆、灌模、或製作片狀巧克力的原因。 關於結晶，不論是採用熱操作或冷操作，在未擠出使用的狀態下， 都可分為三大類 :

熱操作 1

100ºC 2

1. 保留可可脂結晶的甘納許 2. 乳化後產生新可可脂結晶的甘納許 3. 無可可脂結晶的甘納許

* 在未擠出使用的狀態下 當甘納許一被擠出使用後，不論採用何種方式，請記得可可脂的結 晶屬於放熱反應，也就是說結晶時會釋放出熱。

fat crystals with different melting points.

液體 + 糖 80ºC 直到 61 - 63 ºC

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

15 - 20ºC

6 - 26ºC

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

15 - 20ºC

6 - 26ºC

最終溫度 40 - 55 ºC

最終溫度 30 - 33 ºC

冷操作 1

The cocoa butter present in chocolate is a polymorphic fat, meaning

that when it crystallizes (solidifies) it does so in different forms or

液體 + 糖

液體 + 糖 30ºC

2

To obtain a stable product with a solid, uniform and bright texture, we must obtain crystals of the highest temperature range. That is

液體 + 糖 30ºC

why we pre-crystallize the chocolates that are going to be used for

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

45 - 50ºC

6 - 40ºC

調溫巧克力 + 可可脂

新鮮奶油 或 無水奶油

32 - 33ºC

6 - 26ºC

最終溫度 35 - 40 ºC

最終溫度 30 - 33 ºC

the coating and molding of bonbons, bars, etc.

On crystallization, and regardless of whether the process is cold or hot, we can list three categories. Always before being piped: 1.Ganache made with preserved cocoa butter crystals.

Hot system 1

2.Ganache made by creating cocoa butter crystals once emulsified.

*Always before piped

know that the crystallization of the cocoa butter is an exothermic

不穩定 Instables forms 穩定 Stables forms

I. II. III. IV. V. VI.

(γ) (α) (β’) (β’) (β) (β)

15 - 20ºC Couverture

Sugars

Cocoa butter

Refresh until

+

15 - 20ºC

Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

Final temperature

40 - 55 ºC

6 - 26ºC Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

Final

temperature

30 - 33 ºC

6 - 26ºC

61 - 63 ºC

Cold system 1

熔點 Melting temperatures 17ºC 23ºC 25ºC 27ºC 33ºC 36ºC

+

Liquids

80ºC

reaction, that is, it releases heat when it crystallizes.

型態 Forms

Cocoa butter

+

+

Once the ganaches are piped, whatever the procedure, we must

These are the main crystalline forms andtheir melting temperature range:

Couverture

Sugars

100ºC

3.Ganache made without cocoa butter crystals.

下表為主要的結晶型態和其熔點 :

Liquids

2

Liquids

Couverture

Sugars

Cocoa butter

30ºC

45 - 50ºC

+

+

Liquids

Couverture

Sugars

Cocoa butter

30ºC

32 - 33ºC

+

+

Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

Final

temperature

40 - 55 ºC

6 - 40ºC Fresh butter or Anhydrous butter

Final

temperature

30 - 33 ºC

6 - 26ºC

25

正確的結晶會包含吸收由外部的冷所釋出的熱能，所

For a correct crystallization it is necessary to “absorb” the

氣流動。若為未經過預結晶的甘納許，請放入冷藏使

reason we recommend definitively crystallizing the ganaches in

以建議在 16ºC 的空間進行甘納許的結晶，最好有空 其快速結晶凝固，一但結晶後，保存於 16ºC 的環境 中。

來觀察擠出使用後，經過結晶和未結晶的甘納許兩者

a cool space at about 16ºC if possible with air current or in the case of the ganaches that they have not been pre-crystallized, directly block or solidify quickly in the refrigerator (conveniently protected) and, once solidified, reserve in a space at 16ºC.

的差異 :

Let's see the differences between crystallized and non-

兩者都已經以保鮮膜包覆，未結晶的甘納許先放於

Both are covered with plastic wrap. The non-crystallized ones

4ºC 冷藏直到凝固後，移到 16/18ºC 環境和結晶甘納 許一同保存 12/24 小時直到完成最終的結晶。

不論是結晶或未結晶的甘納許都帶有結實的質地，非

常容易進行操作。結晶的甘納許在味蕾體驗上較硬， 融化速度還算快。未結晶的甘納許相較之下更為柔 軟，融化速度更加快速。

就風味進行比較，結晶的甘納許較接近巧克力的原 味，因為未結晶的甘納許可可脂的融化速度較快導致 嚐起來較像濕的可可且帶有些微的油膩感，而且也較 不穩定。

兩種甘納許的樣品皆進行為期五週的保存測試，存放 於 16ºC 的溫度，實驗結果顯示，最不穩定的第一型

(γ) 結晶亦被成功保存下來。繼續每週進行試吃，在

同樣的保存狀態下，兩者的質地都未改變。就保存和 水活性而言，兩者在使用相同的食譜下，獲得相同的 結果。

結論可得，甘納許是否經過結晶，會影響到口感體 驗，但在妥善保存的前提下並不影響其他參數。

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heat released by the contribution of external cold, and for this

crystallized ganaches, once piped:

are blocked in a refrigerator at 4ºC until solidification and both

are preserved at 16/18ºC until their definitive crystallization for about 12/24 hours.

Crystallized and not crystallized ganaches have a firm texture and are easy to handle. The first ones are somewhat hard on

the palate and their melting is fast. The second ones are more tender and their melting in the mouth is faster.

We observe in the non-crystallized ganache a slight change of flavor with respect to the crystallized ganache, it is not as close to the taste of chocolate. It is a light taste of wet cocoa and a

slight fat/oily sensation due to the rapid melting of the cocoa butter present, as it is not as stable due to the tempering.

The different samples taken have been reserved for 5 weeks in a space at 16ºC conveniently protected. At this temperature, even

the least stable crystals of the form I ( γ ) have been preserved.

We have done weekly tastings, and in both cases this texture lasts over time in the same storage conditions. We have not

observed a change or evolution in the texture. Regarding the conservation or value of Aw, in both cases, in the same recipe, we have obtained the same results.

We can say that crystallizing or not crystallizing a ganache

translates into a different texture in the mouth, but does not affect other parameters, as long as the product is kept in good condition.

科學在其中的角色？ But what can science contribute to this discussion? 能否得知甘納許當中存在何種結晶，並經由科學的方 式證實質地上的差異？

Can we know what kind of crystals we have in our ganaches, and scientifically verify that there are differences regarding the texture?

為瞭解上述問題，我們與巴塞隆納大學的礦物學系合 作，對於結晶和未結晶的甘納許進行以下測驗。

To clarify this, in collaboration with the Department of Mineralogy of the University of Barcelona, we have done the following tests from the same ganache, crystallized or not.

藉 由 低 溫 掃 描 式 電 子 顯 微 鏡 (Cryo Scanning Electron Microscope, 簡稱 Cryo SEM) 來獲取兩種甘 納許的表層結構圖像。

Scanning electron microscopy under CRIO conditions (CryoScanning Microscopy, Cryo SEM) to obtain an image of the structure of the two ganaches. This test has helped us to obtain an image of the surface structure of the ganache.

從兩張圖像中可見在像似的結構下存在些微的差異 :

1. 帶有可可脂結晶的甘納許在未被擠出使用的狀態 下，質地上較為一致，因為固體可可脂結晶的存在使 甘納許中其他脂肪的結晶跟著加速，在結構排列上也 較井然有序呈現一致型。

In the two images we can see similar structures but with a few differences: 1. Ganache with cocoa butter crystals before being piped. The texture is much more consistent. The presence of solid cocoa butter crystals makes the crystallization of the rest of the fat faster and more orderly resulting in greater uniformity.

2. 反觀未帶有結晶可可脂的甘納許在未被擠出使用的 狀態下，質地上較為不規則，其他固體結晶的存在使 得結晶速度較慢且在結構上並未規則排列，最終呈現 較不一致的結構。

2. Ganache without cocoa butter crystals before being piped.

The texture is clearly more irregular. The absence of solid crystals in the mass makes the crystallization slower and the formation of the crystals is anarchic, creating irregular groupings and generating a much less uniform structure.

識別同素異形體的結構 : 藉由 x 光繞射獲取兩種甘納 許中存在的結晶資訊。藉由繞射圖可證實，兩種甘納 許在不同測試上獲得的結果基本上相同。將會於下頁 探討兩種甘納許中的第五型和四型結晶，在經過一週 的保存後進行觀察的結果。

Identification of polymorphic forms: X-ray diffraction to obtain information on the type of crystals present in the two ganaches.

