McQUEEN. Issue 1. Lee Alexander McQueen photographed by Tim Walker.
thy kingdom come’
Chloe Newton
Kingdom. A country, state, or territory ruled by a king or queen: or the spiritual reign or authority of god. Interestingly Alexander McQueen named his first fragrance ‘Kingdom’, which was launched in 2003, (See Fig 1) under the beauty arm of Gucci group, YSL Beaute. Discontinued only one year after its launch, ‘One of the strangest creations I’ve ever sniffed. Very sultry’ ‘Kingdom’ was later reviewed to of had the potential to have been more successful for a niche market as a slightly heavier and more subdued scent. (Basenotes, 2014) In regards to the Semiotic Theory, (Rowland Barthe, 1985) from a visual communication perspective, an array of naked figures, emerge from a blacked out background, to which the figures intertwine together in order to create a circular cage like formation fulfilling
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the majority of the width of the advertisement. The flesh tones of the figures are grey and purple; merging into the darkness with intense highlights hitting areas of the body creating juxtaposition against the pitchblack background. An evident halo of light reflects off and around the figures making them look very spiritual, angelic or some could say ghost like. Potentially suggesting that the figures have a sense of spiritual or religious connotation in the way in which they are presented, floating in this circular formation. The figures have feminine physics’ that are erotically intertwined, with long brown hair, which is draped down the body and around the neck. There is often a great juxtaposition behind McQueen’s work when considering his concepts. fig 1.
M ALEXANDER MCQUEEN fig 1. ‘Kingdom’ fragrance advert
fig 3. This was displayed at ‘Savage Beauty’ a current exhibition presenting collections from the late Alexander McQueen it is revealed that McQueen’s work oscillates between life and death happiness and sadness, good and evil. When considering the visual denotation of this image the image could be read with reflections of religion, expanding on the theme of life and death. Positioning the figures in the circle positioning could refer to the theme of religion; the symbolism behind the circle has been read as the union between heaven and earth. (Symbolism, 2010) Considering the creative concept behind this advertisement, I believe that McQueen’s intentions were to provoke a questionable uncertainty around the scent, but with the intention to captivate the audience
I believe this campaign focuses entirely on the concept and art direction over physical attributes within the image. As a brand McQueen promotes to a particular consumer that would be inclined to take risks in regards to fashion, in which this advert would engage the consumers attention through the artistic concept and approach in order to sell this desired fragrance. Creating a desired uncertainty was the big idea behind this campaign. A brand that is not afraid to be controversial and take risks, I believe this thought provoking campaign is appropriate positioning for McQueen, when considering previous works such as the collection ‘Highland rape’ that was slated by media, also branding McQueen a ‘Hooligan’. Alexander McQueen is a brand that has never been afraid to take risks and get an audience debating!
SALVADOR DALI fig 3. In Voluptas Mors
DAVID MICHELANGELO fig 2. Sistine Chapel Ceiling
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Many art forms can be compared to the figurative aspects of this image. Dating back to the 14th century, the Renaissance period saw a change in all aspects of life and culture. ‘The last judgment’ on Sistine Chapel ceiling painted by David Michelangelo between 1508-12 shows a scene from the book of genesis of which ‘the creation of Adam’ is best known. Michelangelo fully demonstrates his skill in creating a huge variety of pose’s for the human figure, similar to that in this advertisement for McQueen. (Bradbury, 2000) The way in which the figures are captivated within a tight formation reminded me of areas within Michelangelo’s Sistine chapel ceiling. Entitling the fragrance ‘Kingdom’ is also a great retrospective in terms of religion; entitling a fragrance in comparing the authority of god, a figure that is described as omnipotence is an extremely powerful decision.
McQueen entitled the fragrance after a figure that is so powerful beyond description and a figure that is out of this world. A photograph entitled ‘In Voluptas Mors’ which translates to ‘Voluptuous Death’ is a piece from Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dali’ (Hodge, 1997- See Fig ) who precisely positioned curvaceous women in a desired composition. The way in which the women are objectified in order to create an image within a planned composition reveals a very captivating message from Dali when considering concepts within figurative displays. That of which also correspond with the concept behind the composition made to create the ‘Kingdom’ advertisement. Both artists convey a message to be read within the images rather than women being used as generic models; using conceptual ideas to sell.
Situated in the middle, at the bottom of the campaign is the fragrance bottle. It is created to look like a heart is made from ruby coloured glass encased in a stainless steel half shell; Patrick Veillet was the glass designer in collaboration with McQueen. The eye is drawn to the striking primary red coloured bottle; which suggests the theme of desire or even danger. Striking red is a interesting colour to McQueen to have chosen, particularly in this image against a dark background made up of grey tones, it positions this scent in an almost hierarchy, once again successfully creating desire from the consumer against the sultry positioned figures. YSL Beauté reinforces the romantic and literary themes of the perfume with an outer packaging of white paper and a red seal, reminiscent of a love letter. An inscription of the first line of the poem ‘Kingdom’, by US poet Jorie Graham, also featured on the packaging.
McQueen is a controversial brand that isn’t afraid to initiate never seen before daring campaigns and collections, from previous collections its understood that context and history is an important aspect of the inspiration behind work from McQueen. I believe this advert would have been really engaging and would appeal to an edgy and flamboyant consumer that would have shopped at Alexander McQueen at the time of release. Unfortunately, statistics show otherwise as the fragrance was discontinued after 2 years. Reviews reveal that the fragrance held very strong notes of resin so perhaps this particular fragrance would have appealed for a more niche market, but in terms of visual aesthetics I believe this campaign was like nothing I’ve ever seen on the fragrance market and really captivating.
BIBLIOGRAPHY Books: Bradbury, K. (2000) Essential Michelangelo. Dempsey Parr. Hodge, J. (1997) Salvador Dali. United Kingdom: Grange Books Ltd. Webpages: Symbol Meaning’ (2010). www.whats-your-sign.com. Available at: http://www.whats-your-sign.comcircle-symbol-meaning.html (Accessed: 19 March 2015). Noraed, Scenter, W. O., loveless, sherapop and 123, dark phoenix (2014) Kingdom by Alexander McQueen (2003) - Basenotes Fragrance Directory. Available at: http://www.basenotes.net/ID10210036. html (Accessed: 20 March 2015). Kingdom Alexander McQueen perfume - a fragrance for women (no date). www.fragrantica.com. Available at: http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Alexander-McQueen/Kingdom-1195.html (Accessed: 20 March 2015).
KINGDOM fig 4. Bottle Design
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Exhibitions: Savage Beauty. Alexander McQueen. 2015 Collections: Highland Rape. Alexander McQueen. Fall 1995.