In this test we have been able to verify that the diffractograms are practically identical in the different tests. The presence of crystals with form V and form IV are observed in the two types of ganaches a week after their preparation.

強度 Intensity (counts)

1

2

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同樣的甘納許樣品在經過五週的保存後，第五型結晶 的量呈現增加。

結論可得，在妥善的保存下，經過一段時間，原本的 第四型結晶會轉變成第五型結晶，因此甘納許中的第 五型結晶會增加。

在 溫 度 記 錄 圖 中 : 示 差 掃 描 熱 析 法（Differential scanning calorimetry，簡稱 DSC）獲得兩種甘納許 的融化相關資訊。 關於甘納許的融化，觀察到以下差異 :

1. 帶有可可脂結晶的甘納許在未被擠出使用的狀態 下，在接近 23.73° C 開始融化，整體融化時間更短， 高溫融峰較低為 27.80° C。 2. 反觀未帶有結晶可可脂的甘納許在未被擠出使用的 狀態下，在接近 24.02° C 才開始融化，整體融化時 間更長，高溫融峰較高為 28.97° C 。 The same samples of ganache after 5 weeks after their preparation have given us a greater presence of form V crystals.

In conclusion we could interpret that, over time and with correct storage conditions, the amount of form V crystals increases due to a polymorphic transition from form IV to form V. Thermal profile or thermogram: differential scanning calorimetry (Differential scanning Calorimetry, DSC) to obtain results regarding the melting of the two types of ganaches.

Regarding the melting, we have observed the following differences: 1. Ganache with cocoa butter crystals before being piped. The melting starts at a temperature similar to 23.73°C, the melting time is shorter and also the melting peak is slightly lower, 27.80°C. 2. Ganache without cocoa butter crystals before being piped. The melting begins at a temperature similar to 24.02° C, but the melting time is longer and the melting peak has a higher temperature, 28.97° C.

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總結，就由多種測驗方式比較出兩種甘納許的差異 :

關於結晶，並未顯示出大差異，因為我們無法取的結 晶組成的相關資訊。 反觀，融化測試中可見，未帶有結晶可可脂的甘納許 在未被擠出使用的狀態下，因為脂肪結晶型成較不規 則，導致整體融化耗時較長。不同的脂肪結晶融點不 同，高融點和低融點的結晶同時存在。說明了在品嚐 甘納許的時候，會感受到柔軟綿密的感覺，因為低融 點的結晶在一開始即融化，高融點的結晶接著融化延 續品嚐體驗。 帶有結晶可可脂的甘納許在未被擠出使用的狀態下， 則因為其較規律一致的結晶構造，讓品嚐時不若前者 柔軟綿密，當甘納許開始於嘴中融化時，速度更快更 新鮮，不會太過綿密，嚐起來口感更似夾心巧克力。

On the contrary, in the case of the ganache with cocoa butter crystals before being piped, the tasting is less soft or tender, because the cr ystallization of these cr ystals, worth the repetitiveness, has been more orderly. When the melting begins in the mouth, the tasting is quicker and fresher, with less creaminess and a taste experience more similar to that of a bonbon.

T h e re fo re , w e ca n a f f i r m t h at t h e fa ct o f crystallizing or not crystallizing a ganache is a decision that will have an effect on the texture in the mouth during the tasting, but that will not impact the other parameters, as long as the product is stored in good conditions.

透過以上實驗可得結論，甘納許是否進行結晶，會影 響到質地，品嚐時口感上可以察覺出差異， 但在妥 善保存的前提下並不影響其他參數。 In conclusion, we could say that the combination of the different tests indicates a difference in the two types of ganache. Regarding the type of crystals, we do not see a big difference because we do not have information about the composition of those crystals.

However, the melting tests indicate that, in the case of the ganache without cocoa butter crystals before being piped, the melting is longer because the fat has crystallized irregularly. The different fat crystals melt at different temperatures, both those with low melting points and those with higher melting points. This explains why in the tasting we have a slightly more tender and creamy texture, because the crystals of low melting point melt just at the beginning of the tasting.

In addition, the tasting is prolonged because the crystals with a higher melting point, which crystallize separately from the rest, melt later.

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延伸想法 The idea 回歸到 Relais Desserts 法國甜點協會甘納許配方，提出下列相關問題 : 可否使用此食譜進行其他甘納許食譜的開發 ? 如果在配方中加入水使風味更為中性，是否可更好的表現出每款巧克力的獨特可可風味 ? 如果想以茶、果汁來取代水 ? 如果調整為全素配方 ? 如果想將配方調整為讓成品更具黏性，可直接使用巧克力澆注機裝填 ? 如果想延長保存期限 ? 如果…? 上述的所有假設情況皆需俱備好的乳化 !

Returning to the Ganache Relais Desserts, we raised some questions.

Could we start with this recipe to create others?

What if we made a ganache with water to get a more neutral flavor and better realize the cocoa notes of the different chocolates?

What if we substituted that water for tea, fruit juices, etc.?

What if we turned our recipe into a vegan ganache?

What if we made it more viscous to pipe it in a One Shot machine?

What if we lengthen its preservation?

What if…?

In all of these cases we need a good emulsion!

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乳蛋白，關鍵原料 Milk protein, key ingredient to create with freedom 液態動物性鮮奶油當中存在的乳蛋白俱有強大的乳化 能力。液態動物性鮮奶油當中含有 2-3% 的乳蛋白， 經典的巧克力甘納許食譜中液態動物性鮮奶油會佔 25% 左右，可得乳蛋白佔比會落在 0.8% 左右。

emulsifying power. The liquid cream contains 2 to 3% of milk proteins, this means that in a classic chocolate ganache recipe in which we have around 25% liquid cream, there will be a total of approximately 0.8% of milk proteins.

理論上來說，應該可以將配方中的鮮奶油換成水，可 選擇再額外加入補回所失去的蛋白質量，不加也行。

Naturally, it is possible to make chocolate ganache by replacing the

但經過多種測試證實，不論是為了改善巧克力甘納許 的乳化效果，或僅是將配方中的鮮奶油換成浸漬液 (Infusions)、果泥、果汁或其他液體，最好還是採用 天然的乳化劑。

But after multiple tests, we can say that, in order to improve the

我們推薦使用「乳清蛋白」，來自牛奶的天然蛋白質， 易溶於水，能夠在不改變其他參數的情況下，有效穩 定乳化作用。用量並無特殊限制，我們的建議用量為 食譜總量的 0.2-0.8%。 額外添加蛋白質的作法，讓鮮奶油不再是甘納許配方 的必要原料，給予甘納許更多的可能性。 優點 改善乳化的品質和穩定性。當使用具有高含量可可固 形物或脂肪的巧克力甘納許配方，成品會極具黏性， 乳蛋白可降低黏性和緩和乳化。 乳蛋白降低原本於低溫環境下進行操作容易破壞乳化 的風險，使裝填甘納許作業變得更為容易。 乳蛋白可平衡甘納許的感官體驗，因為它可防止或至 少延緩巧克力當中的非脂可可固形物浸泡在水中，進 而造成一些混合物的產生，帶給味覺不好的感受。 乳蛋白使我們能夠在不調整配方的情況下，獲得更好 的乳化效果和穩定甘納許，舉例來說 : 在製作黑巧克 力甘納許時，不需要加入調溫牛奶巧克力。 蛋白質需加入配方中的液態含水材料中，並使用手持 均質機混合乳化，並確保操作溫度低於 60ºC 以有效 防止蛋白質因為加熱而變性，進而失去乳化能力。

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The milk proteins naturally present in liquid cream have a great

cream of the recipe with water. In that case, you have to add that protein that is lost in the substitution, or not.

chocolate emulsions or simply by replacing the cream of a recipe with

infusions, fruit purées, juices or other liquids, it is best to resort to a natural emulsifying agent.

We opted for lactalbumin, ‘noble’ protein from milk, very soluble in water, which will contribute significantly to stabilize an emulsion without

altering other parameters. Its dosage is free, but we recommend between 0.2 and 0.8% of the total of the recipe.

This addition of extra protein opens a door to the possible elimination of cream as an ingredient in a ganache.

Advantages

It improves the quality and stability of the emulsion. In ganache with a

high content of cocoa solids or fat, and therefore very viscous ganache. It reduces the viscosity and ‘relaxes’ the emulsion.

It allows working at lower temperatures with less risk of breaking the emulsion, which is ideal when it comes to dosing.

It helps to balance the organoleptic profile, because it avoids or at

least delays that the non-fat cocoa solids contained in the chocolate are soaked in water, thus causing a kind of infusion of components

unpleasant to taste. Therefore, we can say that the milk protein also positively influences the taste.

It helps to balance the organoleptic profile, because it avoids or at

least delays that the non-fat cocoa solids contained in the chocolate are soaked in water, thus causing a kind of infusion of components unpleasant to taste. Therefore, we can say that the milk protein also positively influences the taste.

It allows to obtain better emulsified and more stable ganache without

modifying the recipe, for example without having to add a part of milk couverture to the dark ganache.

* The protein should be added to the watery part of the recipe and mixed with a handheld blender, always below 60ºC to prevent the protein from cooking and denaturing as it would lose its emulsifying power.

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法國甜點協會甘納許配方 Relais Desserts, ganache

水甘納許 Water ganache

素甘納許 Vegan ganache

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

函數值 Functional values

材料 Ingredients

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

法國甜點協會甘納許配方 Relais Desserts, ganache

乾物質 Dry matter 80.7%

乾物質 Dry matter 80.3%

乾物質 Dry matter 80.7%

乾物質 Dry matter 80.3%

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水 Water 19.3%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

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水 Water 19.7%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

水 Water 19.3%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

水 Water 19.7%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

法國甜點協會甘納許配方 Relais Desserts, ganache

耐久放的甘納許 Long lasting ganache

一次性甘納許 One shot ganache

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

函數值 Functional values

材料 Ingredients

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

法國甜點協會甘納許配方 Relais Desserts, ganache

乾物質 Dry matter 80.7%

乾物質 Dry matter 82.5%

乾物質 Dry matter 80.7%

乾物質 Dry matter 78.6%

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水活性 Water activity 0.68

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水 Water 19.3%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

水 Water 17.5%

保存期限 ( 月 ) Shelf Life 6 months

水 Water 19.3%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

水 Water 21.4%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

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法國甜點協會甘納許配方 Relais Desserts, ganache

堅果醬甘納許 Praliné ganache

巧克力工作坊用甘納許 Chocolatier

如果能夠超越水的界線 ?

堅果醬甘納許，充滿無限可能的新分類… 製作出來的成品更為新鮮、更少脂肪、少了 脂肪漂白、更低成本，改善質地、風味和數 不盡的優點。

材料 Ingredients

But what if we stop thinking about water ?

函數值 Functional values

Praliné ganache, a new category with several possibilities…

A new product more fresh, less fat, without fat bleaching and less expensive, which improve the texture, the flavor and a lot of others advantages.

重新認識巧克力甘納許 A new look at chocolate ganache X Relais Desserts 法國甜點協會 撰寫

By Ramon Morató

協作作者 And with special collaboration of Anne Cazor (Scinnov) 乾物質 Dry matter 80.7%

乾物質 Dry matter 80%

感謝巴塞隆納大學對於以電子顯微鏡和 X 光繞射進行巧克力晶體學

水活性 Water activity 0.83

水活性 Water activity 0.83

Many thanks to the University of Barcelona (crystallography

水 Water 19.3%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

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水 Water 20%

保存期限 ( 天 ) Shelf Life 45 days

實驗的幫助。

section) for images electron microscopy and the tests of X-ray diffraction.

區家裕 Oliver AU

聯馥食品資深烘焙技師

區家裕師傅自從在澳洲學成之後，先後在香港以及台灣的知名飯店烘焙廚房裡工作，並於歐 洲進口烘焙食材公司擔任高階烘焙技師，在烘焙領域中已累積三十餘年的豐厚經歷。區師傅 擅長於透過各式水果果泥、巧克力、乳製品、風味香料等食材間的結合、激盪，併發出味蕾 的新體驗 ! 更令人激賞的是他對於各式烘焙原料，如增稠劑、凝膠體、分子烘焙創意，以及 各式醣類、食品製造元素、冰淇淋科學等高階理論及技術性應用的專研，讓他得以提供所有 烘焙客戶在食譜研發、生產過程、及烘焙成品保存上最佳的解決方案，可說是台灣烘焙界的 奇異博士 !

Oliver AU

Gourmet’s Partner Senior Pastry Technician

After working in several well-known hotels in Hong Kong and Taiwan. He served as a pastry technician in an import company specialized in European baking ingredients.

With more than 30 years of experience in the pastry field, Oliver is an expert at combining various types of fruit purees, chocolates, and dairy products, and turn them into desserts with extraordinary flavors. He is also the master of molecular gastronomy dessert, gelato theory…. The recipes he developed provide the best solution to improve production, food preservation, and flavor. He is the answer to client’s pastry problems.

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巧克力調溫解析

Chocolate Tempering

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巧克力的融化（完美的去晶化）

請遵照以下巧克力融化的相關要點，以成功獲得液態巧克力進行後續相關應用。切記勿使用 高溫加熱或直接於鍋中未隔水直接加熱，以上兩種作法皆會使巧克力當中的些許元素被焦化 卻未能被輕易發覺。請選用溫和的方式來融化巧克力，以使用正確的溫度慢慢地將可可脂去 晶化為目標，Cacao Barry 的商品包裝上皆貼心的呈現適合每款巧克力的調溫曲線，讓您可 以輕鬆參照調溫出完美的巧克力。 調溫完成的巧克力，若表面呈現霧霧的未帶有光澤且很快速即凝固，皆為未完全地將巧克力 去晶化的象徵。巧克力的調溫結晶曲線，會包含三個關鍵溫度：融化、調溫和升溫。每種巧 克力因為所含的可可脂比例不同、是否含乳脂、是否含卵磷脂等因素而影響巧克力調溫中的 三個關鍵溫度，以上所述皆指可可脂的融化，巧克力中的其他元素仍維持固態。

Melting Chocolate (Aim for perfect de-crystallization)

Respect the certain constraints of melting chocolate in order to obtain ready-to-use liquid chocolate. Do not maintain the chocolate under high heat or similar condition. Don’t ever melt the chocolate directly on stove. It will lead to burning of some elements inside the chocolate that you may never know. Always select the available gentle way. Our target is to use the right temperature to melt the chocolate gradually.

It is better to slowly de-crystallized the cocoa butter. Always check the melting factor temperature from the crystallization curve printed on the package of the processing chocolate.

If the final outcome of tempered chocolate is dull rather than shiny and the chocolate become thickened quite fast. It means the chocolate has not been completely de-crystallized. The crystallization curve had been printed on each chocolate package, showing the three related crucial temperature factors, which are the melting factor, tempering factor and raising factor. It differs because of the different content of each type of chocolate. For example, factors like the scale of the cocoa butter, with or without milk fat, with or without lecithin classify the chocolate with different temperature factors. All the above is about the melting of cocoa butter in chocolate, other elements still remain in their solid forms.

巧克力的調溫（完美的結晶）

目標為將融化的巧克力從液態還原成剛出廠的狀態，巧克力的調溫應遵照相關操作指南，並 滿足不同種類巧克力的不同調溫要求。

Tempering Chocolate (Aim for perfect crystallization)

Revert the chocolate from liquid back to its original form right from the factory. That is the reason why tempering chocolate must follow all instructions from the chocolate factory and fulfill the different tempering requirements of different kinds of chocolate.

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微波爐加熱融化法

將巧克力磚切碎，或直接選用鈕扣巧克力，倒入可微波的容器中，設定在 低瓦數，放入微波爐加熱融化一分鐘後，使用刮刀慢慢地攪拌混合，接續 以 30 秒為單位進行加熱和攪拌，直到所有巧克力皆融化或達目標溫度。 微波爐加熱法因為無法長時間維持穩定的溫度，確保可可脂維持未結晶狀 態，所以並不適合使用於巧克力 Bonbon 的披覆或灌模巧克力的應用。

Microwave Melting Method

Put the finely chopped chocolate or chocolate pistols in a microwave proof container.

Melt it in the microwave on low power, and slowly stir and mix with a chocolate

spatula in the first minute, then set the timer to 30 seconds and mix, repeat the

process until all the chocolate had been completely melted or reach the desired temperature. This method is not suitable for coating or molding chocolate bonbon,

because it cannot maintain the temperature stably for a long period of time enable to unformed all the crystallized cocoa fat.

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使用巧克力加熱保溫爐、大型巧克力加熱保溫箱或 大量生產用巧克力自動調溫機融化

將切碎的巧克力磚或鈕扣巧克力，放入可以精確設定控制溫度的儀器中，不論帶有自動 攪拌功能與否皆可行，將巧克力倒入機器中放置 6 至 24 小時，此調溫方式適合各式應 用。倘若使用巧克力調溫機，還可自動進行並完成三個關鍵步驟巧克力的融化、調溫和 升溫，最終達到並穩定維持在最佳使用溫度，以利後續應用。

Chocolate Warmer, Dry Cabin or Chocolate Tempering Machine Melting Method

An accurate temperature control system, it does not matter whether it comes with or without auto mixing function. Just put the finely chopped chocolate or chocolate pistols in the machine and set

the temperature. It can maintain the temperature stably. Set the machine to melt the chocolate for

at least 6 hours to 24 hours or even longer. This method is suitable for all applications. If you are working with chocolate tempering machine, it can even automatically go through all the process of the three factors and finally maintain at the perfect temperature ready for use.

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巧克力晶種調溫法

剛出廠的巧克力由穩定的脂肪結晶組成，取還未經過融化的巧克力進行秤 量，秤取出融化巧克力總重量的 1/ 3 後，將巧克力攪打碎、刨絲或切細碎， 加入融化的巧克力當中稍微進行混和，接者先停止攪拌。靜置五分鐘讓其 浸泡，再次將巧克力攪拌至均勻後，進行二度加熱至包裝上所標示的升溫 溫度。請確保將切碎備用的巧克力妥善保存於涼爽乾燥的環境，並將包裝 確實封好。因為一但巧克力經過切碎的過程，裡頭的可可脂已被氧化且變 得很容易融化。

Seeding with Chocolate Tempering Method

Chocolate from factory is seeded with stable fat crystals, finely blended, grated or chopped 1/3 weight of the melted chocolate. Mix the grated chocolate into the

melted chocolate, then stop stirring and let them soak for five minutes. Stir well the

chocolate again, reheat the chocolate to the raising factor temperature if necessary.

Chocolate that has been grated must be stored in cool and dry place and sealed well, because the cocoa butter has been oxidized. And it will melt easily after being grated.

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隔水加熱法

使用鋸齒刀將巧克力磚切細碎，或直接選用鈕扣巧克力，倒入耐熱容器中。 取一支鍋倒入半滿的熱水，將盛裝巧克力的容器放於鍋上進行隔水加熱， 小心勿直接將盛裝巧克力的容器接觸鍋底，並使用小火加熱，確保鍋中水 未達沸騰狀態。過程中使用刮刀攪拌混合巧克力，小心勿進水，直到所有 巧克力皆融化或達目標溫度。隔水加熱法因為無法長時間維持穩定的溫度， 且確保可可脂維持未結晶狀態，所以並不適合使用於巧克力 Bonbon 的披 覆或灌模巧克力的應用。除一例外，使用隔水加熱型的巧克力加熱保溫爐。

Double Boiling Melting Method

If you use chocolate block finely chopped it with a saw knife or just simply use

chocolate pistols. Put the chocolate in a heat proof container, then fill half way of

hot water in a pot. Place the container on the pot and make sure it didn’t touch the bottom of the pot. Heat over low heat and mustn’t boil the water. Frequently stir and

mix with a chocolate spatula and avoid letting water get in the chocolate. Completely

melt all the chocolate or reach the desired temperature. This method is not suitable for coating or molding chocolate bonbon, because it cannot maintain the

temperature stably for a long period of time enable to unformed all the crystallized cocoa fat. Except for one condition using water heating chocolate warmer.

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美可優可可脂粉調溫法

將融化的巧克力置於室溫下降溫，當溫度降至高於包裝上所標示的升溫溫 度 2 至 3 度的狀態時，即可加入巧克力總重 1% 的 Cacao Barry 美可優可 可脂粉，混合均勻直到降溫至所標示的升溫溫度。美可優可可脂粉調溫法 並不適合用於成分未含可可微粒的巧克力。

Tempering with Mycryo Method

Leave the above melted chocolate to cool down at room temperature until it’s 2 to

3 degree Celsius higher than the raising factor temperature. Then add 1% mycryo of

the chocolate weight, mix well until it reaches the raising factor temperature. This method is not suitable for chocolate without cocoa particles.

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大理石調溫法

可溫和且穩定的將融化巧克力進行冷卻，是傳統且值得信賴的調溫方法，但須確保大理石檯 面未因下方安裝冰箱受影響而溫度過底，會導致巧克力過度結晶。若室溫過高，導致大理石 檯面的強烈溫差，表面會產生一層濕氣，不利於巧克力的調溫作業。

The Traditional Marble Slab Tempering Method

Perfect way to gently and steadily cool down the chocolate. It is a traditional and reliable tempering

chocolate method, but should not use a marble slab on top of the refrigerator. Because if the marble slab is too cold, it will lead to over crystallization. If the room temperature is too high and have a wide

range temperature drop with the marble slab, the surface will always be covered with a layer of moisture, which is disadvantageous to tempering chocolate.

將 3/4 的融化巧克力倒於大理石檯面上，將餘下的 1/ 4 巧克力進行保溫或維持隔水加熱。首 先將巧克力以 L 型抹刀來回抹開。請不要將巧克力抹過開，過大的表面積會使巧克力太快冷 卻。L 型抹刀請勿太快速操作會導致空氣被拌入巧克力中，上述兩項皆會導致巧克力過快即 凝固，調溫過後表面呈現霧霧的未帶有光澤。 Pour 3/4 of the melted chocolate on the marble slab, keep the remaining 1/4 chocolate in warm or with

"Double boiling” method. Firstly spread out the chocolate with an angled spatulas, but don’t spread it too wide on the marble. So you won’t let the temperature of chocolate drops down too fast, also don’t

move the spatulas too quickly in order to avoid incorporation of air bubbles. If the chocolate hardens too fast, the final outcome of tempered chocolate will be dulled rather than shiny.

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此時改為使用巧克力調溫專用鏟刀，將巧克力來回刮拌匯集，接者將巧克力以更大面積的抹 開，重複此動作，每回將巧克力匯集時，皆須以能夠精確且快速測量溫度的溫度計進行測量 檢視溫度。當達到目標溫度時，請將所有巧克力倒回保溫的 1/ 4 巧克力中拌勻，此時巧克力 表面應帶有光澤，持續溫和地進行攪拌，當表面出現絲綢般的質地，代表巧克力當中的可可 脂正在很好的進行結晶，接著巧克力會開始凝固。將巧克力隔水加熱至包裝上所標示的升溫 溫度，過程中持續攪拌，請於巧克力凝固前盡快進行使用。 Fold all around the chocolate in middle with a chocolate scraper, then again spread out the chocolate this

time a bit wider than before. Repeat this operation and use an accurate thermometer that can quickly detected the current temperature. Check the temperature every time when the chocolate has been

retrieved to middle. If the temperature reaches the requested tempering factor temperature, transfer all the tempered chocolate into the remaining 1/4 warm chocolate and mix them well. The surface should be

completely shiny and continue to stir gently. When starting to crystallized, the satin like surface is a sign

of correctly crystallization of the cocoa butter inside the chocolate. And follow with chocolate hardening.

Raise the chocolate temperature to the raising factor temperature with "Double boiling" method and stir frequently, use it as soon as possible before it set.

若巧克力變得過於濃稠，可再度予以加熱，但請勿將此批調溫過的巧克力加熱超過三次，會 導致過度結晶。另一作法，可將巧克力加熱保溫爐設定在所標示的升溫溫度，將調溫過的巧 克力保存於其中。倘若在作業時發現雖然在相同溫度下，巧克力的質地卻變得更為濃稠，代 表巧克力已過度結晶。

Warm the chocolate again if it thickens but no more than three times of the same batch of chocolate,

because it will lead to over crystallization. Or you can just keep the tempered chocolate at the raising

factor temperature in a chocolate warmer. If you observe the chocolate become thicker at the same temperature during working than before, that is a hint of over crystallization.

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舒肥融化和調溫法 Sous Vide Cook Melting & Tempering Method

將巧克力磚切碎，或直接選用鈕扣巧克力，請確保無帶有會刺穿真空袋的尖角後，裝入真空 袋中完全密封收真空，將舒肥機放入水中，溫度設定成巧克力包裝袋上的建議融化溫度，不 同種類的巧克力其調溫結晶曲線皆不同，請務必先進行確認。

Finely chopped the chocolate block or use chocolate pistols instead. Make sure there is no sharp angle that might punctuate the vacuum pouch. Put the chocolate into a vacuum pouch and fully vacuum and seal it. Put the immersion circulator precision cooker in water and set the temperature within the range

of the melting factor. Different kinds of chocolate have different crystallization curve, so always check the chocolate package before melting it.

將盛裝巧克力的真空袋放入水中，正常狀態下因為經過真空密封過程會直接沉入底部，若未 沉入亦可使用磁鐵或夾子加以固定，真空低溫烹調 12 至 24 小時。舒肥法不適合使用於巧克 力 Bonbon 的披覆或灌模巧克力的應用。 Put the pouch into the water. It should sink down to the bottom because it has been fully vacuumed, if it

floats on the water just simply use a magnet or a clip to fasten it. Warm the chocolate for 12 to 24 hours.

This method is not suitable for coating or molding chocolate bonbon.

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調降舒肥機溫度設定成包裝上建議的調溫溫度，於水中加入大量冰塊，此過程維持一至兩小 時，取決於真空袋中融化巧克力的濃稠度，越濃稠耗時越長，調高溫度設定成建議升溫溫度， 維持在此溫度以利進行相關應用。 Turn down the temperature to the tempering factor temperature, then add a lot of ice cubes into the water. Continue this step for one to two hours, it depends on the thickness of the melting chocolate

inside the pouch. It takes longer if the chocolate is thicker. Turn up the temperature to the raising factor temperature and maintain at the perfect temperature ready for use.

將所需用量的密封巧克力真空袋從水中取出，以廚房紙巾將真空袋表面的水吸乾，打開取出 巧克力後，可直接進行使用。 Dry out the pouch with kitchen towel, break the sealed vacuum pouch and use the tempered chocolate directly.

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白蜜桃東方美人茶夾心巧克力 ( 灌模 )

White Peach and Dongfang Meiren Tea Bonbon ( in Mold ) 份量 50 個

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白蜜桃夾餡 White Peach Insert

・ 116g 保虹冷凍白蜜桃果泥 (1) Les vergers Boiron FZ White Peach Puree (Non Sugar) (1) ・ 25g 海藻糖 Trehalose Sugar

・ 85g 保虹冷凍白蜜桃果泥 (2) Les vergers Boiron FZ White Peach Puree (Non Sugar) (2) ・ 42g 索莎菊苣 / 菊糖 ( 熱用 ) SOSA Inulina in Hot

・ 13g 主廚嚴選轉化糖漿 Flavors & Chefs Trimoline-Invert Sugar Syrup ・ 10g 水蜜桃香甜酒 18% Peach Liqueur 18%

1. 將白蜜桃果泥 (1) 和海藻糖混合備用。 Mix white peach puree (1) and trehalose sugar well, then set aside.

2. 混合白蜜桃果泥 (2) 和熱用菊糖，並加熱。 Mix white peach puree (2) and inulin, then bring to boil.

3. 同時準備隔水加熱作業，將溫度控制在 90° C，當步驟 (2) 果泥溫度達到 80° C 時，改以隔水加熱。持續加熱 攪拌 10 分鐘，亦可使用 Thermomix 設定 80° C 加熱。 Prepare a double boiling and control the tempature at around 90°C. When step 2 boiling mixture reach 80°C, change to cook it on double boiling. Continue to cook the mixture for 10 minutes, keep stirring during the cooking process or use Thermomix set at 80°C and blend.

4. 離火，先加入轉化糖漿混合均勻，最後加入水蜜桃香甜酒拌勻。 Off heat, and blend in invert sugar. Finally blend in peach liqueur.

5. 裝入容器中，表層覆蓋保鮮膜，存放於巧克力房中定型 ( 溫度 15-18° C / 相對溼度 55- 65%)。 Keep in a container and cover top surface with cling film. Store it in chocolate room (15-18 ° C / relative humidity 55- 65%) to set.

6. 待定型後，即可撕開表層保鮮膜。 Peel off the cling film after set.

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東方美人茶巧克力甘納許 Dongfang Meiren Tea Chocolate Ganache ・ 38g 東方美人茶葉 Dongfang Meiren Tea Leaves ・ 63g 水 Natural Water

・ 10g 海藻糖 Trehalose Sugar

・ 225g 總統牌動物性鮮奶油 President UHT Cream 35.1%

・ 13g 主廚嚴選轉化糖漿 Flavors & Chefs Trimoline-Invert Sugar Syrup

・ 67g 可可巴芮亞然加牛奶巧克力 41% Cacao Barry Alunga Milk Couverture Chocolate 41% ・ 198g 可可巴芮伊那亞黑巧克力 65% Cacao Barry Inaya Dark Couverture Chocolate 65% ・ 37g 總統牌 84% 無鹽片裝奶油 President Tourage Unsalted Not Colored Butter 84%

1. 將東方美人茶葉和水混合，表層覆蓋保鮮膜，存放於冰箱隔 夜冷泡。 Mix tea leaves and water well and cover top surface with cling film. Refrigerate overnight.

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2. 於冷泡茶葉中加入鮮奶油，加熱至接近沸騰。靜置一旁，浸 泡數分鐘。 Add cream into the tea and bring to boil until almost boiling. Set aside and let them soak for few minutes.

3. 過濾出茶湯。重新秤量，確保重量達原水加鮮奶油 的 57.7%，若不足加入額外鮮奶油補足。 Drain out all tea leaves. Reweight the mixture and add more cream if the weight is less than 57.7% of the original liquid weight.

4. 東方美人奶茶加入海藻糖混合，加熱至沸騰後，冷 卻至 80° C。 Mix tea infused cream with trehalose sugar, then bring to boil until boiling. Let it cool to 80° C.

5. 加入轉化糖漿混合均勻後，倒於巧克力上浸泡一 會。 Mix in invert sugar with step 4 mixture well. Pour it over all the chocolates and let them soak for a while.

6. 使用手持均質機乳化至質地滑順。 Blend the mixture with a hand blender until smooth.

7. 當溫度降至 35 - 39° C，加入奶油混合均勻。 Blend in cold butter when the mixture reaches 35 - 39° C.

8. 表層覆蓋保鮮膜，存放於巧克力房中定型 ( 溫度 15-18° C / 相對溼度 55- 65%)。 Cover top surface with cling film. Store it in chocolate room (15-18°C / relative humidity 55- 65%) to set.

9. 待定型後，即可撕開表層保鮮膜。小心確保無異物 掉入或被汙染。 Peel off the cling film after the surface is set. Be cautious of foreign substance and contamination.

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彩色可可脂 Colored Cocoa Butter

・ 50g 可可巴芮美可優可可脂粉 (1) Cacao Barry Mycryo Cocoa Butter(1) ・

1g

粉紅色色粉 Pink Coloring Powder

・

2g

白色色粉 White Coloring Powder

・ 50g 可可巴芮美可優可可脂粉 (2) Cacao Barry Mycryo Cocoa Butter(2)

1. 將可可脂 (1) 融化調溫後，加入粉紅色 色粉調和均勻備用。 Melt cocoa butter (1) then mix in pink coloring powder. Temper it well.

2. 將可可脂 (2) 融化調溫後，加入白色色 粉調和均勻備用。 Melt cocoa butter (2) then mix in white coloring powder. Temper it well.

上色 Painting ・ ・

3g 5g

金色色粉 Gold Powder

90% 食用酒 Food Grade 90% Alcohol

1. 將金色色粉和食用酒混合均勻，使用筆刷於模具上彩繪圖樣。 Mix well gold powder and alcohol, then use a paint brush to paint patterns in the mold.

灌模用巧克力 Coating Chocolate ・ 1000g 可可巴芮瓜瓦基爾調溫巧克力 64%

Cacao Barry Extra Bitter Guayaquil Dark Couverture Chocolate 64%

1. 使 用 棉 球 清 潔 巧 克 力 模 具， 存 放 於 巧克力房中 ( 溫度 15-18° C / 相對溼度 55- 65%)。 Polish the inside of the sphere mold with dry cotton wool, then store it in chocolate room (15-18°C / relative humidity 55- 65%).

2. 將粉紅色可可脂使用筆刷或戴手套刷 於模具上。 Brush the pink color cocoa butter on the mold or you can wear gloves, dip your finger into the pink color cocoa butter and brush it into each cavity of the mold.

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3. 噴上金色色粉。 Spray the gold painting on top.

4. 噴上白色可可脂，但不要完全噴滿，待定型。 Finally spray white color cocoa butter on the mold, but don’t cover the sphere completely. Then let it set.

5. 擠入調溫好的灌模用巧克力。 Pipe the tempered coating chocolate into the mold.

6. 倒扣模具，倒出多餘的巧克力，並以刮刀刮至表面平 整。 Turn the mold upside down. Remove excess chocolate and flatten the top surface.

7. 開口面朝下放於烘焙紙上，待其定型。 Place the coated mold on a baking paper faced down on working table and let it set.

8. 同時，於塑膠脫膜片上做出相同的花紋，覆上一層薄 薄的巧克力，將會作為封底使用。 Meanwhile, paint the patterns on a plastic guitar sheet, cover it with extremely thin coating chocolate.

It will be used to seal the bottom of the bonbon.

9. 將巧克力甘那許表層使用保鮮膜封住放於溫暖處軟 化，或使用微波爐稍微加熱，小心勿過度加熱。 Before filling the chocolate ganache, cover top surface with a clean cling film and keep it at a warm place to let it get soft. Or you can mildly warm it with microwave, but be careful not to overheat it.

10. 當巧克力甘納許變軟後，選用高效能手持均質機打 至帶有很好的流動性，但小心勿讓空氣進去。白蜜桃夾 餡也採相同前置作業。 When the ganache became soft, blend it with a good hand blender till it is well flowing. Make sure you don’t blend air into the ganache. Same for the white peach insert.

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11. 巧克力甘納許使用擠花袋擠至 80% 滿，中心填入 白蜜桃夾餡，再擠上巧克力甘納許覆蓋，晃動模具使 表面平整。 Pipe the chocolate ganache into the mold about 80% full, then fill the insert in the center of the filling. Pipe some more chocolate ganache to cover the top, then gently shake the mold to get a flat surface.

12. 存放於巧克力冷房中定型後，使用吹風機或巧克 力熱風機以 60° C 加熱表層，確保不要融化。 Let it set at chocolate room. Use a hair dryer or chocolate heat gun (60° C) to warm up the surface but don’t melt it.

13. 擠入調溫好的灌模用巧克力，蓋上帶有花紋的巧克 力脫模片。 Pipe the tempered coating chocolate into the mold, then cover it with the decorated plastic guitar sheet.

14. 使用巧克力刮刀刮除多餘的部分，並使表面平整。 Use a chocolate scraper to force remove excess coating chocolate and get a flat surface.

15. 靜置於巧克力冷房中，定型後即可脫模享用。 Let it set at chocolate room. Demold and serve.

16. 使用此配方製成的巧克力 Bonbon 成品保存期限應 可達 5-6 週。 This chocolate bonbon recipe should have up to 5- 6 weeks shelf life.

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57

巴薩米克酒醋夾心巧克力 ( 披覆 )

Balsamic Vinegar Palet D'or Chocolate Bonbon (Coating) 份量 60 個

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蘭姆酒葡萄乾 Rum Raisin Preservation ・ 173.7g 無籽葡萄乾 Seedless Raisin ・

7.7g

鸚鵡牌細蔗糖 La Perruche Cassonade Sugar

・ 38.6g 黑蘭姆酒 Dark Rum

1. 將葡萄乾於流動清水下沖洗，瀝除水分，使用廚 房紙巾吸乾多餘的水分。 Wash raisins under running water for a while, then drain and dry with a kitchen towel.

2. 將一撮鹽和水混合，倒入步驟 (1) 的葡萄乾中，足 以蓋過葡萄乾即可，表層使用包鮮膜封住。 Mix a pinch of salt with water, then pour on the raisins just enough to cover them. Seal with plastic film.

3. 將葡萄乾放入微波爐中加熱至沸騰後，取出置於 室溫當中一會兒。 Cook the raisins inside microwave until fully boiling, let it out and stand at room temperature for a while.

4. 再次瀝除葡萄乾中的多餘水分，不需要用手施壓， 使用廚房紙巾吸乾多餘的水分。 Drain out extra water, but don't press the raisins.

Then dry out with a kitchen towel.

5. 不需封保鮮膜，再次將葡萄乾放入微波爐當中加 熱，直到表面乾燥裏面依舊柔軟。 Put the raisins back to a mixing bowl, then cook it inside microwave without cover until it become drier but still soft inside.

6. 加入細蔗糖與葡萄乾混合均勻，再倒入黑蘭姆酒 混合，表層使用保鮮膜封住。 Mix brown sugar into the raisins well, then mix in old rum well. Cover and seal with plastic film.

7. 再次放入微波爐中加熱，直到保鮮膜膨起後取出。 Cook the raisins inside the microwave until the plastic film has puffed up. Take it out from the microwave.

8. 放在室溫下備用，不要撕除保鮮膜，降溫過程中 會自然形成真空狀態後，放入冷藏。 Keep it at room temperature, but don't peel off the plastic film until it has vacuum sealed result.

Keep in fridge.

9. 前置時間為使用前一天。 Prepare it the day before.

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巴薩米克濃縮酒醋 Concentrated Balsamic Vinegar ・ ・

66g

6.6g

安地其經典摩典那巴薩米克酒醋 ( 金級 ) Antichi Colli Balsamico Vinegar of Modena 3 Cypress 砂糖 White Sugar

1. 將巴薩米克酒醋和砂糖一同加熱，收汁到一半的 量後，離火冷卻。 Bring all balsamic vinegar and sugar together to boil until reduce to half, then let it cool down.

2. 區師傅小撇步 : 使用微波爐加熱收汁。 Best way is to heat and reduce the balsamic vinegar using microwave.

巴薩米克巧克力甘納許 Balsamic Vinegar Chocolate Ganache ・

187g

可可巴芮瓜瓦基爾調溫巧克力 64% Cacao Barry Extra Bitter Guayaquil Dark Couverture Chocolate 64%

・

10g

可可巴芮美可優可可脂粉 Cacao Barry Mycryo Cocoa Butter

・

188g

・

200g

・

15g

・ ・ ・

15g 50g 30g

可可巴芮亞然加牛奶巧克力 41% Cacao Barry Alunga Milk Couverture Chocolate 41% 總統牌動物性鮮奶油 President UHT Cream 35.1% 海藻糖 Trehalose Sugar

主廚嚴選轉化糖漿 Flavors & Chefs Trimoline-Invert Sugar Syrup

總統牌 84% 無鹽片裝奶油 President Tourage Unsalted Not Colored Butter 84% Fat 巴薩米克濃縮酒醋 Concentrated Balsamic Vinegar

1. 將黑巧克力和牛奶巧克力切碎，裝入足夠高的罐 中，備用。 Finely chopped both dark and milk chocolate, put them in a high jar, set aside for further process.

2. 將鮮奶油和海藻糖混合均勻，加熱至接近沸騰後， 降溫至 80° C，加入轉化糖漿攪拌均勻。 Mix cream and trehalose sugar together, then bring to boil until almost boiling. Let it slightly cool down to 80° C. Add in the invert sugar syrup.

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3. 將溫熱的鮮奶油倒入切碎巧克力中，浸泡一會兒， 使用手持均質機均質乳化。 Pour the hot cream into step 1 mixture and let them soak for a while. Blend the mixture with a hand blender.

4. 加入可可脂粉，持續均質乳化直到帶有光澤且質 地滑順。 Add in cocoa butter and continue to blend the mixture until it become shiny and smooth texture.

5. 將溫度控制在 35-40° C，加入冷的奶油丁混合， 最後倒入巴薩米克濃縮酒醋混合均勻。 Control the mixture at around 35-40°C , blend in cold butter dices well. Then add in the concentrated vinegar and blend it well.

6. 表層覆蓋保鮮膜，存放於巧克力房中定型 ( 溫度 15-18° C / 相對溼度 55-65%)。 Cover top surface with cling film. Store it in chocolate room (15-18°C / relative humidity 55- 65%) to set.

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披覆用巧克力 Coating Chocolate ・ ・

500g 5g

可可巴芮醇品迦納牛奶調溫巧克力 40.5% Cacao Barry Ghana Milk Couverture 40.5% 可可巴芮美可優可可脂粉 Cacao Barry Mycryo Cocoa Butter

1. 將牛奶巧克力融化後混合可可脂粉調溫。 Melt the chocolates , then temper with Mycryo cocoa butter.

裝飾 Decoration ・ ・

0.2g Q.S.

金箔 Gold Leaf

狄吉富塑膠脫膜片 DGF Guitare Decor Sheet (Peld)

組裝 Assemble

1. 將披覆用巧克力融化調溫，將塑膠脫模片對半割開，均勻抹上一層巧克力。 Melt and temper the coating chocolate. Cut a plastic sheet in equal half, then spread evenly the coating chocolate on a plastic sheet.

2. 再蓋上一層塑膠脫模片，使用擀麵棍稍微擀開去除多餘的巧克力，未定型前撕開兩片塑膠脫模片，會 形成兩片巧克力薄片。 Cover the top with another sheet, remove the excess chocolates using a rolling pin. Peel off the plastic before they set.

3. 使用介於 25-30mm 的圓型切模，保持間距的進 行分切，放入巧克力冷房中定型。移除切除的邊角 巧克力，將圓型巧克力片留在塑膠脫模片上。 Use a 25 mm-30 mm round cutter to cut it.

Keep space between each circle, then let set at chocolate room. Remove the non-circle chocolate part but keep the circle one on the plastic.

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4. 將軟化的巧克力甘納許裝入接上圓形花嘴的擠花 袋中，將些許甘納許擠於巧克力圓片上。 Fill the soften chocolate ganache in a piping bag with a round piping tube. Pipe just a little ganache on each chocolat.

5. 放上一個蘭姆酒葡萄乾。 Put a raisin on it.

6. 再擠上甘納許確保和巧克力片大小相近。 Pipe more ganache to cover the raisin make it roughly the same size as the circle.

7. 將其放入 10mm 高的框模中，再蓋上一層塑膠脫模片，放上一個烤盤輕壓，確保每個高度為 10 mm。 Place a 10 mm thick frame around it and place another plastic sheet on top, then gently press a flat tray on the frame making each ganache 10 mm thick.

8. 取下烤盤和移除框模，放入巧克力冷房中 24 小時讓其定型。 Take off the tray and the frame, then let it set at chocolate room for 24 hours.

9. 撕除甘納許面的塑膠脫模片，再放 12 小時讓其定型。 Peel off the plastic sheet on the ganache side, let it set for another 12 hours.

10. 使用巧克力熱風機加熱相同的圓形切模後，幫巧克力甘納許修邊，再放 12 小時讓其定型。 Use a chocolate heat gun to warm up the same round cutter. Use it to trim the chocolate ganache and let it set for another 12 hours.

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11. 取一塑膠脫模片，裁切成 4.5 mm x 4.5 mm 正方形大小。取牙籤沾油後點於每張塑膠脫模片正中心， 黏上一張金箔，靜置備用。 Trim one plastic sheet into 4.5 mm x 4.5 mm square. Dip a toothpick in oil, then dot on middle of each square plastic. Stick a pieces of gold leaf on the spot, then set aside for later process.

12. 準備 15° C 的工作環境以便進行接續的巧克力披覆作業，融化調溫披覆用巧克力，將巧克力甘納許浸 入裹覆上一層薄博的巧克力。 Prepare a 15°C working environment that is big enough to keep all the chocolate bonbon for coating. Melt and temper the coating chocolate, then put a chocolate ganache in it to get a thin coating.

13. 放上 4.5 mm x 4.5 mm 正方形塑膠片輕壓，將披覆完成的巧克力盡快存放於 15° C 的空間，盡快讓披 覆的巧克力定型。 Place the square plastic sheet on top and gently press down, then move the just coated chocolate to a 15° C environment in order to set the coating as soon as possible.

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14. 定型後即可放回巧克力冷房中。販售前再移除表面的塑膠片。 Move the bonbons back to the chocolate room when the coating is set. When served, peel off the top square plastic.

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鐵觀音覆盆莓生巧克力

Raspberry and Tea Nama Chocolate 份量 60 個

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鐵觀音蜂蜜鮮奶油 Tea and Honey Infusion ・

450g

總統牌動物性鮮奶油 President UHT Cream 35.1%

・

38g

鐵觀音茶葉 Ti Kuan Yin Tea Leaf

・

60g

洋槐蜂蜜 Acacia Honey

1. 將蜂蜜和鮮奶油混合，加熱至 65° C 後離火，和茶 葉混合。 Mix all honey and cream, then heat until reaches 65° C. Off heat, then mix with tea leaves.

2. 將步驟 (1) 奶茶倒入真空袋中真空，以 65° C 低溫 烹調 90 分鐘。 Pour step 1 mixture in a vacuum bag, then fully vacuum sealed the bag. Sous vide cook at 65 ° C for 1.5 hours.

3. 儘速降溫，冷藏隔夜保存後，盡可能瀝出所有的 液體。 Cool down the mixture as soon as possible, keep in fridge overnight. Drain out all liquid for further process.

4. 重新秤量，確保重量達原總液體重量的 64%，若 不足加入額外鮮奶油補足。 Reweight the tea infused cream, add more cream if the weight is less than 64% of the original weight.

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鐵觀音巧克力甘納許 Ti Kuan Yin Tea Chocolate Ganache ・ ・ ・

42g

總統牌 84% 無鹽片裝奶油 President Tourage Unsalted Not Colored Butter 84% Fat

42g

可可巴芮亞然加牛奶巧克力 41% Cacao Barry Alunga Milk Couverture Chocolate 41%

150g

可可巴芮伊那亞黑巧克力 65% Cacao Barry Inaya Dark Couverture Chocolate 65%

1. 將鐵觀音蜂蜜鮮奶油和奶油混合，加熱至沸騰即 可離火。 Mix the tea infused cream with butter, bring it to boil until just boiling. Off heat.

2. 將兩種巧克力裝在同個容器，倒入熱鮮奶油，蓋 過巧克力即可。 Put milk and dark chocolate together, pour the hot cream in it just enough to cover all of the chocolate.

3. 讓巧克力浸泡數分鐘，將其餘剩下的鮮奶油降溫 至 28° C。使用手持均質機將巧克力均質乳化後， 再倒進餘下的鮮奶油中。 Let the chocolate and cream soak for a few minutes. Cool down the remaining cream and control it at around 28 ° C.Blend the chocolate mixture with a hand blender, blend until you get well emulsion. Then, slowly pour it into the remaining cream.

4. 一邊倒巧克力的同時用手持均質機均質乳化，小 心不要拌入空氣。 Blend while pouring the chocolate mixture into the remaining cream. Be careful not to blend air into the mixture.

5. 倒入框模中，移至巧克力冷房待其定型後，放冷 藏保存。 Pour in a frame, let it set at chocolate room.

Then, move to fridge for storage.

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覆盆莓粉裝飾 Raspberry Powder for Decoration ・ ・

10g 65g

可可巴芮美可優可可脂粉 Cacao Barry Mycryo Cocoa Butter

富鮮冷凍乾燥覆盆莓粉 Fresh As Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder

1. 將覆盆莓粉和美可優可可脂粉混合均勻後，加熱至 38° C，目的為更不易受潮。 Mix well Mycryo cocoa butter and raspberry fruit powder, then heat it to reach 38 ° C. It will make the raspberry powder for decoration moisture-proof.

組裝 Assemble

1. 將生巧克力脫模，篩上一層覆盆莓粉裝飾後翻 面。 Demold the frame. Dust a thin layer of the raspberry powder mixture, then turn it upside down.

2. 使用滾輪切刀先畫出痕跡標記後，再用刀將甘納 許切成方塊，再另一面也篩上一層覆盆莓粉裝飾， 冷藏保存。 Use a wheel dough cutter to mark the line.

Then, cut the ganache in cubes and dust the other layer of raspberry powder on top surface for decoration, keep in fridge before serve.

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熱帶水果蘭姆酒心巧克力 Bonbon

Tropical Fruit Rum Cockolate Bonbon 份量 40 個

70

・ 1000g 玉米澱粉 Corn Starch ・

17g

保虹冷凍綜合熱帶水果果泥 Les vergers Boiron FZ Fruit Puree (Non Sugar)

・

190g

海藻糖 Trehalose Sugar

・

90g

・ ・

15g 15g

・

500g

・

15g

・

30g

馬里布椰子蘭姆酒 Malibu Coconut Liqueur

主廚嚴選葡萄糖漿 Flavors & Chefs Glucose Syrup 水 Water

可可巴芮醇品聖多明尼克苦甜調溫巧克力 70% Cacao Barry Saint Domingue Dark Couverture 70% 索莎防潮芒果碎片 SOSA Wet Proof Crispy Mango 黑蘭姆酒 Dark Rum

1. 以 50-60° C 低溫隔夜烘烤乾燥玉米澱粉。 3. 混合果泥、椰子蘭姆酒和黑蘭姆酒，裝在容器中 W a r m a n d d r y t h e co r n sta r c h a t a l o w 保存。 temperature oven about 50-60° C overnight.

Mix all puree, liqueur and rum together, then keep them in a container.

2. 將玉米澱粉過篩入木盒中填滿，將表面弄平整 後，於玉米澱粉上以模具壓出形狀備用。 Sift the corn starch full in a wooden box. Flatting the surface, then make shape inside the starch.

Set aside.

4. 將水、海藻糖和葡萄糖漿加熱至 106-107° C 後， 離火。降溫至 70-80° C。 Bring water, trehalose sugar and glucose to boil in a pot until 106-107°C, off heat. Let it cool down to 70-80°C.

5. 將糖漿倒入盛裝果泥和酒的容器中，再一起倒回 鍋中，重複此步驟兩次進行混合，因為為飽和溶液， 不可以攪拌方式混合。 Pour step 4 syrup into step 3 container, then pour it back in the pot, repeat this process twice.

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6. 將步驟 5 混合物裝填入按壓式漏斗定量器中，填 滿玉米澱粉中預先壓出的形狀。 Fill step 5 mixture in a quantifier cylinder and fill full into the starch box shape.

7. 表層再篩上一層玉米澱粉，置於溫暖的環境中 2 小時候，上方蓋上木板。 Sprinkle the remaining corn starch on top surface. Set aside for 2 hours in warm place, then place a wood board on top.

8. 置於偏溫暖的室溫當中過夜，敲開玉米澱粉模， 取出結晶的液態酒糖。 Store in a warm room temperature room overnight. Break the starch mold, take out the crystallized bonbon filling.

9. 使用刷子將表面多餘的玉米澱粉刷除，底部刷上 一層薄薄的巧克力，待其定型。 Remove the excess starch from the bonbon with a brush, then brush a thin layer of coating chocolate on bottom and let set.

10. 將巧克力融化調溫後，將液態酒糖裹覆上巧克力，擺上芒果碎片裝飾。 Melt and temper the coating chocolate, then coat all the filling with the chocolate. Set a crispy mango on top as decoration.

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創意吃法：將酒心巧克力於冰水中浸泡 15 分鐘或直接放冷凍後，取出立即享用， 帶給您猶如品飲熱帶水果蘭姆酒 Shot 的爽快感，冰心沁涼的夏日絕佳享受 !

Indulge yourself in a special way : Soak the chocolate bonbon in ice water for 15 minutes or just freeze it to have well as a shot of tropical fruit rum cocktail! Cheers to Summer!

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糖漬苦瓜巧克力

Dipped Candied Bitter Melon Slice 份量 60 個

74

川燙苦瓜 Blenched Bitter Melon ・ ・

250g 30g

白玉苦瓜 White Bitter Melon

馬爾頓天然海鹽 Maldon Sea Salt

・ 7000g 水 Water

1. 清水洗淨苦瓜，對半切，取出苦瓜籽，修成同樣 厚度。 Wash the bitter melon and cut in half. Remove seeds and trim to the same thickness.

2. 於鍋中倒入 1.4 公升的水和 6 公克的海鹽，放入 苦瓜，以小火加熱至沸騰。 Pour 1.4 liter of tap water, 6 gram sea salt and step 1 bitter melon in a pot, bring to boil at low heat until boiling.

3. 濾掉所有水，將苦瓜放在冰塊中中浸泡數分鐘。 Drain out all liquid and place the bitter melon into ice water and soak for a few minutes.

4. 重複此步驟直到苦瓜變柔軟，或白色果肉部分看 似吸滿水的海綿。 Repeat this step until the bitter melon become tender or the white part look like a fully soaked sponge.

5. 越軟的水果川燙過程耗時越短，但同樣地也越脆 弱，過程中需以網狀彈性繃帶包覆水果保護。 Soft fruits take less time at the blanching process but it is more fragile and may need to be wrapped with finger bandage during the whole process.

6. 軟硬度為中至硬的水果川燙過程耗時越長，但過 程較好掌控。 M e d i u m to h a rd f r u i ts ta ke m o re t i m e i n blanching process, but the whole process goes quite smoothly.

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糖漬用糖漿 Confit Syrup ・ 1125g 砂糖 White Sugar ・

750g

水 Water

・

Q.S.

視喜好加入香料 : 香草莢… Desired Spices, ex. Vanilla Bean

・

400g

主廚嚴選葡萄糖漿 Flavors & Chefs Glucose Syrup

1. 此糖漬用糖漿配方的糖和水比例為 1.5 : 1，與一般糖漬用糖漿的糖和水比例為 2 : 1 相比較低，可視需 求喜好調整所需的糖漿比例。 The ratio of the confit syrup is sugar 1.5 : water 1, that is lower than the normal confit syrup with the ratio of sugar 2 : water 1. You can pick your own desired ratio.

2. 將砂糖均分為 5-6 份。第一次務必先下第一份砂糖的一半量即可。 First, divide the sugar into 5 to 6 parts. It’s very important to add in only half of the first part of sugar, not all of it at the beginning.

3. 先下第一份砂糖的一半量、水和苦瓜放入鍋中，加熱至沸騰，表面以烤盤紙蓋住。 Put half of the first part of sugar, water and the blanched fruits in a pot, then bring to boiling. Cover the top with baking paper.

4. 以小火加熱至完全沸騰後，再加入第一份餘下的砂糖持續加熱，表面以烤盤紙蓋住。 Cook at low heat until fully boiling then add the remaining first part of sugar, continue boiling and cover the top with baking paper.

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5. 煮半小時後加入第二份的砂糖，持續加熱和加砂糖，但每次間隔時間逐次遞減 5 分鐘。 Add in the second part of sugar after cooking for half hour, continue to cook and add the rest part of the sugar. Gradually shorten the cooking time by 5 minutes each batch.

6. 加完砂糖後，苦瓜應為透光狀態，移除烤盤紙，持續加熱濃縮糖漿，煮 15-20 分鐘後關火，置於室溫 當中降溫。 When the fruits become transparent, take off the baking paper. Cook for 15-20 minutes to reduce the syrup. Off heat. Let it cool down at room temperature.

保存方式 : 取等量的糖漬用糖漿和葡萄糖漿加熱至葡萄糖漿融化即可，放入糖漬苦瓜，封住保存。 If you need to preserve it, take same amount of syrup and glucose syrup, mix and heat together.

Heat the syrup just until the glucose has been melted, then put in the candied fruit and seal the package. 若加熱至沸騰會使糖漿過硬，請確保葡萄糖漿融化即熄火。 You only need to melt the glucose syrup. If you let the syrup to boil up, then the syrup will get too hard. 若糖漿設定比為 1:1 時，先加入 1/4 的葡萄糖漿。若為更高糖度的糖漿，葡萄糖漿用量加倍。 Add 1/ 4 of the glucose syrup when the syrup is 1:1 in ratio. Double the amount if the ratio is higher in sugar.

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酸梅巧克力甘納許 Salted Dried Plum Chocolate Ganache ・ 266g 總統牌動物性鮮奶油 President UHT Cream 35.1% ・

5g

話梅 Salted Dried Plum

・ 10g 山梨糖醇 Sorbitol Powder

・ 266g 可可巴芮醇品迦納牛奶調溫巧克力 40.5% Cacao Barry Ghana Milk Couverture 40.5% ・ 133g 可可巴芮歐可亞黑巧克力 70% Cacao Barry Ocoa Dark Couverture Chocolate 70% ・ 62g 總統牌無鹽奶油條 President Butter Unsalted 82%

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1. 將鮮奶油和話梅混合浸泡數小時，加入山梨糖醇加 熱至沸騰。 Soak dried plums in cream for a few hours, mix in sorbitol powder. Bring to boil.

2. 將迦納牛奶巧克力 40.5% 和歐可亞黑巧克力 70% 裝在同個容器中。 Put milk and dark chocolate together.

3. 將熱鮮奶油倒入牛奶巧克力和黑巧克力中浸泡一會 兒，使用手持均質機均質乳化。 Pour hot cream into milk and dark chocolate and let them soak for a while, blend well with a hand blender.

4. 當溫度降至 35-40° C 時，加入奶油丁均質乳化，當 溫度降至 30-32° C 時即可使用。 Blend in diced butter when the mixture reaches 35- 40° C, use it when it’s down to 30-32° C.

披覆用巧克力 Coating Chocolate

・ 266g 可可巴芮歐可亞黑巧克力 70% Cacao Barry Ocoa Dark Couverture Chocolate 70%

1. 將糖漬果乾放於烤網上底下墊烤盤，放在保溫箱中 12 小時。 Put the candied fruit on a grid, with a baking tray under. Put it in a warm cabin for 12 hours.

2. 將糖漬果乾裁切成希望的大小形狀，放在烤架上以 150° C 烘烤至表面不黏手。置於巧克力房中 ( 溫度 15-18° C / 相對溼度 55- 65%) 降溫。 Cut the fruits to your desired shape and size. Line them on a grid and bake at 150° C in oven until the top surface isn’t sticky. Let it cool down at chocolate room in 15-18° C with relative humidity of 55- 65%.

3. 將糖漬果乾浸一半入甘納許中，裹覆越薄越好，置於巧克力房中 8-12 小時定型。 Dip each candied fruit half with ganache as thin as possible, let it set at chocolate room for 8-12 hours.

4. 將巧克力融化調溫，將 3/ 4 長度的糖漬果乾浸入，務必確保甘納許完全被巧克力裹覆，置於巧克力房中定型。 Melt and temper the coating chocolate, then dip the candied fruit with 3/ 4 coating chocolate and the ganache part must be fully coated. Let set at chocolate room.

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